Hello I just recieved my pops 4320 and I plan on restoring it. I purchased a book on the 4320 and it says "with the engine at normal operating temps, correct reulated pressure should be 40-50 psi at 1900 rpm." Then it goes into detail of adjusting the pressure at the oil pressure regulator valve. I will be posting content soon of my 4320. I have learned alot about them so far from your videos. Thank you for the info
There is a worse thing Wes. One of the guys in the shop took the speedo out of this old mercedes. My boss told me to drive it in and do some other work on it. So i started it up and started to drive it into the shop. I had forgotten that it had a mechanical oil gauge in the speedo. This was a bad thing to forget LOL as the motor was hot and i got a lap full of hot oil. You would be surprised at how fast you can turn the engine off apply the park brake and get out of the car while grabbing your overalls to pull them away from your junk which was being fried at the time. It took a second or so to work out where the oil was coming from too. Luckily no permanent damage was done. We live and learn LOL
I love how you put it about the diesel techs just out of school. I'm 28 and have been told about the leather trick many years ago by one of my mentors. I'm a diesel mechanic and a operator for a small outfit so I have to do it all. Love to watch your videos.
Love your videos. My diesel instructor years ago told me you should have 10 lbs oil pressure per 1000 rpm. So, 10 lb oil pressure at idle is sufficient. and from what I saw, the approximate 35 to 40 lbs pressure you had was great.
I think you'll find that your mechanical oil pressure gauge needs to be stationary. Mount it anywhere on the dash or cowling and use your copper tubing if your gonna put that tractor to work. I put them on everything with idiot lights. We changed rod and main bearings in our 4020 while planting beans in the field back about 1970. I don't think we missed a whole day planting. My uncle claims someone put sugar in the tractor's fuel causing it to spin a bearing. Have enjoyed all your videos and look forward to the next.
OLF, the bearing trick i have done a few times, once on a 2,25 petrol and once on a 2,5TD. Both had big end bearing issues and it got us home again after 509 miles of motorway, it helps when you got a low rev engine 5000rpm max. I driven through the UK without brakes, at a parts centre we tied a spanner on the moving end of the double wheel cylinder and used a pan sponge to hone it. It got us home and some.
Good, old school repair work. Forget the keyboard commandos. Years ago I used aluminum foil to shim up some worn bearings. Yes, I was flat broke. Worked like a charm.
I'm a diesel mechanic student, but forget the text book I believe In you gotta do what you gotta do, but working on equipment my whole life thats just what i did. You did a dam good job Wes love watching your videos. Wish you were one of my instructors! Haha keep the videos coming
Sounds good! My grandfather used the leather trick on a old R model Moline tractor he had a rod start knocking while he was trying to finish bailing hay. He put leather in it to get by till he had time to go get a set of bearings.
It's good that you installed an oil pressure gauge to keep track of the eng oil pressure. It points out an item of concern however, and that is the excessively slow rate that it builds oil pressure upon startup. I recommend a prelube pump (and yes I realize that this costs you time and money) in the interest of extending the longevity of a vital piece of equipment that you rely on. You could adapt one from the racing/ industrial world there are many different types/styles to chose from.
Wes you are right with what you are doing I have been changing rod and mains on truck engines for years. I just love the new age mechanics. If you get my drift
Spent most of my life in a job shop situation, everything from engine repair to fabrication to machine work, you have to do what needs doing with the least amount of fuss and keeping an eye on the bottom line.Locktite on bearings, have done it for years and don't ever remember a failure. An oil gauge that turns with the steering wheel, a little ifie.
One thing to always look for when getting gauges, make sure to get ones with metal needles. The cheaper ones with plastic ones normally warp when the are exposed to a lot of sunlight. Tractors sitting out in the "big barn" get more than their fair share.
wes maybe run that oil pressure pipe through some hose pipe then fill it with expanding foam that will help stop the pipe rubbing.. great job as always..
Wes don't worry about the tubing it is Nylon.. The last job I had we used a lot of I/4 in in very Hot enclosed areas, surrounded with steam lines never saw a piece deteriorate to where it couldn't hold 100psi air pressure. . I worked there ten Years. A major power transmission belt Manufactor. I also have a 4010 that has the rod bearings shimmed to get the proper" oil clarance"
I don't know why anyone would have heartburn over your repair. The do the same lower end rebuild on semi engines every day. They can do a lower end (Rods and Mains) rebuild in one day at any semi repair shop. They can last several hundred thousand miles.
