You have the best style of tutorial video I have ever seen. Clear audio with concise instructions including socket sizes, clear video of what we actually need to see, no skipped steps, and time lapse when appropriate with a real time clock in the corner. This is a masterclass in how to make a video of this type. Bravo my man!!!
Awesome video. Worked like a charm. The brake lines are difficult to get threaded correctly and easily cross threaded, which I did, bummer. I'm still way ahead of the game $150 for a used actuator and about 4 hours to do the job. Toyota wanted $2,300 to do the job on my 2010 with 225,000 miles.
Great video! I have been looking for a video like this for a week. I found 10+ videos for gen 2 but none for gen 3. This is a very common issue. This video would have gotten 4x the views if you would have named it Gen 3 Prius brake actuator ABS replacement, which is what everyone is googling.
Thank you, means a lot. I added it to the hashtags and if you look it up on UA-cam now it shows up if you look up 3rd gen Prius actuator. Thanks for the insight!
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 FOR FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from government website. You can get reimbursement if you fixed it before. Just bring the receipt and talk to Dealer Rep.
@@paulwall142 yes, 2010 are screwed with all problems as first model. Only 2011-newer. If I have 2010, I will sell it as soon as possible. It has too many problems from oil consumption, head gasket leak, and all kind of problems typical 1st year, 1st technology (Toyota first time use 1.8L in hybrid). 2016 model has much less problem although it is first year but not first time of 1.8L application in hybrid.
@@rondhole have a 2010 with only 76k. Brakes are my biggest problem. The dealer wasn't servicing the slide pins so I'm on my 3rd set of pads and rotors. Last year i think the line corroded so have new brake lines. Now i have my break abs and traction lights on because of a c0210 right rear speed sensor.
Great video. It took me 8 hours to carefully do this job along with spark plugs and some brake pads. It's back on the road. Thank you! Side note, didn't use a TechStream. I bled it fairly normally but with the wire diagnostic mode trick to reset lights. We'll see how it goes.
thank you so much this helped me with a 2010 prius with 220k miles, if using the techstream software make sure to select reset memory first or the bleeding process will fail that drove me nuts
nice video now I want to do one lol, good little tip so brake fluid don't shoot everywhere use some vent hose and water bottle and can have one hooked up to each caliper.
Thanks so much for this video. Great details, very helpful! But I'm a bit shocked about how casual you are with brake fluid, squirting it out as if it were water, it is a solvent and just getting it in your hands and touching painted surface can leave smudges (guess how I know). I am not sure if the scan tool will do the relearn, but it does do the brake bleed... what does the relearn do, and is it required?
I missed the zero down step, while replacing the abs module. Now I’m having problems with bleeding and not learning linear valve offset. Tech stream is not communicating and failing. Any ideas on how I can do this
You’re welcome. Yeah the vinyl tube and bottle was cutting it. Lol we have a pressure washer at the shop so along with brake clean and washing after clean up was quick.
I was getting the Autel MS906TS scanner, but noticed something. The ABS module needs to be programmed from old unit data. Did not see you cover this in the video - Any reason why? With that in mind Autel said to use MS909, MS919 - Do you know if these are any good (eg will handle re-calibration, bleeding okay). 2010 Prius - regular
Hello there Toolguywy👋! I wasn’t aware of the zero down feature until I saw this video and did the replacement with new parts without doing zero down. Is this why I’m having trouble doing the bleed?
Could not get stroke simulator to bleed, could not get scan tool to perform any of the functions you did. Newest topdon scanner/programmer. I’m lost 🤷♂️
2010 Prius here; Just started getting the christmas brake lights with C1391 code. 230k miles so out of the extended warranty for this issues. Going to try changing out the Brake pump booster (pn# 47070-47050). Any tips? Thanks for the video!
Tips...hmm... My first tip would take it to a shop and get a proper diagnosis. I usually dont recommend throwing parts at a car especially with a pretty expensive part. If the shop does condemn it and they are reputable I would suggest definitely thinking about it first before doing it and jumping in. If they diagnose wrong and you do it yourself it will be on you. So you really need to trust their diagnosis. If you do do it, take your time be patient. My first abs actuator was a pain. Make sure you have a proper scanner available and someone there who knows how to use a scanner. If you need any help just comment again ill try answer daily.
I have c1252 c1253 c1256 any advice if it could be electrical problem beside the buster or best bet os to change the all assembly? Just will like to have your opinion no advise
I think the actuator/booster/master cylinder unit is critical, where if it fails, the car will have no brakes. Therefore, I have to get this new (not junk yard) . The accumulator/ABS pump I can get from junk yard. If it fails - no issue. Can someone please confirm.
You get it used, you can possibly swap over abs module. Life expectancy less than brand new. If you get it new you’re going to have to have it programmed at Toyota which is big bucks. Life expectancy greater.
@@DI_Wy That is fine, but if I get is used, I am worried about faulty unit. Is this component such that brakes will not work, if there is a faulty unit or they will still function, but not optimal.
@@DI_Wy Is Re-calibrate linear solenoid valve different than ABS module swap? So, if I re-calibrate linear solenoid valve, is an ABS module swap required?
