you did mention the zero, so I assume you just scrambled your output ('point' in the wrong order). This is normal human behavior. Especially for those juggling a lot of information at once.
Great overview! 🙂 One thing that has been consistent all the years I have worked with art direction for both photographed and 3D rendered images, is that CGI artists tend to exaggerate the very details that photographers want to remove, in shooting the image and post production. A wide lens can usually not have a visibly shallow depth of focus, chromatic aberration is removed in post production, etc. Remember that all commercial photos you see are retouched to some extent. If you want a rendered image to look realistic, you have to make it look like a realistic photograph. Understanding of photography both from an artistic and a technical perspective is crucial - and the one skill that is hardest to find in a CGI artis - as far as I have learned.
I’d sat in a Visual Effects Society meeting in Beverly Hills with John Dykstra, John Knoll, and Dennis Muren, watching them on a panel ripping into faking anamorphic lens flares all over the place. That was almost 15 years ago now and it still sticks with me.
Concerning indoor lighting through windows. You should just use the "Light Path" Node to substitute your glass shader for a completely transparent one for everything except the camera. This way your windows will still look like glass, but will let through all incoming light. This way caustics don't matter and you get less noise in general. A tip for the Sign-Spherical-Mask: You can also use a Math->Power Node instead of the Colorramp. Set it to 2 gives you a nice smooth result and the more you increase it the "smoother" it gets.
Something I found gives a "natural" feel despite being very subtle, is to switch the camera to panoramic equisolid fisheye, but type in a more normal focal length (for whetever reason the thingy won't let you reach higher values unless you manually type the number there in fisheye mode). It's not for all types of shots though and won't work with Eevee.
Absolutely. Found that trick by accident in my first month learning of blender, but lately I've actually understood the value of it. No need to do fake distortions now.
U have high knowledge of 3d in general and thats what I love about you, I knew almost all this tips and tricks now but it took some time to learn all this from experience, but you just made it into whole 1 video, thats really great. Ur videos are really high quality for 3d in general, filled with tons of new things to learn, thank you. 🖤
3:44 - it's nitpicking, but film camera uses 35mm vertically, not horizontally (except for VistaVision, which would apply for your example, but it was quite rare). This applies especially to anamorphic lenses.
The last part about shading tree is the thing I am missing.I've already know basics but you are on a hell different level.I am astonished by your skills!
Very good tips. Optix never produced better results than open denoiser though for me. Hair particles and details are washed out at low samples (10-60) while the open denoiser creates insanely good effects and preserves texture details.
Best ting for photo realism ... imo ... Photographer addon and ACES workflow. Use correct intensity values for lights and camera and boom. all perfect.
This is the first really helpful blender tutorial that I have seen in a while (I haven't played with camera settings much and you described them in a way that is very easy to understand). Thankyou!
Thank you so much...I really needed a refresher course on some of these topics...and a complete schooling on items like Bokeh and Chromatic Aberration that I know next to nothing about.
Hahaha your Hyacinth Bucket reference got me! It lasted barely a second but I fully appreciate that joke :P I'm from the states but used to catch some old BBC shows late at night on PBS with my great grandmother. Keeping up Appearances was one of our favorites!
Actually the Open Image denoiser produces better result, especially with the newly added Prefilter mode set to None or Accurate. The None mode is faster than Accurate mode and more details than "Fast" mode, but may leave some artifact and noise in if the "denoising normal" and "denoising albedo" passes have noise. The Accurate mode solves that problem by prefiltering the two passes but takes a few more seconds to process. "Fast" mode is faster but it has less quality. So I would generally use None mode in viewport and Accurate mode in final render. The OptiX denoiser is not as good as Open Image. This is important to know.
These are some great tips! There's lots I didn't know or really never messed with, specifically the anamorphic lens flares, compositing, and the color modes, so I'm glad you pointed them out! Awesome video!
Loved this video as with most of your content! Invaluable for people using Blender for the first couple of years. However, as a Mac user I was left hanging about how to get the “best” option when it came to the section of denoising. That’s the bit I cannot find advice for best practice.
