I hope you get all the ad revenue that you deserve from your valuable info. So much hotrod info from the 60's is lost because the guys are gone now. You are creating the historical documents for the 2nd generation of muscle. the 90's 00's and teens will be the last muscle car era and most of us will only have your videos to describe to our grandchildren what kind of crazy power we could make back in the day. No electric motor will ever shake windows like a big power V8
My conclusion: Don't sweat the petty things & don't pet the sweaty things. Also: some boost is better than no boost! We're not all Pat Musi & don't have unlimited resources. Drive pressure vs boost pressure is IMO the best way to determine flow restriction. Keep those fairly close & you'll "decimate all." Good episode Richard. Ford 6.8 big bang please 🙏
I remember when the "390" hp Terminator Cobra came out in 03, I thought 400 factory hp was amazing, now you can buy 700+ hp, if you want, hell you can buy an electric car that runs 11's.
Love this channel, if people ask about LS stuff, I say watch Richard Holden, he'll tell you, not to mention you have saved me alot of money, as expensive things and stock things there's no difference as power
@@rotaxtwin i have the early 81 22r with double row timing chain, tall deck block, and factory cast iron tri-y manifold. I welded the v band to the final 2-1 y collector and port matched my volvo td04-14t twin scroll flange to the 2.5inch v band. Its a little turbo but im looking for low speed torque in a 1200lb street driven sand rail.
@@madmod street driven huh? Sounds like a riot at 1200 lbs, is this EFI? Also, your tri-y exhaust manifold sounds great. I put a long tube header on mine and it loved it.
@@rotaxtwin it's carbed. I have a weber single plane manifold and plan on using a blow through holley 2 barrel. Ill mod it using the hanger 19 mods and only have to do half the work since its a 2 barrel. If i have issues, ill just buy a csu carb and call it a day lol.
I've seen too many tubular turbo manifolds crack in normal use to ever consider them for anything except a pure toy or race car. For real street duty and lots of fun stock manifolds are the ticket.
I have a friend that is making like 1600 hp on truck manifolds, so I know you can make a lot on basically log manifolds, but that’s not really the question I’m interested in. I just want to see an emperical back to back test and see for myself if it’s worth the effort, to me. I am already running 40 lbs of boost on my application, so even a 5% gain at the same boost would be a big deal to me. I know it’s not to most people with mild LS builds, but on a max effort build every little bit is important.
Why 40lbs of boost? Why not install a larger turbo or turbo's run lower boost and stay within the efficiency range? I mean you want 5% and I suspect you're leaving well over 50% on the table with massively undersized setup.
@@Dayandcounting that would be an incorrect assumption but I didn’t give you much data. it’s a 2.8 liter inline 6 and was all in on the turbo that was on it. Back pressure was less than boost at 30 lbs, and about 1.25:1 at 40, so no, the turbo was not out in left field. That was as big as I would be willing to go on a single so now I built a compound turbo setup for it with an EFR8474 and a promod 88. I am actually interested in going the other way, going from a long tube header to a manifold because it would save a lot of weight and thermal mass and under hood heat.
Love it! Exhaust gas savaging attributed to using tube headers is pretty much nullified by turbo in the way. If there is any advantages here I'm pretty sure it is right off from idle. Even this could vary depending on how much boost you set it for. The higher the boost, the shorter the advantage.
You're pretty wrong on this. Headers offer the same benefits as naturally asperated builds under boost. The gains with a turbo are usually higher because the effective pressure ratio of the turbine is higher. The turbine gets more energy from the the flow while at the same time there is lower pressure at the exhaust port. Some guys say there is too much lag running headers and I find this hard to believe. I am not saying it's not possible but even a 1 3/4"*36" header is fully charged with exhaust in less than 100 milliseconds at 2000rpm on an Ls engine. The gains from fabricated tubular exhaust manifolds get higher the more boost and horsepower where right off idle, manifolds perform equally as well in some situations.
@@timothybayliss6680 - Maybe the guys complaining about lag are running 2" or larger primary tubes on a stock configuration. I could see the volume increase soaking up some of the pressure.
In my experience with single turbos I think mostly you're right,... Just get the exhaust to the turbo, shorter the distance the better. Long tubes lose too much heat. But when it's twin turbo, and all other things like primary and main tube size are similar, you can do a whole lot toward driveability with trick exhaust plumbing.
In pure, balls out drag racing with things like 5000 stall converters, trans brake, 2 steps, etc there is power in running well-designed full length headers with a large single or twins as lag isn't an issue, but pretty much everything else you're exactly right. Just get the exhaust to the turbo, keep the distance short if you can.
Headers are great, but good'ol 'log' style manifolds (cast iron) will suit easiest fitment while likely dispersing heat less quicker, keeping the heat stepped up for quicker spool, but I'm not trying to get into a debut on flow and spool characteristics that headers will offer, etc
When I worked on Twin Turbo Vipers, our cast iron manifolds and associated turbo kit made more power/psi than any other Viper system of which we were aware. All of them (the competitors) used headers. System design, considering the header/manifold, hot size housing, turbine wheel, compressor wheel etc. leads to different conclusions than many assume.
Manifolds are really good for lots of guys, it's not until you get to the very top echelons of performance do you see fabricated tubular exhaust start to dominate. Even in a September 2019 article published on Engine Labs, Richard found a 47hp gain on a cammed 5.3l with 11psi swapping to fabricated tubular manifolds. Most guys would just bump the boost to make up the difference but when you need everything the turbo can do, headers will win every single time.
