Also baking soda works well, I use it to clean the oven and toaster oven glass. Dirty appliances always bother me. Can clean pots and pans with baking soda, brush your teeth, keep your pool water clear and chemical free, wash your clothes.
This was by far the most amazing episode I’ve ever seen!! Blessings to you both! You inspire me to let my light shine and stand confidently in who I am and exactly who God made me. Bless you!!
Glad it was helpful! Kind of a cool way to avoid starting from scratch in the morning, if you let it burn out you get heat for a few more hours but then you have nothing in the morning.
Nice video...I have been burning off and on for years and am running a new insets. Tips are good...didn't know about the cinder block wood rack or covering coals in ash
We have an old Country Flame. I use newspaper, water, & ash to clean our clear ceramic. Watt and ash to make a paste newspaper to scrub. Toss the newspaper in the fireplace to. Light the next fire. Obviously with some fresh dry paper as what you scrub with will be partially wet. Cleans the clear ceramic very nicely
Great video. I've got 2 Fireplaces in my new house I just purchased and been really looking into a Wood Fire Insert to be installed to get better value out of them to heat the home. These tips are very helpful.
Thanks! I have another video where I installed the fireplace insert myself, along with a few tricks to make it more efficient. Check it out if you're interested in doing it yourself. Cheers!
This ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxATHBlMJwipGgVWseuAFKvDQ_5R4_lywo unit was an easy install and turned out amazing. The dimensions were exact! I took a chance and built the wall prior to receiving the unit which arrived sooner than expected and it fit right in the space I constructed. The heat output is perfect for the space we needed and made the room exactly how we envisioned it to turn out. I am happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability. Thank you for the awesome product just in time for the holidays.
Thanks - greatly informative! When I lived in VT, I learned about this the hard way - as usual, use the right tools for the job. The blocks and 2x4s works very well.
Racks, location of the racks, and facing the sun are huge helpers. The kindling area is super helpful too, idk how people get by without a box just for smaller stuff. Thanks for the feedback!
Choking off the air produces creosote. But you have to do that to extend the burn. Remember to follow Osburn's suggestion and sweep out your flu every cord and a half. Creosote builds up and it needs to be removed for safety above all, and for a clear way to exhaust the fumes from the burning process. Also, I see you selected an Osburn stove. Excellent choice. My Osburn insert has been with me for over 24 years.
I burn about 1-1.5 cords a season so I just clean it out once a year. I just wish I could choke it a bit more, my install limits the movement of my air plate adjustment handle a bit.
I preheat my chimney using news paper so I have a better draft to start a new fire. Of course one needs to maintain the chimney so is free of much creosote. I have been burning wood all my life (70+ now). Have a large woodlot and cut all my own firewood. Until last year I split all by hand. Aquired a used hydraulic splitter in good shape and now use it most of the time. I cure my wood for a year after splitting. Have neve needed to moisture check it. Burn mostly oak, maple, black locust and some poplar.
That's awesome! I live in the woods but I have so many irons in the fire, it's just too much of a time sink for me. Paid $200 for a cord of wood last weekend, seasoned a year, 13% moisture.
I liked your comment. You're self sufficient and that's a good thing. Do you have a free standing stove or an insert. I want to switch to a free standing stove so that if the power goes out, I still have heat. An insert stops working once the electricity is off. There is no real radiant heat to speak of with inserts.
A moisture meter is a great tool but you need to use it properly. You need to split the wood open and test on one of the fresh split faces. They are also calibrated to work at room temperature. So your actual moisture content could easily be twice what you tested. Otherwise pretty good video. Another note once you have a good coal bed established pack that stove full. You will get much longer and more efficient burns by doing that. If you do that I would expect 8 hours out of that stove.
Right on, I did that before the season started and everything was under 20%, so now I don't even really check. Should have pointed out it's best on a fresh split tho! My biggest issue with packing it is it's a fairly small box and since I installed this late in the season I didn't cut my own firewood, so a lot of it fits at 45 degree angle which is not ideal. Hard to get a lot of piece in it at once at an angle.
No big deal just wanted to correct the moister meter useage and give you a pointer on loading. Hopefully next year your wood will fit better and your performance should improve allot.
@@ADDvanced if you packed the stove tightly it would be more controllable as well. But if you are getting 3 hours out of that little wood I would say it is not getting to much air at all
There's only so many BTUs in the wood; you can release them in a short or long period, depending on your air control. That said, the hotter your send the air up your chimney, the more heat you aren't extracting. I run my fan on MAX, pretty much 10 minutes after the fire starts. As soon as I can choke it all the way down, I do, to make the burn as long as possible. This is the most efficient way to do it, but if if your heat loss is so high (poor insulation, drafts etc) you might need to run it hotter to keep the house warm.
