I successfully installed my actuator on an 07 Gen 2 Prius yesterday! For anyone out there who is considering doing this job themselves. I would like to point out a few things that might help put your mind at ease. First off, I was absolutely horrified at the thought of working on a vehicle with such high voltage that it could potentially kill me. I was so scared of it I almost didn't go through with the repair. BUT, take my word for it. If you remove the battery cables from the 12v battery and remove the main fuse (orange plug) from the hybrid battery then press the power button on the car to start it and nothing happens. Then the car becomes 100% safe to work on! I had no issues whatsoever. Secondly, YOU DO NOT NEED TECHSTREAM TO BLEED THE BRAKES! Guys, I was so worried that I needed special equipment or software to bleed the brakes that I almost gave up on doing this repair myself. It is simply NOT TRUE! I bleed the brakes the same way I'd bleed any other vehicles brakes and it worked perfect. If you are still having trouble bleeding the brakes, leave a comment here and I'll explain exactly how I did it (by myself, with no helper). Anyway, this is a great video and was very helpful in giving me the confidence boost I needed to do the repair myself. I saved literally $3400 thanks to this video and others like it! It took me probably 15 hours from start to finish, and I am very handy with a wrench and no stranger to big repairs. So don't listen to the people saying it's a 3 or 4 hour job. That is ludicrous. You will want to set aside more time than that I assure you. BUT! You can do this people! Good luck =)
I just did this job last weekend. I started on Friday night, spent abou 1.5 hrs and then started at around 8-9 am and finished at around 4-5. I did the bleeding myself. But my 2008 Prius would not start after. All the Christmas lights were on and the touchscreen would not power up. I got my part from eBay and seller said it was a rebuilt part. I heard my mechanic say that the ABS module has the VIN from previous vehicle and you need a brand new module. I did not believe him and now after 8+ hrs of patient work my Prius is dead. Engine won’t start. Big ! Is on. Does anyone have any advice? Help.
@@roz4747 yes, I forgot to engage the main battery switch in the trunk. I think you need to push up the orange safety switch at the end. I also bled the brakes manually just so I could reach the mechanic. Prius is back in action.
I used your video and one other video to change my abs module. I saved thousands of dollars. The one thing that your video did for me that’s the other did not was performing the bleed process before you connect power back to the car. That alone saved me dealer quoted 3-4 hours labor for the computer bleeding, assuming I drove it to them after I did the part swap. I’m so glad I was able to give a few more years to a car I paid 1k for. A few days later no softness from the pedal at all. Thanks
The brake lines are NOT difficult to remove if you use the correct flange nut wrench. Second, the reason why most sell with the lines cut off is so that no debris or dirt goes into the pump. Third, removing the wipers and wiper cowl takes 5 minutes and makes the job of removing the pump 50% easier. Just as an
They aren’t hard if they aren’t corroded lmao, I had the flare wrench but still almost rounded the nuts over in my car bc of how tight / corroded they were. Def easier after that tho, had to do it again 6 months later bc what I thought was my master cylinder was my abs. Or maybe both idk🤣
Did my 2007 GEn 2 last weekend after getting the part on ebay. Watched this video and a couple of others, very helpful and thank you. Did remove the cowl and wipers, made access easier. Not a mechanic per say, i made small videos of all nuts and bolts i removed and placed them in plastic bags with notes, that was helpful the next day when i had to put it all back together. Few things that would have made my life easier: Magnetic sockets, u only need a 10,12,14mm for that job, get them. A magnet stick i dropped a few items, a tool to disconnect the electric connectors (some can be a pain). I followed Vlad suggestion for the brake fluid and last brake line connection. Once all put back together, i did not bleed the brakes. Got the errors still on Dashboard but reset using the pin method. A week into it all seems fine so far.
@@chriswhalen2153 Sorry for the delay in replying you might be done by now, but just in case. I took my time and basically did it over the weekend nice and easy. Could be done in a Day or few hours if you are experienced, i wasn't on that particular part. BTW all is still working a year later, i lucked out on ebay at least so far. Cheers!
Great video . Next time , pull out the cowling👍 it's only taking off the windshield wipers 13mm/ 5 or 6 10mms the wiper motor and about 9 /10 mms . That would have made that job so much easier. I'm having a hell of a time and that's having the cowling removed.
Thank you for this content. It's the best quality, most complete video here on this work. The only part missing is removing the wiper cowl to get more room to work but even with that missing, this is the best single vid on the subject. Thanks. edit: that little "connector" on the inverter cover is actually a safety lock out for the HV system. Also, that service plug on the HV battery actually halves the max possible voltage from about 220 to 110.
