I just bought a 2017 f150 XLT 5.0 Supercrew 90,000 miles very well taken care of. Ran perfectly fine two weeks ago when bought. Noticed the other day a rough shaky idle at park, almost like it was about to turn off. Was gonna take it in today since I purchased warranty. However before I could there was a rough jolt while driving, it then wouldn’t shift passed 5th or below 3rd. Check engine light came on and wrench symbol 😢. As I limped it back to the dealership at 45mph there was still a rough jolt every now and again. We shall see what they say in the morning. I literally watched this video yesterday hoping this might be might problem 😅
@@terrorofdemons1168more than likely it was the lead frame. Mine had the same issue around 95k. No idling issues but was not shifting past 3rd gear and would get stuck in third gear. Got a code for Transmission output shaft speed sensor and the wrench light
2019 Bullitt having idle issues intermittently when at a stop light. Rough idle lasts a few seconds. How different is removing everything vs the F150? I’m pretty confident these solenoids are the culprit. Not CEL either
sounds like solenoids, pretty similar swap. The Gen3 has a DI pump on the RH valve cover. And Mustang has a little less room to work. But overall the process should be about the same
I just got a quote from my Local ford dealer of $5000 to do this. $2200 in parts and $2300 in labor, plus some other bogus charges and tax. My truck is running like total crap now. Is this all there is to it? I can buy Fords parts for about $200 and do it in about a half day myself ????
They might have quoted the camshaft actuators too for that kind of price, you're almost in reman engine territory at 5k lol And yes this job is that easy if this is all you need to do.
@@Patman03sprcrw ...so, my truck has 126k miles on it. I have always used full synthetic oil in it and always replaced it at 5K miles. I really find it hard to believe that the chain and tensioner etc is worn out. I am just gonna replace the VCT's and hope for the best. What do you think?
@@Patman03sprcrw was on occasional stumble or misfire, and or stall while idling. Now rough running, some loss of power at takeoff, bucking when you are at cruise speed down the road, still will stall when stopped occasionally.
hay patman my truck f150 5.0 2016 is stalling at a stop and driving fine could this be the issue? i replace the throtal body and the spark plugs and the purge valve and the fuel pump driver module and the betray and the problem is still the same i need help !
VCT solenoids is usually more of a stumble at idle, and lacking throttle response. I guess if they were really bad it could lead to stalling, but not as likely. You could also have a broken IMRC in the intake manifold
Light acceleration, throttle lift, and then it rattles. Normal operation of the DI pump dead heading pressure. Rattle during steady light throttle could be a little bit of pinging, more typical in hot ambient temps
Hey I have 2015 f150 5.0 I have noticed I have a chatter coming from driver side top of engine sounds like coming from front. It also has a vibration that accompanied with it which happens in the driver dash area. I been wondering if I need to replace vct. I have zero dtc. Only does it underload about 2k rpm. How did you discover these needed to be replaced ?
general feeling on this truck. lacking initial throttle tip in response. it also had an occasional "stumble" at idle too. overall the engine just felt "off" or slightly not normal if that makes sense
@@Patman03sprcrw that does make since you look to be very familiar with the coyote based. On your channel. Would you be willing to to look at a forscan file I did of my VCt? Just give me your two cents ?
I know you mentioned the idiot proof pin for install, but Is it physically possible to install these backwards? my '16 had the entire timing replaced for P0012. Still getting P0012. Today I noticed that the connector for bank one intake is backwards! The white locking mechanism is facing aft on all the solenoid connectors except that one, it's facing forward.
sounds extra special if someone forced it backwords LOL have we pulled the two connectors off and see if the body of the VCT solenoid is backwords too, or is it just the connector only?
I’m having to gently pry the cover off because it won’t let loose. I’ve taken all the bolts loose but it’s not budging, how did you get it off after taking the bolts out?
might try spaying some glass cleaner around between the cover and the spark plug tubes. Especially if the outside feels free, but stuck in the middle. Same thing around the VCT solenoid gaskets
updated video description. Tasca says same part from 2010-2024 for all 5.0 engine. OE part number for a single solenoid is BR3Z-6M280-E if you'd like to do your own research.... of course the passenger side valve cover will be a little more difficult with the high pressure fuel pump on Gen3 or newer
Yes valve covers need to come off. Don't think there is a shortcut around that much. The valvecover bolts them selves are available, so you can get replacement if you can get the bolt out
My 2016 F150 5.0 is making a valve knock at slow acceleration on low RPMs, and then it goes away. Fast acceleration doesn't make any knocking or noise. Also, at idle, it has the typical piston slack. These issues don't always duplicate. Do you believe replacing the solenoids will fix it? PS: No fail codes found.
