In my opinion, it's best to find a brand of paint and stick to it. You can make pretty much any color you could want with the right mixing, plus, going between brands can cause issues due to viscosity, glossiness, and other things. Having a ton of tools is fun, but sticking to your best, most comfortable tools will be better in the long run.
Spiciest product opinion - “personal massagers” are quieter, easier to use, and take up less desk space than vortex mixers.. might not be UA-camr friendly though
I have a relatively heavy and very stable desk. And my vortex mixer just makes a quiet humm. No vibrations going through the desk at all. And I wouldn't want to ever miss that particular piece of hobby-equipment ever again. So useful for shaking up my paints, I consider it one of my best hobby investments.
Same for me. I have a different vortex mixer and it's very quiet and compact (no those legs) and I feel that it is worth every penny, unlike my old cheap vortex mixer. It just mixes paints better and faster than I do manually (in both cases use agitators)
I know vortexers professionally as a laboratory biologist. There are multiple different brands, and I'm going to guess maybe a half dozen different manufacturers of the motors. Most of the vortexers I've bought for labs, if properly anchored and braced on a solid lab bench, are barely audible. I have come across a few over the years that do make a racket, usually due to an improperly balanced motor or a bad casing. Occasionally you do get a lemon.
You can change the needle in the iwata. I changed from the stock to .5 because I do larger scale statues mostly. But there are options you just buy the needle and the little tip for the inside.
Yes, would be nice if they also had a 0.2 or 0.18 size to swap out. Also would be nice if they just release an HP-BCS (the model that comes standard with 0.5mm) that is gravity feed instead of siphon feed.
I like my Grex Tritium TS. Needle/tip sizes available are 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, and 0.7. And it's a pistol grip/trigger style brush, which I personally find easier to control.
@@LylaMev Yes you can, I have the same airbrush and it can go down easily, you just need a new Nozzle & needle. (Which is stupidly expensive..... I wish I had just bought a badger as my Iwata has been nothing but problems)
@@LylaMev If your compressor with a tank is turning on when you're not using it, you have a leak. How much of a difference the tank make depends a bit on setup and use case. If your airbrush setup is right where you brush paint and you just use it for a few seconds at a time to do this or that, it won't make that much of a difference re keeping the compressor cool. If you're more into doing more sustained work, it really helps there a *lot*. Using a tankless compressor also makes it harder to get crisp clean fine lines. Honestly, if you really want your answer to this, take a look at airbrush art outside of mini painting. Notice that you probably won't find even a single person that paints on panels with a tankless compressor. Sure, you may find a guy that has repurposed an old refridgerator motor and a hardware store air tank for the job, but he *does* have a tank. Some of those guys are doing *really* fine work too so it's not just a matter of scale. To be fully honest, for a lot of questions like this, I'm finding that it's a really good idea to look outside the mini painting realm. When you do, you'll start finding out that there's plenty of stupid in this particular bubble.
@@ColonelSandersLite I think she means the tank will fill up, she'll airbrush for a couple of minutes, forget it's there and then suddenly the typically louder compressor will burst into life interrupting the previous calm.
@@LylaMev i always detach my airbrush from the compressor so there is equal pressure outside and inside the tank. if you forget you have turned it off it will keep going and the noise reminds me to turn it off :) - not sure if it works with quick release i just have the screw in and haven't seen a need for quick release. hope it helps
I figure I'd be less impressed with a vortex mixer if I could paint daily. Or at least, multiple times a week. But since I mostly manage an hour or two once a week for painting - and I can easly go over a month without the time to paint at all - it does earn it's keep for me, because my paints do get all the opportunity in the world to settle and seperate.
Since you're using one, I have a particular question that maybe you can answer - I use a cheap nail polish mixer. Works perfectly fine for dropper bottles at a fraction of the cost. It handles craft paint sized bottles just so so. Doesn't work for crap with a bigger bottle, like what you see for primers and varnishes. How does a vortex mixer handle that stuff? Is it good or not enough power to really do that job?
@@ColonelSandersLite I use a vortex mixer for GW and slightly larger pots and it works fine. I throw an agitator ball into the pot as well for 'maximum' effect. I can recommend it. :)
@@ColonelSandersLite I use a larger "Scientific" grade vortex mixer and I can mix paint in craft sized bottles (2oz/60ml) and down. The larger bottles are just too big for the vortex mixer to work properly. I don't know if they make them larger than that. So it is not a huge difference.
I'm in this boat. My paints sit still for a decent amount of time, I get to paint every other weekend or less! I use maybe 1/10 of my paints when I do a mini, so some paints sit for months.
That thing about the brushes needing to dry bristles up from Windsor Newton only makes sense if you're really thoroughly cleaning your brushes - otherwise paint getting in the ferrule is the biggest issue. If your brushes are completely clean then maybe evaporating 'upwards' helps keep the shape. Most people probably don't clean their brushes enough, though.
@@Gvaz Definitely clean after each session (and don't let your brushes dry out during a session). Wash off the sudsy soap immediately and when your brush is still wet after rinsing, spin it on the soap like you're making a nice tip to paint with. Let it try like that ideally upside down (you can use the little plastic sheath they come with) or if you have to right side up.
@@thevuntzer washing off the sudsy soap immediately is more effort than I have left when I'm done painting and doesn't seem to be doing any harm. Especially when that's another trip downstairs to get to the sink and then spending a minute or two washing the soap off several brushes and then heading back upstairs. might not seem like a lot but it feels like another spoon when I just spent a bunch
Yep,... see it the same way. Different pro-painters (I think it was Vince Venturella and someone else) tell, that if you store your wet brushes tip upside the moist and rest of paint will seep into the ferrule and you ll get pretty fast a split tip. So Leyla no reason to apologise. You are absolutly right ;). Our small brushes will dry in any direction within hours. So I dont see the problem with evaporation.
There is a painters soap we use. That doesn’t damage the hair on the brush. Along with using a cup with a tight coil in it to help with the cleaning process.
As far as I can tell about the airbrush compressor, your environment can play a huge factor in whether or not you benefit from it. Where I live, I get crazy condensation inside the airbrush which makes using the airbrush a complete pain. I have a special longer braided cable and a secondary moisture trap and I still get issues. Once i got the tank with the compressor, the problem went away. By letting the air equalize in temp from the compression chamber to my brush in the extra tank it killed the condensation issue entirely
Brand new to painting and your channel. I really respect how you don't have issues with apologizing for past comments instead of trying to put a positive spin on them.
You would certainly regret only having the H&S Infinity to do both 0.15 and 0.4 as opposed to having the excellent HP-CS for 0.3 and the Infinity for 0.15. Changing the nozzle and needle every time is a pain in the neck, having a separate brush is far far better. I have both and although technically I could make do with just the Infinity, I really wouldn't want to. By the way, I got the PaintPuck after seeing it on your channel and I wouldn't be without it now, I'm definitely taking better care of my brushes with it being somewhere convenient to hang them during a painting session.
You can get most Golden SoFlat colors between $10-20 depending on the pigments and you're getting 2 ounces of paint. Which is inline with a lot of model paints $/ounce and still much cheaper than Citadel paints. I've never regretted buying any Golden paints.
On the topic of air compressors. Air compressors with tanks are pretty nice if you live in a humid location, that tank serves as your first water trap. Speaking of which, please do NOT forget to open up the drain valve on the bottom of the tank to remove any water inside of the tank (just say NO to rusty pressure vessels kids!). I still use an inline water trap just to be extra careful, which has resulted in me not having the dreaded water splatter in my airbrushes over the last 6 years. Great video, I look forward to seeing your videos! :)
WAAAAAAAAAAAT I disagree with the Iwata, you just need to regulate the pressure to be able to glaze with it just but a quick release with a mac valve and practice, and that's it. I can even do it with a .5 needle. Nice video keep it up.
As far as I know the compressor with a tank just means the compressor isn’t running all the time, theoretically meaning you can paint longer as motor (?) doesn’t overheat as fast. At least that’s what I was told when I looked into getting my first airbrush set up.
I've heard some say that the air pressure stays more consistent as well, and doesn't fluctuate... but with my setup, I got two different regulators (one on the compressor itself, and one on a moisture trap), so I set the first one to about 50psi, and then fine adjust the second one to my desired painting psi. Overkill? Maybe...
I got the 50 liter capacity compressor and it lasts for 2 complete painting sessions (primer, zenithal, base colors and layering). The bigger the tank the better, in my opinion.
I will argue for the Golden So Flat Matte Acrylics. Are they expensive? Yes. Are they worth it? I would argue yes. They are opaque and have a nice consistency. They are also true matte and vibrant. I did buy the sets that helped build out my color options and save me a little money and then I have been slowly adding one of two tubs of the paint colors I don't have in time.
I have a similar wrist problem and the vortex shaker is a godsend, I do sometimes shake a paint by hand, but i use the mixer for most of the work and I feel much better. I use it on my thigh to keep the noise down :p And I know it can damage your hand, but I'm pretty sure you'd need to use it all the time in a lab for that to happen. But if used to mix a dozen paints every few days, I doubt it can do much harm, unlike shaking by hand in my case.
Get the GSI Creos PS-771 over the H&S Infinity. It is much more precise in the trigger activation I have an H&S airbrush, and a well known fault is that the paint activation is at different trigger pulls. The PS771 has a reputation for being much better at this. It is the same as the iwata custom micron A tank compressor is better because it will spare the piston and you get longer periods of silence. Remember to remove the drain valve when not in use, or else water will build up inside and corrode the tank
Ok, airbrushes. As a bit of background, my son and I have been in this hobby a LONG time and until Covid were yearly regulars at Wonderfest in Louisville and used to post on RPF regularly. If you were to walk out to our model room, you’d find 3(4/5?) diff types of Iwata airbrushes (including several workhorse CSs and the sometimes maligned M2), several Infinity CR+s and several Iwata air compressors including the large tank/2 regulator model which rigged to run through an electric air dryer. All in all about 10 airbrushes are usually out on the air booth station (a large downdraft Artograph). And just as important to note is just about every brand of model paint you can imagine is represented (though mostly I’d say Vallejo), this is important cause not all paints shoot the same and sometimes it’s great to leave a couple of ABs setup for them specifically when on larger or multiple simultaneous projects. Why so many? Diff MAC settings (almost all have MAC valves either built in or added, including the Infinities) on each and in the case of the Infinities, 3 diff needles and diff regulator settings (all of the ABs are hooked into a manifold w individual regulators off of the air dryer). Is a shame to hear you regret buying your CS. They are fantastic airbrushes. It’s just natural to grow your airbrush collection over time and get specific setups for your needs. That’s why we’ve acquired so many over the years. We airbrush everything from 17/28mm to 8.5’ long 1:22.5 models. Kinda sad to hear you regret the CS. It’s probably our most used model of airbrush! BTW if you do expand into Infinity’s and it’s the non-AngelG model, take a look at the trigger mod for silky operation that’s on UA-cam. Spraygunner is where we source our Infinity brushes and parts; Iwata we get from Tom at TAG team. Not associated w SG other than as a VERY happy longtime customer. Tom on the hand I consider a friend, he did teach my son and I how to airbrush oh so many moons ago 😱 and it’s hoot to hear himcomment to others that we buy airbrush cleaner from him by the gallon 😁 So in closing, if I were going to have just one airbrush…just one for ever and ever it’d be the CS. But I’d ADD an Infinity given the chance and keep the CS w no regrets 😉 PS, we have two of that model Vortex mixer and they get used constantly. Wore out several of the smaller models before getting this one. No problems w wrist (so far). We’re Kimera base set and metallic fans, all colors in each have been used, but buy individual refills for the most used colors (somehow one of their figs always jumps into the order w the paints!?). We use cheap disposable brushes a lot (glue, dry brushing, basing etc) but our go to brushes for painting a Windsor&Newton 7s and Raphael sables. Prefer Olfa knives over Xacto. Super Sculpey, 50/50 Cernit+Fimo, Apoxie and Monster Clay all get used pending the project. Smooth-On silicones and resins; Never fretted buying BMC, Dspiae (kinda fell in love w their mini desktop vac, great if there’s small parts laying around), God Hand they are all top notch and no regrets on any of those items purchased. And the list goes on 🤓 PPS air tank..it really only makes a diff IMHO in two cases 1) noise reduction (I get tired of a constantly running compressor and before someone says it, we’ve addressed the spray booth exhaust noise via a mod - hint take a look at inline combo-duct fans on Amazon) and 2) if you are doing a lot of continuous application (w/o letting trigger up) you may notice a reduction in paint pulsing. I can say on physically small models where we tend press and release quickly (not basecoating) not much of a diff. But on larger scale models, you likely will notice a diff. If I were doing it all over again, I’d buy a California Air Tools tank (UltraQuiet), they start at about a 1 gallon tank I think, over the Iwata. So having said that we do have a 50gal CAl Air Tool 220v compressor w electric air dryer and auto water drain out in the shop. Just need to get around to plumbing the copper airline (no Blue line here) into the model room. Then the Iwata compressors will all be retired (except a couple of portable ones). Cheers! As always, I emphasize YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. Nothing less. Not YTubers or influencers, so our opinions are based on our own hard earned cash and the purchases made from it. Now, back to the model room.
