This is the best CV shaft tool ever I made it and I'm telling you I had a truck I was trying to get the CV shaft out of I was working on it for hours literally ready to punch the doors and windows I made this tool I literally hit it twice with a hammer and it came out and since then I've used it about 10 times works every time the best tool ever genius idea man good luck and thank you for your Advice
I made one of these and used it on my car yesterday and it totally worked!! The problem with other methods and tools are that they don't anticipate obstructions in the way of their operation. With this tool, it can be disassembled, metal cup be placed around the cv axle then the metal rods can be connected back and you can begin to use. And problem of using hammer and pry bar method is that you don't get much leverage when you have jacked up your car and you are working under the car. With modern cars being very tightly packaged, I highly recommend this method and tool!
Great idea, great solution. I am one of those who saves wood ends, such as from 2x4s, because they can come in handy, especially for car repairs, where a couple of good whacks are needed to drive in or out pieces that would otherwise be damaged with direct hammer blows. You are also correct, that one CV axle is bound to be more difficult to access for removal.
I could not get the electrical box behind the cv joint against my Kubota RTV X900 so I combined your bar stock and block idea I used. I welded it to a 3” muffler clamp like another UA-camr suggested, two taps and it popped right out.
Rob,being a back yard mechanic, I’ve often run into this very frustrating job until I ran across your video. It’s the neatest tool I have and these jobs are a breeze now. Your the best,keep it up,Lester from Canada
I made one of these and now my axles are successfully out and my project can continue. I had to use a Dremel for most of the metal cutting, doing this with a hack saw would have been pretty grueling. I made mine four foot long instead of three and the extra length was helpful for the passenger side axle of my 98 corolla. Thanks for the video!
Great job showing and telling,about how you made that to take the shaft out. I am fixing to do my 2008 dodge 4x4 and so thanks for showing and telling. So wish me luck and well see ya next time see ya bye.
Thanks Rob. I am not a mechanic but I can sometimes "monkey see money do." Your tool worked for me (2 taps) and I did not mangle my existing axle like I am afraid the vice grip method might do. Now I can get a pro to rebuild my oem axle. Only mistake I made was buying aluminum stock instead of the metal rods.
This worked! Except the electrical outlet method did not. I think it would have except I cut it too wide and it didn't grab well and just slipped off. The bars and wood block were still good though so I just made another version. I found a piece of sheet metal cut to about 4"x10" and drilled a 1.25" hole in the center (slightly larger though) with a hole saw. then I cut a piece of wood 3.5" wide to use as a bending form and bent it around that for a nice sharp 90° bend. I used tin snips to cut from one side to the edges of the hole I drilled to make a slot. I drilled a single 1/4-20 hole in each ear so it can move around but hold plenty strong. Being thin it slid into the gap very easily (the electrical box was a little bit too thick). I didn't bother with the second block of wood and just banged on the one piece. What's the worst that can happen? break the wood? Just cut another piece. But I didn't and it came out with just a few bangs. The other problem with using an electrical box is all the cutout holes that make it weak. The thin sheet metal was fine because it sort of nestled around the axle and it didn't matter that it bent because it held in the places that need holding.
Possible solution, thanks for the idea. However, don't forget that Autozone / Oreilly's etc will loan a CV removal tool. I found on ATV/UTV that the free loaner - with the free loaner of "FWD Axle Puller" - works pretty well. You need that FWD axle puller attachment as it slips in behind just like your cut out box you made.
I tried one of the “box tool pullers” for my 2012 Honda pilot. The tool didn’t have the proper clearance. I like this idea a lot. Ingenuity, good to see people are still figuring out how to get difficult jobs done. 👍👍
Half the times they dont fit behind the cv part and when they do the hammer part is always right where the strut is. It's like they puposely made it to mash your hands.
instead of the steel flats I used some random tubing from the backyard. It worked, although it's important to make sure you don't cut too much material off the electrical box, or it will slide off when you attempt to hammer the tool
Excellent idea! Wow I'm impressed. That's what I love about UA-cam. Where else could I learn something like this? Thank you for the great idea but, more importantly, thank you for sharing!
Wow! I could have used this last week when my friend spent more than 5 hours trying to pry it out from my 2011 Honda Odyssey. (The passenger side). The driver's side was easy.
If you have a spline with a circlip involved the trick is to get the circlip opening in the 12 o'clock position. What I have found is turning an 1/8 of a turn at a time and giving a tug or pry and usually it releses fairly easy. Kudos on your custom tool invention - nice problem solving skills!