So my oliver white 1255 I started it up and had no oil pressure at all and so I put a new gauge on and it still didn't work and I cleaned the line and started it without anything on the hose and no oil came out do u have any advice?
I told my son, who is going to be graduating as a diesel tech this spring, about your fix and he thought it was great! Now he says he would never get away with it at work (for the city), but if it were for himself or my stuff he would definitely give it a try.
Good idea to add that pressure gauge. However, I have a feeling in a future video we are going to see you relocate that gauge and use the copper line kit. I bet that in the back of your mind that plastic tubing is bugging you. Thanks for the videos.
Wes we did a rebuild on 440 Dodge for my 84 W-250. We used a a brush hone on the cylinders with oversize ring cut to fit, The rods and mains we went back with standards units. Would it have been better to pay a machine shop to machine everything, sure would, but I couldn't afford it.
A suggestion; Split a piece of metal tube w/ a slightly larger ID than the steering shaft then clamp it over the shaft then mount the oil guage to the tube. That way the pressure feed tube will not have to flex or stretch at you sterr the tractor.
I was thinking the same thing, if it has to be mounted on the steering shaft, it should no move at all. A piece of larger conduit over the shaft should do it. The rubber at the base should hold t he outer pipe fine. But I liked his other idea, mount it on top of the instrument panel. If it was me, I'd move the idiot lights out of the way and mount it flush in the dash.
I'd have cut a 2" diameter hole using a holesaw somewhere on the 4320's tin and hard mounted the gauge using the copper tubing. (My JD GT262's Hobbs hour meter is actually installed under the tilt hood in the side of the steering console support.
If you pull the wire off the oil pressure sender and ground it, the light should come on. If it does you problem is the sender and if not its in the wiring to the socket or before.
Hi Wes, I'm a huge fan of what ya do. I really think you should put a 4430 turbo and exhaust manifold on that 4320. I think that'd be cooler than hell. I always wanted to do it to a 4020 powershift. We got a 4850 with the same problem, non of the idiot lights work. But I'm going to fix that with a brand new used wiring harness haha. As always, keep up the awesome videos!
John Deere dashes leave a lot to be desired..All my 40 series tractors have a guage pod that I built to house them mounted above the cowl With the securing fastners down under the cowl cover
good pressure but with the good bearing tolerance, it should be. That plastic line aint worth a damn after a year or two, especially with cold weather. After a little time it'll break and it'll squirt 5' out. Run it inside a small rubber fuel line to keep the sun and cold off. Good job on the bearings. Do you have much crank case blow-by? Might pay to run oil samples on that tractor just to make sure you're not getting metals in it.
I have worked with plastics for 25 years and yes you are right the sun and the cold are not good. it is mainly the UV from the sun that makes it brittle..
Hey man, why not bolt, pop rivet, or screw the oil pressure gauge on the rubber piece by the steering column? Unless you don't want to put holes in that.
The steering column (shaft) actually runs inside the sleeve (hollow throttle housing) of the hand throttle. The sleeve that Wes mounted the OP gauge on, only rotates approximately 45 degrees.
HI, Wes, I just watched you put a plastic oil line on your new oil pressure gauge due to movement of your steering column. You would be better off to get 2 24 inch long grease gun hoses and join them with a brass coupling. They are made to withstand 500lbs of pressure. As I have used them for the last 20 years on my race cars (stock and modified) with no problems, they will withstand a lot of heat and high pressure with no trouble. They will fit in place of the plastic or copper sending unit fitting. ie: 1/8inch pipe thread. As I have had plastic and metal lines fail from heat and vibrations with drastic results.
You race.... What do you think the stainless steel lines that you can buy to make your own brake lines or nitrous lines have inside them plastic{nylon]
For those who fault the way you rebuild or half rebuild an engine. An engine on a commercial fishing boat is 50 time as big as that one (3500 hp or more) and they can not be pulled out because you would need to cut the ship in most cases. They rebuild the same way you did more or less. sometimes while at sea depending on the size of ship. The text book people will never be able to make it in the real world unless they learn from the old timers who have worked for a few decades.
You should get a nice OLF jacket for your camera, Wes. The thing is shivering from cold! ;-) I have a question though. Seeing the shift-patern, i can't really figure out how that works. Could you explain that sometime? I'm pretty curious about that. Greetings from the Netherlands!
if people had serious heartburn over that in frame bearing replacement they would have a coronary watching how molten bearing babbitt was poured into the earliest engines
Don't know why people have a problem with it. I'd rather have the crank wear on the bearing babbit then have the steel backing plate spinning around shaving the block half of the race if the bearing were to grab again and not to mention losing the oiling hole location.
