1890's French Fashions // CATALOGING CATALOGS
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Today on cataloging catalogs we're jumping back in time several decades further than usual! I found some French fashion supplements from the late 1890's to flip through with you all. Though I do always forget how long these sorts of videos take to put together 😅
Scanned pages here: / 1890s-magazine-scans
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
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Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!
Please do more of these ! I love looking at those fashion magazines/plates with your expertise to point out interesting details.
Yes!
Not sure this is not going to be interesting for anyone... but in the nov 1897, where there was that weird sleeve pattern... turns out, what that was, was a pattern on how to turn the sleeve of the original dress (fig 6 - smaller image) to the remade dress next to it.
Both dress on that page and the one on the next page where dresses for younger girls at that "awkward" age from 12 to 15, where they are not children anymore, but should not look like young ladies yet.
So, they are transforming the dress as the girl grows... and so that sleeve got made smaller but they added a "jockey" (that's what the extra part on the top of the sleeve is called) made out of velvet. Tons of more stuff in there but that's what jumped out at me.
Thank you that is wonderful to know. I had been wondering what I could bribe my niece with to get her to try and translate some of these!
Bonjour from France Miss Bianca!!! what a lovely set of catalogues omg
Thank you for your translation, it seems my french skills have not let me down considering I understood everything just right! 😂😊 nice, 8 years worth of school teachings weren't wasted 😂😂
Well said. Here's the full text for anyone who wants to look into it further:
A travers la mode
Une dernière création
Le corset est la poésie du corsage.
On s’inclinera toujours devant le charme d’une taille souple, fine, ronde, pleine de grâce et d’abandon.
On peut avoir un joli minois, mais si la taille laisse à désirer on n’obtiendra jamais un brevet de belle femme.
Trop longtemps, la finesse de la taille a été obtenue aux dépens de la compression de l’estomac: de là les maladies sans nombre qui ont fait fulminer les médecins contre le corset.
Aujourd’hui il en est tout autrement, les principaux membres du corps médical faisant exécuter par Madame Desbruères [her address], un corset sans busc et à fenêtres, admirablement combiné pour proteger les organes de la digestion, de la rewspiration et de la circulation, en même temps qu’il moule le buste et lui donne d’exquises proportions.
C’est l’art venant au secours de la nature pour accuser harmonieusement les contours et répondre à toutes les exigences de la coquetterie la plus rafinée.
Yes! I would love to see you go through the Delineator! 😁
In regards to handling antique paper, you're absolutely right- clean, dry hands are the industry standard, as wearing gloves makes people accidentally apply more force and lose tactile feedback.
(Also, "Transformation d'une robe ancienne" means "transformation of an old dress"- presumably offering advice on how to upcycle older out of fashion clothes.)
And fabric can get stuck in the fibers you handle and rip it becouse you also not feel it's stuck
Hi, there seems like there aren't much new under the sun. Upcycling that seems like something we should all embrace, was done ~125 years ago too. Yours, Ann
I would love to see your antique jewelry! And its so fun to see these fashion plates.
I vote ‘yes’ for a Delineator video if you have the inclination!! :)
Yes! Yes! Yes! To Delineator. I love cataloguing catalogs
The time travel was delightful
Lobster embroidery pattern! I have never considered this potential before today.
Figure 32 at 21:49 translate to rushed collar bordered with fur with a fox head. My french is a lot better than my english but I would have lot of fun doing some translation for you, would also be a good learning exercice for me
17:43 transformation d'une robe ancienne means refashioning an old dress. It seems the dress in the front is what can be done to make an old dress (the one in the back) fit with the new standards in fashion.
Make do and mend! Very fun!
I love how it sounds so much more fancy, when you say it in French 😅
@@raraavis7782 Well the French version is quite fancy/old fashioned too "transformation of an ancient gown" would be a closer translation if you want to get the tone (yes, using the word "transformation" seems a bit odd to me in French as well and " robe ancienne" makes you think of a precious historic thing, nobody would use that phrase to talk about their old clothing now)
Catalog and catalogs is my number one favorite thing you do (although I've not seen the catalog that I sent you.. yet) other than your capsule collections. The circular boob trim made my entire day. I'm still chuckling 😂
17:08-17:32 Making do is accurate in itself. Lovely comment!