I have been doing this clock dial rotate thing and it is not working. It seems like no one makes a enough of a point about it coming out from the differential in a "flat" up and down manner-in other words, not pinch points from working on it from one side. I sense my axle wants to come out, but I I am not finding that magic circlip opening or I dont have the right amount of leverage underneath the car because I don't have a lift. Eric the car guy on his video from 13 years ago made it look so easy. I can't count the amount of videos, including this one, that don't show the actual separation of axle from the differential. Still, I went out and bought these metal bars and electrical box because it seems sound with regards to the equal force on all sides of the CV joint.
@@sl5311 Sorry just now saw this - hope you managed to get it unstuck. Sometimes you have to give it a tap with a hammer to get that circlip to drop and not have it loaded or binded up - in other words push the joint back in - otherwise the circlip may stay stuck and not drop.
Hello sir im in the process of changing the left an right axles on a ford this video is great im going to get the materials to make this tool thank you so much...i just checked amazon an they want $70 for a axle pulling tool keep up the good work...
My buddy said I would need the right tools, but he didn't mention this. Fortunately, I have all the parts to make this. The axels are on the way. Thank you!
Neatest Tool I have seen in a long time. Reminds me of something my Dad conjured up back in the 70's to get some Ball Joints pressed out & back in using Threaded Rod & Very Large Deep Well sockets that he had access to. This goes down as a DIY Super Tool.
@@robthefixitguy7185 It did help me. I used the electrical box idea, but used metal pipe hanger straps on both sides as this was much cheaper than the steel you used (prices have gone up a lot)
I like this idea because even if you can get a prybar in between axle and diff- you risk cracking / marring the differential while trying to lever the axle out. Your little tool means you're only hammering out the part you want to replace anyway. Next stop- Home Depot :) thanks for posting this.
You're brilliant. Cost me 15 bucks in minnesota to build, last minute and i built it a little bulkier than you did i'm sure i could have done it for less, but thank you for the Great idea!!
Hi Brad, same result I had. I think the key is the tool allows you to pull it straight out rather than prying it out at an angle. Using a hammer helps too!
Мне понравилась конструкция. Спасибо. Я пользуюсь тонким тросиком (3мм) с двумя петлями. Одна петля продевается за корпусом трипода, во вторую петлю вставляется кувалда вес 3 кг. Длина троса выбирается так чтобы удобно было размахнуться рядом с колесом. Резкое движение грузом по оси трипода и он у вас на блюдечке!
The tool is strong enough. I have used it on several cars and it has not broken. The metal box will wrap itself around the cv axle housing which actually helps removal. Try it before assuming it doesn't work.
You could reduce effort of cutting by using a ceiling "pancake" box,(Hubbell-Raco 295) which is tound and 1" deep. It has no side knockouts or holes to get in the way, and is just as thick and strong.
Remember kids, when pulling the axle on many Subaru's, don't forget the roll pin and when installing new unit, make sure you get the splines indexed right so you can put the roll pin back in.
Great ingenuity. I'm about to do this job on my S-10. Hopefully I won't need this tool but if I do, I now no how to build one easily and cheaply. Thanks.
I already have a slide hammer kit but it doesn’t come with cv forks which is dumb af. I’m thinking there has to be a way to get some thin durable strapping long enough to slit a hole in the middle fitnitnaround two side of the axle and slide it in the crack between the transmission or t case and cv housing then with the two end look then around and put a hole in them then put the slide hammer in the two holes and clamp both sides with some washers and nuts then pull as usual? But is standard strapping thin enough to fit? They should make a master set of those slide hammer fork puller attachments. They’re even pricey on Amazon like $15-25 each.
Price update: Electrical box 7.98 36x3/4x1/8 11.93 x 2 = $34.47 with tax. The rest I have in the garage.Just for grins I went to an inflation calculator and it works the other way around and it gave me 17.87 back in 1997. That's still nearly double your claim. There are cheaper boxes but not the type that would work well for this job. Most of the boxes are plastic nowadays. And a simple steel bar for nearly $12! wtf I think they are just gouging us. What doesn't make sense is how usually the raw materials things tend to be more expensive than the manufactured parts. I can think of a lot of things for $12 that require work and materials to produce that would seem to be more expensive. A burger King whopper meal is about that much and that requires all sorts of handling and preparation. A steel bar does not.