@@DI_Wynvm I confused you with the question lol. Thanks for the video, I replaced the actuator but bled the system without a scanning tool, now the dash lights came again. What tools i need to bleed the system?
@@oc9215 most likely due to the fact you didn’t use a scan tool. The scan tool pretty much activates the abs and bleeds the air out of the module/booster. It makes sure there’s no air in the accumulator & module. If air is detected all lights will come back on. Most likely due to “accumulator pressure low.”
Hey I have a question I own a 2012 Prius V and the abs brake traction control light came on. The error code was C1391 - Abnormal Leak Of Accumulator Pressure . I replaced the accumulator with a used one from the savage yard and I'm still getting the same error code. By any chance would you know what else it can be?
sorry my computer was down for a bit but im back now. I actually replaced my car with a used actuator once. I installed it bled using scanner and still same code and could not do full relearn. Decided to go with brand new one and it worked. My scanner was able to fully complete the abs bleed and relearn everything. Best bet for abs actuators is to get it new.
@@DI_Wy Thank you. Well in my case after installing the used actuator the code cleared and the car was running fine for the first 100miles then the abs/traction/brake light came on then cleared on its own for a few days and now it's back on again. I'm just gonna get a new one at the dealer. What was the cost for the new actuator ? Thanks for your help.
@@Alex-rd8fq Keep in mind that what causes the C1391 internal leak is the brake booster assembly, the same on that is being replaced in the video. But before doing anything else make sure that your Prius is under warranty.
Ive never had to "reprogram" the new brake actuator besides air bleeding, all the relearns are covered in the air bleeding procedure. You are going to have to bleed it properly with a scanner. If you don't use a scanner to command the actuator it wont fully bleed the air out of the system and if there is air in the brake actuator it will a throw a code for low pressure and you will still have an abs and trac light. The bleeding procedure itself should relearn/reprogram it. At the end of the procedure it should automatically relearn all the yaw rate and linear valve offset. Some scanners might be different, but through the snapon solus you can try do the "test mode" in functional tests which should run and relearn three things. When its relearning make sure that the trac and abs light blink rapidly, if it doesn't maybe theres still air in the system or something else is wrong besides the actuator. I hope that helps.
@@DI_Wy This is exactly what I did, replace 2010 prius actuator and pump and now I have C1246 code..... I need a scanner now to redo the bleeding procedure.
TBH I only really have experience with the Autel, Snapon and Autoland Iscan3. The Iscan3 does a lot but is sometimes confusing. I do like the snapon however my favorite was the Autel MS908. It was easy to use, did most of the things that the snapon did and in a lot of cases it did more such as adaptations, relearns and coding. It really depends which scanners youre comparing.
Hi i have a prius in my workshop.it has no active faults on the scanner.problem im having is the brakes are intermitantly holding on.just say im driving along come to a set off trafic lights.press the brake now when i go to pull off i feel all brakes are locked until i repress the brakes slightly to realese.i had the diagnostic connected and what i noticed is the SRC and SMC soleniods wasnt realesing.sometimes just one would realese somes times none.very intermitant.any idea what could cause this.also where are these linear soleniods located in the abs module or the acumulator module.would really appriciate your help.thanks.ive done linear ofsets.has no codes.
I may say the xtools d7 or the xtools am30m however I’m not 100% sure if it is able to do the relearns. It is a bidirectional scanner which means it can do relearns and commands however I’m not sure if it can do it. You should do some research first however it is the best bang for your buck for a bidirectional scanner. If not an autel ms906 should do fine. You can buy it new or used however if you buy it used make sure that the previous owner can transfer the registration to you before buying. If not you will not be able to update it.
Do you need to have a scanner to do this? Or can you get away with doing the bleeding process manually like with a normal car while putting the car in invalid mode? I've seen other videos do it manually but I'm not sure if it can apply to this process.
@@TylerTheMoron to be honest I'm not to sure, never used tech stream before. However I'm guessing it can? Seems like tech stream is recommended for most relearned adaptations etc by pro demand but then again I'm not sure. That's only a guess.
@@DI_Wy I'll be looking into it, thanks for the reply. I don't have any experience using diagnostic tools for car repairs, but it looks like I'll be having to do this repair soon one way or another. Your content will definitely be a huge help for that!
You increased the video speed that's why i couldn’t get scanner process when you air bleeding the brake oil & also didn’t got the calibration process 😞😔
no its not, it lowers the pressure within the actuator. Not to sure what the dangers are if you dont do it. It says on prodemand to do so and I was taught to do that as well.
I have a Prius 30, 2011. I changed the booster because I started to hum often. After the error 1345 and 1368 came out. The brakes are bad what to do? where to look?
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from the government website.
I just bought a brand new actuator and pump assembly and hired a mechanic to replace my bad ones. I have a 2010 Prius with 161k miles, so it is not covered by Toyota. The mechanic replaced the bad actuator and bled the brakes manually. Now I have three new error codes C1203, C1345, C1451. The mechanic thinks that I need to take it to the dealer to "reprogram the actuator". Does this sound right?
