*I've owned the 849x going on 6 years **MyBest.Tools** and has never failed me.Smooth runningWell balancedNot too noisyDecent weightControlled RPM's that keeps it's speed no matter pressure*
Good information buddy. Thanks for posting. Keep on providing the information on your detailing experience. Some people may disagree with your comments, but any information is good information. People can use it or not, whatever they choose, but it's good information on your personal experience polishing cars. You've had great experience doing it the way you do and it is great that you pass along the information to others out here detailing cars either professionally or as a weekend enthusiast. We all love to make our cars as perfect as possible.
I tried this technique today and I just use a orbital polisher to buff some cars that I sell at my dealership myself for mainly the fun of doing it And it took out scratches that i could never get out before. Thanks! And subscribed!
Hands down the best videos to have the guys just learning to watch cuz its easy for me to be lazy and give them a DA but when they watch your videos they all want to learn the rotary! Plus i now set my polisher down the way you do way easier lol!
Thanks for the compliment! The rotary has it's learning curves but I noticed, if one never starts, he or she will never learn. So i hope my videos encourage detailers to pick up the rotary and start compounding! lol :)
I always enjoy your videos, they very realistic in regards to the work that's carried out daily. Osren should approach the South African market in the future. Way too many overrated products here that are ridiculously priced and do not meet expectations. Kind Regards
I am a newbie in detailing world, and the only machine I've got is rotary. Your tips seems the best I can found for rotary around the youtube, straight forward and simple explanation. Seems so easy for you to do that, and mine always leaving the buffing trails around the panel....haha....but, I'll keep it try according to your tips now, wish I could get a better result after this, subscribed. Thanks for your great tips bro.
Hi Endra Suryono, thanks fro watching our videos! There's one more factor which I haven't explained on UA-cam regarding rotary and swirls/holograms is the paintwork. With the same machine, same pad, same polish and same paint color, on different paint types you'll get different results. Some paints a harder which is harder to get swirls, some are soft that even with the softest foam you still get swirls. You gotta evaluate the situation and choose the combo accordingly
Thanks much for your advise, I got a better result now, my swirl is gone, just a very light buffing trail which is only visible on strong light source and with spesific angle, it is black color paint, will try softer pad and less agresive compound, wish that would work. When it is success, next target is to remove orange peels on some panels.
do car dealerships cover up swirl marks with temp solution ..I wash new car with foam cannon first time not touch paint then I notice the car was completely covered with swirl marks ? I heard wb40 can be used to cover fine swirl marks
gasdorfic muncher, that's bad. I feel sorry for you. But on the bright side, you have detailing opportunity now XD Car dealership will usually need to "detail" the car prior to delivering it to the customer. If a wrong technique or product combination is used, swirls will be evident, and usually wax or oily polishes will be used to cover the swirls. I've not heard of WD40 used to cover swirls.
Hi +Aaron Mattheus, some DA's have force rotations and it will not stall if you tilt it. Some DA's which are non-forced rotation will stall if you tilt them
Hi Al Pi, thank you for the suggestions. Well I'm kind of thinking about videos for the DAP but, the thing is, the DAP is just too simple and easy to use and nothing much to explain about it haha. In terms of technique that is.
Well you are an expert Sir so it might come easy to you but I believe there are many details you could teach: - When to apply pressure with the DAP - How much pressure to place on the DAP when working with it - How to operate on card hoods with angles - How many hits can you give a panel before you have to change out the foam pad - How long do you need to keep going (left-right/up-down) with your DAP when compounding Just some things out of the top of my head..
