Wonderful job showing the process of taking the pump out and replacing. Thats exactly the way to do it. No detail missed! Maybe just more in depth of how to drain and flush the system on the esacpe.
Thank you for your video, it is great help to do my 05 Ford Escape. Also in order to remove the pulley from the pump, it can be done before removing the accessory drive belt because it will hold the pulley still while you loosen up the nut. Also flush your PS fluid and bleed the air, it highly important and I recommend Motorcraft Mercon V synthetic ATF but you can use regular Mercon V ATF by Motorcraft
So something I just learned about the clips like the one up top fir the pressure sensor is that you can just push it farther on to release it. I've been doing it wrong filor years lol. Also you can't lose the clip then either 👍
I have a leak on the return line where the 2 bolts are and it is the O ring but I couldn't find anyone who sells it so I just ordered a new PS pump which comes with the return line tube attached to it, and a new high pressure line. I found out it is better and easier and less headaches than trying to remove the the return line to change an O ring that is not sold by anyone anywhere. I spent $84 for the pump and $64 for the high pressure line for my Escape.
Thanks Zach. Good video on the repair keeping the old car running another day. When, I encountered that one of the four anchor bolts, on the power steering pump. Directly, behind the Hi-Pressure tube fitting that one which you made a special *Tip to have installed first. I have two comments about it. Firstly, if you're having difficulty getting that bolt free try undoing the other three bolts first leaving this one for last. As you loosen the bolt pull the power steering pump away from the engine block. I used, a closed end box type wrench ratcheted on one end. Lastly, to remove this last bolt behind the fitting i destructively removed the Hi-Pressure metal tubing. Simply, I cut it with a tube cutter and bent it back and forth until it broke off. Freeing up space to remove my ratchet box wrench. On reflection I should have used my first *Tip. By loosening the other three bolts, I wouldn't have encountered any issues as I could pull the body of the power steering towards the front of the car thereby keeping a constant clearance space between the bolt head and the Hi-Pressure tubings knurled fitting. P.s. I bought a "Wobble socket set from Harbor Freight" highly recommend it for these hard to reach places on the Escape and other vehicles. Thanks Jimmy
Wish you would’ve shown removing the hose from rack. I spent 6 hours but nothing I had would fit that bolt with the angle it was at and was starting to just strip. I gave up lol. Was it a huge pain for you?
Are you talking about the bolt that holds the hose to the frame/crossmember? Yeah that was one of the more difficult parts of the job. At 9:03 you can see my setup to get it off. There’s about four feet of extensions and some wobbly ones down at the end. A universal joint would work too but I found it was much harder to get the socket on with a universal joint style adapter.
Jonathan Cervantes maybe if you have some large line wrench crows feet you can remove the high pressure line from the pump while it’s still attached to the engine, but I found it was easier to just hold the pump with a large set of vice grips after it was loose from the engine because there wasn’t much clearance for the large wrench needed to loosen the line fitting. Or if you need to replace the high pressure line like I did you can leave it attached and pull the line out of the engine bay. Then you can place the pump in a vice to loosen the high pressure line from the pump.
@@MC-hs4mf to remove the pump you need to remove the high pressure connection at the pump, yes. I removed the entire line because this customer requested it as it was leaking at the pressure fitting. Hope this helps. 👍
@@zachmiller289 thanks that makes more sense. Can you bypass the pump with a shorter belt if you can’t afford to have it done at the moment? You do this for a living? I’m losing fluid seems like fluid covering pump was hoping just a bad hose. How much would a shop charge to replace pump if bad? Can u drive forever on a bad pump? Did you say you had to remove ac compressor too???