When installing that type off oil gauge I like to bleed air out of line at the gauge to get a faster reading to the gauge.Air compress liquid doesn't will show pressure on guage faster!
wes if you fix it to the steering Column and it as a copper pipe feed it will snap the pipe clean off and spray oil all over who is ever driving it needs to be fixed to the dash
Does that tractor cold start using an excess fuel system? I ask as I have had one where the rack sticks open once running as as a result it smokes when you open the throttle.
I like the idea of an idiot light if it's combined with a pressure gauge. They're great for getting attention. Might be a good job for Tim to do. Troubleshoot / fix the light circuit. I'm sure BMW could make an oil pressure light circuit incredibly complicated and expensive, but the John Deere circuit is probably just expensive.
Move the high beam indicator light closer to the RPM tachometer. 5/8" hole I think. Cut a new 2" hole witha bimetal hole saw in your dash using a electric drill. Dont forget to use some coolant (wd-40 is good, or similar oil). Put in the dash and your all set. As to the seat you know its less than $140 for all the parts for that right? www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_74620_74620
You can buy a pod from vdo to set the gauge in. From memory they come in singles or threes and fours. you can also get Tee pieces to fit the idiot light and gauge.
That's where the old fixed with a pair of pliers and some baling wire came from... Some lonely farmer somewhere out on the back 40 3 farms over has something go broke... they fix it with what they have on them... pliers and baling or fence wire. and never get around to fixing it back at the farm...
where I come from what ever works to get the job done is fair! You have a ton of experience and that will trump the way some pencil pusher says it should be every time!
My brother in law always used bearing locker on his race engines when he built them to reduce the chance of spinning a bearing. So I really don't think what you did was stupid.
if anyone says there was a problem with the crankshaft, let me tell you there was not, you should see the inside of modern engines gas and diesel, i work in a gm dealership and some of the poor maintenance engines are horrible inside but run with no issues, trust me his crankshaft was fine. so honestly shut the fuck up, if you just got out of school then you know nothing till you've bin in the trade for 5+ years, i work on duramax engines and what small shops do to keep them running would scare the shit out of you, its not correct but it works, thats the same thing here.
Hello I just recieved my pops 4320 and I plan on restoring it. I purchased a book on the 4320 and it says "with the engine at normal operating temps, correct reulated pressure should be 40-50 psi at 1900 rpm." Then it goes into detail of adjusting the pressure at the oil pressure regulator valve. I will be posting content soon of my 4320. I have learned alot about them so far from your videos. Thank you for the info
There is a worse thing Wes. One of the guys in the shop took the speedo out of this old mercedes. My boss told me to drive it in and do some other work on it. So i started it up and started to drive it into the shop. I had forgotten that it had a mechanical oil gauge in the speedo. This was a bad thing to forget LOL as the motor was hot and i got a lap full of hot oil. You would be surprised at how fast you can turn the engine off apply the park brake and get out of the car while grabbing your overalls to pull them away from your junk which was being fried at the time. It took a second or so to work out where the oil was coming from too. Luckily no permanent damage was done. We live and learn LOL
I love how you put it about the diesel techs just out of school. I'm 28 and have been told about the leather trick many years ago by one of my mentors. I'm a diesel mechanic and a operator for a small outfit so I have to do it all. Love to watch your videos.
Love your videos. My diesel instructor years ago told me you should have 10 lbs oil pressure per 1000 rpm. So, 10 lb oil pressure at idle is sufficient. and from what I saw, the approximate 35 to 40 lbs pressure you had was great.
I think you'll find that your mechanical oil pressure gauge needs to be stationary. Mount it anywhere on the dash or cowling and use your copper tubing if your gonna put that tractor to work. I put them on everything with idiot lights. We changed rod and main bearings in our 4020 while planting beans in the field back about 1970. I don't think we missed a whole day planting. My uncle claims someone put sugar in the tractor's fuel causing it to spin a bearing. Have enjoyed all your videos and look forward to the next.
OLF, the bearing trick i have done a few times, once on a 2,25 petrol and once on a 2,5TD. Both had big end bearing issues and it got us home again after 509 miles of motorway, it helps when you got a low rev engine 5000rpm max. I driven through the UK without brakes, at a parts centre we tied a spanner on the moving end of the double wheel cylinder and used a pan sponge to hone it. It got us home and some.
