Damn! That rabbet to hold the shoe plate! Never in a thousand years would I come up with that! I was trying to figure how to make one of these jigs with a minimum of modification to the planer, and here it is in one simple innovation! Thank you!
For now, I think this is the jig for the hand planer. The other jigs are good but I don't think they are suitable for real-world thicknessing or repeated fine adjustments. Please give it a try. Thank you!
Great job, the console is much easier to manufacture than others of this type for the plane. I especially liked the use of thin-walled aluminum corners.
Just found your video and after seeing many others, have bought the plans from your store. Hope to be making this soon! 👍 Have subscribed to your channel also.
hi Just found your channel and it's very usefull, simple jigs and projects. Already registered in the store also, but it wasn't easy in japanese. i'm going to buy this one and a few others that i've alrerady saw there. Thanks for the sharing.
I added a note about registration to the description. Please don't mind the email in Japanese that you receive after you place your order. It was unnecessary information for those of you from overseas.
i really like this idea! I have been trying to figure out how to even out pallet boards without spending $400 on a thickness planer. i think this will do the trick!
Im litterally in the same boat, just started hoarding pallets. Now stuck on planing everything, made some stuff without planing it but knowing how things should be planed I just cant get satisfied with things.. Ive looked up a few jigs, but this one seems the best, also no modifications on the tool.
I just discovered your channel, and I'm really enjoying your videos. Do you have a preference for flattening boards with this jig and a planer, or with the router jig you made?
I made both jigs for those who doesn't have a jointer or planer. Difference is that hand planer jig is faster than the router jig to work with. But the router jig results in better surface and uniform thickness. That's when I looked at it with very strict eyes, though. Oh, hand planer jig is much much easier to make if you don't mind having the rather minor tool. Stationary planer is my first choice in the way I work. If it is a figured wood and has many tearout after planing, I will clean it up with the router jig. I hand plane all materials after the planer so few rough spots is fine for common woods. Thank you for your comment. Hope you have fun with both jigs.
Interesting. But… the mounting of the hand planer is a bit misconcepted. In neutral position (0mm) the two sections of the base plate are at same hight as the blade with no removal of material. When adjusting the removal, the front base lifts. Both bases have different height and the blade can trimm the surface to the level of the second base. So in first place, Laying the base plates on the aluminum Profil contradicts the functionality of a hand planner as it is designed to glide on the base to late over the surface. Adjusting the removal will tilt the whole planner in this construction. The blade gets low enough to remove wood, but will only work for a few mm then you have to adjust the jig height or workpeace height again. It would be better to use the housing to fix the planner in perfect horizontal orientation with the front base independent moving. This way you can use the planner like normal but the jig acts as a stop if desired depth is reached. You can remove as much as you want without readjusting.
Can you show us your jig? Of course, you don't drill holes or modify the planer itself, do you? This jig can only cut about 1.5mm at a time, but you can easily adjust the depth by using shims. It can do the work of a jointer and planer. It makes one side flat and then cuts the other side parallel. The aim is to make multiple pieces of material the same thickness. The jig that uses an electric hand planer is not a stationary machines, so it takes a little longer to work. But it works. If you have worked with a hand plane, you will understand this jig better. I am currently working on a video of making a shelf using this jig. Don't miss it!
Liked this idea and was looking forward to building it. However, disappointed that the plans are not free even though your description would allude to this specific plans being free.
That might be a misleading expression. I corrected the description. Thank you for pointing it out. And it is a snack price. Please support us so we can run faster and make something useful for every woodworker.
The plans are literally a couple of pounds/dollars/euros, all you're doing here is paying a nominal sum for the creators time and knowledge. IMHO I don't usually pay for much but was so impressed with the video i bought the download and the plans are clear and precise. Well worth the small outlay.
You need to understand how the bottom plate and blade of the planer move. The plane body is fixed at a certain height with two rails, and when you turn the knob to make a deeper cut, the front base plate moves up, allowing the blade to drop lower than the rails. The blade must be lowered to a level greater than the thickness of the aluminum part. It's about 1mm. That way, the back rail won't get in the way when you cut the material. It took me some time and experimentation to understand this mechanism as well. This idea may have never been tried before. Although it's not a perfect jig, it can solve some of the difficulties of using an electric planer. Thank you for asking.
Nice Job. May be with a couple of vertical slots on each planner support, the support could be adjusted vertically instead of adding spacers between cuts.
