You blow away myths with your methodic way of testing. Always great to learn, and look how many people you keep from wasting their money on combos that really dont work well together!
I like you’re videos. Useful information with the Dyno sheets to back it up. I’ve been debating on doing turbo on my ls swapped s2000 and I think I’m sold on it now. Thanks buddy.
@@applebitefool believe it or not all factory components except the t56 and ls. Handles well except I lost cornering. Maybe with better sway bars and after market suspension I might be able to get it somewhat better. Still the straight line performance is worth it.
@@christopherhoward3822 If you decide to go ahead with a turbo, you should consider subframe connectors and whatever bracing the pros are using as well as beefed up axles and diff.
Quick Spool Valve are magic for bottom end . On power in ¼ the distance stoplight to stop light. Made my 1st gen stock tune Cummins /160hp tune drive like the 400hp sbc350 in a 6k lb 79 Chevy k20. my setup was set to minimum/ spring pressure open at 18psi and would hold open down to15psi boost. At 1800rpm, dip my tow and jump from 10psi to 15 instant response through the hx35/12 @6cm closed.
Twincharging for small displacement motors. Where you run a roots blower set to 7psi (technically to a PR of 1.5). Low boost minimizes parasitic loss but effectively increases displacement by 50%. The supercharger magnifies the smaller engines displacement allowing you to run a larger turbo. I was going to do this on my 2.0L Zetec Contour using a T3-S60 turbo feeding an Eaton M62 supercharger (Focus JRSC). It got totaled so the build never got completed. I still wish I could have finished it. Thanks Richard for all of your hard work. I love the channel. Awesome content. Packed with hard data.
Gale Banks found that a twincharged setup like you are saying, the blower added no value above a certain rpm/output, but, alas, they did not engineer a system to just bypass it with the turbo boost as did Ford on their RS100 rally car. However, with a straight-lobe, old-school Roots, it may be a different story.
With an auto where your converter flashes determines your minimum needed boost threshold. Going lower just hurts top end without improving vehicle dynamics
The knowledge you have is incredible! I really appreciate your videos. I’m trying to build a turbo kit for my 5vz-fe and would love to pick your brain on it.
Quick spool valve is the only way to go. It will add an average 100hp. I have one on my compound diesel and I’m starting to spool up about 1300 rpm and my low pressure large turbo will pick up about the time my smaller high pressure turbo starts to peter out giving me a constant spoolup from 1300 to over 5k
I hate that when it.comes to performance you essentially have to chose if you want it down low and immediate or get it running high in thr rev range always higher then 7k lol. I have grown to live turbo.bc they can hook better and be manipulated through tuning and with holley ecus you can even control your boost ramp through real time tuning or to run boost by rpm, boost per mph, so one n so forth. It's more logical for getting traction bc the boost doesn't usually roll In until aftrt you've left the line which.helps to not immediately blow the tire off. That is along as your not popping and banging spitting out fire like a damn mythical dragon bouncing off the rev limiter with the 2 step lol
@@robertbailey3057 Correction: you can have all-RPM-torque if you want to spend the time and money to have multiple turbos controlled in such a way as to keep those cylinders full all the way to idle RPM levels. But, are you willing to do what is necessary to find that? Mazda did in some measure with their sequential-turbo rotary RX7, but, alas, most do not have the inclination to do that. For ultimate broad-spectrum torque, you can use a large Roots blower, some turbos, a centrifugal blower, even Garrett's electric turbo. However, low compression at low RPM will be needed to stave off detonation.
Great video, Richard. I think another test I’d like to see added to this is the effect of a typical ‘full exhaust’ (after the downpipe) like one would put on a street car and it’s effect on spool time and overall hp, maybe at a couple of different power levels. Thanks.
@@BoHorror he won't, he still has most of the newer mod motors, the entire ecoboost family, some Mercedes motors, several dodge motors, the Honda J series, tons of Toyota motors, and more.
@@BoHorror if you read car mags the last 25 years, you'd see most of these tests/data is rehashed from them. Still very relevant, but the info has been out there, documented in writing for a while now.
That would be wild to tune. You'd have to pull timing off the hit for n20 but then increase fuel output increasing with rpm to feed all that air starting to rapidly be crammed down its throat bc at this rpm range boost is rolling in and then assuming your meth kit only engages at wot you'd have to also specifically tune the top end with the neccesary precautions. Basically each stage...low mid and high rpm range works have a highly custom tune that is drastically different from the other two. I have a question I have tossed around the idea of switching to e85 with meth injection and running no intercooler. What's your experience with something like that. What kind of #s or times have you saw with your set up?
Man, I know how it goes having to sell my streetcar bc life happens and those nonneccessities are the first to go when shit hits the fan. I love those old t types. I'm sure even as a roller.it still.fetched a decent buck. Those are respectable numbers. Can't compare apples to oranges. Nowadays you got guys on the street running in the 3s in the 8th mile and cars coming race ready off the showroom.floor and then these unexperienced idiots with money are driving around in 10 second dailys thinking their bought not built cars are badass. If rather take that pile of $ they dropped and build my ultimate.dream car. When I was young in the 90s we were in a hp drought and now cars.came out that we're over 300hp. Then they even cameout with v6 versions of mustangs and camaros. Sad days The.epa.robbed the 80s and 90s of anything resembling hp. The hottest car back then was a 5.0 foxbody which still only came with 225 hp. There was the turbo t types and grand nationals that were way ahead of their.time with using turbos and a 6cylinder not typical 8!
A lot of the low end gain in spool is not from heat into the exhaust but the drag being reduced from warm oil on the turbo turbine shaft. Heat energy does not help spin the shaft but reducing the exhaust temperature does lead to a smaller volume of gas going through the turbine. Heat the hot side of a turbo with a torch till it glows and you will see it still sits at 0rpm with all the heat energy it can handle
The Heat Energy Really Surprised Me. My Jeep Would Never Spool Up More Then 3 PSI At The Drag Strip Brake Boosting. But Anywhere Else It Would Easily Spool Up 8-10 And Launch Bad Out Of Hell Being AWD. I Should Have Let It Get Hot In The Staging Lanes. I Always Thought It Was DA For The Track But I Checked DA Where I Normally Test Launches At Home And It Was The Same. My Jeep Just Wants People To Think It Can't Launch At The Drag Strip So It Surprises You On The Street hahah
my set up comes on like a hart attack .and I have a LSX 430 cube motor with a gt 55 - 94 and a lot of it is velocity pressure.. but not back end pressure. Another words not over kill on pipe size .but big ex turbine and ex housing mid 8s at only 16 PSI of boost in a 3500 LBS car me in it . this set up I have sweet spot is 26 PSI of boost but little to crazy for me. I drive it to shows and all around
Lancia used a super charger for low rpm and then a turbo for up top, back in the 80's. I used to think porting the head or having a asymmetric cam ground that opened the exhaust valve earlier, would improve boost response, while it did, but not down in the rpm range we were looking at. In our case below 4000rpm
This highlights exactly what I was trying to talk to somebody about when explaining the combination I'm building. My application, is actually a large heavy family car that is daily driven. But I'm putting in an LT1 with a turbo. I don't need a big cam because I'm making my high-end horsepower with the turbo. I don't want a hyper aggressive cam profile because I want it to be reliable for daily driving. I don't want to worry about my valve springs. I want the 6.2 for that low end torque around town. I want the variable valve timing and long runners intake manifold for efficiency in those low RPM areas that I'll be driving around in most of the time. And then when I get on it, all that effort to keep the low RPM torque, is just going to speed up how fast the turbo spools and I'll still make 700 plus at the rear wheels. And if I don't I'll just turn up the boost more until I run out of injector.