I've done this repair. Remove the wiper assembly first or you will really struggle removing the inverter mounts. It is worth the extra 5 minutes it takes. Also just disconnect and remove the inverter entirely. The cooling system is separate from the engine and not hard to refill. I also took apart my abs module and tried to repair it. My theory is that there was something allowing hydraulic pressure to bleed off some where in the valve body. To take the module apart the circuit board must have the spot welded connections to the coils and the two wires to the motor broken, then the circuit board pulls off (these can be soldered back after). I found that there are 7 o-rings that connect the valve body to pressure transducers. If your circuit board is filled with brake fluid, these seal would be leaking and that's the source of the problem. That was not my problem though. There are no other seals I could get to and nothing else removable under the circuit board side. I could remove the motor, but not the pump without destroying it. My solution was somewhat complicated and only partially worked. I purchased a used abs module and after fully installed it, I found that it was cracked and wouldn't work. I swapped the accumulator from this used module to mine, which I had put back together, and reinstalled everything. My abs pump ran less frequently and didn't throw another code for at least several months ( I don't have the car anymore). My theories on what the problem is: The accumulator goes bad and needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a new one to install, nor any specs to retrofit. The pump wears out and struggles to build pressure. Pump cannot be removed by any means I could see, it looked pressed in and locked in with a seal. I think since swapping the accumulator worked for me, retrofitting a new accumulator sourced from another toyota or something industrial would be a good solution to this issue.
this is great i was told that toyota had to do it. but im curious did you still bring the car to a garage to bleed the breaks on the computer. you did mention that but was unclear if you actually needed to do it in this case due to how you left the line cracked on the top to vent the air. also if you did bring it to someone how much did that cost?
it appears this is a common problem with these cars . my wife took it to the dealer and they wanted $3500 to replace it . thanks for the video . gonna save me thousands ..
great video. Thorough and well trimmed from time wasters like doing the bolts. but thanks for point their locations out. I'm doing mine this afternoon, and this is all i needed
Just did this today on my '08, had been putting it off forever but this video along with a couple others was enough to get me thru it. Got lucky with my used eBay actuator.
Thank you. We inherited our Prius. Gave it to my daughter for college commutes. I hate it. Hate it even more now, LOL. Soon as I do this fix, I'm selling cheap to anyone, get daughter something else to drive.
How did you bleed the breaks by yourself. Im doing this job by myself so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the informative video by the way.
Hello, I really like your thorough Prius videos. Thank You! Could you advise an issue with braking? It is what I am calling delayed brake release. After you take your foot off the brake they do not release, there is a two second delay before the wheel is freely rolling. 2007 Prius, 240k, already replaced the brake booster, no significant improvement and it is the front brakes.
This issue may be seized caliper pins or maybe the stroke simulator located at the top of the brake pedal. Did you ever find out what was causing your delayed brake release?
Great video. And like he said he advise buying a new one if possible. I did this repair and the used one I purchased on eBay was broke. Now I have to do this all over again.
Hey Vlad, I got the actuator code and I can hear the pump running about every 15 seconds with foot off the brake. Also there is a rapid clicking noise as the pump runs and it's coming from a block near the passenger rear wheel where all the brake lines are. Can't figure that out and I'd like to know more about it before I replace the actuator. Please advise
Hi! I ordered one from eBay, but it still makes that dolphin 🐬 sound when you press the brakes, after I changed it, the lights on the dash (brake, Abs, Vsc and the other didn’t go out by themselves). There’s another video of another guy from City College that as soon as he swaps it, the lights go out by themselves . Question is: Did you lights when out automatically or not ?
I’ve been told it needs to be reprogrammed to my car is that true and how do I go about doing that? If my mobile mechanic is able to what should I look for to make sure that he does the reprogramming properly.
Hi thank you so much for this incredible video. Can I ask you, if my my brake like is completely empty due to a caliper failure. Do you think it will refill just by pumping the pedal and bleeding the caliper, or by pumping fluid from the caliper, up to the master cylinder?
Did this a few months ago, this video definitely would have been my go to if it was around then 👍 Got lucky with my used ABS from a junker hopefully I'll have another car by the time it decides to die again.
@@HankHill1 I agree with you in that one. Even after watching this “simple” video I am still confused. It seems like it ain’t that easy to do it even yourself.
@@LUK77ACH hold up. It's absolutely possible I've done it twice now. Look around at other people's videos when you're bored as they might reveal more than another. Bleeding the brakes is another thing and that I truly recommend letting the dealership do it since it's $150. Call the insurance company and let them tow it for free. But If you have Techstream then try it out yourself since you have nothing to lose.
