That was a great video. If you only paid say 1k for the machine, spending another 1k to get a new machine is a decent deal. You can scrape in the X and Y if they’re out.
What you think might be an oil reservoir seems to me like it's a simple labyrinth seal to keep dirt out. Regarding oil lubrication, it'll probably work better than grease for all the reasons you've stated. However an NGLI? 000 or 00 might works as these greases are very thin.
The quill is well designed for grease, you want the oil in the grease to migrate downward into the bearings. With a pool of grease near the locknut, the oil will slowly seep out and into the bearings, if you used oil, it would quickly flow through and not lubricate the bearings sufficiently. Did you use standard tapered roller bearings instead of grade 3? Timken grade 3 are sold as individual cups and cones, so I was surprised to see the bearings packed with both in the same box. The machine shop was correct, there should be a slight interference fit of the inner rings and spindle. With the rings loose, they could spin and cause damage to the spindle. The way to repair it would have it chromed or metal sprayed and reground, but you would want to make sure the rest of the machine was in good shape before going to that expense. Since you have good runout now, leave it and run it until it becomes an issue. The pulley bearing was bad on mine as well, that one seems to be the one that fails the most of these mills. My spindle bearings looked good, but I bought a set of new bearings and will be replacing them before I get my spindle reground, it has .0015” runout and I want it better than that. If you need to get a spindle reground in the future, give Wells-Index a call, they build knee mills and offer regrinding services and would be a good resource. Have fun with your mill, I love mine!
--Agreed about the grease vs oil assessment. --I used NSK bearings. I found it hard to source Timkens. I started looking and realized they do sell cones and cups spearately. I made a go at picking up some NOS on ebay but couldn't find much beyond a pair of cups. Perhaps I wasn't clear at the end, but I did actually send the spindle out to be chromed and ground back to spec, then the internal BS9 taper was reground. It improved the runout quite a bit. I got it to about 6 tenths, and it went down to.00015" or better, depending on the collet you pick and how its clocked in the taper. --The shop that I used was called MZI Precision Spindle in Huntington Beach California. Ed Zitney explained that genuine Timkens are getting very tough to find in that grade 3 precision. Thanks for watching, hope it helps!
@ that’s funny, I wasn’t finding the NSK bearings available, but Timkens were in stock at the warehouse. I bought the cups on ebay for fairly cheap, and got the cones from Eastern Bearings for $242 each, that was a good discount from the website prices, and significantly cheaper than anywhere else I could find them. I must have missed the part about getting it chromed, glad you got that fixed, your spindle should last a lifetime now.
Have you considered using a Locktite product? They make a product for seating bearing races on shafts. If nothing else it would stabilize what you have.
I did consider that- but as it was already in expert hands at the spindle rebuilder, we decided to ‘take the high road’, so to speak. My regret is that I have no pics of the grinding & plating process. And since I didn’t do final assembly, I never got to see the final product before it disappeared inside the quill.
@@junkyard_kahrs This is a great video with good detail. I paid too much for my MV1, but it does work well enough. I do miss a nodding head and power down-feed, but the size is good for my tinkering. I might have tried a heavy knurl and grind that to fit the bearing races - maybe a touch of Loctite 660 as well.
This was very useful. I just got one of these machines and this will definitely be in my reference pile.
That was a great video. If you only paid say 1k for the machine, spending another 1k to get a new machine is a decent deal. You can scrape in the X and Y if they’re out.
What you think might be an oil reservoir seems to me like it's a simple labyrinth seal to keep dirt out. Regarding oil lubrication, it'll probably work better than grease for all the reasons you've stated. However an NGLI? 000 or 00 might works as these greases are very thin.
The quill is well designed for grease, you want the oil in the grease to migrate downward into the bearings. With a pool of grease near the locknut, the oil will slowly seep out and into the bearings, if you used oil, it would quickly flow through and not lubricate the bearings sufficiently.
Did you use standard tapered roller bearings instead of grade 3? Timken grade 3 are sold as individual cups and cones, so I was surprised to see the bearings packed with both in the same box. The machine shop was correct, there should be a slight interference fit of the inner rings and spindle. With the rings loose, they could spin and cause damage to the spindle. The way to repair it would have it chromed or metal sprayed and reground, but you would want to make sure the rest of the machine was in good shape before going to that expense. Since you have good runout now, leave it and run it until it becomes an issue.
The pulley bearing was bad on mine as well, that one seems to be the one that fails the most of these mills. My spindle bearings looked good, but I bought a set of new bearings and will be replacing them before I get my spindle reground, it has .0015” runout and I want it better than that. If you need to get a spindle reground in the future, give Wells-Index a call, they build knee mills and offer regrinding services and would be a good resource.
Have fun with your mill, I love mine!
--Agreed about the grease vs oil assessment.
--I used NSK bearings. I found it hard to source Timkens. I started looking and realized they do sell cones and cups spearately. I made a go at picking up some NOS on ebay but couldn't find much beyond a pair of cups. Perhaps I wasn't clear at the end, but I did actually send the spindle out to be chromed and ground back to spec, then the internal BS9 taper was reground. It improved the runout quite a bit. I got it to about 6 tenths, and it went down to.00015" or better, depending on the collet you pick and how its clocked in the taper.
--The shop that I used was called MZI Precision Spindle in Huntington Beach California. Ed Zitney explained that genuine Timkens are getting very tough to find in that grade 3 precision. Thanks for watching, hope it helps!
@ that’s funny, I wasn’t finding the NSK bearings available, but Timkens were in stock at the warehouse. I bought the cups on ebay for fairly cheap, and got the cones from Eastern Bearings for $242 each, that was a good discount from the website prices, and significantly cheaper than anywhere else I could find them. I must have missed the part about getting it chromed, glad you got that fixed, your spindle should last a lifetime now.
Have you considered using a Locktite product? They make a product for seating bearing races on shafts. If nothing else it would stabilize what you have.
I did consider that- but as it was already in expert hands at the spindle rebuilder, we decided to ‘take the high road’, so to speak. My regret is that I have no pics of the grinding & plating process. And since I didn’t do final assembly, I never got to see the final product before it disappeared inside the quill.
@@junkyard_kahrs This is a great video with good detail. I paid too much for my MV1, but it does work well enough. I do miss a nodding head and power down-feed, but the size is good for my tinkering. I might have tried a heavy knurl and grind that to fit the bearing races - maybe a touch of Loctite 660 as well.