@@timothybayliss6680 I think in a single variable test, that can happen. In a system vs system test, it may go differently. I suggested a setup for Eddie Bello's record holding Porsche, which he built to my recommendations. It deviated from a more traditional header setup to a very short, unequal length manifold with smaller primaries which fed a turbo with a different hotside. The car made more power on less boost and it came in sooner. Unfortunately, he had his big crash after only a few runs and retired the car. In other sports, I believe Mercedes was running a very small manifold for the first few years of the modern F1 turbo era. I forget why they switched, but clearly it worked for them. I'm not suggesting a universal truth. If you are building an engine supported by the turbo, a header may show significant benefits. If you, conversely, think of the engine as a fancy combustion chamber for a gas turbine, other design choices may be made.
Long term street or sustained track use may require fancy tubular headers made of some fancy SS or worse-- to keep them from cracking, and to get the exhaust to the turbo. My turbo car had stock fancy iron 4-2-1 manifold with turbo bolted to it---cracked. Fancy 4-1 304 SS turbo bolted to it--didnt run well. Fancy 4-2-1 321 SS with slip fit tubes and turbo supported on transaxle---YES! Iron cracks eventually. Stainless Steel moves around a lot when it heats and cools--can shear off mounting studs, crack welds, etc. Steel headers just rot quick. Use iron if you can get away with it. Yada yada yada. 😜
You said it on the plug access or burnt wires. Have the cxracing turbo manifolds and they look great but the access and ease of mounting and dismounting is such a head ache! I'm planning on swapping my cxracing headers for a set of XS turbo headers that are more of a log style after the short primaries. Hopefully I can meet the merge open with little clearance and welding needed with the the rest of hot side. Looks like I'm gonna be running a fender pipe out the fire bird after all 😂
Richard I'm disappointed with you and you call yourself a LS guru. The LS cam bearings are like Schrodinger's cat , they are only bad if you look at them . And I looked up to you this whole time .
Well I don't know if he calls himself an LS guru but he knows alot and if you are going to be testing cams you probably don't want to waste one because you didn't want to put cam bearings in it
Another great video brother. But I have to disagree with you on the tubular turbo header arguments. Plug access is easy on the tubular manifolds from underneath. REALLY easy. There’s literally nothing under there in the way. And if you just space the coils up a couple inches you can use stock plug wires with plenty of clearance. I made spacers out of some scrap sheetmetal I had laying around. I ran the eBay tubular turbo headers in an NA application for over a year and now with twin turbos. I’ve got over and inch between the plug wires and the headers and haven’t burnt one yet. Ceramic coating or wrapping the headers would also be good insurance and helps hold the heat in the headers and keep it out from under the hood. 👍
Not all truck manifolds have the same size passages, some early 4.8/5.3 manifolds are very restricted. 6.0 manifolds seem to be larger internal passages compare before you commit. I’m running modified Manifolds off a LS3 crate engine; they’re much larger than the truck manifolds. JD
Richard!!! 2 things I am requesting! 1. Coyote Big Bang!!!!! Think all your followers are waiting like little kids at Christmas time haha 2. I would like to see a dyno test NA and boosted with indexing spark plugs. Is there power in indexing plugs or not? Is it worth the time? Thanks!!
Richard, can you explain why the Honda guys usually use manifolds made from schedule 10 SS as opposed to basic exhaust piping for their turbo manifolds? I see the v8 guys making turbo manifolds out of 14-16 gauge steel and don’t have any issues.
I used mild steel tubing on my 227-mph Bonneville Civic turbo motor, there is nothing specific about Honda motors other than vibration of a 4 cylinder that would be different
For a newbie with MIG, what is easier to weld, schedule 10 to the cast manifold, or 304 gauge 16 or 409 gauge 16 to the cast manifolds? What do you think
What is the BSFC for the same power level, for example, with a pair of turbos on the ends of some long-tube headers versus the same engine with cast exhaust manifolds? EGT's will give you some clue, but won't tell the whole story.
Great stuff as usual! You published an article about manifolds vs tubular headers. Turbo Manifold Dyno Test - Cast Manifolds Vs. Tubular Race Headers. and showed that the tubular race exhaust did better. Want to comment?
Good stuff. I need a bit of advice. I have v10 8.0L Viper motor Im doing TT kit. Because of real estate restrictions my only option is t3 6266 turbos. Biggest A/R I could buy was 1.03. Wondering if this turbo combo will choke up this massive 8.0 motor. Last thing I would want is build my manifolds just to find out that this turbo is undersized being t3.
Hi Richard, love your work. Do you have twin scroll on a split pulse manifold vs single scroll turbocharger on a non pulse divided manifold comparison?
So what I learned...if you’re going for sleeper use stock manifolds with questionable looking welds. Put your money into the turbo(s). If you’re looking for intimidation get the fancy turbo manifolds.
On a remote oil filter or using a sandwich adapter for an oil feed line would it matter at all running the filter before or after the turbo ? Also if running a cooler would pre turbo benefit the turbo at all?
Have you got any data on what happens when you boost a mostly stock L05? I mean stock heads too. I'm in a country where all American Iron was privately imported and the few LS-style engines we have delivered new are hoarded jealously. Aftermarket parts like heads are similarly hard to come by. But injectors, turbos, cams, springs, and ECU's? We got that sorted. Postage ain't such a killer on that kind of stuff.