Hmm...... you're right, perhaps the questions that you asked are also questions face by many. We should plan a new video on DA usage in accordance to some of the questions you mentioned. Thank you for the suggestion. But before that, here are some quick answers to your questions: - When to apply pressure with the DAP - Pressuring doesn't help in cutting like how it would to a rotary. In fact pressuring will kill the pad and still will not help the situation in terms of more cutting power. The key here is to pressure just enough to keep full contact of pads and working surface. - How much pressure to place on the DAP when working with it - Same answer as abov - How to operate on card hoods with angles - Better to show in a video but, generally the pad should always be parallel to the surface and make sure it's spining. *We have a video, posted a year back on advance tips of DA which sort highlighted the above situations. I'll link it in the next comment box. - How many hits can you give a panel before you have to change out the foam pad - It really depends on the foam pad you use. Different type of pads have different lifespan and different manufacturers make different quality. Best to check this info with the pad supplier - How long do you need to keep going (left-right/up-down) with your DAP when compounding - This will depend on the compound / polish you're using. Some products have a longer working time (oilier) while some products have a shorter working time (dryer). Sometimes the paintwork that you work on will affect the working time of the products being used. But generally the idea is to work until clear or as clear as possible (some products will never dry up but you can notice a different shade of polishing oil residue). Again best to check with your Compound / Polish supplier.
Hi there, I searched UA-cam for help reg. my heavy swirl marks on my 7 year old Ford Focus, black. I found your channel and was impressed by the knowledge and competence shown. I polished the bonnet several passes with a 3M compound (the second strongest) and a foam pad (hard, no name) and later a wool pad (3M buffing pad). I was able to remove 80-90% of the swirls but the deepest ones wouldn’t disappear. I am not sure but somehow I had the impression that the wool pad could even have created new swirls. Is that possible? What would you advise? Is it not possible to remove very deep swirls on black paint? Would It be necessary to wet sand the panel first or should I change the pad/liquid combination? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Regarding the nature of the swirls: You can see them only in direct sunlight and also you need to have an expert eye for car paint. So the normal „consumer“ would hardly see them. You can also see them with a tube light at night if you watch closely but probably not with a spot light. So it’s really not that bad. I am worried that if I go on cutting I might burn through the clear coat or create more swirls or other marks. I am not a super pro but I am also not a beginner. I trade second hand cars and polish most of them myself before promoting them. Thanks a lot, Frank
Hi Frank, love the question. Really shows how involved one is in detailing. I would take extra precaution with an older car, as lifespan of a clear coat would be nearing an end. Detailing is about producing best that you can from the situation, it does not need to be perfect 100% defect-free. In fact, most would also suggest leaving random deep insolated marks alone to preserve clear coat. First identify how deep (or shallow) the defect is. Yes, certain combination will produce its own defect, but general rule is to have defects slowly reduced (ie: from heavy thick swirls to micro swirl, much like sanding a wood, harsh to smooth) I think this video might benefit you: ua-cam.com/video/aUqsomQLKZY/v-deo.html once you are able to identify the type of swirls, all is left to do is to adjust your cutting combination. This might help too: osren.com/blog/how-to-identify-different-types-of-swirls/ If it's deep, perhaps best to leave it out, or if you choose to go after, use a heavier cutting combination. if it's a light swirl/swirls caused by wool, step down on a lighter abrasive and softer pad. If you have a dual action polisher, this would simplify things a lot. if not try watching this video and take note of the techniques: ua-cam.com/video/PcTMDvKQJzA/v-deo.html Hope this helps
@@OSRENOfficial Thanks a lot for the detailed info and the effort. Greatly appreciated. I will stay tuned to your channel and follow your advice. I won’t rush things but rather stepping down to a softer combination and see what happens. As I said, it’s really not that bad, it’s just that I am a perfectionist and was wondering how far I should go. But listening to you makes perfect sense and I wouldn’t wanna risk burning through the clear coat... Once again, thanks and cheers from Thailand.
thanks very helpful video (y) on my rotary when I use the orange foam pad , I can't put the pad flat , I feel like its sticky , should I use contact on a small area only ?