Hey! Great to see another WF attendee here! Been going every year since 02, except the year it didn't happen. And yeah, I too know Tom :D I usually end up a few doors down from him and spend plenty of after hours time with the TAG Team crew. That is where my CS came from. Though I didn't buy it, my daughter bought it for me for an xmas gift. (knew there was a reason I paid for her to come to the show with me all those years) Even though I have only been airbrushing for about a year now, I can see the need for multiple set ups. Eventually looking to add one with a bigger needle for blasting out base coats on big kits, and something I can leave set up for really fine detail, while leaving the CS as the every day driver.
Cool! I’d say we’ve seen each other then in the dealer room or the contest room. Tom is great. We used to go to the “University” he and Steve ran on Fridays when my son was young. Yeah, Tom, Steve, Jim (dealer room and even Matt Mrozak et al know em all. Heck Matt lives about 10 minutes from us, but we usually only see each other 11hrs from where we live, eg when we’re at Wonderfest. My boys have participated in Iron Modeller quite a few times, best part is going through the greeblies grab bag at the en. Tom and his guys were the ones that got us to start going to IPMS cons. Many a road trip from Loveland Virginia over the years. We’re hoping to start back to WF next year. My youngest son Jon-Pierre was the first to ever win a gold In the juniors division (according to John, who was contest coordinator at the time). So if you see a tall long-gray-haired guy walking around w a 6’4” young man (can’t say kid anymore) that’s us 😁. Say “hi”! PS I miss Tom’s Friday night “private” room model contest 😉 the most!
@@jessefurqueron5555 That model contest is on Saturday nights now, and is run by someone else, as Tom has had some personal setbacks the last few years, and missed a few shows. Though he did finally make his return last year. Also, if you are not aware, there is a channel that caters to us WF types on the figure kit side. Model Club TV. Done by a couple of the regulars, talk about new kits coming out, and interviews with producers, sculptors, and other hobby people.
The iwata Eclipse HP CS Is my favourite airbrush of all time a true workhorse!!! I say this with an expert opinion on airbrushes. I have reviewed many, many airbrushes over the years. Iwata are second to none in quality and performance. The harder and steenbeck is a nice airbrush I would strongly recommend the 2 in one 0.4mm and 0.2 combo set. 0.15 is not necessary really it just means you will be struggling with thinning and spraying more.
I went from a tankless compressor to a Sparmax AC-501 and the difference was huge. I wasn’t concerned with noise, but the Sparmax was much quieter. The big difference was the airflow quality which never varied. With the tankless I’d occasionally get uneven drop offs or ‘blorts’ in air pressure that could potentially ruin my paint layer. It made a big difference for me, not just in quality of painting but in confidence that I wasn’t going to get an unexpected paint problem any second.
I think your purchase in airbrush is actually fine. The vast majority of people DO get away with something like the iwata, which can have both the. 35 and. 50 needles. It really isn't the worst to have a second one like the SOTAR 2020 or Krome or such, for fien detail and keep the second one for priming and blasting. In either case I got mine used, but your choice is still probably the right one.
I ended up just collecting airbrushes myself, but I agree fully that, if funds allow, to specialize your airbrush loadouts. I keep a cheap pistol grip (still gravity feed) for priming and varnishes. My Krome Renegade and Patriots have different niches, although I think they will be effectively replaced by the Kyiv Infinity I just got. Just don't get something like the Sotar 2020 Slim unless you really want a paint cup that small and frustrating to work with.
Yeah that one seemed weird. I thought a .35mm would have done what Lyla was after. My main brush is a Badger Patriot 105/150(I forget) which has a 0.5mm and I switch to my Harder and Steenbeck Infinity for the detail stuff, which like she says is great for those tiny colour transitions, but I really would have thought somewhere between the two would have been fine. Still, she knows what she wants and if the Iwata isn't doing it for her, then it isn't doing it for her! I still use the Badger for nigh on everything even 5 years after getting the Infinity - it's still the "protect your new trainers!" product 😅
Hey Lyla. A 'Pro' tip from modeller to modeller. Drop the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity and get a Silverline Evolution 2 in 1. You get a 0,15 needle and nozzle, + a 0,3 needle and nozzle set and an additional paint cup extra, for the same money as a basic Infinity. Belive me, i got both, and both in 2 in 1 sets. It's a joy to use the Silverline, it's a real workhorse, easy to maintain, seconds to disasemble and clean.
The air tank improvement can be pretty subtle. You will get a longer life out of the air compressor components with an air tank. If you want to see what it does for you, use really low (or high? It's been a while since I tested this myself) pressure and draw thin lines. You should see the pulse of the compressor in your line without the air tank.
It depends on the compressor design and accessories, too. My first compressor and airbrush were a GREX kit, with an inline adjustment knob. The compressor output at slightly higher psi than I needed but through the adapter turned down a bit made sure that any tiny variation in the air pressure was non-existent. That said, you go from no PSI to full pretty jarringly, so having proper handling/control skills becomes extremely important. I didn't have those, and still I got smooth application and lining ... until the compressor would heat the air enough, and create enough inlne moisture it would cause problems....
I’m surprised not to see anyone mentioning the biggest benefit of compressors with a tank - no water in your airline. Tankless compressors can’t eliminate humidity fast enough, so after working for a while your airbrush will often start spitting water - ruining whatever you were doing. The main advantage of models with a tank is that they almost eliminate this issue. If you’re just doing one or two things it probably won’t arise, but if you’re priming an army or a dozen 75mm, then it becomes an issue quickly.
@@RedShirtNPC most pressure regulators have a water trap built in, which should keep water out of your line? Or, does it overload the water trap as well? I live in a desert, so the water issue doesn’t come up as much.
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Interestingly, I still recall the class at art college where we were taught how to look after our brushes. We were told never to invert the brush, ideally even when using it, as we should protect it so that no liquid of any type could get into the ferrule. Putting it point up when drying would likely lead to a ruler across the knuckles.
I bought a Makita Quiet Series air compressor that has a 1 gallon tank. In spite of the name, I still find it louder than I care for when its filling up the tank. I took a large cardboard box, lined it with egg crate foam for sound dampening and cut holes for the hose and air intake (very important). Works great! The air intake opening can also let heat escape but the engine really doesn't run long enough to generate much. The hose out of the box runs to a little regulator and pressure gauge I have mounted at the desk so its a pretty sweet little setup.
Compressors with tanks are so you can use the airbrush for longer without running out of air. It's useful for large areas (painting model planes or large Gundams for example).
The major benefit to a compressor with a tank is a more steady stream of air vs. the buffering you can get with a tankless, and when the air is compressed it heats up then condenses when it expands and cools, your tank can act as a first expansion chamber to reduce this effect and combined with a water trap can give you an increased run time for sessions with no worries about moisture ruining your work. My first set up was a tankless one and I could only get around 45 minutes before my moisture trap was overwhelmed and there would be water in the hose. Can' remember the last time I was as frustrated as I was when I saw that giant drop of water come out of the brush and completely ruin almost an hours worth of work.
Artis Opus brushes are made by Rosemary & Co. You can pick them up for cheaper under the Rosemary brand. S = Series 33 / 99 M = Series 323 / 93 D = Model Dry Brush
@@bluedotdinosaur I bought a set of those and the quality was... dubious. I mean, I'm sure the brush itself was fine, but the ferrules had come loose from the handle. The store sent me a new set though which seem better.
The smaller the nozzle in your airbrush the more problems you'll have with clogs. If you have a .3 nozzle and theres a tiny bit of dried paint in the nozzle its just going to be blasted through no probs but if you've got the .15 nozzle it takes the smallest chunk of dried paint to clog it completely. You can do some really fine stuff with the Iwata, it's just down to paint reduction and airbrush trigger control. I have the H&S infinity (and multiple Iwata's) and I ended up putting a larger nozzle/needle setup onto it because I spent most of the day cleaning out blockages. The infinity is an amazing airbrush but get the 2-in-1 option that comes with 2 different nozzles as you will probably get frustrated having to clean the .15 out constantly.
Lyla, I really appreciate your videos and reviews. I coughed up the $30 for the paint puck and the information I understood is that it’s best to let your brushes dry upside down. Supposedly, this allows for any residual paint to not get caught up in the ferrule. -Rick, USMC
That's what I've been hearing, especially in recent months. If you can't hang them upside down, they should lie flat. Sounds like there could be pros and cons to either option.
Just got one myself, I recon we should be thinking in drying stages & not a single act. Put the brushs on the puck sides when swapping to others then when the painting session is finished put away on a sideways or up right rack. Don't just leave them upside down on the puck.
I bought the paint puck partially on your recommendation and I love it. I love having the option to have the brushes held in the water but without touching the bottom. its perfect.
Cat! I love my Vortex Shaker, bought an expensive one that barely ravels my desk and is quiet. But I still put mixinf balls in there, glas ones, I find steel ones rust in GW paints. On the brushes: I have seen videos on brush care where the main info is: Don't store them tip up, gravity will pull the tip apart! I believe when it comes to brush care you do you, I use a variety of cleaners and brush soap, which helps a lot. I also paint with like 5 brushes till these are driven to destruction while having 20 or so waiting to be used. But i didn't festroy the ones I currently use properly, so no switcheros.
I've been hanging my brushes tip down for over 30 years, it is how I was taught. I have some expensive sable hair brushes I have been using since back in the 80s that are still in perfect condition now, going on almost 40 years of use - so long as you take care of them and clean them nice brushes will last you forever.
Vortex mixers are that loud, but totally change your desk top for plywood. Plywood won't warp as easily and it's very strong. Also, don't just let the top "rest" on supports. Install some small angle brackets. The last thing you want is for the top to fall or the expensive stuff you put on it to. These are cheap and quick things from the hardware store. The plywood will also be cut to size for free at Home Depot or Lowes. Love the content and the honesty. Keep up the great work
Some thoughts: 1. Replacing the needle in an airbrush is a pain. Rather than going for an airbrush that'll handle both .15 and .4, consider just getting the .15 needle and picking up some quick-release connectors. It's a lot faster to just have two airbrushes to switch between. H&S has a fantastic airbrush customizer with color options and engravings that I personally got a lot out of. 2. I'm really glad you aren't ripping on the Golden High Flows, because I absolutely love those paints. Ironically, I actually bought my own Four-E's vortex mixer because the fluo pink will turn into a strawberry milkshake if you let it sit for a year, and no amount of hand shaking would fix it. 3. I also have a large set of Artis Opus brushes. I'm not as disappointed as you, but they're absolutely my least favorite of the three brands of kolinsky sable I've tried. (First is Raphael, Second is W&N) That said, I knew full well I was buying them for the limited-edition art deco black-and-gold case, not the brushes themselves, so money well-spent. 4. The tank mostly just makes compressors quieter. A compressor without a tank should still give you steady PSI, it'll just have to be actively compressing at all times when it's on.
I was pretty disappointed when I bought the winsor Newton brushes. Maybe I messed them up or something but they don't hold a tip and are actuality splitting after a couple uses. I definitely recommend a sturdy desk for the vortex mixer. I have an old desk that does budge at all.I use mine ever time I paint.
I can't tell you how wonderful it is to see Mochi being a shit in this video. It's so great he's feeling better. 😁 Much love to you all. ♥️ I forgive you for the wrong steers. They've worked out ok for me. I bought the brush cup and hang all my brushes to dry. Maybe the WN brush drying thing is why I am still not 100% loving my series 7 brushes. 🤷🏻♀️
Regarding the compressor, I went with a CO2 tank from the local welding shack and the appropriate regulator on it. Dead silent, lasts a long time, and no worries about water in the line.