If you turn the CV axle over to different parts of its rotation you'll eventually find the point where the internal retainer ring at the end of the shaft is not holding it in place and you can just pull it out easily with a pry bar like in almost all other videos on how to remove a cv axle. Probably the reason shocking it with this puller works is that it's jiggling the retainer ring enough to get it out, but you can get the same effect just by turning the shaft to the right angle.
Hi Matt, the problem with some vehicles, like mine, is that there is no access on one side for a pry bar. Therefore I needed a way to pull the cv axle out. Thanks for your comment.
I will be building this tool in the near future. All the pieces can be bought easily, and I can transport it to salvage yards to remove front drive axles which are hard to access the axles because the cars sit on the ground in most cases. But what about the ceiling electrical box? What is the dimensions of the box? The stock front drive axle body on many GM cars are not perfectly round, they have the 3 structured type body that may hinder the attachment of the electrical box to it when removing. Is there a model number you can provide, or anyone else that can say which box they bought and where they bought it?
Or someday you could spend $50,000-$60,000, a few days in a hospital, six weeks or so in physical therapy and about a year to fully recover and you have got new knees.
I used contruction type (with 2 straps each leg) knee pads for years. One day my friend showed up wit two vollyball knee pads ($10) Fully elastic,easy to pull on and so comfortable! Wow!
Most Toyota s are stuck after 160 thousand miles, must cut boot off first then make tool vise grip 3 foot threaded rod welded to part that turns ,5 lb sledge head, nut and washer.
I doubt that conduit box will last very long. Some might pop easily but probably 50% of them would put up more of a fight than that contraption could muster. Great diy hack though if your in a pinch.
Hi Steve, thanks for your comment. The issue is sometimes there is not enough space to get a pry bar in. Purchasing a specialty tool costs $150. I found this tool makes it really easy to remove the cv axle regardless of space limits.
Hi Kris, on my vehicle there is no access from below, subframe is in the way. Only method that works is a puller, but I didn't want to pay $150 for one.
True, you can borrow store tools, but often the tools are out when you need them. That is why I made my own. I can use it anytime I want or lend it to friends and neighbours.
@@luisarriaza6807 A trip to the hardware store or a trip to the parts store. Same difference Plus this way it can be made to fit situations when a rental tool doesn't since sometimes they are too general and don't work out, and next time you don't have to drive anywhere.
or go to harbor freight to get a pry that would usually be advertised as a ball joint remover. I had an axle that I could no get out with normal angled pry bar, but this dual fork puppy janked it out by just inserting it under and a good two taps on the handle with a hammer.
Slide hammer is only viable if you are replacing the axle. My current need is to remove a good cv axle to replace an alternator. I was pondering a similar solution, but the outlet box is a good idea.
This is the best CV shaft tool ever I made it and I'm telling you I had a truck I was trying to get the CV shaft out of I was working on it for hours literally ready to punch the doors and windows I made this tool I literally hit it twice with a hammer and it came out and since then I've used it about 10 times works every time the best tool ever genius idea man good luck and thank you for your Advice
I made one of these and used it on my car yesterday and it totally worked!!
The problem with other methods and tools are that they don't anticipate obstructions in the way of their operation.
With this tool, it can be disassembled, metal cup be placed around the cv axle then the metal rods can be connected back and you can begin to use.
And problem of using hammer and pry bar method is that you don't get much leverage when you have jacked up your car and you are working under the car.
With modern cars being very tightly packaged, I highly recommend this method and tool!
Thanks for your feedback. Couldn't agree more with you. That's exactly why I built it.
Are they in the market? I would buy 1. But instead of a 2x4 block, I use a hoses mouth guard as the handle
Great idea, great solution. I am one of those who saves wood ends, such as from 2x4s, because they can come in handy, especially for car repairs, where a couple of good whacks are needed to drive in or out pieces that would otherwise be damaged with direct hammer blows. You are also correct, that one CV axle is bound to be more difficult to access for removal.
Thanks for your comments. Glad my video helped you out.
I could not get the electrical box behind the cv joint against my Kubota RTV X900 so I combined your bar stock and block idea I used. I welded it to a 3” muffler clamp like another UA-camr suggested, two taps and it popped right out.
Rob,being a back yard mechanic, I’ve often run into this very frustrating job until I ran across your video. It’s the neatest tool I have and these jobs are a breeze now. Your the best,keep it up,Lester from Canada
Thanks Lester, I appreciate your feedback. The ability to pull straight out with a lot of leverage makes a huge difference.