Hey Magic Garage! You should always keep it as flat as possible when you’re working on a flat surface. Or in another words you want maximum contact of the pads and the areas you wanna hit. If it’s sticky, you could use a little more polish to have the working surface lubed. If your pads are tilted on a flat surface, you’re might get more cutting due to higher concentration on that spot. Whether it is required or not, it really depends on the defect you’re trying to remove. Also, were you using a 8” foam pad or 6”? Does it also feel sticky if you were using a different pad other than the orange?
@@OSRENOfficial ,thank you , I think I need to put more polish , I use 6" foam pad , but when I use the black one its good , the problem is just with the orange pad
Hmmm..... maybe the orange is producing too much heat. Maybe too dense as well. Well there are other pads you can give a go and see if it’s friendly to use. For your case, might not be an issue of technique but rather the pad against the paint selection
Hi there! Well the same technique as shown in the video applies to all sizes of pads. For smaller parts, maybe you might want to consider using a 3” or smaller mop?
TRUE professional Henry! LOVE your VERY informative videos! I would love to learn from you in Malaysia but I live quite far away. Greetings from Canada! : ) With your obvious expertise with ROTARY are you able to correct, polish AND finish with a ROTARY only ? Or you do occasionally need to use an orbital like a Rupes? THANKS AGAIN !!!
Hey David Bee! Thanks for watching and liking our videos! Depending on the paintwork it is possible to finish down with Rotary only, but for certain paintwork, i.e. sticky soft or oily paintwork, it is easier to finish down with a DA.
@@OSRENOfficial _ Thanks so much for your VERY prompt reply Henry : ) I HAD a Rupes Mark l LHR 15 but sold it and now thinking about ordering the new Mark lll LHR 15 that JUST came out - I'm figuring that it might be a good "all round" polisher as long as the paint is not completely destroyed. But also thinking about getting the small Flex PE8-4 80 rotary with extensions to do the finicky hard to reach areas with 1, 2 and 3" pads that I cannot do with the LHR 15 I would PREFER to have ONE machine that could do it ALL : ) The Flex PE14-2 150 that can adapt easily to smaller pads with extensions might do but as you know, it is a pure rotary. Do you have any ideas? Many thanks again!
@@davidbee8178 Because there are just so so many types of paintwork out in the market, and if you wanna really get into the micro details of detailing/polishing, It's really quite hard to settle for either one rotary only or one DA only. Well if budget allows, I strongly recommend every detailer to have at least one rotary and one 15mm DA. Brands of rotary or DA isn't the biggest factor, but to compromise on having one and not the other, that makes detailing difficult.
Yes, there should be some polish at the side:) You can either apply directly on the pad or you can spread the polish to the desired area with the rotary turned on before applying pressure to work it.
For every surface's contour there is always an appropriate angle. On a flat surface when polishing away from edges and slopes the pad optimum performance is flat. The pad angle is changed on the fly while polishing to address changes in surface contours.
Hi Davide Petrilli, sorry for the confusion 😅. The important thing is you have to maintain full contact and keep your pads as parallel as possible with the surface So if the panel is absolutely flat, your pads have to be flat. If the surface is rounded or if your polishing the edges, you need to tilt the pad like in the video :) Hope this summary helps 😁
Hi Anthony, for Dual Action Polisher, since its rotation is a free-spinning type, angling it would actually cause it to bog-down, we don't recommend it, instead use a smaller da to do the work.
Nowadays people go to car polishing school, nail polishing school, hair cutting school, shaving school!!! Soon the new generation will go to "Cook and Eat at Home" school?!...LMFAO
Depends on the DA you use, but generally, it’s safe even if you max out . However only tilt a little. Anymore will not damage the car but will damage the shaft of the counterweight
Hi Rombout. On a flat surface, it's best to keep the pad flat on the surface area of polishing. That said, most cars today aren't flat. That's when polishing pad (on rotary) needs to be tilted /angled to have the polishing pad stays in contact with the surface or to prevent edges from burning. On a dual action polisher, this wouldn't make sense as tilting or angling would only stall the polisher. That's where a 3" or a 1/2" da would fit best to handle smaller surface. On rotary, switching a small pad would work as well, or by simply using a smaller area of the pad (which this video is trying to demonstrate) The fundamental is this - pad and working area of surface need to be compatible and complete in terms of contact. Holding flat is correct; tilting is also correct.
when somone asked me why are you tilting the rotary ? You should not do that. I said hey Henry said its all good . They always ask who is this Henry guy! LMAO
Yes OCD Detail our products are for sale on line! Feel free to send us any product inquiry through our website www.osren.com and our sales team will get right back at you!