I replaced the brake actuator on my 315000 mile prius with a used one from a car with 215000 miles on it all that work 2000 miles later and the car started doing somewhat the same thing with the exception the brakes work and are not hard to press. I'm hoping it's not the actuator again, maybe the distribution block, but i doubt i would be that lucky. I thinking either it was already about to fail, or bleeding the brakes manually and not bleeding them with a computer. Useful tip: you can use a 1/2 bolt to seal the brake hose from the reservoir.
Did you consider removing the wiper arms, motor, and tray? It takes less than 10 minutes to pull all of that, and it uncovers that area behind the inverter, directly over the booster. With that all out of the way, you probably could have shifted the top brake line out of the way and lifted the booster nearly straight up. I'll be swapping parts between 2 "dead" 06s sometime soon and will add replies to this comment on what might shorten the work time.
Remove the window guard and it allow you to get access to removing and installing those trouble bolts and removing the Actuator also. I am about take on this same Job after receiving a C1256, C1300, C1391. So ordering new brakes, rotor, caliper and a Actuator. Probably have someone bleed it all when I am done replacing all the parts and hope all the codes clean.
Hey dude I have same problem with 09 toyota prius actuator. Did you have do some program on replacement ABS module? I hope to hear from you real soon b4 I do replacement ABS unit ok
Pretty cool, however I'm pretty sure the fluid you see coming out of the top of the ABS unis is coming FROM the line FROM the master cylinder rather than UP inside the ABS pump. At least, that's the way it appears to me as I do this. When the ABS is unpowered or even in FAILSAFE mode, it is actually closed (bypass mode) so the actuators inside aren't opening to allow fluid through. Not a bad idea though.
Keep everything loose start to brake lines with your fingers once they're started go to another brake line wiggle and jiggle the ABS around takes time but don't tighten nothing down until you have them all started then bleed the unit like he shows in the video and tighten down the brake lines first then the rest of the bolts. The bolts that secure the ABS module bracket to the engine do those last start them but keep them real loose
For those who have replaced their ABS actuator with a used unit, how many of you also replaced the resistor? The actuator and resistor are supposedly "matched" to each other. The new units from Toyota come with the resistor. I contacted the salvage yard to inquire about the resistor in the same Prius the actuator came out of. The car had been crushed and recycled, so I will just keep my fingers crossed. This mystery part is located way under the dashboard and is a royal PIA, according to those who actually changed it.
I for one can tell you removing the resistor takes only 5 minutes with a small ratchet and 10mm. Second, you don't need to replace the resistor when using a used unit. Toyota sells the resistor to basically ensure equal life out of the abs system.
@@gr2262 So far, no trouble from the salvage unit. Hopefully, the unit will hold up for a couple of years (or longer) which will give me time to replace it with a new one or trade for a gen 4. Your comment relieves my anxiety concerning the original resistor not being changed. Thanks for your feedback and information. This is the only major part to have failed since I bought the car, so I would definitely own another one. I'm still on the original battery pack!
I use six magnetic trays from Harbor Freight and a 20 compartment storage bin. Putting bolts back into their respective holes also works well, but will take up more time to complete the job. The plastic clips and pins are easily replaced with new ones if they break. And make note of bolts with the same size but different lengths to make sure they go where they were removed. During disassembly, I tend to reinstall such bolts back into their holes where they belong so they will be there waiting upon reassembly. Some people used ziploc bags and label the location where the bolts came from, but my magnetic trays accomplish the same thing.
what problem did you have to replace the the ABS brake actuator. I have 2005 and my brake light come on and more light on dashboard. I have the problem when i drive for more the 45 minutes and is hot. How much you pay for you Abs Brake module and where. Thanks
Hi All and thanks Just Vlad for this video. I will help me a lot. I have to change my ABS Brake module on my Gen 2 Toyota Prius from 2006. I get the code error C1344. Is there anything to programm when you put a new ABS Brake Module? Or it is just "mechanical"? thanks a lot for your answer. Sorry for my english, it's not my mother tongue.
In my 2004 Prius no programming needed, just used X Tool scanner $800 about when I got it., when I had enough to buy 1 year after, but scanner is very useful many times over. Hope it helps. helps.
I'm sure he mentioned all 4 tires as older cars, without ABS. I did it to mine and used it for 1 year,( parking break light on, vsc light on, abs light on but i was able to break in any traffic condition, not snow) until I boughtt a X tool scanner, it helped me do brake bleeding procedure by my self, no issues 1year later after scanner was used to complete bleeding procedure. Hope it helps.