Could an air to water intercooler be used on a daily driver in areas that have 0-32 degree winters or would the water just freeze and make the intercooler nonfunctional?
I'm new too turbochargers do you think there is anyway possible a 4.3 Chevy V6 can make a 1000hp? The base motor is 12 to 1 with some heads that have been worked pretty good and had 2.08 valves put in them. A healthy solid cam and a cross ram style intake. I plan on using a blow thru carburetor and running it on methanol and a pair of huron speed 62mm turbos. What's your thoughts? Thanks for any advice in advance. 😎
Hey rich do you think there is a 5.3 or 6.0 turbo combo that would hold up to a work truck and occasionally tow medium to heavy load? I know the transmission would be more of the issue and any recommendations on which(transmission) would be good for a truck that's has do a lot of commuting and towing every so often?
I would used a 4l80e with lots of pixie dust. If you're going to daily it you want it to work right. If it's a daily and sometimes tow rig I would go pretty small on the fans. If it's a 5.3 I would do a single "GT45 ebay" or twin gt3071 or gt2871. Almost 800hp worth of flow and the tiny twins you might be able to hide. A 6.0 probably a s475 summit T4 or twin Gt35 ebay. About 1000hp available and enough engine to use it. I would avoid going smaller on the turbo because you will end up with a situation towing where you get boost before trans kick down. An Allison trans will take it but they are twice the price and weight. I have my doubts about even a 4l80 taking a 800ftlb downshift from overdrive at 2500 rpm. The summit turbo is a real borg Warner and they last for hundreds of thousands of miles on highways tractors. The factory ecu, even in mass airflow mode, can work with this. The factory tables are scalable and you just need a gm Maf sensor or equivalent to make it work without pegging. A gen4 short block is really beefy and probably not too much needs be done about it. Good luck man.
Hey richard maybe you can help? I have a Taper in the bores at around .004 using the feeler gauge method and according to the book thats fine. Im installing new rings the book is saying the end gaps should be 0.16-0.20 but they are showing up to 0.25 what say you? Should this be bored with new Pistons also the piston to bore clearance is good too
Have you ever done any testing with different types of turbo compressor “covers”? I’m curious to know more about race covers and if and when they’re useful. Would be interesting to see a side by side comparison of something like an S480 with the standard cover and then swapped to a race cover to see if it makes a difference and if it does is worth the price.
I have a 1986 33ft motorhome that the 454 crapped out on. Im looking at an LS from a truck to drop in et. Any suggestions anyoone could have on the best power , turbo for this thing to do well down the road would be gr8. I thought the 454 was weak but someone had put a holly type carb on there instead of the quadrojet inthink this came with. Been looking at your videos. Gr8 info!!
Turbos are like camshafts, you can size them to make power down low or up high. For power (boost) down low you'll pick a smaller turbo with a smaller exhaust housing A/R ratio: quicker spooling in low rpm.
Hey Richard man i have my turbo 4.8 in the car i just had the computer tuned with 80lb injectors and 3 bar map.. I did not have my charge pipe connected and started the engine its running hella rich to the point it wont rev and smoking a lot do i have to connect the charge pipe so it will run right or is it something with the tune or do i need to change spark plugs?
@@richardholdener1727 10-4 thanks for the reply was looking through all your videos to see if I could find any info about where a wastegate is placed on crossover. If it can be put on the long side due to packaging. It’s seems to be a hot topic on forum boards with answer and dyno results like you provide. Awesome work.
I get that it works and don't get hung up on 1500 dollar headers, but if it made 30 hp difference NA, it's roughly an extra 60 hp at 1 bar boost, right? For the same HP, you could turn down the boost, give it back some timing and potentially a better driving car? /edit - ya, I know...lol... everyone turns UP the boost, except me. :)
Yes you can do that, they do it on general aviation planes, just remember there will be some lag, it be like running remote turbos. If anything I'd y pipe into a collector before the turbo.
@@shadowopsairman1583 Why would a header be have more lag than a normal manifold? That doesn't make much sense to me. I thought it would make the exhaust move faster to the other side.
Not what I wanted to see at all. I wanted to see the difference in backpressure on the same applications with different manifolds and headers I wanted to see how spool time was effected. I wanted to see hp number differences between manifolds and headers. Egt differences between the two.
You touched on 1203 hp application. Most people will never touch that. What power level does it become important to reduce backpressure and see more hp from headers than you would log manifolds? I’m a numbers nerd, I’m interested in seeing all of this engines run with headers and manifolds and see the benefits or lack thereof is my main point. Of course you don’t NEED tube headers. Engines run without them and make big power without them all the time. I’d like to see same engine builds, same turbo kits, manifolds vs headers. Backpressure numbers, hp differences, spool times. Similar to when you tested remote mount systems with long tubes vs manifolds
@@traekiser213 That will _depend_ on the turbo setup in question. As long as you aren't pushing against the efficiency range it's not likely to make much difference.
Probably a rust stain from the motor sitting still a long time - unless you pull the rockers when they are stored, there's always an intake or exhaust valve open for ambient air to get into and that one probably sat open a long time. Humidity will do it.
Richard, do you still have that Honda B16 you did testing on years ago? I know an engines an engine, response will be the same between different part designs, but I would love to see a similar video featuring a back to back Dyno with any B-Series between this turbo manifold -- spaturbousa.com/products/spa-turbo-top-mount-t3-manifold-for-honda-b-series-engines-tmh04 And your average "Top-Mount" tubular style header you might find on EBay (unless you want to get a Sheepy-built tubular 😏)
One of my questions is how does this affect spool time on the turbo. I have a gt45 on a 5.3 and the turbo will light off but it just takes alot of time. Sucks driving on the street. I have a log and stock manifold. Would better hot side flow help this?
