@@GarageNoiseI've come to realize that it's better to seal of the bare metal with epoxy primer then scuff it with 100 grit without cuttin to the metal before applying filler , then spot spray epoxy on any exposed metal after the final defining of ur work, and apply the filling primer after the epoxy has flashed.
@ttdred Over all is it better, I would agree. On a daily driver, it's in my opinion not nessasary for the small difference in corrosion protection. If you are restoring a vehicle I would definitely use epoxy before filler. Appreciate the comment!
Always enjoying your tutorials. Thank you. Question, how do you address chipping paint over old bodywork? The chip area appears to be expanding? How do I prevent future issues?
I have several projects I want to do but haven't had the time. A 74 260z and a nova project. Both are my own projects. I do however have a full paint restoration on a 87 chevy truck that will be on the channel very soon! Appreciate the support!
How would you go about fixing edge mapping after the primer is sprayed down? I ask because I thought i had featheredged properly but I can see some edge mapping underneath the urethane primer surfacer.
I really could have used Ethier one. I just wanted to demo options, the honey is nice because if you need your filler a little thicker than glaze you can kinda customize you body filler to suit your needs. Appreciate the comment and support!
Sorry this question isn’t related to the video but I recently acquired an air compressor that has sat for a while and had moisture and rusty water when I drained it. Can I still use this compressor for painting jobs. I’m wanting to attempt my first paint Jolson soon and I love your helpful videos. Thanks
I think it will be fine if you get a filtration system. You definitely need to filter the air. In my amazon storefront there is one that It's use not expensive . Also you can find others on Amazon. I would also use a water trap just before your paint gun. amzn.to/3dyXC2W amzn.to/3BPrNfH Here's a couple examples. Appreciate the support!
Yes, 4:1 no reducer with the 1.4 tip on the 3m gun. The upol is a pretty thick primer. I have ruduced this primer and it works well reduced. I've also used it as a sealer with a 4:1:1 ratio. Hopes this helps appreciate the comment and support!
Hello! My name is Vadim! I have been painting cars professionally for 20 years and learn something new. I do my job quickly and efficiently. I work with different products. I am talented in my profession! If you need high-level specialists, I can work for you part time. Let me know please!
Here's a link amzn.to/3Cya8IJ You can also find the materials and tools I use in my Amazon storefront the link is in the description of all videos. Appreciate the comment and support!
I’m planning on painting my car in my garage. Will be my first paint job. I had a question about primer. I will not be able to do this job quickly. It will likely take me a few weeks to get the bodywork ready. When I sand down to bare metal do I need to primer it right away or can it sit in the garage for a while and get primered all at once? If it has to be primered right away do I use an epoxee or self etching primer?
You don't want it to sit in bare metal. It starts rusting immediately even if you don't see it. What I would do is strip and primer one panel at a time in epoxy primer. You can do body work right over epoxy. It will take some time to cure. Follow you technical data sheet on the primer. This way your bare metal is not exposed at all and a vehicle can sit in epoxy for a long time and it won't hurt a thing. Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know.
I haven't got that far in this video but I use 320 on primer the 600 before paint. Depends on the situation weather I will use sealer or not. Appreciate the comment and support!
Man I just saw you on TikTok and had to come see the full video! You got yourself another sub
Appreciate it brother! Welcome to the community!
Perfect timing. I'm at work 👍🏻
Love these videos, very informative, very helpful and interesting
Thank's brother appreciate the comment and support!
you are definitely my go to guy when I do my body work is always nice to have some idea of what to do you explain everything so well
Thank's brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
Thank you sir for your time to help out the community 🙏. I love watching over body work techniques. It's good to keep learning!
You are very welcome
@@GarageNoiseI've come to realize that it's better to seal of the bare metal with epoxy primer then scuff it with 100 grit without cuttin to the metal before applying filler , then spot spray epoxy on any exposed metal after the final defining of ur work, and apply the filling primer after the epoxy has flashed.
