Remember folks. Underexposing is WAY better than overexposing. You loose a lot more information on an overexposed image, and it'll be hard or impossible to bring that information back in post.
i've been shooting for 10 years now professionally and I love the way you humbly explained your trials and tribulations. I went through the exact same thing and I TOO bring only one light source
What is the one light you bring. I’m just starting, ordered an 860ii and a ad200. For outdoor multi person portraits do I really need something bigger like the 600?
great tips! That last one: expensive lights in the hands of inexperienced and cheap lights in the hands of the experienced is a VERY VERY true statement and applies to all photography gear across the boards! I just started using an off-camera flash. Its amazing! I have very basic experience with it but just shot my own engagement shoot and it turned out amazing... I think! lol. Used a Godox Ad200 and a ton of timers haha! Did a video of it actually. Super pumped with results.
I can’t quote exactly what you said, but I 100% agree with this paraphrased statement - A cheap strobe used by an experienced photographer will always look great, an expensive strobe used by an inexperienced photographer will always look horrible. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I have had inexperienced photographers with expensive strobes snob me and my Godox strobes/speedlights.
@@fjhphoto well I mean maybe just try to focus on your style of light placement for example on most of your recent outdoor posts , usually someone’s holding it on a pole pretty close and with at least a 45 degree angle . But for example what if you didn’t have help and just a stand ? Where would your starting position be ? And then or would you feather or not feather the light for example . In studio it might be different and I’d probably feel a bit safer with 2 light setup just so it’s not as contrasty but I guess depends what your going for in the end . Also do you worry about presenting your white balance or just set it to flash lighting and balance in post . I find using a soft box with my nikon full frame the strobe lighting tends to be a bit on the warmer side of the spectrum so I’m often finding I have to pull the back to a cooler white balance . Sorry I guess there’s a lot in there for one video 😅
@@michaelmalodrums9674 haha suggestions are always welcome. I use auto white balance always as it does a good job most of the time. If I'm in an area where the light isn't changing like in the studio then I'll use a custom white balance.
@@fjhphoto true makes sense outdoors it’s always changing unless your in Vegas and the cloud doesn’t move for like 3 hours haha been there that was odd , not much breeze ;-)
Great content once again! I think one of the trickiest parts for some people that are learning OCF is figuring out the settings on the trigger and the lights to make them communicate with one another. Plus practicing a lot before trying it with paying clients is definitely key, too!
I just borrowed my first flash and had no idea what to do with it, this video made it was less intimidating, thank you for making this, definitely subscribing.
For a quick revision. Mistakes: 1. Confusing overexposure with harsh light. 2. Thinking many lights = better photos 3. Thinking you need expensive lights for great results 4. Thinking that the lights need to be on full power.
I have a paid shoot next week and today finally bit the bullet on a Godox AD200Pro and soft box with a wireless trigger. Definitely going to set it up and test it before the day of, but these tips definitely made me feel more confident in reducing my chance of messing up. Thanks!
My Godox AD600 has served me well, but looking back, I could have gone with a 400 or maybe even a 200. I never use full power, but it was neat in the beginning when I would try to compete with the sun
The reason flash is needed outdoors is that digital sensors can’t handle the contrast of direct sunlight. Exposing for highlight detail - separation between clipping ‘Zone 10 / 255’ specular reflections on ‘Zone 9 / 245-254 smooth whites - results in underexposed mid-tones and shadows. I learned flash photography back in the early 1970s from Monte Zucker who introduced and popularized the used of off camera flash for weddings, but he always used two flashes not one: Fill on a bracket over the lens to lift the shadows to the point were shadow detail was recorded, overlapped with the second Key flash. Most photographers add fill as the last step in creating the lighting pattern and usually put it on the side opposite the key light which seems logical but will result in unfilled areas devoid of detail. Centered fill on a bracket over the camera when shooting events mimics the look of skylight, lifting everything the camera sees equally. You don’t try to correctly expose the highlights with that flash, just life ALL the content of the scene to the point were dark clothing can be recorded with detail and minimal noise. The second off camera Key light is added over the fill to create the highlight pattern. Since getting my first digital camera with playback and histogram I’ve set lights using a 3D target consisting