@@Patman03sprcrw my truck has random stumbles and rough idle intermittently, sometimes it will die but no check engine light. I’m tempted to replace vct solenoids
@@tylervanbooven5764my buddy and I are having the same problems with both our trucks. I think I’m going to get my done first and see. I’ve had it in multiple times and this is what the shop is thinking. The quote I got was $560
I'm thinking of getting a set of these for my '14 F150. I did see this note (below) on a website saying to use for for competition only. Apparently it could violate some emissions regulation. I don't understand how these would affect emissions. I also don't know who would be racing an F150. Anyway, I've got a P0022 code with reduced MPG and throttle power when accelerating. It feels like it's shaking the entire engine when accelerating. If they're not harming the truck I'll use them. "This part is designed and intended for competition use only. It should not be installed on a vehicle that is driven on public roads and highways. Installation of this art on a vehicle driven on public roads and highways is likely to violate U.S. and Canadian laws and regulations relating to motor vehicle emissions."
I believe that is a generic Ford Racing legal clause. They are identical to stock unit, just have a little bit stronger housing reinforcement. I've personally used them on Gen1 and Gen2 5.0 engines without any issues
@@zacharycoslic1274 From my research the kit should work on Gen3 up to 2024 the video description has the Ford P/N for the standard/single VCT Solenoid if you'd like to do your own research of course the RH valve cover is different on Gen3 with the addition of the high pressure fuel pump
I could have removed the heater hoses, then I would have added coolant cost, and more labor to bleed the coolant, as well as risking breaking a quick connector at the firewall. Generally techs like to work around stuff if possible instead of removing everything. Time = Money
Interesting... I don't think it's worth wasting coolant and all that mess, and a potential leak down the road. But if you're due for a coolant flush, you could do two birds with one stone 👍
I would remove them. They're up high so I doubt you would lose much coolant. I would gladly undo two hose clamps and replace a bit of coolant to have one less thing to fight with.
I have a 2019 F150 5.0 with just under 126K miles. I had this done at the dealership under the extended warranty just over 100K miles. Now my truck has fluctuating RPMs under normal driving load. For example, if I'm driving 50mph the rpms fluctuate up and down. I don't have a CEL as I had before, but it looks like oil or something is seeping from one of the driver side VCT connection points on top of the valve cover. Does this seem like the most likely issue or is there something else I should look for? This was my first thought as to what could be the cause, but I wasn't expecting to see the oil or whatever it could be on top of the valve cover. I did have the oil changed about 500 miles ago so it could be they spilled oil on top of the cover, but I'm not 100% on that. What are your thoughts/advice?
I have a 2015 f-150 5.0 the other day I came to a stop the truck stated low oil pressure and the oil gauge dropped to zero when I let go of the brake it went back to normal but the truck started hesitating and having rough idle the truck threw a code P0021 could the solenoids be the issue ?
Not sure on the hesitation part in relation to the oil pressure switch.... Or did the truck shut off and then you had the message for low oil pressure?
I installed these on my truck but it give me a different codes. What I search in the website is that these don’t go in regular trucks. These VCT High strength solenoids are met for racing not for driving on regular streets or highways. So DO NOT install these on any 5.0 coyote engine not unless you have a racing car. These will give you a code P0137 on bank 1 and they will give you a second code P0157 on bank 2 these codes are referring to O2 sensors.
Oxygen sensor circuit codes have nothing to do with VCT circuits. I've used these on two different 5.0s with no issues. This video is already over a year old and the owner of the truck I talk to about once a week. Please don't comment with inaccurate information
If the seal for the solenoid is leaking can it be replaced from the top? Or does the cover have to come out. Also what was the symptom that prompted the solenoid replacement?
@@LewGQ pull the coil over the broken bolt and maybe see if you can get some pliers on it? If its flush flush in the valve cover they aren't terribly expensive to replace
@@Patman03sprcrwI'm a little intimidated by the heater hoses being in the way. I would honestly like to remove them during the repair/installation. The code only said bank two, so I still have a shaky idle, so I had better change the other side. It's Not nearly as bad as before.
A+ thank you for showing us laypeople the techniques man. We appreciate you
you're welcome!!
I just bought a 2017 f150 XLT 5.0 Supercrew 90,000 miles very well taken care of.
Ran perfectly fine two weeks ago when bought. Noticed the other day a rough shaky idle at park, almost like it was about to turn off. Was gonna take it in today since I purchased warranty. However before I could there was a rough jolt while driving, it then wouldn’t shift passed 5th or below 3rd. Check engine light came on and wrench symbol 😢.