@@DECODEDVFX Hey Rob, I don’t think there is any option for Mac other than the OpenImage Denoise but it’s the one bit I always struggle with how to get the Mac to perform at its peak using for best renders equivalent to the tips offered to PC users when referring to specific features that a Mac doesn’t have.
@@tartansparkle Ah, of course. I forgot that Apple dropped Nvidia support. If you're stuck with the open denoiser, make sure you activeate it from the render panel rather than adding it in post. You obviously get a bit more control adding the denoise node in compositing, but it's much slower. I feel like the qaulity is a tad worse too, although that could be just in my head. I haven't run any tests. If you're rendering an animation, make sure you open up the advenced section of the rendering properties tab and click the clock icon next to the noise seed value. This will randomize the seed for every frame giving you less distracting denoising artifacts.
Very good and helpful video! I thing about the visuals, maybe crop down to "window" thing of blender and the extra space you get can be used for the promo line, and like that we can see the whole interface, even if it doesn't cover much, I thin it would look prettier. :D
Realtors do this all the time too. I was recently looking at an apartment listing that looked massive because all the pictures were photographed with a lens that was practically a fisheye.
Thank you for the insights. In 1 year of using blender and with the help of many tutorials i know most if not all of what you said... yet, *sigh* the hyper realistic 'natural' render is still out of reach 😢 😭
I'd guess the best way to get to that look is to also study photography and cinematography; replicating real life doesn't end up looking that exciting and will probably never feel right if you compare you renders with photos.
@@Mocorn I might need to look into this, I've mucked around with noise textures and colour ramps to control them but I've not heard of map range nodes with volumes
i like to use real gobos references from stage lights, to have nice shape beam lights in volumetrics. i'm doing this on stage lighting, so why not in Blender ^^
Is there a reason you don't use Blender's NVM denoiser? And what about denoising in the Compositor? I've often found for simple denoising it works better, and increases render times by removing an often annoyingly slow denoise pass in the render,.
Indoor scenes can be tricky for volumetrics because they tend to be quite noisy. You can do it the normal way, using a cube with a volumetric materials. Or you can fake it a few ways. You can render the volume pass separately in EEVEE and composite it in. I've seen people get quite good results from the sunbeam compositing node too.
some nice examples you come around. very helpfull explained not just JADA JADA JADA :) Great The stuff you tell about RTX motion blur, is that a setting or is that Default or how do you use that ?
I'm gonna be the pedantic guy that points out that at 3:49 you're using the film orientation and aspect ratio of 35mm film in the stills application. Movies are shot with the film loaded vertically, so the sprocket holes are on the left and right, and the aspect ratio is roughly 4:3 (Academy ratio is 1.37:1). VistaVision used side-loaded film, but that's another matter, and it used the 1.85:1 aspect ratio for widescreen. Of course your point is still completely valid about wasted space in a cropped frame and the solution of anamorphic squeeze. I just got lost in the details.
Absolutely superb video. I don’t really understand the light path explanation. Why are the pixels bouncing and not light bouncing? One light is red and one is blue. Are they lights red and blue or is that something to do with rgb? I should just google it and do research instead of writing this long annoying message. Ok 👋
At 6:33 I said "I rarely turn the dispersion value higher than 0.2". Which is technically true, however I meant to say 0.02.
I'm an idiot.
amazing video
really helped me
Hey can you tell me what's the difference between filmic log and filmic? Really confused. Thankyou
@@bd3902 filmic log flattens out the image. The colors look brighter and everything just looks flatter imo
@@pino-v5b okay thanks! Bro which one do u prefer for interior scene.
you did mention the zero, so I assume you just scrambled your output ('point' in the wrong order). This is normal human behavior. Especially for those juggling a lot of information at once.
You can make the render a lot better by placing that toilet paper the right way.