Depends what scanner he’s using. I’ve run into that problem before. If he’s using he snapon did he try running it through “test mode” it relearned everything as well. If not sometimes the actuator will throw codes if there’s still air in the lines.
I’m going to replace that thing soon DIY. Will Techstream help with re-learning and pumping? Also, do you have part number that you use for new one? Did they change PN, or replacement is the same part and may faulty again in the future?
Nice vid man. Hey my 2010 Prius 180k miles throwing the C1391 code only, abnormal leakage detected along with all those lights brake, abs, and trac. Control Do I need to replace the accumulator that is below too?. Thank you for share this video, now i feel ready for the job i just waiting on the part from toyota Thank you again..
@@paulwall142 I finally replaced the brake booster only, today in my 2010 Prius which had the C1391 code only and so far so good , after driving around town for about 30 miles no lights or issues so far. good luck!!.
@@Goofy_ahh_Produtions I did so today as well! But didn't have as much luck, I didn't get to fully bleed my brakes. Did you bleed your brakes and the booster?
I couldn’t do the brake bleed because tech stream would error our whenever I got to abs bleed, so I did the bleed at the mechanic and now it looks all fixed, fingers crossed.
Whenever you’re near orange wires while working on hybrids definitely disconnect the battery and pull orange plug. Zero down procedure is specified in service manual. (Pro demand)
@@DI_Wy thanks anyway. Was hoping to pay you to get it done. I’m afraid to tackle the problem since I lack the confidence. Lol. Btw, it is possible to charge the hybrid battery (not 12v) at home? The car has been parking in the driveway for sometime and now the battery is out of juice. Any input would be appreciated!
I just had toyota replace the Accumulator or actuator whatever the entire system is that cost a fortune they should have paid for but I was just over the 150,000 mark..and they said the booster was not the issue... and now I still have the actuator pump going off every 15 seconds and a hissing sound at the boot. They said it is completely normal I’m bringing it back tomorrow and letting them know I live in this thing I would know if the pump is going off every 15 seconds 😆 Sounds like they replaced the wrong part that was causing the pump to go off. Since they replaced it the hiss around the pedal got even louder. 2010 Prius.
It’s funny because I was like I think it’s the booster but I’m not a mechanic so they charge me $100 to look at it and said it was the actuator.. or accumulator... (whatever that system is ) nothing like paying 1,800 and still having the issue that was driving you nuts hahaha!
To be honest seems kinda normal though for the actuator to be going off every so often. what was the original issue as to why they changed out the actuator on the first place. The actuator is the "hydraulic booster" and the accumulator is this filter looking thing underneath by the pump.
Buenas noches ,, el otro día cambié el líquido de frenos con un LAUNCH 909X y perfecto a un Toyota prius plus ,,lo que yo quería es purgar el simulador de carrera , aconsejaría usted purgar el simulador de carrera y si es fácil de purgar el simulador con el escáner , saludos 🇪🇸
HI great video~! I have 2011 Toyota Prius and my abs pump is making noise every 10 seconds, I would like to replace those parts but which one should I replace? hydraulic booster?or ABS pump? or BOTH? please i need your advise subscribing you channel ~^^
My abs lights came on all of a sudden. How do I figure out where the problem is. Your video is major surgery. Is there any way to diagnose w/o the scanner ? A local shop wants to charge me $140 to diagnose and said they need the car for 3 hrs ?
makes sense, abs deals with a lot like wheel speed sensor and other things. TBH I would say the only accurate way to diag it is with a scanner. The scanner will show you a general code such as "low pressure in actuator" or "wheel speed sensor RF" and thats where the diagnosis comes in play. You have to figure out what is causing the issue could be a connector or the actual part is bad itself.
ill be real with you. Ive done plenty research after this comment. First off the difficulty of torquing a brake line down would require a crows foot a long with a torque wrench. Secondly there is no torque specs on prodemand alldata ect for a brake line torque spec. Thirdly Ive been in this field for a while and I never once met a technician who torques their brake lines nor has a brake line torque wrench. Torque spec for brake line: as the Germans like to say Goodntight
The snapon is the shop scanner, I personally have the autel ms808 which runs around 1000 not sure if youre going to have to buy an update though for it
I'm in the process of replacing my brake actuator on a 2010 Prius. Is the hydraulic booster the same thing as the actuator? The dealer noted the repair as the following "brake booster assy w/ master cylinder & brake booster pump assy." Is this two different parts? I just purchased the brake booster w/ master cylinder but not sure if I need to purchase the actuator assembly as well, which looks like it has two pumps. The names of the parts vary, so it's kinda throwing me off. Good video btw
Sorry im a little thrown off by your comment. I know its not two parts. I believe people just call it different things. Basically its a electronic booster and master cylinder but ive heard it called a hydraulic booster or brake actuator. Dont quote me on it, I dont want to give you the wrong info.
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from government website.