Thank you for your suggestion. Please let me know as I don't quite understand. How do you adjust the height? Also, is it possible to repeatedly adjust the height by 0.3mm (0.0118inch)?
@@kikikumastudioPut threaded inserts into the bottom of the feet. Screw bolts into the threaded inserts and you just turn the bolts to raise it or lower it on each corner.
So you need to adjust the four bolts in the corners each time. It would be difficult to move the support parallel to the planer blade and make the 0.3 mm adjustment not once or twice but repeatedly. Using spacers may be a silly idea, but surely you can adjust the support to the desired height. Using bolts might work for other jigs. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing the idea anyway!
I have a question, in my planer, the bottom sole in the back and the front sole in the front end exactly where the plastic body ends. In your planer there is extra metal coming from the front and back. How do I adjust for my planer?
I bought the plans, I’ll still make the jig. Mine is a Bosch electric hand planer. Just wondering if you have any ideas on how to modify the planer so I can attach it to the rails securely?
This jig can be used with your planer. Since there is no protruding part on the front or back, you cannot attach a holding material to the rail as it was designed 08:58. You don't need the holding piece when flattening the board, but you should have a problem when lifting the planer and moving it around with the jig. So what I can suggest is to use the screw holes for accessories on the side of the planer. You can make parts from aluminum or brass sheets. Cut a groove in the rail crosspiece and insert the part. Hope this solves the problem.
Added a free drawing for Bosch planers at kikikuma store. This is a reference drawing of a holding parts for a model without front and rear overhangs. It is a rough idea as I have not actually tried it. I hope it will be of some help. Please let me know if it worked. Thank you!
@@kikikumastudio thank you, I will look it over and see if it works. Or I make something different to work. I made the body wider (about two times, using a 10mm aluminium bar to reinforce the plywood), made the body longer as well for my specific case. I adjusted all the measurements from your drawings to my specific measure. Hopefully this weekend or the next week I will build and test this.
Thank you for your interest. You can find the drawing in the kikikuma store. There is a link in the description. Prices are shown in Japanese yen. Please search for currency converters online to convert to your currency. Actual charge will vary depending on your payment method, PayPal and credit card fees. Just for your information 440 yen is currently $2.92.
I am sharing the videos so you can make your own. Drawings can be downloaded. This jig is easy and there is nothing difficult about it. Please try it and enjoy!
Damn!
That rabbet to hold the shoe plate! Never in a thousand years would I come up with that! I was trying to figure how to make one of these jigs with a minimum of modification to the planer, and here it is in one simple innovation! Thank you!
For now, I think this is the jig for the hand planer. The other jigs are good but I don't think they are suitable for real-world thicknessing or repeated fine adjustments. Please give it a try. Thank you!
Great job, the console is much easier to manufacture than others of this type for the plane. I especially liked the use of thin-walled aluminum corners.
Thank you for your comment. Yes! it's much easier and no modification to your planer. I am glad you noticed the details too.
Just found your video and after seeing many others, have bought the plans from your store. Hope to be making this soon! 👍
Have subscribed to your channel also.
Thank you for your support. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I wish I saw this a long time ago great job and thank you so much
Thank you! Let’s have fun with what we have now.
hi
Just found your channel and it's very usefull, simple jigs and projects.
Already registered in the store also, but it wasn't easy in japanese.
i'm going to buy this one and a few others that i've alrerady saw there.
Thanks for the sharing.
Thanks a lot! Sorry for the inconvenience. The registration process appears to be in Japanese. I'm thinking of a way to explain it to you all.
I added a note about registration to the description. Please don't mind the email in Japanese that you receive after you place your order. It was unnecessary information for those of you from overseas.
Amazing idea, so simple, so elegant
Glad you liked it. Thank you!
i really like this idea! I have been trying to figure out how to even out pallet boards without spending $400 on a thickness planer. i think this will do the trick!
Thank you for your comment. Please let me know if it works!
Im litterally in the same boat, just started hoarding pallets. Now stuck on planing everything, made some stuff without planing it but knowing how things should be planed I just cant get satisfied with things.. Ive looked up a few jigs, but this one seems the best, also no modifications on the tool.
I just discovered your channel, and I'm really enjoying your videos. Do you have a preference for flattening boards with this jig and a planer, or with the router jig you made?
I made both jigs for those who doesn't have a jointer or planer. Difference is that hand planer jig is faster than the router jig to work with. But the router jig results in better surface and uniform thickness. That's when I looked at it with very strict eyes, though. Oh, hand planer jig is much much easier to make if you don't mind having the rather minor tool.