I made one of these and now my axles are successfully out and my project can continue. I had to use a Dremel for most of the metal cutting, doing this with a hack saw would have been pretty grueling. I made mine four foot long instead of three and the extra length was helpful for the passenger side axle of my 98 corolla. Thanks for the video!
Hi Erza, I think the easiest way to cut the electrical box is a grinder with a cutting wheel. Thanks for your feedback.
I'm stuck with a low strength rotary tool. Hoping to do it in less than 4 hours
Thanks Very Much, I had not started this project because I was dreading the removal process. So this will come very handy. Much appreciated.
Thanks Rob, I just made this today for my 04 Deville. Once i got the junction box cut to where I needed it, it was a piece of cake.
Much appreciation!
You are welcome Louie. Glad it worked for you.
Works like a charm!! Be sure to use an octagon electric box, fits better than a square one. Great idea! Thanks
Oct 2024, i did mine. Thanks to this guy.
Great job showing and telling,about how you made that to take the shaft out. I am fixing to do my 2008 dodge 4x4 and so thanks for showing and telling. So wish me luck and well see ya next time see ya bye.
these are the true gems of youtube
Thanks Rob. I am not a mechanic but I can sometimes "monkey see money do." Your tool worked for me (2 taps) and I did not mangle my existing axle like I am afraid the vice grip method might do. Now I can get a pro to rebuild my oem axle. Only mistake I made was buying aluminum stock instead of the metal rods.
Thanks Rob. Helped me get my axle out. Great idea. Works great after less than 10 hit with my 4 lbs mullet. God bless you.
Thanks for your feedback. Glad it helped you.
That's great tool , I did it and used it on my BMW x5 worked like a pro
Thanks for your feedback.
This worked! Except the electrical outlet method did not. I think it would have except I cut it too wide and it didn't grab well and just slipped off. The bars and wood block were still good though so I just made another version. I found a piece of sheet metal cut to about 4"x10" and drilled a 1.25" hole in the center (slightly larger though) with a hole saw. then I cut a piece of wood 3.5" wide to use as a bending form and bent it around that for a nice sharp 90° bend. I used tin snips to cut from one side to the edges of the hole I drilled to make a slot. I drilled a single 1/4-20 hole in each ear so it can move around but hold plenty strong. Being thin it slid into the gap very easily (the electrical box was a little bit too thick). I didn't bother with the second block of wood and just banged on the one piece. What's the worst that can happen? break the wood? Just cut another piece. But I didn't and it came out with just a few bangs. The other problem with using an electrical box is all the cutout holes that make it weak. The thin sheet metal was fine because it sort of nestled around the axle and it didn't matter that it bent because it held in the places that need holding.
Possible solution, thanks for the idea. However, don't forget that Autozone / Oreilly's etc will loan a CV removal tool. I found on ATV/UTV that the free loaner - with the free loaner of "FWD Axle Puller" - works pretty well. You need that FWD axle puller attachment as it slips in behind just like your cut out box you made.
But driving back and forth costs time and money
I tried those tools from auto parts stores.
But they ALWAYS failed due to not having proper clearance.
Unless they don't fit. Which is the case with half the people trying to use them
I tried one of the “box tool pullers” for my 2012 Honda pilot. The tool didn’t have the proper clearance. I like this idea a lot. Ingenuity, good to see people are still figuring out how to get difficult jobs done. 👍👍
Half the times they dont fit behind the cv part and when they do the hammer part is always right where the strut is. It's like they puposely made it to mash your hands.
Genius idea, thanks for sharing, you saved me money I don’t have to spend on expensive tools.
Tools are great, but you don't always need expensive ones.
instead of the steel flats I used some random tubing from the backyard. It worked, although it's important to make sure you don't cut too much material off the electrical box, or it will slide off when you attempt to hammer the tool
Excellent idea! Wow I'm impressed. That's what I love about UA-cam. Where else could I learn something like this?
Thank you for the great idea but, more importantly, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for your comment. Hope it helps you out!
Man my front left cv axle was a pain, theres no room to pry it out. I made one of these and it pulled it right out
Wow! I could have used this last week when my friend spent more than 5 hours trying to pry it out from my 2011 Honda Odyssey. (The passenger side). The driver's side was easy.
I'm here for the same reason. 🤷♂️
Built and used this awesome tool today and it worked as predicted by Rob - inexpensive and effective!
