I want to say thank you for this! Showing the listing for the switch was extremely helpful and saved a ton of research. AN ADDITIONAL TIP for those whom do want to remove the entire cover, just remove all of screws shown here AND the 8 screws inside around the front upper half INSIDE, get a firm grip on one side of the rear lip and pull firmly. Do this on each side and each side will let loose, do the same for the top to release from the clips holding the cover to the front. It FEELS like there's something else holding it but, there isn't. It was simple enough that THIS girl did it, fixed it, put it back together and shined it up! To clean the outer steel cover , use a soft rag and rub the outer shell with mineral oil or baby oil (Lightly, not a lot is necessary), then once grime is loosened up, wipe the oil off with a soft rag, then finally shine it with a different soft rag. ;)
thank you for the instructions. For those that are looking for instructions on how to remove the wire plugs from the microswitch which is not shown in this video. I just ended up cutting the wires off and just buying new spade connectors (they are 4.8mm btw) and then just crimping the wires into them and connecting to the microswitch (same one on the video, works great).
Thank you for the very nice instructions to open the Toaster oven. I tested the switch but it was working. I pressed and played with the connections and low and behold, it started working. However I do not know which connection was loose. Thanks again. Great instructional video. Thanks again.
Thank you for showing this. Ours just stopped working all of a sudden after a little over 3 years. But, after watching this, I pressed the switch in a few times and the toaster started working again. Thanks again!!
This unit was made to fail. The rotary function switch failed after a year and the microswitch came loose but I love the way it cooks and I'm determined to fix it! I've been learning to fix home elevator interlocks & most of the time it's the microswitch, hopefully I already have that switch in stock. Thanks for the vid!
this was super useful. i looked through the comments and chose to solder the wires together. only part i had trouble with was getting the clips off (which should have been one of the easiest parts??). ended up prying them off with a screwdriver. also didn't re-attach the two screws inside. it was tricky to get my arm in there and it didn't seem necessary. thanks for saving me money and the environment from another piece of trash
by the way this video was perfection. The instructions and everything was perfection. My only thing that I did not enjoy and I’m pretty sure a lot of other people will agree with me. Was that damn music lol. But it doesn’t matter. You got the job done, and I really appreciate your work in creating this video and helping, hundreds, if not thousands of people out! Thank you so much!
You don't actually need the switch. Just wire the 2 wires together. Don't use any plastic though. You could solder together then cover with the white heat protection sleeves and then Zip tie it over the connection. Be sure all metal is covered and u don't use plastic directly on the metal. If bare metal from the wires touches the metal frame you will be electrocuted. Doing this will mean your oven will stay on when u open the door which is not a big deal. Thank you to the creator of this video. You saved me money.
Thing is, bypassing the switch is OK when you use the toast or broil option, no big deal. But with air fry, that's a different story. You can be blasted by some overheated air when opening the door. So in my opinion that's the role of the switch.
Thank you for the disassembly/assembly breakdown. There are like 20 screws on the back cover (one is a hex), and then there are the feet screws. We also in our attempt to find the broken component, removed three screws under the rubber gasket under the control panel, and about six screws from the inside of the unit toward the control panel. I happened to have the right switch in my stash. Well almost right. It didn't have as long of a metal lever, so we "made" the new switch work. Anyway, this is a problem inherent in the design. The button on the switch "melts" over time as it may not be the right switch for a hot environment. My switch had evidence of internal overheating.
Wow! Thank you for such a detailed instructional video! Both my original and warranty replacement model died after 1 year. The replacement one also has knob issue and then it eventually died. This looks like a good fix, but wonder if there are other reasons it just died. Not sure if it's worth trying as I'm not a repair expert. I hate how faulty and flawed the design is, but also love how powerful this oven is; hence my reluctance to completely give up on this oven.
Thank you so much!!!! I thought my Ambiano Power Air Fryer Oven from Aldi (Model No. WJT-D23AFLR aka the Kalorik AFO 46110) was done, but after following your video it turns out the safety microswitch must have gone past the switch itself, so I reset it back into place, screwed it back in, and its' working again! I nearly taped it down with electrical tape just to make sure I dind't have to deal with the issue again!