@@MC-hs4mf glad that helped clarify it some. No, I’m a product engineer for Toyota for my full time and I do this on the side to keep my skills from getting rusty and help others save money. A local shop quoted the guy over $500 for the part and labor. I got the parts and did the work for $250. And yes, I removed the A/C compressor to access the power steering pump bolts. To answer your other question, I don’t know of a pulley you can buy that would bypass the pump. There may be one but I’m not sure. If you keep driving with a failed pump long enough it is possible that it could damage the rack and pinion as well as metal shavings from the power steering pump would get circulated through the fluid. Just my two cents. The pump has a lifetime warranty from your typical parts stores and was less than $90 when I bought it. Much easier and cheaper than having to replace the rack and pinion as well! Good luck!
Hey man, I’m a ford technician, but I have been asked a question that I don’t know how to answer as I’ve never made this mistake… but a friend of mine is installing a new pump on their escape. The flow control valve fell out of the new pump. Since I haven’t made this mistake before, and ford only states “NOTICE: DO NOT ALLOW FLOW CONTROL VALVE TO DROP OUT OF THE PUMP” without giving any explanation as to why, or what the outcome would be, I’m not sure what to tell them. I don’t know how it’s constructed off the top of my head, but is that valve something that could be placed back in without issue?
So I'm thinking its feasible to pull the pump w/o pulling all the lines loose; once you undid the 3 main bolts bolting the pump on, was it able to drop down enough to reach the high pressure bolts? I'm doing a friends and I really dont want to f*** with bolting the high pressure line back to the rack. Just undo everything from the pump and swap it out. Hers its geysering out the pulley seal, dont need to mess with the lines.
hey Zach, great video, let me ask u your opinion, I have put in to reman pumps and a high pressure line, the system was flushed before starting the with the first pump, problem is neither pump is drawing from the reservoir, I even took the high pressure sensor out and no pressure, so I ordered a new pump chalking it up to junk rebuilt pumps I guess it’s a coin toss w reman pumps ? Can you think of anything else.. Thanks in advance I
Thank you! I’ve received my fair share of bad reman pumps, but usually they just fail shortly after being put into service and not necessarily right out of the box. The escapes can be a little tricky to get all the air out of the system. If the vehicle is off the ground, fill the reservoir and turn the wheels lock to lock multiple times before starting the engine. Also if you have a handheld vacuum pump you can poke a small hole in a flat piece of foam or other material that will seal off the top of the reservoir and apply some vacuum to the system while someone turns the wheels back and forth. (Do as much as you can with the engine off.) hope this helps!
I believe the most cost effective option for this customer was from autozone. www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pressure-line-hose/p/duralast-power-steering-pressure-line-hose-assembly-92232/567139_0_0
Hi my question is if the bearing on the pump is going out wld that cause it squeal or make a noise. W the belt off and trying to spin the pulley it dosent spin freely like the others maybe a qtr turn if that?
The bearing wearing out could definitely cause noise. Whether it’s the source of the squeal noise is hard to call without putting hands on the vehicle. You can use a long screwdriver or a mechanics stethoscope(pretty cheap tool) and touch it to different components while the engine is running. Make sure to only touch various spots that aren’t spinning. For example, touch the body of the power steering pump, the bolt that secures the idler pulley, etc.. Do at your own risk, but this is the quickest way to determine the source of the house. Hope that helps!!
Is the single shaft nut size on this year the same as the nut on the 06 Ford escape for the power steering pump pulley? Just the outer nut that fastens the pulley on. Also is there a washer?
Does the power steering pump have a sensor? The reason I'm asking is I have a problem with leaking fluid, the service dept said they can order a pump with or without a "sensor".. I have no idea what they're talking about. I'm a female who knows nothing about cars. I have a 2006 Mercury Mariner but I can't find any info about the Mariner
Dana Howard I haven’t personally done this job on the Mariner, but I think they’re pretty similar. This vehicle had the sensor on the high pressure line which I believe is pretty common. If you only have a leak, I don’t think you need a sensor to be replaced as well. They typically have an o-ring on them that can be replaced if the sensor is where the fluid is leaking from. I hope this helps!
