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How To Set Up A Top Rope Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1761
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- Опубліковано 7 гру 2020
- Setting up a top rope anchor is an essential climbing skill to learn. Often climbers use in situ gear, but that can be dangerous as the equipment can wear with heavy use. Today Trevor Massiah shows us how to safely set up a top rope anchor using your own gear...
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How To Set Up A Top Rope Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1761
Could you guys possibly do a video on cleaning an anchor and repelling back down?
Rapelling
You couldn't find anyone better to walk folks through these important basic concepts with clarity. Trevor and Des rock like Led Zeppelin and have built an amazing guide service. Trevor has left a loooong and amazing list of brilliant must do climbs in his wake, around the world. Treat yourself to some.
Amazing teacher. Wanna see more videos with him. Thanks
Wished you showed other types of anchors like chains, cold shuts...etc for TR.
I second this
Great tips, would love more info videos from this guy
More coming soon!
book a course. If you life in that area - he seems to be a decent trainer and you should book with him :)
His name is Trevor Massiah
I’d love to see a video on how the last person transfers off the placed gear onto the in-situation gear. Thanks.
I would definetely NOT want to see a video on this, because people might think they can replicate what they saw in that video. I highly recommend to take a trainer or book a climbing course to learn that.
@@chaosengine4597 while thats true, if no professional is going to do such videos then someone might upload one where they show it even wrongly, so it would still be better if there was one done by a professional instructor like this guy.
I would love to see a proper in-depth video on this. Showing different types of anchors, and how to correctly set up, clean and lower off a route. There’s already loads of sub par confusing videos and I believe Climbing Daily has the skills to put together a really comprehensive version!
@@chaosengine4597 I learnt how to clean a route from UA-cam, and after many many times doing so I'm still alive and not had any close calls, just double check as I go.
@@damiensmith8351 probably you are smart. Not all people are smart though. But overall I think you cannot avoid those videos. So maybe EpicTV is a good option then to have the good ones.
Isn't there an issue with the equalized load? The right bolt seems to be weighted more, doesn't it?
Right I wouldn't feel safe doing this way but isn't there many ways of setting up a bolted TR anchor? Like 2 quickdraws, building a quad or other rope/sling anchor that would be safer.
Not *more*. The anchor hanger using the carabiner is the ***ONLY*** piece of hardware that is loaded. The quickdraw is taking 0 load. This...is not a "textbook" video.
If you're going to go simple - a long (17cm) quickdraw and a short (12cm) quickdraw with some lockers on the rope ends wouldve likely done a more balanced job. but do to the anchor placement, if you want eqaulized, youre going to need to create an anchor: ua-cam.com/video/Xzw9ZT-J71E/v-deo.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2
There is enough redundancy that its ok
@@ccolagio_ That makes sense. I was thinking it was the positioning of the bolts, they looked a little off.
Please show more anchors and also how to clean them in the end.
I've seen many many many video about this topic. This one is the clearest of all. good job!
You're a really great teacher!
Excellent guy excellent explanations!!!!!!
excellent explanation
The question is...who puts those anchor bolt things in the first place
guys, a quick question from a beginner climber. Aren't you supposed to clip yourself closer to the rock (opposite of when you lead), when building top rope anchor, assuming you built it for someone else to toprope after you lower?
Trevor is cool, more Trevor videos.
Just out of curiosity here, shouldn't the force be equalized on both, it kind of looks like there is only force being used on the screw-lock, or did you use this set up because the bolts are off?
I were so impressed with not only your skill but also your style.
Now looking for just the same like VAN pr Camping Car exactly.
What is, "in situ gear"? Thank you!
Great video thanks. I assume with any anchor you always want at least two?
Really nice, very well explained
I'm not an expert, but so much of what he did feels wrong to me. I don't think it is necessairly unsafe, but definitely not best-practice, especially if you plan to top rope off of it. For one the anchor is not equalized so all of the weight is on one caribiner/bolt. two I was always taught to clip directly into the bolts not the chain simply to reduce the number of pieces that could fail. If I'm wrong please explain why.