Good, old school repair work. Forget the keyboard commandos. Years ago I used aluminum foil to shim up some worn bearings. Yes, I was flat broke. Worked like a charm.
I'm a diesel mechanic student, but forget the text book I believe In you gotta do what you gotta do, but working on equipment my whole life thats just what i did. You did a dam good job Wes love watching your videos. Wish you were one of my instructors! Haha keep the videos coming
Joe Smith lol its my tractor... and it will more than likely out last you!!
Sounds good! My grandfather used the leather trick on a old R model Moline tractor he had a rod start knocking while he was trying to finish bailing hay. He put leather in it to get by till he had time to go get a set of bearings.
It's good that you installed an oil pressure gauge to keep track of the eng oil pressure. It points out an item of concern however, and that is the excessively slow rate that it builds oil pressure upon startup. I recommend a prelube pump (and yes I realize that this costs you time and money) in the interest of extending the longevity of a vital piece of equipment that you rely on. You could adapt one from the racing/ industrial world there are many different types/styles to chose from.
Wes you are right with what you are doing I have been changing rod and mains on truck engines for years. I just love the new age mechanics. If you get my drift
Spent most of my life in a job shop situation, everything from engine repair to fabrication to machine work, you have to do what needs doing with the least amount of fuss and keeping an eye on the bottom line.Locktite on bearings, have done it for years and don't ever remember a failure. An oil gauge that turns with the steering wheel, a little ifie.
One thing to always look for when getting gauges, make sure to get ones with metal needles. The cheaper ones with plastic ones normally warp when the are exposed to a lot of sunlight. Tractors sitting out in the "big barn" get more than their fair share.
wes maybe run that oil pressure pipe through some hose pipe then fill it with expanding foam that will help stop the pipe rubbing.. great job as always..
Wes don't worry about the tubing it is Nylon.. The last job I had we used a lot of I/4 in in very Hot enclosed areas, surrounded with steam lines never saw a piece deteriorate to where it couldn't hold 100psi air pressure. . I worked there ten Years. A major power transmission belt Manufactor. I also have a 4010 that has the rod bearings shimmed to get the proper" oil clarance"
I don't know why anyone would have heartburn over your repair. The do the same lower end rebuild on semi engines every day. They can do a lower end (Rods and Mains) rebuild in one day at any semi repair shop. They can last several hundred thousand miles.
So my oliver white 1255 I started it up and had no oil pressure at all and so I put a new gauge on and it still didn't work and I cleaned the line and started it without anything on the hose and no oil came out do u have any advice?
I told my son, who is going to be graduating as a diesel tech this spring, about your fix and he thought it was great! Now he says he would never get away with it at work (for the city), but if it were for himself or my stuff he would definitely give it a try.
Good idea to add that pressure gauge. However, I have a feeling in a future video we are going to see you relocate that gauge and use the copper line kit. I bet that in the back of your mind that plastic tubing is bugging you. Thanks for the videos.
Wes we did a rebuild on 440 Dodge for my 84 W-250. We used a a brush hone on the cylinders with oversize ring cut to fit, The rods and mains we went back with standards units. Would it have been better to pay a machine shop to machine everything, sure would, but I couldn't afford it.
A suggestion; Split a piece of metal tube w/ a slightly larger ID than the steering shaft then clamp it over the shaft then mount the oil guage to the tube. That way the pressure feed tube will not have to flex or stretch at you sterr the tractor.
I was thinking the same thing, if it has to be mounted on the steering shaft, it should no move at all. A piece of larger conduit over the shaft should do it. The rubber at the base should hold t he outer pipe fine. But I liked his other idea, mount it on top of the instrument panel. If it was me, I'd move the idiot lights out of the way and mount it flush in the dash.
I'd have cut a 2" diameter hole using a holesaw somewhere on the 4320's tin and hard mounted the gauge using the copper tubing. (My JD GT262's Hobbs hour meter is actually installed under the tilt hood in the side of the steering console support.
If you pull the wire off the oil pressure sender and ground it, the light should come on. If it does you problem is the sender and if not its in the wiring to the socket or before.
Hi Wes, I'm a huge fan of what ya do. I really think you should put a 4430 turbo and exhaust manifold on that 4320. I think that'd be cooler than hell. I always wanted to do it to a 4020 powershift. We got a 4850 with the same problem, non of the idiot lights work. But I'm going to fix that with a brand new used wiring harness haha. As always, keep up the awesome videos!