One thing that can be added to the description -- at the part which says "you can pull it up", the tabs that fix the side panel to the front can be very, very snug, so in order to separate these parts one has to use an extra tool like a screwdriver etc, to push back on the front panel. I found this extremely hard, but it worked in the end.
@@sue_patrick I recommend wearing gloves to do this, we had the same problem and the hold-down-and-pull looks like it might be sending someone for stitches
Our symptom was the same, but our solution was removing entire sides/top sheet metal and jiggling one connector. Then everything worked! Switch was not our culprit.
thank you, your guide helped me. In my case I got brand new oven from auction (very cheap), but it was not turning on :). It ended up that one of the contacts on the switch was loose :) Easy fix!
I too was able to use this video to fix my air fryer. I needed to cut off and replace my terminal connection pads bc they were soldered on but still. Thanks for making the video!
@@jjfam3351 For me I bought replacement terminals at a home maintenance store, I clipped the old terminals off the wire, stripped the wire back, crimped on the new terminals to the wire and then crimped the terminals to the new microswitch. If your stuff doesn't match you might have bought the wrong microswitch or terminals. Best of luck.
I'm in the process of replacing mine as this appears to certainly be the problem, but the sides of mine did not come anywhere close as loose as shown, and yes I removed the two interior screws. Great video thought! I had to cut my wires and I'll have to cramp on new ends. Well, 3 days later and got my part, 100% worked! Thank you for the video!
It's difficult to tell from your video. And since you offered no written or spoken words. Was the switch no longer pushing in and popping back out? Or was it just no longer making contact?
thanks for the steps, but you skipped the part where you tie the door switch back with the wires. I found that they are soldered onto the oem switch and it was a headache figuring out how to reconnect without a soldering iron.
Thank you for posting this very helpful video. I do have a question regarding the 2 screws on minute 2:17. How did you remove those 2 screws that are near the defective switch in the front. I don't have skinny hands to get down that far from the back. What tool did you use ? Thanks in advance
@@tienman49 I feel so terrible. I was able to removed those 2 screws after i actually removed the back panel. I was trying to remove without the back panel. At this time, i am waiting for the replacement switch part to arrive. Tried to remove the cables attached to the swtich but had no luck. Looks like there are solder locking all in place. Tried to melt it and also had a hard time at 500 degrees. I am going to cut out the 7.5 mm female insulated terminal and replace with a regular one with the red pvc insulator. I don't have the same type of female terminal (Let me know if ok to do so). If you replaced the terminals, please let me know what you used or how did you remove the terminal from the switch connectors. Thanks in advance.
@@tienman49 Just noticed that the oven is working but when the oven is on and i pull the door open, the oven is still on. Not sure if perhaps there is just another issue or not. I have been able to use is as is. 🙂
Ours is maybe 3 years old and the only thing not functioning properly is the selection switch in the BROIL or BROIL* mode. It works for maybe 2 seconds then shuts off… then after 5 seconds we get another 2 seconds on. This keeps repeating, but the other switch positions work fine. Is this fixable, can you buy a new switch and install it?
I think that switch is broke . on mine toast function broke too . . Try to fix but ...can't not .It is time to buy new one due to a lot of stuff not made in U.S.A
I just took my unit apart and in my opinion repairing the rotary switches would be hard, i.e. just to get to them for disassembly. May be not worth your time.
@tienman49 I replaced the microswitch with a new one, but I am trying to test before closing up the oven to make sure everything is working correctly. Unfortunately, the oven still has no power. Will your solution only work when I put everything back together? Or should I use a voltage tester to troubleshoot more?
I've had to fix 3 different issues on this thing in 3 years. It's great, but getting tired of fixing. The quality is nowhere near that of an oven. The function knob went, and now it won't turn on so have to figure that out now.
I'm having the same problem but it looks fairly obvious the DOOR is NOT closing properly FLUSH- it's tilted away from hitting the switch solidly. Since this just happened, I'm of the belief that maybe the door "legs" fell out of adjustment with a harder than usual slam shut. If re-aligning the door doesn't help, I'll be back. Thanks for this.