:p
@@DECODEDVFX he’s right :p
Notice that is a symptom, but the comment is ultra funny…😂
I think that was on purpose^^
The way he did it is the "I have cats" method.
us new blender user are lucky to have people like you.. making sure we don’t mistakes that older users made
Great overview! 🙂 One thing that has been consistent all the years I have worked with art direction for both photographed and 3D rendered images, is that CGI artists tend to exaggerate the very details that photographers want to remove, in shooting the image and post production. A wide lens can usually not have a visibly shallow depth of focus, chromatic aberration is removed in post production, etc. Remember that all commercial photos you see are retouched to some extent. If you want a rendered image to look realistic, you have to make it look like a realistic photograph. Understanding of photography both from an artistic and a technical perspective is crucial - and the one skill that is hardest to find in a CGI artis - as far as I have learned.
but... bloom and glare 🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤
I’d sat in a Visual Effects Society meeting in Beverly Hills with John Dykstra, John Knoll, and Dennis Muren, watching them on a panel ripping into faking anamorphic lens flares all over the place. That was almost 15 years ago now and it still sticks with me.
Oh my gawd; the comparison at the end was shocking.
From fairly unrealistic to hyper realistic. Great video!
@common_ studio's Gawd, leave him alone.
Concerning indoor lighting through windows. You should just use the "Light Path" Node to substitute your glass shader for a completely transparent one for everything except the camera. This way your windows will still look like glass, but will let through all incoming light. This way caustics don't matter and you get less noise in general.
A tip for the Sign-Spherical-Mask: You can also use a Math->Power Node instead of the Colorramp. Set it to 2 gives you a nice smooth result and the more you increase it the "smoother" it gets.
Something I found gives a "natural" feel despite being very subtle, is to switch the camera to panoramic equisolid fisheye, but type in a more normal focal length (for whetever reason the thingy won't let you reach higher values unless you manually type the number there in fisheye mode). It's not for all types of shots though and won't work with Eevee.
Absolutely. Found that trick by accident in my first month learning of blender, but lately I've actually understood the value of it. No need to do fake distortions now.
Never thought I would see a Keeping Up Appearances reference in a blender video
Loved the lighting tip. Didn't know something like ies textures existed till now. Thanks man. This was an amazing set of tips. Awesome video ✌🏻
All excellent advice. Also, loved the brief cameo of Hyacinth Bucket!
I LOVE the EXIT sign bit, it should be it's own tutorial.
13:19 is just what I needed!
U have high knowledge of 3d in general and thats what I love about you, I knew almost all this tips and tricks now but it took some time to learn all this from experience, but you just made it into whole 1 video, thats really great.
Ur videos are really high quality for 3d in general, filled with tons of new things to learn, thank you. 🖤
Thanks a ton
3:44 - it's nitpicking, but film camera uses 35mm vertically, not horizontally (except for VistaVision, which would apply for your example, but it was quite rare). This applies especially to anamorphic lenses.
Yeah, I know. I couldn't find a good stock image of a cinecam film strip, and I to be honest I couldn't be bothered to make one.
The last part about shading tree is the thing I am missing.I've already know basics but you are on a hell different level.I am astonished by your skills!
Very good tips. Optix never produced better results than open denoiser though for me. Hair particles and details are washed out at low samples (10-60) while the open denoiser creates insanely good effects and preserves texture details.
Very handy. I'm definitly going to try to make some signs today using your tips.
Thank you, this was an exceptionally good Render Tips video. You've changed how i look at a few things here, thanks
Wow. Instant subscribed. Just the info i needed. Keep updating this list please
Best ting for photo realism ... imo ... Photographer addon and ACES workflow. Use correct intensity values for lights and camera and boom. all perfect.
Thank you this is very helpful for new users starting out in renting.
For a newcomer to blender like me, this is fkn gold, thanks a ton man!!♡♡
Very nice tutorial. Thank you.
Excellent essential sum up of neat visual appeal tricks :) Thanks a bunch !
The way I remember focal length is by visualizing a long telescope. Telescopes see far and to do that you make focal length long.
That's how I imagine it too.
