Francisco- Love your stuff, and ADMIRE your stance/position/LOGIC for ending SONY relationship. Other: The main reason I DIDN'T go to HSS was exactly that.....power loss. Once I knew about HOW it works, the plus/minus aspects, I decided years ago to not go that route. I'm (still) old school, and use (mainly) a Norman 400B for on-location work- because bare-bulbs/direct, I get 400 watt-seconds. With cable splitters, I can run 3-4 heads if need be. As w/ all lights, shooting thru an umbrella, bouncing, or direct via a softbox are ALL going to REDUCE light output. So I begin w/ more power than I need- on purpose. And I use variable ND filters to play w/ "the math"....balancing ambient/F-stop, and flash output. That 400 w/s can easily now be a 200 w/s source, (-1 stop) just via diffusion/method/modifier. I also use alot of speedlights- and most are typically about 60w/s equivalent/Full, without any mods. That said: Here's what I love most about HSS and it's best practitioners: the ability to make most ANY background "work" by completely blowing out any distractions. In my own work it's the opposite: I'm trying to include a background/environmental element- to reinforce the portrait/subject. Example: I shot a project for a law office/attorneys...deliberately using bookcases/law books as the background element, slightly blurred out....but still connoting "law office", lawyers, etc.
Thank you for answering the question with numbers. So many videos say “you just lose power” but I wanted to know exactly how much for each of my lights.
No one uses a 200 W/S strobe to overpower the sun. Even at full strength, it's not usually enough. Using a 600 W/S strobe, even with HSS is powerful enough to overpower the sun. Having said that, I did use a Godox AD200pro once to overpower the sun, but I also had a +3 ND filter on the lens so I could lower the shutter speed and use normal sync rather than HSS.
IMO this method works really well on mirrorless systems. Camera has a tough time focusing with ND's on Canon cameras, being that it still utilizes the mirror. For Canon users I will say plan your shoots, early morning shoots whenever possible or later in the evening around golden hour. This will yield better results for us Canon operators.
Took 2 days for my STC filters to leve Taiwan and arrive at my place in Australia. Will be using them soon with my AD300 and AD200 Pro,looking forward to the results...
@@deenugent473 I bought the STC 6 stop (in Far North Queensland) when they first came out and found it was a little too much for my style of shooting, so bought a 3 stop which works perfectly. Extremely happy with my purchase(s).
I always use 70-200/2.8 for the portraits along with godox AD200pro and my usual camera setting would be at 200 mm, wide open, and at 1/400 shutter speed, so I am using HSS all the time. I use 1/400 shutter speed to compensate for camera shake while using telephoto lens because if I go anywhere below 250, I am taking a chance of not sharp pictures. I still using my D750 DSLR camera, not mirrorless ones which has inbody stabilization. What would you recommend for me? Highly appreciate your input and really an eye opener video. Thanks
Good question. I would say if you have enough power with the 200 Pro then you don't need to change a thing. But if you do need more power then I would suggest another 200 Pro or getting the 400 Pro. That will give you more power to work with so the loss in HSS won't be as bad as with the 200 Pro.
That's ok to lose some power as long as you are not reaching the limit of your flash... If some some reson your care speed limit decrease, but you still drive in a road that is in the range of this limitation, that's ok !
But if you use, say, 1 stop of ND, you are also cutting the light brightness by half, so.... Also vari-NDs are based on polarizers which can have odd side-effects on makeup and other issues
Thanks mate! I've been on the fence for a while now with getting the stc Nd. Just put an order in now because I have been switching between 4-5 different variable Nd filters on a shoot. Can't wait until I can try it
Definatly have to try this and filter with my ad200pro .. looks amazing your results.. is it how it looks like to me that with the nd filter you get more danamic range??
I used the atomos Ninja V to record the screen throughout the shoot. Wasn't a fan of the quality of the screen recording so maybe I did something wrong but in 6 hours when I make a post on Instagram I'm gonna share the screen recording of a photo I took in that post.
Hi, I am from Hong Kong and thank you for your videos. I have a question. Can I use Sony camera through a trigger to control a Godox Fuji speedlite TTL function? Thanks
Thankyou for sharing this... It was really informative.. Love from Nepal 🇳🇵 ❤ Can u recommend some good variable ND filters as sensor ND filter is not available here...
