This is a great tip. Especially because I paint all of my large scale figures in sub assemblies. Important to note and the part that scares most people. If you have to fill. Use a filler that is water soluble and the excess can be removed as you go. Avoid sanding if at all possible! I found acrylic gel medium to be a good option. It's durable, bonds to anything, can be cleaned or thinned with water, doesn't shrink and can be colored with any acrylic paint. Food for thought.
I'm definitely one of those who has had clear assembly lines on models in the past because "I've mixed so many paints and inks, through the shades and highlights - I'll never be able to colour match it" Vince: "It doesn't matter, noone will notice". Me: "Wait... what?" I think one of the best things you're doing here is giving people permission to fail (and fix afterwards), as you did (particularly) with the Chibi eyes too. That is an incredibly powerful thing...
Thank you, that is what I am aiming for almost every time. The reality is, people often fear failure and let that stop them, when in fact, there is so much more to learn from failure, and in the end, if you aren't making a golden Demon project, it's okay, no one will notice and people will always appreciate you trying.
Good shout Vince! I've said it before, but you've been more helpful to me in this hobby than the combined efforts of the entire community. Really man, you've made a really impressive mark on the scene. Always recommend your hobby cheating videos to people with any questions. Would you consider reviewing the new scale 75 paints? I'm really intrigued by them. Tube paints for minis?? Crazy!
Thanks Vince! This was a really useful video. I'm beginning assembly on a dragon project and was sure I needed to paint the wings as sub-assemblies as they are gathered around the body. Was worrying how I'd fill the gaps and match up the paint when the painting was finished and I was assembling the piece. This gives me the confidence to try it! Have found your channel extremely useful since my return to the hobby almost 2 years ago. 👌😎
@@VinceVenturella Outta curiosity, how wet is your wet pallete? I'm in such a dry environment that it's been marginally effective and wondering if its me?
I couldn't take my eyes off the shield. What amazing details all around the figure... Like the scarring, I am still not sure if they are painted or actually scratches.
The other thing to consider is when you've painted your sub assemblies and you've painted everything (including the points where the parts are to have glue applied to them) how do you neatly remove the paint from those points prior to applying plastic glue ? infact do you even do this ? or do you just put the plastic glue over the paint ? I'd rather not do this as the plastic glue often dissolves the paint and the glue melted paint residue starts going places where you don't want it to. Do you guys remove the paint from the sub assemblies using a cotton bud dipped in some alcohol based liquid only on the part where it's going to be glued ? The other thing to highlight in this video is perhaps the importance of glue application, there is nothing worse that having painted your sub assemblies to perfection and then you apply too much glue to the joints and then it spills over the join onto the visible part of your lovely painted model. For superglue I use a ca glue applicator from Flex-i-File with very liquid super glue (say Bob Smith Industries Insta Cure or Army Painters super glue, not the think gloopy, stingy superglue such as gorilla glue; this is a very precise tool and you just burn and scrape the glue off the metal tip if left over glue gets too bulky). For pastic glue I just use an old fine brush to paint on the glue precisely, the bristles harden afterwards but then re-soften when you dip it back into the super glue.
I actually keep some testors plastic cement (gel) for this purpose. I'm able apply it and bond the pieces without any running. (Don't use it directly out of the tube. The stuff likes to come out due to any pressure on the tube while removing the cap. Just lay some down and apply with a toothpick or something.)
So in general, I put a small piece of blue tack over the areas to make sure they aren't painted, then the glue will go on without issue. If there is a little paint, plastic glue will generally eat through it.
I use this all the time since you showed how to get rid of mold lines with varnish while painting. I now often chose gloss varnish over milliput. But very often after painting the gloss will show through the colors. So I always make a final layer with AK Interactive matte varnish.
Hi Vince! Matte vs Gloss: You wrote in the comments that gloss varnish is better than matte varnish for gaps filling (if I've read you correctly). Would you mind telling us more about why it is the case? (I suspect the surface tension of the glossy varnish makes layers thicker, but since we push the varnish onto the crack, it shouldn't really have any effect, should it?)
