I work in the parts department at a dealership (not Honda) and this gave me a lot of confidence to do this all on my own and not have to bug anyone else for help. Thanks!
Currently doing this outside Dominoes after my shift had 5 minutes left at harbor freight to buy special funnel. Thanks for vid and thanks for saving another Honda 😀
as where you have the burping funnel now it is higher than the heater core and by filling to the top can overflow. Mid fill should be sufficient and having the heater open to the max and revving the engine to 2K RPM for 2-5mins will help push the air bubble out of the system into teh funnel.
Thanks for the video… I’ve gotta help a friend with his Honda civic. He’s never heard of bleeding or burping the cooling system. He ordered that same funnel. I’ve always just took the top heater core hose off and added coolant until it comes out there with the car on a slight hill… Some cars even have a bleeder valve at the highest point of the cooling system. I think my Mazda RX-7 did but I can’t remember exactly. That funnel will definitely come in handy though…👍🏼
I see you used green coolant in this video. I know the Hondas recommend the blue coolant. My car also has green coolant in it but I'm fixing to do a radiator replacement soon and I'll be switching it to the blue coolant.
Green universal coolant works, this car was trash and is already gone. I would use whatever you feel best putting in. If I had a nice Civic, I would use blue as well. Thanks for watching!
Honda coolant is basically a phosphated OAT type coolant like most Asian carmakers use. There are many aftermarket brands for Asian coolants available,not just the dealer. Zerex,Recochem,Peak OET,Beck Arnley,Aisin, Pentosin,etc. I use Toyota Pink in my Honda,same coolant formula,different color. I prefer Pink color. No problems.
Great vids! After you had replaced the thermostat in your previous vid, I assume you had refilled the radiator before you did this vid to burp the system?
After watching your vid, I purchased an OEM thermostat and blue coolant (from a local Honda dealership) and that spill-free funnel (from AutoZone) and successfully replaced it; the temp gauge is running steady now...thanks again!
Nice video! Would like to point out that Asian coolant is the way to go ! To make this video fully accurate for that Civic I would check the overflow tank 💁🏽♂️
I let the engine run for over 40min at a slight incline, even rev the engine a few times, and maintained the radiator fluid topped up, but I couldn't get the lower radiator hose to heat up to open up the thermostat! Air bubbles did continue to come out for at least the first 30 plus min, although slower/less towards the end. The top hose was very hot, but the lower hose remained cold to the touch the whole time. Any suggestions?
On my civic, New Rad , heater core and thermostat. Bought this funnel because after 2 hours of trying to burp it manually I still couldn't get it too. Put the funnel on and thought wow, look at the bubbles, this things is the cats ass. Well, about another 2-3 hours, many bubbles later until basically none, I can get up to half on the temp gauge, top and bottom rad house hot, one line going in to the heater core so so warm, the other one is still cold. Tried front end up in the air, tried revving over and over, took it for a drive , still unable to get prestone flowing through the new core. Soon gonna set a match to it
Sounds like water pump, blocked hose. For anyone reading, turn on heater, squeeze hoses. Make sure system is pressurized..... run it around over some speed bumps (get the air out.
I see you have the overflow open. U didn’t fill that 1st, just straight to radiator? We put a new rad/therm in car. And not knowing about the air, just put coolant in it. Now I’m having problems. I can fill the car up before go to work, drive 45 minutes to work and before leave have to put more in it. It doesn’t run hot. Seems I’m losing it while I’m driving. I see no visible leaks under the car.. should I drain the radiator and start over with what you have demonstrated?
The overflow is just an overflow tank, not a part of the pressurized system to be bled. Bleed the system from the radiator top, once that's bled put the cap back on the radiator and top off the overflow. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. Might Google around to see where all of your coolant hoses are and check them
These d17a1 are a nightmare for cooling problems. I can drive mine on highway for 30 mins as soon as i get off highway and stop for 2 to 3 mins and starting going again the car temp starts to go above normal and then cools back down after i start to drives again 35mph and up. Going to try and bleed it and then check for gases in coolant im leaning towards a headgasket issue.
Can a faulty thermostat cause bubbles to keep coming? Burped my system today but the bubbles kept coming. My first thought was head gasket but after feeling both radiator hoses the one that leads to the thermostat isn’t hot whatsoever. What do you think?