WITHOUT RIG GAP YOUR GONNA BUST A RING AND PISTON AT 700 WHP ! IF YOU ARE PULLING MOTOR APART TO DO RING GAP , YOU MIGHT AS WELL DO A CAMSHAFT, HEAD STUDS , MACHINE THE DECK, GOOD GASKETS !
MY COUSIN HAS A PROCHARGED 6.2 LS MAKING 710 HP AT MOTOR , ITS STOCK MOTOR, NO RING GAP, INTERCOOLED , BEEN TO PERFORMANCE SHOP 2 TIMES FOR DYNO TUNES . THE OWNER OF SHOP GAVE IT A SAFE TUNE, AND DOESN'T ADVISE ANY MORE BOOST , WITHOUT RING GAP , HEADSTUDS AND GASKETS
IM ALSO SURE HE HAD TO PUT IN BIGGER INJECTORS TO MAKE THE 700 HP,. AND THE DYNO PERFORMANCE TUNES COST ABOUT $1500. HE IS PRETTY HAPOY WITH IT , ITS IN A 6 SPEED 2012 CAMARO WITH 4.10 GEARS
@@daviddavids3468 It's getting drop in Pistons and rods. ARP head studs and the stock multi-layer steel head gasket. It is getting a cam but if you've ever wondered who the people are that buy the mild cams... It's me. It's not even going to sound cammed. Fuel lobe is larger I think 32% but I'd have to go look. I have not upgraded to the LT4 injectors but from what I've been reading it seems like the only acceptable option for the moment unless I'm willing to go dual staged injection and that brings in a lot of non-OEM parts that may make it less reliable for daily driver. I am going to of course limit the amount of variable valve timing to what the cam recommends but it still picks up down low, and I just finished blocking off all of the displacement on demand oil ports. It's getting normal lifters for reliability. The biggest slowdown from getting this running right now is the fact that people can't just seem to get parts out the door and shipped to me on time. I expected to be filing rings this weekend. Instead I'm still waiting on the rings to get here. I must say watching all of Richard's videos I would really love to be able to see how my engine stacks up to what he's measured, but without being able to bring my stuff over to his dyno it wouldn't be apples to apples anyway... I don't think I'm going to be overstressing the aftermarket rods, and I probably could get away with leaving stock rods and pistons and just gapping the rings but given that I'm pulling it all apart and that I don't want to do it twice.... Might as well swap them since it's not horribly expensive.
How about a video on how to not let the turbo unspool. And this is just the perfect crazy idea for a future video. Put a heavy flywheel on a turbo so that once it gets spooled up it keeps spinning and boosting for a long time. The extra boost developed when off the throttle can be stored in a boost tank and let back into the inlet to boost the turbo back up faster. The turbo would have to provide way more boost than the engine is intended to run at so there would always be extra boost to bleed off to keep the boost tank filled. This would be genius if a control system can manage moving air around to all the different parts and controlled accurately.
I suggest you do the calculations on the airflow needs on a boosted motor, then the storage capacity needed. It might surprise you, but a heavy flywheel on a turbo?
Also Mazda tested the quick spool valance as you called it and gained about 8% spool time reduction but 13% when actually just using a proper twin scroll setup but I realize that’s not as easy on v engines as inline motors
My brother added a quick spool valve and twin scroll turbo to his modified 2.3 SVO powered Mustang and has a noticeable improvement in spooling. Unfortunately a divided exhaust manifold isn't available to just go with that much simpler route.
I can’t wait to hit the rollers soon I did a 588 big block 10.5:1 Brodix bb2xtra heads Sonny’s tunnel ram,your 300br solid roller cam Twin billet s475 t6 1.32’s On e85 and methanol if necessary
Hey Richard, love your videos! Just picked up an 80k mile 04 donor truck with a lm7 5.3 with 706 heads. Planning to do a BTR Truck Norris cam with dual valve springs, fast lsxr intake manifold with 102mm TB, and intend to run on pump gas. Its going into my 90' rcsb pickup. I'm just curious if you think the stock 706 heads and a gt45 with those other parts would make for a good street truck combo, or if I should port the heads or replace with some aftermarket trick flow heads, or different turbo. Truck will be mostly for street fun, but will occasionally tow around 3-4k pounds of toys. With so many options, I want to get it right the first time and after watching tons of your videos, this is the setup I have noted down. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Richard, if you ran each turbo test with the dyno brake off at first would it give an idea of what RPM boost comes in on a combination? I think for a lot of street car guys they want to balance when boost comes on vs power vs back pressure and when power falls off. Thoughts?
@@richardholdener1727 you were saying in the last video you hold the dyno with the throttle open in order to get the turbo to spool. Did I misunderstand what you were saying?
Hey Richard I have a gen 6 454 that I am going to run a megasquirt Efi computer and I have a pair of hx55 turbos with big exhaust housings 26cm that I want to twin on the bbc. Should I just ring gap and a cam and run it or get a set of pistons and put a decent sized cam for it? I’m swapping out the factory Efi intake for a Holley Efi intake and what are your thoughts for the intake single or dual plane?
Excellent video Richard and lots of great comparison's there see exactly what's going to happen when you choose a certain setup for a build. I personally would rather have more power coming on down low and loose just a tad up top or even come up a lb or two to even things out because as you've just shown, it will make even MORE down low to make the same number as say, a long runner would up top. (I know, that's not exactly what you meant lol)
Do you have any videos that show what type of gains there are with a heat wrap on the manifolds? I know in theory it for sure helps, just want to see a real world test with a measurable gain
I don't know If you can show the real gain on an engine dyno. When you use proper heat shielding and heat management within an engine compartment, you see gains from not having everything around it heat soak more so than you see gains from containing the heat. The dyno would be able to show all of his parts heating up faster, but he already showed that it only takes one run to get all those parts hot enough to do better on the next run. Heat management like that is needed in the real world but hard to quantify on a dyno. As a side note, I don't recommend heat wrap on exhaust as it tends to hold water against the exhaust and accelerate oxidation (rusting out). Instead I recommend doing what the OEM does and use heat shields and reflective foils to redirect the heat away from other components, keep it closer to where you want it hot, and move airflow to make a moving air buffer between the parts that should stay cool, and your heat shielding.