Could you please discuss that wire loop thing and other tricks you know for mounting heavier models on a grippable thing? For some reason I just struggle getting heavy models to stay put on my jam jar lately and my plasti-tack is failing at its one task. *Klunk* *Smash*
I get this is a large model, so overdoing it with CA is probably not as big of an issue. But with something a little closer to 28 mm, being a noob I find it easier to use a thin layer of epoxy putty to put everything back together for certain joints. Gives a little more time if I screw things up. For something like ball and socket joints in GW models, super glue is great. But when I'm connecting legs to torsos in thin female minis (say like Relic Knights for example), it really sucks when the alignment is slightly off because the glue dries too fast. You can't remove this with an ultrasonic cleaner because there is virtually no room for the bubbles to get in a joint like this once it cures. You can cut the model up and reattach things, but then you have to re-sculpt details that get damaged in the sawing process. It's a real PITA. That said, I love your varnish trick. I saw when you used the matte variety in an earlier video when I didn't have the plastic putty on hand, and it saved me a hassle more than a few times.
Thanks for this 'stop gap' video :0 Great interview w/Erik and great to get a class in with you at Nova, I'm feeling a good deal more confident with free-hand. Video topic suggestion: Forge World Warpgnaw Verminlord aka how to build/correct/paint large resin Skaven (maybe basing ideas too). 6 Keepers now but how many greater Rat Demons? If it's less than 6... well Thanquol probably has some words for you.
Well, I already painted my Warpgnaw Vermin Lord and posted him a while back, not sure what I would make a video on specifically, any particular challenges?
@@VinceVenturella Ahh, I must have missed the pictures. I can't think of any specific challenges that you haven't already covered. Perhaps a more macro level like 'avoiding pitfalls' of planning and painting a very large creature/monster for new folks (like me) who have progressed from novice to apprentice level on clanrats/infantry/battleline, but still feel intimidated by that first Verminlord/Behemoth/GUO etc. Just a thought, maybe it would resonate with others or perhaps this has been covered already. Either way thanks for asking :)
Funny I’m definitely one of those people you describe who doesn’t do sub assemblies because of too many past mistakes and disasters trying to fit in pieces. The Khinerai were a nightmare :(
Came to this from March '24's AMA video. I've run into problems with superglue vapors discoloring the paint. It seems to be at it's worst when I use a gel superglue with an accelerant. Beyond the Zap-a-Gap shown here are there any other tips on glues that don't discolor?
It can happen sometimes, using a very small amount of gel, and then not using an accelerant is a way, but super glue can always do it to a point. Using a little sprue goo in the middle can help. Then varnish to seal it up.
So when do you usually sub assembly Vince? Do you ever if a piece is not going to be in a competition? I finally got over the painting hangups I had when I got into hobby at AOS launch and am knee deep in my nighthaunt army. I dont swe any major issues with them but I'm going to get the bone Reapers and some of them seem like sub assembly candidates. But I'm just painting them for myself and trying different things. Is it really worth the trouble then?
Competition pieces for sure, that is when I am the most serious about them. For armies and gaming stuff, I try to avoid them unless there is no alternative. So for example, some common ones are riders and their mounts, those are always separate. Slaanesh chariots for example were the chariot, the "horses" and the daemonettes all separate. With my Ironjawz, the armor plates on the top were separate from the brutes. The other common example is big wings, so like for Saint Celestine or something.