of a gray card with white and black hand towels draped over it to represent the extremes of the tonal range on any subject. Indoors using two flashes the workflow is: 1) set aperture for desired DOF; 2) Turn on centered fill and raise until there is detail in the shadows in the black towel in the playback and the spike it creates on the histogram kisses the left side; 3) Turn on the off-axis Key light and raise it until the highlights it creates on the white towel - over the top of the centered Fill - are 1/3 stop below triggering the clipping warning. When lights are set that way ANYTHING you put at the same distance will be rendered with a full range of detail. If the Key light is place at 45° to the nose of a subject and overhead - but not so high the brow shades the eyes - there will be flattering 3D modeling and a ‘mask’ of highlights on forehead, eyes, cheeks, mouth and chin - which will pull the eyes of the viewer to the front of the face and hold them there. Once the lights are set using the black and white towels any skin tone and clothing will be reproduced ‘as seen by eye’. The lighting will not look remarkable or trendy, just normal. Not how you want to capture every photo, but a good starting baseline for learning how light works. Outdoors the same dual flash approach works. The difference is dealing with the contrast of the direct sun and posing the face of the subject into the skylight opposite the sun before adding the Key light. 1) Put subject’s back to sun, exposing so where sun hits white towel exposure is 1/3 stop below clipping. 2) Pose the subjects face to the skylight so it creates the ‘mask’ highlight pattern on the front of the face. You will usually need to have the subject look upwards to get the skylight past the brow. 3) Turn on Centered Fill and raise power until detail is seen in black towel target. 4) Position the Key light so it matches the angle of the skylight creating the highlight mask on the front of the face - so the patterns match, not cancel each other out - then raise power until the front of the white towel exposure target which is now illuminated by skylight + fill flash + key flash is 1/3 stop below the sunlit whites, or about 2/3 under clipping. You don’t want the Key flash highlights on the white towel to exactly match the sunlit whites or you will lose the ambience of the rim lighting the sun is creating. The goal in that strategy is simply to augment the natural modeling of the skylight in a way that overcomes the technical limitations of the sensor’s too short dynamic range. The critical step to overcoming the limitations of sensor range is the centered Fill flash. The axiom for exposure with digital can be thought of as “Expose for the Shadows (with Fill Flash) and Expose for the Highlights (with Key Flash). “
I love how you stay humble even at your level of photography. Some photographers seem to forget that they once didn't know alot about off camera flash and have an arrogant way about them. Sometimes confidence can turn into arrogance. But not with you I enjoy and have learned alot from your videos. Stay true and keep sharing you videos you have a lot to offer to us that want to learn. I know your friends with Manny and I mean no offense but I had to stop watching his videos.
Рік тому+1
I make every mistake you mention and agree, if you are a begginer and pay attention to this video... you are gonna be a better photographer in short time.
Many thanks FJH. I'm very happy to see and hear that you are staying true to your heart and what resonate with you, even if it goes against the grain. GOD bless you and thank you again.
Thank you. I learned years ago from Manny Ortiz to set the camera to be underexposed by 1, and then adjust the flash. This ensures you don't darken too much the ambient.
@@noelhaye turn off the flash, expose your camera for ambient with your manual settings, obviously keeping the iso as low as possible, your subject should be under exposed by -1, then turn on flash and play with the power. You want enough flash to brighten up your subject but not over expose them.
That doesn't really apply to every photo which is why I wouldn't suggest doing that. You expose the ambient however you want it to be. Not exact measurements.
Hi Francisco. I have no ideal why you video weren't notifications, but I have it fixed. I just reccomended a new OCF Photographer to watch you. She gets her first flash kit today!
I've been doing photography for over 12 years I change my set up a couple of times. Now I have a strobe for outdoor shoots and I use the sun as a secondary light source. For indoors you can get away with two speedlights. A second speedlight can be used to light up the background or separate the subject. That's it that's the way it's set up now and I'm pretty happy with it.
I ended up getting a Flashpoint streak light 360 and using a Godox S2 mount with a Glow 40" collapsible beauty dish for my key light at 45/45 and on about 1/32 to start, and using my FP evolv 200 opposite the key light as a hair or kicker light for corporate type head shots. I think 1 thing newbies forget to do when using OCF is to adjust settings for ambient light before ever getting started making changes on the flash.