The thermostat won't make bubbles appear. That means there is air in the system somehow. If the thermostat is opening, your radiator and upper and lower hoses will be hot. Hope this helps you get there.
when do you turn on the heat? after the car warmed up or just from the jump? and can the heat be blowing anywhere(i see you got yours on windshield defrost) and do you have to open the bleeding screw? seen that elsewhere
Take off your radiator cap if the coolant isn’t circulating it’s your water pump . Also run your heat to open the thermostat. If that doesn’t work you have a blockage somewhere in the lines . I had to rebuild but it solved the problem
If I don't bleed the system can it cause the overflow tank to bubble up and not return coolant to the radiator or is it head gasket? I changed my radiator and thermostat in my 05 civic, now I'm having issues, temp gauge fluctuates and my fan will not come on (temp sensor maybe or pcm for the fan). A mechanic told me these hondas 01-05 don't need bleeding and there common for the head gasket, which I'm aware of. I don't want assume the worst. I spoke to three honest mechanics without them looking at the car . 1 mechanic said I have an air lock and to try bleed it and the other two said head gasket. I'm not sure what to do.
@@RiggsGarageI have this same problem to but the heater was working great while still overheating for a while and then recently when I turn the heat on so my car wouldn’t overheat it just blew cold air sometimes when I turn on the heater. Replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor. But still overheating. The radiator fan doesn’t kick on either. So my theory is it’s the fan or the coolant system need to burp/ bleed. Thought?
I feel like i have a problem, i have an CIVIC V-TEC SE SPORT 1.6, and i filled the radiactor up and the coolant resevoir today and went for a drive, i came back parked the car and rechecked the coolant levels in the reservoir and it was empty, i wait around 5 minutes and the resevoir was full to how i had to before, any reason why it did that cauee im baffled
You really don't need a special funnel...just get one that has the spout that fits snug into the radiator opening. I just did this on a 2002 honda that had a small head gasket leak and it continued to bubble. Used K-seal and it sealed it up, no more bubbles.
I've got the same funnel with the same car and as I was letting it idle after the thermostat opened up, I got a geyser of water shoot up through the funnel. I had to put the plug in or I would've lost too much antifreeze. Any ideas as to why it did that?
Probably not. They're usually underlying issues causing overheating. Thermostat, clogged radiator, low coolant, head gasket is common on these cars too.
@@RiggsGarage, yeah, that’s what usually happens. Not sure what what’s special about Honda’s blue coolant or how well it plays with others, but I have learned my lesson on mixing coolant types in ford, dodge and GM!! In any of those, If it says use a certain thing, then you better do it or pay the expensive consequences. Enjoyed your video, though. The most comprehensive one on Honda’s I’ve seen. Even better than the one ETCG put out way back. Thinking of subscribing.
after 13 years of refilling my 2003 civic with cheap old walmart antifreeze that car still doing great ( a couple accidents made me replace radiators). Maybe the honda brand antifreeze keeps that engine running cooler, who knows. But burping is the way to go, you can add some distilled water too and the old civic will be happy if its just to top it off and burp it. 'nuf said.
@@fomoco300k Honda coolant is a P-OAT coolant. Most aftermarket brands offer it. Zerex Asian Vehicle,Recochem,Peak OET,Pentosin,BeckArnley. I use Zerex Asian Vehicle Pink in my Honda. Same coolant different color.
Is it a threaded cap? If it is and it's a pressurized overflow, that is an issue because the cooling system needs to be pressurized. I don't have that year of civic so I can't go look at mine
Hello. I reach you from Turkey. I've been using this tool for 8 years but I don't understand how the Coolant Reservoir works. How the radiator draws back fluid from the Coolant Reservoir. The expansion tank inlet is too low and there is no engine in it. Here's how water returns to the system. I couldn't understand the working principle. Thansk for everything.
I’m having problems with my 03 civic ex. I replaced my battery after it died, and after I installed the new battery that’s when things got strange. Started my car and realized that my temp gauge wasn’t working. Used jumper and tested the gauge it worked. Replaced cooling fan switch, ECT, and thermostat. Temp gauge still isn’t working, and now it seems as if coolant isn’t circulating as well, my bottom rad hose never got coolant in it while running the car bleeding the system. Any ideas on what it could be? Also can you bleed the coolant system with only the cap off the reservoir?