John Deere dashes leave a lot to be desired..All my 40 series tractors have a guage pod that I built to house them mounted above the cowl With the securing fastners down under the cowl cover
good pressure but with the good bearing tolerance, it should be. That plastic line aint worth a damn after a year or two, especially with cold weather. After a little time it'll break and it'll squirt 5' out. Run it inside a small rubber fuel line to keep the sun and cold off.
Good job on the bearings. Do you have much crank case blow-by? Might pay to run oil samples on that tractor just to make sure you're not getting metals in it.
I have worked with plastics for 25 years and yes you are right the sun and the cold are not good. it is mainly the UV from the sun that makes it brittle..
Remember in Jersey if you dropped that oil on the road. The DEP would call it a hazardous waste spill.
Thanks for the videos my friend..enjoy your trip with your family..!!!
No family on this trip they are staying home
Take care !!
Hey man, why not bolt, pop rivet, or screw the oil pressure gauge on the rubber piece by the steering column? Unless you don't want to put holes in that.
Great video as always, good luck with your trip and safe travels.
How do you keep the press. gauge from spinning and breaking off the oil line when it's mounted to the steering column?
The steering column (shaft) actually runs inside the sleeve (hollow throttle housing) of the hand throttle. The sleeve that Wes mounted the OP gauge on, only rotates approximately 45 degrees.
saleen367 Tks for explaining that. I didn't k now the set up of where he installed the gauge. All I saw was the gauge move when he turned the wheel.
HI, Wes, I just watched you put a plastic oil line on your new oil pressure gauge due to movement of your steering column. You would be better off to get 2 24 inch long grease gun hoses and join them with a brass coupling. They are made to withstand 500lbs of pressure. As I have used them for the last 20 years on my race cars (stock and modified) with no problems, they will withstand a lot of heat and high pressure with no trouble. They will fit in place of the plastic or copper sending unit fitting. ie: 1/8inch pipe thread. As I have had plastic and metal lines fail from heat and vibrations with drastic results.
You race.... What do you think the stainless steel lines that you can buy to make your own brake lines or nitrous lines have inside them plastic{nylon]
Bingo !
Hey Wes I saw the old western star at laurel valley this morning it was terrible cold up there -20 wind chill
Another thing i noticed is that the back tires seem like they need replacing, by the looks of the tread
He said they were going to be changed in an earlier video after he got it running correctly
Nortekj Oh i did not hear that lol
For those who fault the way you rebuild or half rebuild an engine. An engine on a commercial fishing boat is 50 time as big as that one (3500 hp or more) and they can not be pulled out because you would need to cut the ship in most cases. They rebuild the same way you did more or less. sometimes while at sea depending on the size of ship. The text book people will never be able to make it in the real world unless they learn from the old timers who have worked for a few decades.
You should get a nice OLF jacket for your camera, Wes. The thing is shivering from cold! ;-)
I have a question though. Seeing the shift-patern, i can't really figure out how that works. Could you explain that sometime? I'm pretty curious about that.
Greetings from the Netherlands!
if people had serious heartburn over that in frame bearing replacement they would have a coronary watching how molten bearing babbitt was poured into the earliest engines
Don't know why people have a problem with it. I'd rather have the crank wear on the bearing babbit then have the steel backing plate spinning around shaving the block half of the race if the bearing were to grab again and not to mention losing the oiling hole location.
When installing that type off oil gauge I like to bleed air out of line at the gauge to get a faster reading to the gauge.Air compress liquid doesn't will show pressure on guage faster!
It's all bled out now lol those gauges always get air in the line it is just the way they are
This was a fun rebuild serie
Peace of mind goes a long way when your a long way from the farm !
I HAVE FAITH IN YOU ON THIS MY FRIEND.
Another job done, nice work as always .
wes if you fix it to the steering Column and it as a copper pipe feed it will
snap the pipe clean off and spray oil all over who is ever driving it needs to be
fixed to the dash
Your rod and main repair was just fine, my bet would be the oil pick up starved the bearings and it only takes a second to have damage.
Going to where its warm and sunny with lots of beaches and friendly Filipinas !
Hey Wes, try wrapping that plastic line with electrical loom coil.
Good video again, not knowing diddely about mechanics I find it fascinating, while you are away is Mr. Tim in charge??
Question !! As a new owner of a tractor like yours. Does it usually take that 10 seconds for oil pressure to come up ? Mine takes that long also
Wes, Out of all your stuff, I'd like to see this one completely restored
omfg for real 3 weeks... I will miss your videos so bad. When you are fixing your stuff.