Yes it's true the AD200 in non-HSS will output more power than the AD400 in HSS but it's not really a "fair" comparison as it's like comparing apples to oranges. If we're talking about HSS on both, then the AD400 likely puts out another stop of light or at the very least, a bit more (maybe not quite a stop, but this depends). But at the same time, this is one reason people do buy more powerful lights, so they can shoot them in HSS and still have enough power.
Yeah, I tried my best to say this in the video. Just that HSS is going to work against you if you need every ounce of light in bright conditions or if you want to work lighter. I now use my 300 Pro primarily because it can handle bright conditions with a ND filter.
Here is the lil confusion...when we increase shutter speed...we also decrease aperture..thats also effects exposure... exposure should be balanced there...does that even a thing...?? And so we still loose the Power output.??
The issue is with exactly how much shutter is increased. Each camera has a limit which is around 1/250th. If you pass that limit then your flash HAS to enter HSS and all the power is lost right away. This is something the flash does because HSS is needed to show the flash in your photos at faster shutter speeds. If you were taking a photo without flash then the balance you described would be correct. It is just with flash where you have to be careful with how fast you use the shutter.
Thank you for the detailed video. However, sorry if I am missing the core point but, while skipping the HSS may avoid a loss of flash power by 1- 1.5 stops, wouldn't the ND filter also drive the same loss of light or more? So why would it work better ?
@@fjhphoto : Thank you Sir, makes a lot more sense now. I was however , also thinking in terms of darkening the background while keeping the subject properly lit for certain effects like you showed in other videos of yours
Please explain how using a ND filter helps? I get high speed sync reduces you flash power and the light reaching your censor but using a ND filter also reduces the light reaching your sensor. I don't get how the ND filter gives you an advantage. I would love you to do a video explaining the advantage in technical terms. Thank you for your good work.
What I wonder now is if I use a three-stop ND and still use HSS, does it at least drop a bit less? In other words, will it lose more trying to do full-power (1/1) than if you ask for less power. In other words, is the loss exactly proportional across power levels?
No. As soon as you enter HSS you lose all that power right away. The only way to avoid the loss is not using HSS at all. You lose all the power I mentioned with HSS right when you enter HSS and every time you increase the shutter it becomes even less power.
Polarizers help to minimize or completely elminate reflections in water or glass for example. ND filters cut all light, they are like sunglasses for your lenses.
I know you're right, but I'm trying to wrap my head around the way this works. It makes sense to me that engaging HSS causes the flash to operate with, let's say, half power - but if you put an ND filter on the front of the camera, wouldn't you need twice as much light for it to show? It seems like it would just be a wash.
This has to do with syncing your shutter speed with the light so you don't get the black band from the shutter closing before the exposure is complete. The ND filter just reduces the amount of light entering the lens, and as such you can slow down your shutter speed hopefully to a level where you can either avoid HSS or use a slower sync speed. If you're shooting wide open (say at f/2 or f/2.8) on a bright sunny day, the only way you can control the ambient light (background for example) is with shutter speed. Shutter speed does not impact your flash output but if the shutter speed is too fast, then the flash gets out of sync with the camera's shutter curtains, which is why we have HSS as a workaround for this. An ND filter just allows you to slow down your shutter speed to get the same overall background/ambient light exposure, and as a result, sometimes you can avoid HSS if you can keep your shutter speed low enough (like 1/200 or 1/250w which is what most cameras have for the fastest sync speed before HSS is needed).
I think you are kinda misleading here by claiming more power output while using NDs for portraits. Your flash still has to overcome the cut light from your Modifier & ND not to mention the colour shift an ND can introduce. I have used them in the past with SB-5000 speedlights & never got more power just less overheating due to the fact it wasn't pulsing (HSS) the lights... Am i missing something?
Not misleading at all. Yes, you have to cut through the ND filter but you now have use of the FULL range of power from your light. With HSS you don't. It's really that simple. And not all ND filters introduce color shifts. With your SB-5000 you certainly had more power at your dis[posal but it was still a typical speedlight at the end of the day so it won't do too well with HSS. So yeah, Francisco didn't mislead anyone, bud lol.