This That mechanic is a piss poor mechanic he didn’t use hoses to bleed the lines he let it spray all over the car who wants a car with oil all over it I would and if I found out that they did that I would make them clean up the mess
Obviously it wasn’t sent out like that and it was cleaned up. As a flat rate tech I found it’s easier to do that than fight a flailing hose, It literally takes 1 minute to spray degreaser, wash it down with a hose and air dry it with a blow gun… also looks cleaner than when it comes in. Due to the Brake fluid pressure and amount of fluid coming out In my opinion it’s easier to see a steady stream without bubbles that way than through a vinyl tube. due to the pressure, the vinyl tube sometimes pops off the caliper or out of the bottle resulting in a cleanup after anyways. This video is for informational purposes anyway. Do what you want with it. If you only took that out of this video that’s on you. I hope this video helped you out, Best of luck on your repair though.
to be honest, I thought about that. The long video without cutting ended up being over an hour. As a fellow youtuber I do not want to sit through an hour long video, I felt it was needed to cut and edit this video. I feel I covered all the important parts. The scanner itself has instructions which will tell you step by step how to do it. I felt that wasnt something I needed to elaborate on since there was already instructions provided. However if you do have questions please ask away and I will answer to the best of my ability. If you got lost on the scanner part. Most scanner you will have to go to (and this is off the top of my head) "ABS" "Special Functions" "ABS bleeding" "ABS Bleed with actuator removed" and it will give you instructions from there.
Question; I changed the hydraulic booster on my 2014 Prius C because the brake fluid was disappearing. Now the rear wheels won’t spin! What a should do?
You have the best style of tutorial video I have ever seen. Clear audio with concise instructions including socket sizes, clear video of what we actually need to see, no skipped steps, and time lapse when appropriate with a real time clock in the corner. This is a masterclass in how to make a video of this type. Bravo my man!!!
Thank you sir. :)
Best repair instruction video. Clear and concise. Hope your channel grows to millions of subscribers.
thank you i appreciate it. Make sure you support by subbing :)
Thank you once again for your video. I am almost complete and could not do repair without it !!
Awesome video. Worked like a charm. The brake lines are difficult to get threaded correctly and easily cross threaded, which I did, bummer. I'm still way ahead of the game $150 for a used actuator and about 4 hours to do the job. Toyota wanted $2,300 to do the job on my 2010 with 225,000 miles.
Can you tell me what type of scanner did u used?
Same I bought used and did it myself, it’s not easy for beginners but totally doable for diyers
did the used part work? I saw a lot of people highly recommended OEM parts for this job
I appreciate your time and effort for producing this video. Saved me alot of money.
glad to head that, and I appreciate the comment and the sub, helps more than you know :)
Best bleeding explanation on YT thanks
Appreciate it :)
Great video! I have been looking for a video like this for a week. I found 10+ videos for gen 2 but none for gen 3. This is a very common issue. This video would have gotten 4x the views if you would have named it Gen 3 Prius brake actuator ABS replacement, which is what everyone is googling.
Thank you, means a lot. I added it to the hashtags and if you look it up on UA-cam now it shows up if you look up 3rd gen Prius actuator. Thanks for the insight!
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 FOR FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from government website. You can get reimbursement if you fixed it before. Just bring the receipt and talk to Dealer Rep.
@@rondhole it’s not. For 2010, it expired 2019
@@paulwall142 yes, 2010 are screwed with all problems as first model. Only 2011-newer. If I have 2010, I will sell it as soon as possible. It has too many problems from oil consumption, head gasket leak, and all kind of problems typical 1st year, 1st technology (Toyota first time use 1.8L in hybrid). 2016 model has much less problem although it is first year but not first time of 1.8L application in hybrid.
@@rondhole have a 2010 with only 76k. Brakes are my biggest problem. The dealer wasn't servicing the slide pins so I'm on my 3rd set of pads and rotors. Last year i think the line corroded so have new brake lines. Now i have my break abs and traction lights on because of a c0210 right rear speed sensor.
Great video. It took me 8 hours to carefully do this job along with spark plugs and some brake pads. It's back on the road. Thank you!
Side note, didn't use a TechStream. I bled it fairly normally but with the wire diagnostic mode trick to reset lights. We'll see how it goes.
I’m glad best of luck 🤙
thank you so much this helped me with a 2010 prius with 220k miles, if using the techstream software make sure to select reset memory first or the bleeding process will fail that drove me nuts
Youre very welcome! glad you took something out of it! never used techstream, but great input!
Yea I’m having issues with that now, I need to reset the ecu because the bleeding procedure fails
Thanks for letting us know!
Thanks for sharing this video with us very quickly and good explanation compared to some other video clips I've seen so far.
nice video now I want to do one lol, good little tip so brake fluid don't shoot everywhere use some vent hose and water bottle and can have one hooked up to each caliper.
LOL dont do it bro, I hated my first one! nah jj Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video. Great details, very helpful! But I'm a bit shocked about how casual you are with brake fluid, squirting it out as if it were water, it is a solvent and just getting it in your hands and touching painted surface can leave smudges (guess how I know). I am not sure if the scan tool will do the relearn, but it does do the brake bleed... what does the relearn do, and is it required?
why only the booster and no the accumulator
I think booster is an accumulator. I'm so confused
I missed the zero down step, while replacing the abs module. Now I’m having problems with bleeding and not learning linear valve offset. Tech stream is not communicating and failing. Any ideas on how I can do this
Any luck
Question it ask for linear code relearn... but I did a scan aand there isn't a code show up. I had to do it a few time. My 12 v battery die.