@@liberalhyena9760 it’s not that deep. I think the OP just didn’t know if Mochi was a boy or girl so used a neutral pronoun to avoid the “she’s/he’s a girl/boy”
a year after this video, to my knowledge the benefit of the compressor with the tank is simply that the motor on the compressor is not running all the time. something that might be a game changer is for air brushes that don't come with one you could try an MAC (Micro Air Control) valve for fine tuning the pressure with out having to always fiddle with the regulator on the compressor. I am not sure how it would work for mixing paints with thinners/reducers of things like that but I have lately been curious about the type of magnetic mixer used in chem labs that use a plastic coated magnet that you drop into the mixing container or a pot into which it can fit and then the magnet in the base rotates and then spins the little 'pill' to mix your paint...
My ides for a paint mixer is a device I could load up with 30-40 paints and have it just calmly rock back and forth, upside down to right side up. It doesn't have to go very fast but it does have to slowly rotate the bottles so the mixing balls can get all the paint all around the inside. Let it run overnight or all day when I'm at work and when I'm ready to paint all the paint is mixed.
First, thanks for the update on Mochi. I'm glad he's doing better :3 Second: as a newbie I love this kind of errata content. It helps me a lot in my painting journey on investing my money where it's worth. Love your videos.
Lyla before you drop $300 bucks on a Steenbecker 😊 id urge you to try taking the needle guard off and backing the trigger spring all the way off to get those poco poco adjustments on the trigger. If you’re coming to adepticon you may be able to score a badger sotar 2020 for under $100 and a high roller trigger. I know where you’re coming from about the eclipse, its heavy. The trigger is heavy with an unmodified spring, and its set way back in the middle of the body, but please be careful telling people a .15 or .20 nozzle in a boutique airbrush is going to make them more precise. These airbrush’s are finer than anything we will ever do with them.
Lyla, if you looking for the infinity, I can recommend the lighter al+ as made in the special Kyev model. Also swap the .15 for the .2. The difference in fine detail is so, so small but the .15 clogs so much more, that even h&s changed the default kit to .2 and .4 and made the .15 optional 😉
I own the infinity (.15 and .2 needle) and the new infinity AG and the differences in this version make it a must own for miniature painting imo, the trigger system has a much better feel to it and the body is shorter to allow you more control over the Airbrush in general, it might only come with 1 needle size but you can pick up bigger or smaller ones for it no problem.
I've purchased the Kyiv version in the pink color and it is absolutely a game changer. The .2 is the sweet spot for details with the .4 being great to do large surface models like cars/planes.
Super cool. We all buy stuff then try it out only to find it wasn't exactly what we needed. But pretty much all game Envy is utilitarian and awesome. Worth every penny. You rock
Also, I’ve found the exact same issue with all the Artis Opus brushes I’ve bought. I’m glad I’m not the only one, I was beginning to think I was going mad after so many people said they were amazing
I’m a Badger guy, have been for years. Although their needle sizes are a bit weird, super fine, fine, medium and large. They breakdown as .2, .3, .5 and .7mm. Easy to change needles and can spray as low as 8psi. I have 3 models, Sotar 20/20, Patriot 105 and a workhorse siphon feed Crescendo 175. High quality at nearly 1/2 the cost
I love my Iwata. Perfect for most applications. Sure, it’s not the pinpoint accuracy of a Harder Steinbeck, but I don’t need that and the price difference wouldn’t be worth it. I love my Kimera’s, but I’m loving the mixing process. There are plenty amazing options, I just enjoy Kimera a lot. And if you’re not going to be mixing the whole set definitely won’t be worth it. I really like the high flows through an airbrush. I only have a few key colors for under painting, but the price per volume isn’t as bad as this makes it sound. (Though the $45 is a bit steep…) The tank makes it so that it overheats less, controls moisture better, and sometimes improves airflow consistency. I wouldn’t go out and buy a new compressor with a tank if I already had one without, but it’s worth the bit extra for me to have the tank.
It is most excellent that Mochi has regained a proper amount of sass! I did buy an Iwata, but I'm happy with it - I lack anything near the level of talent required to be able to make use of something better. Maybe someday I will get that far in my airbrushing journey. Cheers!
10:21 Compressor with tank. The older compressors used to be pretty horrible. They relied on a diaphragm to move air and they'd 'pulse' the air. You'd get these uneven sprays with the airbrush. There's probably a lot of left over trauma in the hobby from those, so that's why the compressors with a tank are recommended. That said, they do buy you a few bonuses. The airflow will be very slightly smoother, whether you notice it or not. It's nice to have a break from the thing running constantly, and it allows the pump to cool down a bit in between runs for longer sessions and a longer lifetime. It also puts a nice buffer between your delicate airbrush and the compressor so you're less likely to get oil or something else in your line. I guess it's less critical than it was say 20 years ago, but still a nice to have if the price difference isn't that much of a factor for you.
The main thing a air tank compressor is used used for is 3 things none a really to improve your hobby more quality of life, less noise (as it's not on all the time), the other is less electricity usage for the same reason finally they tend not to burn out as easily. Air brush wise I bought 2 £25 (around $40 maybe less!) Air brushes off Amazon 1 a 0.3 needle the other 0.15 & a spare tip that's a 0.5 with a quick release valve to change them quickly if needed, been using this setup for about 2 years now & don't think I will ever go back to an expensive airbrush had an iwata eclipse that broke after about 6 months. Hope this helps. Love your colour choices & palette. Keep working on those creamy blends & cracking paint jobs :)
MOOOOOCHIIIIII!!!!!!! glad he's feeling better! and if you even remember, sorry i haven't finished my homework, health stuff keeps coming up. it's also very intimidating to put paint on models you really like and dont want to mess up
Hi for the air brush with a tank , the tank is always best option . Where I say if you air brush a lot with out a tank you paint will splutter as its so hot with a humidity of 80% that the compressor overheats as its working more constantly and the actually air pressure decreases . I used to paint gundam as well and when you air brushing large panels with primer or colour at 25-30psi the compressors with out tanks battle to keep up the pressure . How every if you are just doing short squirts of air and paint to paint a mini at lower psi you might not have noticed a difference.
You should also check out the Badger Company stuff, especially the Patriot 105 and Sotar 20/20. Both of those airbrushes are fantastic and customizable with different needle sizes, they are robust, easy to clean and the parts are readily available from Badger (and other places.) I don't work for Badger, I just am a very happy customer of theirs. Also, I'm not sure what kind of compressor you had before, but the most noticeable difference you'll have between a tankless and tanked compressor is the amount of time you can airbrush before needing to stop and let the air build back up. With most tankless designs (usually called diaphragm compressors) you will see spurting or unintended "stippling" if you use your airbrush for more than a few seconds at a time. With a compressor that has a tank, you are using the air out of the tank directly and can continue to do so even when the compressor is running since there is a small sensor inside that determines how much air is left in the tank before it refills. This way you ensure you have a nice, even flow of air coming from the brush and mixing with the paint coming out. www.badgerairbrush.com/index.html
The Iwata HP-CS is the Porsche of the workman's airbrush. However the Infinity CR Plus is the Ferrari of the airbrushes, better precision; I own both of them. So you're right. And yes for the first wave Artis Opis brushes were below par I heard. One sad thing about brushes is that Broken Toad (UK Company) have closed down about 7-9 months ago and they were great sable brushes so I was forced to switch to Rosemary & Co.
@@LylaMev I prefer Rosemary & Co Series 33 to Windsor & Newton Series 7 BUT I've noticed with that the Rosemary ones their bristles just drop out even if you look at them, so their longevity is questionable. Thankfully I have a mother in England who can get them to me cheap.
@@robertbalmforth7364 really ? are the ferules, bristles and the length and the cut of the bristles exactly the same ? if so which series of Rosemary & Co ? there are lots of Rosemary & Co. Variants. Even the R & Co. Series 33 which I like has two handle types short and long.
A quick tip that might help with the noise of your vortex mixer is a piece of foam/rubber which is used for bigher speakers or washing Machines. Those should help reduce the transfer of vibration
I have the H&S Infinity. It's a good detail brush when it wants to be, but it's finicky. Have a look at the GSI Creos PS-771 It's about 100 bucks less than the infinity and arguably better. I have both, as well as the Eclipse. They're all great tools and I'm not giving any of them up any time soon. If you want the best of the best, there isalways the Iwata Micron, @ $500 to $800. I've never used a Micron, but they say my Creos sprays exactly like one at $220.
I've been airbrushing for like forever, and love all sorts of airbrushes. One thing I've found is there is never any one airbrush that can do everything I have needed to do. Out of the Iwata line I've owned a few brushes including the HP-C. I found that the HP-C was good for bigger projects and larger coverage, but I didn't like the weight and the large center-feed cup for doing smaller detail. I liked the HP-SB Plus side feed because it could get very fine lines, it felt lighter, and having the side-feed cup meant I could see what I was doing better. (I've also had a couple of Paasche brushes I liked including the infamous AB turbine). Once upon a time a tank was especially good for relieving the pulsing of air to the airbrush. Most compressors are rotary these days instead of piston, so the pulsing is a non issue (from what I can tell). The best thing a tank is good for is if the tank is big enough the compressor fills it up and then shuts up, and you have air pressure without the noise for a while. Once upon a time I had a large studio and I had a compressed air tank that I used instead of a compressor. It was so quiet. Now I keep my compressor in an insulated box that is fan cooled so it's much quieter. One thing to remember about the tank is vent the air after every use and leave the valve open for a little while so the condensation can run out.
This was an interesting video for me because I've had the same journey with my airbrushes. I got the Iwata Eclipse and it was a pefect purchase for getting started. Then I got the H&S Infinity for more precise painting. But I still love my Eclipse and use it for 90% of my work, like priming, base coating, varnishing, etc. It's like a dependable Toyota truck. Rarley clogs, hard to damage and applies paint smoothly. I upgraded my compressor to the Iwata model with an air tank and two airbrush hookups. You can set the pressure seperately for each hookup, so I reach down and grab either airbrush without having to make any adjustments.
This is specific to her needs. It doesn't mean the tools aren't worth the money or buying. Iwata is one of the best airbrush in the market to include minature work applications. The vortex is also an amazing product. She's just afraid of her desk falling apart and probably scares the cat. The Kimera paints are designed so you can mix predictable colors, this is how they are marketed, and if you succeed at creating the desired hues, then you won't find any better paints. If you're not willing to learn and just want a quick recipe, then yes, just get your pre-mixes. I'm not sure why your artis opus brushes came out like that. Have you tried reaching out to the company? You may have received a bad batch.
Iwata does sell .5mm needle & the matching nozzle separately, although swapping between airbrushes is less of an interruption of work. Last time I went to a Hobby Lobby in Phoenix AZ, the .35 mm Iwata eclipse set was a $125! The larger needle & nozzle was also displayed, but both add to $30 total. That is a lot less than what I paid. It could be the result of a declined Yen.
I use that mixer all the time, but have run out of desk space so it lives on the carpet. No noise issues! I can definitely imagine it getting rumbly on the desktop. I have an Eclipse and Infinity myself. I don't change the tiny needle on the Infinity though, it never feels more convenient than switching back to the Eclipse for the broad strokes. They're a great team! It's not cheap, but the Iwata Power Jet Pro Air Compressor has two outputs for those of us who are careening downhill too fast to stop and change needles.
Assuming that you have invested in a QD fitting for your airbrush and hose, having a second airbrush with a smaller needle if you want that, is a lot better way to go than swapping needles back and forth on one brush.
I painted with a tankless compressor for a long time and I never noticed anything. However, when the compressor got old, I noticed a pulsating that would occur when it was running.
I've researched compressors for a range of uses, including woodworking tools, HVLP sprayers, and sandblasting. The biggest benefit of a tank for airbrushing is the lower temperature, which helps keep moisture levels down and reduces wear on the motor. You can also keep moisture out with a cheap in-line filter. If your air pressure isn't fluctuating during airbrushing then you're not pressing it hard enough to matter. This is a bigger issue with multiple painters at once. For me, it's all about the noise levels. I built an entire machine closet just to quiet down my big stationary compressor.
At this point it sounds like you're set with your setup, but there are affordable quiet compressors now. I was very surprised by a buddies' lowes' compressor. I wasn't expecting it to be as quiet as it was and the price is quite reasonable. I don't think lowes is the only one though, I think quiet compressors have just become more available and affordable.
To fix the paint mixer issue, go down to your hardware store and grab washing machine vibration feet (looks like a square of rubber noodle/gym mat). will make night and day difference (i use them with 3d printers). That said, i use an impact massage gun with a ball end instead for paint mixing.