I like the video, very informative! I like the big glass window on your stove but I do would find it annoying to have to angle all of my wood like that!
It's a relatively small stove. So he has to angle the wood that way. His fireplace is small also so he didn't have much of a choice on the size stove. If he needed more heat then a free standing stove and running the flu up the chimney would be a better bet.
nice video.... we must think alike? ;0). I use the kindling splitter too... can't recommend it enough. I also welding gloves are great. and the drying racks are simple but effective. I use a bed of coals with a valley for air flow as well. thanks for sharing. I like your three glass panel stove. I have a fireplace insert and am looking to install a wood burning high efficiency stove...
Right on! At the end of hte day with all the labor I'm not totally sure wood heat is worth the money but man when you're cold it's a lot better than a 72 degree room to warm up.
Are you home all day when it’s burning or how many hours will you leave it unintended? Could you run it for a few days straight with 6-8 hours of not being home?
I have a wood burning (old) cast iron fireplace insert question: I have two almost pinhole size holes in the back top left and right of my insert, are those suppose to be there? I'm really new to being a fireplace owner.
A chord saw is a circular saw about 12-28 inches in diameter that are configured with a slightly moving table that allows a log section to be moved into the rotating saw. Old saw blades were primitively constructed. They were originally powered by a big l flat belt run off of the accessory pulley about 10 12 in diameter to the saw. Orher versions were powered off of the PTO at the back of the tractor. This version offered incredible torque. But either version would slice through a log in just s few seconds. Later versions were powered by a small engine possibly 7-6 hp. Didnt matter what kind of log. The massive torque would slice throigh them quickly. We used them to cut up huge cottonwood logs. You still need a chainsaw to cut the tree down and to section it into lengths that either a loader can lift to cut or 2-4;men can position onto the sawvto break it up into manageable pieces. Saw mill slabs are easy work and my 2 neighbors run them still.. Mine is broke down right now and needs to be rebuilt and updated. Their maintenance is nothing compared to a chain saw. With a chain saw you're always sharpening the chain, adding oil and sometimes replacing the chain and the bar. Plus they only cut for a short time and you have to put more 2 cycle gas oil in the gas tank.
I’m New to wood stoves, still shopping for my first one. This might be a dumb question, but can you more quickly dry out wood by laying it near your stove? I’m asking about wood that’s over the preferred 20% moisture.
First question would be... Is the wood green or is it wet from getting wet with rain. A big difference. I've got wood that is cured. but it gets wet being outside. I do bring it in to dry by the burner. It seems to work for me. But if it's green wood that hasn't been properly cured then the answer would be no, you can't dry it fast enough. A well cured hardwood needs a good year to a year and a half to cure for burning.
I got a home last year that has an insert which I don't know why people would have. It is flush with the wall. I see no reason for inserts, basically over 50% to 80% is walled up. I'm now in the process of removing the corner wall so I can have free standing Blaze King Princess so all 6 sides of the stove is radiating into the air. An insert without blowers are useless, with no electricity they don't give very much heat. They are good for decoration for occasional pretty fires to view.
Im interested in a wood stove insert but im worried that it will get too hot in my living room and make it almost unusable. Do u find that to be the case when trying to heat ur house?
You mentioned you get a 3-4 hr burn per set. I'm getting 1-2 hrs on a set doing EXACTLY your set up and prep. (wood = mainly ash mixed with maple and poplar) Wood is dry, keeping temp around 480 C (900F), adjusting choke properly etc etc. Any suggestions as to why I cannot get a 3-4 hr burn?
Your pipe thermometer temperature is calculated on the dial for the surface temperature of single wall pipe. It is not a stove thermometer. This reads about 1/2 the actual internal flue gas temperature when placed on the pipe surface, which cools as it rises in chimney, falling to about what the temperature shown on the dial reads at the top. This gives an indication of creosote formation below 250*f at the top. It has nothing to do with stove or firebox temperature and is not an indication of flue gas temp. Flue temp is what you are concerned with to prevent creosote. With an air chamber removing convection heat, this is not an indication of firebox or flue gas temperature. Insulating your flue liner is the way to go about keeping it clean and getting the best performance from the Insert. It is required by code when the chimney is not built to code. If the chimney is in contact with combustible framing material, the insulation is required. 1 inch air space is required on an exterior chimney, 2 inches interior.
