I'm thinking of getting a set of these for my '14 F150. I did see this note (below) on a website saying to use for for competition only. Apparently it could violate some emissions regulation. I don't understand how these would affect emissions. I also don't know who would be racing an F150. Anyway, I've got a P0022 code with reduced MPG and throttle power when accelerating. It feels like it's shaking the entire engine when accelerating. If they're not harming the truck I'll use them. "This part is designed and intended for competition use only. It should not be installed on a vehicle that is driven on public roads and highways. Installation of this art on a vehicle driven on public roads and highways is likely to violate U.S. and Canadian laws and regulations relating to motor vehicle emissions."
I have a 2019 F150 5.0 with just under 126K miles. I had this done at the dealership under the extended warranty just over 100K miles. Now my truck has fluctuating RPMs under normal driving load. For example, if I'm driving 50mph the rpms fluctuate up and down. I don't have a CEL as I had before, but it looks like oil or something is seeping from one of the driver side VCT connection points on top of the valve cover. Does this seem like the most likely issue or is there something else I should look for? This was my first thought as to what could be the cause, but I wasn't expecting to see the oil or whatever it could be on top of the valve cover. I did have the oil changed about 500 miles ago so it could be they spilled oil on top of the cover, but I'm not 100% on that. What are your thoughts/advice?
I just got a quote from my Local ford dealer of $5000 to do this. $2200 in parts and $2300 in labor, plus some other bogus charges and tax. My truck is running like total crap now. Is this all there is to it? I can buy Fords parts for about $200 and do it in about a half day myself ????
They might have quoted the camshaft actuators too for that kind of price, you're almost in reman engine territory at 5k lol And yes this job is that easy if this is all you need to do.
@@Patman03sprcrw ...so, my truck has 126k miles on it. I have always used full synthetic oil in it and always replaced it at 5K miles. I really find it hard to believe that the chain and tensioner etc is worn out. I am just gonna replace the VCT's and hope for the best. What do you think?
@@Patman03sprcrw was on occasional stumble or misfire, and or stall while idling. Now rough running, some loss of power at takeoff, bucking when you are at cruise speed down the road, still will stall when stopped occasionally.
My 2016 F150 5.0 is making a valve knock at slow acceleration on low RPMs, and then it goes away. Fast acceleration doesn't make any knocking or noise. Also, at idle, it has the typical piston slack. These issues don't always duplicate. Do you believe replacing the solenoids will fix it? PS: No fail codes found.
Yes valve covers need to come off. Don't think there is a shortcut around that much. The valvecover bolts them selves are available, so you can get replacement if you can get the bolt out
@@Patman03sprcrw my truck has random stumbles and rough idle intermittently, sometimes it will die but no check engine light. I’m tempted to replace vct solenoids
@@tylervanbooven5764my buddy and I are having the same problems with both our trucks. I think I’m going to get my done first and see. I’ve had it in multiple times and this is what the shop is thinking. The quote I got was $560
Interesting... I don't think it's worth wasting coolant and all that mess, and a potential leak down the road. But if you're due for a coolant flush, you could do two birds with one stone 👍
I would remove them. They're up high so I doubt you would lose much coolant. I would gladly undo two hose clamps and replace a bit of coolant to have one less thing to fight with.
I could have removed the heater hoses, then I would have added coolant cost, and more labor to bleed the coolant, as well as risking breaking a quick connector at the firewall. Generally techs like to work around stuff if possible instead of removing everything. Time = Money
I installed these on my truck but it give me a different codes. What I search in the website is that these don’t go in regular trucks. These VCT High strength solenoids are met for racing not for driving on regular streets or highways. So DO NOT install these on any 5.0 coyote engine not unless you have a racing car. These will give you a code P0137 on bank 1 and they will give you a second code P0157 on bank 2 these codes are referring to O2 sensors.
Oxygen sensor circuit codes have nothing to do with VCT circuits. I've used these on two different 5.0s with no issues. This video is already over a year old and the owner of the truck I talk to about once a week. Please don't comment with inaccurate information
If the seal for the solenoid is leaking can it be replaced from the top? Or does the cover have to come out. Also what was the symptom that prompted the solenoid replacement?
A+ thank you for showing us laypeople the techniques man. We appreciate you
you're welcome!!
I'm thinking of getting a set of these for my '14 F150. I did see this note (below) on a website saying to use for for competition only. Apparently it could violate some emissions regulation. I don't understand how these would affect emissions. I also don't know who would be racing an F150. Anyway, I've got a P0022 code with reduced MPG and throttle power when accelerating. It feels like it's shaking the entire engine when accelerating. If they're not harming the truck I'll use them.
"This part is designed and intended for competition use only. It should not be installed on a vehicle that is driven on public roads and highways. Installation of this art on a vehicle driven on public roads and highways is likely to violate U.S. and Canadian laws and regulations relating to motor vehicle emissions."
I have a 2019 F150 5.0 with just under 126K miles. I had this done at the dealership under the extended warranty just over 100K miles. Now my truck has fluctuating RPMs under normal driving load. For example, if I'm driving 50mph the rpms fluctuate up and down. I don't have a CEL as I had before, but it looks like oil or something is seeping from one of the driver side VCT connection points on top of the valve cover. Does this seem like the most likely issue or is there something else I should look for? This was my first thought as to what could be the cause, but I wasn't expecting to see the oil or whatever it could be on top of the valve cover. I did have the oil changed about 500 miles ago so it could be they spilled oil on top of the cover, but I'm not 100% on that. What are your thoughts/advice?
I feel like Ford would have done the camshaft actuators (cam gears) not the cam solenoids. Do you have a parts invoice for the repairs made?