I always get freaked out when I am taking an OCF image and the background is dark even though I used a light meter for exposure. Like what am I doing wrong?
I've always shot with natural light, just now learning about Flash . Do you have any tutorials for on Camera Flash? Many areas I shoot in do not allow off camera, softboxes, strobes, etc. I want to achieve a similar look. Can I use...for example Godox V1C with diffuser on my R6 85mm 1.4 to achieve that much wanted moody background, and still provide that flattering light on my subject? I understand it won't be the same. Any suggestions or tutorials will be appreciated. Thank you.
You have some really nice images mate!!!........Years ago I also started out using more strobes than I needed - I too prefer to use one light for most portrait photography especially outdoors - inside the studio I will use two - one as a key and the other as a hair or fill light. Great job man!
Bro i look upto you....im still doing budget I'm using the 2000D i realise that u can get good pictures with the right equipment....for me i can say i havent reached your level bro but I'm working on having the right equipments....and im trying to improve my work everyday...In Kenya photography has rocketed everyone wants to be a photographer literally and photography equipments have become so expensive 🤣🤣💯 and the only way to stand out is by selling good images
Full power once I bought some real studio lights (400w jawns from Calumet) I almost NEVER shot at full power. Even now I damn near always have lights at 1/2 or 1/4 power, which is funny because I spent so much time agonizing over whether to buy 300 or 600w lights etc only to never use them at full power. It shows how we can get lost in things that don't even matter
Kinda late to the game, but I just started with flash photography (done a couple of shots), and still learning. Last time I was using manual mode for flash, but cranked my ISO way up high, so some images were reaaaally overexposed. Anyways, I wanted to know if pictures 1 and 2 can be achieved with a simple flash on/off camera? I have Godox 685II and would love to achieve something like this..
Nice video, but it was missing the explanation. Yes 3 mistakes, but what do you do to correct it. Not sure i agree with the one light theory. I bought one light and the background was black in certain circumstances of low light, night time. (I do mostly video) so second third lights can light the background or be a hair rim light. Of course you adjust the light to your setting and ambient lighting.
Hello, thanks for the video. I watched till the end. I currently have a Godox SK300II but when i synchronize it with my camera, I'm no longer able to change the shutter speed over 1/200. Do you know why and do you have tips for me please ?
good bit of information. Can you do one on lighting a full length portrait with one light to achieve a nicely lit lower body where the legs are not under exposed as opposed to the upper body resulting in them looking darker. Thanks in advance
I tend to agree with one light, BUT, is it possible to discuss in an upcoming video the different modifiers you use i.e. size, shape, diffusers, umbrellas, etc. Thanks.
With a speedlight in a softbox, do you find a zoom setting that works best, as far as efficiency and light spread is concerned? I'm usually at 35mm setting, thinking it's wide enough to cover the softbox and not too wide that I lose light output. I'm open to ideas/suggestions.
I think you chose a great zoom. I usually go with the widest available but if you aren't seeing any signs of hotspots on the subject then using a more narrow zoom could help with efficiency.
HAHA! i'm a victim of buying too many strobes. i didn't get studio strobes but i did get 2 speed lights and 2 ad200's thinking i was going to use them ever single shoot. Since I don't have a studio i really only use one ad200 like 90% of the time. Ill ad in a speed light with maybe some gels to ad some hair/rim light. The only time i ever use all four is if i'm shooting something very specific in a studio setting. I learned real quick that carrying all that gear around was a massive PITA and it took my attention away from making the actual images. I've also wasted so much money on modifiers. i have three i never use lol.
Yo get neewer lights for 200 ish bucks some even ttl and hss 😊 cause godox is expensive😢 well more lol so get 1 or 2 newer strobes 😊 theyre very good. ❤
Remember folks. Underexposing is WAY better than overexposing. You loose a lot more information on an overexposed image, and it'll be hard or impossible to bring that information back in post.
Yeap 😅😅 cause them burn pics sometimes not even B&W saves the day 😂😂😂
Agreed. I always compare that to cooking a piece of food. If needed, you can always cook it more, but you can't uncook it if you burn it.