Thanks for your feedback. Glad it worked as advertised!
Wonderful tip. Thanks for posting this. I need to do my 2005 Toyota Sienna cv axle. I will probably make this if I can't pry it out.
Thank you for your wonderful idea, simple and efficient. Took my brother no more then 5 seconds to get It out.
Fantastic!
If you have a spline with a circlip involved the trick is to get the circlip opening in the 12 o'clock position. What I have found is turning an 1/8 of a turn at a time and giving a tug or pry and usually it releses fairly easy. Kudos on your custom tool invention - nice problem solving skills!
I have been doing this clock dial rotate thing and it is not working. It seems like no one makes a enough of a point about it coming out from the differential in a "flat" up and down manner-in other words, not pinch points from working on it from one side. I sense my axle wants to come out, but I I am not finding that magic circlip opening or I dont have the right amount of leverage underneath the car because I don't have a lift. Eric the car guy on his video from 13 years ago made it look so easy. I can't count the amount of videos, including this one, that don't show the actual separation of axle from the differential. Still, I went out and bought these metal bars and electrical box because it seems sound with regards to the equal force on all sides of the CV joint.
@@sl5311 Sorry just now saw this - hope you managed to get it unstuck. Sometimes you have to give it a tap with a hammer to get that circlip to drop and not have it loaded or binded up - in other words push the joint back in - otherwise the circlip may stay stuck and not drop.
u type exhuast clamp. clamp it over the inner stub shaft of the axle and use a pry bar.. works everytime
What do you use to clamp it down?
@@RCsFinest a “u” shaped exhaust clamp
Hello sir im in the process of changing the left an right axles on a ford this video is great im going to get the materials to make this tool thank you so much...i just checked amazon an they want $70 for a axle pulling tool keep up the good work...
Thank you very much! This was VERY HELPFUL! I don't want to be frustrated trying to get mine out.
Great idea. I have an 09 ford that’s been through several rust creating winters. I may need this next week. Two thumbs up!
Thank you, Amazing DIY hack, this is going to save me so much time, and money. Hats off sir.
My buddy said I would need the right tools, but he didn't mention this. Fortunately, I have all the parts to make this. The axels are on the way. Thank you!
Neatest Tool I have seen in a long time. Reminds me of something my Dad conjured up back in the 70's to get some Ball Joints pressed out & back in using Threaded Rod & Very Large Deep Well sockets that he had access to. This goes down as a DIY Super Tool.
Interesting approach, would never have thought of cutting up a junction box, will give it a go. Thanks.
Let me know how it works out.
@@robthefixitguy7185 It did help me. I used the electrical box idea, but used metal pipe hanger straps on both sides as this was much cheaper than the steel you used (prices have gone up a lot)
I like this idea because even if you can get a prybar in between axle and diff- you risk cracking / marring the differential while trying to lever the axle out. Your little tool means you're only hammering out the part you want to replace anyway. Next stop- Home Depot :) thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the tip like your I was trying to figure out how to make a tool to pull my axle out. You gave me the perfect idea
Happy to help!
You're brilliant. Cost me 15 bucks in minnesota to build, last minute and i built it a little bulkier than you did i'm sure i could have done it for less, but thank you for the Great idea!!
And, i resorted to your idea when a 36" crowbar, every flathead screw driver, and prybar i own wouldn't cut it
You are most welcome. Thanks for sharing your experience. I hope it helps out a lot of do it yourselfers.
Built one of these, 2 taps with the big hammer and popped right out. Thanks for the idea. Spent 2 days trying to use a pry bar with no success, lol.
Hi Brad, same result I had. I think the key is the tool allows you to pull it straight out rather than prying it out at an angle. Using a hammer helps too!
Мне понравилась конструкция. Спасибо. Я пользуюсь тонким тросиком (3мм) с двумя петлями. Одна петля продевается за корпусом трипода, во вторую петлю вставляется кувалда вес 3 кг. Длина троса выбирается так чтобы удобно было размахнуться рядом с колесом. Резкое движение грузом по оси трипода и он у вас на блюдечке!
Having that problem now with my CV axle. Going to make the tool. Will get back with you. Thanks!!!
Thank you very, very much!! I used an octagonal box, it took a couple tests to get the cut and fit right, but it worked perfectly!!
I am exactly in this predicament and will be trying this tonight! Thank you for the idea!