You're better off using steel carabiners for top roping instead of aluminum. Steel will last longer and you won't have to spend extra money replacing carabiners.
Great video, thanks!
Great content, very useful!
Can we talk about bolts some time please? those petzl bolts seem to be everywhere in North Wales but really damage quickdraws!
There are much better bolt options out there, time to chop those MacPretzl time-bombs and replace with quality anchors. Ha ha.
Great video!
Is there a reason for using only two locking caribiners as opposed to four on the starting anchor?
That’s interesting, I’ve always learned to just thread it right away and the top rope off of it, but now I’m questionning this habit and might share this to some friends !
It really depends on the area and the local customs. I prefer to use my own gear and will always do do.
At 2:13 you can see several anchors going up the mt.
I was wondering, for safety reasons do you always attach to each anchor so if you fall, your not falling that far?
Yep that's the fundamental way sport climbing works. You clip your gear (called quickdraws) on one bolt (anchor is usually reserved for the top two installed points) at a time until you get to the top of the route where you anchor and lower or if possible walk off safely.
Hey brutha! Good stuff ✊🏾
Very helpfull! Thank you from germany.
What i want to know is if someone must use a pulley to prevent cord wear?!? Is it right?
Thank you
Anyone else notice he’s tied in with a double bowline? Snazzy :)
I love these types of videos...still waiting on the good rescue video though! From rescue the climber from below, and above
i was wondering which knot this is... is it considered as safe as the figure eight?
@@davidarbinger3543 It is an equaly safe knot, just not as easy to check. Very common here in Germany. The main benefit is that it is always easy to untie even after a big fall.
@@johannessporer so like the "doppelter bulin" (sorry dont know the english word)
@@davidarbinger3543 "Bulin" schreibt man Bowline und spricht bulin ;) das ist also der gleiche Knoten
@@johannessporer kk aber beim genaueren betrachten schaut der nicht wie ein doppelter bulin aus, sondern wie ein yosemite bulin
shouldn't the screwgate go through the bolt itself instead of the chain?
gracias por la explicación. me gusto el video
Could someone answer: is the 7mm cordalette quad anchor option “stronger / better” than both the sling and QuickDraw anchor method?
I am not an expert but I normally tends to use 7 mm cordelette and get a double seft-equalizing setup, this is very strong (clip only 3 of the 4 strands). Looks better for me to equalized forces on both anchor and also use locked carabiner (quickdraw is quick and easy to use but it is not locked).
Bit late with my reply. As long as the system is redundant and equalized the double draw method is fine. I personally have a pre-tied quad for setting tr anchors and live by it. It’s especially nice for anchor like the one in this video where one bolt is higher than the other because it has no problem equalizing if anchor is long enough
cool video!
Love this dude
Would like to have seen him clean and lower off of the anchor as well, otherwise great video
Great 👍
You have to equalize the anchor, in his set up there is no equalization. The entire load is only on 1 bolt, a big no no. This is a poor anchor. Anyone watching this should follow SRENE (solid, redundant, equalized, no extension) please don't make top rope anchors like this.
its not really an anchor though.. just like taking whipper on a quickdraw the bolt and carabiner will most likely be fine and then there's the redundancy of the other draw taking no load. also on top rope there will be almost no loading apart from the climbers bodyweight
I'm a bit jealous about the nice sport anchors elsewhere. In my area in southern Frankenjura you will only find single glue ins with maybe a maillon when you are lucky and that's it...
Take a drill and put a 2nd one next to it. :D
@@onzeit1822 not allowed due to the ethics...chains and multiple bolts have to much visual impact. Many crags are in nature reserves where you have to find a compromise between different interests. Leaving quickdraws for more than a session is also not allowed.