Did I miss the video where you cleaned up the journals, or is that a trade secret?
He didn't. He said the engine seemed clean, and the journals looked fine.
That's a very cool tractor you should restore it and make a video
Does that tractor cold start using an excess fuel system? I ask as I have had one where the rack sticks open once running as as a result it smokes when you open the throttle.
I like the idea of an idiot light if it's combined with a pressure gauge. They're great for getting attention. Might be a good job for Tim to do. Troubleshoot / fix the light circuit. I'm sure BMW could make an oil pressure light circuit incredibly complicated and expensive, but the John Deere circuit is probably just expensive.
Move the high beam indicator light closer to the RPM tachometer. 5/8" hole I think.
Cut a new 2" hole witha bimetal hole saw in your dash using a electric drill. Dont forget to use some coolant (wd-40 is good, or similar oil). Put in the dash and your all set.
As to the seat you know its less than $140 for all the parts for that right?
www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_74620_74620
The oil pressure guage on my 4010 and 4020 are mounted where the fuel guage use to reside
oil light is routed from a sender on the block of the engine
have you ever tried dried human waste around fields to keep deer out
ever put idle shaft bushings in one of these 70s john deeres? will I have to pull engine?
The leather trick was a common fix on of the T model cars they had babbitt bearing and not much power to deal with ...let the Na Sayers bound sand
Why not mount gauge to side of tractor and use Murphy switch
Honestly Wes, i really think that you should find another spot for it than on the steeringcollum . . . :)
I'm with everyone else on not mounting it there permanently. That's probably why the last plastic line broke.
You can buy a pod from vdo to set the gauge in. From memory they come in singles or threes and fours. you can also get Tee pieces to fit the idiot light and gauge.
do most tractors have some space to keep xtra parts if something fails when away from home?
That's where the old fixed with a pair of pliers and some baling wire came from... Some lonely farmer somewhere out on the back 40 3 farms over has something go broke... they fix it with what they have on them... pliers and baling or fence wire. and never get around to fixing it back at the farm...
i have personally taken a liking to a john deer 4020 considering that's all i ran for two months straight
Great video!
I really don't see you as a idiot, i see you as a smart farmer who just doesn't fix things time to time, like my grandad
Hey, whatever works Pal. That's what we do.....
Crank grind isn't necessary. I would have done the same repair.
No Tim?
They don't train people to fix things now just fit parts. Half the kids cumin out collage haven't got a clue of haw to bodge some so you keep going.
where I come from what ever works to get the job done is fair! You have a ton of experience and that will trump the way some pencil pusher says it should be every time!
I don't really like that location but if you are happy with it.. Thanks I have a friend in Taichung, Taiwan, say hi.
Me either, won't if just break when you turn the wheel?
FishFind3000 its mounted on the throttle assembly, only moves about 30 degrees total
wow that sounds nice
The majority of oil your pressure comes from the cam bearings
I've actually learned from you
good job
My brother in law always used bearing locker on his race engines when he built them to reduce the chance of spinning a bearing. So I really don't think what you did was stupid.
i would do that repair if some one helps me
Well that is a good sign you have decent oil pressure, now buying a cheap pressure gauge that's another story lol
if I was doing that job myself I would leave the crank in
if I was paying someone else to do it I would want that crank out and ground
Exhaust u-bolt would've worked too
Wow. Fix the idiot light, cap the ether injector, and the gauge on the throttle tube ? SMH
Race motors , We went for 10 lbs per thousand rpm
you are right'''
race motor =High HP ,,, short duration
tractor motor =high torque ,,, long duration --hopefully
Evening all.
One other thing, wish I was your neighbor. I would love to come over and help you out with free labor. Having nothing better todo myself.
Magnet Mount
There it is! You win bc. 57
Turbo that ol girl!!
It is turbocharged.
bad place for an oil guage to be mounted
if anyone says there was a problem with the crankshaft, let me tell you there was not, you should see the inside of modern engines gas and diesel, i work in a gm dealership and some of the poor maintenance engines are horrible inside but run with no issues, trust me his crankshaft was fine.
so honestly shut the fuck up, if you just got out of school then you know nothing till you've bin in the trade for 5+ years, i work on duramax engines and what small shops do to keep them running would scare the shit out of you, its not correct but it works, thats the same thing here.
suck the other end before or after we rate comment and subscribe ? lol
My 4320 looks better
hahaha 7:00 min mark haha