After retiring my Marantz 2252B receiver with a switched outlet that I plugged in my BOSE 901 EQ to. But my new Emotiva pre amp and power amp didn’t have switched outlet so I found a Black and Decker Wireless Remote-Control Outlet for $16. Only downside is I now have another remote to live with.
Hi Steve, I came across your video as I'm looking to do the same thing for myself here in Australia on our 240V/10A mains. I had thought of using one of the small relay boards available complete that uses 12V to trigger the 240V AC relay, but I'd prefer to follow the same model as you have. Would you be open to sharing your schematic/design so I can follow how you have wired up the relays and which models they are (I know I'll need 240V versions). I'm trying to determine how you are using the 12V relay to switch your 120V one... is the 12V relay passing 120V to energise the coil on the larger relay? I've done DC powered ones before using a DC source for to trigger my cooling fans when the 12V trigger fires but not an AC setup so I am hoping you are open to a little teaching and sharing of information :D
Hi michael. I do have a drawing of the circuit, but give me few days to see if I can find it. To answer your question: The 12VDC relay coil is energized by the 12VDC trigger voltage and the 12VDC relay contacts pass 120VAC to energize the 120VAC relay's 120VAC coil. I hope that makes sense until I find the drawing I made.
@@StevesStrayStuff Thanks for replying Steve. :) It does make sense. Is the reasoning for 2 then that you had a small DC-AC relay and the larger AC-AC contactor rather than one single (more expensive DC-AC unit)? I've a DC-AC relay that operates on 3-12V (50mA or 75mA trigger @12V) and passes 240VAC @40A max I'm planning to use. 75mA seems comfortably within the capacity of the 12V trigger and I figured I'd just use the single relay unit. Previously I've used the trigger to run a 12V wall wart for powering fans or relays needing over 100mA to trigger... I didn't think that was necessary here.
@@michaelrobinson9643 When you said "I've a DC-AC relay that operates on 3-12V (50mA or 75mA trigger @12V) and passes 240VAC @40A max I'm planning to use" is where I thought about the strain on the 12VDC trigger circuit, because I cannot find any standard criteria for a 12VDC trigger. My 12VDC trigger was only 10.8VDC and I thought the extra 75mA+ current draw might be on the high side for the preamp/processor providing the trigger. The small 12VDC relay dropped the extra trigger current requirement to less than 20ma. My processor's trigger output, triggers four series connected components and I thought that the extra 75mA+ current draw might be a problem. All of the 240VAC @ 15A/20A relays with a 12VDC coil that I could find required 75mA to 100mA and I didn't want to chance it. Even the dedicated repeater I purchased has three outputs and the total maximum output current is150mA.
I printed a nice enclosure too - fits a dual gang GPO on the front and has connection points for the trigger and 240V input. Not a bad outcome for a novice designer and orients nicely behind all of my gear (I'll use it to power my amp and my minidsp).
You really should have a diode across the terminals of the DC trigger power supply coming from your emotiva. When the relay shuts off, the piston drops back down through the coil and sends DC the opposite way to the emotiva trigger output. It may fry or confuse it one day. A 1N4004 would work fine.
You are absolutely right craig and I thought about that after I put the box behind the audio cabinet, because I do have a bag of 1N4001s. The next time I have to go behind the stereo cabinet, I will fish it out and add the diode.
Hi Tony. My decision was totally based on the cost. I wanted to keep this as inexpensive as possible. I wanted to use a DPST relay to open both the hot and neutral. A SPST solid state relay starts at $60 and I would need two. The DPST mechanical relay I purchased was only $20 and it is rated for 10 million operations so it should outlast me, haha. Thanks for watching.
I wish I could Thomas. I have several homemade electrical devices that have been plugged in for over twenty years and have never failed. My homemade boxes do not have UL Certification, so I cannot make you one. If my device were to start a fire and I don't have the UL certification, I will be held 100% liable. Thanks for watching.
There's something called 'room reverb'. Room reverb robs your voice of plosives and fricatives which are important aspects of speech as they help your brain figure out what words are being said. Room reverb is not your friend. Avoid the stuff. If you're going to do videos, get one or more super cheap personal/lavaliere mics and use them religiously. Room reverb does not give your video extra authenticity. It's gives your video bad audio. Bad audio ruins good video every time. A word, to the wise, is sufficient. Care more. Do better. Thanks.
I agree. This video is two years old, when I was testing the UA-cam waters. I was using a camera with its internal mic. I have long since upgrade to an audio recorder.
After retiring my Marantz 2252B receiver with a switched outlet that I plugged in my BOSE 901 EQ to. But my new Emotiva pre amp and power amp didn’t have switched outlet so I found a Black and Decker Wireless Remote-Control Outlet for $16. Only downside is I now have another remote to live with.
Good find. One more remote, haha, just one more to add the pile!
Nice job, and a great safe way to ppwer external equipment. You do remind me of Joe Walsh
Thanks craig, the 'safe' part is important. I am a Joe Walsh fan, just wish I had his bank account too 😁
Hi Steve, I came across your video as I'm looking to do the same thing for myself here in Australia on our 240V/10A mains.