Thanks for this, love when you do catalog videos. These years are for me a confusing mix of the craziest fugly I've ever seen and images of design desire which I want to make immediately. Also, very good for us big boobed gals. I would love to see you pattern the deflated puff sleeve. Took a screenshot at 32:03 for that jumper/pinafore dress with a deep V to the waist "en drap castor." A costume dictionary says: "Beaver cloth: Heavyweight, woolen fabric with soft finish and thick nap used to make overcoats." Wiki says: "Castor was a cloth lighter than beaver cloth, but otherwise similar. It was produced by using fine wool." Gonna make a modern version.
" the craziest fugly" 🤣🤣🤣 Ms.Skirted Galleons, I'm so in love with your phrase, the craziest fugly, that I plan to steal from time to time. Just the thought of it makes me 🤣🤣🤣. I also took a screenshot, timestamp 32:03, of the jumper/pinafore dress with the deep V while watching hoping to duplicate the bodice. Love your taste.💜
@@beatricenowell8207 Steal away! Glad to make someone laugh.
Speaking of goth and wearing taxidermied animals on ones head and integrating your distain for what people have done to victorian houses in NY: Let's create taxidermied rat scenes on our hats! To call awareness to public health issues😂
Also : The lobster table runner with the lady without ANY hint of lobster next to it deserves a frame!
Thank you for sharing these catalogues with us. The details you pointed out, as well as the detail in the plates (you can really see the way the different fabrics drape and pucker!!) makes this series a true treat!
Hi, I translated for you the article about the corset. Keep in mind that I'm not a native speaker.
Through Fashion
A new creation
Corset is the poetry of corsetry. One will always bow down in front of a souple, narrow, round waist, full of grace and abandonment. One can have a pretty face but if the waist is left to be desired, one can never be called a beautiful woman.
For too long, the narrowness of the waist has been achieved at the expense of the compression of the stomach : from there come the multitude of ailements that have had the doctors fulminate against the corset. Today things are different, the main members of the medical profession having had Mme Desbruières (the lady's adress) make a buskless corset with windowes (couldnt find what that is), admirably combined to protect the organs for digestion, breathing, and (blood) circulation while moulding the bust and giving it exquisit proportions.
It is art coming to nature's rescue to harmoniously bring out shapes and meet all the requirements of the most refined coquetry.
Hope this helps
I would like to see you recreate some of those lapels and collars to change up some of your jackets or blouses. I enjoy seeing the old pattern books and sales catalogs.
the corset with laces at the front is an ad for a corset they said is "good for your health but still fashionnable"
Did someone say antique jewelry collection??! Yes, I would very much like to see that! Please and thank you.
I'd love a video on the American versions as well.
At 5:44 that bodice looks just like the purple dress during "dancing" and ",before the parade passed by" in the Hello Dolly film!!!!! I've heard people complain they NEVER would have worn that, and here we are!!!
So glad I’m not the only one who thought of Dolly’s dress here! And further on in the video you see some more of that diamond window pane pattern on dresses, so it was definitely a thing.
Oh my! The 1890's are my absolute favourite fashion period and these are just... DIVINE. Really enjoyed that whole romp through a dream wardrobe, please do more of the same. Your commentary and inspired descriptions are such fun, I hang onto every word. Oh, and when you do go time travelling back to that haberdashery, may I come with you, pretty please??
they would give you the patterns with those magazines. The crazy big patterns sheets or just a cut one, I have both from that era ish.
These are lovely. Have you tried using translate on your phone to see what is said? We live in the Netherlands and use it all the time.
Yes, #21 Tour de cou translates as “choker”. I can’t really see the details of what it’s made from.
