hey guys i happened on my audi a6 2.5 auto 1999. the bet way i did my with no extra money spent going grages and bullshit. you need to take the MAF sensor out, go to your local car shop and get AMPSOIL foam cleaner or any other carb cleaner. clean the sensor let it dry for about 15 mins or so, then come the most important bit spray the cleaner in your air intake inlet which is connect to your engine NOT YOUR AIR FILTER BOX, its where the butterfly flap is IF YOU HAVE ONE. not a problem if you havent you can still do this, right spray half a can and leave it for 15 mins or so. then connect everything back and start your car. you will see a lot of smoke coming out the car but do not worry its cleaned your car and the idle. take the car for a good run about 5-10 miles. this will get rid of all your problems. thank you.
Just throwing this out there for anyone who hasn't found a fix. My 2012 TT is starting to have the same symptoms (higher rpm than regular at idle and driving). Car went to limp mode due to 1 bad ignition coil. Started to happen after I replaced the bad ignition coil. Waiting for my coilpack and spark plugs to come in so i can replace all of them. Car mileage is over 135,000, so it's due time for replacement. Hopefully that resolves the issue.
Had the same problem on my S4, and when the coils are breaking down and not broke the will not give you any engines lights or codes until they are fully shot, the car will have symptoms of breaking down but will still run. An easy way of checking is removing the coils and visually looking at the plugs, if the covered in black the cars is burning rich and all coils and plugs should be changed. Cracked housing in the coils allows moisture to enter and there for you will have an off rpm reading.
Man, I have the same exact crap with the rpm on 900 instead of 800. After watching this video I finally understood what the hell was happening. Thanks!
Coils are Most Commonly Caused By Poor Electrical Connections, Wire Harness Breaks or Fouled Spark Plugs.New Connectors Should be Replaced When replacing Ignition Coils, Especially If There Has Been More Than One Coil Failure. A Loose Connection (Caused by Engine Vibration, a Cracked Connector Housing, Cracked or Broken Wire Insulation) Can Cause a Voltage Spike Which May Not Only Destroy or Burn Up the Ignition Coil, But Also the Neighboring Coil Because the Harness Wires are Bridged Together.
I see you posted 9 months ago have you managed to resolve it yet ? having same problem with my 2008 a3 I am having the same problem this guy said his was ignition coil. I had already changed all 4 spark plugs before watching this video and didn't fix it. I am going to look into the ignition coil.
I have a 2011 S5 4.2 V8. Mine coded P0307 (seventh cylinder misfire). I haven’t looked to see if it dips but I noticed that it shook at an idle and stuttered on acceleration. If I push the accelerator it sputters at 4K RPM. Any suggestions? I will look for a cracked coil.
+Steven Reyes - No CEL came on while all this was happening. There was no considerable noise coming from the engine, apart from the lowered idle noise when the RPMs dipped. Also, the car would vibrate a little when the tachometer dropped. To find out which cylinder is affected, you can either take it to a mechanic, or perform a test yourself: unplug the ignition coil for each cylinder, and observe the behavior of the engine to see which one affects it the most.
mine is worst sometimes stalling and coughing in idle,i havent fixed mine yet! maybe caused by MAF and rubber hose or Idle stabilizing valve should be checked,or the coil, distributor, sparks and wires,the ECU, so .......each specific part wich is involved in the ignition and engine starting
Mine has it even worse than that no check engine code comes up for it and sometimes it will stall out for how bad it gets. I changed the MAF sensor and replaced the purge valve (n80 valve) on it to no avail
My vehicle's engine does the same sometimes. It'll also dip to 400rpms when coming to a stop some times. I was told to see if my IAC (idle air control) valve is gunked up. It should be on the intake or on the throttlebody.
i got the exact same problem, sometimes happens when just started, sometimes when engine is hot, sometimes it runs perfectly.. its very weird.. dropping from 900rpm to 600 every 10 seconds.. i got an audi tt 2007.. and i've been to the dealer 2 times to fix it, and they cant seem to find what it is
Hmmm... yeah I think I need an engine tensioner but the part is $300.00 Meh... I hope that fixes my problem. The engine idles at 800 rpms but there is a shaking kind of feeling coming from the motor... any ideas anyone? I think its the Engine Tensioner but im not quite sure
Hi all, I have Audi A4 2007 (2.0), I'm facing a problem that is when I start driving from 0 in a road that is going up.... it moves very slow then drive smoothly after that ,,,, its like I need to push more on the gasoline to let it move,,, at this point the RPM is around 2.5 and 3 ! and if I have a full load and the road is high ,,, it wont goes up or move! any idea whats the problem ? By the way no check engine light and nothing wrong with the computer.