Stationary planer is my first choice in the way I work. If it is a figured wood and has many tearout after planing, I will clean it up with the router jig. I hand plane all materials after the planer so few rough spots is fine for common woods.
Thank you for your comment. Hope you have fun with both jigs.
@@kikikumastudio Thank you for taking the time to answer with such detail. I appreciate it!
Interesting. But… the mounting of the hand planer is a bit misconcepted. In neutral position (0mm) the two sections of the base plate are at same hight as the blade with no removal of material. When adjusting the removal, the front base lifts. Both bases have different height and the blade can trimm the surface to the level of the second base.
So in first place, Laying the base plates on the aluminum Profil contradicts the functionality of a hand planner as it is designed to glide on the base to late over the surface.
Adjusting the removal will tilt the whole planner in this construction. The blade gets low enough to remove wood, but will only work for a few mm then you have to adjust the jig height or workpeace height again.
It would be better to use the housing to fix the planner in perfect horizontal orientation with the front base independent moving. This way you can use the planner like normal but the jig acts as a stop if desired depth is reached. You can remove as much as you want without readjusting.
Can you show us your jig? Of course, you don't drill holes or modify the planer itself, do you?
This jig can only cut about 1.5mm at a time, but you can easily adjust the depth by using shims. It can do the work of a jointer and planer. It makes one side flat and then cuts the other side parallel. The aim is to make multiple pieces of material the same thickness. The jig that uses an electric hand planer is not a stationary machines, so it takes a little longer to work. But it works. If you have worked with a hand plane, you will understand this jig better. I am currently working on a video of making a shelf using this jig. Don't miss it!
Liked this idea and was looking forward to building it. However, disappointed that the plans are not free even though your description would allude to this specific plans being free.
That might be a misleading expression. I corrected the description. Thank you for pointing it out. And it is a snack price. Please support us so we can run faster and make something useful for every woodworker.
The plans are literally a couple of pounds/dollars/euros, all you're doing here is paying a nominal sum for the creators time and knowledge. IMHO
I don't usually pay for much but was so impressed with the video i bought the download and the plans are clear and precise. Well worth the small outlay.
以前、電動カンナの治具があったらいいな〜とコメントしたものです。
これを待っていました！！
細かい微調整などで作成するのが私の技量では少し難しいかもしれませんが必ず作ってみます！
いや〜この治具をしっかり完成させて材を削るのが楽しみです！
質問なのですが削る材を材料固定ブロックに固定するときにネジを使用されていましたが、
材にネジ穴を開けたくない場合は、固定できれば両面テープなので固定してもいいのでしょうか？
ブログのほうも拝見いたしました。
カンナ本体に穴を開けない、大変な金属加工などを簡単にする、その他の所もなかなか大変だったとのことで、
この動画を見れてとても嬉しです。
制作用図面もダウンロードさせていただきました。
素敵な動画をありがとうございました。
コメントありがとうございます。気に入ってもらえて良かったです！難しいところはないと思いますよ。調整は後からできますから。本体を組む時に捻れだけ気を付けてください。荒取りの状態で平面出しをする前提ですが、もし既に寸法に仕上がった材料で穴を開けたくないのなら両面テープも有りですね。ただ、ズレることもあるからそこは注意。切削深さも少なくして、一度に削るのは0.3mm程度にしておいた方がいいかもしれません。試してみてください。次のお題を楽しみにしています。
@@kikikumastudio
お答えいただきありがとうございました！
ちなみになんですがダウンロードした製作図についてお伺いしたいことがある場合、お答えしていただくことは可能でしょうか？
またその場合はこちらではなく運営されているブログのコメント欄でしたほうがよろしいでしょうか？
もちろんOKです！ブログの方で質問いただけると読者の皆さんと共有できるので助かります。お返事の内容が長くなる場合は記事として編集します。よろしくお願いします。
@@kikikumastudio 承知いたしました。
ありがとうございます！
hello I find this planer template really great Thank you for sharing👍😉
Thank you for your comment. Glad you liked it!
how does the planed board not block on the aluminum rail placed at the back of the planer?
You need to understand how the bottom plate and blade of the planer move. The plane body is fixed at a certain height with two rails, and when you turn the knob to make a deeper cut, the front base plate moves up, allowing the blade to drop lower than the rails. The blade must be lowered to a level greater than the thickness of the aluminum part. It's about 1mm. That way, the back rail won't get in the way when you cut the material. It took me some time and experimentation to understand this mechanism as well. This idea may have never been tried before. Although it's not a perfect jig, it can solve some of the difficulties of using an electric planer. Thank you for asking.