@@zachmiller289 thank you for the quick response. The service dept guy said the "sensor isn't working which caused the pump to burn up".. I was just curious where it's located or what it looks like. I've just never heard anyone say it has a "sensor"
ClearlyEvo V if you’re standing on the passenger side looking down from the middle of the firewall with the right light you can see a single 10mm bolt that holds the high pressure line to the cross member. For the bolt that secured the high pressure line to the rack itself, it’s almost directly under where the driver’s feet would be. Hopefully that helps. @5:11 I tried to show where to access it.
I'm glad they made it really easy to remove
I wanted to see more of what you did. I liked your commentary but wanted more. Thanks.
Wonderful job showing the process of taking the pump out and replacing. Thats exactly the way to do it. No detail missed! Maybe just more in depth of how to drain and flush the system on the esacpe.
I jus got my first Ford escape 05 with less then 30k miles I'm happy but jus realized I gotta change my power steering pump 💪🏻 appreciate the help
Thank you for your video, it is great help to do my 05 Ford Escape. Also in order to remove the pulley from the pump, it can be done before removing the accessory drive belt because it will hold the pulley still while you loosen up the nut. Also flush your PS fluid and bleed the air, it highly important and I recommend Motorcraft Mercon V synthetic ATF but you can use regular Mercon V ATF by Motorcraft
Thank you this video has really helped me out a lot I appreciate the time you took to make it.
Ruben Perez Thank you for watching! Glad it helped. 👍
@@zachmiller289 about how long would this process take if done in a garage?
@@wanderinlife68 about 1-2 hours depending on your level of experience working on vehicles.
@@zachmiller289 what tools would you say I'd need, wanna make sure I actually have everything before I start taking shit apart.😂
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME DOING THIS VIDEO, IT IS VERY HELPFUL
gracias, por compartir estos buenos conceptos ; del sistema de dirección hidráulica; bendiciones
So something I just learned about the clips like the one up top fir the pressure sensor is that you can just push it farther on to release it. I've been doing it wrong filor years lol. Also you can't lose the clip then either 👍
Great job! Now, on to that oil pan gasket!😁
I have a leak on the return line where the 2 bolts are and it is the O ring but I couldn't find anyone who sells it so I just ordered a new PS pump which comes with the return line tube attached to it, and a new high pressure line. I found out it is better and easier and less headaches than trying to remove the the return line to change an O ring that is not sold by anyone anywhere. I spent $84 for the pump and $64 for the high pressure line for my Escape.
Where did you get the pump from ?
Thanks Zach. Good video on the repair keeping the old car running another day. When, I encountered that one of the four anchor bolts, on the power steering pump. Directly, behind the Hi-Pressure tube fitting that one which you made a special *Tip to have installed first. I have two comments about it. Firstly, if you're having difficulty getting that bolt free try undoing the other three bolts first leaving this one for last. As you loosen the bolt pull the power steering pump away from the engine block. I used, a closed end box type wrench ratcheted on one end. Lastly, to remove this last bolt behind the fitting i destructively removed the Hi-Pressure metal tubing. Simply, I cut it with a tube cutter and bent it back and forth until it broke off. Freeing up space to remove my ratchet box wrench. On reflection I should have used my first *Tip. By loosening the other three bolts, I wouldn't have encountered any issues as I could pull the body of the power steering towards the front of the car thereby keeping a constant clearance space between the bolt head and the Hi-Pressure tubings knurled fitting. P.s. I bought a "Wobble socket set from Harbor Freight" highly recommend it for these hard to reach places on the Escape and other vehicles.
Thanks
Jimmy
Damn I needed to see you do the o-ring on the high pressure line
Gracias amigo por tu video repare mi troca escape de lo mismo yo solo gracias saludos desde California
Tengo una Escape 2006 con el mismo daño. Ai q reemplazar solo la bomba??
Thank fuck this video exists lmao I wasn't sure what I was doing
у меня 2005 года эскейп трёх литровый!!!!!!!он у меня на пропане лютый аппарат!!!правда запчасти дороговатые !!!ваш президент мозг парит!!!
A real headache especially, when it comes to a V6 vehicle.