In addition to not having anti skid braking, a failure of the abs module also disables traction control and more importantly, disables regenerative braking. Regen braking to charge the battery is a large part of how the Prius obtains good gas mileage. With the ABS inoperative, expect mileage in the 25-30 mpg range instead of 45-50 mpg.
@Just Vlad, I changed my Actuator with success, the Prius starts up just fine, but now I am left with the TPS, VSC, ABS and brake light on. All these lights accompanied by a constant beep sound. The beep sound happens whenever I hit the brake or open the driver side door, my prius has been sitting in my garage for months with me not being able to figure this out. If anyone can help please do, I've looked all over the internet and cannot find a solution besides getting a mini vci from china and waiting 30 years for it to get here. thanks in advanced !
To be honest I dont really know what to tell you. It could be a number of things like air in the system or electrical issue or maybe the new actuator is faulty. When mine started acting up and beeping I just unplugged the beeper under the driver side footwell to keep using the car until i received the new actuator. These cars are complicated and I defiantly recommend getting a mini vci to at least know what the car trying to tell you. You might have to get someone in your area that knows prius to help you. Hope you can figure it out.
@@Dierect_ttv my car exactly doing same things like yours.i am thinking to replace my actuator but not sure is it worth it or I can make it your advice very very important for me my time and money can you make it and suggest me to replace by my self thank you
You didn’t take early safety precautions in this video, plus your lucky cause your suppose to disconnect the auxiliary negative battery terminal first before removing the service plug
great vid, I'm really disappointed in toyota though, these should last the life of the car, even my super old BMW 3 series' have never had failures like this, even with 200k+ miles
I successfully installed my actuator on an 07 Gen 2 Prius yesterday! For anyone out there who is considering doing this job themselves. I would like to point out a few things that might help put your mind at ease. First off, I was absolutely horrified at the thought of working on a vehicle with such high voltage that it could potentially kill me. I was so scared of it I almost didn't go through with the repair. BUT, take my word for it. If you remove the battery cables from the 12v battery and remove the main fuse (orange plug) from the hybrid battery then press the power button on the car to start it and nothing happens. Then the car becomes 100% safe to work on! I had no issues whatsoever. Secondly, YOU DO NOT NEED TECHSTREAM TO BLEED THE BRAKES! Guys, I was so worried that I needed special equipment or software to bleed the brakes that I almost gave up on doing this repair myself. It is simply NOT TRUE! I bleed the brakes the same way I'd bleed any other vehicles brakes and it worked perfect. If you are still having trouble bleeding the brakes, leave a comment here and I'll explain exactly how I did it (by myself, with no helper). Anyway, this is a great video and was very helpful in giving me the confidence boost I needed to do the repair myself. I saved literally $3400 thanks to this video and others like it! It took me probably 15 hours from start to finish, and I am very handy with a wrench and no stranger to big repairs. So don't listen to the people saying it's a 3 or 4 hour job. That is ludicrous. You will want to set aside more time than that I assure you. BUT! You can do this people! Good luck =)
I just did this job last weekend. I started on Friday night, spent abou 1.5 hrs and then started at around 8-9 am and finished at around 4-5. I did the bleeding myself.
But my 2008 Prius would not start after. All the Christmas lights were on and the touchscreen would not power up. I got my part from eBay and seller said it was a rebuilt part. I heard my mechanic say that the ABS module has the VIN from previous vehicle and you need a brand new module. I did not believe him and now after 8+ hrs of patient work my Prius is dead. Engine won’t start. Big ! Is on. Does anyone have any advice? Help.
@@IlyaBourim what did you find out?
@@roz4747 yes, I forgot to engage the main battery switch in the trunk. I think you need to push up the orange safety switch at the end. I also bled the brakes manually just so I could reach the mechanic. Prius is back in action.
@@IlyaBourim thanks, guess Ima try the repair on mine. 185k on the original.
@@roz4747 just go slow. Remove the top tray where window wipers are. Disconnect the small battery before disconnect the main one.
I used your video and one other video to change my abs module. I saved thousands of dollars. The one thing that your video did for me that’s the other did not was performing the bleed process before you connect power back to the car. That alone saved me dealer quoted 3-4 hours labor for the computer bleeding, assuming I drove it to them after I did the part swap. I’m so glad I was able to give a few more years to a car I paid 1k for. A few days later no softness from the pedal at all. Thanks
So you just bled yourself and never had to have the dealer do the power bleed?
