How To Install A Battery Meter On A Golf Cart
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- Опубліковано 11 лис 2015
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It's important to know the "state of charge" on a Golf Cart. That information lets you know if the batteries needs charging, if they are still performing well, and if you have enough power to finish whatever task you want the cart to do for the day.
For me, one of the best tools I have is a Battery Meter. Yes, I could hook up a volt meter every time I want to use the cart, and maybe test it again after I use the cart, to monitor the remaining voltage ... but that would be a hassle.
Installing a Battery Meter on the Golf Cart, gives me (at a glance) all the info I need to monitor the batteries on the Golf Cart.
Installing a Golf Cart Battery Monitor ... Check it out !
alan
homesteadadvisor.com
Here's a link to a 12v to 48v Waterproof Volt Meter:
amzn.to/32dAcXm
Shop ALL Amazon from this link:
homesteadadvisor.com/amazon-st...
Funny you posted this- was looking at a golf cart for the property and noticed the lack of a meter then asked an electronics friend about this. Thanks for the post!
I learn SO much from your videos! Thanks!!!
Thank you sir! Great video and very helpful to me! I will probably do mine exactly like you did yours. I recently bought an old Club Car ds, 2002 model just to piddle with and since I'm 82 and not a Golfer your video is a blessing to me. Thank you again and God bless you.😊😊
Glad it helped
Thanks for explaining this so simply. I'm definitely a beginner when it comes to this stuff. This video really helped. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Much appreciated. When you connect it directly to the battery though, isn't it on 24/7, even when the golf cart is off?
Yes, it's on all the time, but it's LED so it uses a very small amount of current.
I like it to be on all the time, so when I walk by it I can see the state of charge at a glance.
Thanks for some great pointers!
I've got 3 - 72 volt batteries connected in parallel through a bus-bar, so I may connect directly to that, but I'm wondering if my wire harness for my controller/ignition key have would provide a voltage reading. I'll have to check that with a volt meter because that would be a nice way to run the wire (even if it would turn off with the ignition).
Also, after buying some nice terminals & butt connectors with heat shrink and a ratchet crimping tool, I would highly recommend using butt connectors instead of "twist splicing" any wires. The tool with a set of 500 connectors cost me a total of $70, but now any of my low-voltage wiring should withstand the test of time (and weather).
Yes, some good butt connectors would be a good idea... thanks!
Love the video & love the verse in Proverbs even more
Thanks so much! 😊
Good information I just need to get a golf cart now. LOL!!! I some how keep getting unsubscribed from your channel but I just re subscribed.
I got to get myself some of those Nickel Iron batteries that can last basically forever (with maintenance). Probably no good for golf carts but great for solar.
Thanks for the vid
Very informative, I like how you use stuff on hand to complete the installation.
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching Pete!
hello good video I also have a lifted ezgo its a 36volt model with large tires like yours in the video. I was wondering how the power is? driving going up hills maybe pulling a jetski and trailer etc... im thinking mine has a issue sometimes it goes really slow almost not moving like it has dead batteries but if I take my foot off the pedal and put it to the floor it will go faster almost like a speed sensor or pedal sensor is bad?
I was having similar problems. Mine needed new batteries (they were about 8 years old) $650
Then I had to have a new controller (or something). It was expensive, but it's running like a new one. (around $1000)
Find a good (honest) cart shop and see if they give free estimates.
alan
homesteadadvisor.com/
I did the same on my DRZ400 motorcycle. Mainly I did it to detect if/ when the stator charging system is failing ( a known fault with this model). I decided to connect to the battery terminals for the same reason that when it is visible in the shed, you tend to look at it more often. The tiny amount of parasitic draw the LED takes is negligible. I know from experience that the digital speedometer on the DRZ400 has a parasitic draw that will slowly drain the battery when sitting idle.
Similarly from recent experience with my golf cart (EZGO 48V), the rear most battery is above the rear wheels and gets dirty on the top quickly. Once it gets moist this slimy deposit becomes a source of parasitic draw on your battery. Eventually this battery will decline in health and start to affect the others in the battery bank. My cart became harder and harder to charge fully and went less distance per charge, until one day it stopped on the course. I took an educated guess that the rear battery had failed and put my car emergency battery in parallel with this battery and off the cart went.
