just a note...if it tells you to do the front cylinder first then rotate 300 degrees and do the back....then the mark for the front cylinder is the 2nd grove just before the double mark...because then you rotate 300 degrees and you come back to make it to the 1st groove....If you were to use the 1st groove for the front then rotating less than 90 degrees will get you to the 2nd groove and it would be over 360 degrees to get completely around to it again....so based on your instructions of rotating 300degrees...front cylinder is 2nd mark...rotate past the double mark 300 degrees to get to the first mark and set your rear cylinders....
Very enjoyable explanation. I guess it helped that you're not a mechanic and explained every detail which you encountered. Appreciated your effort. Perfect to do more videos like this. 👍
In the service manual it shows TDC on front cylinder as the top mark of the double mark. Then rotate 300 degrees to the first single mark for the rear cylinder.
Another helpful hint...instead of going back and forth when adjusting trying to "blindy" hit the gap....leave your feeler gauge in the gap while you loosen/tighten the nut/allen bolt...thus you'll never be too tight....one time adjustment
I just bought a 2012 950 with 13,000 miles...ride about 3,000 miles per year mostly too and from work....dont think I will worry about doing this job. getting 48 mpg
Well I have 150000 Kms on my 2009 vstar 950, I have only adjusted the valves once at 50000 Kms, the bike runs perfectly, so guess what I’m saying is maybe it is not something that needs to be done as often as they recommend. Great video and this is not a criticism, just my own observation on my bike.
Yeah, Yamaha really screwed the pooch on those marks. My 1100 was just as confusing, and the overpriced tech manual (from Yamaha) wasn't any damn help, either. Get it to TDC marks, then line up marks on cam gears for actual TDC, check rockers for play, and plastic rod in spark plug hole to confirm TDC. Good job.
Another little trick that will work with 90 degree a standard Allen wrench is to get a deep well socket that will just fit over the wrench and use it with an extension for extra leverage. Just make sure it is a tight fit or you will strip the hex bolt.
A screwdriver, you say?!?!... Huh!?!?... I'm NOT too crazy about doing hard metal on soft metals (screwdriver = hardened/forged steel; piston = aluminum). ... I prefer to use a plastic stirring rod!... It's a good/handy tool (non-tool) to keep in your toolbox!.. 😌
I found an easier way on the vstar1300, was to use my finger over the spark plug hole for the pressure (compression stroke) put a stick in the hole and watch for its highest point as it came up, then match up the nearest line in the observation window at the sticks highest point. Then repeat the same proccess for the other cylinder. The valve check on the 950 isn't much different from the 1300 apart from the 1300 has less space to work with.
Good info Something down the bore is real old school TDS stuff . i always used to use a thin wood dowel plus kick starts made life much easier for these jobs. much prefer old style tappet adjustment over shims no fear of dropping bits in side the engine
Before removing the tank did you remove the fuel from the tank? The Yamaha shop manual indicates that the tank should be removed to check valve clearances correctly.
Can you do it like a car and set the valves when they are all closed regardless of TDC? As long as there us no pressure on the valve it should be the same, yes?
Just got the vstar 950 I got almost 10k on it all I know is it is click click click so what do I need to set the at is o.8 or whatever u said the min or max setting I'm confused on the measurements what do I set it at just need the 1 setting please advise
LOL!!!... I don't think he ACTUALLY meant 0.8,... THAT would be a HUGE gap!.. 😂 I think he meant to say 0.08, and 0.05,... NOT 0.8, and 0.5. ... I caught that, too. .. 😋
Yes, still heard the what I've learned is called the "sewing machine" sound. I check the clearance on both and adjust a little. Nothing was out of spec.
just a note...if it tells you to do the front cylinder first then rotate 300 degrees and do the back....then the mark for the front cylinder is the 2nd grove just before the double mark...because then you rotate 300 degrees and you come back to make it to the 1st groove....If you were to use the 1st groove for the front then rotating less than 90 degrees will get you to the 2nd groove and it would be over 360 degrees to get completely around to it again....so based on your instructions of rotating 300degrees...front cylinder is 2nd mark...rotate past the double mark 300 degrees to get to the first mark and set your rear cylinders....