@@TravisFabel I'm very aware of what heat wraps can do. I just would like to see a side by side test of unmanaged heat compared to managed. I personally ceramic coat my manifolds with a couple strategic heat shields to keep it as tight against my manifold until it can escape down towards the ground(only place it can go)... The heat wrap has its place, but not on mild steel or anything cast. I generally tell people if your going to use it don't plan on it being long term because of the rot it causes. Even stainless will start to suffer so plan on heat shields, quality turbo blankets, and some time studying the DEI catalog... and save up for a quality stainless manifold or get what you got ceramic coated for a few hundred bucks....
Hi Richard I have a 428 ford fe with a 671 blower I want to switch to turbo would you recommend two small turbos, or one larger turbo? and what size would you recommend for either?
Do you think the heat is expanding the metals creating tighter tolerances inside the turbo? Maybe this is making the turbine work more efficiently? Otherwise why would heat help?
Exhaust gas energy comes from both flow and heat expansion. These expanding gasses work to spin the turbine. If some of that heat energy is consumed giving up heat to the manifold and turbo housing, there’s less energy available to spin the turbine. This is the reason for header wrap, turbo blankets and coatings etc.
Hey Richard, what do you think about charge piping length? There are kits sold for my car (1999 volvo s70 t5) called "RiP kits" or reverse intercooler piping, and they shorten charge pipe length by about 2.5 feet. They also increase the diameter of the pipe from 2" OD to 2.5" OD. What are your thoughts on this regarding boost response/spool times? Thanks! love your content.
@@richardholdener1727 Thank you, I didn't realize you had made a video of that already. So it wouldn't really be worth spending $350-450 to shorten my charge piping if its a that small of a gain? in the video you said the differences would be more exaggerated on the street so I don't know if it would be something that I could actually notice
So with runner length in mind, I'm using the stock 5.3 truck intake in my for my turbo build, and I'm running sloppy stage 1 cam. Would there really be any benefit to going to any other intake ? To help with the lag I have.
Since you've proven all cams are turbo cams how about a test between say the truck norris and one of the summit turbo cams? Im curious to see if these cams that are spec'ed for boost really have any benefit and what it is over a non spec'ed for boost cam.
@@richardholdener1727 yes but is there really any benefit to a spec'ed "Turbo" cam over just a N/a cam? Like for example the summit stage 2 turbo cam having 0.600 lift on the intake and 0.575 on the exhaust, i would love to see how this changes the power, spool up, etc versus a cam with the same lift on both intake and exhaust. Does this show a benefit on a smaller turbo/bigger engine application where back pressure is getting over the ideal ratio and if that is the case would it show a negative on the opposite of this on a smaller engine struggling to get a bigger turbo to spool at low rpm? From what ive seen watching all your testing im thinking a regular "n/a" spec'ed cam with the same lift on both int and exh would be a benefit on a smaller engine trying to spool a oversized turbo like for example a 4.8 with the summit s475 youve been using alot lately.
So Rich did you ever test the difference between an exhaust manifold and a header in respect to boost response ? I ask because I cracked my header on a 2.3 ford and went back to a cast manifold and boost response seems to hit at a higher RPM !
I would love to see a 2.25, 2.5 and 3" crossover test. Lots of guys argue about it online and I have a feeling it makes damn near no difference. But I could be wrong. My 6.0, ss2, 317 head with a 3" crossover and t6 s480 seems to spool up fine but maybe there is room for improvement??? Or maybe the loose converter hides the lag? Could be a cool test
@richard holdener in your experience does hotside and coldside pipe diameter make that noticeable of a difference. I always hear people stressing by 2 to 2.5 inch hotside pipes for faster spool bc there's less overall pipe space to fill and move and I've read it helps keep the charge Temps hotter which we know improves spool speed.
@@richardholdener1727 essentially with a cam built more like the truck cams or say the highlight low duration torque cams when paired with the correct tube we will be in boost faster but also don't have the ability to build that max top end power that is what usually outs out the biggest hp numbers. But like you've said it's not just about max hp but rather being able to to achieve all that power under the curve which equates to being more useful because it's usable hp gains in the rpm range a street car is more likely to be spend most of its time in. So for like a single cab heavy truck (lm7 5.3)a lower duration highlift lower lsa cam paired with say a 7875 and a intake manifold with runners that are like that of of a fastlsxr. Then for strip and all-out power high duration high lsa cam with tunnel ram intake and a turbo no smaller then 80-88mm....am I on the right path?
great info, I have a bone stock L59 with only 70K miles on my 07, you recommended a 7582 spooler, and so goes the question, im building this for a strictly towing application, to get my butt over the hills in southern Oregon with my travel trailer. (used sparingly) stock exhaust on my truck is 2.75 inches, can I get away with a 3 inch exhaust (cat back as this is a remote mounted turbo ) in place of muffler due to DEQ restrictions( emissions) everything is purchased but before i install it im second guessing my 3 inch hot side and 3 inch cold side back to intake, and losing torque in the process.... great work BTW, obsessed with your vids!!! will i lose a ton of torque/ boost lag with larger exhaust is my question thanks again
@@richardholdener1727 I don't know how that would work at part throttle. That would be a very interesting video. I would like to know what that even means. I know you can beat .5. What makes what happened. Is it efficiency. How would improve that, would the camshaft change that, maybe the lobe separation angle. Very interesting.
@@richardholdener1727 still not great looking, are all of the sheetmetal intakes weak? Nothing with longer runners that would be comparable in power to the truck intake?
Turbos are heat driven. Normally the larger displacement engine makes more power and power equals more heat so that helps spool the turbo sooner. This is where the dance between raising the compression ratio and the amount of boost pressure you want to run at least when running pump fuels. Raising the compression ratio will generate an increase in horsepower ie heat will be increased as a result as well as cam change makes more horsepower ie more heat is generated and helps the turbo spool.
I have a 67 Cougar 390GT. I’ve been seriously contemplating adding a turbo to it. Its being NA built to make 400 HP with 500 ft trq. I figure a turbo would be good for an extra 75 HP. Looking for mid range to upper power range. 2500-5500 ideas?
I bought the sloppy "best cam" over the new year (before the test off). My engine will never intentionally see anything over 6k. With that in mind can I change my cam timing to increase my low speed torque/ power?
Depends on the engine. Some respond to cam timing changes better than others. But generally speaking, advancing the cam improves low-end torque (at the expense of high-end power). Advancing the cam will also reduce intake valve clearance.