Super helpful, thanks for posting! I've never seen so much brake fluid spraying around though.
You’re welcome. Yeah the vinyl tube and bottle was cutting it. Lol we have a pressure washer at the shop so along with brake clean and washing after clean up was quick.
@@DI_Wy is there a way to contact you?
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics I guess you can dm me on Instagram
@@DI_Wy sure... send me the link please...
@@hybridsolutiondiagnostics it’s just toolguywy on Instagram
I was getting the Autel MS906TS scanner, but noticed something. The ABS module needs to be programmed from old unit data. Did not see you cover this in the video - Any reason why? With that in mind Autel said to use MS909, MS919 - Do you know if these are any good (eg will handle re-calibration, bleeding okay). 2010 Prius - regular
Hello there Toolguywy👋! I wasn’t aware of the zero down feature until I saw this video and did the replacement with new parts without doing zero down. Is this why I’m having trouble doing the bleed?
This is a great tutorial but you really need to put vinyl hose over the bleeder screws making a huge mess with the brake fluid
Clear and concise. No fluff or BS. What’s your opinion of changing out the accumulator at the same time? Not necessarily?
Could not get stroke simulator to bleed, could not get scan tool to perform any of the functions you did. Newest topdon scanner/programmer.
I’m lost 🤷♂️
you can make a video how to change toyota prius v 2012 wheel bearing
Hi. Great video.
Question if I lay. When you do the ABS bleed procedure, is the car turned on or is the switch only in the ON position?
Thank you!
2010 Prius here; Just started getting the christmas brake lights with C1391 code. 230k miles so out of the extended warranty for this issues. Going to try changing out the Brake pump booster (pn# 47070-47050). Any tips? Thanks for the video!
Tips...hmm... My first tip would take it to a shop and get a proper diagnosis. I usually dont recommend throwing parts at a car especially with a pretty expensive part. If the shop does condemn it and they are reputable I would suggest definitely thinking about it first before doing it and jumping in. If they diagnose wrong and you do it yourself it will be on you. So you really need to trust their diagnosis. If you do do it, take your time be patient. My first abs actuator was a pain. Make sure you have a proper scanner available and someone there who knows how to use a scanner. If you need any help just comment again ill try answer daily.
How much for parts and labor one should expect from a shop?
if the bleeding process was not complete what happen with the linear calibration
Great video! love the pace!
Is 2011 prius the same ? and how long should i bleed from each wheel
Hi could you show a video on the reprogramming of the prius booster if the code on your booster pump is different than the pump u buy . Thanks
Are you getting a ecm error code too??
I have c1252 c1253 c1256 any advice if it could be electrical problem beside the buster or best bet os to change the all assembly? Just will like to have your opinion no advise
I think the actuator/booster/master cylinder unit is critical, where if it fails, the car will have no brakes. Therefore, I have to get this new (not junk yard) . The accumulator/ABS pump I can get from junk yard. If it fails - no issue. Can someone please confirm.
You get it used, you can possibly swap over abs module. Life expectancy less than brand new. If you get it new you’re going to have to have it programmed at Toyota which is big bucks. Life expectancy greater.
@@DI_Wy That is fine, but if I get is used, I am worried about faulty unit. Is this component such that brakes will not work, if there is a faulty unit or they will still function, but not optimal.
@@DI_Wy Do you have video/instruction how to switch the ABS module?
@@DI_Wy Is Re-calibrate linear solenoid valve different than ABS module swap? So, if I re-calibrate linear solenoid valve, is an ABS module swap required?
How can you test it to see if it’s not working? If you press the foot brake piece and fluid is coming out normally does it mean it’s fine?
Coming out from where?
@@DI_Wy from the 4 line holes
@@DI_Wynvm I confused you with the question lol. Thanks for the video, I replaced the actuator but bled the system without a scanning tool, now the dash lights came again. What tools i need to bleed the system?
@@oc9215 most likely due to the fact you didn’t use a scan tool. The scan tool pretty much activates the abs and bleeds the air out of the module/booster. It makes sure there’s no air in the accumulator & module. If air is detected all lights will come back on. Most likely due to “accumulator pressure low.”
@@DI_Wy thanks a lot man 🙏 you’re a great help. Do you know what tool/scanner I need to bleed the system?
Hey I have a question I own a 2012 Prius V and the abs brake traction control light came on. The error code was C1391 - Abnormal Leak Of Accumulator Pressure . I replaced the accumulator with a used one from the savage yard and I'm still getting the same error code. By any chance would you know what else it can be?
@@thomasthejesusfromwish5341 Thank you for response. So the best route to take is to buy a new part from the dealer.
sorry my computer was down for a bit but im back now. I actually replaced my car with a used actuator once. I installed it bled using scanner and still same code and could not do full relearn. Decided to go with brand new one and it worked. My scanner was able to fully complete the abs bleed and relearn everything. Best bet for abs actuators is to get it new.