Vince, I had to comment after watching this video. I watched your video because I'm a new beginning painter and trying to do a Japanese army for Bolt action, and after a ton of frustration getting started I decided the best thing to do would be to paint my army in sub assemblies. So in an attempt to see how everyone else does this I watched your video here. Well, I spent more time ooohing and ahhhing over your model's paint job than really watching and listening to the video, I'm not so sure I heard anything you had to say on the subject at first. It was truly fantastic. I eventually backed up and watched your video again so I could see more what you said, but I immediately began watching your beginner videos and found myself binge watching both your beginner videos, the one on primer and another one on diluting paint. I think your videos are some of the best I've ever seen, and instantly subbed to your channel. Your 20+ years of experience truly shows when you explain things. It's very obvious to me you know what your talking about. And I always enjoy learning from people that are the best. Your work speaks for itself. I'm just getting started, but can't wait to watch each and every one of your videos on painting techniques and learn from all your videos you've posted on painting topics. Thanks so much for all your efforts of making videos and sharing your talent with us. You've cleared up alot of questions I've had on painting, I wish I could have found your channel sooner for sure. You asked in one of your videos if there was anything you didn't cover. Not really, but this is probably a newbie question. For me, I started with Vallejo paints. However, something I found to be an issue was when they've been sitting on the shelf for awhile and even after a ton of shaking the paints are still very very thick or seem dried out. Is there a good way to prep your paints? Thoughts?? I would also love to know what your position is on companies that claim you don't have to primer their models before painting. Namely Reaper Bones and Nolzurs miniatures. I thought of this when watching your primer video. You are a wealth of information my friend and I can't wait to be a student and learn from your knowledge on this subject. Your work is truly amazing. Sorry this got so long...but I had to comment. Thanks...Cheers!!
Thanks for subbing and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. So a few answers. 1) If you're paint has dried out, there really isn't much you can do to make it perfect, BUT you can buy straight acryllic medium (it comes in bottles from the craft/hobby/art store) and add a few drops along with a mixing ball (anything non-ferrous) and shake it can restore it somewhat. 2) I always prime all models, even if they say they are primed. Hope that all helps!
Thanks for the time and effort you spend on your videos. Have you tried this with non Vallejo varnishes? I tried this with AK Interactive varnishes after seeing your old video, and after many applications on a small crack, it didn’t have any noticeable effect. Maybe I should just pickup some Vallejo varnish for this sole purpose.
I love your painting! I want to have painted miniature babies with you!!! :P Your painting is amazing and thank you for the great tip on fixing minis :)
This is a great tip. Especially because I paint all of my large scale figures in sub assemblies. Important to note and the part that scares most people. If you have to fill. Use a filler that is water soluble and the excess can be removed as you go. Avoid sanding if at all possible! I found acrylic gel medium to be a good option. It's durable, bonds to anything, can be cleaned or thinned with water, doesn't shrink and can be colored with any acrylic paint. Food for thought.
That's a great idea, I have some acrylic gel medium, never thought of this use. Great share.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I use that stuff for so many things. It's so versatile. Plus it's cheap and damn near fool proof
From a real beginner, it's really awe inspiring how fearless you are about the placing the paint
It's just time and practice, nothing more. :) (In general, we are all too afraid of placing our paint, working faster, you can always blend).
I'm definitely one of those who has had clear assembly lines on models in the past because "I've mixed so many paints and inks, through the shades and highlights - I'll never be able to colour match it"
Vince: "It doesn't matter, noone will notice".
Me: "Wait... what?"
I think one of the best things you're doing here is giving people permission to fail (and fix afterwards), as you did (particularly) with the Chibi eyes too.
That is an incredibly powerful thing...
Thank you, that is what I am aiming for almost every time. The reality is, people often fear failure and let that stop them, when in fact, there is so much more to learn from failure, and in the end, if you aren't making a golden Demon project, it's okay, no one will notice and people will always appreciate you trying.
Good shout Vince! I've said it before, but you've been more helpful to me in this hobby than the combined efforts of the entire community. Really man, you've made a really impressive mark on the scene. Always recommend your hobby cheating videos to people with any questions. Would you consider reviewing the new scale 75 paints? I'm really intrigued by them. Tube paints for minis?? Crazy!
Yep, I have been experimenting with them and I'm going to make a review soon.
Thanks Vince! This was a really useful video. I'm beginning assembly on a dragon project and was sure I needed to paint the wings as sub-assemblies as they are gathered around the body. Was worrying how I'd fill the gaps and match up the paint when the painting was finished and I was assembling the piece. This gives me the confidence to try it! Have found your channel extremely useful since my return to the hobby almost 2 years ago. 👌😎
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much for this! I've been looking everywhere and found nothing covering the end of the sub-assembly process.
Glad I could help!
