Thank you so so much! Finally a tutorial that actually shows the behind the seens unlike those laika videos that briefly show the puppet making. Thank you. What do you need to knwo for ISO white balance fstop for stop motion? still somewhat confused on that. thank you
You can easily prevent the aperture flicker on any lens. Set the aperture to what ever you want. Then press the preview button on the front of your camera body. While holding the button, release the lens, and turn it a few degrees. Then the aperture is locked, and no electronics is connected between lens and body.
I came across this video and I must say it is packed with very precise detailed information !! A must for all beginning stop motion newcomers, you have covered things that others have glossed over in explanations and have left out . Please make more videos explaining the process and detailed info on Dragonframe software . You mentioned that you have to set the aperture on the camera as well as the Dragonframe software....does that apply to all other settings on the camera , shutter speed, ISO setting ?? Love this video !!
Thanks for this video. I have a question tho. In the DragonFrame software, I hit a wall when I want to liveview a scene in the animation section. At 7:50, I can see through the sensor, but I have two issues: - The live view is a bit low res in the animation. Is there a way to see the scene in high res ? It's bit tricky for focus rather than photo by photo ? - I noticed a big lighting difference between live view and shoot reference. Is there a way to fix that ? Thanks !
A little late to the party, but I've spent a while gathering all this info independently of anyone asking me to or through any immediate need for myself, so hopefully this saves someone some time: Live view is low (ish) res with most cameras, some are better than others but it's mainly to do with the camera you're able to get your hands on. The Canon EOS R/RP (with the stopmotion firmware) will give a lovely 1920x1280, but the older cameras like the 1000D will give 768 x 512, or mid-rangey stuff like the 60D gives 1056 x 704. All the info is on the supported camera page on the dragon frame website. But, in terms of focus, there's a focus check that enlarges a portion of the live view that most (at least Canon) cameras support (again, check the supported camera page) that you can now access in the animation workspace (used to have to switch to cinematography window). The lighting changing between the live view and reference shots could be to do with a couple of things, first being using a Nikon camera, some of them (or all of them?) don't have exposure simulation, so they're just going to automatically try and guess what the exposure is and there's nothing to do about it except from checking actual capture a lot. Next could be that exposure simulation is turned off, which is a case of turning back on (if the camera has it). Last would be using a manual lens on a Canon body (as recommended) where it's just guessing the exposure incorrectly because of the manual lens, 'Exposure Preview Offset' in the cinematography window can fix this or you can shell out on a little gadget from dragonframe called a correction cap that lets the software know how the shot should look. There we go, a day well well spent.
@@morganmanno thank you. It never too late to share some wise tips. I'm using a 5dmarkV and I can either use Tamron lens, or manual lenses like Samyang. I actually did not try to use for it since last year (and not the fault of Covid haha). Thanks for sharing, I spent a lot ot time trying to find this info online.