Great tips and episodes brother 👊🏻! Keep them coming. You deserve 10x more subscribers. I don’t see one, if I missed it my bad. Can you do a headliner video?!
Alfred Hernandez this guy is a legend if you see all his videos. He's making the video to teach newbies and instead of thanking him you are judging him ... he is more than a pro. If he is wearing full jewellery i will still trust him to detail my vehicle
If you're compounding especially, you'll inadvertently be applying more pressure on the edge where the pad is "climbing" the panel, than the flat area and subsequently take more lacquer\paint off - risking burning, thinning or flaking of the top coat on the edge in question.
In the first tip, if you keep your pads flat of the ledge of the bonnet, you’ll most likely to graze the “bottom” part of the ledge (in which is not what we want). So if we tilt the pad a little bit on the right (so the left side is lifted) it will then not graze the “bottom” part of the ledge. Hope this helps ;)
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm control.*
*I've owned the 849x going on 6 years **MyBest.Tools** and has never failed me.Smooth runningWell balancedNot too noisyDecent weightControlled RPM's that keeps it's speed no matter pressure*
Good information buddy. Thanks for posting. Keep on providing the information on your detailing experience. Some people may disagree with your comments, but any information is good information. People can use it or not, whatever they choose, but it's good information on your personal experience polishing cars. You've had great experience doing it the way you do and it is great that you pass along the information to others out here detailing cars either professionally or as a weekend enthusiast. We all love to make our cars as perfect as possible.
Thanks Joe for the words of encouragement :D
I tried this technique today and I just use a orbital polisher to buff some cars that I sell at my dealership myself for mainly the fun of doing it
And it took out scratches that i could never get out before. Thanks! And subscribed!
Hands down the best videos to have the guys just learning to watch cuz its easy for me to be lazy and give them a DA but when they watch your videos they all want to learn the rotary! Plus i now set my polisher down the way you do way easier lol!
Thanks for the compliment! The rotary has it's learning curves but I noticed, if one never starts, he or she will never learn. So i hope my videos encourage detailers to pick up the rotary and start compounding! lol :)
I always enjoy your videos, they very realistic in regards to the work that's carried out daily. Osren should approach the South African market in the future. Way too many overrated products here that are ridiculously priced and do not meet expectations. Kind Regards
Hi Rajiv Sewnandan, thank you for the kind words and suggestions to penetrate the South African market.
I am a newbie in detailing world, and the only machine I've got is rotary. Your tips seems the best I can found for rotary around the youtube, straight forward and simple explanation. Seems so easy for you to do that, and mine always leaving the buffing trails around the panel....haha....but, I'll keep it try according to your tips now, wish I could get a better result after this, subscribed. Thanks for your great tips bro.
Hi Endra Suryono, thanks fro watching our videos! There's one more factor which I haven't explained on UA-cam regarding rotary and swirls/holograms is the paintwork. With the same machine, same pad, same polish and same paint color, on different paint types you'll get different results. Some paints a harder which is harder to get swirls, some are soft that even with the softest foam you still get swirls. You gotta evaluate the situation and choose the combo accordingly
Thanks much for your advise, I got a better result now, my swirl is gone, just a very light buffing trail which is only visible on strong light source and with spesific angle, it is black color paint, will try softer pad and less agresive compound, wish that would work. When it is success, next target is to remove orange peels on some panels.