Would have liked to see more on log manifold vs equal length effects on turbo, and not for your big boy motors. It may not be important to a 6.0, but for us 4 banger guys, there is a big difference in boost response between a log manifold and a properly designed equal length turbo header.
With showing boost response it would of been helpful to see graphs of boost psi vs rpm to really show how fast it actually took to spool up. I understand you could look at tq and go off that but it would of been good to see.
How do I increase boost on a 14 liter 60 series' Detroit it only pump 25 pounds On my cat 15 liter c15 it pumps 50+ pounds of boost much better power in mid range
So how about a single gt35 on a stock l59 will the back pressure be excessive? Just looking for gains in the sub 5k range with out killing cruize economy
STROKE = Low Speed Power = Spool/Boost Response - Comparing 2 different 5.7L LS configurations: 1) LS1/6 'Rebuild' (3.905" x 3.622" = 347 CID) 2) (4.8 Crank) 3.268" Stroke LS7 (4.125" x 3.268" = 349 CID) Richard, I know I have argued THIS point with you in the past (bore/stroke/tq/hp) and you have continuously shot me down and I don't know how else to phrase it, SO I will make my last attempt to say that WITH DISPLACEMTENT BEING EQUAL, a Longer Stroke moves the graph/peaks to the LEFT (lower RPM). A Larger Bore moves the graph/peaks to the RIGHT (higher RPM). There is NO denying this example, which is comparable to the example that I used previously with 6.0L combinations (3.780" x 4.00" = 363 CID/6.0L .....VS....4.00" x 3.622" = 364 CID/6.0L).
displacement makes power if you keep everything else the same (heads, cam and intake etc...)-your bore and stroke are very small things in this power and rpm level and will show almost nothing
@@richardholdener1727 So basically Chevy Engineering in the 70's and 80's must have been run by the 'Helmet & Water Wing' Squad ? I mean, why else would they cast a brand new block for the 305 5L with a smaller bore, rather than pulling out the '302' crankshaft tooling (much cheaper) that would (in your opinion) have the exact same effect on shrinking the engine using the 350/4.0" block, while maintaining a decent driving experience in 4,000 lbs Land Yachts under 5500 RPM. Something tells me that by shrinking the bore (to shrink displacement) WHILE maintaining the same stroke as the 350, that the low end performance of the 305/5L suffered less TQ loss overall (compared to a 302 setup) and didn't require that cast-everything-motor to have to spin to the moon, risking grenading, in order to get power out of it, such as with the 302. While I continue to post these cases for fun, know this.... *I WILL NOT STOP* ...LOL. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I do love your videos.
Richy Rich start tha video like Booker T from WWE. Richard is tha 5 time. 5 time 5 time five time Five Time. Stock bottom end boost champion of tha World
You blow away myths with your methodic way of testing. Always great to learn, and look how many people you keep from wasting their money on combos that really dont work well together!
I like you’re videos. Useful information with the Dyno sheets to back it up. I’ve been debating on doing turbo on my ls swapped s2000 and I think I’m sold on it now. Thanks buddy.
Thats going to be fun, Im guessing you’ve already upgraded the chassis quite a bit to handle 4x the stock power 😅
RIP traction
@@yotasavage yeah that went away whenever I did the swap lmao
@@applebitefool believe it or not all factory components except the t56 and ls. Handles well except I lost cornering. Maybe with better sway bars and after market suspension I might be able to get it somewhat better. Still the straight line performance is worth it.
@@christopherhoward3822
If you decide to go ahead with a turbo, you should consider subframe connectors and whatever bracing the pros are using as well as beefed up axles and diff.
Quick Spool Valve are magic for bottom end . On power in ¼ the distance stoplight to stop light. Made my 1st gen stock tune Cummins /160hp tune drive like the 400hp sbc350 in a 6k lb 79 Chevy k20.
my setup was set to minimum/ spring pressure open at 18psi and would hold open down to15psi boost. At 1800rpm, dip my tow and jump from 10psi to 15 instant response through the hx35/12 @6cm closed.
Twincharging for small displacement motors. Where you run a roots blower set to 7psi (technically to a PR of 1.5). Low boost minimizes parasitic loss but effectively increases displacement by 50%. The supercharger magnifies the smaller engines displacement allowing you to run a larger turbo. I was going to do this on my 2.0L Zetec Contour using a T3-S60 turbo feeding an Eaton M62 supercharger (Focus JRSC). It got totaled so the build never got completed. I still wish I could have finished it.
Thanks Richard for all of your hard work. I love the channel. Awesome content. Packed with hard data.
Gale Banks found that a twincharged setup like you are saying, the blower added no value above a certain rpm/output, but, alas, they did not engineer a system to just bypass it with the turbo boost as did Ford on their RS100 rally car.
However, with a straight-lobe, old-school Roots, it may be a different story.
This was a GREAT informative video! Thank you yet again Mr. Holdener 👍
I’m was thinking of doing a 351 ranger with stock exhaust manifolds and remote turbo in the bed and BAM you right there with this video. Your awesome
THIS THIS THIS!!! Thank you for this video!!!!!! This explains everything!!!
Twin Scroll + Diverter valve and undivided header collector for the all time spoolup champion 👑👑👑👑
With an auto where your converter flashes determines your minimum needed boost threshold. Going lower just hurts top end without improving vehicle dynamics
I usually just use a 50 jet of the smurph juice to get the turbo going good
The knowledge you have is incredible! I really appreciate your videos. I’m trying to build a turbo kit for my 5vz-fe and would love to pick your brain on it.
Quick spool valve is the only way to go. It will add an average 100hp. I have one on my compound diesel and I’m starting to spool up about 1300 rpm and my low pressure large turbo will pick up about the time my smaller high pressure turbo starts to peter out giving me a constant spoolup from 1300 to over 5k
The first Turbo vehicle I ever drove was a Saab Turbo. I thought the Turbo Lag was such a cool feeling, all of a sudden the power kicked in.
Lol. It's unsuspecting. I always had blower cars. And swore by that instant torque
I hate that when it.comes to performance you essentially have to chose if you want it down low and immediate or get it running high in thr rev range always higher then 7k lol. I have grown to live turbo.bc they can hook better and be manipulated through tuning and with holley ecus you can even control your boost ramp through real time tuning or to run boost by rpm, boost per mph, so one n so forth. It's more logical for getting traction bc the boost doesn't usually roll In until aftrt you've left the line which.helps to not immediately blow the tire off. That is along as your not popping and banging spitting out fire like a damn mythical dragon bouncing off the rev limiter with the 2 step lol
@@robertbailey3057 Correction: you can have all-RPM-torque if you want to spend the time and money to have multiple turbos controlled in such a way as to keep those cylinders full all the way to idle RPM levels.
But, are you willing to do what is necessary to find that? Mazda did in some measure with their sequential-turbo rotary RX7, but, alas, most do not have the inclination to do that. For ultimate broad-spectrum torque, you can use a large Roots blower, some turbos, a centrifugal blower, even Garrett's electric turbo.
