I went with bilsteins on my 93 convertible. Took about five hours total. Pulled the dash bulb since it has the selective ride control. Rides and handles amazing. Soft ride but tight, car stays perfectly flat no matter how fast you take a corner. Good job on the video.
@@ihaveyourpants9402 you have to remove some screws and take the middle vent and stereo cover off. Take a few screws off to loosen up the white housing and you can access the bulbs from the back. Half twist and it's out.
Well, I got the shocks out of the rear of my 89. I was able to get all of the upper bolts out. Though one I had to fight all the way and I noticed the threads looked a little flattened. And then I saw a thin piece of metal hanging out of the screw hole that I removed. So one little strip of the fine threads in that hole is now missing. Though luckily it's thick enough so there should be enough threads left to hold the bolt assuming they aren't damaged beyond fixing. I'm going to see about getting new bolts at the hardware store or something. And rent one of those thread restorers from like Autozone to chase the bolt hole threads. I'll probably put antisieze on those bolts just to help them screw back in and hopefully not strip out, and so maybe they'll come back out in the future easier too. As the bolts have a pointed tip to them, and I'm betting they'll only have that in a black version that will rust. Though I'll probably pick up some regular versions that are like nickle plated just to see if they'll even screw in without the pointed tip. As I'd prefer a nickle plating that helps prevent it from rusting into the frame of the car.
I've got the front shocks done with KYB. I didn't have to remove the wheels. I wish they had an allen keyway like what the Bilsteins generally have. I put a glove on my left hand that has a rubber grip on them. And grabbed the shock with that hand, and then I tightened the nut with my right hand as much as I could. I tried to torque that nut to 19 ft/lbs as the manual says, though I just couldn't keep it from spinning. I did get nylon lock nuts from the hardware store in place of the regular nut, though I did tighten down the jam nut on top just as backup. When you tighten a jam nut, you are supposed to use two wrenches. One to hold the main nut, and the other to tighten down the jam nut.
I went with KYB shocks. Though on the rear, the bushings on the Bilstein's are specific for that top bracket. And the KYB bushings are just generic sized that don't fit inside the large hole of that plate. And so I'll be reusing the Bilstein bushings as they are still in good shape. Though I'd guess the KYB bushings would technically work, just that the rod probably won't be centered inside the large hole in that upper bracket.
Hey awesome video. Just a heads up you can get the FX3 Bilstein shock brand new but they're called Bilstein B8 shocks. The non FX3/magnaride suspension on your sons vette has the B6 variant shock. Mine's being turned in to a Pro Touring/daily driven vette so I went with the B8's since I got the FX3. Your sons car is super clean and its nice to see the younger generation driving these bad boys.
As of October 2020, for a C5, a quick look at Rock Auto shows a full set of KYBs = $382.25 and a full set of Bilsteins = $361.56. So the German monotubes currently cost less. Great video though. Thumbs up.
So! If a front shock nut won't come off using a little wrench on the top...here is a better plan than the sawz all. Get out that pipe wrench..grab onto that upper tube and gitter done. I just did that today.
How do you like the new KYB shocks compared to the worn out Bilsteins? I ordered those same KYB shocks as I didn't feel like paying nearly $400 for shocks.
Compared to the worn out ones, these are amazing!! Compared to a good set of Bilsteins these have a softer, more plush ride. Great for everyday cruising. But definitely not as stiff in the corners. If you track your car, or regularly drive it very hard, you're going to notice the difference. Mine isn't driven hard, so im very happy with the softer ride.
@@SmoknJaysGarage Thanks. All I do is drive around town and take it on the interstate a few times a year. I think my shocks are blown as I can feel everything I drive over and the car rattles, etc.
How did you drill out the bolt on the rear shock? Working f on my 91 I also snapped one. Is it possible to go through the "trunk" area above? That angle seems impossible to fit a drill through. Did you try that? I haven't tried it so I was hoping you could save me the time and effort.
I was able to get it from the bottom. I put a drill bit on my small impact driver and was able to get a better angle with that because it's a little smaller. I didn't try going from the top.
I am currently changing the shocks on my car as well and ran into the same issue. I have been trying to drill these bolts out and having no luck. What bit did you guys use and is there a video on how to do this?
I didn't film it, no. I started to, then I broke off my tap. And ended up having to drill that out as well. The limited space and weird angle your at makes it extremely difficult.
@@SmoknJaysGarage How did you end up fixing it? I'm hoping I don't run into that problem as the rear shocks look like they are factory. And so those bolts haven't been broken loose yet.
@@colt5189 I drilled the out, re-tapped the holes and put new bolts in. I would recommend soaking them overnight in WD-40 or PB Blaster or something. As you're loosening them, alternate between loosening and tightening. Hopefully they'll come out ok.
I went with bilsteins on my 93 convertible. Took about five hours total. Pulled the dash bulb since it has the selective ride control. Rides and handles amazing. Soft ride but tight, car stays perfectly flat no matter how fast you take a corner. Good job on the video.
Bilsteins definitely handle great!
Thanks for watching.
How did you pull the bulb out?
@@ihaveyourpants9402 you have to remove some screws and take the middle vent and stereo cover off. Take a few screws off to loosen up the white housing and you can access the bulbs from the back. Half twist and it's out.
Lucky Kid, Nice Vette, Great Dad.
Well, I got the shocks out of the rear of my 89. I was able to get all of the upper bolts out. Though one I had to fight all the way and I noticed the threads looked a little flattened. And then I saw a thin piece of metal hanging out of the screw hole that I removed. So one little strip of the fine threads in that hole is now missing. Though luckily it's thick enough so there should be enough threads left to hold the bolt assuming they aren't damaged beyond fixing.