@@amathma God I'm late but yeah I found using a manual lens gave me a nearly unusable live view. I had to push the settings to like overexpose it to even see anything at all (it was almost pitch black at first). I had to keep taking test shots to get my lighting right. No one explained anything about using a manual lens, just told me I should use one, lol. But in general, you have to just trust that your actual photos will come out nice. The live view is never going to be as HD as the actual shots. It's always a bit grainy and whatnot but you get it right, it's obviously SUPER helpful
Oh yeah, you totally don't have to use the expensive ARRI lights. You can get a couple of something like this for around $10 each. If you want a specific look to your lighting, you might want to research/experiment with what type of bulb you use. Like fluorescent, halogen, incandescent, etc. Some bulbs mimic sunlight. You can also consider how bright you want the lights. Maybe buy a few different watts of bulbs to try and maybe use a few different in your final lighting. I'll do a video on lighting at some point. But look up "3 point lighting" Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light with 8.5 Inch Aluminum Reflector up to 150 Watt E26 (no Bulb Included) 6 Feet 18/2 SPT-2 Cord, 1-Pack, Silver and Black www.amazon.com/dp/B088WB5NWT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JX139J7H73WYGVRWT45T each
@@artschoolabridged9940 student loans is terrible.. I never went to film school nor do I want to go. I'm getting all my information from the internet for free lol
@@benjaminreyes3624 Exactly. That's why I'm doing this. No one needs to go pay that much for this info. And my honest advice, actually, is that in the animation/film industry your work is what they wanna see. Having a BFA from some school is nice, sure, but they want to see what you can do (and maybe who you know, unfortunately) more than anything else. So your "reel," which is a video sampling your work, is what you need to focus on. Watch other people's reels to get a sense for what to shoot for. I don't know if Dragonframe offers any smoothing. I don't think so? Is it kind of a blending of the frames that you mean? Stop mo is definitely choppy looking, especially if shooting in 15fps (though 24 is tough to pull off as a student or beginner or in a short amount of time). I'm doing a Intro to Making Stop Motion Puppets right now where I'll talk about build up method vs. cast, wire v. Ball and socket, tie downs, all that but I don't get much time to work on it so it could be a while til I post. Also some screenprinting stuff since that's my day job. Thank you so much, guys, for the feedback! It gets me motivated to make more videos. I lose momentum and motivation too easily
Thank you for this. I appreciated the level of detail.
Your channel is a gem for stop motion newcomers. Thanks for sharing all of this !
Thank you so so much! Finally a tutorial that actually shows the behind the seens unlike those laika videos that briefly show the puppet making. Thank you. What do you need to knwo for ISO white balance fstop for stop motion? still somewhat confused on that. thank you
Best tour ! Amazing tools and setup! Wishing you all the best !!
is there any way to have the camera screen still show aswell as on the pc?
hello
Dizzy Space! My respects.
You can easily prevent the aperture flicker on any lens. Set the aperture to what ever you want. Then press the preview button on the front of your camera body. While holding the button, release the lens, and turn it a few degrees. Then the aperture is locked, and no electronics is connected between lens and body.
This has been really helpful! Thank you so much for sharing!
I came across this video and I must say it is packed with very precise detailed information !! A must for all beginning stop motion newcomers, you have covered things that others have glossed over in explanations and have left out . Please make more videos explaining the process and detailed info on Dragonframe software . You mentioned that you have to set the aperture on the camera as well as the Dragonframe software....does that apply to all other settings on the camera , shutter speed, ISO setting ?? Love this video !!
This is so rad, thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
It was an amazing Journey, excellent lesson. Thank u so much
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! 👍
C stand is a century stand. The stand of 100 uses, hence century. A Combo stand is generally used for lights.
this was a very good video
Thanks for this video. I have a question tho. In the DragonFrame software, I hit a wall when I want to liveview a scene in the animation section. At 7:50, I can see through the sensor, but I have two issues:
- The live view is a bit low res in the animation. Is there a way to see the scene in high res ? It's bit tricky for focus rather than photo by photo ?
- I noticed a big lighting difference between live view and shoot reference. Is there a way to fix that ?
Thanks !
A little late to the party, but I've spent a while gathering all this info independently of anyone asking me to or through any immediate need for myself, so hopefully this saves someone some time: Live view is low (ish) res with most cameras, some are better than others but it's mainly to do with the camera you're able to get your hands on. The Canon EOS R/RP (with the stopmotion firmware) will give a lovely 1920x1280, but the older cameras like the 1000D will give 768 x 512, or mid-rangey stuff like the 60D gives 1056 x 704. All the info is on the supported camera page on the dragon frame website. But, in terms of focus, there's a focus check that enlarges a portion of the live view that most (at least Canon) cameras support (again, check the supported camera page) that you can now access in the animation workspace (used to have to switch to cinematography window). The lighting changing between the live view and reference shots could be to do with a couple of things, first being using a Nikon camera, some of them (or all of them?) don't have exposure simulation, so they're just going to automatically try and guess what the exposure is and there's nothing to do about it except from checking actual capture a lot. Next could be that exposure simulation is turned off, which is a case of turning back on (if the camera has it). Last would be using a manual lens on a Canon body (as recommended) where it's just guessing the exposure incorrectly because of the manual lens, 'Exposure Preview Offset' in the cinematography window can fix this or you can shell out on a little gadget from dragonframe called a correction cap that lets the software know how the shot should look. There we go, a day well well spent.