The only problem with having a fire going is I would sit and watch it for hours. I enjoyed both fire videos. Can I use shou sugi ban technique to keep my car from rusting? Ha ha.
Mix your ash with water to make a paste to clean the glass. It saves you money and does a great job
Also baking soda works well, I use it to clean the oven and toaster oven glass. Dirty appliances always bother me. Can clean pots and pans with baking soda, brush your teeth, keep your pool water clear and chemical free, wash your clothes.
This was by far the most amazing episode I’ve ever seen!! Blessings to you both! You inspire me to let my light shine and stand confidently in who I am and exactly who God made me. Bless you!!
Definitely going to use that cinderblock and 2x4 rack
Banking coals was new to me! Great tips!! Thanks for sharing!!
Glad it was helpful! Kind of a cool way to avoid starting from scratch in the morning, if you let it burn out you get heat for a few more hours but then you have nothing in the morning.
Nice video...I have been burning off and on for years and am running a new insets. Tips are good...didn't know about the cinder block wood rack or covering coals in ash
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
We have an old Country Flame. I use newspaper, water, & ash to clean our clear ceramic. Watt and ash to make a paste newspaper to scrub. Toss the newspaper in the fireplace to. Light the next fire. Obviously with some fresh dry paper as what you scrub with will be partially wet. Cleans the clear ceramic very nicely
Yeah, sounds like it’d work mint
Just the kind of video I was looking for. Very informative, thank you.
Thanks! Check out the other videos if you want to learn porsche/snowmobile/van/trailer/schoolbus/honda stuff
Great video, helped a lot,,I’m new to this wood burning stove ,,thanks,,,
Great video. I've got 2 Fireplaces in my new house I just purchased and been really looking into a Wood Fire Insert to be installed to get better value out of them to heat the home. These tips are very helpful.
Thanks! I have another video where I installed the fireplace insert myself, along with a few tricks to make it more efficient. Check it out if you're interested in doing it yourself. Cheers!
This ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxATHBlMJwipGgVWseuAFKvDQ_5R4_lywo unit was an easy install and turned out amazing. The dimensions were exact! I took a chance and built the wall prior to receiving the unit which arrived sooner than expected and it fit right in the space I constructed. The heat output is perfect for the space we needed and made the room exactly how we envisioned it to turn out. I am happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability. Thank you for the awesome product just in time for the holidays.
Thanks - greatly informative! When I lived in VT, I learned about this the hard way - as usual, use the right tools for the job. The blocks and 2x4s works very well.
Racks, location of the racks, and facing the sun are huge helpers. The kindling area is super helpful too, idk how people get by without a box just for smaller stuff. Thanks for the feedback!
@@ADDvanced I agree - the organization is key, and the benefit is dry wood!
Choking off the air produces creosote. But you have to do that to extend the burn. Remember to follow Osburn's suggestion and sweep out your flu every cord and a half. Creosote builds up and it needs to be removed for safety above all, and for a clear way to exhaust the fumes from the burning process.
Also, I see you selected an Osburn stove. Excellent choice. My Osburn insert has been with me for over 24 years.
I burn about 1-1.5 cords a season so I just clean it out once a year. I just wish I could choke it a bit more, my install limits the movement of my air plate adjustment handle a bit.
Wow. That banking coals trick is awesome. Thx
I preheat my chimney using news paper so I have a better draft to start a new fire. Of course one needs to maintain the chimney so is free of much creosote.
I have been burning wood all my life (70+ now). Have a large woodlot and cut all my own firewood. Until last year I split all by hand. Aquired a used hydraulic splitter in good shape and now use it most of the time.
I cure my wood for a year after splitting. Have neve needed to moisture check it. Burn mostly oak, maple, black locust and some poplar.
That's awesome! I live in the woods but I have so many irons in the fire, it's just too much of a time sink for me. Paid $200 for a cord of wood last weekend, seasoned a year, 13% moisture.
I liked your comment. You're self sufficient and that's a good thing. Do you have a free standing stove or an insert. I want to switch to a free standing stove so that if the power goes out, I still have heat. An insert stops working once the electricity is off. There is no real radiant heat to speak of with inserts.
@@beebob1279
The insert requires no power Bob. Not sure why you think that. We used ours to heat and cook when the power is out. Good luck.
@@stanlee399 Your insert is different than any other I've seen. What model is it and I'll check it out.
I use the white ash on a damp paper towel to clean the glass and save on cleaner. A second, clean piece of paper towel will then get it squeaky clean.
I'll try that!
Well done video. I will be watching more of your videos.