@@DI_Wy Thank you. Well in my case after installing the used actuator the code cleared and the car was running fine for the first 100miles then the abs/traction/brake light came on then cleared on its own for a few days and now it's back on again. I'm just gonna get a new one at the dealer. What was the cost for the new actuator ? Thanks for your help.
@@Alex-rd8fq your prius should be under warranty, check bulletin ZJB, you can get it done for free at dealership
@@Alex-rd8fq Keep in mind that what causes the C1391 internal leak is the brake booster assembly, the same on that is being replaced in the video. But before doing anything else make sure that your Prius is under warranty.
How many hours in total did the process take?
hi sir i just wont to know my car toyota prius alpha master pomp error how to repair any update pls
Sorry not following.
dude i need to replace 2010 prius actuator and pump how do i reprogram it afterwards
Ive never had to "reprogram" the new brake actuator besides air bleeding, all the relearns are covered in the air bleeding procedure. You are going to have to bleed it properly with a scanner. If you don't use a scanner to command the actuator it wont fully bleed the air out of the system and if there is air in the brake actuator it will a throw a code for low pressure and you will still have an abs and trac light. The bleeding procedure itself should relearn/reprogram it. At the end of the procedure it should automatically relearn all the yaw rate and linear valve offset. Some scanners might be different, but through the snapon solus you can try do the "test mode" in functional tests which should run and relearn three things. When its relearning make sure that the trac and abs light blink rapidly, if it doesn't maybe theres still air in the system or something else is wrong besides the actuator. I hope that helps.
@@DI_Wy This is exactly what I did, replace 2010 prius actuator and pump and now I have C1246 code..... I need a scanner now to redo the bleeding procedure.
Wat is the best scanner that I can use other then the snap on scanner from your professional point of view
TBH I only really have experience with the Autel, Snapon and Autoland Iscan3. The Iscan3 does a lot but is sometimes confusing. I do like the snapon however my favorite was the Autel MS908. It was easy to use, did most of the things that the snapon did and in a lot of cases it did more such as adaptations, relearns and coding. It really depends which scanners youre comparing.
Will autel ms908 similar to autel ms908s?
U think the inova 3170rs would work, if not what scanner do u recommend? Thank u sir.
not sure sorry, havent had much expirience with that!
Best video ever . Helpful
thank you i appreciate it. Make sure you support by subbing :)
Hi i have a prius in my workshop.it has no active faults on the scanner.problem im having is the brakes are intermitantly holding on.just say im driving along come to a set off trafic lights.press the brake now when i go to pull off i feel all brakes are locked until i repress the brakes slightly to realese.i had the diagnostic connected and what i noticed is the SRC and SMC soleniods wasnt realesing.sometimes just one would realese somes times none.very intermitant.any idea what could cause this.also where are these linear soleniods located in the abs module or the acumulator module.would really appriciate your help.thanks.ive done linear ofsets.has no codes.
What is the best affordable obd tool to use/ buy?
I may say the xtools d7 or the xtools am30m however I’m not 100% sure if it is able to do the relearns. It is a bidirectional scanner which means it can do relearns and commands however I’m not sure if it can do it. You should do some research first however it is the best bang for your buck for a bidirectional scanner. If not an autel ms906 should do fine. You can buy it new or used however if you buy it used make sure that the previous owner can transfer the registration to you before buying. If not you will not be able to update it.
Do you need to have a scanner to do this? Or can you get away with doing the bleeding process manually like with a normal car while putting the car in invalid mode? I've seen other videos do it manually but I'm not sure if it can apply to this process.
you need a scanner. If you dont abs bleed it correctly there will still be an abs light and abs fault code.
@@DI_Wy Oh I see, thanks for the response! Would you happen to know if techstream could work for doing this?
@@TylerTheMoron to be honest I'm not to sure, never used tech stream before. However I'm guessing it can? Seems like tech stream is recommended for most relearned adaptations etc by pro demand but then again I'm not sure. That's only a guess.
@@TylerTheMoron don't quote me on that. I'd recommend doing research first before purchasing or subscribing to anything. :/
@@DI_Wy I'll be looking into it, thanks for the reply. I don't have any experience using diagnostic tools for car repairs, but it looks like I'll be having to do this repair soon one way or another. Your content will definitely be a huge help for that!
You increased the video speed that's why i couldn’t get scanner process when you air bleeding the brake oil & also didn’t got the calibration process 😞😔
Is the zero down function same as an airbleed? What are the dangers if skipping this test?
no its not, it lowers the pressure within the actuator. Not to sure what the dangers are if you dont do it. It says on prodemand to do so and I was taught to do that as well.
Well done
Thank you, means alot!
I have a Prius 30, 2011. I changed the booster because I started to hum often. After the error 1345 and 1368 came out. The brakes are bad what to do? where to look?
If you're not to sure and you're looking for a proper diagnosis I recommend taking it to a specialty shop that specializes in hybrids.
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from the government website.