Most impressive, on my “to make” list.
Thanks a lot. Please try it!
Nice Job. May be with a couple of vertical slots on each planner support, the support could be adjusted vertically instead of adding spacers between cuts.
Thank you for your suggestion. Please let me know as I don't quite understand. How do you adjust the height? Also, is it possible to repeatedly adjust the height by 0.3mm (0.0118inch)?
@@kikikumastudioPut threaded inserts into the bottom of the feet. Screw bolts into the threaded inserts and you just turn the bolts to raise it or lower it on each corner.
So you need to adjust the four bolts in the corners each time. It would be difficult to move the support parallel to the planer blade and make the 0.3 mm adjustment not once or twice but repeatedly. Using spacers may be a silly idea, but surely you can adjust the support to the desired height. Using bolts might work for other jigs. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing the idea anyway!
I have a question, in my planer, the bottom sole in the back and the front sole in the front end exactly where the plastic body ends. In your planer there is extra metal coming from the front and back. How do I adjust for my planer?
I bought the plans, I’ll still make the jig. Mine is a Bosch electric hand planer. Just wondering if you have any ideas on how to modify the planer so I can attach it to the rails securely?
This jig can be used with your planer. Since there is no protruding part on the front or back, you cannot attach a holding material to the rail as it was designed 08:58. You don't need the holding piece when flattening the board, but you should have a problem when lifting the planer and moving it around with the jig.
So what I can suggest is to use the screw holes for accessories on the side of the planer. You can make parts from aluminum or brass sheets. Cut a groove in the rail crosspiece and insert the part.
Hope this solves the problem.
Added a free drawing for Bosch planers at kikikuma store. This is a reference drawing of a holding parts for a model without front and rear overhangs. It is a rough idea as I have not actually tried it. I hope it will be of some help. Please let me know if it worked. Thank you!
@@kikikumastudio thank you, I will look it over and see if it works. Or I make something different to work. I made the body wider (about two times, using a 10mm aluminium bar to reinforce the plywood), made the body longer as well for my specific case. I adjusted all the measurements from your drawings to my specific measure. Hopefully this weekend or the next week I will build and test this.
how much do the plans for this cost.Thanks
Thank you for your interest. You can find the drawing in the kikikuma store. There is a link in the description. Prices are shown in Japanese yen. Please search for currency converters online to convert to your currency. Actual charge will vary depending on your payment method, PayPal and credit card fees. Just for your information 440 yen is currently $2.92.
perfect I bought it last night.£2.42 in pounds sterling. Great value thanks@@kikikumastudio
Thank you for your support!
動画でお使いの電気カンナはマキタだとおもいますが型番を教えていただけますか？
makita 1911BSPになります。30年以上前のモデル、未だにカタログにのってます。板矧ぎした大きめの板をカンナがけするのならオススメですが、一般用途なら82mm幅の方がいいかなと思います。
ご回答をいただきありがとうございます。82㎜の中古電器館を探して動画でご紹介されているカンナ代を作ってみようと缶がています。
82mmの方がいっぱいありますし、使いやすいのではと思います。どのメーカでもいいのですが、最大切削深さが2mm以上であることと、前後端に底板の出っ張りのある機種がこの治具には向いてます。是非試してみてください。
アドバイスありがとうございます。 特殊な実験用で薄い板（A4サイズくらいの大きさ）を0.5㎜ずつ削る必要があるため1900Bを選んでみようと思います。用途が限られていることとマキタのパーツがどこでも手に入るのでオーバーホールをして専用加工機を作る予定です。 ※木工になるのかはわかりませんが最終的には樹脂加工などを施し音響関係の実験が目的です。
如何刨寛板的左側再刨相鄰的右側時, 能刨的平坦。
An electric planer can be moved left and right on aluminum rails, so it can flatten even wide materials.
Sorry but I don't quite understand the meaning of your question. Is it a question about this jig? This jig can't work without rails.
May I entrust you to make one?@@kikikumastudio
I am sharing the videos so you can make your own. Drawings can be downloaded. This jig is easy and there is nothing difficult about it. Please try it and enjoy!
こんにちは、材料の寸法はありますか?
治具を作るための部材の寸法は図面にあります。図面をダウンロードください。概要欄にリンクがあります。この治具図面は有料ですが、無料の図面もいっぱいあります。活用くださいね。