Assuming that it was time to replace the battery bank, I ordered 4 new 12V batteries ( deep cycle). Man they weigh about 48 Kg each! Just out of curiosity I decided to recharge each battery to assess if some of them might be worth keeping as back ups. To my surprise they all took a charge ( used a Ctek smart charger) and my digital multimeter showed they have resting Voltage at around 12.5 V. I doubted that they were all healthy, so I bought a Solar BA-9 ? battery tester. Now deep cycle batteries don't seem to come with a CCA ( cold cranking amps) rating like car batteries. I dug around on You Tube and finally found a golf cart maintenance guy who gave me a clue. I worked out using his information that my 155AH batteries should give me about 450 CCA. You have to be very sure that you have a good terminal connection when using the Solar BA-9 to avoid errors. It was confusing in that the meter told me that all the batteries passed the CCA at 450 level, but when I used the up arrow it gives a state of Health % and a State of Charge%. This was the way I could identify the poor battery. It was the one that lost charge the quickest and had a SOH reading lower that 90% ( it was 80%)
So my message is that having a Voltmeter in the cart is useful, there is more to it than having well charged batteries. I could have saved myself the cost of three batteries, but the physical effort of removing the rear most battery ( the other three come out first) is such that I think when one goes the others can't be that far away from failing. There are a lot of You Tubers showing how to drain the acid/ add Epsom salts and spend ages electronically pulsing the sulfated plates. These all seem dangerous and time consuming to me, for unpredictable outcomes.
Yes, most deep cycle batts have AH not CCA
Thanks for all the good info!!
Thanks bud great walk through
You're supposed to take us for a ride after you get it all installed : ). Great vid thanks for sharin.
Q
Hi, you did not mention if you installed a inline fuse for your meter, if you didn't I highly recommend you install one cause if you have a short on the meter wires you will have the full batteries amperage going in those wires and they will melt and even could start a fire. just saying for the cause of safety ;)
Why not include key so it’s not always on
i think you can put that to te two way key switch so when you turn on you stay on
@@cuauhtemocsandoval3444 jjIhl)
Vid was hard to watch in getting to the point, but we got there. Thank you sir.
Glad to help.
Thanks for the video!!
My meter is showing half way after charging for 24hrs.. just drive it for like an hr with lights on and it didnt move
Could the meter be bad ?
I've never used one of those kinds of meters.
That's why I like this kind. It shows the exact voltage.
I would suggest you go get a cheap volt meter to check the exact voltage: amzn.to/2lphas6
I have the same cart and wiring the gauge to the key is hard to reach and took a while. You have to wire it to the correct spade fitting on the back of the key switch or it will not turn off when the key is off. I have the gauge with 10 red bars that shows the level of the batteries. I hope your pond is still full. Bernard
+navajopa31
I may try to wire it on the ignition, but if it's too hard to fish the wires I'll probably leave it like it is.
Pond is full and running around the spillway :)
+TexasPrepper2 My led power gauge had 3 connectors. The two marked -&+ at the top went to the batteries - &+ and the 3rd one was on the bottom went to the key switch. Once I took the ignition switch loose I tired a string to it because it tends to fall down to the back of the cart lights and you have to fish it back up. After I did mine I talked to a guy at the cart shop on how to do this job and he said he just removed the 4 drink cup holder for easier access. Learn something new every day! Since mine was done I have not tried to remover the drink holder. It looks like the drink holder has 3 quick release tabs on the top and the bottom has 3. Using a putty knife to push the upper ones down and the unit should come off. Thin plastic so too much force might break it. The ignition switch has two spade connectors and you will have to test which one would be off and on with the key. On mine I just cut that wire leaving the spade connector attached to the switch and used an in line crimp connector to add the power gauge to the switch. You could solder it in and use electric tape. The accessory wires on the carts are really small gauge. Bernard
I know you stated that the power pull on the meter is minuscule but I was wondering if you could just wire this through the ignition switch so the volt meter would only be active when the cart is in the on position. I only ask since I am looking for a cart for our farm but I know that it would sit for weeks or even a month or two without ever being used.
Great video!
+jaddington82
Yep... no reason that you couldn't wire through the ignition switch.
I thought about that AFTER I had already done this...
So, I may go back and wire it that way... IF I can get to the ignition switch wires with no trouble.
+TexasPrepper2 Or you could just wire a momentary push switch or even a toggle switch in front of the volt meter. That way to check the voltage, all you have to do is push a button and in the mean time it's not draining any power. Love your vids and want to come buy some blackberry plants from you one of these days.
