Filling Gaps in Miniatures WITH EASE Before and After Priming
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2022
- Naomi shows you how to you to fill those pesky join-lines and mouldlines and seams without fuss. Well, without too much fuss. Cloaks are the worst. Okay, heads are the worst. But cloaks are more often the worst.
Ask away in the comments if you still have something you need fixing!!
These techniques apply to Warhammer Miniatures, Dungeons & Dragons miniatures, Star Wars Legion miniatures, etc., i.e. any miniature that you intend to paint after the fix.
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This literally came out in the midst of my dismay about my Nighthaunt. You aren't a life-saver but you sure are an undeath-saver. And in the eyes of Nagash, that's much better.
"plastic glue bond is stronger than the Warp". They should try closing the Rift with plastic glue then!
I recall when I realized that ultra thin plastic cement could be used to purposefully melt seams and mold lines on models to perfectly smooth the surface. It's not immediately intuitive since of course, the advice for beginners is to be careful with the cement. Don't let melt details, etc.
Also, a brand of putty I can recommend is "Perfect Plastic Putty". It is easy to brush smooth with a slightly damp brush after it hardens. It has allowed me to fill in all sorts of gaps and uneven surfaces that would normally require a lot of sanding and reshaping of the model. You can in fact make a damp slurry of it, put that onto a brush, and pull it over a model to find minute gaps and cracks - the putty will flow into them and show up as bright white. And the excess can be washed right off with a wet brush. It will completely dissolve.
I will definitely say this....after watching this and using a brush to fill gaps with plastic glue this changed how I did assembly. I also use matt varnish to do final hiding of the glue and final evening of the surface. Thanks so much!!!!
I never looked into plastic putty, but wow that seam with the flow improver looked great, thanks for the tip.
Very informational! Nothing is more annoying than putting together a model, priming it, only to have a nasty seam appear. It's like a beaming spotlight on an otherwise beautiful model.
I often find with greenstuff it's not very flexible or shapable even when freshly made and it tends to stick to the tools even when wet but the plastic putty is a game changer!
I use green stuff putty to fill in those holes on my models, it works well for me over the years. The plastic putty is something I'm interested in giving it a go, so I'll use that for my next projects. Some of them are already about to be prime, so it'll give me time to double check for those mold-holes. Thank you for showing me some new tips.
The scrolling text scrolling back in reverse 😂😂 Thanks for the tips. This is very helpful in my continuing journey of figuring out what the heck im doing lol.
Your content is so helpful. I really appreciate the straightforward practical advice.
EPIC video, thank you! I've just gotten back into Warhammer and I've built my first two combat patrols. I told myself that I wouldn't bother with these small seems or gaps but then I got to that big tyranid in the Ultimate Starter set and I realised that I've got to do something. This video has been super helpful!
Legit found this video specifically because of the psychophage. Bastard's pins do not want you to get rid of the seam
This is a rely good video. Love how it shows different cinds of gaps and shot different solutions.
Really useful skills to teach us... i'm fairly new to plastic kits (moved into this from metal miniatures), and I found a similar thing recently. But you explained the 'science' a lot more clearly.
That trick with the hair bands is awesome, btw... definitely going to use that, thank you!
Thank you Naomi! Both for the tips and tricks, as well as for checking whether we were still reading 😋
I use the foam like the kind that comes used to come in blister packs.
I use it to stop up any excess glue that runs into any place to cover up the detail it sucks it up like a sponge.
Great hobby tips!👍
I’m new to this and the space marine outrider bikes I’m building have some nice gaps. Going to give this a try! I also didn’t know about waiting a while after priming before painting. Thanks!
As an Ork fan, I LOVE Green Stuff
Thank you for the advice, picked up the tamiya glue at my local friendly craft store, works well for small areas where you are fitting parts into a small hole
Thanks for the tip. I've been using plastic putty for years and never thought about adding flow improver, Also, sprue goo works great for filling gaps in the smoother areas.
I didn’t know about plastic putty before, but it’ll help with one of the projects I’m working on right now. Thanks!
Thanks Naomi! I had the Vallejo plastic putty, but couldn't get it to flow nicely and started to get irked with the whole thing. The airbrush flow improver is a genius move to help it!