Awesome. Great alternative for when the vice-grip method ain't working for you. But dang, watch them sharp edges.
The tool is strong enough. I have used it on several cars and it has not broken. The metal box will wrap itself around the cv axle housing which actually helps removal. Try it before assuming it doesn't work.
Can you spot me a 10??
No quality it cannot open the axle ring
Good idea, particularly if there is no space to get a pry bar between the transmission case and the inboard part of the cv axle.
Very clever. Nice set up.
Thanks
Just subscribed awesome information 👍
Great idea. Will try it the next time i need to replace a cv axle.
Very helpful Rob thank you! Love the Ingenuity!
Thanks for your feedback.
You could reduce effort of cutting by using a ceiling "pancake" box,(Hubbell-Raco 295) which is tound and 1" deep. It has no side knockouts or holes to get in the way, and is just as thick and strong.
That might work better. If I build another I will try it out. The one I used is more flexible which helps it wrap around the axle housing.
I'm about to built this 2morrow👍🏽found one at Lowe's with screws in the kit.jus need to cut the form with some snips.thank u
But how and where to attach the metal?
GOOD JOB I AM MAKING ONE HAD TOO MANY TIMES TAKING OUT AXLES THAT WERE A NIGHTMARE
Very ingenious I may just try that thanks for posting.
Thanks for the idea. The pry method is not working for me and this options looks like a winner.
Hi Bob, I think it will work well for you. Super easy and will come out fast.
I like your tool hack. Nice job, thanks for sharing your low-cost DIY approach.
I was just looking up a tool the price 170.bucks Home Depot my favorite store I will make this Thanks
Remember kids, when pulling the axle on many Subaru's, don't forget the roll pin and when installing new unit, make sure you get the splines indexed right so you can put the roll pin back in.
Great ingenuity. I'm about to do this job on my S-10. Hopefully I won't need this tool but if I do, I now no how to build one easily and cheaply. Thanks.
You may be able to do it without the tool, but my experience was minutes vs an hour without the tool. Good luck.
@@robthefixitguy7185 Got them out fairly easily with a ball joint pickle fork. Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good.;-)
@@x-man5056 That's great news.
Thanks Rob! This came in really handy today
thanks a lot, it really works, is a very good idea
I already have a slide hammer kit but it doesn’t come with cv forks which is dumb af. I’m thinking there has to be a way to get some thin durable strapping long enough to slit a hole in the middle fitnitnaround two side of the axle and slide it in the crack between the transmission or t case and cv housing then with the two end look then around and put a hole in them then put the slide hammer in the two holes and clamp both sides with some washers and nuts then pull as usual? But is standard strapping thin enough to fit? They should make a master set of those slide hammer fork puller attachments. They’re even pricey on Amazon like $15-25 each.
Great idea. Given I've got "half" of a CV stuck in my transmission now, I'm going to head to Lowes or Home Depot to get the materials. Thank you!
Let me know how it works out.
Price update: Electrical box 7.98 36x3/4x1/8 11.93 x 2 = $34.47 with tax. The rest I have in the garage.Just for grins I went to an inflation calculator and it works the other way around and it gave me 17.87 back in 1997. That's still nearly double your claim. There are cheaper boxes but not the type that would work well for this job. Most of the boxes are plastic nowadays. And a simple steel bar for nearly $12! wtf I think they are just gouging us. What doesn't make sense is how usually the raw materials things tend to be more expensive than the manufactured parts. I can think of a lot of things for $12 that require work and materials to produce that would seem to be more expensive. A burger King whopper meal is about that much and that requires all sorts of handling and preparation. A steel bar does not.
Based on his accent he may be referring to Canadian dollars. And metal prices fluctuate quite a lot
Great idea! I will try this.
Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Awesome tool thanks for the how to video really works great
Thanks for your feedback. Glad it worked for you.
This is awesome thank you
without video you could tell me this guy is Jordan Peterson. the flow, the cadence, the rasp, the accent, he sounds exactly like Jordan Peterson
He'll fix your car AND clean your room!
He's being so nice and helpful, why would you insult him like that?
definitely going to try this tomorrow!
If you turn the CV axle over to different parts of its rotation you'll eventually find the point where the internal retainer ring at the end of the shaft is not holding it in place and you can just pull it out easily with a pry bar like in almost all other videos on how to remove a cv axle. Probably the reason shocking it with this puller works is that it's jiggling the retainer ring enough to get it out, but you can get the same effect just by turning the shaft to the right angle.