@@brandikins11 Know how to nail your diffused value. know light.
i've been shooting for 10 years now professionally and I love the way you humbly explained your trials and tribulations. I went through the exact same thing and I TOO bring only one light source
What is the one light you bring. I’m just starting, ordered an 860ii and a ad200. For outdoor multi person portraits do I really need something bigger like the 600?
Now that you master lighting, time for you to apply the rule of the thirds to your videos :-)
I was guilty of needing many light setups till I found your videos.... thanks for sharing.....mentor!!!!
Oga Doro, you sef reach here 🌚
@@mazichriskc lol.... we die here
great tips! That last one: expensive lights in the hands of inexperienced and cheap lights in the hands of the experienced is a VERY VERY true statement and applies to all photography gear across the boards! I just started using an off-camera flash. Its amazing! I have very basic experience with it but just shot my own engagement shoot and it turned out amazing... I think! lol. Used a Godox Ad200 and a ton of timers haha! Did a video of it actually. Super pumped with results.
That's awesome, man! I'm about to go watch the video.😊
I can’t quote exactly what you said, but I 100% agree with this paraphrased statement - A cheap strobe used by an experienced photographer will always look great, an expensive strobe used by an inexperienced photographer will always look horrible. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I have had inexperienced photographers with expensive strobes snob me and my Godox strobes/speedlights.
I've seen so many bad photos with expensive gear. I wish I could have shown the examples of that I've seen others post that I saved over the years.
Would be cool if you follow up this video with that one light Placement for different situations ✌🏻
I'm working on several videos right now, but that's up on my list for sure! Any ideas on what different scenarios to show in that video?
@@fjhphoto strobe light placement during a sunset photo shoot
@@fjhphoto well I mean maybe just try to focus on your style of light placement for example on most of your recent outdoor posts , usually someone’s holding it on a pole pretty close and with at least a 45 degree angle . But for example what if you didn’t have help and just a stand ? Where would your starting position be ? And then or would you feather or not feather the light for example . In studio it might be different and I’d probably feel a bit safer with 2 light setup just so it’s not as contrasty but I guess depends what your going for in the end . Also do you worry about presenting your white balance or just set it to flash lighting and balance in post . I find using a soft box with my nikon full frame the strobe lighting tends to be a bit on the warmer side of the spectrum so I’m often finding I have to pull the back to a cooler white balance . Sorry I guess there’s a lot in there for one video 😅
@@michaelmalodrums9674 haha suggestions are always welcome. I use auto white balance always as it does a good job most of the time. If I'm in an area where the light isn't changing like in the studio then I'll use a custom white balance.
@@fjhphoto true makes sense outdoors it’s always changing unless your in Vegas and the cloud doesn’t move for like 3 hours haha been there that was odd , not much breeze ;-)
Great tips! I know a few photogs who for some reason shoot with strobes at full power no matter how much natural light is already available.
Yeah, it's a weird assumption. I still can't remember why I thought this when I started using flash.😅
Man I need to learn how to use flashes. Natural light photography is dope but as a pro imo you have to offer more. Great video
Great content once again! I think one of the trickiest parts for some people that are learning OCF is figuring out the settings on the trigger and the lights to make them communicate with one another. Plus practicing a lot before trying it with paying clients is definitely key, too!
Who the hell is downvoting this video? Great vid, Francisco.
I definitely was a victim of number 1. I would get so frustrated with the harsh light thinking how does a softbox break 🤣
Amazing content. I agreee. My TT600s with my Evolv 200x2 works fine for me. Same for expensive cameras.
I just borrowed my first flash and had no idea what to do with it, this video made it was less intimidating, thank you for making this, definitely subscribing.
No problem and thanks!😊
For a quick revision.
Mistakes:
1. Confusing overexposure with harsh light.
2. Thinking many lights = better photos
3. Thinking you need expensive lights for great results
4. Thinking that the lights need to be on full power.
I have a paid shoot next week and today finally bit the bullet on a Godox AD200Pro and soft box with a wireless trigger. Definitely going to set it up and test it before the day of, but these tips definitely made me feel more confident in reducing my chance of messing up. Thanks!
Helpful pointers for beginners planning to buy lights! Thank you! 😊
Your editing ability makes your photos look great bro.
