Thank you so much for showing the hard, dusty, rusty stuff! Now, I feel more confident about doing mine. I had to deal with broken off coils recently and this reminds me a lot of that, but you show how to fight it if it happens. A much needed version of this repair. Thanks again!
Mr. Dach, Your video is spot on. I just finished replacing the 11 year old left rear speed sensor on my 2011 ML350 4MATIC. I recommend using a small drill bit (1/16" or 3/32") to drill out the edges of the sensor body. If the internal wires have sheared and you can't use them to apply a subtle pull on the sensor as you work it out with a small straight screwdriver, you can use the drill to remove the material between the upper and lower sides of the sensor. This technique should leave you with a (not too) thin tab of plastic atop the sensor insert that you will be able to grasp with a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. Using the pliers, gently tug and twist the remaining sensor body to loosen it. You may need to use the small screwdriver to rock the sensor body to and fro to loosen the sensor body. A bit of PB Blaster or brake clean fluid and a blast of compressed air will also help to remove the residual debris from the drilling. Once you have drilled out the upper tapered part of the sensor, you should be able to slide the sensor body in and out a bit at which point you should be able to remove it. A tiny bit of anti-seize compound at the tapered end of the replacement sensor will keep things from seizing up if there is a next time.
Yessir! A rather simple in process, but challenging in actuality, especially with some Minnesota life under her belt! I've replaced others with no issue, and just as you've described. No such luck here, but my Father was quite pleased he did not need to spend $$$ at the dealer.
Rust and corrosion for sure. The fans got ticked off when I cleared all the codes and the modules were cycled - It lost track of the temp sensor and went into self-preservation mode :) BUT, all is well and my father is quite happy to NOT deal with the dealer hassle.
Any one got the exact part number ? I bought one but can’t seem to get it to work. Either doing it wrong or got the wrong one. Can’t get it to line up 🥴
This might be a good place to start - www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-abs-wheel-speed-sensor-rear-mer-1649058300 - I recall my father got his from the dealer due to timing when I would be there to replace it for him.
My car has a esp fault kick in while driving and loses power. After restart it will go back to normal. Will have the same fault on road every now and then.
@@charlestonlenz7452 Aah - Hope you get it resolved. I had something similar this spring on our ford, turned out to be a stone lodged between the rotor and brake shield!
@@charlestonlenz7452 I had the same thing happen to me not long after buying my ML350. The lights would come on as in this video but the brakes would engage and bring me to a stop...not much fun on a main road!! My garage replaced the front sensors and the issue went away. I have the lights back on again now (most likely the rears) but will attempt the job myself after watching this video.
Thank you so much for showing the hard, dusty, rusty stuff! Now, I feel more confident about doing mine. I had to deal with broken off coils recently and this reminds me a lot of that, but you show how to fight it if it happens. A much needed version of this repair. Thanks again!
Glad I could help! That's the worst part of those jobs, the rusty bits.
I have exactly the same lights but the engine light too. ML350 2010 Awesome video Thank you 🙏
Glad it helped
Glad you made this. 👍👍
Thank You!
Mr. Dach, Your video is spot on. I just finished replacing the 11 year old left rear speed sensor on my 2011 ML350 4MATIC. I recommend using a small drill bit (1/16" or 3/32") to drill out the edges of the sensor body. If the internal wires have sheared and you can't use them to apply a subtle pull on the sensor as you work it out with a small straight screwdriver, you can use the drill to remove the material between the upper and lower sides of the sensor. This technique should leave you with a (not too) thin tab of plastic atop the sensor insert that you will be able to grasp with a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. Using the pliers, gently tug and twist the remaining sensor body to loosen it. You may need to use the small screwdriver to rock the sensor body to and fro to loosen the sensor body. A bit of PB Blaster or brake clean fluid and a blast of compressed air will also help to remove the residual debris from the drilling. Once you have drilled out the upper tapered part of the sensor, you should be able to slide the sensor body in and out a bit at which point you should be able to remove it. A tiny bit of anti-seize compound at the tapered end of the replacement sensor will keep things from seizing up if there is a next time.
Yessir! A rather simple in process, but challenging in actuality, especially with some Minnesota life under her belt! I've replaced others with no issue, and just as you've described. No such luck here, but my Father was quite pleased he did not need to spend $$$ at the dealer.
Minnesota Benz in Florida... that explains the corrosion and engine fans on turbo 'cause the engine is already hot to begin with down there. 👍
Rust and corrosion for sure. The fans got ticked off when I cleared all the codes and the modules were cycled - It lost track of the temp sensor and went into self-preservation mode :) BUT, all is well and my father is quite happy to NOT deal with the dealer hassle.
Slide hammer works good with right screws to taking out wheel sensors
Excellent idea! Did not have one unfortunately at my folks place, but I bet it would work well!
Putting some wheel bearing grease on the drill bit helps catch most of the shavings
Great idea! Unfortunately there were almost zero tools much less grease to leverage.
Thanks
Hope it was helpful for you!
I changed all mines and the right abs sensor keep locking up when I try to drive the car
How did you find out that thats the wheel the bad sensor?
The ABS light popped on the dash, and a scan with my Autel Maxisys gave details on what sensor was failing.
how did you figured out on which wheel sensor was need it?
I used my Autel scanner and ran a diag on it.. it told me which sensor was the issue.
You can feel when yoı drive mate. . you will hear from abs and esp
Despues de cambiar el sensor fue necesario resetear con scanner para borrar la luz?
What model of Autel are you using ?
@@bernardzertuche7376 906BT
How do i fix. The gl350 diesel in not. Turning on after the wheel jammed and skid lights had come on. Friday in Florida
The car itself isn't turning on? I wonder if possibly it thinks it's stuck in gear and thus not starting.
Any one got the exact part number ? I bought one but can’t seem to get it to work. Either doing it wrong or got the wrong one. Can’t get it to line up 🥴
This might be a good place to start - www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-abs-wheel-speed-sensor-rear-mer-1649058300 - I recall my father got his from the dealer due to timing when I would be there to replace it for him.
Does it still drive if this sensor is broken?
My car has a esp fault kick in while driving and loses power. After restart it will go back to normal. Will have the same fault on road every now and then.
Yes, the car will drive, but things like cruise and ABS etc may be non-functional as it cannot track the speed of all 4 wheels.
My Car has the same problem but it just can't drive. Am trying to call for a fix.
Oh really? What is preventing it from driving?
@@DachsAutos driving slowly but having a cracking sound Like the break is engaging
@@charlestonlenz7452 Aah - Hope you get it resolved. I had something similar this spring on our ford, turned out to be a stone lodged between the rotor and brake shield!
@@charlestonlenz7452 I had the same thing happen to me not long after buying my ML350. The lights would come on as in this video but the brakes would engage and bring me to a stop...not much fun on a main road!! My garage replaced the front sensors and the issue went away. I have the lights back on again now (most likely the rears) but will attempt the job myself after watching this video.
I have the same peoblem. Car trying brake when ı go. After ı open air condintşın than not brake
Were you able to get your problem fixed?