Upgrade your Duramax oil cooler! Better cooling means longer lasting oil.
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- Do you tow with your 2001-2007 and 2011-2019 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 6.6L Duramax? You need the new Banks Oil Cooler Upgrade kit. The system improves heat reduction 31% or more on 6.6L Duramax engines. The older the truck, the greater the gain. Ready for pressure or temperature sensor. Includes all necessary hardware and oil filter.
A detailed look at the generations of Duramax oil coolers
• UNBOXING a 2020 Durama...
Order your Duramax Oil Cooler Upgrade
bnks.pw/oilcooler
#mechanicalengineering #duramax #diesel - Авто та транспорт
I very often developed a heart for heavy-duty trucks. Most likely, I'd be spending quite a bit of money on Banks upgrades if I lived in the USA. Sadly living in the UK, for practical reasons, I can only have a van.
Move to the USA
I have the kit and love it thank you Mr Banks
Got mine on my 2007 LBZ and I love it!! Thank you!!
does the stock cooling have any issues with the added heat? also does it help increase the stock idle pressure at all?
@@BrittanyMartin917 I upgraded my radiator to a 4 core, and to accommodate the bigger radiator I also added the Banks intercooler which has a huge advantage of pass through air to get more air flow to that larger radiator so the excess heat is easily dissipated by upgrading both. I’ve recently built the LBZ with the larger PPE manifolds and up pipes along with a 64 mm turbo to further bring the heat down with more flow. Tows without blinking an eye at temps across the board. There’s been a ton of upgrades, intake hot and cold side, head studs, S&S torque injectors, S&S 10 mil cp3, and built Allison to 800hp added a PPE trans cooler.
@@BrittanyMartin917 stock oil pressure at idle is unchanged. But because the oil runs cooler the oil pressure is about 5-8 psi higher for longer and harder towing. I added 185 degree thermostats, but I live in the desert here in Nevada and Utah so if you live up north I’d recommend staying with stock 194 degree thermostats because this oil cooler works as advertised. Also you have to use 2020 L5P oil filters which are noticeably smaller that the LBZ filters.
@@FlatPlaneCranky what radiator do you have? i do know that the filters are smaller. i don't know if ill go that extensive with mods but only time will tell. i live in texas and when i bought it i think it has a 175/210 thermostats.
@@BrittanyMartin917 AFE BladeRunner. But Mishimoto builds an excellent radiator also.
I have an 02 looks like I’ll be doing that next year I’m here.!
Let us know when you're ready!
I have this kit on my 2017 L5P and tow heavy. It reduced the Engine Oil Temperature by 30 degrees. Works Great and I would recommend this kit to all Duramax Owners.
Thank you. I need to get that for my Duramax trucks (3)
$550,well i wish i could ,thanks banks, ive been good...
Cooler is always better but what about the certain systems that need to maintain a specific temp. Even the oil has to maintain a certain temp to even function properly
True. I don't know about this setup specifically, but in general, these liquid cooled oil filter housings use the hot engine coolant to cool the oil, so they actually heat up the oil faster from a cold start and help maintain a more stable oil temperature. If hot coolant is run through the cooler, it can't overcool the oil since the lowest temperature it would be capable of cooling the oil to is the temperature of the coolest, which is controlled by the thermostat. If the cold return coolant is run through the cooler and there's no thermostat controlling oil flow through the cooler, then I could see it possibly overcooling the oil under certain conditions. I have only seen one vehicle set up from the factory to run cold coolant through the oil cooler though and that's my friend's 1994 Ford Bronco.
@@averyalexander2303 right...makes sense🧐
This doesn't provide nearly enough cooling to keep the oil at extremely low temps.
@@garymaschner It's not about how much heat the cooler is capable of dissipating, but the fact that these oil to coolant heat exchangers generally use the hot coolant to cool (and heat) the oil and it's impossible to overcool the oil with 180+ degree coolant. This style of cooler can dissipate quite a bit of heat if properly sized and has the benefit of helping to warm up the oil faster from a cold start and keep it warm in very cold weather. I don't know of any OEM oil cooler setup that's capable of overcooling the oil since vehicles must be designed to function properly and last a long time in extremely cold climates like northern Canada.
@@averyalexander2303 your comment stated "it could possibly over cool the oil". Maybe I'm misunderstanding but your comments contradict themselves. Don't over think this. It simply provides better oil cooling. It won't run too cold unless the thermostats are stuck open. If that happens on this engine coolant temp will generally run in the 160 degree range and oil is always hotter. I've seen it first hand. If this doesn't make sense I'll send you a video of my oil and coolant temp in 40 degree weather.
So is the only benefit longer lasting oil for a stock motor?