@@RiggsGarage I ended up figuring it out, had some wonky issues because my cluster wasn’t working/communicating with my ecm. As well as the drive circuit going out as well. Got a used cluster and it solved everything as of now.
Haha it was missing on this car, it was a piece of junk from one of my family members. That cap is not needed technically because it's not a pressurized piece of the system, just an overflow
Hi I recently replaced my thermostat and my radiator as well as two caps and my system is too over pressurized I was wondering what caused this and if you could help me thank you
@@RiggsGarage ok so it doesn’t overheat but after driving it for a while it will push some fluid into the overfill and not suck it back into the radiator it also stays pressurized for hours I have drove it then parked it and let it sit for fourteen hours and then come back take the radiator cap off and it blow coolant everywhere and I’m unsure why help pls
Maybe your rad cap has too high a pressure rating. Caps are designed with a spring to allow coolant to bypass the cap seal and flow into the reservoir when they reach a certain PSI. Research what your car requires for a PSI rating and verify yours.
That's not normal. Could have a leak or possibly head gasket is allowing exhaust into the coolant. I'd recommend pressure testing your system and checking for head gasket leaks
If pressure tests pass, the heater core may be plugged with gunk. If your car smells a little rotten in the morning, that is a tell tale sign. You can unplug the coolant hoses from heater core and use a connector to reconnect the hos es directly together with it. Bleed the system again and test and see what happens after its bled overtime time
if your car overheated recently and it still runs with apparant normalcy, don't be fooled it sounds like a head gasket leaking enough to put constant gases into your cooling passages. after an overheat and a couple trips where it seemed still normal but no, the longer I drove it the more bubbles would come out of the radiator filler with the cap off. I pressurized the cylinders and cyl # 3 was pushing coolant out the radiator filler tube. more clear it couldnt be! and it was still running. I removed the cylinder head; had it resurfaced and worked the valves and seats to non-leak status and put it all back together. after 2 and 1/2 years later it competes with lumborginnis out on the highway .. I'm proud of my civic! an 18 year old car doing like a new one, that is quality. (09/26/2021).
@@pistolp9809did you ever end up fixing it? If so how. Having the same thing happen to me after replacing thermostat. Not a head gasket leak as none of my fluids are mixing and fluid levels are staying the same and the bubble don’t increase when revving. I’m thinking it’s a exhaust leak
@@RiggsGarage fans do turn on, seems like the thermostat is opening, lower hose finally heated up but I've still got quite a decent amount of bubbles. I'm going to try flushing the heater core and see if that helps. It seems like there's a lot of residue from the old equipment present and I made the mistake of assuming I didn't need to flush when I replaced everything. Edit: temp gauge never went past where it normally sits (just below the icon, about 1/3)
It varies depending on the car, but after the car is fully warm and the thermostat is open I just let it run for 10 to 30 minutes with that funnel on there and just let all the air work its way out
Are you referring to the funnel? It comes with multiple different radiator cap adapters and you just need to figure out which one fits your car. The kit has a lot of them and so far they fit everything I've worked on.
I work in the parts department at a dealership (not Honda) and this gave me a lot of confidence to do this all on my own and not have to bug anyone else for help. Thanks!
Good to hear! Glad you could get it done. Thanks for watching
Currently doing this outside Dominoes after my shift had 5 minutes left at harbor freight to buy special funnel. Thanks for vid and thanks for saving another Honda 😀
I hope it went well, keep it on the road!
Just did a radiator job on my 2001 Honda Civic. This video really helped me understand how to bleed it (since it doesn't have a bleeder valve).
as where you have the burping funnel now it is higher than the heater core and by filling to the top can overflow. Mid fill should be sufficient and having the heater open to the max and revving the engine to 2K RPM for 2-5mins will help push the air bubble out of the system into teh funnel.
Thanks for the video… I’ve gotta help a friend with his Honda civic. He’s never heard of bleeding or burping the cooling system. He ordered that same funnel. I’ve always just took the top heater core hose off and added coolant until it comes out there with the car on a slight hill… Some cars even have a bleeder valve at the highest point of the cooling system. I think my Mazda RX-7 did but I can’t remember exactly. That funnel will definitely come in handy though…👍🏼
Awesome, hopefully it all goes well. Thanks for watching
I see you used green coolant in this video. I know the Hondas recommend the blue coolant. My car also has green coolant in it but I'm fixing to do a radiator replacement soon and I'll be switching it to the blue coolant.