Do you have a DA Polisher? On soft paint, it's quite difficult to finish without it. Anyway keep up the good work!
do car dealerships cover up swirl marks with temp solution ..I wash new car with foam cannon first time not touch paint then I notice the car was completely covered with swirl marks ? I heard wb40 can be used to cover fine swirl marks
gasdorfic muncher, that's bad. I feel sorry for you. But on the bright side, you have detailing opportunity now XD
Car dealership will usually need to "detail" the car prior to delivering it to the customer. If a wrong technique or product combination is used, swirls will be evident, and usually wax or oily polishes will be used to cover the swirls.
I've not heard of WD40 used to cover swirls.
Very good speaker and very informative. Thank you very much, great videos!
Thanks for the knowledge keep up the Rotary alive. 👍
Nice video man. Thanks
Keep them coming ! Best wishes from Lithuania !
Thanks!
Very good video. Keep making some.
good vid. I'm just starting to find the power of the rotary. keep them coming buddy.
You too, keep on shining!
Great video. Thank you
this is the first video that I found that it explains it well
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for the video. It answered my questions
It's the opposite on DA machines right? Because they stall if you tilt and push them in.
Hi +Aaron Mattheus, some DA's have force rotations and it will not stall if you tilt it. Some DA's which are non-forced rotation will stall if you tilt them
These videos are awesome and very informative ❤❤❤
Hope it has been useful for you!
great video! we use the same techniq for compounding! but i feel the edges of the pads get torned pretty easily! why is it happening?
More pressure equals more heat friction would be my guess.....I e experienced it too
Thank you, Ihave learnt a lot from your tutorials
Glad it helped!
thank you...i've learned something new...
Nice. Good explanations
Tilting is the key for excellent polishing I figured it out late
Cool very informative keep doing your thing bro
You convinced me. Thanks for the video.
Very nice! I hope you will make more DAP videos in the future because nobody uses rotary anymore except the pros and they should know this stuff :)
Hi Al Pi, thank you for the suggestions. Well I'm kind of thinking about videos for the DAP but, the thing is, the DAP is just too simple and easy to use and nothing much to explain about it haha. In terms of technique that is.
Well you are an expert Sir so it might come easy to you but I believe there are many details you could teach:
- When to apply pressure with the DAP
- How much pressure to place on the DAP when working with it
- How to operate on card hoods with angles
- How many hits can you give a panel before you have to change out the foam pad
- How long do you need to keep going (left-right/up-down) with your DAP when compounding
Just some things out of the top of my head..
Hmm...... you're right, perhaps the questions that you asked are also questions face by many. We should plan a new video on DA usage in accordance to some of the questions you mentioned. Thank you for the suggestion. But before that, here are some quick answers to your questions:
- When to apply pressure with the DAP - Pressuring doesn't help in cutting like how it would to a rotary. In fact pressuring will kill the pad and still will not help the situation in terms of more cutting power. The key here is to pressure just enough to keep full contact of pads and working surface.
- How much pressure to place on the DAP when working with it - Same answer as abov
- How to operate on card hoods with angles - Better to show in a video but, generally the pad should always be parallel to the surface and make sure it's spining.
*We have a video, posted a year back on advance tips of DA which sort highlighted the above situations. I'll link it in the next comment box.
- How many hits can you give a panel before you have to change out the foam pad - It really depends on the foam pad you use. Different type of pads have different lifespan and different manufacturers make different quality. Best to check this info with the pad supplier
- How long do you need to keep going (left-right/up-down) with your DAP when compounding - This will depend on the compound / polish you're using. Some products have a longer working time (oilier) while some products have a shorter working time (dryer). Sometimes the paintwork that you work on will affect the working time of the products being used. But generally the idea is to work until clear or as clear as possible (some products will never dry up but you can notice a different shade of polishing oil residue). Again best to check with your Compound / Polish supplier.
ua-cam.com/video/sZ1NrKgbua4/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for your answers, you are too kind! Will check the channel for new videos ! :)
Very helpful! Thank you!