It will only help your engine last if your oil temps are getting higher than 230-ish regularity, especially if you run extended drain intervals. If your oil temps are already nominally below 230, there’s no point
@@mrobinson4210 that's what I figured. Don't think my oil temps ever got remotely that high even pulling my big camper up the mountains
@@kylevanwinkle2081 you'd be surprised how high oil temp gets on these engines. I thought the same thing until I added a temp sensor and saw 270 towing 9k, mid 80deg day in my LLY.
Question for Mr Banks or any turbo expert in the comments!
I hate the whistling noise turbos make. It gives me pounding headaches. What are ways I can eliminate or quiet down the whistle without making the engine sound like a vacuum cleaner instead?
I feel the same, maybe why my cars are all N/A.
There are quite a few guides on minimising the noise on-line, checked them out a while back when I was considering forced induction - should also help with superchargers.
I assume you drive a duramax? If so what year and what's done to the exhaust?
@@garymaschner I dont drive a truck atm. But I plan to at some point and I dont fucking want it to sound like a damn jet engine.
@@theq4602 gotcha. Most trucks 08 and newer in stock form are very quiet, and you can't even hear the turbo in some of them. On trucks pre-dpf like 07 and older, they're still pretty quiet unless you open up the intake and exhaust.
Don't have a durmax but in my 2014 buick regal GS they put an intake muffler lol so it doesn't have the turbo sound but if you remove it you get that good old turbo sound.
Yawn, when are we getting the Derringer for the 6.7L Cummins?
@banks any work being done for ecodiesel cooling? Gladiator/ram?
Have you found any issue with engine temps due to the increased heat rejection into the coolant? I know part of 2020+ L5P was a bigger radiator as well
I have it on my LLY and it had a minor impact on my coolant temp. I monitored coolant and oil temp before and after the install towing and it's definitely worth it.
So, why not just plumb in an external oil cooler of whatever size to aid cooling? There’s an external trans cooler, I see no reason an external oil cooler wouldn’t accomplish the same thing.
This is cheaper and easier.
Are you all going to make /remake Detroit Diesel v8
No
will the kit fit the 6.2 diesel and the 4.3 V6 gas?
Is this a real question or sarcastic one? Either way the answer is no. You will need an aftermarket remote mount oil cooler for those engines.
Ordered it 5 days ago and still have not shipped. Hopefully it ships. I am without a truck right now
Banks it's going on 2 weeks right now since I ordered this cooler. Why didn't you say it was backorder? It's winter and my truck has been sitting for 2 weeks! I am not happy
Please accept our apologies for the delay. We did not anticipate the overwhelming demand. Please text us Monday morning for an update on shipping status. (800) 601-8072
What about the oil filter? Will this mean if I install this kit on my 2019 I will have to use the smaller oil filter the newer trucks have?
My ‘97 12 valve had a dual oil filter bypass. So I’m assuming if you were really concerned about the filtration you can relocate it on the frame under the passenger side door.
Yes you will have to use a 2020+ filter
Gale, that's cold, u can't just tell me that and stop, I wanna know more..
Cmon man
"Due to Enhanced EGR cooling, Kit does not fit late 2007.5-10 LMM Duramax Engines" well that sucks balls
Just gonna say it….most intelligent people don’t care about anything Duramax…we’re smarter than that.
Most intelligent people put a space between a period at the end of a sentence and the first letter in the beginning of the next one. They also capitalize the first letter at the beginning of one. You failed twice, keep up the great work! 👍
@@garymaschner
Thanks for that. You just showed your simplistic mentality, and what a failed attempt at sounding intelligent looks like. When your comeback is nothing but picking out grammatical opinion, not even error, it’s very obvious what was said bothers you,, while also indicating you unintelligently love your GM products! Thanks for demonstrating the usual GM owner’s mentality! 👍🏻
@@shanebowersox4415
Neither of your comments add any value to what they are showing in this video so why did you watch the video, why did you even comment? Out of curiosity what do you drive?
Claiming GM owners aren't as smart as you and simple minded would be like me telling you all pitbulls are bad and should be put to sleep. Now that would be an uneducated statement, can we agree on that? That mindset is the same as grouping all GM owners into one category, am I wrong? Have a great weekend!
@@garymaschner
Comments don’t have to add value to the video. They’re just comments, which are mostly opinions anyway.
I agree with the pit bull scenario as I have owned many different breeds and now have 2 of them and will never own any other breed. Although I would never think ALL owners of other breeds are dumb. Dogs and vehicles are completely different. You can teach/change behavior but you can’t do the same with broken mechanical parts.
Kind of the same for my choice of vehicles. I’ve owned multiple Dodge,GM and Fords in my lifetime and now only drive Ford. By the way, I’m 50 years old. This is all from my own personal experiences (which also include various automotive completion venues), not because my grandpa or dad told me they’re the best and will disown me for driving anything different. My Fords have been the only brand to ever handle my abuse and never let me down. Latest is my 22 F450.