Something very annoying that I'm facing is not knowing the exact exposure when i pair the Trigger on the camera it stays as one constant exposure and i have to try many time to nail the strobe power perfectly Could you pls explain how to fix this in a video ?
Hi fjh can u make bts use old dslr 5d classic and 50mm 1.8 use budget flash and ACC with only budget 100$, I am still in middle school I ask my mom to buy that gear but she told me to prepare the list. Thx sincerely love from indonesia
It sounds like its just a trade off. I can lose the power with HSS or an ND filter. The only benefit is the strobe weight... the ND filter is much lighter than a bigger strobe. I can see the rationale but for me personally, I'd rather have the bigger strobe with me in case I need it. Beside, ND filters can get expensive when you buy a full set, again, I'd rather buy an extra light. Also, the less modifiers between the sensor and the model, the better. That said, there are times that an ND filter is just logistically better depending on what your shooting.
Ok can you talk more the difference of a Full Spectrum Neutral Density filter and that Kase Clip-in ND64 ? Sincerely? I believe you want to let us know, not just sell right? Appreciate.
Get the Kase filter. It works a bit better than the stc optics. There's a minor flare issue the stc optics has that the Kase doesn't. I only mainly use the stc optics filter because it's too easy to install and take off compared to the Kase which requires a bit more caution.
Totally understandable. I didn’t use a filter for years for the same reason. A variable ND filter ruined a whole shoot I did out of town in 2016. This sensor ND filter is amazing with quality though. I wouldn't use it if I felt it degraded image quality.
@@fjhphoto I have a Peter McKinnon VND that I only ever use for video and I may actually try it for stills, I use an AD1200 Pro, I'll give it a shot. :) Also that sucks about the shoot. :/
Use this link to get $25 off your PPA membership:
www.ppa.com/join/francisco-hernandez/sept2021
Francisco- Love your stuff, and ADMIRE your stance/position/LOGIC for ending SONY relationship. Other: The main reason I DIDN'T go to HSS was exactly that.....power loss. Once I knew about HOW it works, the plus/minus aspects, I decided years ago to not go that route. I'm (still) old school, and use (mainly) a Norman 400B for on-location work- because bare-bulbs/direct, I get 400 watt-seconds. With cable splitters, I can run 3-4 heads if need be. As w/ all lights, shooting thru an umbrella, bouncing, or direct via a softbox are ALL going to REDUCE light output. So I begin w/ more power than I need- on purpose. And I use variable ND filters to play w/ "the math"....balancing ambient/F-stop, and flash output. That 400 w/s can easily now be a 200 w/s source, (-1 stop) just via diffusion/method/modifier. I also use alot of speedlights- and most are typically about 60w/s equivalent/Full, without any mods.
That said: Here's what I love most about HSS and it's best practitioners: the ability to make most ANY background "work" by completely blowing out any distractions. In my own work it's the opposite: I'm trying to include a background/environmental element- to reinforce the portrait/subject. Example: I shot a project for a law office/attorneys...deliberately using bookcases/law books as the background element, slightly blurred out....but still connoting "law office", lawyers, etc.
Didn't know I was losing power with HSS until now. Thanks. Now I need to drag out those ND filters and start to use them again.
Nice that you show the orientation of the strobes, along with your settings. Awesome photos, thank you.
Thank you for answering the question with numbers. So many videos say “you just lose power” but I wanted to know exactly how much for each of my lights.
Amazing work and Learned so much on the power loss. NEVER thought it was that much
No one uses a 200 W/S strobe to overpower the sun. Even at full strength, it's not usually enough. Using a 600 W/S strobe, even with HSS is powerful enough to overpower the sun. Having said that, I did use a Godox AD200pro once to overpower the sun, but I also had a +3 ND filter on the lens so I could lower the shutter speed and use normal sync rather than HSS.
IMO this method works really well on mirrorless systems. Camera has a tough time focusing with ND's on Canon cameras, being that it still utilizes the mirror. For Canon users I will say plan your shoots, early morning shoots whenever possible or later in the evening around golden hour. This will yield better results for us Canon operators.
canon r, rp, r3,r5, r6, m50... lol
Took 2 days for my STC filters to leve Taiwan and arrive at my place in Australia. Will be using them soon with my AD300 and AD200 Pro,looking forward to the results...