Green universal coolant works, this car was trash and is already gone. I would use whatever you feel best putting in. If I had a nice Civic, I would use blue as well. Thanks for watching!
I wanna drain mine too but if I wanna put blue coolant do I got to change the radiator to do so
@@RiggsGarage Did it turn out to be more then the thermostat and radiator?
Honda coolant is basically a phosphated OAT type coolant like most Asian carmakers use. There are many aftermarket brands for Asian coolants available,not just the dealer. Zerex,Recochem,Peak OET,Beck Arnley,Aisin, Pentosin,etc. I use Toyota Pink in my Honda,same coolant formula,different color. I prefer Pink color. No problems.
As long as is organic maybe change it more often like every year
Great video! How long should I run her for because I’ve had her going for 15 mins now and the bubbles are free and far between but still coming up
15 should be good, longer is fine too for peace of mind.
Great vids! After you had replaced the thermostat in your previous vid, I assume you had refilled the radiator before you did this vid to burp the system?
After watching your vid, I purchased an OEM thermostat and blue coolant (from a local Honda dealership) and that spill-free funnel (from AutoZone) and successfully replaced it; the temp gauge is running steady now...thanks again!
Nice video! Would like to point out that Asian coolant is the way to go ! To make this video fully accurate for that Civic I would check the overflow tank 💁🏽♂️
I agree on the Asian coolant, however this car has already gone to its final resting place lol, I used what I had. Thanks for watching!
I use Toyota Pink coolant in my Honda. Same coolant type though. Also,there are many aftermarket brands that offer P-OAT coolant.
mlo
THank you you have saved another HONDA
You're welcome, glad to hear
Really good video. Very helpful.
Thanks, John!
I let the engine run for over 40min at a slight incline, even rev the engine a few times, and maintained the radiator fluid topped up, but I couldn't get the lower radiator hose to heat up to open up the thermostat! Air bubbles did continue to come out for at least the first 30 plus min, although slower/less towards the end. The top hose was very hot, but the lower hose remained cold to the touch the whole time. Any suggestions?
Thanks for providing the coolant height issue
You are welcome, thank you for watching
On my civic, New Rad , heater core and thermostat. Bought this funnel because after 2 hours of trying to burp it manually I still couldn't get it too. Put the funnel on and thought wow, look at the bubbles, this things is the cats ass. Well, about another 2-3 hours, many bubbles later until basically none, I can get up to half on the temp gauge, top and bottom rad house hot, one line going in to the heater core so so warm, the other one is still cold. Tried front end up in the air, tried revving over and over, took it for a drive , still unable to get prestone flowing through the new core. Soon gonna set a match to it
Did you turn the heat on? That should get it to circulate through
Sounds like water pump, blocked hose.
For anyone reading, turn on heater, squeeze hoses. Make sure system is pressurized..... run it around over some speed bumps (get the air out.
I see you have the overflow open. U didn’t fill that 1st, just straight to radiator? We put a new rad/therm in car. And not knowing about the air, just put coolant in it. Now I’m having problems. I can fill the car up before go to work, drive 45 minutes to work and before leave have to put more in it. It doesn’t run hot. Seems I’m losing it while I’m driving. I see no visible leaks under the car.. should I drain the radiator and start over with what you have demonstrated?
The overflow is just an overflow tank, not a part of the pressurized system to be bled. Bleed the system from the radiator top, once that's bled put the cap back on the radiator and top off the overflow. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. Might Google around to see where all of your coolant hoses are and check them
Does the coolant come out of the radiator to the engine throught the lower hose, since the thermostat is attached to the lower hose?
Was there already coolant in the radiator before you started adding it into the funnel?
I believe there was, it's been a few years
Great video... thanks.. did mine worked well and got the bleed kit at Oreillys ... world well
Thank you for watching! Glad to know O'Reilly has them
These d17a1 are a nightmare for cooling problems. I can drive mine on highway for 30 mins as soon as i get off highway and stop for 2 to 3 mins and starting going again the car temp starts to go above normal and then cools back down after i start to drives again 35mph and up. Going to try and bleed it and then check for gases in coolant im leaning towards a headgasket issue.