Any chance I could get some ideas on threading the high pressure line to the steering?
You could support /he motor and remove the engine mount to get access
Removing bolts for AC compressor, do you need to remove refrigerant or just to move compressor aside
No need to evacuate the refrigerant, just move it off to the side. Bungee cords are helpful to support it.
Wish you would’ve shown removing the hose from rack. I spent 6 hours but nothing I had would fit that bolt with the angle it was at and was starting to just strip. I gave up lol. Was it a huge pain for you?
Are you talking about the bolt that holds the hose to the frame/crossmember? Yeah that was one of the more difficult parts of the job. At 9:03 you can see my setup to get it off. There’s about four feet of extensions and some wobbly ones down at the end. A universal joint would work too but I found it was much harder to get the socket on with a universal joint style adapter.
Wow, can that pump leaking cause and entire greasy mess at the “front” (passenger side) of the V6 engine? Am thinking that is my culprit.
Hello nice video, i'm stuck on removing the high pressure from the factory pump would you care to explain?
Jonathan Cervantes maybe if you have some large line wrench crows feet you can remove the high pressure line from the pump while it’s still attached to the engine, but I found it was easier to just hold the pump with a large set of vice grips after it was loose from the engine because there wasn’t much clearance for the large wrench needed to loosen the line fitting. Or if you need to replace the high pressure line like I did you can leave it attached and pull the line out of the engine bay. Then you can place the pump in a vice to loosen the high pressure line from the pump.
@@zachmiller289 you had to remove all of the high pressure lines to replace the pump??
@@MC-hs4mf to remove the pump you need to remove the high pressure connection at the pump, yes. I removed the entire line because this customer requested it as it was leaking at the pressure fitting. Hope this helps. 👍
@@zachmiller289 thanks that makes more sense. Can you bypass the pump with a shorter belt if you can’t afford to have it done at the moment? You do this for a living? I’m losing fluid seems like fluid covering pump was hoping just a bad hose. How much would a shop charge to replace pump if bad? Can u drive forever on a bad pump? Did you say you had to remove ac compressor too???
@@MC-hs4mf glad that helped clarify it some. No, I’m a product engineer for Toyota for my full time and I do this on the side to keep my skills from getting rusty and help others save money. A local shop quoted the guy over $500 for the part and labor. I got the parts and did the work for $250. And yes, I removed the A/C compressor to access the power steering pump bolts.
To answer your other question, I don’t know of a pulley you can buy that would bypass the pump. There may be one but I’m not sure. If you keep driving with a failed pump long enough it is possible that it could damage the rack and pinion as well as metal shavings from the power steering pump would get circulated through the fluid. Just my two cents. The pump has a lifetime warranty from your typical parts stores and was less than $90 when I bought it. Much easier and cheaper than having to replace the rack and pinion as well! Good luck!
Hey man, I’m a ford technician, but I have been asked a question that I don’t know how to answer as I’ve never made this mistake… but a friend of mine is installing a new pump on their escape. The flow control valve fell out of the new pump. Since I haven’t made this mistake before, and ford only states “NOTICE: DO NOT ALLOW FLOW CONTROL VALVE TO DROP OUT OF THE PUMP” without giving any explanation as to why, or what the outcome would be, I’m not sure what to tell them. I don’t know how it’s constructed off the top of my head, but is that valve something that could be placed back in without issue?
So I'm thinking its feasible to pull the pump w/o pulling all the lines loose; once you undid the 3 main bolts bolting the pump on, was it able to drop down enough to reach the high pressure bolts? I'm doing a friends and I really dont want to f*** with bolting the high pressure line back to the rack. Just undo everything from the pump and swap it out. Hers its geysering out the pulley seal, dont need to mess with the lines.
It *might* be possible. I didn’t try that since I was replacing the line anyways.
How much would you charge to change the p/s pump?