Subbed!👍
Thanks for the sub!
Great video, Thank you much !!!
You’re welcome. Just started the first fire of the season about 15 minutes ago lol
Thank You Sir!!
Most welcome!
I learned something!!
Thanks for the comment! Sharing information is why I do all this.
I really need one of these
Nice video. Very useful. Keep the Porsche videos coming please
Heh. I'll have one up tomorrow :)
A moisture meter is a great tool but you need to use it properly. You need to split the wood open and test on one of the fresh split faces. They are also calibrated to work at room temperature. So your actual moisture content could easily be twice what you tested. Otherwise pretty good video.
Another note once you have a good coal bed established pack that stove full. You will get much longer and more efficient burns by doing that. If you do that I would expect 8 hours out of that stove.
Right on, I did that before the season started and everything was under 20%, so now I don't even really check. Should have pointed out it's best on a fresh split tho! My biggest issue with packing it is it's a fairly small box and since I installed this late in the season I didn't cut my own firewood, so a lot of it fits at 45 degree angle which is not ideal. Hard to get a lot of piece in it at once at an angle.
No big deal just wanted to correct the moister meter useage and give you a pointer on loading. Hopefully next year your wood will fit better and your performance should improve allot.
@@benholler1389 I also want to modify the inlet on the stove, I still think it gets too much air. Can't choke it off enough to choke it out.
@@ADDvanced if you packed the stove tightly it would be more controllable as well. But if you are getting 3 hours out of that little wood I would say it is not getting to much air at all
Where do you buy the insert you have? Looks great!
Check out my install video
Great video. Im also new to the world of inserts. Once you get it to the right temperature do you close the air vent all the way??
I have the lopi smallest insert and I feel when I choke the air out the temperature in my house drops unlike when I have it all the way open
There's only so many BTUs in the wood; you can release them in a short or long period, depending on your air control. That said, the hotter your send the air up your chimney, the more heat you aren't extracting. I run my fan on MAX, pretty much 10 minutes after the fire starts. As soon as I can choke it all the way down, I do, to make the burn as long as possible. This is the most efficient way to do it, but if if your heat loss is so high (poor insulation, drafts etc) you might need to run it hotter to keep the house warm.
Where can i get a glass door like you have?
thanks
I like the video, very informative! I like the big glass window on your stove but I do would find it annoying to have to angle all of my wood like that!
The fireplace opening dictated how large of a stove you can install.
It's a relatively small stove. So he has to angle the wood that way. His fireplace is small also so he didn't have much of a choice on the size stove. If he needed more heat then a free standing stove and running the flu up the chimney would be a better bet.
nice video.... we must think alike? ;0). I use the kindling splitter too... can't recommend it enough. I also welding gloves are great. and the drying racks are simple but effective. I use a bed of coals with a valley for air flow as well. thanks for sharing. I like your three glass panel stove. I have a fireplace insert and am looking to install a wood burning high efficiency stove...
Right on! At the end of hte day with all the labor I'm not totally sure wood heat is worth the money but man when you're cold it's a lot better than a 72 degree room to warm up.
Thanks so much, I learned a lot!
Rad! Glad to help! Building a super weird trailer van camper thing for remote work now, check it out.
Good tips thanks! Ok but real talk, tell me about that URS6 Avant 🥰
Owned it since 2009, did RS2 conversion a few years ago, don't drive it much, been in storage. Awesome car!
@@ADDvanced Nice! I've had one for a few years and most of my friends have come from that community. Love the sound of those things!
Are you home all day when it’s burning or how many hours will you leave it unintended?
Could you run it for a few days straight with 6-8 hours of not being home?
I'm home all day, I installed this because of the pandemic and work from home. This has a small firebox so I have to refill it every 2-3 hours.
I have a wood burning (old) cast iron fireplace insert question: I have two almost pinhole size holes in the back top left and right of my insert, are those suppose to be there? I'm really new to being a fireplace owner.
Probably not, but join www.hearth.com and post pics
Cord saws are so much better than chain saws for maintenance and the fuel problems associated with chain saws.
What do you mean by cord saw?