Thanks for simplifying that... 🤔
Very enjoyable explanation. I guess it helped that you're not a mechanic and explained every detail which you encountered. Appreciated your effort. Perfect to do more videos like this. 👍
In the service manual it shows TDC on front cylinder as the top mark of the double mark. Then rotate 300 degrees to the first single mark for the rear cylinder.
Another helpful hint...instead of going back and forth when adjusting trying to "blindy" hit the gap....leave your feeler gauge in the gap while you loosen/tighten the nut/allen bolt...thus you'll never be too tight....one time adjustment
This is exactly what I've been looking for!...
Thanks, a bunch for uploading this video!.. 😊
I just bought a 2012 950 with 13,000 miles...ride about 3,000 miles per year mostly too and from work....dont think I will worry about doing this job. getting 48 mpg
Well I have 150000 Kms on my 2009 vstar 950, I have only adjusted the valves once at 50000 Kms, the bike runs perfectly, so guess what I’m saying is maybe it is not something that needs to be done as often as they recommend. Great video and this is not a criticism, just my own observation on my bike.
Yeah, Yamaha really screwed the pooch on those marks. My 1100 was just as confusing, and the overpriced tech manual (from Yamaha) wasn't any damn help, either. Get it to TDC marks, then line up marks on cam gears for actual TDC, check rockers for play, and plastic rod in spark plug hole to confirm TDC. Good job.
Nice tutorial. I don't even own a motorcycle!
Another little trick that will work with 90 degree a standard Allen wrench is to get a deep well socket that will just fit over the wrench and use it with an extension for extra leverage. Just make sure it is a tight fit or you will strip the hex bolt.
Thanks. I plan to get this bike next. Your sharing is much appreciated.
Thanx, I was thinking out loud just put a screwdriver in hole to find TDC. Walla you did.
A screwdriver, you say?!?!... Huh!?!?...
I'm NOT too crazy about doing hard metal on soft metals (screwdriver = hardened/forged steel; piston = aluminum). ...
I prefer to use a plastic stirring rod!...
It's a good/handy tool (non-tool) to keep in your toolbox!.. 😌
Many thanks. Will come in very handy for me next year
Great video man! I also have a 2012 950. I have 7k miles to go before I do a valve clearance check. I need to do my spark plugs soon too!
For my xvs950 I shortened the short end of an Allen key so it fits in the tight spaces.
I found an easier way on the vstar1300, was to use my finger over the spark plug hole for the pressure (compression stroke) put a stick in the hole and watch for its highest point as it came up, then match up the nearest line in the observation window at the sticks highest point.
Then repeat the same proccess for the other cylinder.
The valve check on the 950 isn't much different from the 1300 apart from the 1300 has less space to work with.
Well Done! Thank you for the info.
Excelente video amigo! Para no ser mecanico lo hiciste muy bien
Nice presentation! What do you suppose if you had not done the adjustment?
Good info
Something down the bore is real old school TDS stuff .
i always used to use a thin wood dowel plus kick starts made life much easier for these jobs.
much prefer old style tappet adjustment over shims no fear of dropping bits in side the engine
Before removing the tank did you remove the fuel from the tank? The Yamaha shop manual indicates that the tank should be removed to check valve clearances correctly.
You said your tank was nearly full, didn't it drain gas when you disconnected the fuel lines?
Can you do it like a car and set the valves when they are all closed regardless of TDC? As long as there us no pressure on the valve it should be the same, yes?
Just got the vstar 950 I got almost 10k on it all I know is it is click click click so what do I need to set the at is o.8 or whatever u said the min or max setting I'm confused on the measurements what do I set it at just need the 1 setting please advise
LOL!!!...
I don't think he ACTUALLY meant 0.8,... THAT would be a HUGE gap!.. 😂
I think he meant to say 0.08, and 0.05,... NOT 0.8, and 0.5. ...
I caught that, too. .. 😋
Se ve bien pero hace falta que sea en español traducción
So did you still hear the clicking? I think these bikes are known for having some valve noise. How many of the valves did you actually have to adjust?
Yes, still heard the what I've learned is called the "sewing machine" sound. I check the clearance on both and adjust a little. Nothing was out of spec.
When I wear my helmet the clicking goes away@@badferretrides7586
Thanks. I plan to get this bike next. Your sharing is much appreciated.