I just bought a brand new actuator and pump assembly and hired a mechanic to replace my bad ones. I have a 2010 Prius with 161k miles, so it is not covered by Toyota. The mechanic replaced the bad actuator and bled the brakes manually. Now I have three new error codes C1203, C1345, C1451. The mechanic thinks that I need to take it to the dealer to "reprogram the actuator". Does this sound right?
Depends what scanner he’s using. I’ve run into that problem before. If he’s using he snapon did he try running it through “test mode” it relearned everything as well. If not sometimes the actuator will throw codes if there’s still air in the lines.
But then again I have ran into 1 or 2 that needed to be taken to Toyota to be reprogrammed
I’m going to replace that thing soon DIY. Will Techstream help with re-learning and pumping? Also, do you have part number that you use for new one? Did they change PN, or replacement is the same part and may faulty again in the future?
Can someone do the brake re-programing for me??? Pls help!!!!
Gotta use a capable scanner or tow the car somewhere where they can do it for you.
Nice vid man. Hey my 2010 Prius 180k miles throwing the C1391 code only, abnormal leakage detected along with all those lights brake, abs, and trac. Control Do I need to replace the accumulator that is below too?.
Thank you for share this video, now i feel ready for the job i just waiting on the part from toyota
Thank you again..
Any luck? I was wondering the same thing. Should I only change the Brake Booster(47210-47140), or the brake pump(47070-47050) as well?
@@paulwall142 I finally replaced the brake booster only, today in my 2010 Prius which had the C1391 code only and so far so good , after driving around town for about 30 miles no lights or issues so far. good luck!!.
@@Goofy_ahh_Produtions I did so today as well! But didn't have as much luck, I didn't get to fully bleed my brakes. Did you bleed your brakes and the booster?
I couldn’t do the brake bleed because tech stream would error our whenever I got to abs bleed, so I did the bleed at the mechanic and now it looks all fixed, fingers crossed.
@@Goofy_ahh_Produtions How do you know what piece is bad with the C1391 code?
Do you leave the brake fluid level sensor disconnected for the entire bleed procedure?
I plug it in to be safe.
How much charge for this Job?
Not sure i need this part but every video i watch has different tips. Nobody mentions disconnecting the battery or the zero down procedure
Whenever you’re near orange wires while working on hybrids definitely disconnect the battery and pull orange plug. Zero down procedure is specified in service manual. (Pro demand)
How to claim for warranty my car is break
Hey Toolguy, by chance you are in Orange County California?
Negative by guy, located down in hawaii
@@DI_Wy thanks anyway. Was hoping to pay you to get it done. I’m afraid to tackle the problem since I lack the confidence. Lol. Btw, it is possible to charge the hybrid battery (not 12v) at home? The car has been parking in the driveway for sometime and now the battery is out of juice. Any input would be appreciated!
Worked great thank you.
I just had toyota replace the Accumulator or actuator whatever the entire system is that cost a fortune they should have paid for but I was just over the 150,000 mark..and they said the booster was not the issue... and now I still have the actuator pump going off every 15 seconds and a hissing sound at the boot. They said it is completely normal I’m bringing it back tomorrow and letting them know I live in this thing I would know if the pump is going off every 15 seconds 😆 Sounds like they replaced the wrong part that was causing the pump to go off. Since they replaced it the hiss around the pedal got even louder. 2010 Prius.
It’s funny because I was like I think it’s the booster but I’m not a mechanic so they charge me $100 to look at it and said it was the actuator.. or accumulator... (whatever that system is ) nothing like paying 1,800 and still having the issue that was driving you nuts hahaha!
To be honest seems kinda normal though for the actuator to be going off every so often. what was the original issue as to why they changed out the actuator on the first place. The actuator is the "hydraulic booster" and the accumulator is this filter looking thing underneath by the pump.
Buenas noches ,, el otro día cambié el líquido de frenos con un LAUNCH 909X y perfecto a un Toyota prius plus ,,lo que yo quería es purgar el simulador de carrera , aconsejaría usted purgar el simulador de carrera y si es fácil de purgar el simulador con el escáner , saludos 🇪🇸
are you using a tool(scanner)
The front screws are 10mm
Very good video.
Thank you means alot!
Is there any other way to do linear vale learning if you don't have that diagnosis tool?
Not that I know of sorry, I doubt it though. Haven’t really looked into other ways since our shop ha a tool.
Where are you located and how much would you charge to perform those repairs ?
HI great video~!
I have 2011 Toyota Prius and my abs pump is making noise every 10 seconds, I would like to replace those parts but which one should I replace?
hydraulic booster?or ABS pump? or BOTH? please i need your advise
subscribing you channel ~^^
Great video but with all that brake fluid draining on the floor, I thought these cars were good for the environment?
The brake pressure kept pushing the vinyl tube off.
You are Awesome sir.
Thanks, support by subscribing!