Your varnish trick is amazing. I did a "worst case scenario" with my current project and the gaps and lines did practically disappear. Thanks
That wonderful, happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella Outta curiosity, how wet is your wet pallete? I'm in such a dry environment that it's been marginally effective and wondering if its me?
@@bencoomer2000 I keep it pretty wet, my basement office is very, very dry, so I have to keep it quite liquid.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. Is there a point of being too wet?
Sure, when your paints are basically turning to water on the pallette (one key is to not close the palette all the way).
Would love to see NMM Bronze done. Great video as always my man!
Well, I did copper here, and it's quite close, you just pull out the orange basically - ua-cam.com/video/aLmu6wyO6Wo/v-deo.html
That being said, I will add it to the list. :)
I couldn't take my eyes off the shield. What amazing details all around the figure... Like the scarring, I am still not sure if they are painted or actually scratches.
Well thank you, the answer is yes. ;)
Ah, just in time for my Warhound Titan. Thanks for the vid, love the series.
Awesome, happy to help as always.
The other thing to consider is when you've painted your sub assemblies and you've painted everything (including the points where the parts are to have glue applied to them) how do you neatly remove the paint from those points prior to applying plastic glue ? infact do you even do this ? or do you just put the plastic glue over the paint ? I'd rather not do this as the plastic glue often dissolves the paint and the glue melted paint residue starts going places where you don't want it to. Do you guys remove the paint from the sub assemblies using a cotton bud dipped in some alcohol based liquid only on the part where it's going to be glued ?
The other thing to highlight in this video is perhaps the importance of glue application, there is nothing worse that having painted your sub assemblies to perfection and then you apply too much glue to the joints and then it spills over the join onto the visible part of your lovely painted model. For superglue I use a ca glue applicator from Flex-i-File with very liquid super glue (say Bob Smith Industries Insta Cure or Army Painters super glue, not the think gloopy, stingy superglue such as gorilla glue; this is a very precise tool and you just burn and scrape the glue off the metal tip if left over glue gets too bulky). For pastic glue I just use an old fine brush to paint on the glue precisely, the bristles harden afterwards but then re-soften when you dip it back into the super glue.
I actually keep some testors plastic cement (gel) for this purpose. I'm able apply it and bond the pieces without any running. (Don't use it directly out of the tube. The stuff likes to come out due to any pressure on the tube while removing the cap. Just lay some down and apply with a toothpick or something.)
So in general, I put a small piece of blue tack over the areas to make sure they aren't painted, then the glue will go on without issue. If there is a little paint, plastic glue will generally eat through it.
9:19 "Revarnish that backside because it's got a big crack in it." Do you want to rethink that wording, Vince?!
Do we not do "Phrasing" here?
PHRASING! ;)
Go on then, shoot the messenger!
I use this all the time since you showed how to get rid of mold lines with varnish while painting. I now often chose gloss varnish over milliput.
But very often after painting the gloss will show through the colors. So I always make a final layer with AK Interactive matte varnish.
Sounds perfect to me. :)
Hi Vince! Matte vs Gloss: You wrote in the comments that gloss varnish is better than matte varnish for gaps filling (if I've read you correctly). Would you mind telling us more about why it is the case? (I suspect the surface tension of the glossy varnish makes layers thicker, but since we push the varnish onto the crack, it shouldn't really have any effect, should it?)
The Gloss Varnish is a little thicker and tends to fill the full gap or crack a little better.
Vince... you inspire me
Thank you, very happy to help as always. :)
Beautiful paint job, and yep this is a big reason I almost never use subassemblies. Maybe I’ll start!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Could you please discuss that wire loop thing and other tricks you know for mounting heavier models on a grippable thing?
For some reason I just struggle getting heavy models to stay put on my jam jar lately and my plasti-tack is failing at its one task. *Klunk* *Smash*
Sure, I will add it to the list. In this case, I just took some wire and wrapped it through a cut in the paint cap to hold it down.