@@johannessporer Oh I didn't know. I was following parts of the Frankenjura bolt debate but wasn't aware that a 2nd bolt at the top would be considered a problem for those reasons. That argument is ridiculous considering some bolts recently failed.
@@onzeit1822 Yea it's always a bit scary. But most areas in the southern part of Frankenjura (f.e. Altmühltal were developed in the early 80s where safety was measured quite different to nowadays. It is also common that the first bolt is higher than 7m and bolt distances are over all very long and many routes are kind of mixed trad when you don't want to deck from 10m...
@@johannessporer Definitely keeps the crowds away...
What is the name of the belay device used in this video?
clickup
Do you ever see wear on the bolts?
Personally I wouldn’t be using a carabiner in anything that would be having a rope going through it like he does with the ring, I understand that an aluminium binner wouldn’t easily damage a steel ring but still why take the chance, at the end of the day it doesn’t take much to damage your rope with a sharp edge
good basic setup, although I would have done it in a different way, not using a ring to clip in my locking carabiner.
+1 for the helmet. Only people with brain need to protect it.
There isn't a good reason to not use the ring. Especially when the bolts aren't equalised it helps to use a combination like he did.
There are even places where the hanger isn't designed to be clipped and you should clip the ring.
Check out what certified guides are saying and not randoms on youtube comments.
www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-clip-a-ring-anchor?fbclid=IwAR1KIPm3NL_-o270oNBCogAmD9k1yFqUWIvbaSw0JZt4qgJ6lABXE7W5DYk
@@joffyjenkins9241 I am a certified trainer, trained in a certified university course by certified instructors here in Austria. And I wrote "I would have..." as there is no real standard on it. My reason is that the ring should be used for textile only _in my opinion_ (and as I was trained) because metal on metal could lead to micro cuts/edges, potentially damaging the mantle of ropes and therefore lowering their duration.
Yes, I am a "random guy on the internet". That's why I always recommend to go to a decent local climbing school / Alpine society or similar and get proper training. Cheers.
@@chaosengine4597 Ah great then you have an even bigger responsibility to stay up to date and not perpetuate myths.
www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/debunking-anchor/climbing-myths-part-1
I mean, using ally biners on a steel ring is not going to damage them, a bit of material science goes well in this case. And even if it did (it doesn't), have you seen the wear from rope friction detailed even in this video? Any "micro cut" is going to be long gone with even minimal use.
@@joffyjenkins9241 the article you sent is for multi-pitching, not for building top-rope stations for your friends or climbing trainees in sports climbing. Also, the site seems to be hosted by one US guy (I cannot judge his proficiency). Sorry, but I stay up to date through other sources like the excellent publications in "bergundsteigen" (only in German, but I know who is discussing topics and the arguments behind assumptions put there).
Yes, I try to stay up to date as much as possible (e.g. the discussion on tuber-style belay devices in the last years has been extremely interesting). But please take into account that "my way" on building a top-rope anchor is not wrong, just because it is different to how you do it. It is just how I do it and you don't need to change my mind on this for any reason.
@@chaosengine4597 It makes no difference, bolts are bolts and metal is metal. One US guy, who then goes on to quote, question or report on multiple world wide instructors with various worldwide certifications.
I am not saying what you are doing is wrong, in some circumstances it could even be the better thing to do. What I am saying is wrong is you perpetuating myths. The simple answer is that there is nothing wrong with clipping on rings, so why comment when someone does when there is no evidence for your claims?
What is he tied in with? Single bowline with a stopper knot?!
Equalisation of the anchor?
He talked about it. It is 99% equalized. 5:45
@@onzeit1822 That's redundancy, not equalization.
@@Johannes1321 Totally correct! Not equalized but redundant with very little added dynamic force in case of faliure of bolt no. 1. So, in this set-up, just as good as a belay with a chain I'd say.
This is a poor anchor setup.