Richard can I ask your opinion on a manifold I designed about 15 years ago. In this video (about 5:30) ua-cam.com/video/E-7cM_diB9s/v-deo.html I show a manifold I designed myself. At the time the theory was that you had to have long runners, but I wanted to run a supercharger as well as a turbo, so that meant breaking from convention. Do you think this design aided or restricted flow? Oh forgot, there is a dyno chart in there too.
What he does is very interesting and informative but he does blather on too much saying the same things over again and confusing the point of what the purpose of the video is. It would be entertaining but for the fact that he seems to cause you to forget why you are watching the video . Perhaps he could do an edit to just show the important info that is the reason for the video and a longer one where he discusses it? Long tube turbo manifolds are unnecessary but a must for ultimate power and longevity. The better the breathing of the motor the more power it will make is a given but where a special set of turbo headers comes into play is in cylinder pressure and temperature consistency. If you have one or more cylinders running hotter and with more pressure than the others Knocking is more likely to occur in those cylinders leading to bent rods burnt valves etc. You can get more power out of properly designed turbo headers over stock manifolds not because they flow that much more but because you can turn the boost up more safely
I thought we was about to see a back to back turbo header vs stock manifold test lol
That would be an ideal scenario for sure.
I guess all we get is the "do they work? Yes" then puts aftermarket all over
Me too
I think we all were
Thats what I came here for.
I hope you get all the ad revenue that you deserve from your valuable info. So much hotrod info from the 60's is lost because the guys are gone now. You are creating the historical documents for the 2nd generation of muscle. the 90's 00's and teens will be the last muscle car era and most of us will only have your videos to describe to our grandchildren what kind of crazy power we could make back in the day. No electric motor will ever shake windows like a big power V8
My conclusion:
Don't sweat the petty things & don't pet the sweaty things.
Also: some boost is better than no boost! We're not all Pat Musi & don't have unlimited resources. Drive pressure vs boost pressure is IMO the best way to determine flow restriction. Keep those fairly close & you'll "decimate all." Good episode Richard. Ford 6.8 big bang please 🙏
Yes, yes, and yes!
I second the Ford 6.8 big-bang suggestion!
I still love the intro with the rave music and the slideshow
Its exercise music actually
I look forward to it everyday 😉🏁
Back when I was in high school 400 hp was the goal. Now it’s 4 times that.
. Build what you love not what’s POPULAR
Me too lmao 2008 ..ls shit was just getting hot had an 98 ss. Silver bullet lol t top 6 speed car ..sold it when I had my daughter 💪💯🇺🇲
Same here. All the cars I was obsessed about (Mustangs, Sti, Evo, Camaro etc) barely made about 300hp. And it wasn’t really that long ago.
I remember when the "390" hp Terminator Cobra came out in 03, I thought 400 factory hp was amazing, now you can buy 700+ hp, if you want, hell you can buy an electric car that runs 11's.
Plug access was the major thing I kept in mind when building my header for my 2.3 turbo.
Love this channel, if people ask about LS stuff, I say watch Richard Holden, he'll tell you, not to mention you have saved me alot of money, as expensive things and stock things there's no difference as power
I just welded a v band on my 22r exhaust manifold, then welded a v band on my little td04. Soon ill have boosted yota power in my sand rail!
I had a 20R, the exhaust manifold was essentially a cast iron reactor vessel to work w the air injection. Heavy and voluminous.
@@rotaxtwin i have the early 81 22r with double row timing chain, tall deck block, and factory cast iron tri-y manifold. I welded the v band to the final 2-1 y collector and port matched my volvo td04-14t twin scroll flange to the 2.5inch v band. Its a little turbo but im looking for low speed torque in a 1200lb street driven sand rail.
@@madmod street driven huh? Sounds like a riot at 1200 lbs, is this EFI? Also, your tri-y exhaust manifold sounds great. I put a long tube header on mine and it loved it.
@@rotaxtwin it's carbed. I have a weber single plane manifold and plan on using a blow through holley 2 barrel. Ill mod it using the hanger 19 mods and only have to do half the work since its a 2 barrel. If i have issues, ill just buy a csu carb and call it a day lol.
Good thing about this channel is that turbo kit prices will go down!
headers are so pretty though!
You are one of the best youtubers who actually knows what they are doing woot woot keep good content coming !
I've seen too many tubular turbo manifolds crack in normal use to ever consider them for anything except a pure toy or race car. For real street duty and lots of fun stock manifolds are the ticket.
I have a friend that is making like 1600 hp on truck manifolds, so I know you can make a lot on basically log manifolds, but that’s not really the question I’m interested in. I just want to see an emperical back to back test and see for myself if it’s worth the effort, to me. I am already running 40 lbs of boost on my application, so even a 5% gain at the same boost would be a big deal to me. I know it’s not to most people with mild LS builds, but on a max effort build every little bit is important.
YOU ARE ABOVE THE HP LEVEL DISCUSSED IN THE VIDEO-WE RAN HEADERS ON THE 1500-HP 6.0L
@@richardholdener1727 I'm looking forward to seeing what it does on the atlas. Very interested in the results.