The brake lines are NOT difficult to remove if you use the correct flange nut wrench. Second, the reason why most sell with the lines cut off is so that no debris or dirt goes into the pump. Third, removing the wipers and wiper cowl takes 5 minutes and makes the job of removing the pump 50% easier. Just as an
They aren’t hard if they aren’t corroded lmao, I had the flare wrench but still almost rounded the nuts over in my car bc of how tight / corroded they were. Def easier after that tho, had to do it again 6 months later bc what I thought was my master cylinder was my abs. Or maybe both idk🤣
Did my 2007 GEn 2 last weekend after getting the part on ebay. Watched this video and a couple of others, very helpful and thank you. Did remove the cowl and wipers, made access easier. Not a mechanic per say, i made small videos of all nuts and bolts i removed and placed them in plastic bags with notes, that was helpful the next day when i had to put it all back together. Few things that would have made my life easier: Magnetic sockets, u only need a 10,12,14mm for that job, get them. A magnet stick i dropped a few items, a tool to disconnect the electric connectors (some can be a pain). I followed Vlad suggestion for the brake fluid and last brake line connection. Once all put back together, i did not bleed the brakes. Got the errors still on Dashboard but reset using the pin method. A week into it all seems fine so far.
Do you remember about how many hours it took you to do the repair? Thanks!
@@chriswhalen2153 Sorry for the delay in replying you might be done by now, but just in case. I took my time and basically did it over the weekend nice and easy. Could be done in a Day or few hours if you are experienced, i wasn't on that particular part. BTW all is still working a year later, i lucked out on ebay at least so far. Cheers!
You are awesome Vlad! Voice is so calm through all the trials of the install!
One of the best repair vids I've ever seen...possibly #1
Great video . Next time , pull out the cowling👍 it's only taking off the windshield wipers 13mm/ 5 or 6 10mms the wiper motor and about 9 /10 mms . That would have made that job so much easier. I'm having a hell of a time and that's having the cowling removed.
Thank you for this content. It's the best quality, most complete video here on this work. The only part missing is removing the wiper cowl to get more room to work but even with that missing, this is the best single vid on the subject. Thanks.
edit: that little "connector" on the inverter cover is actually a safety lock out for the HV system. Also, that service plug on the HV battery actually halves the max possible voltage from about 220 to 110.
I've done this repair. Remove the wiper assembly first or you will really struggle removing the inverter mounts. It is worth the extra 5 minutes it takes. Also just disconnect and remove the inverter entirely. The cooling system is separate from the engine and not hard to refill.
I also took apart my abs module and tried to repair it. My theory is that there was something allowing hydraulic pressure to bleed off some where in the valve body. To take the module apart the circuit board must have the spot welded connections to the coils and the two wires to the motor broken, then the circuit board pulls off (these can be soldered back after). I found that there are 7 o-rings that connect the valve body to pressure transducers. If your circuit board is filled with brake fluid, these seal would be leaking and that's the source of the problem. That was not my problem though. There are no other seals I could get to and nothing else removable under the circuit board side. I could remove the motor, but not the pump without destroying it.
My solution was somewhat complicated and only partially worked. I purchased a used abs module and after fully installed it, I found that it was cracked and wouldn't work. I swapped the accumulator from this used module to mine, which I had put back together, and reinstalled everything. My abs pump ran less frequently and didn't throw another code for at least several months ( I don't have the car anymore).
My theories on what the problem is:
The accumulator goes bad and needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a new one to install, nor any specs to retrofit.
The pump wears out and struggles to build pressure. Pump cannot be removed by any means I could see, it looked pressed in and locked in with a seal.
I think since swapping the accumulator worked for me, retrofitting a new accumulator sourced from another toyota or something industrial would be a good solution to this issue.
this is great i was told that toyota had to do it.
but im curious did you still bring the car to a garage to bleed the breaks on the computer. you did mention that but was unclear if you actually needed to do it in this case due to how you left the line cracked on the top to vent the air.
also if you did bring it to someone how much did that cost?
it appears this is a common problem with these cars . my wife took it to the dealer and they wanted $3500 to replace it .
thanks for the video . gonna save me thousands ..
I am gonna follow exactly the same procedure tomorrow. Wish me good luck.
Exceptional video,simple to the point. Pain in the ass job but doable. Thanks.
great video. Thorough and well trimmed from time wasters like doing the bolts. but thanks for point their locations out. I'm doing mine this afternoon, and this is all i needed
Appreciate the hard work on this, it's time for the first brake actuator replacement on my older Prius so this video will be quite helpful.
Just did this today on my '08, had been putting it off forever but this video along with a couple others was enough to get me thru it. Got lucky with my used eBay actuator.
