Відео

Are you able to test another power supply? Could possibly be an amp issue.

Hi There, Yeah most companies will not supply individual parts as most are proprietary hardware. I tend to find some bits on ali express or alibaba or failing that purchasing a broken unit for donation parts. What part do you require specifically?

@@pjretroredux email correspondence with Fanatec reveals it’s likely my main PCBA that is faulty. (Causes the wheelbase to disconnect every few minutes and goes into rainbow LED updater mode) your video shows a fairly straightforward replacement that i can do myself likely

@@MydNitQ So ive scoured the interwebs for an hour now and the best your going to get is a 2nd hand unit from ebay but these are selling for stupid money. I would strip down your Unit and take out the pcb then go over every solder point on the back and re heat them with a small soldering iron, Then clean off with a small tooth brush and some isopropyl alcohol, put unit back together and see if this resolves the problem. (Ull be surprised how many pieces of hardware fail due to poor soldered joints) Good luck and hope this helps

Many thanks for watching

It's plastic. There's a metal shaft that goes into it, you can see him taking it off the box at 0:30. That shaft goes into the plastic and connects to a usb-c port at the bottom, there are 2 cuts on the plastic that align with 2 "wings" on the shaft. To lock it, you use the ring clamp that is also taken from the box at 0:55

@@VitorLeite83 tks Vitor. It’s a surprise a direct drive base with a plastic shaft…

when the unit is powered off you shouldn't have any resistance at all, It may have come loose on the supports. Also if it is powering off it sounds like a power supply issue. Hope you get back racing soon :)

@@pjretroredux Thx for your answer ! I have just dismantled the unit. After completely disconnecting the main board, the shaft can turn freely. As soon as the board touches the 3 terminals, I can feel some resistance. There must be a shortcut in the board (?), but I am not seeing any burnt components :(

@@emmanuelduros1732 Have you tried forcing a firmware upgrade? and or putting all settings back to default. Also is there any other software running that could be influencing your USB ports?

@@pjretroredux I can't put a new firmware because the base turns off immediately after turning on. I have the magnetic resistance when the base is fully disconnected (no usb/power cord). The resistance disappears when the main electric board is no longer connected via the 3 connectors to the motor

@@emmanuelduros1732 3 connectors? do you mean the usb module plug that goes centrally on the main PCB.

Thanks dude, glad you liked it

I've had this issue before and I had to completely remove all software to do with Fanatec then plug the device into a different USB port (preferably USB3) then install latest software and this allowed me to update my firmware. Hope this helps.

Do you mean the metal usb piece that connects the wheel adapter to the base?

​@@pjretroredux Yes. I wanted to see what it's like inside.

@@voamos 1 end has the standard USB-C connector and other is the fanatec circular 15 pin plug. there are 2 very tiny rivets or security screws on the USB-C end holding it in place. I'd expect there are just very small wires bridging the 2 types of connectors

​@@pjretroreduxIs it possible that there is a PCB or internal circuit? I know that at the base there is already a PCB inside the shaft where this male USB is connected.

@@voamos I would expect it is a simple wired connection to change data from the Fanatec plug into a standard USB C connector then all the function is controlled like you said witht he small pcb that sits inside the base unit

Yep, I was really surprised as past handhelds have been terrible. Many thanks for watching :)

I would expect there is a replacement part for it, then it just needs soldering in

@@pjretroredux yes i found the part that is needed; MUP-U23001-01, now all i have to find is someone with the skillset to fix it. So far i made some calls to local shops but no luck so far :( Im based in The Netherlands if anyone might read this. The pcb has no visible damage

cheers gaz, i do need to put on weight though lol

many thanks, do let me know if you have any info on the Brent leisure NeoGeo

no the unit is direct drive so can spin indefinitely but you can give it a software lock within the software

@@pjretroredux And how is the steering wheel USB connected to the base plate? If I turn the steering wheel 20x doesn't it break any internal wires?

​@@pjretroreduxIs there a sliding track for the contacts? I saw in the image that the connector with the wires is connected to the board.

​@@pjretroreduxThe wires of the piece that you are holding in the 21st minute of the video. That part rotates internally and the plate does not rotate.

​@@pjretroreduxAgora eu vi sobre o conector rotativo por indução. Sanou minha dúvida. Tbrigado.

Hey there, Might just need a good clean out with some Isopropyl alcohol and some ear buds. If the sliders sit for a while they can often lose connectivity.

yep definitely, But I couldn't find any in the house lol. Thx for watching

@@pjretroredux no problem thank for the easy advice on gettin the material for the bezel kit

Hi thanks for watching, The plastic surround clips back in but if you've pushed the pins back they might just need re-soldering back down again. Should be an easy fix :)

Depends where the break in the lead is, I assume you've tried a new USB-C from pc to unit?