This is the first really helpful blender tutorial that I have seen in a while (I haven't played with camera settings much and you described them in a way that is very easy to understand). Thankyou!
Well done. Thanks for the knowledge download.
Thank you so much...I really needed a refresher course on some of these topics...and a complete schooling on items like Bokeh and Chromatic Aberration that I know next to nothing about.
Just what I needed for my render, lets go!
Hahaha your Hyacinth Bucket reference got me! It lasted barely a second but I fully appreciate that joke :P
I'm from the states but used to catch some old BBC shows late at night on PBS with my great grandmother. Keeping up Appearances was one of our favorites!
Could you do a short quick tutorial (like the bedroom) on the bathroom you have used in this video
Really loved this piece of work
Fantastic video. Good tips.
Actually the Open Image denoiser produces better result, especially with the newly added Prefilter mode set to None or Accurate. The None mode is faster than Accurate mode and more details than "Fast" mode, but may leave some artifact and noise in if the "denoising normal" and "denoising albedo" passes have noise. The Accurate mode solves that problem by prefiltering the two passes but takes a few more seconds to process. "Fast" mode is faster but it has less quality. So I would generally use None mode in viewport and Accurate mode in final render. The OptiX denoiser is not as good as Open Image. This is important to know.
I've never heard many of these, like ies and black body... Thank you
Bokah or bokeeeh if you're fancy 🤣🤣🤣
Great video 🙌🏻👏🏻
Thanks!
These are some great tips! There's lots I didn't know or really never messed with, specifically the anamorphic lens flares, compositing, and the color modes, so I'm glad you pointed them out! Awesome video!
Great video mate. Lots of good tips!
Such a great tutorial! I've learned a lot from this.
As usually, your videos are eye opening and super helpful!
Thank you!
Thanks , you are good at explaining thing clearly
This is cramming my brain like a starving man at a buffet.
I'll have to watch this again...and again.
Brilliant tutorial. Keep up the good work
Loved this video as with most of your content! Invaluable for people using Blender for the first couple of years. However, as a Mac user I was left hanging about how to get the “best” option when it came to the section of denoising. That’s the bit I cannot find advice for best practice.
Is denoising different on a Mac?
@@DECODEDVFX Hey Rob, I don’t think there is any option for Mac other than the OpenImage Denoise but it’s the one bit I always struggle with how to get the Mac to perform at its peak using for best renders equivalent to the tips offered to PC users when referring to specific features that a Mac doesn’t have.
@@tartansparkle Ah, of course. I forgot that Apple dropped Nvidia support.
If you're stuck with the open denoiser, make sure you activeate it from the render panel rather than adding it in post. You obviously get a bit more control adding the denoise node in compositing, but it's much slower. I feel like the qaulity is a tad worse too, although that could be just in my head. I haven't run any tests.
If you're rendering an animation, make sure you open up the advenced section of the rendering properties tab and click the clock icon next to the noise seed value. This will randomize the seed for every frame giving you less distracting denoising artifacts.
Many thanks, mate. So much useful information!
this video is literally gold
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.
The sign tips are realy helpfull
Best video for fast and beauty renders, Grand Mercy! Only one your video - boost me like a scene compositor, wonderfull job bro)
Very good and helpful video! I thing about the visuals, maybe crop down to "window" thing of blender and the extra space you get can be used for the promo line, and like that we can see the whole interface, even if it doesn't cover much, I thin it would look prettier. :D
Wow, thank you so much 😍😍
this is actually helpful! thanks
Very good information, thank you.
thank you for yet another great video!
This is a really in-depth and helpful video! Easy subscribe
Thank you
Thank you
Wow this video is incredible
This is literally the best tutorial ive seen so far, its exactly what i needed thank you so much
I've seen somewhere that some archviz studios prefer to use a small focal length (14-20mm) to make the building look more grand.
Realtors do this all the time too. I was recently looking at an apartment listing that looked massive because all the pictures were photographed with a lens that was practically a fisheye.
Thank you for this great video. I learned a lot here.
This was amazing!! Thank you!