I'm going to see about getting new bolts at the hardware store or something. And rent one of those thread restorers from like Autozone to chase the bolt hole threads. I'll probably put antisieze on those bolts just to help them screw back in and hopefully not strip out, and so maybe they'll come back out in the future easier too. As the bolts have a pointed tip to them, and I'm betting they'll only have that in a black version that will rust. Though I'll probably pick up some regular versions that are like nickle plated just to see if they'll even screw in without the pointed tip. As I'd prefer a nickle plating that helps prevent it from rusting into the frame of the car.
Great video!
Nice, I just got a C4. Hope you keep making videos.
This video was a lot of help. Thank you man
Glad to be able to help.
I've got the front shocks done with KYB. I didn't have to remove the wheels. I wish they had an allen keyway like what the Bilsteins generally have. I put a glove on my left hand that has a rubber grip on them. And grabbed the shock with that hand, and then I tightened the nut with my right hand as much as I could. I tried to torque that nut to 19 ft/lbs as the manual says, though I just couldn't keep it from spinning. I did get nylon lock nuts from the hardware store in place of the regular nut, though I did tighten down the jam nut on top just as backup.
When you tighten a jam nut, you are supposed to use two wrenches. One to hold the main nut, and the other to tighten down the jam nut.
I took the wheels off because the video footage would have been very poor with them still on.
I went with KYB shocks. Though on the rear, the bushings on the Bilstein's are specific for that top bracket. And the KYB bushings are just generic sized that don't fit inside the large hole of that plate. And so I'll be reusing the Bilstein bushings as they are still in good shape. Though I'd guess the KYB bushings would technically work, just that the rod probably won't be centered inside the large hole in that upper bracket.
Hey awesome video. Just a heads up you can get the FX3 Bilstein shock brand new but they're called Bilstein B8 shocks. The non FX3/magnaride suspension on your sons vette has the B6 variant shock. Mine's being turned in to a Pro Touring/daily driven vette so I went with the B8's since I got the FX3. Your sons car is super clean and its nice to see the younger generation driving these bad boys.
Thank you. And thanks for the info too.
B8 is for lowered cars.
As of October 2020, for a C5, a quick look at Rock Auto shows a full set of KYBs = $382.25 and a full set of Bilsteins = $361.56. So the German monotubes currently cost less. Great video though. Thumbs up.
That's crazy. I paid $120 for a set of 4 KYBs less than a year ago.
@@SmoknJaysGarage i just paid 183$ Canadian for a full set of KYB's for my '92 Vette.
@@MrJimbo666 I think that's pretty on par with what I paid also.
Hopefully you got him new tires. I see dry rot.
Me too! A lot of dry rot.
So! If a front shock nut won't come off using a little wrench on the top...here is a better plan than the sawz all.
Get out that pipe wrench..grab onto that upper tube and gitter done.
I just did that today.
Sawzall is faster...and I'm not saving the old ones for anything.
But pipe wrenches are good too. 😆
@SmoknJaysGarage I have an 86...Sawzall room wasn't working.
How do you like the new KYB shocks compared to the worn out Bilsteins? I ordered those same KYB shocks as I didn't feel like paying nearly $400 for shocks.
Compared to the worn out ones, these are amazing!! Compared to a good set of Bilsteins these have a softer, more plush ride. Great for everyday cruising. But definitely not as stiff in the corners. If you track your car, or regularly drive it very hard, you're going to notice the difference. Mine isn't driven hard, so im very happy with the softer ride.
@@SmoknJaysGarage Thanks. All I do is drive around town and take it on the interstate a few times a year. I think my shocks are blown as I can feel everything I drive over and the car rattles, etc.
@@colt5189 I think you'll be happy with the KYBs then. And at least when I bought mine, they were about a quarter of the price.
How did you drill out the bolt on the rear shock? Working f on my 91 I also snapped one.
Is it possible to go through the "trunk" area above? That angle seems impossible to fit a drill through. Did you try that? I haven't tried it so I was hoping you could save me the time and effort.
I was able to get it from the bottom. I put a drill bit on my small impact driver and was able to get a better angle with that because it's a little smaller. I didn't try going from the top.
I am currently changing the shocks on my car as well and ran into the same issue. I have been trying to drill these bolts out and having no luck. What bit did you guys use and is there a video on how to do this?
Did you ever film a video of you tapping those bolts on the rear shocks on the C4?
I didn't film it, no. I started to, then I broke off my tap. And ended up having to drill that out as well. The limited space and weird angle your at makes it extremely difficult.
@@SmoknJaysGarage How did you end up fixing it? I'm hoping I don't run into that problem as the rear shocks look like they are factory. And so those bolts haven't been broken loose yet.
@@colt5189 I drilled the out, re-tapped the holes and put new bolts in.
I would recommend soaking them overnight in WD-40 or PB Blaster or something. As you're loosening them, alternate between loosening and tightening. Hopefully they'll come out ok.
How was the ride afterwards? Super soft? Noticeable difference?
The ride is really good. Not super soft, but comfortable. Firmer than before, but the old shocks were pretty worn out.
Hi , good video but where aré The 1.25 spacers friend?
They are on the rear wheels. I actually put a .75" on the driver side. That was the one that was sticking out further. Now they are even.
How stiff is the ride?
The ride is pretty nice. Softer than the stock, but still firm enough yo corner well.
@@SmoknJaysGarage Cool! Just bought me a 1990 Vette. Gonna do a little maintenance on err before the warm weather arrives. Thanks for the input.👍
@@bryanolivo8093 I'm always happy to help. Congrats on the new ride.
@@SmoknJaysGarage Thanks!
4:36 What???
That's the noise I make cuz it was tight.