I get this is a large model, so overdoing it with CA is probably not as big of an issue. But with something a little closer to 28 mm, being a noob I find it easier to use a thin layer of epoxy putty to put everything back together for certain joints. Gives a little more time if I screw things up. For something like ball and socket joints in GW models, super glue is great. But when I'm connecting legs to torsos in thin female minis (say like Relic Knights for example), it really sucks when the alignment is slightly off because the glue dries too fast. You can't remove this with an ultrasonic cleaner because there is virtually no room for the bubbles to get in a joint like this once it cures. You can cut the model up and reattach things, but then you have to re-sculpt details that get damaged in the sawing process. It's a real PITA. That said, I love your varnish trick. I saw when you used the matte variety in an earlier video when I didn't have the plastic putty on hand, and it saved me a hassle more than a few times.
Good notes for sure on the glue. Glad I was able to help with the Varnish.
Very nice, thanks for this.
Happy to help!
Great video Vince. Very handy.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
OMG soo good! Amazing work as always, and thanks for the tip.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Thanks for this 'stop gap' video :0 Great interview w/Erik and great to get a class in with you at Nova, I'm feeling a good deal more confident with free-hand. Video topic suggestion: Forge World Warpgnaw Verminlord aka how to build/correct/paint large resin Skaven (maybe basing ideas too). 6 Keepers now but how many greater Rat Demons? If it's less than 6... well Thanquol probably has some words for you.
Well, I already painted my Warpgnaw Vermin Lord and posted him a while back, not sure what I would make a video on specifically, any particular challenges?
@@VinceVenturella Ahh, I must have missed the pictures. I can't think of any specific challenges that you haven't already covered. Perhaps a more macro level like 'avoiding pitfalls' of planning and painting a very large creature/monster for new folks (like me) who have progressed from novice to apprentice level on clanrats/infantry/battleline, but still feel intimidated by that first Verminlord/Behemoth/GUO etc. Just a thought, maybe it would resonate with others or perhaps this has been covered already. Either way thanks for asking :)
Does the accelerant you use dry clear? If some of it touches a part of the model it you don't want it to, does it mess up the paint job?
It will fog the super glue, so you have to be a little careful (or paint over).
Funny I’m definitely one of those people you describe who doesn’t do sub assemblies because of too many past mistakes and disasters trying to fit in pieces.
The Khinerai were a nightmare :(
Yeah, some miniatures just demand it.
The accelerant doesn’t mess up your paint? That’s so cool! Do you prefer the dropper to the spray?
I did have it varnished first, so that helps, but in general, no, a little bit won't hurt anything. Definitely prefer the dropper.
How did you get that effect on the cloth?
If you mean the patterns and the color, I have a tutorial on it here - ua-cam.com/video/78gJjGZ2c5k/v-deo.html
BUT VINCE you once made a video with matt varnish our lord and saviour and now you cheat on him with the gloss varnish?! what is this madness?!
Gloss is good for those larger gaps. :)
Vince Venturella because it’s I bit thicker? (Was going to ask the same thing)
Came to this from March '24's AMA video. I've run into problems with superglue vapors discoloring the paint. It seems to be at it's worst when I use a gel superglue with an accelerant. Beyond the Zap-a-Gap shown here are there any other tips on glues that don't discolor?
It can happen sometimes, using a very small amount of gel, and then not using an accelerant is a way, but super glue can always do it to a point. Using a little sprue goo in the middle can help. Then varnish to seal it up.
"Down the crack... onto the backside" Come on, Vince, you're better than this :D
I mean, I'm not... ;)
@@VinceVenturella Never change, sir. Never change.
This is all far too neat for me 😂
Well, at least its an option out there for you. :)
Yet another reason to use a wet pallet
It is helpful in keeping those colors to use for sure.
the belt buckle turned today's video rating to M for mature....
It's quite a cod piece for sure. :)
This is great, I really needed this video, like today!
Glad it was helpful! Always happy to assist!
So when do you usually sub assembly Vince? Do you ever if a piece is not going to be in a competition? I finally got over the painting hangups I had when I got into hobby at AOS launch and am knee deep in my nighthaunt army. I dont swe any major issues with them but I'm going to get the bone Reapers and some of them seem like sub assembly candidates. But I'm just painting them for myself and trying different things. Is it really worth the trouble then?