I can’t find a new power steering pump for a 2.5L anywhere 😢
hey Zach, great video, let me ask u your opinion, I have put in to reman pumps and a high pressure line, the system was flushed before starting the with the first pump, problem is neither pump is drawing from the reservoir, I even took the high pressure sensor out and no pressure, so I ordered a new pump chalking it up to junk rebuilt pumps
I guess it’s a coin toss w reman pumps ?
Can you think of anything else..
Thanks in advance
I
Thank you! I’ve received my fair share of bad reman pumps, but usually they just fail shortly after being put into service and not necessarily right out of the box. The escapes can be a little tricky to get all the air out of the system. If the vehicle is off the ground, fill the reservoir and turn the wheels lock to lock multiple times before starting the engine. Also if you have a handheld vacuum pump you can poke a small hole in a flat piece of foam or other material that will seal off the top of the reservoir and apply some vacuum to the system while someone turns the wheels back and forth. (Do as much as you can with the engine off.) hope this helps!
@@zachmiller289 bro ur a legend responding to all the comments ❤️👍👍 10/10 Great video
@@Larry-xf3qt thank you!! I do my best to be helpful! 👍
Hello sir Where did you buy your high pressure line
Link please
I believe the most cost effective option for this customer was from autozone.
www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pressure-line-hose/p/duralast-power-steering-pressure-line-hose-assembly-92232/567139_0_0
Hi my question is if the bearing on the pump is going out wld that cause it squeal or make a noise. W the belt off and trying to spin the pulley it dosent spin freely like the others maybe a qtr turn if that?
The bearing wearing out could definitely cause noise. Whether it’s the source of the squeal noise is hard to call without putting hands on the vehicle. You can use a long screwdriver or a mechanics stethoscope(pretty cheap tool) and touch it to different components while the engine is running. Make sure to only touch various spots that aren’t spinning. For example, touch the body of the power steering pump, the bolt that secures the idler pulley, etc.. Do at your own risk, but this is the quickest way to determine the source of the house. Hope that helps!!
Is the single shaft nut size on this year the same as the nut on the 06 Ford escape for the power steering pump pulley? Just the outer nut that fastens the pulley on. Also is there a washer?
From what I remember there was not a washer. And I would guess they would be the same size.
What lead you to change the HPS lines as well as pump and not pump only?
The HP line was leaking at the crimped portion of the hose. Customer asked for that to be fixed at the same time. 👍
La mía se pone duro el volante pero no ase ruido será lo mismo?
Does the power steering pump have a sensor? The reason I'm asking is I have a problem with leaking fluid, the service dept said they can order a pump with or without a "sensor".. I have no idea what they're talking about. I'm a female who knows nothing about cars. I have a 2006 Mercury Mariner but I can't find any info about the Mariner
Dana Howard I haven’t personally done this job on the Mariner, but I think they’re pretty similar. This vehicle had the sensor on the high pressure line which I believe is pretty common. If you only have a leak, I don’t think you need a sensor to be replaced as well. They typically have an o-ring on them that can be replaced if the sensor is where the fluid is leaking from. I hope this helps!
@@zachmiller289 thank you for the quick response. The service dept guy said the "sensor isn't working which caused the pump to burn up".. I was just curious where it's located or what it looks like. I've just never heard anyone say it has a "sensor"
So how do you flush it
Mam wyciek pod śrubą przewodu wysokiego ciśnienia. Jak oddzielic śrube od metalowego przewodu?
don't trust jack stands, use blocking
How much is for all this work worth?
Just had to go get mine looked at and they’re quoting me $900
"Saftey first" Shows recalled jack stands lol.
ClearlyEvo V thanks for the concern! These actually didn’t fall under the recalled models. Thanks for looking out though!
Fosho! On this job where did you get access to the bolt for rack to high pressure line.
ClearlyEvo V if you’re standing on the passenger side looking down from the middle of the firewall with the right light you can see a single 10mm bolt that holds the high pressure line to the cross member. For the bolt that secured the high pressure line to the rack itself, it’s almost directly under where the driver’s feet would be. Hopefully that helps. @5:11 I tried to show where to access it.