I hope you can tell us how it works out for you. I would love to purchase one too! Thanks.
@@deenugent473 I bought the STC 6 stop (in Far North Queensland) when they first came out and found it was a little too much for my style of shooting, so bought a 3 stop which works perfectly.
Extremely happy with my purchase(s).
@@Miketz Thanks Mick for the reply. Looks like I'll be spending some money for my own Christmas gift this year 😁.
Great vid. And oooooooo, that feathering of the light at 9:15 is SWEET! :)
Your channel is so helpful. I love your style and try to use it for myself. Thank you for all you do.
awesome video! I am using the Godox Ad200 Pro in studio and out and am loving the light. Still trying to get the most out of it
Thanks for the numbers on my V1
if I used a main light in HSS, and have another flash firing in slave mode, would it need to have HSS capabilities as well?
beautiful work, new subscriber
I always use 70-200/2.8 for the portraits along with godox AD200pro and my usual camera setting would be at 200 mm, wide open, and at 1/400 shutter speed, so I am using HSS all the time. I use 1/400 shutter speed to compensate for camera shake while using telephoto lens because if I go anywhere below 250, I am taking a chance of not sharp pictures. I still using my D750 DSLR camera, not mirrorless ones which has inbody stabilization. What would you recommend for me? Highly appreciate your input and really an eye opener video. Thanks
Good question. I would say if you have enough power with the 200 Pro then you don't need to change a thing. But if you do need more power then I would suggest another 200 Pro or getting the 400 Pro. That will give you more power to work with so the loss in HSS won't be as bad as with the 200 Pro.
@@fjhphoto Thanks for your reply.
@@fjhphoto I am planning to get 300 pro for now.
Tripod and 3 sec delay)
Excellent explanation. Well done!
Very Informative!!
That's ok to lose some power as long as you are not reaching the limit of your flash...
If some some reson your care speed limit decrease, but you still drive in a road that is in the range of this limitation, that's ok !
Quality content! And very informative. Thank you very much! Compliments from Brazil!
I'll get those lights soon😁
8:27 godox softbox how many mm pleasee tell me.. and whats your reccomendation i will buy soon ad200
But if you use, say, 1 stop of ND, you are also cutting the light brightness by half, so.... Also vari-NDs are based on polarizers which can have odd side-effects on makeup and other issues
Great video thanks mate!
thank you for your video
Appreciate the visual info 👌🏾 as I'm about visuals as well. 😁
5:36 please tell me how many mm is that big softbox thankyou im buying soon
Great Video Francisco !
Thanks!😊
Thanks mate! I've been on the fence for a while now with getting the stc Nd. Just put an order in now because I have been switching between 4-5 different variable Nd filters on a shoot. Can't wait until I can try it
The sensor ND should work great! Wishing you the best with it.😊
why i cannot go further to 1/250 up to my shutter speed.. please help sir.. im only a beginner
Would you suggest using an nd-filter instead ?
Did you watch the video?😅
@@fjhphoto Yes, I did :-)
Definatly have to try this and filter with my ad200pro .. looks amazing your results.. is it how it looks like to me that with the nd filter you get more danamic range??
The ND filter would not affect dynamic range. Editing can help with that though.
Do you do video of using off camera flash indoors?
Unfortunately no, but I might change that soon. I'm wanting to make a few videos on topics about studio shoots.😊
I need a heavy duty stand like that for my softbox. Can u please recommend one?
Yeah, this is the 40" Avengers C stand:
amzn.to/2Z7KavT
excelente""
gracias!!!
Jst curious to know why do u choose AD300 over 200pro?
Francisco, thank you for another great and informative video. What monitor did you add to your camera?
I used the atomos Ninja V to record the screen throughout the shoot. Wasn't a fan of the quality of the screen recording so maybe I did something wrong but in 6 hours when I make a post on Instagram I'm gonna share the screen recording of a photo I took in that post.
@@fjhphoto love your work. im trying to figure out what the undermount for your atomos is.
@@JaeHawaii it wasn't anything I'd recommend. I just attached something like this to the bottom:
amzn.to/2Y7Aj8q
Hey Francisco, looking forward on the Kase vs STC filter you mentioned you are going to make a side by side comparison.
Yes, still working on it right now. Hopefully finishing within a week.