If I may give you a piece of advice as you are used to iwata airbrush. You'll find the trigger on the H&B a bit sloppy. That can be fixed by adding 2 ptfe nozzle seals (spare part 123180) on the needle guide just behind the trigger.
The Badger SOTAR 2020 is actually your best bet on the airbrush front. I get a super fine line with it and you have the ability to change out the needles (they offer three sizes total). Best of all, they go on sale on the regular, including on Amazon. Just make sure you buy an adapter for your air hose because Badger doesn't like to play nice.
I use a very strong magnet for the first part of mixing of bottle, when the pigments are all stuck in the bottom - so i can move the steel balls arround in the thick goop at the bottom, after that mixing by hand is not that bad
Oh, for paint mixing, I also keep toothpicks, especially for white paints, shades, and contrast paints that all tend to settle. I have mixing balls that I have to break free sometimes.
As someone who worked at an art store that sold fine brushes. I worked at Daniel Smith Artist Materials in Seattle for nearly 8 years. Never let them dry bristles up. Why W & N says to do this is beyond me. Letting them dry bristles up allows the water to actually travel down the brush and into the Ferrule. This is bad for 3 reasons. One the glue in the ferrule can become somewhat soft allowing bristle to loosen and fall out. (its and even larger issue with hot water) and Two the water seeps into the wood handle causing it to swell. Which over time loosens the ferrule. Three the water can rust the ferrules over time. Other tips are 1) do not use dish soap on natural bristle brushes. Use a brush soap like General's Masters Brush Soap. Most soaps strip all of the essential oils from the hair causing them to become brittle and break. Hair conditioner can work in a pinch. Synthetic brushes are hardier and can handle harsher soaps. 2) Don't use hot water. Hot water can cause the glue to become soft and cause you to loose bristle. Luke warm water is fine. 3) Do not let them dry points up. Either lay them flat or points down to keep the ferrules from rusting and the handles from swelling and loosening the ferrules over time. Storing the brushes points up once they are dry is ok. Another brush to look at are the hand made Da Vinci Maestro Series 35. They have really fine and long points and are a little less expensive than the W & N Series 7, especially in the larger sizes.
Watch reviews by people who use airbrushes exclusively - The Art Workshop channel has great reviews. Would not buy a H&S unless willing to do the trigger mode shown by DRED FX. I went with gsi creos ps771 and ps270 - even cleaner spray than the sotar. One advantage of the HP-CS is that it clogs far less.
Airbrush compressor with a tank: The main benefit is having air pressure remain very constant. When you dont have a tank you can get some fluctuations in the airpressure especially if you are new and just constantly hold the trigger down. Its also quieter. For most beginners a cheap $40 set on amazon that has a cheap airbrush, hose, and square compressor is fine to start with. I got one a few years back when I started airbrushing and I was using that airbrush till it finally broke a few months ago. I still use the cheapo compressor and broken airbrush to "dust" my workspace and to blow dust off minis before painting.
Glad to hear that Mochi is better! Thanks for mentioning the Harder & Steenbeck. While I use my Hp-cs for general application (priming & basecoats), the H&S is just above and beyond!
I had the same issue with my vortex mixer. I just used an old work mat, the kind car mechanics or gardeners use to protect their knees. Cut it to size and the problem went away.
Ooh interesting about the compressor. I don't have any compressor, or an airbrush, but I was going to get one with a tank because I don't like the idea of it having to run constantly and annoy me with the noise (or overheat). Does it at least make things quieter? Briefly?
To anyone watching this, don’t use a vortex mixer like that. Place the paint pot on the mixer and hold it in place with your index finger on top with the rest of your fingers and thumb resting on the base of the mixer. Apply a little pressure with your index finger to get the motor spinning. 2 to 3 seconds is enough when used this way. Firmly gripping the paint pot prevents a vortex from forming in the pot. Holding it lightly makes it happen immediately. You’ll know it worked when you open the pot and see the swirl.
I've got a vortex and WOW no it's the best thing I've ever bought. I paint sporadically so my paints always need mixing. And a good like 3-5 minutes of hard shaking just to get working. 30second on the vortex and they're good to go. So yeah. Loving it.
On H&S brushes: they're great! However, you don't need the top of the line Infinity. The Evolution has all the same features and can even take the same needle sizes/kits. Get an Evo CR+ '2-in1' rather than the Infinity and the money you save gets you most of the way toward buying another needle set. The Evo '2-in1' set retails with the same 0.15 and 0.4 combination, or with an alternative 0.2 and a 0.4. At least they do here in the UK... The 0.15 is great for inks and contrast paint, but it clogs quickly with regular paint, even ranges specifically sold as 'airbrush' paint. Imho the 0.2 is the sweet spot for detail work, at least it is in my sausage fingers!
Excellent to see and hear that Mochi is feeling better! That's great news! Great video, and definitely understandable points. On the airbrush front, can definitely see where you're coming from as well. I was looking at the H&S also for a new purchase, but recently also saw some excellent vids from the Art Workshop reviewing a number of H&S as well as vids comparing several companies brushes pros and cons, although the build quality and atomization is excellent. Give and take. Personally am more interested in a consistent application at those small needle levels, but to each their own. Not sure if the Angel Giraldez model addresses it or not, might be worth looking into. Thanks again for the great content and work! Have a good one!
@@LylaMev That definitely makes sense! If using it for any under-shading or specific spots, would just recommend keeping the trigger in mind as I've seen it's inconsistent start point be a thing. Killer brush overall though. I think some people have done modifications to make the triggers more consistent as well, but I haven't looked into that so ymmv. (Edit) That said too, looks like folks like Vince Venturella were having a lot of good success with trigger controller consistency with the H&S' so it might also just be case by case *shrugs* lol.
For the Vortex mixer, you could try putting some rubber or neoprene pads on the underside and see how much that dampens the vibrations. I had similar issues with a tiny oxygen pump for my pond that was ridiculously loud due to vibrating against the wall it was mounted to ... until I simply put some small rubber pads on the backside. Now you barely hear it. 🙂
i recommend using a lash glue shaker, it basically spins your paint instead of shaking it and its much cheaper and much quieter, your paint will still need mixing balls though for thicker paints.
For the air compressor, i think the benefit in having a tank is that your compressor doesn't have to run as often or as long to deliver air. Most air compressors have some sort of duty cycle on them, or how long it can run for in 1 hours. If you're exceeding that, then you can wear out your compressor faster. I have a 3 gallon tank on mine, and i can get a good 10-15 minutes of air before the compressor kicks in again. So my compressor is really only turning on 4-6 times per hour for a couple of minutes to pressure back up.
Odd that Winsor Newton suggests you store brushes upright. 🤔🤔 I was always told in art school to store brushes on their side or facing down because you don't want water getting into the glue and loosening the bristles. Maybe there was a change in the last 10 years to how brushes are manufactured? As far as Golden paints go, you're not supposed to use them straight out of the pot like hobby paints. They pack as much pigment as possible with as little binder as possible. You're supposed to add gel medium/flow improver/etc. to get the right consistency for whatever it is you're painting. The reason they have $4,218 1 oz. jars is because pigment is the most expensive part of paint. I use Golden Open acrylics almost exclusively. You can do a 50:50 mix of paint to acrylic medium and still get the same amount of coverage as if you used it straight out of the tube. Even colors like Hansa Yellow will be completely opaque after doing this. This way you have more control over your glazes, shades, and tinting. You also end up saving a bunch of money in the long run. 16 oz. of gel medium is around $15~$25 and basically "doubles" your paint. So a 32 oz. jar of Titanium White that costs $50 can be combined with additives to make it 64 oz. of paint for $80.
Regarding cleaning brushes, I'm very new to the hobby and not using brushes nearly as high-end as yours,, but for water cup and paintbrush cleaning, I'm using a cut off Coke bottle - the texture on the bottom seems to be working pretty well so far. Am I missing something not using a puck?
Vortex mixer is one of the most convenient additions to the daily painting. If you have issues with the wrist some ingenuity is needed - get a nice, firm, ball-ish shaped sponge. Cut out a hole/indent in it so it holds the paint and hold it this way. It will dampen the vibrations enough to make it a non-issue for the wrist while still mixing WAY better than by hand. Doesn't help with your rattly desk though... but when in need, just spin them on the floor, a polystyrene base makes it almost silent on the carpet/floor. I also had a bit of a fight on Reddit about Artis Opus telling people that they are really nothing special and not worth the money (the storage box is the best part of them) - even proven the same wood, ferules and hair (just a bit more dense wick) as a regular Rosemary & Co. They are not exact, but they use the same materials with... questionable quality check. I'm happy I wasn't just going crazy on those, they were really disappointing (especially as I own all Rosemary/W&N/Raphael 8404/Da Vinci sets, Artis Opus ranked lowest, even below regular R&C). As for the compressors, ignore Iwata (those are actually, literally, same parts as Chineesium ones). IF you want a good tank compressor - Sparmax dual piston 610/620H are the ONLY ones that make any difference, yeah they are expensive AF but they do work way better than anything else (mine takes less than 15 seconds to get to full tank while being way quieter than all the others I've seen). Not to mention that due to that speed it tops up very rarely making it much quieter overall.
So, I have no idea how to use an air brush, but I can tell you the benefit of having a tank vs having just a compressor. The benefit you get is air pressure consistency. A compressors only job is.... well to compress (duh), but not every compressor does this equally, meaning that sometimes it can compress the air harder (meaning more pressure) or softer (meaning less pressure). Having the compressor feed into the tank means that the tank should (theoretically) always be at whatever pressure you set it at plus or minus a few PSI. It's essentially a buffer in between the compressor and whatever tool is on the other end. Another reason this is good is because without the tank the compressor would have to continuously run to keep the pressure running through the tool. The tank allows the compressor to rest when it is no longer needed to maintain pressure essentially giving it more life.
Give me your spiciest product opinion
The more brands of paint I own the better painter I am. That's how it works, right? Right??? *looks nervously at paint racks*
@@spilbobaggins 100%
In my opinion, it's best to find a brand of paint and stick to it. You can make pretty much any color you could want with the right mixing, plus, going between brands can cause issues due to viscosity, glossiness, and other things.
Having a ton of tools is fun, but sticking to your best, most comfortable tools will be better in the long run.
My spiciest opinion? Nuln Oil doesn't look good 🤷🏼♀️
Spiciest product opinion - “personal massagers” are quieter, easier to use, and take up less desk space than vortex mixers.. might not be UA-camr friendly though
I have a relatively heavy and very stable desk. And my vortex mixer just makes a quiet humm. No vibrations going through the desk at all. And I wouldn't want to ever miss that particular piece of hobby-equipment ever again. So useful for shaking up my paints, I consider it one of my best hobby investments.
Same for me.
I have a different vortex mixer and it's very quiet and compact (no those legs) and I feel that it is worth every penny, unlike my old cheap vortex mixer. It just mixes paints better and faster than I do manually (in both cases use agitators)
Ditto this. My extra paint bottles are right next to my Vortex, and they don’t even move. I’d replace mine immediately if it broke!
Agreed. It’s a must own for heavily pigmented washes (contrast, speed paint) cause they separate really badly
I know vortexers professionally as a laboratory biologist. There are multiple different brands, and I'm going to guess maybe a half dozen different manufacturers of the motors. Most of the vortexers I've bought for labs, if properly anchored and braced on a solid lab bench, are barely audible. I have come across a few over the years that do make a racket, usually due to an improperly balanced motor or a bad casing. Occasionally you do get a lemon.
Ditto, I use a lot of S75 paint and its a wrist saver considering how badly those bottles need to be shaked before use
You can change the needle in the iwata. I changed from the stock to .5 because I do larger scale statues mostly. But there are options you just buy the needle and the little tip for the inside.
Yes, would be nice if they also had a 0.2 or 0.18 size to swap out. Also would be nice if they just release an HP-BCS (the model that comes standard with 0.5mm) that is gravity feed instead of siphon feed.
Right! You can go larger but not smaller
I like my Grex Tritium TS. Needle/tip sizes available are 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, and 0.7. And it's a pistol grip/trigger style brush, which I personally find easier to control.
@@LylaMevYou can go 0.2 if you use parts from HP-B iirc. I bought them as regular spare parts, they fit perfectly and wirk just fine.
@@LylaMev Yes you can, I have the same airbrush and it can go down easily, you just need a new Nozzle & needle. (Which is stupidly expensive..... I wish I had just bought a badger as my Iwata has been nothing but problems)
A compressor with air tank is good for your ears and longevity of the compressor.
I some times forget I have the compressor on and it will scare the crap out of me when it turns on.