However, low compression at low RPM will be needed to stave off detonation.
Great video, Richard. I think another test I’d like to see added to this is the effect of a typical ‘full exhaust’ (after the downpipe) like one would put on a street car and it’s effect on spool time and overall hp, maybe at a couple of different power levels. Thanks.
CHECK OUT THE TURBO EXHAUST TEST VIDEO
@@richardholdener1727 Will you ever run out of things to test ?? XD
@@richardholdener1727 @ The Horror he still has to test X pipe vs. Y pipe, vs. H pipe, and also a fully worked out Gen II LT1 lol..
@@BoHorror he won't, he still has most of the newer mod motors, the entire ecoboost family, some Mercedes motors, several dodge motors, the Honda J series, tons of Toyota motors, and more.
@@BoHorror if you read car mags the last 25 years, you'd see most of these tests/data is rehashed from them. Still very relevant, but the info has been out there, documented in writing for a while now.
Basically increase the base engine power and size the turbo properly for the power goals.
A 125 spool shot of N2O on my T-type with a 66mm turbo plus methanol made that car go from wild to absolutely bananas. The bottle lasted forever too.
That would be wild to tune. You'd have to pull timing off the hit for n20 but then increase fuel output increasing with rpm to feed all that air starting to rapidly be crammed down its throat bc at this rpm range boost is rolling in and then assuming your meth kit only engages at wot you'd have to also specifically tune the top end with the neccesary precautions. Basically each stage...low mid and high rpm range works have a highly custom tune that is drastically different from the other two. I have a question I have tossed around the idea of switching to e85 with meth injection and running no intercooler. What's your experience with something like that. What kind of #s or times have you saw with your set up?
Man, I know how it goes having to sell my streetcar bc life happens and those nonneccessities are the first to go when shit hits the fan. I love those old t types. I'm sure even as a roller.it still.fetched a decent buck. Those are respectable numbers. Can't compare apples to oranges. Nowadays you got guys on the street running in the 3s in the 8th mile and cars coming race ready off the showroom.floor and then these unexperienced idiots with money are driving around in 10 second dailys thinking their bought not built cars are badass. If rather take that pile of $ they dropped and build my ultimate.dream car. When I was young in the 90s we were in a hp drought and now cars.came out that we're over 300hp. Then they even cameout with v6 versions of mustangs and camaros. Sad days
The.epa.robbed the 80s and 90s of anything resembling hp. The hottest car back then was a 5.0 foxbody which still only came with 225 hp. There was the turbo t types and grand nationals that were way ahead of their.time with using turbos and a 6cylinder not typical 8!
Are you suggesting there is no replacement for displacement?
A lot of the low end gain in spool is not from heat into the exhaust but the drag being reduced from warm oil on the turbo turbine shaft. Heat energy does not help spin the shaft but reducing the exhaust temperature does lead to a smaller volume of gas going through the turbine. Heat the hot side of a turbo with a torch till it glows and you will see it still sits at 0rpm with all the heat energy it can handle
THE OIL TEMP IS THE SAME IN BOTH RUNS
The Heat Energy Really Surprised Me. My Jeep Would Never Spool Up More Then 3 PSI At The Drag Strip Brake Boosting. But Anywhere Else It Would Easily Spool Up 8-10 And Launch Bad Out Of Hell Being AWD. I Should Have Let It Get Hot In The Staging Lanes. I Always Thought It Was DA For The Track But I Checked DA Where I Normally Test Launches At Home And It Was The Same. My Jeep Just Wants People To Think It Can't Launch At The Drag Strip So It Surprises You On The Street hahah
wow the gt45 looks great for a trailer puller. meaning if turbo is the goal ofc
these short videos are what brought me to subscribe straight into it. those long ones though cant do it.
my set up comes on like a hart attack .and I have a LSX 430 cube motor with a gt 55 - 94 and a lot of it is velocity pressure.. but not back end pressure. Another words not over kill on pipe size .but big ex turbine and ex housing mid 8s at only 16 PSI of boost in a 3500 LBS car me in it . this set up I have sweet spot is 26 PSI of boost but little to crazy for me. I drive it to shows and all around
Lancia used a super charger for low rpm and then a turbo for up top, back in the 80's.
I used to think porting the head or having a asymmetric cam ground that opened the exhaust valve earlier, would improve boost response, while it did, but not down in the rpm range we were looking at. In our case below 4000rpm
The 1.4 VW Jetta 2014 also has this super and turbo combination
same effect as sequential turbo
This highlights exactly what I was trying to talk to somebody about when explaining the combination I'm building.
My application, is actually a large heavy family car that is daily driven. But I'm putting in an LT1 with a turbo. I don't need a big cam because I'm making my high-end horsepower with the turbo. I don't want a hyper aggressive cam profile because I want it to be reliable for daily driving. I don't want to worry about my valve springs. I want the 6.2 for that low end torque around town. I want the variable valve timing and long runners intake manifold for efficiency in those low RPM areas that I'll be driving around in most of the time.
And then when I get on it, all that effort to keep the low RPM torque, is just going to speed up how fast the turbo spools and I'll still make 700 plus at the rear wheels. And if I don't I'll just turn up the boost more until I run out of injector.
WITHOUT RIG GAP YOUR GONNA BUST A RING AND PISTON AT 700 WHP ! IF YOU ARE PULLING MOTOR APART TO DO RING GAP , YOU MIGHT AS WELL DO A CAMSHAFT, HEAD STUDS , MACHINE THE DECK, GOOD GASKETS !
MY COUSIN HAS A PROCHARGED 6.2 LS MAKING 710 HP AT MOTOR , ITS STOCK MOTOR, NO RING GAP, INTERCOOLED , BEEN TO PERFORMANCE SHOP 2 TIMES FOR DYNO TUNES . THE OWNER OF SHOP GAVE IT A SAFE TUNE, AND DOESN'T ADVISE ANY MORE BOOST , WITHOUT RING GAP , HEADSTUDS AND GASKETS
IM ALSO SURE HE HAD TO PUT IN BIGGER INJECTORS TO MAKE THE 700 HP,. AND THE DYNO PERFORMANCE TUNES COST ABOUT $1500. HE IS PRETTY HAPOY WITH IT , ITS IN A 6 SPEED 2012 CAMARO WITH 4.10 GEARS
less talk, more doing.
@@daviddavids3468 It's getting drop in Pistons and rods. ARP head studs and the stock multi-layer steel head gasket.