I know this was two years ago but wondering if you figured out what the issue was? Car is golden after you to 40 mps. but between 30-40 mps it dips way down and I have to lay on the gas to get it to act normal. Changed so many parts and still the same thing. Only code is P0456 and I already changed the MAF, the purge valve and few other things relating ot this topic. I'm ready to hit a wall lol.
my VW jetta 1.8t (2001) does the same but like a whole lot more and sometime i can even feel like the engine is just gonna die. sometimes it does it some other times it does not and i have no idea what it could be. its exactly same as you. mine is manual but it can happen when i simply start my car in the morning to go to school or work or when i stop at a red light. anyone knows what the problem could be??
It could be the MAF (massive air flow) sensor that's a little dirty... Or the h02 sensor,'I got the same problem , I recommend you guys to check your computers it's easy, fast and really cheap. Hope this helps
Thanks for the suggestion. The actual fix was replacing the ignition coil on the 3rd cylinder, which broke in half.
Wow, reader suggestions were all over the place from battery to MAF sensor. Luckily the OP posted his resolution and still useful in 2017, thanks.
hey guys i happened on my audi a6 2.5 auto 1999. the bet way i did my with no extra money spent going grages and bullshit. you need to take the MAF sensor out, go to your local car shop and get AMPSOIL foam cleaner or any other carb cleaner. clean the sensor let it dry for about 15 mins or so, then come the most important bit spray the cleaner in your air intake inlet which is connect to your engine NOT YOUR AIR FILTER BOX, its where the butterfly flap is IF YOU HAVE ONE. not a problem if you havent you can still do this, right spray half a can and leave it for 15 mins or so. then connect everything back and start your car. you will see a lot of smoke coming out the car but do not worry its cleaned your car and the idle. take the car for a good run about 5-10 miles. this will get rid of all your problems. thank you.
2.5??? did you mean 2.8?
Just throwing this out there for anyone who hasn't found a fix.
My 2012 TT is starting to have the same symptoms (higher rpm than regular at idle and driving).
Car went to limp mode due to 1 bad ignition coil.
Started to happen after I replaced the bad ignition coil. Waiting for my coilpack and spark plugs to come in so i can replace all of them.
Car mileage is over 135,000, so it's due time for replacement.
Hopefully that resolves the issue.
Had the same problem on my S4, and when the coils are breaking down and not broke the will not give you any engines lights or codes until they are fully shot, the car will have symptoms of breaking down but will still run. An easy way of checking is removing the coils and visually looking at the plugs, if the covered in black the cars is burning rich and all coils and plugs should be changed. Cracked housing in the coils allows moisture to enter and there for you will have an off rpm reading.
why did u put "FIXED" in the title ? U didn't fix anything, just showed the problem. WTF?
Man, I have the same exact crap with the rpm on 900 instead of 800. After watching this video I finally understood what the hell was happening. Thanks!
had problem for months did everything. then changed the n122 power output stage module. right above the intake. found on ebay for $44 promise it works
Nice job
Which one is that one
Coils are Most Commonly Caused By Poor Electrical Connections, Wire Harness Breaks or Fouled Spark Plugs.New Connectors Should be Replaced When replacing Ignition Coils, Especially If There Has Been More Than One Coil Failure. A Loose Connection (Caused by Engine Vibration, a Cracked Connector Housing, Cracked or Broken Wire Insulation) Can Cause a Voltage Spike Which May Not Only Destroy or Burn Up the Ignition Coil, But Also the Neighboring Coil Because the Harness Wires are Bridged Together.
Do you have any pictures of the broken or cracked coil pack?
A bad cool would not make it dip, it would just run rough as hell because one of your cylinders has no spark.
Google "broken ignition coil" and look at the images. It's on the first page. The coil itself is cracked in half...that's what happened to mine.
I’m also facing the same problem…any suggestion for fixing?
I see you posted 9 months ago have you managed to resolve it yet ?
having same problem with my 2008 a3
I am having the same problem this guy said his was ignition coil. I had already changed all 4 spark plugs before watching this video and didn't fix it. I am going to look into the ignition coil.
you just need to clean the throttle body 🤦♂️ thank me later
Hmm. Ive seen this before on mine.. have you tried replacing the flux capacitor by chance? That is where I would atart!
Ahhhhhh yes the fluctuation capacitor!
The idle air control valve probably needs to be cleaned. It may have carbon build up.
@@ytubesub8514 that's ridiculous.. Flux capacitor, 100%
@@THEOFFICIALJakeFromStateFarm Probably so or maybe it's the nuclear de regulator. I think these are run off of aircraft carrier technology.
I have a 2011 S5 4.2 V8. Mine coded P0307 (seventh cylinder misfire).
