Can’t agree enough with your recommendation more… I got a bike fit prior to getting my Dimond Marquise and it saved a ton of guesswork! I would also add that finding the right saddle during the fit is crucial to getting in a proper fit! 🤙🏻
My current interest is stack height for my pads. This is my 3rd year on the Tri bike. I have been working to get my front end lower over the last 2 years. I’m on 175mm cranks and a big fan of them. I feel pretty comfy staying in areo just did a 4 hour ride where I was in aero over 85% of the time. Any way wondering if the current TT trend of raising the stack and relaxing down into it is going to be a good fit for me or in Tri. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this series thanks TJ. Love the look of the ICON
Great video! Any recommendations for a wider elbow rest brand? I have a frozen shoulder and a narrow grip is not possible. My grip would have to be outside my shoulder width.
Thanks for the helpful vid. After almost a decade since my last tri, I decided to sign up for DSM 70.3. I recently picked up a 54 Cervelo P-Series without a proper fitting (shoulda got a Dimond!) and I’m finding that it’s hard to get perfectly dialed in. I talked with Bill Hardin at Bike World, but sounds like he’s starting to get out of the game? Can you give any advice for the best local fitters?
IMHO people should stop recommending crank arm length changes as a first thing, it's a big component change in the bike, specially if you already have Powermeter in the crank... It is possible to achieve better hip angles also by adjusting the saddle position towards the front, which is way easier and cheaper for the rider... Also, how do you adjust the saddle height in this frame? Seems like a very limited range.
Yes, for sure. 7.5mm difference will feel drastic at first and if you don't move your saddle height up when you make the change it will be more obvious.
Old school setup should try the high hands.
Can’t agree enough with your recommendation more… I got a bike fit prior to getting my Dimond Marquise and it saved a ton of guesswork!
I would also add that finding the right saddle during the fit is crucial to getting in a proper fit! 🤙🏻
Thank you for the great tips. Would definitely like to know more about fit bikes and where to go for those.
My current interest is stack height for my pads. This is my 3rd year on the Tri bike. I have been working to get my front end lower over the last 2 years. I’m on 175mm cranks and a big fan of them. I feel pretty comfy staying in areo just did a 4 hour ride where I was in aero over 85% of the time. Any way wondering if the current TT trend of raising the stack and relaxing down into it is going to be a good fit for me or in Tri. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this series thanks TJ. Love the look of the ICON
Great video! Any recommendations for a wider elbow rest brand? I have a frozen shoulder and a narrow grip is not possible. My grip would have to be outside my shoulder width.
Thanks for the helpful vid. After almost a decade since my last tri, I decided to sign up for DSM 70.3. I recently picked up a 54 Cervelo P-Series without a proper fitting (shoulda got a Dimond!) and I’m finding that it’s hard to get perfectly dialed in. I talked with Bill Hardin at Bike World, but sounds like he’s starting to get out of the game? Can you give any advice for the best local fitters?
Any more teasers on the Ikon?! When do we hear more?! 😊
Launching at Ironman Arizona along with a new full suspension MTB.
@@TJ.at.DimondBikes MTB?! If its a Dimond, it has to look like the old Cannondale Super V! 😆
Been 6 years saddle
Sores neck pain never ever comfortable
IMHO people should stop recommending crank arm length changes as a first thing, it's a big component change in the bike, specially if you already have Powermeter in the crank... It is possible to achieve better hip angles also by adjusting the saddle position towards the front, which is way easier and cheaper for the rider...
Also, how do you adjust the saddle height in this frame? Seems like a very limited range.
This seatpost allows about 20mm of height adjustment. Measure twice, cut once!
Can you even tell the difference between 172.5 and 165? That's not even 1 cm.
Yes, for sure. 7.5mm difference will feel drastic at first and if you don't move your saddle height up when you make the change it will be more obvious.