It is getting a cam but if you've ever wondered who the people are that buy the mild cams... It's me. It's not even going to sound cammed. Fuel lobe is larger I think 32% but I'd have to go look. I have not upgraded to the LT4 injectors but from what I've been reading it seems like the only acceptable option for the moment unless I'm willing to go dual staged injection and that brings in a lot of non-OEM parts that may make it less reliable for daily driver. I am going to of course limit the amount of variable valve timing to what the cam recommends but it still picks up down low, and I just finished blocking off all of the displacement on demand oil ports. It's getting normal lifters for reliability.
The biggest slowdown from getting this running right now is the fact that people can't just seem to get parts out the door and shipped to me on time.
I expected to be filing rings this weekend. Instead I'm still waiting on the rings to get here.
I must say watching all of Richard's videos I would really love to be able to see how my engine stacks up to what he's measured, but without being able to bring my stuff over to his dyno it wouldn't be apples to apples anyway...
I don't think I'm going to be overstressing the aftermarket rods, and I probably could get away with leaving stock rods and pistons and just gapping the rings but given that I'm pulling it all apart and that I don't want to do it twice.... Might as well swap them since it's not horribly expensive.
Good information
How about a video on how to not let the turbo unspool. And this is just the perfect crazy idea for a future video. Put a heavy flywheel on a turbo so that once it gets spooled up it keeps spinning and boosting for a long time. The extra boost developed when off the throttle can be stored in a boost tank and let back into the inlet to boost the turbo back up faster. The turbo would have to provide way more boost than the engine is intended to run at so there would always be extra boost to bleed off to keep the boost tank filled. This would be genius if a control system can manage moving air around to all the different parts and controlled accurately.
I suggest you do the calculations on the airflow needs on a boosted motor, then the storage capacity needed. It might surprise you, but a heavy flywheel on a turbo?
Compression ratio has a very important role as well.
Good topic, I need to learn more and how to use my 7875 with holley hp
I think Garrett and Borg are working on electrically aided turbos to eliminate boost lag. Can't wait for that 😁
Also Mazda tested the quick spool valance as you called it and gained about 8% spool time reduction but 13% when actually just using a proper twin scroll setup but I realize that’s not as easy on v engines as inline motors
I would love to see this tested on a V8!
My brother added a quick spool valve and twin scroll turbo to his modified 2.3 SVO powered Mustang and has a noticeable improvement in spooling. Unfortunately a divided exhaust manifold isn't available to just go with that much simpler route.
I usually use my leaf blower to get things spooling up
Thanks for all the informative videos!
Seems advancing the cam should be beneficial as well?
sometimes
I can’t wait to hit the rollers soon
I did a 588 big block 10.5:1 Brodix bb2xtra heads
Sonny’s tunnel ram,your 300br solid roller cam
Twin billet s475 t6 1.32’s
On e85 and methanol if necessary
THAT SHOULD DO WELL
A tunnel ram, really? I am guessing you are using blow-through carbs on top of the tunnel ram?
@@exploranator no, i modified the top of the plenum and added a holley hi ram lid to it. So 102mm single entry
Thank you Richard for the awesome content!!!
Hahaha the golden retrievers reaction to you saying "5 things" what a good boy!
Can you test any benefits to using turbo heat wraps?
Would like to see testing with wraps, but I know some popular turbo rebuilders don't recommend them, maybe results in cracked housings.
Surprised compression ratio wasnt included
Hey Richard, love your videos! Just picked up an 80k mile 04 donor truck with a lm7 5.3 with 706 heads. Planning to do a BTR Truck Norris cam with dual valve springs, fast lsxr intake manifold with 102mm TB, and intend to run on pump gas. Its going into my 90' rcsb pickup. I'm just curious if you think the stock 706 heads and a gt45 with those other parts would make for a good street truck combo, or if I should port the heads or replace with some aftermarket trick flow heads, or different turbo. Truck will be mostly for street fun, but will occasionally tow around 3-4k pounds of toys. With so many options, I want to get it right the first time and after watching tons of your videos, this is the setup I have noted down. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have a Truck Norris cam for sale and watch the live feed tonite (right now). I'm talking about a Gt45 turbo ls with that cam
Hey Richard, if you ran each turbo test with the dyno brake off at first would it give an idea of what RPM boost comes in on a combination? I think for a lot of street car guys they want to balance when boost comes on vs power vs back pressure and when power falls off. Thoughts?
the dyno brake off?
@@richardholdener1727 you were saying in the last video you hold the dyno with the throttle open in order to get the turbo to spool. Did I misunderstand what you were saying?
Richard , have you tested the ebay t4 7875 turbo ? And do you know if it will make 900hp on 5.3 ls 12:50
the VSR 7875 Gen 2 will make more than 900 hp
I hope some sponsors you on a tek intercooler and oil less turbo set up
I have a Tick intercooler
So displacement have nothing to do with spool up?
The volume of exhaust gases?
the vid says displacement (actually torque production) does have something to do with spool up
Hey Richard I have a gen 6 454 that I am going to run a megasquirt Efi computer and I have a pair of hx55 turbos with big exhaust housings 26cm that I want to twin on the bbc. Should I just ring gap and a cam and run it or get a set of pistons and put a decent sized cam for it? I’m swapping out the factory Efi intake for a Holley Efi intake and what are your thoughts for the intake single or dual plane?
Excellent video Richard and lots of great comparison's there see exactly what's going to happen when you choose a certain setup for a build. I personally would rather have more power coming on down low and loose just a tad up top or even come up a lb or two to even things out because as you've just shown, it will make even MORE down low to make the same number as say, a long runner would up top. (I know, that's not exactly what you meant lol)
“Lose”
@@user-pp2tl9dz1w tganks
Do you have any videos that show what type of gains there are with a heat wrap on the manifolds? I know in theory it for sure helps, just want to see a real world test with a measurable gain
I don't know If you can show the real gain on an engine dyno. When you use proper heat shielding and heat management within an engine compartment, you see gains from not having everything around it heat soak more so than you see gains from containing the heat.
The dyno would be able to show all of his parts heating up faster, but he already showed that it only takes one run to get all those parts hot enough to do better on the next run.
Heat management like that is needed in the real world but hard to quantify on a dyno. As a side note, I don't recommend heat wrap on exhaust as it tends to hold water against the exhaust and accelerate oxidation (rusting out). Instead I recommend doing what the OEM does and use heat shields and reflective foils to redirect the heat away from other components, keep it closer to where you want it hot, and move airflow to make a moving air buffer between the parts that should stay cool, and your heat shielding.
@@TravisFabel I'm very aware of what heat wraps can do. I just would like to see a side by side test of unmanaged heat compared to managed. I personally ceramic coat my manifolds with a couple strategic heat shields to keep it as tight against my manifold until it can escape down towards the ground(only place it can go)... The heat wrap has its place, but not on mild steel or anything cast. I generally tell people if your going to use it don't plan on it being long term because of the rot it causes. Even stainless will start to suffer so plan on heat shields, quality turbo blankets, and some time studying the DEI catalog... and save up for a quality stainless manifold or get what you got ceramic coated for a few hundred bucks....