Why 40lbs of boost? Why not install a larger turbo or turbo's run lower boost and stay within the efficiency range? I mean you want 5% and I suspect you're leaving well over 50% on the table with massively undersized setup.
@@Dayandcounting that would be an incorrect assumption but I didn’t give you much data. it’s a 2.8 liter inline 6 and was all in on the turbo that was on it. Back pressure was less than boost at 30 lbs, and about 1.25:1 at 40, so no, the turbo was not out in left field. That was as big as I would be willing to go on a single so now I built a compound turbo setup for it with an EFR8474 and a promod 88. I am actually interested in going the other way, going from a long tube header to a manifold because it would save a lot of weight and thermal mass and under hood heat.
Love it! Exhaust gas savaging attributed to using tube headers is pretty much nullified by turbo in the way. If there is any advantages here I'm pretty sure it is right off from idle. Even this could vary depending on how much boost you set it for. The higher the boost, the shorter the advantage.
You're pretty wrong on this. Headers offer the same benefits as naturally asperated builds under boost. The gains with a turbo are usually higher because the effective pressure ratio of the turbine is higher. The turbine gets more energy from the the flow while at the same time there is lower pressure at the exhaust port. Some guys say there is too much lag running headers and I find this hard to believe. I am not saying it's not possible but even a 1 3/4"*36" header is fully charged with exhaust in less than 100 milliseconds at 2000rpm on an Ls engine.
The gains from fabricated tubular exhaust manifolds get higher the more boost and horsepower where right off idle, manifolds perform equally as well in some situations.
@@timothybayliss6680 - Maybe the guys complaining about lag are running 2" or larger primary tubes on a stock configuration. I could see the volume increase soaking up some of the pressure.
In my experience with single turbos I think mostly you're right,... Just get the exhaust to the turbo, shorter the distance the better. Long tubes lose too much heat. But when it's twin turbo, and all other things like primary and main tube size are similar, you can do a whole lot toward driveability with trick exhaust plumbing.
In pure, balls out drag racing with things like 5000 stall converters, trans brake, 2 steps, etc there is power in running well-designed full length headers with a large single or twins as lag isn't an issue, but pretty much everything else you're exactly right. Just get the exhaust to the turbo, keep the distance short if you can.
I use my stock ls3 manifolds flipped backwards. Good video
I'm just happy we can go to the junkyard and snag a cheap engine and make 600+ hp pretty easily! It wasn't this easy back in the day!
Headers are great, but good'ol 'log' style manifolds (cast iron) will suit easiest fitment while likely dispersing heat less quicker, keeping the heat stepped up for quicker spool, but I'm not trying to get into a debut on flow and spool characteristics that headers will offer, etc
When I worked on Twin Turbo Vipers, our cast iron manifolds and associated turbo kit made more power/psi than any other Viper system of which we were aware. All of them (the competitors) used headers. System design, considering the header/manifold, hot size housing, turbine wheel, compressor wheel etc. leads to different conclusions than many assume.
Manifolds are really good for lots of guys, it's not until you get to the very top echelons of performance do you see fabricated tubular exhaust start to dominate. Even in a September 2019 article published on Engine Labs, Richard found a 47hp gain on a cammed 5.3l with 11psi swapping to fabricated tubular manifolds. Most guys would just bump the boost to make up the difference but when you need everything the turbo can do, headers will win every single time.
@@timothybayliss6680 I think in a single variable test, that can happen. In a system vs system test, it may go differently. I suggested a setup for Eddie Bello's record holding Porsche, which he built to my recommendations. It deviated from a more traditional header setup to a very short, unequal length manifold with smaller primaries which fed a turbo with a different hotside. The car made more power on less boost and it came in sooner. Unfortunately, he had his big crash after only a few runs and retired the car.
In other sports, I believe Mercedes was running a very small manifold for the first few years of the modern F1 turbo era. I forget why they switched, but clearly it worked for them.
I'm not suggesting a universal truth. If you are building an engine supported by the turbo, a header may show significant benefits. If you, conversely, think of the engine as a fancy combustion chamber for a gas turbine, other design choices may be made.
Long term street or sustained track use may require fancy tubular headers made of some fancy SS or worse-- to keep them from cracking, and to get the exhaust to the turbo.
My turbo car had stock fancy iron 4-2-1 manifold with turbo bolted to it---cracked.
Fancy 4-1 304 SS turbo bolted to it--didnt run well.
Fancy 4-2-1 321 SS with slip fit tubes and turbo supported on transaxle---YES!
Iron cracks eventually. Stainless Steel moves around a lot when it heats and cools--can shear off mounting studs, crack welds, etc. Steel headers just rot quick.
Use iron if you can get away with it.
Yada yada yada. 😜
You said it on the plug access or burnt wires. Have the cxracing turbo manifolds and they look great but the access and ease of mounting and dismounting is such a head ache! I'm planning on swapping my cxracing headers for a set of XS turbo headers that are more of a log style after the short primaries. Hopefully I can meet the merge open with little clearance and welding needed with the the rest of hot side. Looks like I'm gonna be running a fender pipe out the fire bird after all 😂
Richard the hardest working gear head ever.
Richard I'm disappointed with you and you call yourself a LS guru. The LS cam bearings are like Schrodinger's cat , they are only bad if you look at them . And I looked up to you this whole time .
Well I don't know if he calls himself an LS guru but he knows alot and if you are going to be testing cams you probably don't want to waste one because you didn't want to put cam bearings in it
@@james10739 bro he was obviously joking... 🤦♂️
lol yep cam bearing can be thought of as both bad and good until you open the engine.