@@fjhphoto Yay, Thank you!
Hi, I am from Hong Kong and thank you for your videos. I have a question. Can I use Sony camera through a trigger to control a Godox Fuji speedlite TTL function? Thanks
I'm not sure. I believe so. I use a Godox Canon speedlite sometimes and I believe I can use TTL with it.😊
What about RotoLight NEO 3 ?..
Would any of these clip filters work for my SLR Sony A55? It has the same dimensions as the compatible cameras they list.. the APSC Sensor cameras..
Thanks
Thankyou for sharing this...
It was really informative..
Love from Nepal 🇳🇵 ❤
Can u recommend some good variable ND filters as sensor ND filter is not available here...
The Freewell 2-5 stop variable ND filter or Polar Pro 2-5 stop variable ND filter are both great options.😊
Yes it's true the AD200 in non-HSS will output more power than the AD400 in HSS but it's not really a "fair" comparison as it's like comparing apples to oranges. If we're talking about HSS on both, then the AD400 likely puts out another stop of light or at the very least, a bit more (maybe not quite a stop, but this depends). But at the same time, this is one reason people do buy more powerful lights, so they can shoot them in HSS and still have enough power.
Yeah, I tried my best to say this in the video. Just that HSS is going to work against you if you need every ounce of light in bright conditions or if you want to work lighter. I now use my 300 Pro primarily because it can handle bright conditions with a ND filter.
Here is the lil confusion...when we increase shutter speed...we also decrease aperture..thats also effects exposure... exposure should be balanced there...does that even a thing...?? And so we still loose the Power output.??
The issue is with exactly how much shutter is increased. Each camera has a limit which is around 1/250th. If you pass that limit then your flash HAS to enter HSS and all the power is lost right away. This is something the flash does because HSS is needed to show the flash in your photos at faster shutter speeds.
If you were taking a photo without flash then the balance you described would be correct. It is just with flash where you have to be careful with how fast you use the shutter.
Do you lose picture quality with the Freewell Threaded Hard Stop Variable ND Filter????
When I used the 6-9 stop I didn't notice any quality loss.
@@fjhphoto Is the quality the same with the 2-5 stop or would there be a difference?
Hola Amigo, desde que sigo tu canal siempre me pregunte cómo consigues tantas modelos ? Saludos campeon
me gustan esos modificadores Glow, quisiera comprarme aunque sea uno de ellos, me podrías decirme que serie son esos?
I have a suspicion that the power drops even more as you get into the higher shutterspeeds, but have been unable to work out a testing methodology.
And you would be correct. The further into HSS shutter speeds you go the more power you lose.
Thank you for the detailed video. However, sorry if I am missing the core point but, while skipping the HSS may avoid a loss of flash power by 1- 1.5 stops, wouldn't the ND filter also drive the same loss of light or more? So why would it work better ?
No, watch this video:
ua-cam.com/video/gl8VO6GrQHw/v-deo.html
@@fjhphoto : Thank you Sir, makes a lot more sense now. I was however , also thinking in terms of darkening the background while keeping the subject properly lit for certain effects like you showed in other videos of yours
@@cuteclicks1105 thank you for watching 😊
Please explain how using a ND filter helps? I get high speed sync reduces you flash power and the light reaching your censor but using a ND filter also reduces the light reaching your sensor. I don't get how the ND filter gives you an advantage.
I would love you to do a video explaining the advantage in technical terms.
Thank you for your good work.
It reduces your light while making your flash power; fire more efficiently.
@@emoboi311 Yes but how is it any different? HSS loses you light and ND filter loses you light!! how is it better?
Watch this - ua-cam.com/video/gl8VO6GrQHw/v-deo.html
What I wonder now is if I use a three-stop ND and still use HSS, does it at least drop a bit less? In other words, will it lose more trying to do full-power (1/1) than if you ask for less power. In other words, is the loss exactly proportional across power levels?
No. As soon as you enter HSS you lose all that power right away. The only way to avoid the loss is not using HSS at all.
You lose all the power I mentioned with HSS right when you enter HSS and every time you increase the shutter it becomes even less power.
First LIKE than let me watch it, This is what we are waiting for for 2-3weeks 😊😊
Bro, what is the difference b/w polarized filter and nd filters
Polarizers help to minimize or completely elminate reflections in water or glass for example. ND filters cut all light, they are like sunglasses for your lenses.