Should turbo use high profile cam example 304?
whatever the cam does na-it does under boost
@@richardholdener1727 so any can cam degree can use rite
Hi Richard I have a 428 ford fe with a 671 blower I want to switch to turbo would you recommend two small turbos, or one larger turbo? and what size would you recommend for either?
twins do the same as a single when sized for the power you want-pick a turbo or turbos for the desired combination of response and power level
What is your preference for a cam on a 4.3L 262?
If you add pressure to the top of the gate it should help spool up right?
only when you get near gate activation-otherwise no
A/r for the engine and propose of vehicle
Does all this apply to 4 cylinder import engines too? Say, a K24.
yes-same for any motor
Richard would love to see you do a Honda j35 .
yes
Do you think the heat is expanding the metals creating tighter tolerances inside the turbo? Maybe this is making the turbine work more efficiently? Otherwise why would heat help?
Exhaust gas energy comes from both flow and heat expansion. These expanding gasses work to spin the turbine. If some of that heat energy is consumed giving up heat to the manifold and turbo housing, there’s less energy available to spin the turbine. This is the reason for header wrap, turbo blankets and coatings etc.
Hey Richard, what do you think about charge piping length? There are kits sold for my car (1999 volvo s70 t5) called "RiP kits" or reverse intercooler piping, and they shorten charge pipe length by about 2.5 feet. They also increase the diameter of the pipe from 2" OD to 2.5" OD. What are your thoughts on this regarding boost response/spool times? Thanks! love your content.
PLEASE SEE THE TEST RUN ON THE REMOTE TURBOS AND CHARGE PIPE TEST
@@richardholdener1727 Thank you, I didn't realize you had made a video of that already. So it wouldn't really be worth spending $350-450 to shorten my charge piping if its a that small of a gain? in the video you said the differences would be more exaggerated on the street so I don't know if it would be something that I could actually notice
VGT 😁. vacuum or mechanical control, you could probably accomplish that on a Dyno..
How much does compression affect boost response
if it adds low speed torque-it improves response rate
Would love to see a direct twin scroll comparison with maybe some different manifold options.
Quick spool valve would also be cool to see!!
Or a fresh air valve.
So with runner length in mind, I'm using the stock 5.3 truck intake in my for my turbo build, and I'm running sloppy stage 1 cam. Would there really be any benefit to going to any other intake ? To help with the lag I have.
keep what you have
Did you happen to record boost curves with the cam test. It almost looks like the sloppy cam came up on boost first but more gradually.
the TN cam has more lows-speed torque and therefore more low speed boost response
Since you've proven all cams are turbo cams how about a test between say the truck norris and one of the summit turbo cams? Im curious to see if these cams that are spec'ed for boost really have any benefit and what it is over a non spec'ed for boost cam.
think big cam, small cam-whatever the cam does NA-it will do under boost
@@richardholdener1727 yes but is there really any benefit to a spec'ed "Turbo" cam over just a N/a cam? Like for example the summit stage 2 turbo cam having 0.600 lift on the intake and 0.575 on the exhaust, i would love to see how this changes the power, spool up, etc versus a cam with the same lift on both intake and exhaust. Does this show a benefit on a smaller turbo/bigger engine application where back pressure is getting over the ideal ratio and if that is the case would it show a negative on the opposite of this on a smaller engine struggling to get a bigger turbo to spool at low rpm?
From what ive seen watching all your testing im thinking a regular "n/a" spec'ed cam with the same lift on both int and exh would be a benefit on a smaller engine trying to spool a oversized turbo like for example a 4.8 with the summit s475 youve been using alot lately.
5.3L (LM7) running twin BW257-sxe turbos 1.22AR. Tsp bald eagle turbo cam and the oem car Intake manifold... thoughts?
what is you desired power level and the rest of the combo and usage....thoughts?
@@richardholdener1727 Some of these guys seem to be bots.
You have any videos on the 5.7?
YES-THEY AR UP
So Rich did you ever test the difference between an exhaust manifold and a header in respect to boost response ? I ask because I cracked my header on a 2.3 ford and went back to a cast manifold and boost response seems to hit at a higher RPM !
that is hard to test on the engine dyno unless there is a dramatic difference
I would love to see a 2.25, 2.5 and 3" crossover test. Lots of guys argue about it online and I have a feeling it makes damn near no difference. But I could be wrong. My 6.0, ss2, 317 head with a 3" crossover and t6 s480 seems to spool up fine but maybe there is room for improvement???
Or maybe the loose converter hides the lag? Could be a cool test
IT WOULD LIKELY BE MINIMAL CHANGE
@richard holdener in your experience does hotside and coldside pipe diameter make that noticeable of a difference. I always hear people stressing by 2 to 2.5 inch hotside pipes for faster spool bc there's less overall pipe space to fill and move and I've read it helps keep the charge Temps hotter which we know improves spool speed.
@@richardholdener1727 essentially with a cam built more like the truck cams or say the highlight low duration torque cams when paired with the correct tube we will be in boost faster but also don't have the ability to build that max top end power that is what usually outs out the biggest hp numbers. But like you've said it's not just about max hp but rather being able to to achieve all that power under the curve which equates to being more useful because it's usable hp gains in the rpm range a street car is more likely to be spend most of its time in. So for like a single cab heavy truck (lm7 5.3)a lower duration highlift lower lsa cam paired with say a 7875 and a intake manifold with runners that are like that of of a fastlsxr. Then for strip and all-out power high duration high lsa cam with tunnel ram intake and a turbo no smaller then 80-88mm....am I on the right path?
great info, I have a bone stock L59 with only 70K miles on my 07, you recommended a 7582 spooler, and so goes the question, im building this for a strictly towing application, to get my butt over the hills in southern Oregon with my travel trailer. (used sparingly) stock exhaust on my truck is 2.75 inches, can I get away with a 3 inch exhaust (cat back as this is a remote mounted turbo ) in place of muffler due to DEQ restrictions( emissions) everything is purchased but before i install it im second guessing my 3 inch hot side and 3 inch cold side back to intake, and losing torque in the process.... great work BTW, obsessed with your vids!!! will i lose a ton of torque/ boost lag with larger exhaust is my question thanks again
what is an l59?
@@richardholdener1727 I guess I'm not the only one that had no idea what an l59 is... Apparently it's the flex fuel version of the LM7.. 5.3L Gen 3.
I made a comment replying to you earlier, did it get deleted or was it just deleted immediately?
Flex fuel 5.3, 07 classic silverado. Has larger injectors
Hey Richard what happens when you go from a short runner intake to a long and add more plenum volume?
THE PLENUM VOLUME CHANGES VERY LITTLE-THE RUNNER LENGTH CHANGES THINGS A LOT
@@richardholdener1727 what about in a carburated application? Or is it the same?