As I limped it back to the dealership at 45mph there was still a rough jolt every now and again. We shall see what they say in the morning.
I literally watched this video yesterday hoping this might be might problem 😅
Transmission issue is probably the "lead frame" I also have a video on that install if you wanna check it out too
What was the problem? Please respond. Thanks in advance
@@terrorofdemons1168more than likely it was the lead frame. Mine had the same issue around 95k. No idling issues but was not shifting past 3rd gear and would get stuck in third gear. Got a code for Transmission output shaft speed sensor and the wrench light
What's the science behind using glass cleaner for seals and connectors?
its provides lubrication for install and dries cleanly
2019 Bullitt having idle issues intermittently when at a stop light. Rough idle lasts a few seconds. How different is removing everything vs the F150? I’m pretty confident these solenoids are the culprit. Not CEL either
sounds like solenoids, pretty similar swap. The Gen3 has a DI pump on the RH valve cover. And Mustang has a little less room to work. But overall the process should be about the same
Thanks for the video. The driver side, the upper sensor, or vtc, looks wet, not a lot. You see, like a bit of oil, kind of, why is happening?
if its wet around the outside of the solenoid, probably just the valve cover leaking through the grommet
I just got a quote from my Local ford dealer of $5000 to do this. $2200 in parts and $2300 in labor, plus some other bogus charges and tax. My truck is running like total crap now. Is this all there is to it? I can buy Fords parts for about $200 and do it in about a half day myself ????
They might have quoted the camshaft actuators too for that kind of price, you're almost in reman engine territory at 5k lol
And yes this job is that easy if this is all you need to do.
@@Patman03sprcrw ...so, my truck has 126k miles on it. I have always used full synthetic oil in it and always replaced it at 5K miles. I really find it hard to believe that the chain and tensioner etc is worn out. I am just gonna replace the VCT's and hope for the best. What do you think?
Whats the symptoms? Random stumble? Loss of throttle respons?
@@Patman03sprcrw was on occasional stumble or misfire, and or stall while idling. Now rough running, some loss of power at takeoff, bucking when you are at cruise speed down the road, still will stall when stopped occasionally.
@@jds5355 sounds about right. Let's start with the solenoids 👍
hay patman
my truck f150 5.0 2016 is stalling at a stop and driving fine could this be the issue?
i replace the throtal body and the spark plugs and the purge valve and the fuel pump driver module and the betray and the problem is still the same i need help !
with no codes no check engine light
VCT solenoids is usually more of a stumble at idle, and lacking throttle response. I guess if they were really bad it could lead to stalling, but not as likely. You could also have a broken IMRC in the intake manifold
My 2018 has a terrible rattle at light acceleration. Would this be the cause? Bad VCTs?
Light acceleration, throttle lift, and then it rattles. Normal operation of the DI pump dead heading pressure.
Rattle during steady light throttle could be a little bit of pinging, more typical in hot ambient temps
Heard removing dipstick is difficult. Any tips to remove without breaking it ?
Soaking glass cleaner or penetrating oil. Release the tab and gentle wiggle off/on back and forth until it starts to move
rip it out like a lawn mower
Push it down and twist counter clockwise
Did he say anything bout the dipstick
Hey I have 2015 f150 5.0 I have noticed I have a chatter coming from driver side top of engine sounds like coming from front. It also has a vibration that accompanied with it which happens in the driver dash area. I been wondering if I need to replace vct. I have zero dtc. Only does it underload about 2k rpm. How did you discover these needed to be replaced ?
general feeling on this truck. lacking initial throttle tip in response. it also had an occasional "stumble" at idle too. overall the engine just felt "off" or slightly not normal if that makes sense
@@Patman03sprcrw that does make since you look to be very familiar with the coyote based. On your channel. Would you be willing to to look at a forscan file I did of my VCt? Just give me your two cents ?
@@heathstrauch2243 sure you can email it to me my screen name @gmail
Do you take the oil out from the vehicle or can you work without doing that?
no need to drain the oil
I know you mentioned the idiot proof pin for install, but Is it physically possible to install these backwards? my '16 had the entire timing replaced for P0012. Still getting P0012. Today I noticed that the connector for bank one intake is backwards! The white locking mechanism is facing aft on all the solenoid connectors except that one, it's facing forward.
sounds extra special if someone forced it backwords LOL
have we pulled the two connectors off and see if the body of the VCT solenoid is backwords too, or is it just the connector only?
What was that hissing noise when you started her back up and looked under the hood?