Hi Matt, the problem with some vehicles, like mine, is that there is no access on one side for a pry bar. Therefore I needed a way to pull the cv axle out. Thanks for your comment.
You'd have trouble believing an engineer could be so dumb... but on some vehicles you can't get a pickle fork or a pry bar in there.
You can’t always fit a pry bar in on some vehicles.
I will be building this tool in the near future. All the pieces can be bought easily, and I can transport it to salvage yards to remove front drive axles which are hard to access the axles because the cars sit on the ground in most cases. But what about the ceiling electrical box? What is the dimensions of the box? The stock front drive axle body on many GM cars are not perfectly round, they have the 3 structured type body that may hinder the attachment of the electrical box to it when removing. Is there a model number you can provide, or anyone else that can say which box they bought and where they bought it?
The box I used is 3.5" by 3.5". The box will flex after you cut it which will work perfectly when you are sliding it around the axle.
knowledge is power
Good vid Richard Gere
The Driver side axle is REALLY stuck good on my 2005 Jimmy, you think this would take it out??
start using knee pads or kneeling pad while your knees still work, from an old guy.
Great idea. I need to get some pads!
Or someday you could spend $50,000-$60,000, a few days in a hospital, six weeks or so in physical therapy and about a year to fully recover and you have got new knees.
I used contruction type (with 2 straps each leg) knee pads for years. One day my friend showed up wit two vollyball knee pads ($10) Fully elastic,easy to pull on and so comfortable! Wow!
Awesome information sir...
Most Toyota s are stuck after 160 thousand miles, must cut boot off first then make tool vise grip 3 foot threaded rod welded to part that turns ,5 lb sledge head, nut and washer.
Is that electrical box 4" or 6" ?
Really smart
I will actually try this next week with TL
great simple vid thank you
I'm going to try unistrut for the arms
Great idea.
Thank you. Hope it works out for you.
Genius!
Nice concept 👍
Thanks.
Good idea Thanks for Sharing
Nice trick, but im unable to find metal electrical boxes in my country (Norway) -- they are all plastic now!
I doubt that conduit box will last very long. Some might pop easily but probably 50% of them would put up more of a fight than that contraption could muster. Great diy hack though if your in a pinch.
Hi, the electrical box actually wraps around the CV axle while pulling. It doesn't break like you might think. Try it and see.
great idea
Brilliant!
BRAVO 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹 CIAO FROM ITALY
I have never had any issue at all taking them out. There is no reason for it ro be stuck that badly..... but you gotta do what you gotta do
Hi Steve, thanks for your comment. The issue is sometimes there is not enough space to get a pry bar in. Purchasing a specialty tool costs $150. I found this tool makes it really easy to remove the cv axle regardless of space limits.
would it work on a atv or would the electrical box be to large
The box I used is 3.5" by 3.5". Not sure how big ATV CV axles are.
Thanks brother 👍
You are welcome
thanks man, I am going to try this on my 1990 toyota wagon, stupid axle is stuck like chuck!!!
Let me know how it works out.
Nice idea.
Thanks.
Nice build but why wouldn't you just come at the axle from underneath with a pickle fork?
Hi Kris, on my vehicle there is no access from below, subframe is in the way. Only method that works is a puller, but I didn't want to pay $150 for one.
...or go to AutoZone and borrow the axel removal tool and a slide hammer for free.
True, you can borrow store tools, but often the tools are out when you need them. That is why I made my own. I can use it anytime I want or lend it to friends and neighbours.
ehhhh time consumming running around for parts plus u did waste gas so it wasn't free 😜😜😜😜
@@luisarriaza6807 A trip to the hardware store or a trip to the parts store. Same difference
Plus this way it can be made to fit situations when a rental tool doesn't since sometimes they are too general and don't work out, and next time you don't have to drive anywhere.
or go to harbor freight to get a pry that would usually be advertised as a ball joint remover. I had an axle that I could no get out with normal angled pry bar, but this dual fork puppy janked it out by just inserting it under and a good two taps on the handle with a hammer.
Slide hammer is only viable if you are replacing the axle. My current need is to remove a good cv axle to replace an alternator. I was pondering a similar solution, but the outlet box is a good idea.
Would have like to see it actually being used.
Here is my video using the tool: ua-cam.com/video/Hm2FKD7j_PQ/v-deo.html
I like 👍 this
Perfect!!!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great, glad it helped.