My Godox AD600 has served me well, but looking back, I could have gone with a 400 or maybe even a 200. I never use full power, but it was neat in the beginning when I would try to compete with the sun
I use a YN200 cost 180 $, very good light
@@MegaJURISTE Nice! Plus it’s so much portable than my giant 600. A 200 would be so much more convenient
Well, the idea is to never use full power - recycle times and flash duration.
@@marcinmrzyglocki good point. Since I mainly use it at 1/32, I don’t notice recycle issues
So if you could only have one light - would you take a 400 over the 600?
The reason flash is needed outdoors is that digital sensors can’t handle the contrast of direct sunlight. Exposing for highlight detail - separation between clipping ‘Zone 10 / 255’ specular reflections on ‘Zone 9 / 245-254 smooth whites - results in underexposed mid-tones and shadows.
I learned flash photography back in the early 1970s from Monte Zucker who introduced and popularized the used of off camera flash for weddings, but he always used two flashes not one: Fill on a bracket over the lens to lift the shadows to the point were shadow detail was recorded, overlapped with the second Key flash.
Most photographers add fill as the last step in creating the lighting pattern and usually put it on the side opposite the key light which seems logical but will result in unfilled areas devoid of detail. Centered fill on a bracket over the camera when shooting events mimics the look of skylight, lifting everything the camera sees equally. You don’t try to correctly expose the highlights with that flash, just life ALL the content of the scene to the point were dark clothing can be recorded with detail and minimal noise. The second off camera Key light is added over the fill to create the highlight pattern.
Since getting my first digital camera with playback and histogram I’ve set lights using a 3D target consisting of a gray card with white and black hand towels draped over it to represent the extremes of the tonal range on any subject.
Indoors using two flashes the workflow is: 1) set aperture for desired DOF; 2) Turn on centered fill and raise until there is detail in the shadows in the black towel in the playback and the spike it creates on the histogram kisses the left side; 3) Turn on the off-axis Key light and raise it until the highlights it creates on the white towel - over the top of the centered Fill - are 1/3 stop below triggering the clipping warning.
When lights are set that way ANYTHING you put at the same distance will be rendered with a full range of detail. If the Key light is place at 45° to the nose of a subject and overhead - but not so high the brow shades the eyes - there will be flattering 3D modeling and a ‘mask’ of highlights on forehead, eyes, cheeks, mouth and chin - which will pull the eyes of the viewer to the front of the face and hold them there. Once the lights are set using the black and white towels any skin tone and clothing will be reproduced ‘as seen by eye’. The lighting will not look remarkable or trendy, just normal. Not how you want to capture every photo, but a good starting baseline for learning how light works.
Outdoors the same dual flash approach works. The difference is dealing with the contrast of the direct sun and posing the face of the subject into the skylight opposite the sun before adding the Key light.
1) Put subject’s back to sun, exposing so where sun hits white towel exposure is 1/3 stop below clipping.
2) Pose the subjects face to the skylight so it creates the ‘mask’ highlight pattern on the front of the face. You will usually need to have the subject look upwards to get the skylight past the brow.
3) Turn on Centered Fill and raise power until detail is seen in black towel target.
4) Position the Key light so it matches the angle of the skylight creating the highlight mask on the front of the face - so the patterns match, not cancel each other out - then raise power until the front of the white towel exposure target which is now illuminated by skylight + fill flash + key flash is 1/3 stop below the sunlit whites, or about 2/3 under clipping. You don’t want the Key flash highlights on the white towel to exactly match the sunlit whites or you will lose the ambience of the rim lighting the sun is creating.
The goal in that strategy is simply to augment the natural modeling of the skylight in a way that overcomes the technical limitations of the sensor’s too short dynamic range.
The critical step to overcoming the limitations of sensor range is the centered Fill flash. The axiom for exposure with digital can be thought of as “Expose for the Shadows (with Fill Flash) and Expose for the Highlights (with Key Flash). “
Great video and points. I also just love to shoot with one light or 2 most of the time
Bro. Following up your points with example photos. Thank you.
Had to!😊
I love how you stay humble even at your level of photography. Some photographers seem to forget that they once didn't know alot about off camera flash and have an arrogant way about them. Sometimes confidence can turn into arrogance. But not with you I enjoy and have learned alot from your videos. Stay true and keep sharing you videos you have a lot to offer to us that want to learn. I know your friends with Manny and I mean no offense but I had to stop watching his videos.