@@DI_Wy yes sir 🙌
@@andyworku5128 thanks brotha
My abs lights came on all of a sudden. How do I figure out where the problem is. Your video is major surgery. Is there any way to diagnose w/o the scanner ? A local shop wants to charge me $140 to diagnose and said they need the car for 3 hrs ?
makes sense, abs deals with a lot like wheel speed sensor and other things. TBH I would say the only accurate way to diag it is with a scanner. The scanner will show you a general code such as "low pressure in actuator" or "wheel speed sensor RF" and thats where the diagnosis comes in play. You have to figure out what is causing the issue could be a connector or the actual part is bad itself.
There is no torque spec for the brake lines?
ill be real with you. Ive done plenty research after this comment. First off the difficulty of torquing a brake line down would require a crows foot a long with a torque wrench. Secondly there is no torque specs on prodemand alldata ect for a brake line torque spec. Thirdly Ive been in this field for a while and I never once met a technician who torques their brake lines nor has a brake line torque wrench.
Torque spec for brake line: as the Germans like to say Goodntight
@@DI_Wy So i guess, if it does not leaks, it's fine as it is
Just a little snug is fine bro, don’t see leaks you good ;)
@@radiospank Well then
Is other scanners ( cheaper )you will recommend to do this job?
The snapon is the shop scanner, I personally have the autel ms808 which runs around 1000 not sure if youre going to have to buy an update though for it
@@DI_Wy
Thanks bro Appreciate it
I called autel tech they say I need to buy Toyota software, can you tell me is that correct please?
@@jjlm79 I guess you’re going to have to update it. I thought the update might come with the brand new scanner. But i guess not.
@@jjlm79 Did you find anything else on requiring the Toyota Software with Autel?
Very nice 👌
No need to disconnect the hybird Plug
I'm in the process of replacing my brake actuator on a 2010 Prius. Is the hydraulic booster the same thing as the actuator? The dealer noted the repair as the following "brake booster assy w/ master cylinder & brake booster pump assy." Is this two different parts? I just purchased the brake booster w/ master cylinder but not sure if I need to purchase the actuator assembly as well, which looks like it has two pumps. The names of the parts vary, so it's kinda throwing me off. Good video btw
Sorry im a little thrown off by your comment. I know its not two parts. I believe people just call it different things. Basically its a electronic booster and master cylinder but ive heard it called a hydraulic booster or brake actuator. Dont quote me on it, I dont want to give you the wrong info.
It's actually 2 different parts. The brake actuator is the one you took off. The brake booster is the part below the actuator
@@DI_Wy I have 2010 prius with same problem. I will send links and please let me know by toyota's name for the part you are fixing -- thanks !
gawd what a headache. thank you man
You're very welcome!
Dude,.... IT is COVERED by TOYOTA until 31 August 2021 static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf Check this bulletin from government website.
Whoa, bro!!!!! With the brake fluid!!!!! What a mess!!!!
you would think a little hose on the end but I'm no mechanic!
Thanks!
any time, hope it helped!
replacement
10 year warranty
Yes 10 year or 150,000 mile whichever comes first. Most people exceed 150 miles voiding the warranty
@@DI_Wy thanks
what a mess with Brake fluid...how can anybody post on UA-cam..?
ok
Hey - toolguywy is helping us out a great deal. If you do not like - find other videos.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 mind your own business bro
Woww thanks for the information dude.....I will never buy or own a Toyota hybrid car ever.....
They are great cars though, expensive to upkeep.
no wander is a $3000 job
This That mechanic is a piss poor mechanic he didn’t use hoses to bleed the lines he let it spray all over the car who wants a car with oil all over it I would and if I found out that they did that I would make them clean up the mess
Obviously it wasn’t sent out like that and it was cleaned up. As a flat rate tech I found it’s easier to do that than fight a flailing hose, It literally takes 1 minute to spray degreaser, wash it down with a hose and air dry it with a blow gun… also looks cleaner than when it comes in.
Due to the Brake fluid pressure and amount of fluid coming out In my opinion it’s easier to see a steady stream without bubbles that way than through a vinyl tube. due to the pressure, the vinyl tube sometimes pops off the caliper or out of the bottle resulting in a cleanup after anyways.
This video is for informational purposes anyway. Do what you want with it. If you only took that out of this video that’s on you. I hope this video helped you out, Best of luck on your repair though.
@@DI_Wy Brake fluid is the worst thing in the whole world - almost like acid - will eat anything.
You are Messi
Why u doing to fast u shud do slowly so ppl understand u talk fast nd scaner use fast to westing time make onther video show the slowly
to be honest, I thought about that. The long video without cutting ended up being over an hour. As a fellow youtuber I do not want to sit through an hour long video, I felt it was needed to cut and edit this video. I feel I covered all the important parts. The scanner itself has instructions which will tell you step by step how to do it. I felt that wasnt something I needed to elaborate on since there was already instructions provided. However if you do have questions please ask away and I will answer to the best of my ability. If you got lost on the scanner part. Most scanner you will have to go to (and this is off the top of my head) "ABS" "Special Functions" "ABS bleeding" "ABS Bleed with actuator removed" and it will give you instructions from there.
Question; I changed the hydraulic booster on my 2014 Prius C because the brake fluid was disappearing. Now the rear wheels won’t spin! What a should do?
I don’t know. Did you get it looked at professionally?