Honestly this video was really helpful. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you. We inherited our Prius. Gave it to my daughter for college commutes. I hate it. Hate it even more now, LOL. Soon as I do this fix, I'm selling cheap to anyone, get daughter something else to drive.
How did you bleed the breaks by yourself. Im doing this job by myself so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the informative video by the way.
Hello, I really like your thorough Prius videos. Thank You! Could you advise an issue with braking? It is what I am calling delayed brake release. After you take your foot off the brake they do not release, there is a two second delay before the wheel is freely rolling. 2007 Prius, 240k, already replaced the brake booster, no significant improvement and it is the front brakes.
This issue may be seized caliper pins or maybe the stroke simulator located at the top of the brake pedal. Did you ever find out what was causing your delayed brake release?
Great video. And like he said he advise buying a new one if possible. I did this repair and the used one I purchased on eBay was broke. Now I have to do this all over again.
Hey Vlad, I got the actuator code and I can hear the pump running about every 15 seconds with foot off the brake. Also there is a rapid clicking noise as the pump runs and it's coming from a block near the passenger rear wheel where all the brake lines are. Can't figure that out and I'd like to know more about it before I replace the actuator. Please advise
Very nice job on both; the video, & replacement actuator. Thx for sharing! 👍
Hi! I ordered one from eBay, but it still makes that dolphin 🐬 sound when you press the brakes, after I changed it, the lights on the dash (brake, Abs, Vsc and the other didn’t go out by themselves). There’s another video of another guy from City College that as soon as he swaps it, the lights go out by themselves . Question is: Did you lights when out automatically or not ?
More easier if you remove the wipers and the gutter
Thanks
Yes, easy to remove the gutter. First thing I thought at the beginning of the video. Otherwise a great video.
I’ve been told it needs to be reprogrammed to my car is that true and how do I go about doing that? If my mobile mechanic is able to what should I look for to make sure that he does the reprogramming properly.
Hi thank you so much for this incredible video. Can I ask you, if my my brake like is completely empty due to a caliper failure. Do you think it will refill just by pumping the pedal and bleeding the caliper, or by pumping fluid from the caliper, up to the master cylinder?
What are signs of a bad actuator? Or failing actuator? Did you end up getting the system bled with software at the end?
After installing abs booster you have programming with special computer? Because here mechanic's want charge extra fee for programming
why didn't you take off the windshield wiper and gutters? geez even when I change the plugs I take off the gutters
Great share, Thanks! Goin' to start on mine tomorrow using your video as a guide👍
Did take the pump accumulator apart to see what failed? I am curious if its water contamination of moving parts or electronics.
Did this a few months ago, this video definitely would have been my go to if it was around then 👍 Got lucky with my used ABS from a junker hopefully I'll have another car by the time it decides to die again.
How long did it take you Bethany? Recommendable?
Dang - you seriously did this on your own without a video? LOL you're a beast girl
@@HankHill1 I agree with you in that one. Even after watching this “simple” video I am still confused. It seems like it ain’t that easy to do it even yourself.
@@LUK77ACH hold up. It's absolutely possible I've done it twice now. Look around at other people's videos when you're bored as they might reveal more than another.
Bleeding the brakes is another thing and that I truly recommend letting the dealership do it since it's $150. Call the insurance company and let them tow it for free. But If you have Techstream then try it out yourself since you have nothing to lose.
I replaced the brake actuator on my 315000 mile prius with a used one from a car with 215000 miles on it all that work 2000 miles later and the car started doing somewhat the same thing with the exception the brakes work and are not hard to press. I'm hoping it's not the actuator again, maybe the distribution block, but i doubt i would be that lucky.
I thinking either it was already about to fail, or bleeding the brakes manually and not bleeding them with a computer.
Useful tip: you can use a 1/2 bolt to seal the brake hose from the reservoir.
It's the brake actuator. They fail around 200k miles
you deserve a prize.
Did you consider removing the wiper arms, motor, and tray? It takes less than 10 minutes to pull all of that, and it uncovers that area behind the inverter, directly over the booster.
With that all out of the way, you probably could have shifted the top brake line out of the way and lifted the booster nearly straight up.
I'll be swapping parts between 2 "dead" 06s sometime soon and will add replies to this comment on what might shorten the work time.
Remove the window guard and it allow you to get access to removing and installing those trouble bolts and removing the Actuator also. I am about take on this same Job after receiving a C1256, C1300, C1391. So ordering new brakes, rotor, caliper and a Actuator. Probably have someone bleed it all when I am done replacing all the parts and hope all the codes clean.
Hey dude
I have same problem with 09 toyota prius actuator. Did you have do some program on replacement ABS module?