NO, the ON/OFF key on an electric golf cart isn't an 'ignition key'! On an older model with NO meter at all (my 2004 has a charge meter and batt lamp), the switch just allows the relays to energize.
@@QuantumRift So meter from the switch wouldn't work?? 🤔
@@POLOAZTECA You would to know what voltage is on what wires. The entire 48V does not go thru the on/off switch. As stated, when turned "on", it allows the relay's top energize and allows the "gas" pedal to allow more current to the motor as you depress it. I would add another wire and a relay that, when the key is "on", it allows current to the relay which would let the full voltage top be measured across the batts.
I wonder if it'll be too hard to pick up the hot coming from the key that way it will only turn on when u turn on the key....
I just wanted to have it on all the time so that when I walked by it, I could monitor it at a glance.
@@BIGALTX I see... 👍
🤦♂️
Thank you; this video was helpful with the installation of a battery meter on my wife's golf cart; thanks again. =>
Glad it helped
Why not connect a toggle switch for on and off..??
I like the fact that I can walk past it in the shed and see the charge without having to turn it on...
You can also go to the key with the positive lead then to the battery
How is that state of charge meter doing, is it still working it for you, how long did it work for?
I killed one of them when I washed my cart and had to replace, but they should last for years :)
What should my batteries voltage be when they are in a low state. Fully charged i get 40 volts. When will it be considered low?
I usually will charge when they get below 37 Volts
Not sure if that's correct or not, but it's what I do...
@@BIGALTX ok mine went down to 34 volts yesterday and started acting wonky.
You're explaining it very simple
Hahahah... I'm a simple guy 😎
Would a fuse in B+ wire be a good idea?
Not sure, but having a fuse is never a "Bad" idea
Can't hurt
Well done video thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
I purchased the same volt meter. Is it normal to go from full charge to 33 volts when gas is pushed, and when stopped it goes back to 38?
That's what my cart does too.
I think it's normal
+TexasPrepper2 - I have a 2002 Club Car and it has a small orange battery light on the dash. If I got a voltmeter could I replace the battery light with the meter? Thanks
Hmmmm... not sure... but probably.
No, you cannot replace that light with a meter. The LAMP does not indicate voltage! That light is illuminated by a command from the onboard compouter. That is the "battery warning light". I have a 2004 Club Car DS Power Drive (48v) System. I just put 6 new Duracel Ultra 8V batts in it. THe following is from the manual, regarding this LIGHT:
BATTERY WARNING LIGHT:
PowerDrive System 48 and IQ System Electric Vehicles Only
PowerDrive System 48 and IQ System vehicles feature a dash-mounted warning light (above steering column) that, when the vehicle is in operation, indicates low battery voltage or, when the vehicle is being charged, indicates a charging problem. The battery warning light is controlled by the onboard computer.
When the vehicle is in operation, the warning light will illuminate and remain illuminated if:
• Batteries’ voltage drops below 48 volts when there is no load on the batteries (the vehicle is stopped and there are no accessories on).
• Batteries have discharged to less than 25% of rated capacity.
If the warning light illuminates when the vehicle is operating, there will be enough power remaining to drive the vehicle for approximately 30 minutes. However, the vehicle should be charged at the first opportunity. If the warning light illuminates and the vehicle is unable to operate for 30 minutes, have your Club Car distributor/dealer check the vehicle for a possible battery or electrical system problem.
When the batteries receive an incomplete charge because 1) the DC power cord is disconnected, 2) AC power to the charger is interrupted, 3) automatic charger shut-off occurs after 16 hours of operation, or 4) the charger malfunctions, the warning light will indicate as follows:
• The warning light will not illuminate if the charge is 90% or more complete. The onboard computer will retain in memory the amount of charge needed to fully replenish the batteries and will complete the charge during the next charge cycle.
• When the charger is unplugged, the warning light will illuminate and remain illuminated for 10 seconds if the charge is less than 90% complete but the vehicle has enough power for approximately 30 minutes of operation. This will alert the operator that the vehicle may be used, but that it must be charged to
completion as soon as possible.
• The warning light will repeatedly illuminate for 10 seconds, with 4 second intervals if the charger times out at 16 hours and the batteries are not sufficiently charged. See the battery charger owner’s manual. This indicates an abnormal charge cycle. The charger and batteries should be checked by your Club Car distributor/dealer.