@@LylaMev If your compressor with a tank is turning on when you're not using it, you have a leak.
How much of a difference the tank make depends a bit on setup and use case. If your airbrush setup is right where you brush paint and you just use it for a few seconds at a time to do this or that, it won't make that much of a difference re keeping the compressor cool. If you're more into doing more sustained work, it really helps there a *lot*. Using a tankless compressor also makes it harder to get crisp clean fine lines.
Honestly, if you really want your answer to this, take a look at airbrush art outside of mini painting. Notice that you probably won't find even a single person that paints on panels with a tankless compressor. Sure, you may find a guy that has repurposed an old refridgerator motor and a hardware store air tank for the job, but he *does* have a tank. Some of those guys are doing *really* fine work too so it's not just a matter of scale. To be fully honest, for a lot of questions like this, I'm finding that it's a really good idea to look outside the mini painting realm. When you do, you'll start finding out that there's plenty of stupid in this particular bubble.
All the compressors I've used with tanks are MUCH louder than my little masters tankless compressor actually. It's pretty quiet.
@@ColonelSandersLite I think she means the tank will fill up, she'll airbrush for a couple of minutes, forget it's there and then suddenly the typically louder compressor will burst into life interrupting the previous calm.
@@LylaMev i always detach my airbrush from the compressor so there is equal pressure outside and inside the tank. if you forget you have turned it off it will keep going and the noise reminds me to turn it off :)
- not sure if it works with quick release i just have the screw in and haven't seen a need for quick release. hope it helps
Appreciate your honesty and revisiting some of the recommendations. Refreshing. Thank you
I figure I'd be less impressed with a vortex mixer if I could paint daily. Or at least, multiple times a week. But since I mostly manage an hour or two once a week for painting - and I can easly go over a month without the time to paint at all - it does earn it's keep for me, because my paints do get all the opportunity in the world to settle and seperate.
Since you're using one, I have a particular question that maybe you can answer -
I use a cheap nail polish mixer. Works perfectly fine for dropper bottles at a fraction of the cost. It handles craft paint sized bottles just so so. Doesn't work for crap with a bigger bottle, like what you see for primers and varnishes. How does a vortex mixer handle that stuff? Is it good or not enough power to really do that job?
@@ColonelSandersLite I use a vortex mixer for GW and slightly larger pots and it works fine. I throw an agitator ball into the pot as well for 'maximum' effect. I can recommend it. :)
@@ColonelSandersLite I use a larger "Scientific" grade vortex mixer and I can mix paint in craft sized bottles (2oz/60ml) and down. The larger bottles are just too big for the vortex mixer to work properly. I don't know if they make them larger than that. So it is not a huge difference.
@ColonelSandersLite works for a 500ml resin bottle
I'm in this boat. My paints sit still for a decent amount of time, I get to paint every other weekend or less! I use maybe 1/10 of my paints when I do a mini, so some paints sit for months.
That thing about the brushes needing to dry bristles up from Windsor Newton only makes sense if you're really thoroughly cleaning your brushes - otherwise paint getting in the ferrule is the biggest issue. If your brushes are completely clean then maybe evaporating 'upwards' helps keep the shape. Most people probably don't clean their brushes enough, though.
I clean mine, usually, after every single paint session. Usually I get the soap in there all sudsy and then wash it off another day.
@@Gvaz Definitely clean after each session (and don't let your brushes dry out during a session). Wash off the sudsy soap immediately and when your brush is still wet after rinsing, spin it on the soap like you're making a nice tip to paint with. Let it try like that ideally upside down (you can use the little plastic sheath they come with) or if you have to right side up.
@@thevuntzer washing off the sudsy soap immediately is more effort than I have left when I'm done painting and doesn't seem to be doing any harm. Especially when that's another trip downstairs to get to the sink and then spending a minute or two washing the soap off several brushes and then heading back upstairs. might not seem like a lot but it feels like another spoon when I just spent a bunch
Yep,... see it the same way. Different pro-painters (I think it was Vince Venturella and someone else) tell, that if you store your wet brushes tip upside the moist and rest of paint will seep into the ferrule and you ll get pretty fast a split tip. So Leyla no reason to apologise. You are absolutly right ;). Our small brushes will dry in any direction within hours. So I dont see the problem with evaporation.
There is a painters soap we use. That doesn’t damage the hair on the brush. Along with using a cup with a tight coil in it to help with the cleaning process.
As far as I can tell about the airbrush compressor, your environment can play a huge factor in whether or not you benefit from it. Where I live, I get crazy condensation inside the airbrush which makes using the airbrush a complete pain. I have a special longer braided cable and a secondary moisture trap and I still get issues. Once i got the tank with the compressor, the problem went away. By letting the air equalize in temp from the compression chamber to my brush in the extra tank it killed the condensation issue entirely
Same here. The air pressure is also much more consistent. Having a tank made a huge difference in my airbrushing experience.
Yes, dealing with condensation issues and a more consistent air flow are pretty much only benefits ive seen
Brand new to painting and your channel. I really respect how you don't have issues with apologizing for past comments instead of trying to put a positive spin on them.
You would certainly regret only having the H&S Infinity to do both 0.15 and 0.4 as opposed to having the excellent HP-CS for 0.3 and the Infinity for 0.15. Changing the nozzle and needle every time is a pain in the neck, having a separate brush is far far better. I have both and although technically I could make do with just the Infinity, I really wouldn't want to. By the way, I got the PaintPuck after seeing it on your channel and I wouldn't be without it now, I'm definitely taking better care of my brushes with it being somewhere convenient to hang them during a painting session.
You can get most Golden SoFlat colors between $10-20 depending on the pigments and you're getting 2 ounces of paint. Which is inline with a lot of model paints $/ounce and still much cheaper than Citadel paints. I've never regretted buying any Golden paints.
On the topic of air compressors. Air compressors with tanks are pretty nice if you live in a humid location, that tank serves as your first water trap. Speaking of which, please do NOT forget to open up the drain valve on the bottom of the tank to remove any water inside of the tank (just say NO to rusty pressure vessels kids!). I still use an inline water trap just to be extra careful, which has resulted in me not having the dreaded water splatter in my airbrushes over the last 6 years. Great video, I look forward to seeing your videos! :)
WAAAAAAAAAAAT I disagree with the Iwata, you just need to regulate the pressure to be able to glaze with it just but a quick release with a mac valve and practice, and that's it. I can even do it with a .5 needle. Nice video keep it up.
As far as I know the compressor with a tank just means the compressor isn’t running all the time, theoretically meaning you can paint longer as motor (?) doesn’t overheat as fast. At least that’s what I was told when I looked into getting my first airbrush set up.
I've heard some say that the air pressure stays more consistent as well, and doesn't fluctuate... but with my setup, I got two different regulators (one on the compressor itself, and one on a moisture trap), so I set the first one to about 50psi, and then fine adjust the second one to my desired painting psi. Overkill? Maybe...
I got the 50 liter capacity compressor and it lasts for 2 complete painting sessions (primer, zenithal, base colors and layering). The bigger the tank the better, in my opinion.
@@alexrc7333 wooh, dream setup! I wish I had room for it
I will argue for the Golden So Flat Matte Acrylics. Are they expensive? Yes. Are they worth it? I would argue yes. They are opaque and have a nice consistency. They are also true matte and vibrant. I did buy the sets that helped build out my color options and save me a little money and then I have been slowly adding one of two tubs of the paint colors I don't have in time.
I have a similar wrist problem and the vortex shaker is a godsend, I do sometimes shake a paint by hand, but i use the mixer for most of the work and I feel much better. I use it on my thigh to keep the noise down :p
And I know it can damage your hand, but I'm pretty sure you'd need to use it all the time in a lab for that to happen. But if used to mix a dozen paints every few days, I doubt it can do much harm, unlike shaking by hand in my case.
Oooo I hadn't thought of that
Using vortex mixer on your thigh people unite!
Get the GSI Creos PS-771 over the H&S Infinity.
It is much more precise in the trigger activation
I have an H&S airbrush, and a well known fault is that the paint activation is at different trigger pulls. The PS771 has a reputation for being much better at this. It is the same as the iwata custom micron
A tank compressor is better because it will spare the piston and you get longer periods of silence.
Remember to remove the drain valve when not in use, or else water will build up inside and corrode the tank
Ok, airbrushes. As a bit of background, my son and I have been in this hobby a LONG time and until Covid were yearly regulars at Wonderfest in Louisville and used to post on RPF regularly. If you were to walk out to our model room, you’d find 3(4/5?) diff types of Iwata airbrushes (including several workhorse CSs and the sometimes maligned M2), several Infinity CR+s and several Iwata air compressors including the large tank/2 regulator model which rigged to run through an electric air dryer. All in all about 10 airbrushes are usually out on the air booth station (a large downdraft Artograph). And just as important to note is just about every brand of model paint you can imagine is represented (though mostly I’d say Vallejo), this is important cause not all paints shoot the same and sometimes it’s great to leave a couple of ABs setup for them specifically when on larger or multiple simultaneous projects. Why so many? Diff MAC settings (almost all have MAC valves either built in or added, including the Infinities) on each and in the case of the Infinities, 3 diff needles and diff regulator settings (all of the ABs are hooked into a manifold w individual regulators off of the air dryer).
Is a shame to hear you regret buying your CS. They are fantastic airbrushes. It’s just natural to grow your airbrush collection over time and get specific setups for your needs. That’s why we’ve acquired so many over the years. We airbrush everything from 17/28mm to 8.5’ long 1:22.5 models. Kinda sad to hear you regret the CS. It’s probably our most used model of airbrush!
BTW if you do expand into Infinity’s and it’s the non-AngelG model, take a look at the trigger mod for silky operation that’s on UA-cam. Spraygunner is where we source our Infinity brushes and parts; Iwata we get from Tom at TAG team. Not associated w SG other than as a VERY happy longtime customer. Tom on the hand I consider a friend, he did teach my son and I how to airbrush oh so many moons ago 😱 and it’s hoot to hear himcomment to others that we buy airbrush cleaner from him by the gallon 😁
So in closing, if I were going to have just one airbrush…just one for ever and ever it’d be the CS. But I’d ADD an Infinity given the chance and keep the CS w no regrets 😉
PS, we have two of that model Vortex mixer and they get used constantly. Wore out several of the smaller models before getting this one. No problems w wrist (so far). We’re Kimera base set and metallic fans, all colors in each have been used, but buy individual refills for the most used colors (somehow one of their figs always jumps into the order w the paints!?). We use cheap disposable brushes a lot (glue, dry brushing, basing etc) but our go to brushes for painting a Windsor&Newton 7s and Raphael sables. Prefer Olfa knives over Xacto. Super Sculpey, 50/50 Cernit+Fimo, Apoxie and Monster Clay all get used pending the project. Smooth-On silicones and resins; Never fretted buying BMC, Dspiae (kinda fell in love w their mini desktop vac, great if there’s small parts laying around), God Hand they are all top notch and no regrets on any of those items purchased. And the list goes on 🤓
PPS air tank..it really only makes a diff IMHO in two cases 1) noise reduction (I get tired of a constantly running compressor and before someone says it, we’ve addressed the spray booth exhaust noise via a mod - hint take a look at inline combo-duct fans on Amazon) and 2) if you are doing a lot of continuous application (w/o letting trigger up) you may notice a reduction in paint pulsing. I can say on physically small models where we tend press and release quickly (not basecoating) not much of a diff. But on larger scale models, you likely will notice a diff. If I were doing it all over again, I’d buy a California Air Tools tank (UltraQuiet), they start at about a 1 gallon tank I think, over the Iwata. So having said that we do have a 50gal CAl Air Tool 220v compressor w electric air dryer and auto water drain out in the shop. Just need to get around to plumbing the copper airline (no Blue line here) into the model room. Then the Iwata compressors will all be retired (except a couple of portable ones).
Cheers!
As always, I emphasize YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. Nothing less. Not YTubers or influencers, so our opinions are based on our own hard earned cash and the purchases made from it. Now, back to the model room.
Hey! Great to see another WF attendee here!
Been going every year since 02, except the year it didn't happen.
And yeah, I too know Tom :D
I usually end up a few doors down from him and spend plenty of after hours time with the TAG Team crew.
That is where my CS came from. Though I didn't buy it, my daughter bought it for me for an xmas gift. (knew there was a reason I paid for her to come to the show with me all those years)
Even though I have only been airbrushing for about a year now, I can see the need for multiple set ups. Eventually looking to add one with a bigger needle for blasting out base coats on big kits, and something I can leave set up for really fine detail, while leaving the CS as the every day driver.
