excellent video. I bought one of these a couple of years ago, but haven't used it yet because I couldn't find a good set of instructions on how to use it. I feel confident that I can try it now. Thanks!
Good tip on aligning the jig. I will try that. I have been using a board between the two spindles but finding space to use my speed square is a challenge on my PM3520c.
Hmm, been thinking about getting one of these. I do have an old Klein jig, and a Baxter one, and trying to figure out if there are any advantages to this one. For sure, keeping the jig on dead center/parallel to the lathe appears to be an issue. I think the old ones used to flip up to a vertical position so you could check the fit without having to move anything else. I did find a way to 'time' the threads when cutting them so you don't have to adjust one box a full 1/16 inch/one full turn on one box, and maybe 1/4 or less of a turn on the next. I use a stop block, kind of like what I use when making identical cuts on the cross cut set up on my table saw. Need a spacer between the cutter and the lid and base. I cut lid threads first, then the base. Spacer is about 1/8 or slightly less thick. Slide the jig up till you have that ideal gap. Oh, pencil line where the grain matches up. I start the lid/recess with the pencil line at 12 o'clock, cut to finish. Use the same spacer when cutting the base/tenon. I start with the line at about 10:30. Gets it pretty close every time. Don't understand why some one doesn't make a jig so the banjo stays in line and you don't have to fuss with it..... I won't make boxes much over about 1 1/4 inch diameter. Had one fall off my table at a show once and it was in the grass for 2 days. The lid would come off, but it had really moved. I would expect problems with a box that size. Oh, Bonnie used Bulls Eye spray lacquer for her inside finish. The smell from it is gone in a minute or three.
Reed, if you have a Baxter, you do not want to get this. No advantage I can see other than price. Unless you need to buy the add on sphere cutter attachment which I do not think you need. Lining it up can be fussy.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Some times my curiosity gets the better of me. I want to see how it works, and figure out if I can make an 'auto square' set up for it so you don't have to put a square on the banjo every time you move it... I hoped they would be at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium, but he wasn't. I do like his lapping fluid.
Does nobody talk about moisture content in the wood when making boxes, or movement is the wood which both will destroy the fit of the lid, this is a very important consideration in box making.
That's awesome! Looks like our tool! Ours restores/fix threads for any thread pitch, inch, metric & pipe. Please let us know if you want to review our products :)
Hi. would it be possible to inform the reference of this cutter that was used to make the thread in these pieces of wood ??? I can't find any tool similar to this one here in Brazil.
There are now four different insert/shaft combinations you can buy - 16, 10, 8, and 6 TPI. Mine is the 16 TPI which the ChefWare Kits recommends for diameters in the 2" range. The more coarse threads are recommended as follows: (10 TPI) for larger threaded lids, (8 TPI) for custom lathe spindle jigs like a wooden face plate or vacuum chuck, (6 TPI) for making an extra large bolt/nut project. I have been relatively happy with the 16 TPI, but I make only small boxes. If I had it to do over again I'd probably buy the 10 TPI setup.
Were you using a 16 or 10 TPI jig in this video. The thread depth is different for each one. I am trying to relate that to the .06" you make the male OD larger then the female ID?
Nice video. Thanks. I'm just wondering why you do the base first. Common wisdom on the internet seems to do the top first. Then if you screw up the second cut on the bottom you can easily redo the threads, unlike the top that would be a write off.
That's a good point. For me, it's just preference, because if I mess up the threads on the base I would consider it a write-off anyway. The grain wouldn't match up well enough for me to continue if I had to cot off more material. I see your point though. Maybe I'll change how I do these now. Thank you!
excellent video. I bought one of these a couple of years ago, but haven't used it yet because I couldn't find a good set of instructions on how to use it. I feel confident that I can try it now. Thanks!
Good tip on aligning the jig. I will try that. I have been using a board between the two spindles but finding space to use my speed square is a challenge on my PM3520c.
Great job, thanks for sharing
Very informative video! thanks so much!
excellent young man...