Yeah they are. I don't recommend them to people honestly. Hopefully you find the issue and get it fixed up
Can a faulty thermostat cause bubbles to keep coming? Burped my system today but the bubbles kept coming. My first thought was head gasket but after feeling both radiator hoses the one that leads to the thermostat isn’t hot whatsoever. What do you think?
The thermostat won't make bubbles appear. That means there is air in the system somehow. If the thermostat is opening, your radiator and upper and lower hoses will be hot. Hope this helps you get there.
when do you turn on the heat? after the car warmed up or just from the jump? and can the heat be blowing anywhere(i see you got yours on windshield defrost) and do you have to open the bleeding screw? seen that elsewhere
Coolant goes through a second radiator inside the car (called the heater core), a fan blows over this and gives you heat in the car.
just replaced thermostat and my lower hose is stayin cool with no pressure, top hose is getting hot but no pressure as well. any advice?
Take off your radiator cap if the coolant isn’t circulating it’s your water pump . Also run your heat to open the thermostat. If that doesn’t work you have a blockage somewhere in the lines . I had to rebuild but it solved the problem
If I don't bleed the system can it cause the overflow tank to bubble up and not return coolant to the radiator or is it head gasket? I changed my radiator and thermostat in my 05 civic, now I'm having issues, temp gauge fluctuates and my fan will not come on (temp sensor maybe or pcm for the fan).
A mechanic told me these hondas 01-05 don't need bleeding and there common for the head gasket, which I'm aware of. I don't want assume the worst. I spoke to three honest mechanics without them looking at the car . 1 mechanic said I have an air lock and to try bleed it and the other two said head gasket. I'm not sure what to do.
Dang
Yeah, they are good at killing head gaskets. Definitely bleed it to rule air in the cooling system out
I'm replacing my tstat too. My heat worked great than stopped, than started getting cool than warm again now it just stay cool and overheats
Definitely check for leaks first, that's how a heater usually acts when your system is leaking / low too.
@@RiggsGarageI have this same problem to but the heater was working great while still overheating for a while and then recently when I turn the heat on so my car wouldn’t overheat it just blew cold air sometimes when I turn on the heater. Replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor. But still overheating. The radiator fan doesn’t kick on either. So my theory is it’s the fan or the coolant system need to burp/ bleed. Thought?
@@RiggsGaragealso did the combustion test. The blue fluid stayed blue so I think we’re good on that part.
I feel like i have a problem, i have an CIVIC V-TEC SE SPORT 1.6, and i filled the radiactor up and the coolant resevoir today and went for a drive, i came back parked the car and rechecked the coolant levels in the reservoir and it was empty, i wait around 5 minutes and the resevoir was full to how i had to before, any reason why it did that cauee im baffled
You really don't need a special funnel...just get one that has the spout that fits snug into the radiator opening. I just did this on a 2002 honda that had a small head gasket leak and it continued to bubble. Used K-seal and it sealed it up, no more bubbles.
I've got the same funnel with the same car and as I was letting it idle after the thermostat opened up, I got a geyser of water shoot up through the funnel. I had to put the plug in or I would've lost too much antifreeze. Any ideas as to why it did that?
Without seeing it, I'd guess it was a huge pocket of trapped air escaping?
Would doing this method fix any overheating issues in the 2003 civic
Probably not. They're usually underlying issues causing overheating. Thermostat, clogged radiator, low coolant, head gasket is common on these cars too.
Is it necessary to bleed the coolant if the radiator level was low and I topped it off (I have a 2003 civic si hatch)?
Depends on how low, couldn't hurt. Now the main question to answer here is why is it low???
@@RiggsGarage that is a good question lol. It’s been sitting for about 3 years, but I haven’t seen any coolant leaks since I started it back up.
@@jadizzle check it out and be careful man Don't toast your engine lol
@@RiggsGarage do you know how much coolant I need to drain and replace completely?
How do you get the funnel cap to seal on to the radiator opening?
Should I be worried about oil starvation running the engine when is in an incline? ex. When it's on ramps or jacked up.
No, that is not a significant enough angle to uncover the oil pickup. Should be just fine 👍👍
@@RiggsGarage Thank you.
Can you drive up a hill,mountain
Do you not add anything to the overflow?
Fill it to the full line
So the overflow cap should be open?
It can be open or closed when bleeding coolant system, overflow does not hold pressure
Good example of how and why except for the incorrect coolant. Need the Smurf juice for a Honda.