I just got a quote from my Local ford dealer of $5000 to do this. $2200 in parts and $2300 in labor, plus some other bogus charges and tax. My truck is running like total crap now. Is this all there is to it? I can buy Fords parts for about $200 and do it in about a half day myself ????
They might have quoted the camshaft actuators too for that kind of price, you're almost in reman engine territory at 5k lol
And yes this job is that easy if this is all you need to do.
@@Patman03sprcrw ...so, my truck has 126k miles on it. I have always used full synthetic oil in it and always replaced it at 5K miles. I really find it hard to believe that the chain and tensioner etc is worn out. I am just gonna replace the VCT's and hope for the best. What do you think?
Whats the symptoms? Random stumble? Loss of throttle respons?
@@Patman03sprcrw was on occasional stumble or misfire, and or stall while idling. Now rough running, some loss of power at takeoff, bucking when you are at cruise speed down the road, still will stall when stopped occasionally.
@@jds5355 sounds about right. Let's start with the solenoids 👍
Great video....Thank you
BTW......Why did you replace the solenoids anyway ?
We replaced the VCT Solenoids because he had an occasional stumble at idle, and had a little bit slower throttle response
Heard removing dipstick is difficult. Any tips to remove without breaking it ?
Soaking glass cleaner or penetrating oil. Release the tab and gentle wiggle off/on back and forth until it starts to move
rip it out like a lawn mower
Push it down and twist counter clockwise
Did he say anything bout the dipstick
My 2016 F150 5.0 is making a valve knock at slow acceleration on low RPMs, and then it goes away. Fast acceleration doesn't make any knocking or noise. Also, at idle, it has the typical piston slack.
These issues don't always duplicate.
Do you believe replacing the solenoids will fix it?
PS: No fail codes found.
sounds like a low grade misfire on acceleration. You still have OEM/Ford/Motorcraft plugs and coils in it?
Did you have to take the grown in the valve cover in the back ? my bolt is stripped 😢
Yes valve covers need to come off. Don't think there is a shortcut around that much. The valvecover bolts them selves are available, so you can get replacement if you can get the bolt out
What was that hissing noise when you started her back up and looked under the hood?
I dont hear anything unusual in the video? either hearing the electric cooling fans, or hearing the vacuum manifold on the driver side of the engine
What's the science behind using glass cleaner for seals and connectors?
its provides lubrication for install and dries cleanly
Are both the VCT Solenoid Bolts and Valve Cover Bolts are 10-11 foot pounds? I am reading up that they are different.
yes that sounds right. I can double check tho
I did both as 11fts lbs in the video
haha i did mine not to long ago it wasnt too bad, is that derricks? i remember he was asking if i would do his as well
yup that's Derek's truck
I might have missed it but what symptoms was the truck having?
random stumble at idle. lacking throttle tip in response
@@Patman03sprcrw my truck has random stumbles and rough idle intermittently, sometimes it will die but no check engine light. I’m tempted to replace vct solenoids
Could also be leaking purge valve if it struggles to start immediately after refueling. I'll have a video out about that in a few weeks
@@tylervanbooven5764my buddy and I are having the same problems with both our trucks. I think I’m going to get my done first and see. I’ve had it in multiple times and this is what the shop is thinking. The quote I got was $560
Let me ask you something, does this car also have the variable valve timing solenoids that are not rounded?
the VCT solenoid is round body as seen in this video, or are you talking about something else?
Must be talking about the 3.5 engine maybe. This is the 5.0 v8.
How has the truck treat you thing about buying 5.0
Gen2 is they way to go, 2015-2017 is super reliable overall
Hayes manual says take the heater hoses off.
Interesting... I don't think it's worth wasting coolant and all that mess, and a potential leak down the road.
But if you're due for a coolant flush, you could do two birds with one stone 👍
I would remove them. They're up high so I doubt you would lose much coolant. I would gladly undo two hose clamps and replace a bit of coolant to have one less thing to fight with.
It's a preference thing, but thanks for the comment!
Why couldn't you just remove the heater hoses instead of fighting with them ?
I could have removed the heater hoses, then I would have added coolant cost, and more labor to bleed the coolant, as well as risking breaking a quick connector at the firewall. Generally techs like to work around stuff if possible instead of removing everything. Time = Money
Link to the kit ?
The best price I could find was through American trucks. Updating description now....
I installed these on my truck but it give me a different codes. What I search in the website is that these don’t go in regular trucks. These VCT High strength solenoids are met for racing not for driving on regular streets or highways. So DO NOT install these on any 5.0 coyote engine not unless you have a racing car. These will give you a code P0137 on bank 1 and they will give you a second code P0157 on bank 2 these codes are referring to O2 sensors.
Oxygen sensor circuit codes have nothing to do with VCT circuits.
I've used these on two different 5.0s with no issues. This video is already over a year old and the owner of the truck I talk to about once a week.
Please don't comment with inaccurate information
It possible you left something disconnected? engine ground maybe? or pinched wiring putting the valve covers back on?
Dude I just replaced them with the original ones from ford and the codes went away.
I live in Cali so I don’t if that has to do with my truck.
If the seal for the solenoid is leaking can it be replaced from the top? Or does the cover have to come out.
Also what was the symptom that prompted the solenoid replacement?
I don't believe seals are serviceable with the cover still on.
Symptoms was mostly rough idle, minor reduced lower response
Thanks for the reply
Not looking forward to doing this to my mustang
I haven't done them in a Mustang yet ,but I can't imagine they are that much different than the F150 procedure. minor fitment differences
What you doin with that new edge ????
little Coyote swap action. its up next on the channel