@@pjretroredux yeah i have

@@DOIT4K3NWRT you might just have a broken wire within the base, take apart carefully and check (only if its out of warranty though) sometimes a wire will break from its solder point

@@pjretroredux ok i will check this out then thank you

Yep I was a little worried when I finally got it and opened it up. Was a risky purchase but it has been working great in my race rig and is one of my more popular videos :) BTW I love the Crysis avatar, Cry-engine is my fave engine to build worlds in. xx

Sounds like the PSU is not giving out enough current, Try a new mains lead to the brick if that doesn`t work I'd recommend a new PSU

@@pjretroredux i have the same problem as this mate describes. I have a 5nm unit, and a 8nm unit, it is something at the base side. I'm waiting on my support ticket :(

@@Krukikro sorry to hear that, I assume you've tried the normal re install and maybe plug into a different USB port?

Thanks bud and cheers again for the battery cover.

Cheers for letting me know, Warms my heart that I am helping :)

Hi there, Sorry the break failed. can you not reset back to default firmware? I am not very clued up on jail breaking the X, you would probably know more about it than I do :s

Normally it is just 1 tiny screw that I miss that causes a PCB to hold fast, Also some PCBs will hold on for dear life if a substance has been accidently poured over it. The glue they use on ribbons can stick to the inner side of the face plate also. I would try and lift the edges of the PCB in a rocking motion and at the same time keep an eye on the bend of the board. Hope this helps and cheers for watching. :)

After staring at this mixer for awhile, I decided to see if all the Deoxit I used had done anything. Got both L & R outputs, some pots had freed up and need to squirt a few more. Don't have Channel 3 but never did since I got more inputs than I'll ever need. What do you want for free, right? Thanks for the tips. @@pjretroredux

Don’t pry the board. Press on the pots. If the PCB is flexing anywhere that’s a fault waiting to happen. Slow even pressure is your best bet. Use a hairdryer to soften any sticky gunk.

Hi thanks for watching, Most LCD screens have a Fresnel layer in them but it can be a bit hit and miss as some TVs have a film layer to bounce the light forward. Best bet is to get a broken monitor. I used an old Dell LCD monitor in the video :)

@@pjretroredux only problem is I need to find a large monitor considering I have 50” screens for my sim lol. Tough to find an old monitor large enough.

@@enzeefpv9323 hehe yeah thats some size, Old TV will be the best bet

Cheers fella :)

No problems at all, It Is working perfectly in my race rig. You can watch it in action on my live feeds :)

@@pjretroredux Cool!

I don`t know a lot about the Behringer equipment but I think an E2 error is possibly a button stuck down when the unit is powered up. Might be worth taking lid off and giving all the sliders and buttons a nice isopropyl alcohol clean :). Hope this helps

Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching :)

Reading this, I'm so glad for you dude! Happy racing

how your fuse have broke?

@maddugqc6911 likely by doing its job to save something else - overloaded. A good fuse should blow when it's meant to. But the reason is always the same

@@maddugqc6911 sometimes a fuse will pop if the unit Is being used in long sessions or most likely a spike in the power

Many thanks for watching :)

I agree, the are just too wide, so I made my own with reflecting mirror tape, fixed on a this piece of wood at the right angles. It takes 10 minutes to DIY for 10€$ ua-cam.com/video/0hQuYzHc6fY/v-deo.html on the right side you can see it is thinner than the right side, as the 2 TV's have thinner borders.

No but I'm not sure if the Fresnel layer will work correctly at a horizontal. If you give it a go let me know the results :)

@@pjretroredux okay. Thanks for reply

is it the right way around? also did you cut the strips vertically? cheers for watching

@@pjretroredux yes i do but it doesn't reflex the image, i try with all angle, vertically, orizontally , turn it back and so on, maybe my old tv had a different tecnology?

it was a sony bravia tv

@@DjCamme98 that is possible can you give me the make and model and ill check? did you manage to get a fresnal layer from it?

@@pjretroredux i try to fid it tomorrow thank you! I simply opened the tv and use the layes that was behind screen, i try with all combination of the 3 layers that was there

Yep worked fine after a little charge, cheers for watching :)

Sadly no it was glued tight, also it had been smashed in transit when I bought it with the Console. So thought I would do a repair/Replace as it wasn`t working either. Cheers for watching

I have been using the AliExpress power supply and it has been absolutely fine, I will say replace the power lead that comes with it though as it is very thin and not fused.

Top, thanks@@pjretroredux

Hi from UK :) I assume you mean the RF module? If you do not have that module then at a guess your machine might be a later revision or most likely it has had a video mod done to it. Maybe converted to VGA or RGB?

Maybe because France used Secam as opposed to US and Japan's NTSC and UK's Pal?

@@The_Real_DCT I would expect most older models had a RF modulator for their region. If that is missing then it was likely he had RGB conversion or had Composite out with separate audio lines.

@pjretroredux As I said France used Secam standard, so none of their systems used RF as it wasn't compatible. Instead they used RGB or Scart.