Cool! I’d say we’ve seen each other then in the dealer room or the contest room. Tom is great. We used to go to the “University” he and Steve ran on Fridays when my son was young. Yeah, Tom, Steve, Jim (dealer room and even Matt Mrozak et al know em all. Heck Matt lives about 10 minutes from us, but we usually only see each other 11hrs from where we live, eg when we’re at Wonderfest. My boys have participated in Iron Modeller quite a few times, best part is going through the greeblies grab bag at the en. Tom and his guys were the ones that got us to start going to IPMS cons. Many a road trip from Loveland Virginia over the years. We’re hoping to start back to WF next year. My youngest son Jon-Pierre was the first to ever win a gold In the juniors division (according to John, who was contest coordinator at the time).
So if you see a tall long-gray-haired guy walking around w a 6’4” young man (can’t say kid anymore) that’s us 😁. Say “hi”!
PS I miss Tom’s Friday night “private” room model contest 😉 the most!
PPS, we use the M2 for base coating, it excels at that, no matter the scale. It’ll shoot just about anything up to thick mud 😉
@@jessefurqueron5555 That model contest is on Saturday nights now, and is run by someone else, as Tom has had some personal setbacks the last few years, and missed a few shows. Though he did finally make his return last year.
Also, if you are not aware, there is a channel that caters to us WF types on the figure kit side. Model Club TV. Done by a couple of the regulars, talk about new kits coming out, and interviews with producers, sculptors, and other hobby people.
@@jessefurqueron5555 Will definitely keep that in mind.
The iwata Eclipse HP CS Is my favourite airbrush of all time a true workhorse!!! I say this with an expert opinion on airbrushes. I have reviewed many, many airbrushes over the years. Iwata are second to none in quality and performance. The harder and steenbeck is a nice airbrush I would strongly recommend the 2 in one 0.4mm and 0.2 combo set. 0.15 is not necessary really it just means you will be struggling with thinning and spraying more.
Glad to hear Mochi is feeling better! And yeah, every hobby I've ever gotten into has had a ton of "WHT did I buy that?" moments
He is the ****sweetest**** 😅😅
I went from a tankless compressor to a Sparmax AC-501 and the difference was huge. I wasn’t concerned with noise, but the Sparmax was much quieter. The big difference was the airflow quality which never varied. With the tankless I’d occasionally get uneven drop offs or ‘blorts’ in air pressure that could potentially ruin my paint layer. It made a big difference for me, not just in quality of painting but in confidence that I wasn’t going to get an unexpected paint problem any second.
I think your purchase in airbrush is actually fine. The vast majority of people DO get away with something like the iwata, which can have both the. 35 and. 50 needles.
It really isn't the worst to have a second one like the SOTAR 2020 or Krome or such, for fien detail and keep the second one for priming and blasting.
In either case I got mine used, but your choice is still probably the right one.
I ended up just collecting airbrushes myself, but I agree fully that, if funds allow, to specialize your airbrush loadouts. I keep a cheap pistol grip (still gravity feed) for priming and varnishes. My Krome Renegade and Patriots have different niches, although I think they will be effectively replaced by the Kyiv Infinity I just got.
Just don't get something like the Sotar 2020 Slim unless you really want a paint cup that small and frustrating to work with.
Yeah that one seemed weird. I thought a .35mm would have done what Lyla was after. My main brush is a Badger Patriot 105/150(I forget) which has a 0.5mm and I switch to my Harder and Steenbeck Infinity for the detail stuff, which like she says is great for those tiny colour transitions, but I really would have thought somewhere between the two would have been fine. Still, she knows what she wants and if the Iwata isn't doing it for her, then it isn't doing it for her!
I still use the Badger for nigh on everything even 5 years after getting the Infinity - it's still the "protect your new trainers!" product 😅
Hey Lyla.
A 'Pro' tip from modeller to modeller.
Drop the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity and get a Silverline Evolution 2 in 1.
You get a 0,15 needle and nozzle, + a 0,3 needle and nozzle set and an additional paint cup extra, for the same money as a basic Infinity.
Belive me, i got both, and both in 2 in 1 sets.
It's a joy to use the Silverline, it's a real workhorse, easy to maintain, seconds to disasemble and clean.
The air tank improvement can be pretty subtle. You will get a longer life out of the air compressor components with an air tank. If you want to see what it does for you, use really low (or high? It's been a while since I tested this myself) pressure and draw thin lines. You should see the pulse of the compressor in your line without the air tank.
Definitely, compressor with a tank makes a big difference. Also nice to not have the damned thing running constantly while painting.
It depends on the compressor design and accessories, too. My first compressor and airbrush were a GREX kit, with an inline adjustment knob. The compressor output at slightly higher psi than I needed but through the adapter turned down a bit made sure that any tiny variation in the air pressure was non-existent. That said, you go from no PSI to full pretty jarringly, so having proper handling/control skills becomes extremely important.
I didn't have those, and still I got smooth application and lining ... until the compressor would heat the air enough, and create enough inlne moisture it would cause problems....
Compressor tanks reduce ware and tear. Constant on-off cycles isn't great for motors, especially cheap ones.
I’m surprised not to see anyone mentioning the biggest benefit of compressors with a tank - no water in your airline.
Tankless compressors can’t eliminate humidity fast enough, so after working for a while your airbrush will often start spitting water - ruining whatever you were doing. The main advantage of models with a tank is that they almost eliminate this issue.
If you’re just doing one or two things it probably won’t arise, but if you’re priming an army or a dozen 75mm, then it becomes an issue quickly.
@@RedShirtNPC most pressure regulators have a water trap built in, which should keep water out of your line? Or, does it overload the water trap as well? I live in a desert, so the water issue doesn’t come up as much.
Clickbait title is clickbait, but the information is so helpful! You can find so many day 1 reviews of products that are never updated. It’s very much appreciated to get a better informed opinion after extended usage of a product.
Thank you for sharing!
Interestingly, I still recall the class at art college where we were taught how to look after our brushes. We were told never to invert the brush, ideally even when using it, as we should protect it so that no liquid of any type could get into the ferrule. Putting it point up when drying would likely lead to a ruler across the knuckles.
I bought a Makita Quiet Series air compressor that has a 1 gallon tank. In spite of the name, I still find it louder than I care for when its filling up the tank. I took a large cardboard box, lined it with egg crate foam for sound dampening and cut holes for the hose and air intake (very important). Works great!
The air intake opening can also let heat escape but the engine really doesn't run long enough to generate much.
The hose out of the box runs to a little regulator and pressure gauge I have mounted at the desk so its a pretty sweet little setup.
Compressors with tanks are so you can use the airbrush for longer without running out of air. It's useful for large areas (painting model planes or large Gundams for example).
Also to help keep the airflow consistent. The tank acts as buffer
The major benefit to a compressor with a tank is a more steady stream of air vs. the buffering you can get with a tankless, and when the air is compressed it heats up then condenses when it expands and cools, your tank can act as a first expansion chamber to reduce this effect and combined with a water trap can give you an increased run time for sessions with no worries about moisture ruining your work. My first set up was a tankless one and I could only get around 45 minutes before my moisture trap was overwhelmed and there would be water in the hose. Can' remember the last time I was as frustrated as I was when I saw that giant drop of water come out of the brush and completely ruin almost an hours worth of work.
Artis Opus brushes are made by Rosemary & Co.
You can pick them up for cheaper under the Rosemary brand.
S = Series 33 / 99
M = Series 323 / 93
D = Model Dry Brush
Well I don't like rosemary and Co either
@@LylaMev Army Painter's "master" series dry brushes are a clone of the Artist Opus dry brushes for a fraction of the price.
@@bluedotdinosaur I bought a set of those and the quality was... dubious. I mean, I'm sure the brush itself was fine, but the ferrules had come loose from the handle. The store sent me a new set though which seem better.
The smaller the nozzle in your airbrush the more problems you'll have with clogs. If you have a .3 nozzle and theres a tiny bit of dried paint in the nozzle its just going to be blasted through no probs but if you've got the .15 nozzle it takes the smallest chunk of dried paint to clog it completely. You can do some really fine stuff with the Iwata, it's just down to paint reduction and airbrush trigger control. I have the H&S infinity (and multiple Iwata's) and I ended up putting a larger nozzle/needle setup onto it because I spent most of the day cleaning out blockages. The infinity is an amazing airbrush but get the 2-in-1 option that comes with 2 different nozzles as you will probably get frustrated having to clean the .15 out constantly.
Lyla, I really appreciate your videos and reviews. I coughed up the $30 for the paint puck and the information I understood is that it’s best to let your brushes dry upside down. Supposedly, this allows for any residual paint to not get caught up in the ferrule. -Rick, USMC
That's what I've been hearing, especially in recent months. If you can't hang them upside down, they should lie flat.
Sounds like there could be pros and cons to either option.
Just got one myself, I recon we should be thinking in drying stages & not a single act.
Put the brushs on the puck sides when swapping to others then when the painting session is finished put away on a sideways or up right rack. Don't just leave them upside down on the puck.
I bought the paint puck partially on your recommendation and I love it. I love having the option to have the brushes held in the water but without touching the bottom. its perfect.
Good Mochi! I'm glad you're feeling better!
Kitteh sure was vocal today, huh?
Thank you!!
Mochi understands the cat tax.
Cat!
I love my Vortex Shaker, bought an expensive one that barely ravels my desk and is quiet. But I still put mixinf balls in there, glas ones, I find steel ones rust in GW paints. On the brushes: I have seen videos on brush care where the main info is: Don't store them tip up, gravity will pull the tip apart! I believe when it comes to brush care you do you, I use a variety of cleaners and brush soap, which helps a lot. I also paint with like 5 brushes till these are driven to destruction while having 20 or so waiting to be used. But i didn't festroy the ones I currently use properly, so no switcheros.
I've been hanging my brushes tip down for over 30 years, it is how I was taught. I have some expensive sable hair brushes I have been using since back in the 80s that are still in perfect condition now, going on almost 40 years of use - so long as you take care of them and clean them nice brushes will last you forever.
I was thinking that as long as there either up or down and not left with the bristles touching anything then they'd dry ok.
Vortex mixers are that loud, but totally change your desk top for plywood. Plywood won't warp as easily and it's very strong. Also, don't just let the top "rest" on supports. Install some small angle brackets. The last thing you want is for the top to fall or the expensive stuff you put on it to. These are cheap and quick things from the hardware store. The plywood will also be cut to size for free at Home Depot or Lowes. Love the content and the honesty. Keep up the great work
Some thoughts:
1. Replacing the needle in an airbrush is a pain. Rather than going for an airbrush that'll handle both .15 and .4, consider just getting the .15 needle and picking up some quick-release connectors. It's a lot faster to just have two airbrushes to switch between. H&S has a fantastic airbrush customizer with color options and engravings that I personally got a lot out of.
2. I'm really glad you aren't ripping on the Golden High Flows, because I absolutely love those paints. Ironically, I actually bought my own Four-E's vortex mixer because the fluo pink will turn into a strawberry milkshake if you let it sit for a year, and no amount of hand shaking would fix it.
3. I also have a large set of Artis Opus brushes. I'm not as disappointed as you, but they're absolutely my least favorite of the three brands of kolinsky sable I've tried. (First is Raphael, Second is W&N) That said, I knew full well I was buying them for the limited-edition art deco black-and-gold case, not the brushes themselves, so money well-spent.
4. The tank mostly just makes compressors quieter. A compressor without a tank should still give you steady PSI, it'll just have to be actively compressing at all times when it's on.
I was pretty disappointed when I bought the winsor Newton brushes. Maybe I messed them up or something but they don't hold a tip and are actuality splitting after a couple uses. I definitely recommend a sturdy desk for the vortex mixer. I have an old desk that does budge at all.I use mine ever time I paint.
I can't tell you how wonderful it is to see Mochi being a shit in this video. It's so great he's feeling better. 😁 Much love to you all. ♥️ I forgive you for the wrong steers. They've worked out ok for me. I bought the brush cup and hang all my brushes to dry. Maybe the WN brush drying thing is why I am still not 100% loving my series 7 brushes. 🤷🏻♀️
Regarding the compressor, I went with a CO2 tank from the local welding shack and the appropriate regulator on it. Dead silent, lasts a long time, and no worries about water in the line.
glad to see Mochi is feeling well enough to be back to their usual antics!
Yes!
Well, well, a non-binary cat. I suppose it was bound to happen.
??????
As suggested by the pronoun.