@ttdred Over all is it better, I would agree. On a daily driver, it's in my opinion not nessasary for the small difference in corrosion protection. If you are restoring a vehicle I would definitely use epoxy before filler. Appreciate the comment!
Thanks for that video looking good
You bet!
Thank you so much for great video!
Other great video. I made my blocks with acrylic and the handle with Duck tape and work amazing and cheap brother
Nice work, thanks
Appreciate it Randy!
Always enjoying your tutorials. Thank you.
Question, how do you address chipping paint over old bodywork? The chip area appears to be expanding? How do I prevent future issues?
It's probably a crack if it's expanding. The only reai way to repair it is to grind out the old filler and re work it. Appreciate the support!
Any video in the future on vintage cars body repair and approaches.. thanks
I have several projects I want to do but haven't had the time. A 74 260z and a nova project. Both are my own projects. I do however have a full paint restoration on a 87 chevy truck that will be on the channel very soon! Appreciate the support!
How would you go about fixing edge mapping after the primer is sprayed down? I ask because I thought i had featheredged properly but I can see some edge mapping underneath the urethane primer surfacer.
Why do you use the honey to thin the filler instead of using glaze? Thanks for the videos
I really could have used Ethier one. I just wanted to demo options, the honey is nice because if you need your filler a little thicker than glaze you can kinda customize you body filler to suit your needs. Appreciate the comment and support!
Sorry this question isn’t related to the video but I recently acquired an air compressor that has sat for a while and had moisture and rusty water when I drained it. Can I still use this compressor for painting jobs. I’m wanting to attempt my first paint Jolson soon and I love your helpful videos. Thanks
I think it will be fine if you get a filtration system. You definitely need to filter the air. In my amazon storefront there is one that It's use not expensive . Also you can find others on Amazon. I would also use a water trap just before your paint gun.
amzn.to/3dyXC2W
amzn.to/3BPrNfH
Here's a couple examples. Appreciate the support!
@@GarageNoise thank you!
Did you only do a 4:1 on the primer. So no reducer for the high build. Thanks
Yes, 4:1 no reducer with the 1.4 tip on the 3m gun. The upol is a pretty thick primer. I have ruduced this primer and it works well reduced. I've also used it as a sealer with a 4:1:1 ratio. Hopes this helps appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise I have used it as a sealer, it has held up well so far,its in the tds in case anyone asks
Hello! My name is Vadim! I have been painting cars professionally for 20 years and learn something new. I do my job quickly and efficiently. I work with different products. I am talented in my profession! If you need high-level specialists, I can work for you part time. Let me know please!
👍
Hi where do you get theses flexible longboards used for sanding please?
Here's a link
amzn.to/3Cya8IJ
You can also find the materials and tools I use in my Amazon storefront the link is in the description of all videos. Appreciate the comment and support!
I’m planning on painting my car in my garage. Will be my first paint job. I had a question about primer. I will not be able to do this job quickly. It will likely take me a few weeks to get the bodywork ready. When I sand down to bare metal do I need to primer it right away or can it sit in the garage for a while and get primered all at once? If it has to be primered right away do I use an epoxee or self etching primer?
You don't want it to sit in bare metal. It starts rusting immediately even if you don't see it. What I would do is strip and primer one panel at a time in epoxy primer. You can do body work right over epoxy. It will take some time to cure. Follow you technical data sheet on the primer. This way your bare metal is not exposed at all and a vehicle can sit in epoxy for a long time and it won't hurt a thing. Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know.
Did you use a 400 or 600 to block out the primer ? Also did you use a sealer ? Thank you…
I haven't got that far in this video but I use 320 on primer the 600 before paint. Depends on the situation weather I will use sealer or not. Appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise thank you there must be more to the video sorry guess I trying to get ahead of the class lol…
So is that bondo
Yes, it is
You might want to use a mask. That Bondo is killer!
👍