@@morganmanno thank you. It never too late to share some wise tips. I'm using a 5dmarkV and I can either use Tamron lens, or manual lenses like Samyang. I actually did not try to use for it since last year (and not the fault of Covid haha). Thanks for sharing, I spent a lot ot time trying to find this info online.
@@amathma God I'm late but yeah I found using a manual lens gave me a nearly unusable live view. I had to push the settings to like overexpose it to even see anything at all (it was almost pitch black at first). I had to keep taking test shots to get my lighting right. No one explained anything about using a manual lens, just told me I should use one, lol.
But in general, you have to just trust that your actual photos will come out nice. The live view is never going to be as HD as the actual shots. It's always a bit grainy and whatnot but you get it right, it's obviously SUPER helpful
This is awesome, thank you so much for sharing with us!
I like stop motion and not have materiel haw i Can start ?
does anyone know how to capture frames faster. I use a dslr and it takes about 2 seconds to capture I would like to get half a second if possible.
❤❤❤
Can you recomend some cheaper than Arri 150?
Oh yeah, you totally don't have to use the expensive ARRI lights. You can get a couple of something like this for around $10 each. If you want a specific look to your lighting, you might want to research/experiment with what type of bulb you use. Like fluorescent, halogen, incandescent, etc. Some bulbs mimic sunlight. You can also consider how bright you want the lights. Maybe buy a few different watts of bulbs to try and maybe use a few different in your final lighting. I'll do a video on lighting at some point. But look up "3 point lighting"
Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light with 8.5 Inch Aluminum Reflector up to 150 Watt E26 (no Bulb Included) 6 Feet 18/2 SPT-2 Cord, 1-Pack, Silver and Black www.amazon.com/dp/B088WB5NWT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JX139J7H73WYGVRWT45T each
Home Depot and Lowes definitely have these lights in store. Not sure if somewhere like Walmart or Target would have it in the store or just online.
👍👍👍
Now i'm your student
The advice you're giving is worth 250,000$ at least
Does dragon frame smooth out the stop motion well? I heard blender is a great tool to use
Four years of grad school for stop motion cost only a little less than that, haha. Wanna help me pay off my student loans? Haha jk
@@artschoolabridged9940 student loans is terrible.. I never went to film school nor do I want to go. I'm getting all my information from the internet for free lol
@@benjaminreyes3624 Exactly. That's why I'm doing this. No one needs to go pay that much for this info. And my honest advice, actually, is that in the animation/film industry your work is what they wanna see. Having a BFA from some school is nice, sure, but they want to see what you can do (and maybe who you know, unfortunately) more than anything else. So your "reel," which is a video sampling your work, is what you need to focus on. Watch other people's reels to get a sense for what to shoot for.
I don't know if Dragonframe offers any smoothing. I don't think so? Is it kind of a blending of the frames that you mean? Stop mo is definitely choppy looking, especially if shooting in 15fps (though 24 is tough to pull off as a student or beginner or in a short amount of time).
I'm doing a Intro to Making Stop Motion Puppets right now where I'll talk about build up method vs. cast, wire v. Ball and socket, tie downs, all that but I don't get much time to work on it so it could be a while til I post.
Also some screenprinting stuff since that's my day job.
Thank you so much, guys, for the feedback! It gets me motivated to make more videos. I lose momentum and motivation too easily
@@artschoolabridged9940 incredible response and yeah it's frame blender is what I mean. It makes stop motion smooth ☺️