1. He relies on the belayer to secure himself instead of securing himself to the anchor with a strap and taking the load off the belayer
2. He doesn't equalize the anchors. All load goes on a single anchor insteqd of being shared between 2.
Right, he putting all the weight in just one bolt. The weight should be distributed as equal as possible on both bolts. People has to remember to use a lifeline, all the time for any procedure.
How do you do to equalise the anchors then ?
His personal safety should be thru his hard points, not belay loop. Dont build a top rope anchor off of rings out of curiosity (ppl are trying to rapp). Build a quad on the hangers and everyone is happy
You can do PAS both ways. Oftentimes people will do belay loop for single pitch and hard points for multi.
There are mutliple pieces of misinformation in this video and im concerened for everyones safety. It is not normal to see wear on a rappel ring; it is ment to be used for a rappel, when the rope is stationary, not for a top rope with a sliding rope. One should not top rope on a piece of fixed gear. It presents risk of death for all climbers that come after. Bring your own slings, webbing andore cordilette and set up your anchor off of the bolts.The quick anchor made with the quick draw and locking caribeaner is not redundant. If the right anchor blows, the quick draw would be shock loaded presenting risk of catistrophic failure (permenant injury andor death). Please double check all information and remember to make anchors eqaulized and redundent.
I appreciate these climbers and theire commentary about climbing safety.
I was taught that, when it comes to cleaning the anchor and going down from it, always to opt for rappelling down rather than being lowered down on the in situ gear when possible.
while this would be the best option in terms of wear on the in situ gear, it's often unpracticle. If I need to clean 5-6 routes at the end of a course, there simply is not enough time. As often in climbing, it's about adapting to the given situation :)
If you talk to people who develop areas and are the ones bolting and maintaining the permanent gear, a lot of them will say that the slight decrease in wear and tear is not worth the greater risk of injury that comes with rappelling. If you're comfortable doing it, then by all means go for it, but they place rings and links and easy to replace gear with the intention that the last climber lower off. The vast majority I've talked to would rather swap out some grooved gear occasionally than have even one rappelling fatality.
@@slimpanther02 Fair point to you and @chaosengine ; it is true that under time constraints, rappelling is unpractical in the best of times. And it is quite true that if one does not have the proper skill set to rappel, getting lowered down is the best option.
@@slimpanther02 are you an enormocast listener?
@@rodrigotellez2962 In my opinion leave rappeling for the multipitch routes, use lowering for single pitch routes and downclimbing for free Solo ascents
Thumbnail clip is super sketch. Don't need to watch video to know this isn't a good source of information
Sorry, but this guy is using a dmm binner with a wheel in it which is EXPLICITLY NO RECOMENDED BY DMM to do top rope!!!
"It can decrease rope wear when used as an anchor point when top roping." DMM site about the Revolver biner.
The Revolver is NOT designed for use on zip wires, Tyrolean traverse, top roping or other situations where prolonged use could cause damaging build up of heat.
14.1 WARNING The Revolver is designed as the rope clipping carabiner in a quick draw set. The roller’s surface can be damaged if the Revolver is clipped to wires, bolts and pegs. This in turn could cause damage to a rope. Always ensure the Revolver is clipped in the correct orientation (refer to pictograms).
content.dmmwales.com/DMMWales/Media/ProductInstructions/LanguageGroupsCombined/INS-Revolver-G1G2.pdf
@@henriktengelin8875 I think you forgot to interpret what you cited. My interpretation is, that DMM will not take any responsibility. But the Revolver is perfectly safe to use as part of a redundant top-rope setup. It's funny that DMM contradicts themselves product-page vs. safety sheet.. bit yeah whatever. Armchair experts want to hear they're right, I guess.
What's your argument with "sorry, this guy..." anyway? You can't take him seriously? That's ridiculous. Also quite entertaining. I often wonder how so many youtube users think of themselves as knowledgeable enough to proove wrong professionals.
Trevor seems awesome. Look forward to seeing more from him.
10 min video for: use quickdraw and screwgate.
0:50 ew
First