Yeah this thing had been filled with green universal coolant over and over as it leaked. It will survive without magical Honda juices 🤣
@@RiggsGarage, yeah, that’s what usually happens. Not sure what what’s special about Honda’s blue coolant or how well it plays with others, but I have learned my lesson on mixing coolant types in ford, dodge and GM!! In any of those, If it says use a certain thing, then you better do it or pay the expensive consequences.
Enjoyed your video, though. The most comprehensive one on Honda’s I’ve seen. Even better than the one ETCG put out way back.
Thinking of subscribing.
@@fomoco300k thank you! Yeah I'm thinking of dexcool in the GM cars, destroying cooling systems when mixed haha
after 13 years of refilling my 2003 civic with cheap old walmart antifreeze that car still doing great ( a couple accidents made me replace radiators). Maybe the honda brand antifreeze keeps that engine running cooler, who knows. But burping is the way to go, you can add some distilled water too and the old civic will be happy if its just to top it off and burp it. 'nuf said.
@@fomoco300k Honda coolant is a P-OAT coolant. Most aftermarket brands offer it. Zerex Asian Vehicle,Recochem,Peak OET,Pentosin,BeckArnley. I use Zerex Asian Vehicle Pink in my Honda. Same coolant different color.
Hey man why is there no cap on the resolvuire? Mine doesn’t have a cap and I wonder if that can be an issue?
Is it a threaded cap? If it is and it's a pressurized overflow, that is an issue because the cooling system needs to be pressurized. I don't have that year of civic so I can't go look at mine
I have a 2001 Honda Civic. and yes it is a Pressurized system, it needs the Resevior/overflow cap.( little white Threaded one.)
Hello. I reach you from Turkey. I've been using this tool for 8 years but I don't understand how the Coolant Reservoir works. How the radiator draws back fluid from the Coolant Reservoir. The expansion tank inlet is too low and there is no engine in it. Here's how water returns to the system. I couldn't understand the working principle. Thansk for everything.
When coolant temperature drops, the fluid shrinks causing a vacuum, that sucks it in the same as hot pushes it out
I’m having problems with my 03 civic ex. I replaced my battery after it died, and after I installed the new battery that’s when things got strange. Started my car and realized that my temp gauge wasn’t working. Used jumper and tested the gauge it worked. Replaced cooling fan switch, ECT, and thermostat. Temp gauge still isn’t working, and now it seems as if coolant isn’t circulating as well, my bottom rad hose never got coolant in it while running the car bleeding the system. Any ideas on what it could be? Also can you bleed the coolant system with only the cap off the reservoir?
There is a lot going on here. Without being there I can't really help that much, except I would say attack one problem at a time
@@RiggsGarage I ended up figuring it out, had some wonky issues because my cluster wasn’t working/communicating with my ecm. As well as the drive circuit going out as well. Got a used cluster and it solved everything as of now.
@@codydavis7030 Heck yeah! Glad to hear!
Thanks man appreciate it, I’m glad to be rollin again for now!
Yes where can i buy that bleeder buck
There is an Amazon link in the comments. Also at O'Reilly I think
What size cap for the radiator did you attach to the funnel?
It comes with multiple different style caps in the kit
Does the coolant reservoir cap have to be off or optional lol
Haha it was missing on this car, it was a piece of junk from one of my family members. That cap is not needed technically because it's not a pressurized piece of the system, just an overflow
Devan from the blue springs lake here !
Hey man! You guys catch anything that night?
@@RiggsGarage we didn’t
Shouldn’t the coolant be blue?
Maybe if it was not a ragged 200,000 mi $1,500 car sure lol
Do you have a link to the burping kit?
amzn.to/3UwddmD
Hi I recently replaced my thermostat and my radiator as well as two caps and my system is too over pressurized I was wondering what caused this and if you could help me thank you
Hi, what do you mean too over pressurized? Like it's building too much pressure? Does it overheat? How do you know it's over pressurized? Lemme know
@@RiggsGarage ok so it doesn’t overheat but after driving it for a while it will push some fluid into the overfill and not suck it back into the radiator it also stays pressurized for hours I have drove it then parked it and let it sit for fourteen hours and then come back take the radiator cap off and it blow coolant everywhere and I’m unsure why help pls
That is what mine just did. Was still pressurized when taking cap off and it’s been over 15 hrs since driving it.