I haven’t looked to see if it dips but I noticed that it shook at an idle and stuttered on acceleration. If I push the accelerator it sputters at 4K RPM.
Any suggestions? I will look for a cracked coil.
We're any Check Engine Lights coming up?
We're you hearing a little noise when it would dip ? How did you know what cylinder ?
+Steven Reyes - No CEL came on while all this was happening. There was no considerable noise coming from the engine, apart from the lowered idle noise when the RPMs dipped. Also, the car would vibrate a little when the tachometer dropped.
To find out which cylinder is affected, you can either take it to a mechanic, or perform a test yourself: unplug the ignition coil for each cylinder, and observe the behavior of the engine to see which one affects it the most.
I am having same problem now in my A4 2013 model . How did u fix it. ??
Same here, did you resolve it?
I have a4 2013 as well how did you fix it?
anyone found the problem? for me it's a little worse and the car moves and sometimes the engine stops (automatic wtf)????
mine is worst sometimes stalling and coughing in idle,i havent fixed mine yet!
maybe caused by MAF and rubber hose or Idle stabilizing valve should be checked,or the coil, distributor, sparks and wires,the ECU, so .......each specific part wich is involved in the ignition and engine starting
Mine has it even worse than that no check engine code comes up for it and sometimes it will stall out for how bad it gets. I changed the MAF sensor and replaced the purge valve (n80 valve) on it to no avail
Jordan D'Agostino, did you manage to solve your problem yet? I have the same situation now. Please share if you have. Thanks
did you found out what was it?
Cracked ignition coil
Read the video description.
that is not a issue, but if you change the oil filter, the oil, and the air filter, for sure the engine will not become so "nervous"...
Try turning your air con off and then see if it still does it
not helpful
with me battery went dead over night? think? then suddenly workd o.k..then low revs playd up? need ideas
iac valve? clean it first if it stops thats ur problem!
@dustatios Please see my update in the video description.
My vehicle's engine does the same sometimes. It'll also dip to 400rpms when coming to a stop some times. I was told to see if my IAC (idle air control) valve is gunked up.
It should be on the intake or on the throttlebody.
Did you ever figure out a fix?
i got the exact same problem, sometimes happens when just started, sometimes when engine is hot, sometimes it runs perfectly.. its very weird.. dropping from 900rpm to 600 every 10 seconds.. i got an audi tt 2007..
and i've been to the dealer 2 times to fix it, and they cant seem to find what it is
Did you ever fix this problem? That's what I have now.
Did u fix it , i am having same problem for my audi 2013
@@kedelboys it was a turbo hose or something if I remember correctly
Your first sign that something was off was that it was idling at 800. Our cars should idle at 900.
i dont see or hear anything...
same as my audi a4 1998 model need support how to fix it
just clean your throttle body
Hmmm... yeah I think I need an engine tensioner but the part is $300.00 Meh... I hope that fixes my problem. The engine idles at 800 rpms but there is a shaking kind of feeling coming from the motor... any ideas anyone? I think its the Engine Tensioner but im not quite sure
Hi all, I have Audi A4 2007 (2.0), I'm facing a problem that is when I start driving from 0 in a road that is going up.... it moves very slow then drive smoothly after that ,,,, its like I need to push more on the gasoline to let it move,,, at this point the RPM is around 2.5 and 3 ! and if I have a full load and the road is high ,,, it wont goes up or move! any idea whats the problem ? By the way no check engine light and nothing wrong with the computer.
I know this was two years ago but wondering if you figured out what the issue was? Car is golden after you to 40 mps. but between 30-40 mps it dips way down and I have to lay on the gas to get it to act normal. Changed so many parts and still the same thing. Only code is P0456 and I already changed the MAF, the purge valve and few other things relating ot this topic. I'm ready to hit a wall lol.
May have to look into a new high or low pressure fuel pump or throttle positioning sensor
my VW jetta 1.8t (2001) does the same but like a whole lot more and sometime i can even feel like the engine is just gonna die. sometimes it does it some other times it does not and i have no idea what it could be. its exactly same as you. mine is manual but it can happen when i simply start my car in the morning to go to school or work or when i stop at a red light. anyone knows what the problem could be??
Did you find what's wrong? Currently my 2015 Jetta 1.8t is doing the same thing
@@andriyfediv9181 hey bud. Did u find out what the problem was?
vacum leaks
You need a new engine tensioner. I'm currently trying to fix this problem on my 2001 2.8 a4
It could be the MAF (massive air flow) sensor that's a little dirty... Or the h02 sensor,'I got the same problem , I recommend you guys to check your computers it's easy, fast and really cheap. Hope this helps
You have a misfire