I dont hear anything unusual in the video? either hearing the electric cooling fans, or hearing the vacuum manifold on the driver side of the engine
I’m having to gently pry the cover off because it won’t let loose. I’ve taken all the bolts loose but it’s not budging, how did you get it off after taking the bolts out?
might try spaying some glass cleaner around between the cover and the spark plug tubes. Especially if the outside feels free, but stuck in the middle. Same thing around the VCT solenoid gaskets
What you doin with that new edge ????
little Coyote swap action. its up next on the channel
Is Bank 2 on the driver side?
yes
Does anyone know if this kit will work on a 2019? Are they different?
ooo, good question!
I'd have to do some cross referencing on part numbers on the parts catalog
updated video description. Tasca says same part from 2010-2024 for all 5.0 engine. OE part number for a single solenoid is BR3Z-6M280-E if you'd like to do your own research....
of course the passenger side valve cover will be a little more difficult with the high pressure fuel pump on Gen3 or newer
Did you have to take the grown in the valve cover in the back ? my bolt is stripped 😢
Yes valve covers need to come off. Don't think there is a shortcut around that much. The valvecover bolts them selves are available, so you can get replacement if you can get the bolt out
Can’t you just ground it somewhere else?
@@georgeparker555 ground could be moved to a different spot on the engine yes. Preferably still on that same cylinder head
My 2016 F150 5.0 is making a valve knock at slow acceleration on low RPMs, and then it goes away. Fast acceleration doesn't make any knocking or noise. Also, at idle, it has the typical piston slack.
These issues don't always duplicate.
Do you believe replacing the solenoids will fix it?
PS: No fail codes found.
sounds like a low grade misfire on acceleration. You still have OEM/Ford/Motorcraft plugs and coils in it?
@@Patman03sprcrwI have the same issue this guy described. I have OEM coils / motorcraft plugs. Have had the issue before / after plug change
@@Patman03sprcrwadd a little noise on cold starts
@@nirvanacooper2319 Little noise on start up could be VCT rattle from the phaser itself
I wish you showed how you got the dipstick tube off. I hear it’s tricky. Other than that nice video thank you
yea me too. There is a few comments discussing it below. and Thank you for the kind words!
There's a small yellow sliver on left hand side of tube. Push it in with a flathead gently and twist counter clockwise.
@@rogerrabbit8756thank you
@jmonkey7359 that's on my 2018 5.0 so can't confirm your year is the same. Good luck.
@@rogerrabbit8756mine is a 2016 f150 5.0
Will this install be the same on a 2018-2020 5.0 f150 ?
yes, same part number too from my research. Only difference will be dealing with the high pressure fuel pump on the RH valve cover
haha i did mine not to long ago it wasnt too bad, is that derricks? i remember he was asking if i would do his as well
yup that's Derek's truck
Let me ask you something, does this car also have the variable valve timing solenoids that are not rounded?
the VCT solenoid is round body as seen in this video, or are you talking about something else?
Must be talking about the 3.5 engine maybe. This is the 5.0 v8.
How has the truck treat you thing about buying 5.0
Gen2 is they way to go, 2015-2017 is super reliable overall
Great video....Thank you
BTW......Why did you replace the solenoids anyway ?
We replaced the VCT Solenoids because he had an occasional stumble at idle, and had a little bit slower throttle response
I might have missed it but what symptoms was the truck having?
random stumble at idle. lacking throttle tip in response
@@Patman03sprcrw my truck has random stumbles and rough idle intermittently, sometimes it will die but no check engine light. I’m tempted to replace vct solenoids
Could also be leaking purge valve if it struggles to start immediately after refueling. I'll have a video out about that in a few weeks
@@tylervanbooven5764my buddy and I are having the same problems with both our trucks. I think I’m going to get my done first and see. I’ve had it in multiple times and this is what the shop is thinking. The quote I got was $560
I'm thinking of getting a set of these for my '14 F150. I did see this note (below) on a website saying to use for for competition only. Apparently it could violate some emissions regulation. I don't understand how these would affect emissions. I also don't know who would be racing an F150. Anyway, I've got a P0022 code with reduced MPG and throttle power when accelerating. It feels like it's shaking the entire engine when accelerating. If they're not harming the truck I'll use them.
"This part is designed and intended for competition use only. It should not be installed on a vehicle that is driven on public roads and highways. Installation of this art on a vehicle driven on public roads and highways is likely to violate U.S. and Canadian laws and regulations relating to motor vehicle emissions."
I believe that is a generic Ford Racing legal clause. They are identical to stock unit, just have a little bit stronger housing reinforcement. I've personally used them on Gen1 and Gen2 5.0 engines without any issues
@@Patman03sprcrwwhat about gen 3s will they work also
@@zacharycoslic1274 From my research the kit should work on Gen3 up to 2024
the video description has the Ford P/N for the standard/single VCT Solenoid if you'd like to do your own research
of course the RH valve cover is different on Gen3 with the addition of the high pressure fuel pump
Should’ve showed the part where you struggled to get the valve cover off.