I make every mistake you mention and agree, if you are a begginer and pay attention to this video... you are gonna be a better photographer in short time.
Many thanks FJH.
I'm very happy to see and hear that you are staying true to your heart and what resonate with you, even if it goes against the grain.
GOD bless you and thank you again.
LOLed at the #3. I like where you went there! :D
If you know, you know, haha.
Your work has been an inspiration. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us.
Thank you for making these videos. I’m a beginner and trying to hopefully start a business. I can’t tell you how much this helps. Gracias🙏🏼
Great video. In my opinion, one of your greatest assets is your honesty. Seldom do you see pros opening up like this. Good job mate!
thank you sir...
Thank you for sharing this.
still one of my favorite photographers out there when it comes to creativity and quality of light. keep bringing that 🔥man!
Awesome
I want to do it on my channel.🔥🔥🔥
Thank you. I learned years ago from Manny Ortiz to set the camera to be underexposed by 1, and then adjust the flash. This ensures you don't darken too much the ambient.
How do u set the camera to be under exposed?
@@noelhaye turn off the flash, expose your camera for ambient with your manual settings, obviously keeping the iso as low as possible, your subject should be under exposed by -1, then turn on flash and play with the power. You want enough flash to brighten up your subject but not over expose them.
That doesn't really apply to every photo which is why I wouldn't suggest doing that. You expose the ambient however you want it to be. Not exact measurements.
Very good points
Nice thanks
great video & this will be a great help for those who struggle with OCF
👏👏👏Que bom ouvi isso de você... sempre achei que suas fotos estavam com o ambiente subexposto!
Vcs São Incriveis Fazem um Trabalho excelente
love the image of the old man... very nice sunset image
Great video. If you were going to choose one light today to use - which one would you get?
Hi Francisco. I have no ideal why you video weren't notifications, but I have it fixed. I just reccomended a new OCF Photographer to watch you. She gets her first flash kit today!
I've been doing photography for over 12 years I change my set up a couple of times. Now I have a strobe for outdoor shoots and I use the sun as a secondary light source. For indoors you can get away with two speedlights. A second speedlight can be used to light up the background or separate the subject. That's it that's the way it's set up now and I'm pretty happy with it.
I ended up getting a Flashpoint streak light 360 and using a Godox S2 mount with a Glow 40" collapsible beauty dish for my key light at 45/45 and on about 1/32 to start, and using my FP evolv 200 opposite the key light as a hair or kicker light for corporate type head shots.
I think 1 thing newbies forget to do when using OCF is to adjust settings for ambient light before ever getting started making changes on the flash.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s been so helpful and make one feel we can also get there!
I always get freaked out when I am taking an OCF image and the background is dark even though I used a light meter for exposure. Like what am I doing wrong?
Very nice ideas you have shared about the lighta
Great...Thanks so much
Great video! Thanks for posting!
I've been there, your content took me again to those days. Lol
Best wishes always
💥💥 3:42 ….. Jenny Bee..!! 🌟🏆💎 Let’s all get back to NYC for another fun shoot…
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Great video Joey!
Great advice !
Thank you for such great content 🙏🏽😊
Thanks for u video I am still learning
Nice tips and not many photographers would be brave enough to show their early learning work.
Thank you
Photos look amazing - what camera did you use for them?
I've always shot with natural light, just now learning about Flash . Do you have any tutorials for on Camera Flash? Many areas I shoot in do not allow off camera, softboxes, strobes, etc. I want to achieve a similar look. Can I use...for example Godox V1C with diffuser on my R6 85mm 1.4 to achieve that much wanted moody background, and still provide that flattering light on my subject? I understand it won't be the same. Any suggestions or tutorials will be appreciated. Thank you.
Great video! Very helpful. Thank you so much!!
You have some really nice images mate!!!........Years ago I also started out using more strobes than I needed - I too prefer to use one light for most portrait photography especially outdoors - inside the studio I will use two - one as a key and the other as a hair or fill light. Great job man!
Nicely presented and useful information.