THE CAT WAS DEAD ON THIS ONE
Another great video brother. But I have to disagree with you on the tubular turbo header arguments. Plug access is easy on the tubular manifolds from underneath. REALLY easy. There’s literally nothing under there in the way. And if you just space the coils up a couple inches you can use stock plug wires with plenty of clearance. I made spacers out of some scrap sheetmetal I had laying around. I ran the eBay tubular turbo headers in an NA application for over a year and now with twin turbos. I’ve got over and inch between the plug wires and the headers and haven’t burnt one yet. Ceramic coating or wrapping the headers would also be good insurance and helps hold the heat in the headers and keep it out from under the hood. 👍
Ohh.. I asked for this.. thanks Richard :-)
Can you do this test back to back same everything except manifolds vs headers? Would be a highly viewed banger for sure
Not all truck manifolds have the same size passages, some early 4.8/5.3 manifolds are very restricted. 6.0 manifolds seem to be larger internal passages compare before you commit.
I’m running modified Manifolds off a LS3 crate engine; they’re much larger than the truck manifolds. JD
Richard!!! 2 things I am requesting!
1. Coyote Big Bang!!!!! Think all your followers are waiting like little kids at Christmas time haha
2. I would like to see a dyno test NA and boosted with indexing spark plugs. Is there power in indexing plugs or not? Is it worth the time?
Thanks!!
I doubt indexing plugs does much
@@richardholdener1727 Mythbusting. Some old school guys swear by it.
Richard, can you explain why the Honda guys usually use manifolds made from schedule 10 SS as opposed to basic exhaust piping for their turbo manifolds? I see the v8 guys making turbo manifolds out of 14-16 gauge steel and don’t have any issues.
I used mild steel tubing on my 227-mph Bonneville Civic turbo motor, there is nothing specific about Honda motors other than vibration of a 4 cylinder that would be different
For a newbie with MIG, what is easier to weld, schedule 10 to the cast manifold, or 304 gauge 16 or 409 gauge 16 to the cast manifolds? What do you think
I'm not a welder
@@richardholdener1727 don't worry :) maybe some other viewer might help
Love your videos you should do an old school iron Duke on boost or a ford 2.3 or Toyota 2.2
What is the BSFC for the same power level, for example, with a pair of turbos on the ends of some long-tube headers versus the same engine with cast exhaust manifolds? EGT's will give you some clue, but won't tell the whole story.
Great stuff as usual! You published an article about manifolds vs tubular headers. Turbo Manifold Dyno Test - Cast Manifolds Vs. Tubular Race Headers. and showed that the tubular race exhaust did better. Want to comment?
Wife likes the intro music!
It would be cool if you did a test on rhodes lifters on a SBC or equivalent just to see how well the work or don't work.
Good stuff. I need a bit of advice. I have v10 8.0L Viper motor Im doing TT kit. Because of real estate restrictions my only option is t3 6266 turbos. Biggest A/R I could buy was 1.03. Wondering if this turbo combo will choke up this massive 8.0 motor. Last thing I would want is build my manifolds just to find out that this turbo is undersized being t3.
t3 is pretty small for a 8.0L motor
2 x 6266 turbos with 1.03 rear housing will be fine. The turbine wheel flows well, and it’s only seeing 4L each turbo. Absolutely fine
Hi Richard, love your work. Do you have twin scroll on a split pulse manifold vs single scroll turbocharger on a non pulse divided manifold comparison?
I don't
hahahaha, 10:05..had me reach'n for my cell phone. ... same notification sound.
So what I learned...if you’re going for sleeper use stock manifolds with questionable looking welds. Put your money into the turbo(s).
If you’re looking for intimidation get the fancy turbo manifolds.
I’d like to see Tri y turbo headers vs manifolds, just to see if the matched exhaust pulses spool the turbo faster
On a remote oil filter or using a sandwich adapter for an oil feed line would it matter at all running the filter before or after the turbo ? Also if running a cooler would pre turbo benefit the turbo at all?
Richard, I'd like to see a comparison of oil pans. With the windage trays and see if there is any power difference like a big block has.
Hey Richard can you do a 3.4L chevy camaro or firebird with a turbo or supercharger
Have you got any data on what happens when you boost a mostly stock L05? I mean stock heads too.
I'm in a country where all American Iron was privately imported and the few LS-style engines we have delivered new are hoarded jealously. Aftermarket parts like heads are similarly hard to come by. But injectors, turbos, cams, springs, and ECU's? We got that sorted. Postage ain't such a killer on that kind of stuff.
Hey Richard. Stupid question. If you fit 2 x 700hp turbos to an engine. Can you make 1400hp? With all the necessary parts.
YES
Could an air to water intercooler be used on a daily driver in areas that have 0-32 degree winters or would the water just freeze and make the intercooler nonfunctional?
it could freeze and crack-but ice would still act as a cooling medium (til the melted boundary layer heated up)
I'm new too turbochargers do you think there is anyway possible a 4.3 Chevy V6 can make a 1000hp? The base motor is 12 to 1 with some heads that have been worked pretty good and had 2.08 valves put in them. A healthy solid cam and a cross ram style intake. I plan on using a blow thru carburetor and running it on methanol and a pair of huron speed 62mm turbos. What's your thoughts? Thanks for any advice in advance. 😎
Would an extension off a log manifold for a “2.3” 4 cylinder Honda work fine? For relocating purposes if it’s no longer then 2-3 inches
yes
@@richardholdener1727 cool thanks
what would be a great test would be to take this template and apply it to the other guys Ford 400M with stock compression and heads
I think that would depend greatly upon just how restrictive your stock manifolds are. Some (unlike the LS offerings) are pretty bad.