I had thought of using one of the small relay boards available complete that uses 12V to trigger the 240V AC relay, but I'd prefer to follow the same model as you have.
Would you be open to sharing your schematic/design so I can follow how you have wired up the relays and which models they are (I know I'll need 240V versions).
I'm trying to determine how you are using the 12V relay to switch your 120V one... is the 12V relay passing 120V to energise the coil on the larger relay?
I've done DC powered ones before using a DC source for to trigger my cooling fans when the 12V trigger fires but not an AC setup so I am hoping you are open to a little teaching and sharing of information :D
Hi michael. I do have a drawing of the circuit, but give me few days to see if I can find it.
To answer your question: The 12VDC relay coil is energized by the 12VDC trigger voltage and the 12VDC relay contacts pass 120VAC to energize the 120VAC relay's 120VAC coil. I hope that makes sense until I find the drawing I made.
@@StevesStrayStuff Thanks for replying Steve. :)
It does make sense.
Is the reasoning for 2 then that you had a small DC-AC relay and the larger AC-AC contactor rather than one single (more expensive DC-AC unit)?
I've a DC-AC relay that operates on 3-12V (50mA or 75mA trigger @12V) and passes 240VAC @40A max I'm planning to use.
75mA seems comfortably within the capacity of the 12V trigger and I figured I'd just use the single relay unit.
Previously I've used the trigger to run a 12V wall wart for powering fans or relays needing over 100mA to trigger... I didn't think that was necessary here.
@@michaelrobinson9643 When you said "I've a DC-AC relay that operates on 3-12V (50mA or 75mA trigger @12V) and passes 240VAC @40A max I'm planning to use" is where I thought about the strain on the 12VDC trigger circuit, because I cannot find any standard criteria for a 12VDC trigger. My 12VDC trigger was only 10.8VDC and I thought the extra 75mA+ current draw might be on the high side for the preamp/processor providing the trigger. The small 12VDC relay dropped the extra trigger current requirement to less than 20ma. My processor's trigger output, triggers four series connected components and I thought that the extra 75mA+ current draw might be a problem.
All of the 240VAC @ 15A/20A relays with a 12VDC coil that I could find required 75mA to 100mA and I didn't want to chance it. Even the dedicated repeater I purchased has three outputs and the total maximum output current is150mA.
I printed a nice enclosure too - fits a dual gang GPO on the front and has connection points for the trigger and 240V input. Not a bad outcome for a novice designer and orients nicely behind all of my gear (I'll use it to power my amp and my minidsp).
@@michaelrobinson9643 Nice! Nothing is more satisfying than using something you designed and built yourself.
You really should have a diode across the terminals of the DC trigger power supply coming from your emotiva. When the relay shuts off, the piston drops back down through the coil and sends DC the opposite way to the emotiva trigger output. It may fry or confuse it one day. A 1N4004 would work fine.
Like just add a diode to the 12V trigger input on the small relay. Put it between the pins directly on the small relay.
You are absolutely right craig and I thought about that after I put the box behind the audio cabinet, because I do have a bag of 1N4001s. The next time I have to go behind the stereo cabinet, I will fish it out and add the diode.
Just curious, why didn't you use a solid state relay ? Do you think they may be an isolation issue?
Hi Tony. My decision was totally based on the cost. I wanted to keep this as inexpensive as possible. I wanted to use a DPST relay to open both the hot and neutral. A SPST solid state relay starts at $60 and I would need two. The DPST mechanical relay I purchased was only $20 and it is rated for 10 million operations so it should outlast me, haha. Thanks for watching.
Why not use the 12v trigger coming from the receiver it self and save yourself the money and step of using the emotiva trigger splitter?
I wanted to make sure I isolated the power strip relay from the receiver's trigger output and the repeater did that for me.
I understand. But it should work without it, correct?
@@antoniofontes4478 Yes, it would work without the Emotiva box.
Thank you
May I please get circuit diagram
Give me a couple of days, and I will upload it to Google Drive and share it with you. If I can find the parts list, I will upload that for you, too.
Would you build one to sell to me
I wish I could Thomas. I have several homemade electrical devices that have been plugged in for over twenty years and have never failed. My homemade boxes do not have UL Certification, so I cannot make you one. If my device were to start a fire and I don't have the UL certification, I will be held 100% liable. Thanks for watching.
There's something called 'room reverb'.
Room reverb robs your voice of plosives and fricatives which are important aspects of speech as they help your brain figure out what words are being said.
Room reverb is not your friend. Avoid the stuff.
If you're going to do videos, get one or more super cheap personal/lavaliere mics and use them religiously.
Room reverb does not give your video extra authenticity.
It's gives your video bad audio.
Bad audio ruins good video every time.
A word, to the wise, is sufficient.
Care more. Do better. Thanks.
I agree. This video is two years old, when I was testing the UA-cam waters. I was using a camera with its internal mic. I have long since upgrade to an audio recorder.
Hey, he’s just trying to help us all. I understood everything he said, who cares about reverb.
@@ramsaybolton9099 Thank you!