@@liberalhyena9760 it’s not that deep.
I think the OP just didn’t know if Mochi was a boy or girl so used a neutral pronoun to avoid the “she’s/he’s a girl/boy”
a year after this video, to my knowledge the benefit of the compressor with the tank is simply that the motor on the compressor is not running all the time. something that might be a game changer is for air brushes that don't come with one you could try an MAC (Micro Air Control) valve for fine tuning the pressure with out having to always fiddle with the regulator on the compressor. I am not sure how it would work for mixing paints with thinners/reducers of things like that but I have lately been curious about the type of magnetic mixer used in chem labs that use a plastic coated magnet that you drop into the mixing container or a pot into which it can fit and then the magnet in the base rotates and then spins the little 'pill' to mix your paint...
Your cat interventions are part of what makes your videos so enjoyable :) Also, thanks a bunch for the tips!
I'm glad! People used to tell me they hated them and wouldn't watch my video because of them.
@@LylaMev clearly they are people of weak character!
@@LylaMev Having the pleasure of having a much to curious kitty. I can say the added difficulty of painting with cats is severely underrated.
They are so perfect
I definitely find them endearing too! Mochi is best boi
Glad to see the kitten is doing better!
After seeing Ninjon accidentally squish his portable paint cup, I will not be using that particular item 😂
OH NO
I do like mine but still it is a risk.
My ides for a paint mixer is a device I could load up with 30-40 paints and have it just calmly rock back and forth, upside down to right side up. It doesn't have to go very fast but it does have to slowly rotate the bottles so the mixing balls can get all the paint all around the inside. Let it run overnight or all day when I'm at work and when I'm ready to paint all the paint is mixed.
First, thanks for the update on Mochi. I'm glad he's doing better :3
Second: as a newbie I love this kind of errata content. It helps me a lot in my painting journey on investing my money where it's worth.
Love your videos.
Lyla before you drop $300 bucks on a Steenbecker 😊 id urge you to try taking the needle guard off and backing the trigger spring all the way off to get those poco poco adjustments on the trigger. If you’re coming to adepticon you may be able to score a badger sotar 2020 for under $100 and a high roller trigger. I know where you’re coming from about the eclipse, its heavy. The trigger is heavy with an unmodified spring, and its set way back in the middle of the body, but please be careful telling people a .15 or .20 nozzle in a boutique airbrush is going to make them more precise. These airbrush’s are finer than anything we will ever do with them.
Lyla, if you looking for the infinity, I can recommend the lighter al+ as made in the special Kyev model. Also swap the .15 for the .2. The difference in fine detail is so, so small but the .15 clogs so much more, that even h&s changed the default kit to .2 and .4 and made the .15 optional 😉
Thanks for the info!
yeah I have a .2 and a .4 and it's all I need.
I own the infinity (.15 and .2 needle) and the new infinity AG and the differences in this version make it a must own for miniature painting imo, the trigger system has a much better feel to it and the body is shorter to allow you more control over the Airbrush in general, it might only come with 1 needle size but you can pick up bigger or smaller ones for it no problem.
I’d also recommend the 0.2 needle over the 0.15 for the H&S
I've purchased the Kyiv version in the pink color and it is absolutely a game changer. The .2 is the sweet spot for details with the .4 being great to do large surface models like cars/planes.
Super cool. We all buy stuff then try it out only to find it wasn't exactly what we needed. But pretty much all game Envy is utilitarian and awesome. Worth every penny. You rock
Also, I’ve found the exact same issue with all the Artis Opus brushes I’ve bought. I’m glad I’m not the only one, I was beginning to think I was going mad after so many people said they were amazing
Think it was Juan Hidalgo (might have mispelled that) that said they're just Rosemary brushes with a rebrand and mark up.
I've been told that by an artis opus distributor
Had the same, very disappointing experience, even the wooden box wasn't closing properly and had a wrong saw line in it
Glad I've never tried them. Only thing I ever got from them was the Ninjon texture pad. Which works ok, but isn't quite as great as made out to be.
From what I've been told, they're just rebranded Rosemary brushes which are fine for the price, but not at the marked up Artis Opus prices.
Thanks for the video Lyla! I hadn't thought about that angle for the Kimera paints! Cheers
Mochi ❤ glad he’s doing well! Hope the donations helped 🥰🍻
Yes thank you!!!
I’m a Badger guy, have been for years. Although their needle sizes are a bit weird, super fine, fine, medium and large. They breakdown as .2, .3, .5 and .7mm. Easy to change needles and can spray as low as 8psi. I have 3 models, Sotar 20/20, Patriot 105 and a workhorse siphon feed Crescendo 175. High quality at nearly 1/2 the cost
Never liked artis opus , your just paying for the name not a quality product. Loved the video and the boss wanting his hugging time lol
He is very demanding
I love my Iwata. Perfect for most applications. Sure, it’s not the pinpoint accuracy of a Harder Steinbeck, but I don’t need that and the price difference wouldn’t be worth it.
I love my Kimera’s, but I’m loving the mixing process. There are plenty amazing options, I just enjoy Kimera a lot. And if you’re not going to be mixing the whole set definitely won’t be worth it.
I really like the high flows through an airbrush. I only have a few key colors for under painting, but the price per volume isn’t as bad as this makes it sound. (Though the $45 is a bit steep…)
The tank makes it so that it overheats less, controls moisture better, and sometimes improves airflow consistency. I wouldn’t go out and buy a new compressor with a tank if I already had one without, but it’s worth the bit extra for me to have the tank.
It is most excellent that Mochi has regained a proper amount of sass! I did buy an Iwata, but I'm happy with it - I lack anything near the level of talent required to be able to make use of something better. Maybe someday I will get that far in my airbrushing journey. Cheers!
10:21 Compressor with tank. The older compressors used to be pretty horrible. They relied on a diaphragm to move air and they'd 'pulse' the air. You'd get these uneven sprays with the airbrush. There's probably a lot of left over trauma in the hobby from those, so that's why the compressors with a tank are recommended.
That said, they do buy you a few bonuses. The airflow will be very slightly smoother, whether you notice it or not. It's nice to have a break from the thing running constantly, and it allows the pump to cool down a bit in between runs for longer sessions and a longer lifetime. It also puts a nice buffer between your delicate airbrush and the compressor so you're less likely to get oil or something else in your line.
I guess it's less critical than it was say 20 years ago, but still a nice to have if the price difference isn't that much of a factor for you.
The main thing a air tank compressor is used used for is 3 things none a really to improve your hobby more quality of life, less noise (as it's not on all the time), the other is less electricity usage for the same reason finally they tend not to burn out as easily. Air brush wise I bought 2 £25 (around $40 maybe less!) Air brushes off Amazon 1 a 0.3 needle the other 0.15 & a spare tip that's a 0.5 with a quick release valve to change them quickly if needed, been using this setup for about 2 years now & don't think I will ever go back to an expensive airbrush had an iwata eclipse that broke after about 6 months.
Hope this helps.
Love your colour choices & palette. Keep working on those creamy blends & cracking paint jobs :)
Infinity is a fantastic brush, I haven’t regretted buying it for a second
MOOOOOCHIIIIII!!!!!!! glad he's feeling better! and if you even remember, sorry i haven't finished my homework, health stuff keeps coming up. it's also very intimidating to put paint on models you really like and dont want to mess up
Hi!!! Remember there is nothing wrong with stripping a model: it's just plastic!
Hi for the air brush with a tank , the tank is always best option . Where I say if you air brush a lot with out a tank you paint will splutter as its so hot with a humidity of 80% that the compressor overheats as its working more constantly and the actually air pressure decreases . I used to paint gundam as well and when you air brushing large panels with primer or colour at 25-30psi the compressors with out tanks battle to keep up the pressure . How every if you are just doing short squirts of air and paint to paint a mini at lower psi you might not have noticed a difference.
You should also check out the Badger Company stuff, especially the Patriot 105 and Sotar 20/20. Both of those airbrushes are fantastic and customizable with different needle sizes, they are robust, easy to clean and the parts are readily available from Badger (and other places.) I don't work for Badger, I just am a very happy customer of theirs.
Also, I'm not sure what kind of compressor you had before, but the most noticeable difference you'll have between a tankless and tanked compressor is the amount of time you can airbrush before needing to stop and let the air build back up. With most tankless designs (usually called diaphragm compressors) you will see spurting or unintended "stippling" if you use your airbrush for more than a few seconds at a time. With a compressor that has a tank, you are using the air out of the tank directly and can continue to do so even when the compressor is running since there is a small sensor inside that determines how much air is left in the tank before it refills. This way you ensure you have a nice, even flow of air coming from the brush and mixing with the paint coming out.
www.badgerairbrush.com/index.html
The Iwata HP-CS is the Porsche of the workman's airbrush. However the Infinity CR Plus is the Ferrari of the airbrushes, better precision; I own both of them. So you're right. And yes for the first wave Artis Opis brushes were below par I heard. One sad thing about brushes is that Broken Toad (UK Company) have closed down about 7-9 months ago and they were great sable brushes so I was forced to switch to Rosemary & Co.
oh really!? Maybe I should try them again if it was just the first wave was bad. I don't like rosemary and co. I always come back to my winsor newtons
@@LylaMev I prefer Rosemary & Co Series 33 to Windsor & Newton Series 7 BUT I've noticed with that the Rosemary ones their bristles just drop out even if you look at them, so their longevity is questionable. Thankfully I have a mother in England who can get them to me cheap.
Apparently the Artis Opus brushes are just Rosemary and Co’s with different handles.
@@robertbalmforth7364 really ? are the ferules, bristles and the length and the cut of the bristles exactly the same ? if so which series of Rosemary & Co ? there are lots of Rosemary & Co. Variants. Even the R & Co. Series 33 which I like has two handle types short and long.
I was told the same thing by an artis opus distributor that they are the same brush. Which is amusing because I don't like rosemary and Co either!
A quick tip that might help with the noise of your vortex mixer is a piece of foam/rubber which is used for bigher speakers or washing Machines. Those should help reduce the transfer of vibration
I have the H&S Infinity. It's a good detail brush when it wants to be, but it's finicky. Have a look at the GSI Creos PS-771 It's about 100 bucks less than the infinity and arguably better. I have both, as well as the Eclipse. They're all great tools and I'm not giving any of them up any time soon. If you want the best of the best, there isalways the Iwata Micron, @ $500 to $800. I've never used a Micron, but they say my Creos sprays exactly like one at $220.
I've been airbrushing for like forever, and love all sorts of airbrushes. One thing I've found is there is never any one airbrush that can do everything I have needed to do. Out of the Iwata line I've owned a few brushes including the HP-C. I found that the HP-C was good for bigger projects and larger coverage, but I didn't like the weight and the large center-feed cup for doing smaller detail. I liked the HP-SB Plus side feed because it could get very fine lines, it felt lighter, and having the side-feed cup meant I could see what I was doing better. (I've also had a couple of Paasche brushes I liked including the infamous AB turbine).
Once upon a time a tank was especially good for relieving the pulsing of air to the airbrush. Most compressors are rotary these days instead of piston, so the pulsing is a non issue (from what I can tell). The best thing a tank is good for is if the tank is big enough the compressor fills it up and then shuts up, and you have air pressure without the noise for a while. Once upon a time I had a large studio and I had a compressed air tank that I used instead of a compressor. It was so quiet. Now I keep my compressor in an insulated box that is fan cooled so it's much quieter.
One thing to remember about the tank is vent the air after every use and leave the valve open for a little while so the condensation can run out.
This was an interesting video for me because I've had the same journey with my airbrushes. I got the Iwata Eclipse and it was a pefect purchase for getting started. Then I got the H&S Infinity for more precise painting. But I still love my Eclipse and use it for 90% of my work, like priming, base coating, varnishing, etc. It's like a dependable Toyota truck. Rarley clogs, hard to damage and applies paint smoothly. I upgraded my compressor to the Iwata model with an air tank and two airbrush hookups. You can set the pressure seperately for each hookup, so I reach down and grab either airbrush without having to make any adjustments.
This is specific to her needs. It doesn't mean the tools aren't worth the money or buying. Iwata is one of the best airbrush in the market to include minature work applications. The vortex is also an amazing product. She's just afraid of her desk falling apart and probably scares the cat. The Kimera paints are designed so you can mix predictable colors, this is how they are marketed, and if you succeed at creating the desired hues, then you won't find any better paints. If you're not willing to learn and just want a quick recipe, then yes, just get your pre-mixes. I'm not sure why your artis opus brushes came out like that. Have you tried reaching out to the company? You may have received a bad batch.