Yes, it's a chocker, made from black silk chiffon (not sure of this term as I'm not an expert in fabric types but "mousseline" in French) with satin bows and black feathers
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻aaah that is lovely.😍 Hope for more 19th century cataloging to see on your channel👌🏻
I collect Edwardian belt buckles and wear them frequently! I would say I'd love to see more people collect them but I don't want to have to fight them on eBay 😂
It's me, I am fighting you on eBay 🤣 (jk, I only do "buy now", auctions only break my heart!)
@@TheClosetHistorian Understandable, nothing so heartbreaking as losing a piece by a single penny 😔
6:02 Love the shape of this bodice but more so: I need a fabric like this (in various colors, black and gold or green and gold would be perfect)
(apparently the color of the "toilette" (old-fashion word for "ensemble" in French) is light blue/lavender and is meant for a teen/young woman)
8:45 oh and this one in blue-green Scottish wool
5:13 First thing I noticed in seeing the thumbnail honestly: those almost bat-like sleeves 😮 I think there're ways to make them even more so and that would be perfect, if not less historically acurate 😅
They do look a bit Halloween-y, now that you mention it 👀
The jacket on the front of the magazine is classic. One could wear it today and it would look great!
Excellent inspiration for a new winter dress. Thanks a lot!
I would LOVE another video like this
YAY! I love these ❤️🔥
This video is so delicious, I have to save it for later 😩 please please do the Delineators as well
I've been wondering what to do with a roll of lovely grey plaid pure wool I got on sale at my local dead stock fabric shop and that last check ensemble with the check on the bias might just be it! Yes, to the other magazines, jewellery and trialling that sleeve. Also the book Mrs Pankhurst's Purple Feather is an excellent account of the issue with birds/feathers and the formation of what became the RSPB (British society for the protection of birds). The statistics are eye-watering - both for the birds and the women and children who processed them.
Canadian bilingual nerds in my household digging into the word origins for the French... Toilette... Archaic for set of clothes, becomes toile as in mockup version... And so goes the rabbit hole.
Thoroughly enjoyable and better with Earl Grey Tea and lemon than at midnight! I feel the urge to watch a period drama for sure... Thanks for all you do!🎉🎉🎉
Love seeing these fashion magazines. Fascinating collars, sleeves, cuffs, and accessories. Yes to the Delineator, your antique jewelry, and belt buckle collections. Thanks, Bianca.
I absolutely want to see you rifle through more! I love these videos (and you're doing such a service to scan these!) and I enjoy seeing more time periods! :D
Thank you for the excellent content. You never fail to impress! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻Of course, I would like to see your review of the Delineators as well as your antique jewelry collection. Who could turn either of those options down?😳🥺😳 I don't need to see the front to know I want the fitted Dracula Dream Cape, timestamp 27:55 December, 1897. It is spectacular! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐I'm all in if you can design something with that look. Also the jumper, pinafore, dress with the "V" to the waistline, timestamp 32:03, would be lovely in a modern version. I don't know what to call it exactly. No matter, thanks for the video. The information is great.
Omg! It is after midnight but I am coming back to this video tomorrow and your lantern bag!! Missed this amazing content. Look forward to a tea in the afternoon with this one! Thank you!🎉🎉
Oh boy, I'm glad I didn't have to learn how to live in clothes like those. We had to wear dresses, or skirts and blouses, when I was in Public School. They had rules on what we could wear under our dresses and skirts; and, rules on how we could sit, move, and stand in our dresses and skirts. Those can-can slips (made from nylon netting) that we wore under our big circle skirts (late 1950's) were hard to set down in (without the skirt coming up too high in front). Mom deflated mine by washing it. It is hard to believe what we were out through (just to be in Fashion). I even had to wear woven cotton, padded cone bras. Mom didn't get to choose, make, and buy my clothes for me, after I turned 16 years old. Please do go through the other pages.
yes please! I love you going through these magazines and catalogues 😊
Oh i have so many pages and catalogues from the Victorian era. I even organised them in archive binder for the loose pages (that's how i bought a lot on Ebay) and i can look at both side through the sleeves.❤
The big heavy (4"inch thick) "Victorian shopping Harrod's catalogue 1895" is a great reference book. Loaded with all the accesories, funeral service available, undergarments and with the price.