I hope to hear from you real soon b4 I do replacement ABS unit ok
Thanks for your clear tutorial video.
Great video . Did you bleed front 2 wheels only or all 4 ? Going to do this job soon
Replacing bigger tyers on the rear of toyota prius can damage abs pump?
great vid. will be following your instructions to do mine soon. thanks!!
How did it go?
I just have a yellow brake warning light and brakes seem OK. What does that mean please?
Pretty cool, however I'm pretty sure the fluid you see coming out of the top of the ABS unis is coming FROM the line FROM the master cylinder rather than UP inside the ABS pump. At least, that's the way it appears to me as I do this. When the ABS is unpowered or even in FAILSAFE mode, it is actually closed (bypass mode) so the actuators inside aren't opening to allow fluid through. Not a bad idea though.
I hope you cleaned the leaves out of your gutter on the of the windshield. Will keep water and ice off of your windshield during heavy rain/snow.
What tool did you use to remove the brake lines from the unit? It looks like 8mm or 10mm box wrench, can you confirm?
How did you put brake lines back in place? I literally not able to put them back. They won’t screw in. Any advice?
Keep everything loose start to brake lines with your fingers once they're started go to another brake line wiggle and jiggle the ABS around takes time but don't tighten nothing down until you have them all started then bleed the unit like he shows in the video and tighten down the brake lines first then the rest of the bolts. The bolts that secure the ABS module bracket to the engine do those last start them but keep them real loose
For those who have replaced their ABS actuator with a used unit, how many of you also replaced the resistor? The actuator and resistor are supposedly "matched" to each other. The new units from Toyota come with the resistor. I contacted the salvage yard to inquire about the resistor in the same Prius the actuator came out of. The car had been crushed and recycled, so I will just keep my fingers crossed. This mystery part is located way under the dashboard and is a royal PIA, according to those who actually changed it.
I for one can tell you removing the resistor takes only 5 minutes with a small ratchet and 10mm. Second, you don't need to replace the resistor when using a used unit. Toyota sells the resistor to basically ensure equal life out of the abs system.
@@gr2262 So far, no trouble from the salvage unit. Hopefully, the unit will hold up for a couple of years (or longer) which will give me time to replace it with a new one or trade for a gen 4. Your comment relieves my anxiety concerning the original resistor not being changed. Thanks for your feedback and information. This is the only major part to have failed since I bought the car, so I would definitely own another one. I'm still on the original battery pack!
Did not needed a resistor replacement on my eBay used part, an 2 years after, still is working , trouble free .
EXelent editing and speaking style. Not fucking around and wasting time talking about crap thats not needed. Gread video I liked commented and subbed
It would be helpful if you could show how you organize all of the bolts to keep them so they do not get lost.
That would just be distracting Darlene. We like simple instructions, organize your bolts as you see fit according to your organization tolerance.
darlene acting like shes going to tackle this job... if you dont remember where the bolts go you prob shouldnt be doing this.
I use six magnetic trays from Harbor Freight and a 20 compartment storage bin. Putting bolts back into their respective holes also works well, but will take up more time to complete the job. The plastic clips and pins are easily replaced with new ones if they break. And make note of bolts with the same size but different lengths to make sure they go where they were removed. During disassembly, I tend to reinstall such bolts back into their holes where they belong so they will be there waiting upon reassembly. Some people used ziploc bags and label the location where the bolts came from, but my magnetic trays accomplish the same thing.
May I know where did you find the used actuator, mine is same car same model same year. I am having the same problem.
I got mine on ebay used. Just remember its very risky cause you just dont know what you will get.
Very helpful. Thank you.
I did this and it worked but I have no idea why my AC stopped working after. Compressor won't kick on
Great Video. I will use it to replace on my prius. Thanks!
Did you have to program it afterwards
Thanks bro! I'm about to do this to my New/old 2004 prius with way too many miles.
364,000
Definitely take the wipers off and that whole plastic piece makes job 1000 times easier.
Did you need tech stream at any point?
what problem did you have to replace the the ABS brake actuator. I have 2005 and my brake light come on and more light on dashboard. I have the problem when i drive for more the 45 minutes and is hot. How much you pay for you Abs Brake module and where. Thanks
It failed completely at random times which caused the vehicle to have very poor stoping power. The actuator i got off ebay for around $300.
Hi All and thanks Just Vlad for this video. I will help me a lot. I have to change my ABS Brake module on my Gen 2 Toyota Prius from 2006. I get the code error C1344. Is there anything to programm when you put a new ABS Brake Module? Or it is just "mechanical"? thanks a lot for your answer.