• The warning light will repeatedly illuminate for 10 seconds, with 4 second intervals during a charge cycle (DC plug is still connected) if AC power to the charger is interrupted. The light will go out when AC power is restored.
LED Light: In addition to the warning light, there is an infrared LED in the dash light assembly, which transmits an infrared signal from the onboard computer (OBC). This signal is received by the optional Communication Display Module (CCI P/N 101831801), which provides information on the condition of the vehicle and batteries.
Hope this helps.
@@QuantumRift Thanks for sharing this info...
@@POLOAZTECAYea it clears up a lot of mystery about that orange light.
Is there a reason you didn't put a fuse on the positive side of this circuit.
+Richard Bertram Well, I really didn't think about a fuse... but like I said in the vid... the amperage that the LED meter draws is so small, I don't think a fuse is necessary.
If the heavier wire you used went to ground, from wearing against the frame or something like that, things could get pretty hot. The smaller wire you used would act like a fuse and burn up at fairly low amperage, but the heavier stuff near the battery could carry a fair amount of current before burning up. You are right, the load of the meter is insignificant, but it is the possible unintentional grounding that is of concern. One of your viewers may use a size 12 or 14 wire to complete the circuit, and in that case serious current, heat, and possible fire could result from unintentional grounding. Those batteries have a HUGE!!!! amount of energy stored in them. Hope this helps.
+Richard Bertram
You're right... didn't think about someone else using a large wire, and having problems.
if I run 14 or 16 guage wire what kind of fuse do I need to use? is there a specific size?
What year is the cart on the video?
I think it's a 2006
I have a 93 golf Cart it has 6 batteries to batteries they need to be replaced and I cannot afford $1200 Any suggestions The batteries that are in there are swollen Will not charge
Shop around.
I replaced mine a couple of years ago for about $800 I think.
They might have gone up more than I think, though.
Also, you can sell your old batteries to a recycling/junk metal dealer.
When I sold mine they were about 20 cents per pound.
Considering they weigh about 80 LBS full of water... that's quite a lot.
Where can I get one of those meters
Here are some on Amazon: amzn.to/31rDWWd
I like the digital ones best... like this one: amzn.to/2YrsxDL
Very useful and I'll be adding one to my ebike! Thanks alot!
I’m confused. Yo have a 36 volt cart. The volt meter read 35.5 and you need to charge the batteries? I don’t know anything about these things, but assumed if the number was low, it would need a charge. Help!
35.5 volts means it needs charging.
When fully charged it's around 37.7 volts
Great video
Thanks, Cathy!
Does the volt meter always stay on?
Mine does, because I wanted to be able to walk by it and see the charge.
If you wire to the key, you can make it only come on when key is on
Thx for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Excellent HOW TO do it. And, I'll tell you, I need simple:) :)
Hahaha... me too! :)
If you don't want it on all the time, just run one wire thru the key switch so it comes on only when you turn the key to on.
Thanks for the tip!
You can also split the red wire with a toggle switch mounted on the dash by the meter.
@@BIGALTX
Where did you get this battery meter ? Do you have a link of part number ?
Here's a link: amzn.to/31qpagx
Why don't hook it up to some solar panels on the roof to charge it?
+Cayla fenton
I've thought about that. I'd need 3 12v panels to give me the 36v the batts need.
However, I keep in under a shed, so I wouldn't be charging most of the time.
TexasPrepper2 but it would be charging when you're out and about so it would stay charged...that's my plan
ed moon Hey Ed, did you ever install the solar panels on your cart? Super idea for sure
You could have just wired it off the ignition switch and a neg pole
Yep, that’s another way to do it
how long do these LEDs last
Not sure... but LED's usually last a LONG time.
how about a scooter?
You forgot to add a fuse
👍🏻😎
How come you cannot view the replies?
There are 50 comments on this video.
I don't know why you can't see them, but I can.
You (video guy) call it a "well"... I call it a dash din. 😊😉😉😉
👍😎
now tell me how to install a volt meter in a low speed automobile
Don't know... I've never done it... sorry
technology productions 2017 same thing...a golf cart is a low speed vehicle
is I not for a radio but for golfballs
This guy don't know voltage from amperage
can anyone on youtube get to the point without rambling?