Hi there,
I searched UA-cam for help reg. my heavy swirl marks on my 7 year old Ford Focus, black. I found your channel and was impressed by the knowledge and competence shown.
I polished the bonnet several passes with a 3M compound (the second strongest) and a foam pad (hard, no name) and later a wool pad (3M buffing pad). I was able to remove 80-90% of the swirls but the deepest ones wouldn’t disappear. I am not sure but somehow I had the impression that the wool pad could even have created new swirls. Is that possible?
What would you advise? Is it not possible to remove very deep swirls on black paint?
Would It be necessary to wet sand the panel first or should I change the pad/liquid combination? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Regarding the nature of the swirls:
You can see them only in direct sunlight and also you need to have an expert eye for car paint. So the normal „consumer“ would hardly see them. You can also see them with a tube light at night if you watch closely but probably not with a spot light. So it’s really not that bad. I am worried that if I go on cutting I might burn through the clear coat or create more swirls or other marks. I am not a super pro but I am also not a beginner. I trade second hand cars and polish most of them myself before promoting them.
Thanks a lot, Frank
Hi Frank, love the question. Really shows how involved one is in detailing.
I would take extra precaution with an older car, as lifespan of a clear coat would be nearing an end. Detailing is about producing best that you can from the situation, it does not need to be perfect 100% defect-free. In fact, most would also suggest leaving random deep insolated marks alone to preserve clear coat.
First identify how deep (or shallow) the defect is. Yes, certain combination will produce its own defect, but general rule is to have defects slowly reduced (ie: from heavy thick swirls to micro swirl, much like sanding a wood, harsh to smooth)
I think this video might benefit you: ua-cam.com/video/aUqsomQLKZY/v-deo.html
once you are able to identify the type of swirls, all is left to do is to adjust your cutting combination.
This might help too: osren.com/blog/how-to-identify-different-types-of-swirls/
If it's deep, perhaps best to leave it out, or if you choose to go after, use a heavier cutting combination.
if it's a light swirl/swirls caused by wool, step down on a lighter abrasive and softer pad. If you have a dual action polisher, this would simplify things a lot. if not try watching this video and take note of the techniques: ua-cam.com/video/PcTMDvKQJzA/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
@@OSRENOfficial
Thanks a lot for the detailed info and the effort. Greatly appreciated.
I will stay tuned to your channel and follow your advice. I won’t rush things but rather stepping down to a softer combination and see what happens.
As I said, it’s really not that bad, it’s just that I am a perfectionist and was wondering how far I should go. But listening to you makes perfect sense and I wouldn’t wanna risk burning through the clear coat...
Once again, thanks and cheers from Thailand.
Great tips!,
5 years ago don’t have Dual Action polishing machine in singapore?
Common sense when using a rotary really. Stops over heating of edges and clear coat damage. Good video.
Nic explained ❤
thanks very helpful video (y)
on my rotary when I use the orange foam pad , I can't put the pad flat , I feel like its sticky , should I use contact on a small area only ?
Hey Magic Garage! You should always keep it as flat as possible when you’re working on a flat surface. Or in another words you want maximum contact of the pads and the areas you wanna hit. If it’s sticky, you could use a little more polish to have the working surface lubed. If your pads are tilted on a flat surface, you’re might get more cutting due to higher concentration on that spot. Whether it is required or not, it really depends on the defect you’re trying to remove.
Also, were you using a 8” foam pad or 6”? Does it also feel sticky if you were using a different pad other than the orange?
@@OSRENOfficial ,thank you , I think I need to put more polish , I use 6" foam pad , but when I use the black one its good , the problem is just with the orange pad
Hmmm..... maybe the orange is producing too much heat. Maybe too dense as well. Well there are other pads you can give a go and see if it’s friendly to use. For your case, might not be an issue of technique but rather the pad against the paint selection
Great info!!!
Nicely explained thanks brooo
Most welcome
Thkq for making sure a great video.