Going into the groves of those mechanicus cloaks with greenstuff totally burned me out on miniature assembly (that and the moldline removal) and haven't touched that army in years. Must give it another try thx for sharing 😊
Thank you , Lady Naomi .
🐺
Large gaps in plastic models like you can get with conversion work can also be filled using sprue shavings pushed into the gap and dissolved using the method Naomi described. Sculpt the plastic filler while it sets.
Also, don't use bluetack coated with superglue as a substitute for epoxy putty like green/grey stuff.
I also use homemade Sprue Glue/Goo! It's very easy to make.
Take a half empty or more empty bottle of plastic glue/cement then add to it cut up pieces of plastic sprues until they are at the top of the liquid. Put the cap back on and let it sit for a day or so, shaking it every now and then is also fine. If you want it thicker, just add more sprue. If you want it thinner add more plastic glue/cement or use less sprues next time.
For that Ad Mech cloak I would have used Sprue Glue/Goo on the seam when building and then after a few minutes of it setting up, clean up any excess with pure plastic glue/cement. Also it can be cut and sanded as regular because it is nothing but plastic.
Plastic puddy works much better
@@Vokdor1 not really. Sprue Goo is nothing more than softened semi liquid styrene. It will clean up and be nothing more than the plastic of the model you are working with.
@@assembly_language3948 yes really, you speak like someone who has never used plastic putty. Putty can be controlled with precision, and its viscosity can be changed. The smallest gaps can be filled with the tiniest brush. It is immensely superior.
😊😊 Another great video. Thank you for sharing another great tip!
Yes, I am still reading. :) Thank you for the video.
Also very impressed with plastic putty demo. Excellent. Subbed (thought I was)
Awesome. Very very helpful. Thanks!!!
thank you for the vid! very helpful
I've been using Evercoat 2 part professional polyester body glaze for my resin parts. It's an automotive body filler with a very fine grind of filler.
The only downsides is you have a very small window of 8-10 minutes or so before it cures. This could be considered a benefit by experienced people who want to get back to work quickly. It's cheap and it's easy to sculpt/sand.
Thanks for the tips!
I've never used plastic putty before - need to look for that online! I normally use Tamiya MrPrimerSurfacer 1000, which does an admirable job, but since it's not water-based it's a nightmare washing my brush after that....
Highly recommend you try sprue goo. Take Tamiya thing glue and put bits of sprue in and leave it. They’ll melt so you get glue with melted plastic. So when you put it on your essentially adding plastic to the model, and eliminating the seam. Do note the more sprue you put in thicker the goo gets.
Building my first Creature Caster model. Lots of resin gaps. I'm awful, and I mean absolutely awful at greenstuff (puddy and liquid green) so hopefully this'll help.
I would be working the mold edges with knife and files to make thinner and reduce the seam first . Especially the out of sight inside join areas . Preparation 95% of the job.
thank you!
Good 👍🏻 video 😎
Skills.lol. I remember when the rt1 beakie marines came out. I glued the whole thirty together on my room and my mum thought I was up to sniffing glue to get high cos of the strong smell it gives off. hahaha. I was like "NoooooIm not on drugs mum." haha Cheers for the vid
Did you ask her to get you a Pepsi? All I wanted was a Pepsi!
I had a weekend like that at ~10yo, only it was an Airfix B-29 superfortress I built in a closed room XD
I wasn't introduced to warhammer until three years later.
My shelves of WiPs now covers the walls of a 25m² room... with some in crates on the floor.
Well this is quite timely, I've just run into the problem with the cloaks and was wondering how to fix it when this video appeared as if by magic.
Go forth and green stuff and before you know it you'll be sculpting a miniature from scratch LOL
I use baking soda and super glue , works great and it also a lifesaver for attaching those pieces that are usually so annoying
do you find if you made a mistake you can pry it apart after? I know I can with plastic Glue .
@@Rusty_Gold85 yeah if I'm really careful I can use an xacto knife and get it apart but the bond is pretty secure. I do a ton of dry fitting to try to avoid mistakes but it happens to everyone now and then
Plastic glue is…stronger than….the warp? THE warp? Better tell those librarians that they need to run if their enemies are packing plastic glue. Nothing like a WH40K dad joke. I’ll see myself out…
Don’t forget to like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 😁❤️👍🏻
Conquest Spire!