Can you use long tubes as turbo manifolds?
YES
Why was the power @8.7# boost lower than expected?
8.7/14.68= .592 multiplier.
450hp x 1.592= 716.4hp
possible tune
Great content Richard.. not sure who welded those flanges at 0:02 intro 🤮
Ray Charles, using a MIG with no gas, during an earthquake.
@@button-puncher might not be too far off the mark. I am no welding expert, but when I saw that I thought damn even I could do better than that.
Hey rich do you think there is a 5.3 or 6.0 turbo combo that would hold up to a work truck and occasionally tow medium to heavy load? I know the transmission would be more of the issue and any recommendations on which(transmission)
would be good for a truck that's has do a lot of commuting and towing every so often?
I would used a 4l80e with lots of pixie dust. If you're going to daily it you want it to work right. If it's a daily and sometimes tow rig I would go pretty small on the fans. If it's a 5.3 I would do a single "GT45 ebay" or twin gt3071 or gt2871. Almost 800hp worth of flow and the tiny twins you might be able to hide. A 6.0 probably a s475 summit T4 or twin Gt35 ebay. About 1000hp available and enough engine to use it. I would avoid going smaller on the turbo because you will end up with a situation towing where you get boost before trans kick down. An Allison trans will take it but they are twice the price and weight. I have my doubts about even a 4l80 taking a 800ftlb downshift from overdrive at 2500 rpm. The summit turbo is a real borg Warner and they last for hundreds of thousands of miles on highways tractors. The factory ecu, even in mass airflow mode, can work with this. The factory tables are scalable and you just need a gm Maf sensor or equivalent to make it work without pegging.
A gen4 short block is really beefy and probably not too much needs be done about it.
Good luck man.
Hey richard maybe you can help? I have a Taper in the bores at around .004 using the feeler gauge method and according to the book thats fine. Im installing new rings the book is saying the end gaps should be 0.16-0.20 but they are showing up to 0.25 what say you? Should this be bored with new Pistons also the piston to bore clearance is good too
What do you think of Block Hugger headers? I am going to use a set on a mild 383 SBC in my IHC Scout II.
Have you ever done any testing with different types of turbo compressor “covers”?
I’m curious to know more about race covers and if and when they’re useful. Would be interesting to see a side by side comparison of something like an S480 with the standard cover and then swapped to a race cover to see if it makes a difference and if it does is worth the price.
On a 6.0 can you run short headers flipped forward and down and they clear the accessories?
I doubt it-we don't run accessories-usually guys cut off the end of the stock manifolds and weld on something that fits their chassis
Have the stock manifolds extrude honed #sleeper
I wonder how much it costs to get iron manifolds extrude honed.
@@eddiehennig7835 Probably more than buying the eBay turbo headers, truthfully
I've never heard of hp proformance. And can't find that turbo kit that uses the stick exhaust. Can you send a link please
NO LONGER IN BUSINESS
I need to know what works and how effective the junk is compared to the mid priced turbo header option
THE JUNK IS ALL YOU NEED-THE HEADERS DO LITTLE OR NOTHING AT THIS POWER LEVEL
How much boost can stock 4 gen pistons and rods take ? Plannin on boosting 6.2
we did 1543 hp with a stock bottom end gen 4 6.0L
Did they hand port the heads or did they put them on a machine?
hand finish
Personally I blame squirrels
Dam tree rats
I have a 1986 33ft motorhome that the 454 crapped out on. Im looking at an LS from a truck to drop in et. Any suggestions anyoone could have on the best power , turbo for this thing to do well down the road would be gr8. I thought the 454 was weak but someone had put a holly type carb on there instead of the quadrojet inthink this came with. Been looking at your videos. Gr8 info!!
You'll be losing torque in the rpm band you want to be in.
I’d love to see a 408 stroker vs a 6.0 with cam head intake
AW chit ! fix'n to hit that 160k sub mark ! !
ALMOST
What about a turbo setup for towing on a small block chevy?
Do it
Turbos are like camshafts, you can size them to make power down low or up high.
For power (boost) down low you'll pick a smaller turbo with a smaller exhaust housing A/R ratio: quicker spooling in low rpm.
@@383mazdau r right.
@@safetyfirstintexas i think it would be very interesting to see.
Headers crack on turbo engines exhaust manifold rarely do
how much are these mods your doing...turbo...intake...tb..injectors
Richard is there a best stock manifold or are they all the same? Doing a 5.3L in a 96 S10. Thanks!
we use truck mans
Hey Richard man i have my turbo 4.8 in the car i just had the computer tuned with 80lb injectors and 3 bar map.. I did not have my charge pipe connected and started the engine its running hella rich to the point it wont rev and smoking a lot do i have to connect the charge pipe so it will run right or is it something with the tune or do i need to change spark plugs?
Tune
how do you have the wastegates plumbed. 1 hose to bottom and the other to the cap?
WE RUN IT DIFFERENT WAYS DEPENDING ON THE CONTROLLER USED
@@richardholdener1727 10-4 thanks for the reply was looking through all your videos to see if I could find any info about where a wastegate is placed on crossover. If it can be put on the long side due to packaging. It’s seems to be a hot topic on forum boards with answer and dyno results like you provide. Awesome work.
