Just moved back to the UK haven't worked on central heating boilers until a few months ago so these are really helpful thanks man! Keep up the great work
Great video mate only thing I noticed is that you never replaced the damaged plastic rear guard that would have been melted from the heat was only half of it left.As the seal was completely gone good vid tho mate.
Has there been a safety bulletin from Worcester about this as I’ve asked around 5 other gas engineers about this and no one has said they knew about it…it doesn’t appear to be common knowledge so I’m looking for more information on it now
Hello Luke, I'm really enjoying watching your channel. I can imagine most people who do watch are interested in plumbing/ gas / engineering. However, there may be those who may want to try and save a few quid and trying to fix their own... I'd respectfully recommend that you add a cover note in your introduction that the video is a guide to give an indication of how it is done, and you'll need to be gas safe to work on your own. I'm afraid this is the world we live in, and I wouldn't want some twonk to ruin it for you 😮 Keep up the good work and for keeping it real 😊
Yes mate it’s going to be included in the description as a disclaimer that the video is indented for information and not entertainment purposes only and only has safe registered engineers should attempt work on gas appliance 👍
Thanks again for another informative video m8y. I have made so many notes for my own personal learning log, hopefully they will help me to picture things in my head a bit better when I start my GAS. Great content as always much appreciated 👊.
I always put the nut back on m8, i find ot helps when ypu arw pulling the electrodes as the plate doeant rattle about. Great content again m8, loving the training thursday
Use a small 10mm open ended spanner rested on the HX top to prize off the electrode wires Boss, or angled hose grip Pliers. No damage to the shroud or electrodes, and no need to chissel the top of electrode off.👍
Where I put the plate back in on top of the burner you’ll see a white plastic strip, a small part on the right is missing by the looks of it. I’ve been asking around and asked around 5 other engineers about this and no one has said they knew about it. I can’t find a safety bulletin from Worcester about it. I am looking into it but I checked with my analyser at the end and the sweep test was fine, all safety checks on boiler were fine but if find any information on it Il post in another video, but it doesn’t seem common knowledge from asking around.
Yes, the main reason the gasket fails is the plastic clamp that holds the burner lid down, if it fails it doesn’t hold the lid down evenly and allows flue gases to escape therefore when you do your sweep test it detects co, a clear sign the clamp has failed is the rubber electrode connections turn white and brittle
The two screws holding the plastic part in place can be a complete arse to undo, you can lift the heat ex upwards and out of the boiler for better access if need be without undoing the the two screws
I would say the main reason them gaskets fail is lack of maintenance to be honest if they was replaced and them boilers stripped and cleaned when they are supposed to be the boilers would perform better, last longer and prevent breakdowns
@@bluebulldog_uk yes I agree, a quick negative fan pressure test and sweep test will prove if a strip down and clean service is required, certain companies out there prefer their engineers not to carry out strip and clean services which definitely doesn’t help, most of the gaskets that I have found to be compromised are due to the plastic clamp turning brittle and falling to pieces, but I absolutely agree poor workmanship is also to blame
Luke you need to go back to that job as that plastic strip at the back needs to be replaced other wise it won't seal on the red gasket it will be dangerous
Sweep test was fine I always make sure it’s sealed no readings on analyser so it’s not dangerous as I would of picked up readings if I hadn’t of sealed. Been asking about and checking up on the plastic strip, asked around 5/6 other engineers and none have come back to me to say they even knew or thought to check it but I’ve had few comments about it so I’m looking into it to get some more information if it’s a safety critical part of the boiler. Was there a Worcester bulletin about it or anything like that as it doesn’t appear to be common knowledge when I’m asking around? Appreciate you pointing it out as I will look into it to 👍
Just moved back to the UK haven't worked on central heating boilers until a few months ago so these are really helpful thanks man! Keep up the great work
Thanks mate 👍
Hope this video helps, any questions just drop them in the comments, thanks for all your support 🙌👍
That Karcher comes in so clutch 👍🏾
Been an amazing tool, wish I got it sooner 👍
Legend👊🏻
🙌👍
Great video mate only thing I noticed is that you never replaced the damaged plastic rear guard that would have been melted from the heat was only half of it left.As the seal was completely gone good vid tho mate.
Yes it won't seal Luke needs to go back to that job and sort that out
Need to change that white plastic retaining clip at back of heat ex when they are damaged now mate
Has there been a safety bulletin from Worcester about this as I’ve asked around 5 other gas engineers about this and no one has said they knew about it…it doesn’t appear to be common knowledge so I’m looking for more information on it now
Yeah there has been saying it needs replacing when its damaged as it helps make the seal
@@MrMarco3 ok il have a look on Worcester’s website to see if I can find it but doesn’t mention it in TB0138
I've typed a comment to this twice and it's disappeared 😂 I think the CIA are watching me 🫣👀🤣
Yep retainer if broken needs replacing pain to get too unless got small hands.
Excellent video buddy. Really excellent.
Love that you mention the newbies and how this is so helpful to them.