Sorry for my english, it's not my mother tongue.
Your English is just fine and more than adequate;-)
In my 2004 Prius no programming needed, just used X Tool scanner $800 about when I got it., when I had enough to buy 1 year after, but scanner is very useful many times over. Hope it helps. helps.
When you bled the brakes, did you bleed every valve from all four tires? Or just the front?
Probably just the front because is the closest to the actuator
I'm sure he mentioned all 4 tires as older cars, without ABS. I did it to mine and used it for 1 year,( parking break light on, vsc light on, abs light on but i was able to break in any traffic condition, not snow) until I boughtt a X tool scanner, it helped me do brake bleeding procedure by my self, no issues 1year later after scanner was used to complete bleeding procedure. Hope it helps.
What year is your prius and how many miles do you have on it ? Thanks ! Great video !
its a 2007 with 135k
I'm the 420th like! You're the Bob Ross of Mechanics! My nephew is in for some fun.
Awesome video! Thank you. Question. Could you technically just drive without ABS? Do you need ABS working to drive the car?
It will still drive but you loose brake boost. Its like driving a loaded dumptruck
@@cooper8318 Thanks Cooper!
In addition to not having anti skid braking, a failure of the abs module also disables traction control and more importantly, disables regenerative braking.
Regen braking to charge the battery is a large part of how the Prius obtains good gas mileage. With the ABS inoperative, expect mileage in the 25-30 mpg range instead of 45-50 mpg.
I'd like a tad more info on how to get the electrical connecting harnesses undone. 7:53 you cut away. I had a HELL of a time getting it off.
cant belive! u r genius
I here the clicking but no noise like its coming from your when i open door???
Are there any torque specification on the brake lines?
Can anyone point me to a part number that I need to order? I’ve seen a few different part numbers that look the same.
Where is a good site to get a new/used acutater?
Where is your workshop located
how much did you buy the abs?
Where did you get the actuator?
Help? I finished, but the same lights and beep come on. No sound from the brakes? Resister? missing plug?
Nah, just scanner bleeding brakes procedure. Or? Chance you got a bad abs actuator. Hope it was just bleeding brake?
is this prius still going?
How much is the part?
Where did you buy your used part?
YOU DISERVE A HUNDRED LIKES, i AM ONLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VIDEO
You unplug the batteries but what about the hybrid battery?
That’s the orange safety plug he pulled from the left side of the trunk.
Did replacing the abs module with a used one solved your issue?
Yes, working great so far with no issues. Its a bit risky buying used but could be the best option if you're willing to do it yourself.
@@JustVlads 0
Brother, you should have removed vipers and viper assembly to get easier access.
What tools did you use?
How many miles did this issue arise for everyone? Mine at 269K on a 2006
Mine at 328K on a 2015
at 121K on a 2008
Update: changed break pads and rotors and the lights went off.)))
215,000 on a 2007
Mine at 193,000
@Just Vlad, I changed my Actuator with success, the Prius starts up just fine, but now I am left with the TPS, VSC, ABS and brake light on. All these lights accompanied by a constant beep sound. The beep sound happens whenever I hit the brake or open the driver side door, my prius has been sitting in my garage for months with me not being able to figure this out. If anyone can help please do, I've looked all over the internet and cannot find a solution besides getting a mini vci from china and waiting 30 years for it to get here. thanks in advanced !
To be honest I dont really know what to tell you. It could be a number of things like air in the system or electrical issue or maybe the new actuator is faulty. When mine started acting up and beeping I just unplugged the beeper under the driver side footwell to keep using the car until i received the new actuator. These cars are complicated and I defiantly recommend getting a mini vci to at least know what the car trying to tell you. You might have to get someone in your area that knows prius to help you. Hope you can figure it out.
@@JustVlads thanks man
@@Dierect_ttv my car exactly doing same things like yours.i am thinking to replace my actuator but not sure is it worth it or I can make it
your advice very very important for me my time and money
can you make it and suggest me to replace by my self
thank you
You didn’t take early safety precautions in this video, plus your lucky cause your suppose to disconnect the auxiliary negative battery terminal first before removing the service plug
Good
Cuánto cobra por cambiarlo
"not worth much anyway"
*laughs in 2022 car/gas prices* 😂
leather gloves don't insulate you from electric current
If anyone needs this job done in socal, hit me up 😂
Dónde puedo comprar el módulo
Ebay
great vid, I'm really disappointed in toyota though, these should last the life of the car, even my super old BMW 3 series' have never had failures like this, even with 200k+ miles
And you skipped the money shot of pulling it out. The following video is rated PG for no money shot.
It’s not even worth it