GL listening to this guy! :)
How do you polish edges using a 4" mop on a smaller part without burning? Thanks
Hi there! Well the same technique as shown in the video applies to all sizes of pads. For smaller parts, maybe you might want to consider using a 3” or smaller mop?
TRUE professional Henry! LOVE your VERY informative videos! I would love to learn from you in Malaysia but I live quite far away. Greetings from Canada! : ) With your obvious expertise with ROTARY are you able to correct, polish AND finish with a ROTARY only ? Or you do occasionally need to use an orbital like a Rupes? THANKS AGAIN !!!
Hey David Bee! Thanks for watching and liking our videos! Depending on the paintwork it is possible to finish down with Rotary only, but for certain paintwork, i.e. sticky soft or oily paintwork, it is easier to finish down with a DA.
@@OSRENOfficial _ Thanks so much for your VERY prompt reply Henry : ) I HAD a Rupes Mark l LHR 15 but sold it and now thinking about ordering the new Mark lll LHR 15 that JUST came out - I'm figuring that it might be a good "all round" polisher as long as the paint is not completely destroyed. But also thinking about getting the small Flex PE8-4 80 rotary with extensions to do the finicky hard to reach areas with 1, 2 and 3" pads that I cannot do with the LHR 15 I would PREFER to have ONE machine that could do it ALL : ) The Flex PE14-2 150 that can adapt easily to smaller pads with extensions might do but as you know, it is a pure rotary. Do you have any ideas? Many thanks again!
@@davidbee8178 Because there are just so so many types of paintwork out in the market, and if you wanna really get into the micro details of detailing/polishing, It's really quite hard to settle for either one rotary only or one DA only. Well if budget allows, I strongly recommend every detailer to have at least one rotary and one 15mm DA. Brands of rotary or DA isn't the biggest factor, but to compromise on having one and not the other, that makes detailing difficult.
Appreciate the info, thanks!
Do I also need to apply some polishing fluid to the side of the pad as well when I need to polish the carpaint with the side of the polishing pad?
Yes, there should be some polish at the side:)
You can either apply directly on the pad or you can spread the polish to the desired area with the rotary turned on before applying pressure to work it.
great videos, keep them coming
very good info, thanks
For every surface's contour there is always an appropriate angle. On a flat surface when polishing away from edges and slopes the pad optimum performance is flat. The pad angle is changed on the fly while polishing to address changes in surface contours.
Very nice
hello .. is it better to put the pad flat or to put the pad on one side?
Hi Davide Petrilli, sorry for the confusion 😅. The important thing is you have to maintain full contact and keep your pads as parallel as possible with the surface
So if the panel is absolutely flat, your pads have to be flat. If the surface is rounded or if your polishing the edges, you need to tilt the pad like in the video :)
Hope this summary helps 😁
Can u apply this approach when using a dual action rotary?
Hi Anthony, for Dual Action Polisher, since its rotation is a free-spinning type, angling it would actually cause it to bog-down, we don't recommend it, instead use a smaller da to do the work.
This whole video hinges on the assumption that the viewer knows the difference between a rotary and a DA.
Nice vid tho, OSREN!
yoplaitmajor I’ll tell you the truth until I read what you said I didn’t know there was a difference
Nice tip! Thank you.....very much
As a beginner detailer, is the DA polisher safe for us?
Much safer than the rotary, and easier to start off! Haha
100% Safe
How about the wool pads same way as the foam that was showed in the video?
Not recommended. Unlike foams, wool pads are less forgiving when compared. Foam pads have more "cushioning" buffer thanks to its soft structure.
Just take a smaller inch to do the edges. By turn it that will you can get even faster burning
Hey man, thanks for the tips!
You are most welcome! Stay tune, we are showcasing a new video very soon! :D
Nowadays people go to car polishing school, nail polishing school, hair cutting school, shaving school!!! Soon the new generation will go to "Cook and Eat at Home" school?!...LMFAO
excellent
What's name of your pad foam for 1rst step sir
Hi Lucky Prince! The pad in the video is the Maroon Cutting Foam Pad
Do we have to tilt in dual action polisher also?