No, I know not all GM owners are the same. This is why I said “most” instead of leaving that word out in my original comment. One thing I’ve seen way too often in my life is how 99% of the GM crowd won’t even have an intelligent conversation with you about anything except how GM is god. Then if you question/debate that at all, they get pissed off and act like children. Especially when I say that ONE of the reasons I won’t drive a GM is because I’m not giving a penny to the brand that never paid back (stole) $10 billion of our tax payer money. And as a fact, I wouldn’t be driving Ford now if they did the same, no matter how much I like them. Even so, this is still not the main factor for my decision, only a contributor.
Again, it just seems to be something about the GM crowd. Even the Dodge crowd is only about 50-60% this way from what I’ve experienced. This is mostly what my original comment was about.
So ... I thought the first comment was quietly humorous without any initial declaration of Brand loyalty.
Then, I thought the second comment about the first comment was pretty good, until I read the third comment after which I had to read the second comment again to see if I could have picked up all of the (apparent) grammatical "faux-pas" in that second comment. This reminded me a bit of one of my High School English teachers who was way over my head with pedantic comments (that he thought were didactic) about my essays.
Now then, back to the comments. I was also surprised that the third comment picked a Brand to fight about without knowing precisely that the second comment (picking on the first comment) could have also been from a Ram owner having fun. And it got a little more serious in tone, which increased the drama by a factor of two and made me want to read more. [Editorial note: one should only ever rarely start a sentence with the word "And" or so my teacher said. The previous sentence was not one of those rare moments.]
The fourth comment brought in a reference to an animal that is greatly polarizing amoung dog lovers. This is a cunning debating skill often used in an attempt to flummox the opponent in the debate, but one which would have surely brought an objection from the moderator. Not fair, perhaps (but you can't unhear it, as they say). And then, the owner of the fourth comment leaves the comment forum (completely) with two very strong questions, BEGGING a strong response! Touche!
In Scene 5 of Act 1 the Discussion Starter has no choice but to clean up the mess, agree a bit on the dog argument to tie that into the main argument, referencing personal experience as a justfication for opinions, and combining age with a long post-amble as a solid grounding point to end the discussion. Not bad, but a bit too long considering his opponent has already departed the conversation via "stage left".
My-Oh-My ... but what a good couple of thrusts from the very sharp 'epee' of each contestant.
I've just bought a new 2022 diesel (my third, but first in a truck) have only discovered Gale Banks recently, and hope I will unearth more enjoyable "Comment Wrastlng" in other Banks' videos. What fun !!!
What do I know though? I almost failed Grade 12 English 50 some odd years ago, but I digress ...
So these don’t fit the LMM even if I got it deleted?
Doh. I have a 2001 LB7 Duramax. Looks like I'm going to be busting into the piggy bank because this is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you for putting this together! 🍻
@@alexmitilica99
That's the smart option if you have the skills and know exactly what you need, but there are also many who are happy to pay extra and get everything as a 'kit' - do whatever is the best fit for you 😎👍
If I were running the engine, I'd definitely be looking an a large external oil>air, with a thermostat.
@@gordowg1wg145 The smart option is Trump and the smart people know what this country needs....also many many many great reasons to love America and Trump many many many great reasons.
@@AUMINER1
Well, you're half right - there are many reasons to love the country - and the opposite for trump - you REALLY need to do a bit of investigation into why he's so widely despised.
Oh, and while you're checking the tax breaks he gave himself, check out what he did to the deficit.
I don't have a duramax, probably never will but that is really cool!
Unless they've changed something since the last time I looked they don't recommend DIYs doing this install due to complexity. The instructions are pretty thorough, but it's not a quick swap, unfortunately. Great idea and great option though for those that can afford it.
A big ol meteorite 😂😂 made me laugh
8👍's Mr POWER thanks for sharing
Thank you Mr. Banks
I did not know this cooler was available for my LBZ. Another item to add to my want list.
Right on
I'll take any tip you'll give me to give the 16 LML just more life w/ the cost of current trucks today.......Thanks!
please make this for the 11-16 powerstroke
The primary reason for having the oil>coolant "coolers" seems to be taking advantage of coolant>oil heat transfer when warming the engine up from a cold start?
For those who do long hauls, live in warmer climes, or otherwise have little need for the faster oil warrm up (if it's that much of a problem, a plug-in sump heater may be a good idea?), have you considered some form of kit to remove that potential failure point (common in automotive, at least) in favour of a external oil>air cooler, maybe with a thermostat?
After all, while liquid>liquid is more efficient, there still needs to be a Δ t and if the coolant is already at 200+f, then it's impossible to cool the oil below that.
Different topic, but have you, or others that may read this, done any investigation into head-work to improve efficiency and breathing? I have in mind specifically the use of multiple angle valve/seat work with thinner seating?
The proof is in the pudding. These oil coolers keep oil temps in the Goldilocks range of 190-230
Will it work with the caterpillar oil filter adapter from MDDP?
It seems to be oem parts that replace the original, they should both be compatible.