If you can find it, it's a mine of information.
Abut the cat thing at 21 minutes… Tour de cou en velours compose d’une ruche taille en forme bordee de fourrure et Gardi d’une tête avec noeud
Velvet neck tower composed of a hive in shape in the shape of bordee of fur and gardi with a head with knot
I would love to see the delineator in a video but don't over extend yourself - i know you have a lot going on.
I really enjoyed seeing all those magnificent outfits and hats omg. Cataloguing catalogs is a brilliant series!
'judging people in new York for what they've done to victorian houses' - i *shudder* to even think of the crimes you have witnessed 😭.
Im wondering if sometime in the future we may be seeing you in a certain dramatically beautiful cape 🤔
Definitely would love to see more of the 1890s stuff. X3 It's cool getting to see just how wild the Victorians were being with their style lines.
I have the craziest neck, LONG and slender. I could totally pull off one of those collars!
Very cool! 17:43 They're showing you how you can restyle an out of style dress. I spent a lot of time going through these types of materials when I was researching artists doing embroidery patterns. This made me look up what Russian green is since it appears a lot (vert russe). Seems like it was an oliveish green.
I can do this type of illustration. I kid you not. I like the bat wing shoulder caps on the drawing at the left. I did a copy of Alberto Vargass French fashion studies in his early career. I have not drawn in ink for some time but am confident I could again. Love these delineate and French illustrations.😊
I’m up for a part 2 😃
Any time you want to go through any of your collections. I’m there! I’m collecting vicariously through UA-cam lol! Such lovely things. The fact that you are also scanning things is wonderful. These sorts of things should be saved and enjoyed!
Thanks for the lovely video. I had planned to work and listen but it was a great excuse for a coffee break!
Very interesting. Yes please, more. 😍 I noticed that they don't have lobster cages. So they had gone out of fashion by 1897 then.
I love these videos! and of course THANK YOU for scanning them and uploading them. i have so many wonderful pins on pintrest because of you! And yes please for more of these, its always fun to watch. Also, thanks to everyone in the comments translating the french, its so fun to read!
Yum some of them had some really nice shapes to them, but some too much frills. I have been buying a woollen/lining fabric just lately and there were a couple of skirts that my fabric would be perfect for. I’m so glad I bought more than I really needed after all lol (I do that when I’m not sure what I want to make but fall in love with the fabric)
I will have to visit your Pinterest to have a closer look at the few outfits shown.
Thank you for sharing them with us.
I have some very old magazines from the 1940’s to 50’s they are packed away at this time, but they were of a time when they were all about the home sewer and knitter some of them still have the original pattern pieces that came with the magazine and they had never been pined to the fabric so I expect they had been copied onto old newspapers first. All of the text on them were not printed but rather were punched out of the paper.
You have inspired me to get them scanned and uploaded once I find them from amongst my many stored boxes. 🤗
I love the look of the shoulders / yokes from @25:25 , particularly #26 and #28. I think some combination of the two styles, the lapels from 28 in the places of the patterned yoke of 26 kind of thing, with some exaggerated points... would be very nice especially in a hallowe'en theme or something spider-web aesthetic. with some moths "caught" in the "web" for accent? 😂 Very interesting and informative video and it piqued my curiosity about the french since I can only half-understand what's written. So of course I sent this video to my (French-Canadian) mother. 😊 I'm sure she will enjoy this greatly as well!
please rest up your voice, looking forward to seeing your next videos once you've taking care of yourself!
Hi, So nice to spend some time looking through fashion magazines with you. As always it comes down to hats to begin with. These aren't my cup of warm beverage of choice, as I take issue with not going with material that otherwise would be waste. No endangered animals plase, but other decorations are bonkers enough to warrant a second look if I can be let in on your Pinterest this time. I have not succeeded thus far, but who knows maybe tis time is the one where I make I in there.