Good words of wisdom 👍
Bro i look upto you....im still doing budget I'm using the 2000D i realise that u can get good pictures with the right equipment....for me i can say i havent reached your level bro but I'm working on having the right equipments....and im trying to improve my work everyday...In Kenya photography has rocketed everyone wants to be a photographer literally and photography equipments have become so expensive 🤣🤣💯 and the only way to stand out is by selling good images
Hey! Thank you so much for your tips, so helpful. Like your style of teaching. Greetings from Czech
You can do a lot with just one light. One sujestion to all beginers maybe even some pros get the book Light Sceince and Magic.
like always your video is really nice, there is always something to learn :)
Great video!
Nice video! I'm trusting in you because you're telling same things about lightnings what my photography prof told me just several months ago. :)
Great stuff, amigo!
Thanks, man!😊
Fantastic tips! Thank you!
Wow love your pictures and the locations ❤
Good video 👍
Linkin Park: One more light. lol
Full power
once I bought some real studio lights (400w jawns from Calumet) I almost NEVER shot at full power. Even now I damn near always have lights at 1/2 or 1/4 power, which is funny because I spent so much time agonizing over whether to buy 300 or 600w lights etc only to never use them at full power. It shows how we can get lost in things that don't even matter
Really helpfull, thanks
Now, you’re talking my language 🤣
Kinda late to the game, but I just started with flash photography (done a couple of shots), and still learning. Last time I was using manual mode for flash, but cranked my ISO way up high, so some images were reaaaally overexposed. Anyways, I wanted to know if pictures 1 and 2 can be achieved with a simple flash on/off camera? I have Godox 685II and would love to achieve something like this..
Thank you .Awesome video.
Nice video, but it was missing the explanation.
Yes 3 mistakes, but what do you do to correct it.
Not sure i agree with the one light theory. I bought one light and the background was black in certain circumstances of low light, night time. (I do mostly video) so second third lights can light the background or be a hair rim light.
Of course you adjust the light to your setting and ambient lighting.
You are great , thank you for your help
Video in summary: you don’t need to have expensive lights. Lol bro with issues right here
You just won a new subscriber. Gracias!
Ok but how is everybody getting these enchanted like photos. so clear so perfect no blemishes almost doll like photos
Has videos con subtítulos en español me gusta tus videos pero la gran Mayoría no le entiendo eres un crack y desea aprender de ti✨📸
Hello, thanks for the video. I watched till the end.
I currently have a Godox SK300II but when i synchronize it with my camera, I'm no longer able to change the shutter speed over 1/200. Do you know why and do you have tips for me please ?
Can someone explain the terminology for why the picture looks so smooth
Great video !!! What size diffuser/ umbrella do you use for outdoor , full body photos?
Appreciate the 💎
good bit of information. Can you do one on lighting a full length portrait with one light to achieve a nicely lit lower body where the legs are not under exposed as opposed to the upper body resulting in them looking darker. Thanks in advance
So helpful
Sage-like advice!
Thank you what about small sensor cameras (sony hx50) can an external flash improve a photo
Great tips, thanks, was that model America Ferrara with glasses?! 🤔
Thanks for the useful video.
I tend to agree with one light, BUT, is it possible to discuss in an upcoming video the different modifiers you use i.e. size, shape, diffusers, umbrellas, etc. Thanks.
Yeah, sure.😊
With a speedlight in a softbox, do you find a zoom setting that works best, as far as efficiency and light spread is concerned?
I'm usually at 35mm setting, thinking it's wide enough to cover the softbox and not too wide that I lose light output.
I'm open to ideas/suggestions.
I think you chose a great zoom. I usually go with the widest available but if you aren't seeing any signs of hotspots on the subject then using a more narrow zoom could help with efficiency.
HAHA! i'm a victim of buying too many strobes. i didn't get studio strobes but i did get 2 speed lights and 2 ad200's thinking i was going to use them ever single shoot. Since I don't have a studio i really only use one ad200 like 90% of the time. Ill ad in a speed light with maybe some gels to ad some hair/rim light. The only time i ever use all four is if i'm shooting something very specific in a studio setting. I learned real quick that carrying all that gear around was a massive PITA and it took my attention away from making the actual images. I've also wasted so much money on modifiers. i have three i never use lol.
Yo get neewer lights for 200 ish bucks some even ttl and hss 😊 cause godox is expensive😢 well more lol so get 1 or 2 newer strobes 😊 theyre very good. ❤