Iwata does sell .5mm needle & the matching nozzle separately, although swapping between airbrushes is less of an interruption of work. Last time I went to a Hobby Lobby in Phoenix AZ, the .35 mm Iwata eclipse set was a $125! The larger needle & nozzle was also displayed, but both add to $30 total. That is a lot less than what I paid. It could be the result of a declined Yen.
Hi Lyla - set your vortex on a piece of dense foam. The foam will absorb 99% of the vibration. You might fall in love with it..
I use that mixer all the time, but have run out of desk space so it lives on the carpet. No noise issues! I can definitely imagine it getting rumbly on the desktop.
I have an Eclipse and Infinity myself. I don't change the tiny needle on the Infinity though, it never feels more convenient than switching back to the Eclipse for the broad strokes. They're a great team! It's not cheap, but the Iwata Power Jet Pro Air Compressor has two outputs for those of us who are careening downhill too fast to stop and change needles.
Assuming that you have invested in a QD fitting for your airbrush and hose, having a second airbrush with a smaller needle if you want that, is a lot better way to go than swapping needles back and forth on one brush.
I painted with a tankless compressor for a long time and I never noticed anything. However, when the compressor got old, I noticed a pulsating that would occur when it was running.
I've researched compressors for a range of uses, including woodworking tools, HVLP sprayers, and sandblasting. The biggest benefit of a tank for airbrushing is the lower temperature, which helps keep moisture levels down and reduces wear on the motor. You can also keep moisture out with a cheap in-line filter. If your air pressure isn't fluctuating during airbrushing then you're not pressing it hard enough to matter. This is a bigger issue with multiple painters at once. For me, it's all about the noise levels. I built an entire machine closet just to quiet down my big stationary compressor.
At this point it sounds like you're set with your setup, but there are affordable quiet compressors now. I was very surprised by a buddies' lowes' compressor. I wasn't expecting it to be as quiet as it was and the price is quite reasonable. I don't think lowes is the only one though, I think quiet compressors have just become more available and affordable.
To fix
the paint mixer issue, go down to your hardware store and grab washing machine vibration feet (looks like a square of rubber noodle/gym mat). will make night and day difference (i use them with 3d printers). That said, i use an impact massage gun with a ball end instead for paint mixing.
You can indeed change the needle size on the eclipse. You just also need to buy the correct nozzle for it too!
If I may give you a piece of advice as you are used to iwata airbrush. You'll find the trigger on the H&B a bit sloppy. That can be fixed by adding 2 ptfe nozzle seals (spare part 123180) on the needle guide just behind the trigger.
The Badger SOTAR 2020 is actually your best bet on the airbrush front. I get a super fine line with it and you have the ability to change out the needles (they offer three sizes total). Best of all, they go on sale on the regular, including on Amazon. Just make sure you buy an adapter for your air hose because Badger doesn't like to play nice.
I use a very strong magnet for the first part of mixing of bottle, when the pigments are all stuck in the bottom - so i can move the steel balls arround in the thick goop at the bottom, after that mixing by hand is not that bad
Oh, for paint mixing, I also keep toothpicks, especially for white paints, shades, and contrast paints that all tend to settle. I have mixing balls that I have to break free sometimes.
As someone who worked at an art store that sold fine brushes. I worked at Daniel Smith Artist Materials in Seattle for nearly 8 years. Never let them dry bristles up. Why W & N says to do this is beyond me. Letting them dry bristles up allows the water to actually travel down the brush and into the Ferrule. This is bad for 3 reasons. One the glue in the ferrule can become somewhat soft allowing bristle to loosen and fall out. (its and even larger issue with hot water) and Two the water seeps into the wood handle causing it to swell. Which over time loosens the ferrule. Three the water can rust the ferrules over time.
Other tips are
1) do not use dish soap on natural bristle brushes. Use a brush soap like General's Masters Brush Soap. Most soaps strip all of the essential oils from the hair causing them to become brittle and break. Hair conditioner can work in a pinch. Synthetic brushes are hardier and can handle harsher soaps.
2) Don't use hot water. Hot water can cause the glue to become soft and cause you to loose bristle. Luke warm water is fine.
3) Do not let them dry points up. Either lay them flat or points down to keep the ferrules from rusting and the handles from swelling and loosening the ferrules over time. Storing the brushes points up once they are dry is ok.
Another brush to look at are the hand made Da Vinci Maestro Series 35. They have really fine and long points and are a little less expensive than the W & N Series 7, especially in the larger sizes.
Watch reviews by people who use airbrushes exclusively - The Art Workshop channel has great reviews.
Would not buy a H&S unless willing to do the trigger mode shown by DRED FX.
I went with gsi creos ps771 and ps270 - even cleaner spray than the sotar.
One advantage of the HP-CS is that it clogs far less.
Airbrush compressor with a tank: The main benefit is having air pressure remain very constant. When you dont have a tank you can get some fluctuations in the airpressure especially if you are new and just constantly hold the trigger down. Its also quieter. For most beginners a cheap $40 set on amazon that has a cheap airbrush, hose, and square compressor is fine to start with. I got one a few years back when I started airbrushing and I was using that airbrush till it finally broke a few months ago. I still use the cheapo compressor and broken airbrush to "dust" my workspace and to blow dust off minis before painting.
Glad to hear that Mochi is better!
Thanks for mentioning the Harder & Steenbeck. While I use my Hp-cs for general application (priming & basecoats), the H&S is just above and beyond!
I had the same issue with my vortex mixer. I just used an old work mat, the kind car mechanics or gardeners use to protect their knees. Cut it to size and the problem went away.
Ooh interesting about the compressor. I don't have any compressor, or an airbrush, but I was going to get one with a tank because I don't like the idea of it having to run constantly and annoy me with the noise (or overheat). Does it at least make things quieter? Briefly?
To anyone watching this, don’t use a vortex mixer like that. Place the paint pot on the mixer and hold it in place with your index finger on top with the rest of your fingers and thumb resting on the base of the mixer. Apply a little pressure with your index finger to get the motor spinning. 2 to 3 seconds is enough when used this way. Firmly gripping the paint pot prevents a vortex from forming in the pot. Holding it lightly makes it happen immediately. You’ll know it worked when you open the pot and see the swirl.
I've got a vortex and WOW no it's the best thing I've ever bought. I paint sporadically so my paints always need mixing. And a good like 3-5 minutes of hard shaking just to get working. 30second on the vortex and they're good to go. So yeah. Loving it.
My partner and I saw the silicone cup on your channel and she got it for me as a gift. It's awesome! I highly recommend it.
On H&S brushes: they're great! However, you don't need the top of the line Infinity. The Evolution has all the same features and can even take the same needle sizes/kits. Get an Evo CR+ '2-in1' rather than the Infinity and the money you save gets you most of the way toward buying another needle set. The Evo '2-in1' set retails with the same 0.15 and 0.4 combination, or with an alternative 0.2 and a 0.4. At least they do here in the UK...
The 0.15 is great for inks and contrast paint, but it clogs quickly with regular paint, even ranges specifically sold as 'airbrush' paint. Imho the 0.2 is the sweet spot for detail work, at least it is in my sausage fingers!
Excellent to see and hear that Mochi is feeling better! That's great news!
Great video, and definitely understandable points. On the airbrush front, can definitely see where you're coming from as well. I was looking at the H&S also for a new purchase, but recently also saw some excellent vids from the Art Workshop reviewing a number of H&S as well as vids comparing several companies brushes pros and cons, although the build quality and atomization is excellent. Give and take.
Personally am more interested in a consistent application at those small needle levels, but to each their own. Not sure if the Angel Giraldez model addresses it or not, might be worth looking into.
Thanks again for the great content and work! Have a good one!
I thought about buying one of the special miniature specific ones, but I wanted to stick with Amazon because I had a gift card
@@LylaMev That definitely makes sense! If using it for any under-shading or specific spots, would just recommend keeping the trigger in mind as I've seen it's inconsistent start point be a thing. Killer brush overall though. I think some people have done modifications to make the triggers more consistent as well, but I haven't looked into that so ymmv.
(Edit) That said too, looks like folks like Vince Venturella were having a lot of good success with trigger controller consistency with the H&S' so it might also just be case by case *shrugs* lol.
For the Vortex mixer, you could try putting some rubber or neoprene pads on the underside and see how much that dampens the vibrations. I had similar issues with a tiny oxygen pump for my pond that was ridiculously loud due to vibrating against the wall it was mounted to ... until I simply put some small rubber pads on the backside. Now you barely hear it. 🙂
i recommend using a lash glue shaker, it basically spins your paint instead of shaking it and its much cheaper and much quieter, your paint will still need mixing balls though for thicker paints.
For the air compressor, i think the benefit in having a tank is that your compressor doesn't have to run as often or as long to deliver air. Most air compressors have some sort of duty cycle on them, or how long it can run for in 1 hours. If you're exceeding that, then you can wear out your compressor faster. I have a 3 gallon tank on mine, and i can get a good 10-15 minutes of air before the compressor kicks in again. So my compressor is really only turning on 4-6 times per hour for a couple of minutes to pressure back up.
Odd that Winsor Newton suggests you store brushes upright. 🤔🤔 I was always told in art school to store brushes on their side or facing down because you don't want water getting into the glue and loosening the bristles. Maybe there was a change in the last 10 years to how brushes are manufactured?
As far as Golden paints go, you're not supposed to use them straight out of the pot like hobby paints. They pack as much pigment as possible with as little binder as possible. You're supposed to add gel medium/flow improver/etc. to get the right consistency for whatever it is you're painting. The reason they have $4,218 1 oz. jars is because pigment is the most expensive part of paint.
I use Golden Open acrylics almost exclusively. You can do a 50:50 mix of paint to acrylic medium and still get the same amount of coverage as if you used it straight out of the tube. Even colors like Hansa Yellow will be completely opaque after doing this. This way you have more control over your glazes, shades, and tinting.
You also end up saving a bunch of money in the long run. 16 oz. of gel medium is around $15~$25 and basically "doubles" your paint. So a 32 oz. jar of Titanium White that costs $50 can be combined with additives to make it 64 oz. of paint for $80.
Thanks for the info!
Regarding cleaning brushes, I'm very new to the hobby and not using brushes nearly as high-end as yours,, but for water cup and paintbrush cleaning, I'm using a cut off Coke bottle - the texture on the bottom seems to be working pretty well so far. Am I missing something not using a puck?
I use a grex for airbrushing.
It can switch needle sizes easily without having to use a wrench.
Been a blessing
Vortex mixer is one of the most convenient additions to the daily painting. If you have issues with the wrist some ingenuity is needed - get a nice, firm, ball-ish shaped sponge. Cut out a hole/indent in it so it holds the paint and hold it this way. It will dampen the vibrations enough to make it a non-issue for the wrist while still mixing WAY better than by hand.
Doesn't help with your rattly desk though... but when in need, just spin them on the floor, a polystyrene base makes it almost silent on the carpet/floor.
I also had a bit of a fight on Reddit about Artis Opus telling people that they are really nothing special and not worth the money (the storage box is the best part of them) - even proven the same wood, ferules and hair (just a bit more dense wick) as a regular Rosemary & Co. They are not exact, but they use the same materials with... questionable quality check. I'm happy I wasn't just going crazy on those, they were really disappointing (especially as I own all Rosemary/W&N/Raphael 8404/Da Vinci sets, Artis Opus ranked lowest, even below regular R&C).
As for the compressors, ignore Iwata (those are actually, literally, same parts as Chineesium ones). IF you want a good tank compressor - Sparmax dual piston 610/620H are the ONLY ones that make any difference, yeah they are expensive AF but they do work way better than anything else (mine takes less than 15 seconds to get to full tank while being way quieter than all the others I've seen). Not to mention that due to that speed it tops up very rarely making it much quieter overall.
So, I have no idea how to use an air brush, but I can tell you the benefit of having a tank vs having just a compressor. The benefit you get is air pressure consistency. A compressors only job is.... well to compress (duh), but not every compressor does this equally, meaning that sometimes it can compress the air harder (meaning more pressure) or softer (meaning less pressure). Having the compressor feed into the tank means that the tank should (theoretically) always be at whatever pressure you set it at plus or minus a few PSI. It's essentially a buffer in between the compressor and whatever tool is on the other end. Another reason this is good is because without the tank the compressor would have to continuously run to keep the pressure running through the tool. The tank allows the compressor to rest when it is no longer needed to maintain pressure essentially giving it more life.