The impact is to have less money.
I wonder about the brake specific fuel consumption of the difference camshafts. Won't you teach us about that. Nobody addresses that issue.
at part throttle? or at wot?
@@richardholdener1727 I don't know how that would work at part throttle. That would be a very interesting video. I would like to know what that even means. I know you can beat .5. What makes what happened. Is it efficiency. How would improve that, would the camshaft change that, maybe the lobe separation angle. Very interesting.
Nice vid. Have you tried using the tuner nerd knock monitor?
Richard sounding like Booker T. Im the five time five time five time five time five time. Heavy weight champion of the dyno cell
Can you run a QSV on a 5 cylinders
yes
Is there any decent looking manifold that is comparable to the stock truck intake? Truck intake is just so ugly.
Fast
@@richardholdener1727 still not great looking, are all of the sheetmetal intakes weak? Nothing with longer runners that would be comparable in power to the truck intake?
Does compression ratio increase boost response?
yes-because it adds low speed torque (actually torque at all engine speeds)
Turbo blanket vs no turbo blanket test?
How much does compression alone change boost response?
how much does it change the low-speed torque?
Turbos are heat driven. Normally the larger displacement engine makes more power and power equals more heat so that helps spool the turbo sooner. This is where the dance between raising the compression ratio and the amount of boost pressure you want to run at least when running pump fuels. Raising the compression ratio will generate an increase in horsepower ie heat will be increased as a result as well as cam change makes more horsepower ie more heat is generated and helps the turbo spool.
displacement and torque add way more than compression
Higher compression reduces the exhaust heat.
Turbos are massflow driven.
I have a 67 Cougar 390GT. I’ve been seriously contemplating adding a turbo to it. Its being NA built to make 400 HP with 500 ft trq. I figure a turbo would be good for an extra 75 HP. Looking for mid range to upper power range. 2500-5500 ideas?
a turbo will like 200 hp at 7-8 psi. look at a GT45
Looking for some feedback on an ls swap setup I am running... any way I could email in some info somehow for feedback?
killerbe16@aol.com
I bought the sloppy "best cam" over the new year (before the test off). My engine will never intentionally see anything over 6k. With that in mind can I change my cam timing to increase my low speed torque/ power?
Yes but with top end sacrifice
Depends on the engine. Some respond to cam timing changes better than others. But generally speaking, advancing the cam improves low-end torque (at the expense of high-end power). Advancing the cam will also reduce intake valve clearance.
Would have liked to see more on log manifold vs equal length effects on turbo, and not for your big boy motors. It may not be important to a 6.0, but for us 4 banger guys, there is a big difference in boost response between a log manifold and a properly designed equal length turbo header.
5 thinks awesome 👌
With showing boost response it would of been helpful to see graphs of boost psi vs rpm to really show how fast it actually took to spool up. I understand you could look at tq and go off that but it would of been good to see.
boost response on an engine dyno is not terribly accurate
How do I increase boost on a 14 liter 60 series' Detroit it only pump 25 pounds
On my cat 15 liter c15 it pumps 50+ pounds of boost much better power in mid range
MORE FUEL AND BIGGER TURBO
So how about a single gt35 on a stock l59 will the back pressure be excessive? Just looking for gains in the sub 5k range with out killing cruize economy
back pressure will be high
One more test I’d like to see is 2 small turbo’s ( one on each side) on a V8 or V12
we have run twins many times
Would retarding ignition timing during load in raise exhaust temps and improve boost response?
ask yourself the opposite question-if retarding the timing lost power, would it hurt response?
Rally teams use that to keep the turbo spooled at the lower-load times. It is wasteful of fuel, not too good for exhaust valves, but it works.
compression ratio?
lol, dammit man! How long did it take you to find all those 5THINGS vid snippets? Love the advice and very much appreciate the help on my junk. \m/
I would think compression would help
Awesome 👌
STROKE = Low Speed Power = Spool/Boost Response - Comparing 2 different 5.7L LS configurations:
1) LS1/6 'Rebuild' (3.905" x 3.622" = 347 CID)
2) (4.8 Crank) 3.268" Stroke LS7 (4.125" x 3.268" = 349 CID)
Richard, I know I have argued THIS point with you in the past (bore/stroke/tq/hp) and you have continuously shot me down and I don't know how else to phrase it, SO I will make my last attempt to say that WITH DISPLACEMTENT BEING EQUAL, a Longer Stroke moves the graph/peaks to the LEFT (lower RPM). A Larger Bore moves the graph/peaks to the RIGHT (higher RPM). There is NO denying this example, which is comparable to the example that I used previously with 6.0L combinations (3.780" x 4.00" = 363 CID/6.0L .....VS....4.00" x 3.622" = 364 CID/6.0L).
displacement makes power if you keep everything else the same (heads, cam and intake etc...)-your bore and stroke are very small things in this power and rpm level and will show almost nothing
@@richardholdener1727 So basically Chevy Engineering in the 70's and 80's must have been run by the 'Helmet & Water Wing' Squad ? I mean, why else would they cast a brand new block for the 305 5L with a smaller bore, rather than pulling out the '302' crankshaft tooling (much cheaper) that would (in your opinion) have the exact same effect on shrinking the engine using the 350/4.0" block, while maintaining a decent driving experience in 4,000 lbs Land Yachts under 5500 RPM. Something tells me that by shrinking the bore (to shrink displacement) WHILE maintaining the same stroke as the 350, that the low end performance of the 305/5L suffered less TQ loss overall (compared to a 302 setup) and didn't require that cast-everything-motor to have to spin to the moon, risking grenading, in order to get power out of it, such as with the 302. While I continue to post these cases for fun, know this.... *I WILL NOT STOP* ...LOL. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I do love your videos.
Facebook meme-ologists: You gotta put HEET in y0 mota!
Richard: well, actually, YEAH
You know the 5 time, 5 time, 5 time, 5 time, 5 time, former WCW champion King Booker T would be proud of this video opening. o7
Variable le gth intakes
what about Chuck Norris cam?
Truck Norris works well
Richard said "five things" six times. That's gonna mess with the OCD people. 😛
I was hoping he was going to say five things the last time and hold up six fingers or set up some other joke like that.
LOL
Nitrous is number six, and there were more at the end. (OCD would count them all but I have had therapy.)
You guys get he’s got 5 THINGS about spool info
How many things ????
Richy Rich start tha video like Booker T from WWE. Richard is tha 5 time. 5 time 5 time five time Five Time. Stock bottom end boost champion of tha World
how about BALL BEARING TURBO
maybe
@@richardholdener1727 I'M WONDERING ABOUT SELF CONTAINED TURBO CHARGERS FOR A REAR MOUNT SYSTEM, IS THEIR ANY GOOD , RELIABLE TURBOS LIKE THIS ?