Competition pieces for sure, that is when I am the most serious about them. For armies and gaming stuff, I try to avoid them unless there is no alternative. So for example, some common ones are riders and their mounts, those are always separate. Slaanesh chariots for example were the chariot, the "horses" and the daemonettes all separate. With my Ironjawz, the armor plates on the top were separate from the brutes. The other common example is big wings, so like for Saint Celestine or something.
@@VinceVenturella Awesome thanks! That all makes sense. Definitely going to keep black knight riders and mounts apart then.
Great tip thank you! Quick Question. Can it work with matt varnish?
Yes, absolutely, it might take a few more layers, but it works.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you!!
Vince, I had to comment after watching this video. I watched your video because I'm a new beginning painter and trying to do a Japanese army for Bolt action, and after a ton of frustration getting started I decided the best thing to do would be to paint my army in sub assemblies. So in an attempt to see how everyone else does this I watched your video here. Well, I spent more time ooohing and ahhhing over your model's paint job than really watching and listening to the video, I'm not so sure I heard anything you had to say on the subject at first. It was truly fantastic. I eventually backed up and watched your video again so I could see more what you said, but I immediately began watching your beginner videos and found myself binge watching both your beginner videos, the one on primer and another one on diluting paint. I think your videos are some of the best I've ever seen, and instantly subbed to your channel. Your 20+ years of experience truly shows when you explain things. It's very obvious to me you know what your talking about. And I always enjoy learning from people that are the best. Your work speaks for itself. I'm just getting started, but can't wait to watch each and every one of your videos on painting techniques and learn from all your videos you've posted on painting topics. Thanks so much for all your efforts of making videos and sharing your talent with us. You've cleared up alot of questions I've had on painting, I wish I could have found your channel sooner for sure. You asked in one of your videos if there was anything you didn't cover. Not really, but this is probably a newbie question. For me, I started with Vallejo paints. However, something I found to be an issue was when they've been sitting on the shelf for awhile and even after a ton of shaking the paints are still very very thick or seem dried out. Is there a good way to prep your paints? Thoughts?? I would also love to know what your position is on companies that claim you don't have to primer their models before painting. Namely Reaper Bones and Nolzurs miniatures. I thought of this when watching your primer video. You are a wealth of information my friend and I can't wait to be a student and learn from your knowledge on this subject. Your work is truly amazing. Sorry this got so long...but I had to comment. Thanks...Cheers!!
Thanks for subbing and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. So a few answers. 1) If you're paint has dried out, there really isn't much you can do to make it perfect, BUT you can buy straight acryllic medium (it comes in bottles from the craft/hobby/art store) and add a few drops along with a mixing ball (anything non-ferrous) and shake it can restore it somewhat. 2) I always prime all models, even if they say they are primed. Hope that all helps!
Thanks for the time and effort you spend on your videos. Have you tried this with non Vallejo varnishes? I tried this with AK Interactive varnishes after seeing your old video, and after many applications on a small crack, it didn’t have any noticeable effect. Maybe I should just pickup some Vallejo varnish for this sole purpose.
Honestly, I have pretty much only done this with Vallejo so I can't speak to anything else, but it works well with them.
I love your painting! I want to have painted miniature babies with you!!! :P Your painting is amazing and thank you for the great tip on fixing minis :)
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Did you varnish the model before gluing it. I always assumed that accelerant would eat the paint.
It doesn't really hurt the paint if it's a little, but yes, she was also varnished, but I have used it many times without and it didn't hurt anything.
Thank you so much, this step is my own personal Kryptonite.
Excellent, happy to assist as always. :)
Good stuff as always! I’m about to do a lord discordant and this is really helpful
Excellent, happy to help as always.
Another great hobby cheat, another great vid!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Thank you for this tutorial, been waiting for this one :D You're a true hero
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
great video on a much needed topic.
Thank you Bethany, happy to help as always. :)
That model is so Vince!
It is indeed, I loved this one.
nice tip thx vince
Thank you, happy to help.