Very admirable attitude
Thanks mate 👍
Hello Luke, I'm really enjoying watching your channel.
I can imagine most people who do watch are interested in plumbing/ gas / engineering.
However, there may be those who may want to try and save a few quid and trying to fix their own... I'd respectfully recommend that you add a cover note in your introduction that the video is a guide to give an indication of how it is done, and you'll need to be gas safe to work on your own.
I'm afraid this is the world we live in, and I wouldn't want some twonk to ruin it for you 😮
Keep up the good work and for keeping it real 😊
Yes mate it’s going to be included in the description as a disclaimer that the video is indented for information and not entertainment purposes only and only has safe registered engineers should attempt work on gas appliance 👍
Could you use a drill.brush to clean the heater
Top work but give me a Vaillant over a worcester any day for the maintenance side of things.
Great content as always Luke you're smashing it 😎
Thanks mate appreciate the support 🙌👍
Thanks again for another informative video m8y. I have made so many notes for my own personal learning log, hopefully they will help me to picture things in my head a bit better when I start my GAS. Great content as always much appreciated 👊.
Thanks mate 👍
That was a wicked service Luke. ❤
Thanks mate 🙌👍
I am writing from Turkey, very informative, thank you. Where can I get the cleaning wires for the tools you use in the video? Thank you.🧿👍👏
Nice mate, i always date the red gasket for future reference, and proof you've changed it .
I like that idea 👍
I have had exactly same job today with the same boiler 👍
I do like doing a full strip and clean on these boilers 👍👍
I always put the nut back on m8, i find ot helps when ypu arw pulling the electrodes as the plate doeant rattle about. Great content again m8, loving the training thursday
Not a bad shout they do move around, someone has suggested hose grip pliers as well which looks like a decent tool to get for them
Love your videos and the accent.
I am Walsall.
Cheers mate 🙌👍👍
Use a small 10mm open ended spanner rested on the HX top to prize off the electrode wires Boss, or angled hose grip Pliers. No damage to the shroud or electrodes, and no need to chissel the top of electrode off.👍
Cheers mate Someone’s suggested hose grip pliers as well which is another great shout
If you put coke cola inside the heat exchanger and let it soak for good 15mins will make it easier to get the baffles out. But sometimes dosent work.
If that bottom baffle gets stuck in tip a can of coke in and leave it in for a few mins and it’ll come straight out.
I’ve heard about this trick but never tried it, will give it a try next time I get one stuck 👍
Luke can you work out what the guys above are on about, or can someone post a picture and circle the part they mean? Thanks for the advice everyone!
Where I put the plate back in on top of the burner you’ll see a white plastic strip, a small part on the right is missing by the looks of it. I’ve been asking around and asked around 5 other engineers about this and no one has said they knew about it. I can’t find a safety bulletin from Worcester about it. I am looking into it but I checked with my analyser at the end and the sweep test was fine, all safety checks on boiler were fine but if find any information on it Il post in another video, but it doesn’t seem common knowledge from asking around.
Very good video
Thanks mate 👍
Think I’ll invest in the pressure washer 👍
Great but if kit mate 👍
Top Man
Thanks mate 👍
Yes, the main reason the gasket fails is the plastic clamp that holds the burner lid down, if it fails it doesn’t hold the lid down evenly and allows flue gases to escape therefore when you do your sweep test it detects co, a clear sign the clamp has failed is the rubber electrode connections turn white and brittle
The two screws holding the plastic part in place can be a complete arse to undo, you can lift the heat ex upwards and out of the boiler for better access if need be without undoing the the two screws
I would say the main reason them gaskets fail is lack of maintenance to be honest if they was replaced and them boilers stripped and cleaned when they are supposed to be the boilers would perform better, last longer and prevent breakdowns
@@bluebulldog_uk yes I agree, a quick negative fan pressure test and sweep test will prove if a strip down and clean service is required, certain companies out there prefer their engineers not to carry out strip and clean services which definitely doesn’t help, most of the gaskets that I have found to be compromised are due to the plastic clamp turning brittle and falling to pieces, but I absolutely agree poor workmanship is also to blame
If the flue goes out to the side over the access plate, do you have to disconnect the flue? Great video
If it goes over that plate then yeah it’s a pain mate as you can’t get access 👍
If you want, dont a broken electrode in future get hose grip plier, which makes life much easier
New tool incoming 👍 I like that cheers mate
Luke you need to go back to that job as that plastic strip at the back needs to be replaced other wise it won't seal on the red gasket it will be dangerous
Sweep test was fine I always make sure it’s sealed no readings on analyser so it’s not dangerous as I would of picked up readings if I hadn’t of sealed. Been asking about and checking up on the plastic strip, asked around 5/6 other engineers and none have come back to me to say they even knew or thought to check it but I’ve had few comments about it so I’m looking into it to get some more information if it’s a safety critical part of the boiler. Was there a Worcester bulletin about it or anything like that as it doesn’t appear to be common knowledge when I’m asking around? Appreciate you pointing it out as I will look into it to 👍