Tq so much bro ❤️❤️🙏
@@Alfredolunafoto1 appreciate you answering. You're absolutely right.😊
Good vid
I know you're right, but I'm trying to wrap my head around the way this works. It makes sense to me that engaging HSS causes the flash to operate with, let's say, half power - but if you put an ND filter on the front of the camera, wouldn't you need twice as much light for it to show? It seems like it would just be a wash.
Watch this:
ua-cam.com/video/gl8VO6GrQHw/v-deo.html
This has to do with syncing your shutter speed with the light so you don't get the black band from the shutter closing before the exposure is complete. The ND filter just reduces the amount of light entering the lens, and as such you can slow down your shutter speed hopefully to a level where you can either avoid HSS or use a slower sync speed. If you're shooting wide open (say at f/2 or f/2.8) on a bright sunny day, the only way you can control the ambient light (background for example) is with shutter speed. Shutter speed does not impact your flash output but if the shutter speed is too fast, then the flash gets out of sync with the camera's shutter curtains, which is why we have HSS as a workaround for this. An ND filter just allows you to slow down your shutter speed to get the same overall background/ambient light exposure, and as a result, sometimes you can avoid HSS if you can keep your shutter speed low enough (like 1/200 or 1/250w which is what most cameras have for the fastest sync speed before HSS is needed).
I think you are kinda misleading here by claiming more power output while using NDs for portraits. Your flash still has to overcome the cut light from your Modifier & ND not to mention the colour shift an ND can introduce. I have used them in the past with SB-5000 speedlights & never got more power just less overheating due to the fact it wasn't pulsing (HSS) the lights... Am i missing something?
For anyone needing more power than HSS/ND you need to get lights with a technology called High Sync!.
Not misleading at all. Yes, you have to cut through the ND filter but you now have use of the FULL range of power from your light. With HSS you don't. It's really that simple. And not all ND filters introduce color shifts. With your SB-5000 you certainly had more power at your dis[posal but it was still a typical speedlight at the end of the day so it won't do too well with HSS. So yeah, Francisco didn't mislead anyone, bud lol.
Something very annoying that I'm facing is not knowing the exact exposure when i pair the Trigger on the camera it stays as one constant exposure and i have to try many time to nail the strobe power perfectly
Could you pls explain how to fix this in a video ?
8:26❤️❤️
Hi fjh can u make bts use old dslr 5d classic and 50mm 1.8 use budget flash and ACC with only budget 100$, I am still in middle school I ask my mom to buy that gear but she told me to prepare the list. Thx sincerely love from indonesia
It sounds like its just a trade off. I can lose the power with HSS or an ND filter. The only benefit is the strobe weight... the ND filter is much lighter than a bigger strobe. I can see the rationale but for me personally, I'd rather have the bigger strobe with me in case I need it. Beside, ND filters can get expensive when you buy a full set, again, I'd rather buy an extra light. Also, the less modifiers between the sensor and the model, the better. That said, there are times that an ND filter is just logistically better depending on what your shooting.
棒棒的，高手
Ok can you talk more the difference of a Full Spectrum Neutral Density filter and that Kase Clip-in ND64 ? Sincerely?
I believe you want to let us know, not just sell right?
Appreciate.
Get the Kase filter. It works a bit better than the stc optics. There's a minor flare issue the stc optics has that the Kase doesn't. I only mainly use the stc optics filter because it's too easy to install and take off compared to the Kase which requires a bit more caution.
I'm kind of reluctant to put a filter on mine lens for pictures...
Totally understandable. I didn’t use a filter for years for the same reason. A variable ND filter ruined a whole shoot I did out of town in 2016. This sensor ND filter is amazing with quality though. I wouldn't use it if I felt it degraded image quality.
@@fjhphoto I have a Peter McKinnon VND that I only ever use for video and I may actually try it for stills, I use an AD1200 Pro, I'll give it a shot. :)
Also that sucks about the shoot. :/
can you put this to test? using a proper light meter and not just words
thanks for the video tho
I legit bought the Sekonic Light meter for Godox to make this specific video.😅
I guess I can make a follow up video with proof, lol.
@@fjhphoto Waiting for it