The valve cover comes off fairly easily. I don't recall having any major issues getting these off the heads
Why couldn't you just remove the heater hoses instead of fighting with them ?
I could have removed the heater hoses, then I would have added coolant cost, and more labor to bleed the coolant, as well as risking breaking a quick connector at the firewall. Generally techs like to work around stuff if possible instead of removing everything. Time = Money
Hayes manual says take the heater hoses off.
Interesting... I don't think it's worth wasting coolant and all that mess, and a potential leak down the road.
But if you're due for a coolant flush, you could do two birds with one stone 👍
I would remove them. They're up high so I doubt you would lose much coolant. I would gladly undo two hose clamps and replace a bit of coolant to have one less thing to fight with.
It's a preference thing, but thanks for the comment!
I have a 2019 F150 5.0 with just under 126K miles. I had this done at the dealership under the extended warranty just over 100K miles. Now my truck has fluctuating RPMs under normal driving load. For example, if I'm driving 50mph the rpms fluctuate up and down. I don't have a CEL as I had before, but it looks like oil or something is seeping from one of the driver side VCT connection points on top of the valve cover. Does this seem like the most likely issue or is there something else I should look for? This was my first thought as to what could be the cause, but I wasn't expecting to see the oil or whatever it could be on top of the valve cover. I did have the oil changed about 500 miles ago so it could be they spilled oil on top of the cover, but I'm not 100% on that. What are your thoughts/advice?
I feel like Ford would have done the camshaft actuators (cam gears) not the cam solenoids. Do you have a parts invoice for the repairs made?
Are both the VCT Solenoid Bolts and Valve Cover Bolts are 10-11 foot pounds? I am reading up that they are different.
yes that sounds right. I can double check tho
I did both as 11fts lbs in the video
I have a 2015 f-150 5.0 the other day I came to a stop the truck stated low oil pressure and the oil gauge dropped to zero when I let go of the brake it went back to normal but the truck started hesitating and having rough idle the truck threw a code P0021 could the solenoids be the issue ?
Could just be the oil pressure switch. I have a video on a 2013 F150 for this if you want to start with that first
@ oil pressure switch could cause the hesitation also? Wanting to turn off ?
Not sure on the hesitation part in relation to the oil pressure switch....
Or did the truck shut off and then you had the message for low oil pressure?
@@Patman03sprcrw it hesitates like it wants to turn off then eventually it turns off
Link to the kit ?
The best price I could find was through American trucks. Updating description now....
I installed these on my truck but it give me a different codes. What I search in the website is that these don’t go in regular trucks. These VCT High strength solenoids are met for racing not for driving on regular streets or highways. So DO NOT install these on any 5.0 coyote engine not unless you have a racing car. These will give you a code P0137 on bank 1 and they will give you a second code P0157 on bank 2 these codes are referring to O2 sensors.
Oxygen sensor circuit codes have nothing to do with VCT circuits.
I've used these on two different 5.0s with no issues. This video is already over a year old and the owner of the truck I talk to about once a week.
Please don't comment with inaccurate information
It possible you left something disconnected? engine ground maybe? or pinched wiring putting the valve covers back on?
Dude I just replaced them with the original ones from ford and the codes went away.
I live in Cali so I don’t if that has to do with my truck.
If the seal for the solenoid is leaking can it be replaced from the top? Or does the cover have to come out.
Also what was the symptom that prompted the solenoid replacement?
I don't believe seals are serviceable with the cover still on.
Symptoms was mostly rough idle, minor reduced lower response
Thanks for the reply
Awesome job! you made it look simple, not worth 3k in my opinion.
yea the solenoids are pretty easy to swap out, It gets more complicated if you get into replacing the cam phasers
@@Patman03sprcrw I snapped a spark plug screw flush any advice?
@@LewGQ pull the coil over the broken bolt and maybe see if you can get some pliers on it? If its flush flush in the valve cover they aren't terribly expensive to replace
@@Patman03sprcrwI'm a little intimidated by the heater hoses being in the way. I would honestly like to remove them during the repair/installation. The code only said bank two, so I still have a shaky idle, so I had better change the other side. It's Not nearly as bad as before.
@@LewGQ nothing "wrong" with the choice to pull the heater hose 👌
Not looking forward to doing this to my mustang
I haven't done them in a Mustang yet ,but I can't imagine they are that much different than the F150 procedure. minor fitment differences