Please help, my son decided to prime the figures before assembling, and there are now giant cracks in-between the pieces, how to fix?
Oh gee whiz 😆
Well, they would have to be primed again, but you can add plastic glue to the cracks, if they're small, to seal them
Or you can use Vallejo plastic putty or AK Interactive putty and add that (it can be thinned down with water) to the cracks, smoothing down with water once tacky, or sanded or shaved down once dry. And then re-prime.
Interesting video, especially the part with vallejo plastic putty and flow improver, gonna try that myself :3 One question tho - did you try using regular tamiya plastic glue (white) instead of extra thin for pre-gluing the parts? Ive noticed you use extra thin on parts before gluing them, but you might be better using regular glue for that - extra thin was designed to be used on parts already put together where capilary action makes it spread, and it evaporates really fast because of it (and stinks a plenty), regular one doesnt evaporate nearly as fast and can be applied without having to hurry nearly as much :3
Perhaps for newer modelers who take a longer length of time to assemble each piece, but for me I prefer using the extra thin at all points of the process because I fix as I go and the precision that the extra thin brush gives me, and my speed, work better than the white capped one.
I would use the white capped one for building terrain, which has more solid pieces and stiffer plastic, and in general larger surface areas to cover all the once with glue. Depends on the terrain :)
@@swordnsteele712 I seeee. BTW tried the trick with flow improver and it ate through my primer x) (vallejo black). IDK if it didnt cure enough it it's too agressive for it...
When did you start work on it after you primed? 😅
Leave at least 24h of cure time before doing anything over a primer.
Some primers even call for a week of curing first!
@@swordnsteele712 I'm pretty sure it was at least 24 if not 48 hours. Next time I'll try with water with a drop of flow improver (it's probably the IPA that's in it that caused the reaction). That, and I'm REALLY tempted to try mr primer surfacer, tons of people claim it's THE best primer ever... except it stinks like hell. Good thing I have spray booth, but still...
Could please provide the name of the product you are using ?
Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement, Vallejo Plastic Putty and The Army Painter Green Stuff at one point or another :)
I got headaches from superglue when I first started it to glue models together lol
It's gw green with stuff as good as plastic putty? Ps love the channel 👍❤
Thank you 😊
I prefer plastic putty since you can use a regular paintbrush with it for better control, thinning it down with water or a medium as you see fit :) And you can paint over it once it has completely dried, though it's white so another quick priming in that area might be best!
Why did i never think of using hair ties!
💚💚💚💚💚
I know you're using an airbrush to apply the paint. I would like to know what your solution to ventilation is when airbrushing.
An electric airbrush booth, ventilator mask so as to not breathe in the paint particles, and a hobby room just for such things with a big accessible window and a door to close to allow the venting booth to work away + the heavier-than-air paint particles to dry up and fall given time. :)
For all your gluing, a nice seat by the window should be used, too!
I hope that helps!
A basic bathroom style forced ventilation fan doesn't hurt either
Plastic glue is great nut if it on your fingers, you then leave your prints on the model and then you have to fix that
If you find you are regularly getting it on your fingers, you are likely using too much of it at the one time. Try using less and let it dry before continuing until you don't suffer that issue. You can always add another layer of it later if you want a stronger bond. Also, you can fix your fingerprints by using the plastic glue with a soft brush over the prints to rub them away. Again, with very little glue at a time!
😀👍
Gap filler .... I use vallejo matt varnish
Enjoyed the video, but your crawling subtitles were a bit of a challenge to read. Because of the direction the text was moving, it felt like I was trying to read backwards. I think it would have been more natural if the text had been moving the opposite direction.
Seams belong on stockings.
Say plastic glue one more time 😂
Super glue and baking soda makes a great crack filler.
Ahhh, you have reminded me of a point I did not say! Plastic putty isn't smelly or toxic, so even if there were a cost benefit, I'd personally prefer it to a super glue option 🤔
Thank you for sharing your ideas with me :)
I luffs Naomi! She the nicest, sweetest lady I nose on youtoobs 🥰🐶❤️I a good judge characters, the mailman he not nice! I gon gets him one day! 🐶
microphone is bad or the filter is, but nice video otherwise.
damn girl, youre quirky af 🤣