A chord saw is a circular saw about 12-28 inches in diameter that are configured with a slightly moving table that allows a log section to be moved into the rotating saw. Old saw blades were primitively constructed. They were originally powered by a big l flat belt run off of the accessory pulley about 10 12 in diameter to the saw. Orher versions were powered off of the PTO at the back of the tractor. This version offered incredible torque. But either version would slice through a log in just s few seconds. Later versions were powered by a small engine possibly 7-6 hp. Didnt matter what kind of log. The massive torque would slice throigh them quickly. We used them to cut up huge cottonwood logs. You still need a chainsaw to cut the tree down and to section it into lengths that either a loader can lift to cut or 2-4;men can position onto the sawvto break it up into manageable pieces. Saw mill slabs are easy work and my 2 neighbors run them still.. Mine is broke down right now and needs to be rebuilt and updated. Their maintenance is nothing compared to a chain saw. With a chain saw you're always sharpening the chain, adding oil and sometimes replacing the chain and the bar. Plus they only cut for a short time and you have to put more 2 cycle gas oil in the gas tank.
I’m New to wood stoves, still shopping for my first one. This might be a dumb question, but can you more quickly dry out wood by laying it near your stove? I’m asking about wood that’s over the preferred 20% moisture.
Yes, but I think it would take a long time.
First question would be... Is the wood green or is it wet from getting wet with rain. A big difference. I've got wood that is cured. but it gets wet being outside. I do bring it in to dry by the burner. It seems to work for me.
But if it's green wood that hasn't been properly cured then the answer would be no, you can't dry it fast enough.
A well cured hardwood needs a good year to a year and a half to cure for burning.
100%
I got a home last year that has an insert which I don't know why people would have. It is flush with the wall. I see no reason for inserts, basically over 50% to 80% is walled up. I'm now in the process of removing the corner wall so I can have free standing Blaze King Princess so all 6 sides of the stove is radiating into the air. An insert without blowers are useless, with no electricity they don't give very much heat. They are good for decoration for occasional pretty fires to view.
They're still more efficient than an open fireplace as they won't suck up all the heat in the room and shoot it outside
Im interested in a wood stove insert but im worried that it will get too hot in my living room and make it almost unusable. Do u find that to be the case when trying to heat ur house?
No. Use a box fan to move the heat around if you want. Ceiling fans also help.
You mentioned you get a 3-4 hr burn per set. I'm getting 1-2 hrs on a set doing EXACTLY your set up and prep. (wood = mainly ash mixed with maple and poplar)
Wood is dry, keeping temp around 480 C (900F), adjusting choke properly etc etc. Any suggestions as to why I cannot get a 3-4 hr burn?
Try bigger pieces and choke it before it even starts going well. Creates more creosote but it’ll take longer to get going
Can I Store My wood In My Garage!?
greetings from Ontario Canada!!
I mean sure but it won’t dry out very fast and you might bring bugs and pests into your house
Your pipe thermometer temperature is calculated on the dial for the surface temperature of single wall pipe. It is not a stove thermometer. This reads about 1/2 the actual internal flue gas temperature when placed on the pipe surface, which cools as it rises in chimney, falling to about what the temperature shown on the dial reads at the top. This gives an indication of creosote formation below 250*f at the top. It has nothing to do with stove or firebox temperature and is not an indication of flue gas temp. Flue temp is what you are concerned with to prevent creosote. With an air chamber removing convection heat, this is not an indication of firebox or flue gas temperature. Insulating your flue liner is the way to go about keeping it clean and getting the best performance from the Insert. It is required by code when the chimney is not built to code. If the chimney is in contact with combustible framing material, the insulation is required. 1 inch air space is required on an exterior chimney, 2 inches interior.
Checked the manual and they don't want the cooktop getting over 650, so I figured this would be an okay place to put it, near the cooktop.
What you call a splitting maul we call a Go Devil
How about bugs
Lol she did say that
I love hearing people pronounce it "kend-uh-ling" 😆
I blame amazon kindles :P
The only problem with having a fire going is I would sit and watch it for hours. I enjoyed both fire videos.
Can I use shou sugi ban technique to keep my car from rusting? Ha ha.
Doubtful, lol. But since you ask, I use woolswax or boshield T9 every fall.
IM like huge wood fireplace inserts to make a huge hot long burn fire
You missing a dampener or you didn’t explain how to use
By not having one or using it a big part of you heat is going up your chimney
That does not look like a maul to me. It looks like a axe.
When you said, you need a moisture meter, there 10 bucks!! I was like this must be before the nice bidenflation
$10.99
amzn.to/3kQApg4
She would date the female version of herself....red flag there.
u look like paul mcCartney
Coo coo ca choo
Don’t listen to this guy
what'd I get wrong? This was my first year burning. Always happy to learn more! Somehow I don't think you'll respond.
So commercial video ! Only products placement, disliked it
I'm not sponsored man, just sharing what I'm using after doing a fair amount of research Maybe you should make a better one.