Maybe your rad cap has too high a pressure rating. Caps are designed with a spring to allow coolant to bypass the cap seal and flow into the reservoir when they reach a certain PSI. Research what your car requires for a PSI rating and verify yours.
@ManBearPigBear You are right though that is why my uncle said the same thing he has been a mechanic for more than 20 years
I have same car. Decided to do this and after an hour my car still continued bubbling. Bubbles won’t stop. Is that normal?
That's not normal. Could have a leak or possibly head gasket is allowing exhaust into the coolant. I'd recommend pressure testing your system and checking for head gasket leaks
@@RiggsGarage I appreciate your response! I’m going to look into that.
If pressure tests pass, the heater core may be plugged with gunk. If your car smells a little rotten in the morning, that is a tell tale sign. You can unplug the coolant hoses from heater core and use a connector to reconnect the hos es directly together with it. Bleed the system again and test and see what happens after its bled overtime time
if your car overheated recently and it still runs with apparant normalcy, don't be fooled it sounds like a head gasket leaking enough to put constant gases into your cooling passages. after an overheat and a couple trips where it seemed still normal but no, the longer I drove it the more bubbles would come out of the radiator filler with the cap off. I pressurized the cylinders and cyl # 3 was pushing coolant out the radiator filler tube. more clear it couldnt be! and it was still running. I removed the cylinder head; had it resurfaced and worked the valves and seats to non-leak status and put it all back together. after 2 and 1/2 years later it competes with lumborginnis out on the highway .. I'm proud of my civic! an 18 year old car doing like a new one, that is quality. (09/26/2021).
@@pistolp9809did you ever end up fixing it? If so how. Having the same thing happen to me after replacing thermostat. Not a head gasket leak as none of my fluids are mixing and fluid levels are staying the same and the bubble don’t increase when revving. I’m thinking it’s a exhaust leak
can you link the funnel kit from amazon please?
It is in the video description. Thank you!
Thank you..
You're welcome
I need u to do mine I’m getting no heat at stop lights after timing belt kit was done
Could also be low coolant
Does air in system cause idle issues if any What are they ??
Yes it can if there is a bubble in in the icav
@@RiggsGarage when i cold start the car it surges a bit also when driving in gear then and putting it in neutral the rpms dont catch them selfs
@@javierchavez7167 could also be a vacuum leak or something. Is it throwing any codes?
@@RiggsGarage no codes and 100% sure no vacuum leaks
Lack of coolant was my problem, add coolant now I have heat!
Make sure you find out where the coolant went, might have a leak somewhere. Be careful 👍
New radiator, new fans, new OEM t-stat, followed instructions exactly but lower hose doesn't seem to warm up.
Edit: doesn't overheat either.
What does your temperature gauge say? Are the fans kicking on eventually?
@@RiggsGarage fans do turn on, seems like the thermostat is opening, lower hose finally heated up but I've still got quite a decent amount of bubbles. I'm going to try flushing the heater core and see if that helps. It seems like there's a lot of residue from the old equipment present and I made the mistake of assuming I didn't need to flush when I replaced everything.
Edit: temp gauge never went past where it normally sits (just below the icon, about 1/3)
I am also not getting hot air coming into the cab either when im driving, it just runs cold air all the time 😑
Clogged heater core
Great vid man!
Thanks Mr R!
How long should car run to burp?
It varies depending on the car, but after the car is fully warm and the thermostat is open I just let it run for 10 to 30 minutes with that funnel on there and just let all the air work its way out
@@RiggsGarage thank you. I was not not letting Honda Civic run more than 10 min!
How long is the tube?.... The tube is too big and wont go in there.
Shouldve shown putting the tube in the radiator
Are you referring to the funnel? It comes with multiple different radiator cap adapters and you just need to figure out which one fits your car. The kit has a lot of them and so far they fit everything I've worked on.
My radiator cap doesnt have this funnel option
Not quite sure what you mean
@@RiggsGarage i just realize it was the universal bleeder you bought.. I thought it was original cap
@@Papisartee haha got it, yeah, The cap is part of a kit
And if the bubbles never stop and the expansion tank is all oily.... headgasket may be toast!
Yeahhh......😬
my bubbles won’t stop , why ?
Could be several things including a head gasket. Definitely get that checked out
1.6 l VTEC
Zzz
Zzz