Yes, same with DA. It will help to reach edges and it will increase the cut level by a little
@@OSRENOfficial what about the speed while tilting do we have to reduce speed to prevent paint peeling at edges?
Depends on the DA you use, but generally, it’s safe even if you max out . However only tilt a little. Anymore will not damage the car but will damage the shaft of the counterweight
@@OSRENOfficial thanks I have just purchased vonroc DA polisher and trying compound and polish my own car to remove swirl mark.
Why do all detailers still hammer on holding the machines flat, is that the difference with hand Vs power tools?
Hi Rombout. On a flat surface, it's best to keep the pad flat on the surface area of polishing. That said, most cars today aren't flat. That's when polishing pad (on rotary) needs to be tilted /angled to have the polishing pad stays in contact with the surface or to prevent edges from burning.
On a dual action polisher, this wouldn't make sense as tilting or angling would only stall the polisher. That's where a 3" or a 1/2" da would fit best to handle smaller surface. On rotary, switching a small pad would work as well, or by simply using a smaller area of the pad (which this video is trying to demonstrate)
The fundamental is this - pad and working area of surface need to be compatible and complete in terms of contact. Holding flat is correct; tilting is also correct.
Brilliant
when somone asked me why are you tilting the rotary ? You should not do that. I said hey Henry said its all good . They always ask who is this Henry guy! LMAO
Owh man, looks like I'm not so famous after all.... Lol
What pad was that you was using?
Hi Ty! I used a maroon cutting 6” rotary foam pad
Turn on the road tree?
Are your products for sale on line ?
Yes OCD Detail our products are for sale on line! Feel free to send us any product inquiry through our website www.osren.com and our sales team will get right back at you!
thank you sir
THANKS,
Tks man.
Terbaik bos
Ini pakai pad poles merk apa?
Hi Andrian, maaf sebab tak berapa faham soalan you. Poles merk?
Great tips and episodes brother 👊🏻!
Keep them coming.
You deserve 10x more subscribers.
I don’t see one, if I missed it my bad.
Can you do a headliner video?!
Hey @devlnvest, thanks for watching and commenting! Sorry but I didn’t quite get you there. What do you mean by a headliner video?
You might want to lose the watch and belt while detailing, bad habits for sure. 😄
Alfred Hernandez this guy is a legend if you see all his videos. He's making the video to teach newbies and instead of thanking him you are judging him ... he is more than a pro. If he is wearing full jewellery i will still trust him to detail my vehicle
This video is not on safety habits but pad positioning for demonstration.
If the metal is rounded you have to tilt it anyway.
why does it matter if the pad slightly touches the part he is referring to?
Paint is thinnest at the edges...
If you're compounding especially, you'll inadvertently be applying more pressure on the edge where the pad is "climbing" the panel, than the flat area and subsequently take more lacquer\paint off - risking burning, thinning or flaking of the top coat on the edge in question.
Right at the the 4 min mark is why i dont tilt the pad...
Gutes Video !
can I Have tour contact sir
Hi Muhammad Saad, our contacts are in this link, kindly check it out. Thanks!
www.osren.com/contacts
That goes against all the expert in detailing.
This wouldn’t work if you’re using a DA polisher, this is 4 a rotary polisher
5:08 That was so crazy, nobody does that!
I don't understand the first demo.
In the first tip, if you keep your pads flat of the ledge of the bonnet, you’ll most likely to graze the “bottom” part of the ledge (in which is not what we want). So if we tilt the pad a little bit on the right (so the left side is lifted) it will then not graze the “bottom” part of the ledge. Hope this helps ;)
@@OSRENOfficial ledge? You mean the side in the hood?
Ah yea. Something like that. Assuming the ledge is a C shape. If the pads are not tilted it will hit the middle and bottom of the C
🎺😊👍
first ! :D