Thank you so much for the entertaining run through of what was fashionable in the late 1890's. Yours, Ann
"Transformation d'une robe ancienne" means "transformation of an antique dress", i.e. updating an older, out-of-date garment to current styles. And plumes are feathers.
I by no means speak French, but on the page with all the patterns on it It almost looks like they give numerical guidelines in the description for size reference ?
It just came to me that a separate collar with yoke, if not buttoned to the ouse, would make such high collars more comfortable to wear because could move with your head/neck 🤔
Love seeing the fashion plates. And so many on the pages of these periodicals! Yes to more and the jewelry too!❤❤
Some of the fashion is crazy, but I'm all for it but not the birds, thank you for sharing this. ❤
4:11 This one is already properly aesthetic, but what if those shoulders were bat wings or spider webs 😍
I would sell a kidney to have these, omg they are amazing! They are exactly the years I love the most.
So many collars! Collars on top of collars inside of collars!
Makes me gasp for breath!
Absolutely delicious! 😊 More please! What a delightful way to start my day 😍
Yes, more of these. Also, yes to jewelry collection. Yes, also to anything else you think we may or may not be interested in -- we are.
I like all the inventive ways they thought up to change an outfit with small bits of fabric!
Thank you for sharing I d love to see the other patterns 😁❤️🇬🇧
I'd like to see you make some of these patterns in here, as best you can. Even if just out of muslin.
Yay! Another Cataloging Catalogs video. I've missed these.
My mother and I always watch this series together, I would love to see the Delineator sometime as well!
This is absolutely delightful and inspiring. Thank you.
I love these! Yes, please do the Delineator, & I would love to see your antique jewelry.
Of course I welcome hanging out and hearing your thoughts on catalogues.
What a lovely video did you provide here. Thank you so much.
Cataloging catalogues is one of my favorite videos of yours to watch.
Imagine a bit more relaxed versión of those jackets in leather.
Please do more, would love to hear your comments on the Delineator catalogue.
Ooo la la 💖😍💖
Love that era, so yes would LOVE for you to go over the Delineator as well!
I would love to see you flip through the other magazine!
Yesssss this series is always a special occasion ! Thanks Professor B!!!
Love your explanations and descriptions!
“Let me know if you’d like to see-“. Yes please to all of it!
The lobster embroidery pattern❤🦞
I would love to see you go through the other fashion pages
Yes to the antique jewellery tour, please
Great video and please do replicate the ensemble!
I totally want to see you do the batwing dress.
YES to delin's PLS.
The French song, Alouette, is about pulling the feathers off of a little, gentle bird. Savages!
You gotta pluck it before you eat it!
Love these old fashions! ❤
Delicious Cape is life goals.
Ohhh ❤ Thanks to France 🇫🇷 🥰
I’d love to see you create in these styles. The hats especially seem very dramatic, and I’d be interested to see how your adaptations would make it look. As you say, delicious!
I’ve always been confused by the shapes of the fronts of the torsos depicted in these kinds of catalogues or magazines. It always seems slightly ballooned to me, disguising the bosom essentially. I know corsets achieved certain shapes, but it does seem so unnatural that I wonder how that shape is structured in the clothing. (I may be showing my ignorance of clothing construction here! 😂)
And yes, I would LOVE to see your collection of antique jewellery and buckles. It sounds heavenly.
I think a full ballgown is in order - with the Dracula cape at 28 minutes…
Shaping was achieved as much by padding than forming of the actual body through the corset.
In the case of the chest area not so much firm padding, as we use today, but floofy layers of fabric and lace, that would help fill out the outer layer and make it appear nice and rounded.
And, of course, fashion illustrations were as exaggerated back then, as photoshopped images are today.
It was the fashionable silhouette to try and achieve...but it's pretty safe to assume, that most women did not have a waist barely wider than their neck, for example, even corseted.
@@raraavis7782 very true! Thanks for taking the time to explain it.
Beautiful!
Please do more!
Eye candy 😍
YES!! MORE!!