Thank you!
First time I see something like this. Almost like machining a gear.
Dope ❤️
I need one of these... pretty cool setup
Hmm, been thinking about getting one of these. I do have an old Klein jig, and a Baxter one, and trying to figure out if there are any advantages to this one. For sure, keeping the jig on dead center/parallel to the lathe appears to be an issue. I think the old ones used to flip up to a vertical position so you could check the fit without having to move anything else.
I did find a way to 'time' the threads when cutting them so you don't have to adjust one box a full 1/16 inch/one full turn on one box, and maybe 1/4 or less of a turn on the next. I use a stop block, kind of like what I use when making identical cuts on the cross cut set up on my table saw. Need a spacer between the cutter and the lid and base. I cut lid threads first, then the base. Spacer is about 1/8 or slightly less thick. Slide the jig up till you have that ideal gap. Oh, pencil line where the grain matches up. I start the lid/recess with the pencil line at 12 o'clock, cut to finish. Use the same spacer when cutting the base/tenon. I start with the line at about 10:30. Gets it pretty close every time.
Don't understand why some one doesn't make a jig so the banjo stays in line and you don't have to fuss with it.....
I won't make boxes much over about 1 1/4 inch diameter. Had one fall off my table at a show once and it was in the grass for 2 days. The lid would come off, but it had really moved. I would expect problems with a box that size.
Oh, Bonnie used Bulls Eye spray lacquer for her inside finish. The smell from it is gone in a minute or three.
Reed, if you have a Baxter, you do not want to get this. No advantage I can see other than price. Unless you need to buy the add on sphere cutter attachment which I do not think you need. Lining it up can be fussy.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Some times my curiosity gets the better of me. I want to see how it works, and figure out if I can make an 'auto square' set up for it so you don't have to put a square on the banjo every time you move it... I hoped they would be at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium, but he wasn't. I do like his lapping fluid.
I’d love to be able to thread my boxes but I’m sure this cost a fortune. I’ll save up for it. Thank you for sharing.
Yes, it is definitely expensive, but if you're going to make a lot of threaded items, it is worth it (to me, at least).
Does nobody talk about moisture content in the wood when making boxes, or movement is the wood which both will destroy the fit of the lid, this is a very important consideration in box making.
Excellent point! I'll try to address that in my next video. Thanks for your input.
That's awesome! Looks like our tool! Ours restores/fix threads for any thread pitch, inch, metric & pipe. Please let us know if you want to review our products :)
Hi. would it be possible to inform the reference of this cutter that was used to make the thread in these pieces of wood ??? I can't find any tool similar to this one here in Brazil.
I use the EZ Threading Jig from ChefwareKits in England. chefwarekits.com/Threading-Jigs-c9880435
hi a bit late here but what thread pitch does the jig take?
There are now four different insert/shaft combinations you can buy - 16, 10, 8, and 6 TPI. Mine is the 16 TPI which the ChefWare Kits recommends for diameters in the 2" range. The more coarse threads are recommended as follows: (10 TPI) for larger threaded lids, (8 TPI) for custom lathe spindle jigs like a wooden face plate or vacuum chuck, (6 TPI) for making an extra large bolt/nut project. I have been relatively happy with the 16 TPI, but I make only small boxes. If I had it to do over again I'd probably buy the 10 TPI setup.
Were you using a 16 or 10 TPI jig in this video. The thread depth is different for each one. I am trying to relate that to the .06" you make the male OD larger then the female ID?
I use the 16th TPI jig. All of my threaded lids are less than 75 mm diameter so that size works well for me.
Nice video. Thanks. I'm just wondering why you do the base first. Common wisdom on the internet seems to do the top first. Then if you screw up the second cut on the bottom you can easily redo the threads, unlike the top that would be a write off.
That's a good point. For me, it's just preference, because if I mess up the threads on the base I would consider it a write-off anyway. The grain wouldn't match up well enough for me to continue if I had to cot off more material. I see your point though. Maybe I'll change how I do these now. Thank you!
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