Too good. Very well explained
Thanks for the video.
love your content la always. That tilling material is crazy though I would be curious to see that node.
The bathroom tiles? It's just a PBR texture set from textures.com
Excellent content and explanation 👍🏼
Thank you!
Excellent video, had more super useful nuggets than anticipated when I browsed onto this video. Many thanks! *Subscribe button clicked*
THANK YOU SO MUCH MY FRIEND
Thank you for the insights. In 1 year of using blender and with the help of many tutorials i know most if not all of what you said... yet, *sigh* the hyper realistic 'natural' render is still out of reach 😢 😭
I'd guess the best way to get to that look is to also study photography and cinematography; replicating real life doesn't end up looking that exciting and will probably never feel right if you compare you renders with photos.
This is excellent thank you!
"let's add some volumetrics" he says with his 2 3090s
Indeed. Also, I hated volumes until I learned to control them with the map range node.
@@Mocorn I might need to look into this, I've mucked around with noise textures and colour ramps to control them but I've not heard of map range nodes with volumes
Thank You very much. Very much helpful😀
so much alpha in this video! Very much appreciated 🙂
you sir are amazing
So many great tips!
Thank you for that!
What is the song near 9:20
Edit: nvm got it. Coffeehouse by Large (Incase anyone else happened to want to know too)
10:00 - 13:17 How can i do it but in LuxCore?
Thank you!
i like to use real gobos references from stage lights, to have nice shape beam lights in volumetrics. i'm doing this on stage lighting, so why not in Blender ^^
awesome, awesome, Thanks
how to i see the render as the background in the compositer,i have node wrangler
useful video
I’m only 6 minutes into this video and I just want to say thank you
Is there a reason you don't use Blender's NVM denoiser? And what about denoising in the Compositor? I've often found for simple denoising it works better, and increases render times by removing an often annoyingly slow denoise pass in the render,.
optix stopped working on my gtx1070, but it was way better than the other denoiser
I think the word you're looking for in the last part is "surface imperfections"
Great video!
Thanks!
Thanks
What are the best ways to make volumetrics in a indoor scene? Im trying to get a god ray effect.
Indoor scenes can be tricky for volumetrics because they tend to be quite noisy. You can do it the normal way, using a cube with a volumetric materials. Or you can fake it a few ways. You can render the volume pass separately in EEVEE and composite it in. I've seen people get quite good results from the sunbeam compositing node too.
@@DECODEDVFX Thanks for the tip and the fast reply!
some nice examples you come around. very helpfull explained not just JADA JADA JADA :) Great
The stuff you tell about RTX motion blur, is that a setting or is that Default or how do you use that ?
It's enabled automatically if you render on a GPU that supports it.
3.0 OUT TODAY
Nividia makes great products. If only I could actually buy them anywhere.
that deep cut bucket woman reference. ;)
I'm gonna be the pedantic guy that points out that at 3:49 you're using the film orientation and aspect ratio of 35mm film in the stills application. Movies are shot with the film loaded vertically, so the sprocket holes are on the left and right, and the aspect ratio is roughly 4:3 (Academy ratio is 1.37:1). VistaVision used side-loaded film, but that's another matter, and it used the 1.85:1 aspect ratio for widescreen.
Of course your point is still completely valid about wasted space in a cropped frame and the solution of anamorphic squeeze. I just got lost in the details.
I know. I couldn't find any decent stock images of movie reel cells online.
Great video!!!!
Send to me your 3090s and go to get the render farm you deserve. Precious man!
Muito bom, faltou falar do Ambient Occlusion
Absolutely superb video. I don’t really understand the light path explanation. Why are the pixels bouncing and not light bouncing? One light is red and one is blue. Are they lights red and blue or is that something to do with rgb? I should just google it and do research instead of writing this long annoying message. Ok 👋
nice!
Yeah I learned pretty early on that a point light was rarely ever the way to go for realistic lighting
7:27 🤦🏿♂🤦🏿♂I've been called out
it''s bucket dear