I would say the y pipe is rpm dependent
the Y pipe?
I get that it works and don't get hung up on 1500 dollar headers, but if it made 30 hp difference NA, it's roughly an extra 60 hp at 1 bar boost, right? For the same HP, you could turn down the boost, give it back some timing and potentially a better driving car? /edit - ya, I know...lol... everyone turns UP the boost, except me. :)
I doubt they add 30 hp na of 60 hp under boost
Great video
Dont sweat the petty stuff pet the sweaty stuff
How much do u gap those rings?
What about a long tube header on driver's side running into a turbo manifold on passenger side?
Yes you can do that, they do it on general aviation planes, just remember there will be some lag, it be like running remote turbos. If anything I'd y pipe into a collector before the turbo.
That’s what I did. Well my drivers side is a mid length. I made the crossover and turbo log myself. It works great. 4th Gen Camaro.
@@shadowopsairman1583 Why would a header be have more lag than a normal manifold? That doesn't make much sense to me. I thought it would make the exhaust move faster to the other side.
Right on
great info
This music bro. Love the videos, despite it.
Not critical, but beneficial?
Not what I wanted to see at all. I wanted to see the difference in backpressure on the same applications with different manifolds and headers I wanted to see how spool time was effected. I wanted to see hp number differences between manifolds and headers. Egt differences between the two.
I was also hoping for something like that 🤔
YOU DON'T NEED TUBE HEADERS FOR THE REASONS LISTED AT THIS POWER LEVEL
You touched on 1203 hp application. Most people will never touch that. What power level does it become important to reduce backpressure and see more hp from headers than you would log manifolds? I’m a numbers nerd, I’m interested in seeing all of this engines run with headers and manifolds and see the benefits or lack thereof is my main point. Of course you don’t NEED tube headers. Engines run without them and make big power without them all the time. I’d like to see same engine builds, same turbo kits, manifolds vs headers. Backpressure numbers, hp differences, spool times. Similar to when you tested remote mount systems with long tubes vs manifolds
@@traekiser213 That will _depend_ on the turbo setup in question. As long as you aren't pushing against the efficiency range it's not likely to make much difference.
What is that big booger down in the cylinder?
Probably a rust stain from the motor sitting still a long time - unless you pull the rockers when they are stored, there's always an intake or exhaust valve open for ambient air to get into and that one probably sat open a long time. Humidity will do it.
I literally just watched a guy bloviate about the physics of using equal length headers and science then ....BAM! YOU PROVE IT'S ALL BULLSHIT
turbo headers?!?!?! It is a tubular turbo manifold. A header is only for an NA application. You should know this Richard.
so if we have an na header and add a turbo-it is no longer a header?
Dude, PLEASE stop using screencast-o-matic. OBS is free and doesn't watermark your video
WHY DOES IT MATTER
It doesnt. If you are looking at that the test data is up and right. Focus over there.
Can you torture test cx racing and cx racing wastegates ???!?!?
torture test?
@@richardholdener1727 yes I mean just doing pulls at different psi to see if they creep an when
Plumming makes a super charger seem like a good idea. Depends on application.
It’s like he was talking to me
Richard, do you still have that Honda B16 you did testing on years ago? I know an engines an engine, response will be the same between different part designs, but I would love to see a similar video featuring a back to back Dyno with any B-Series between this turbo manifold --
spaturbousa.com/products/spa-turbo-top-mount-t3-manifold-for-honda-b-series-engines-tmh04
And your average "Top-Mount" tubular style header you might find on EBay (unless you want to get a Sheepy-built tubular 😏)
One of my questions is how does this affect spool time on the turbo. I have a gt45 on a 5.3 and the turbo will light off but it just takes alot of time. Sucks driving on the street. I have a log and stock manifold. Would better hot side flow help this?
I doubt that the response rate is a hot side flow issue
how many people checked there phone at 10:05?
I didn't see a direct comparison between manifolds and headers on the same engine. Just lots of different engines running either or.
Dude love yeah but why are all your videos LS based? Just gets old after a 1000 video's of LS stuff.
Log manifold...
WTF MAN? NO DIRECT BACK TO BACK???
Richard can I ask your opinion on a manifold I designed about 15 years ago. In this video (about 5:30) ua-cam.com/video/E-7cM_diB9s/v-deo.html I show a manifold I designed myself. At the time the theory was that you had to have long runners, but I wanted to run a supercharger as well as a turbo, so that meant breaking from convention. Do you think this design aided or restricted flow? Oh forgot, there is a dyno chart in there too.
What he does is very interesting and informative but he does blather on too much saying the same things over again and confusing the point of what the purpose of the video is. It would be entertaining but for the fact that he seems to cause you to forget why you are watching the video . Perhaps he could do an edit to just show the important info that is the reason for the video and a longer one where he discusses it?
Long tube turbo manifolds are unnecessary but a must for ultimate power and longevity.
The better the breathing of the motor the more power it will make is a given but where a special set of turbo headers comes into play is in cylinder pressure and temperature consistency. If you have one or more cylinders running hotter and with more pressure than the others Knocking is more likely to occur in those cylinders leading to bent rods burnt valves etc.
You can get more power out of properly designed turbo headers over stock manifolds not because they flow that much more but because you can turn the boost up more safely
... and it passed smog.