I want to say thank you for this! Showing the listing for the switch was extremely helpful and saved a ton of research. AN ADDITIONAL TIP for those whom do want to remove the entire cover, just remove all of screws shown here AND the 8 screws inside around the front upper half INSIDE, get a firm grip on one side of the rear lip and pull firmly. Do this on each side and each side will let loose, do the same for the top to release from the clips holding the cover to the front. It FEELS like there's something else holding it but, there isn't. It was simple enough that THIS girl did it, fixed it, put it back together and shined it up! To clean the outer steel cover , use a soft rag and rub the outer shell with mineral oil or baby oil (Lightly, not a lot is necessary), then once grime is loosened up, wipe the oil off with a soft rag, then finally shine it with a different soft rag. ;)
thank you for the instructions. For those that are looking for instructions on how to remove the wire plugs from the microswitch which is not shown in this video. I just ended up cutting the wires off and just buying new spade connectors (they are 4.8mm btw) and then just crimping the wires into them and connecting to the microswitch (same one on the video, works great).
Thank you for the very nice instructions to open the Toaster oven. I tested the switch but it was working. I pressed and played with the connections and low and behold, it started working. However I do not know which connection was loose. Thanks again. Great instructional video. Thanks again.
I had the same problem with mine. I followed your instructions and I was able to fix mine also. Thank you so much for this detailed video.
Thank you for showing this. Ours just stopped working all of a sudden after a little over 3 years. But, after watching this, I pressed the switch in a few times and the toaster started working again. Thanks again!!
This unit was made to fail. The rotary function switch failed after a year and the microswitch came loose but I love the way it cooks and I'm determined to fix it! I've been learning to fix home elevator interlocks & most of the time it's the microswitch, hopefully I already have that switch in stock. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks, your help with this video was awesome, I fix my Cuisinart Air fryer!!!
this was super useful. i looked through the comments and chose to solder the wires together. only part i had trouble with was getting the clips off (which should have been one of the easiest parts??). ended up prying them off with a screwdriver. also didn't re-attach the two screws inside. it was tricky to get my arm in there and it didn't seem necessary. thanks for saving me money and the environment from another piece of trash
by the way this video was perfection. The instructions and everything was perfection. My only thing that I did not enjoy and I’m pretty sure a lot of other people will agree with me. Was that damn music lol. But it doesn’t matter. You got the job done, and I really appreciate your work in creating this video and helping, hundreds, if not thousands of people out! Thank you so much!
You don't actually need the switch. Just wire the 2 wires together. Don't use any plastic though. You could solder together then cover with the white heat protection sleeves and then Zip tie it over the connection. Be sure all metal is covered and u don't use plastic directly on the metal. If bare metal from the wires touches the metal frame you will be electrocuted. Doing this will mean your oven will stay on when u open the door which is not a big deal. Thank you to the creator of this video. You saved me money.
Thing is, bypassing the switch is OK when you use the toast or broil option, no big deal. But with air fry, that's a different story. You can be blasted by some overheated air when opening the door. So in my opinion that's the role of the switch.
@@maximpotekhin766 That's exactly what happens when u open an oven to check on food. It's not really necessary.
Ditch the switch
I did this and worked! Thanks to you and to the creator of the video
Thanks I just cut off the switch and shorted the wires. Works now, my wife think im Superman 💪
Thank you for the disassembly/assembly breakdown. There are like 20 screws on the back cover (one is a hex), and then there are the feet screws. We also in our attempt to find the broken component, removed three screws under the rubber gasket under the control panel, and about six screws from the inside of the unit toward the control panel.
I happened to have the right switch in my stash. Well almost right. It didn't have as long of a metal lever, so we "made" the new switch work. Anyway, this is a problem inherent in the design. The button on the switch "melts" over time as it may not be the right switch for a hot environment. My switch had evidence of internal overheating.
Thank you. I was having trouble finding the replacement switch that comes with the lever and you showed how to put in the lever.... problem solved!
Thank you for the instructions and the lullaby background music i almost fell asleep while watching..
I loved the music and movie 🍿
Wow! Thank you for such a detailed instructional video! Both my original and warranty replacement model died after 1 year. The replacement one also has knob issue and then it eventually died. This looks like a good fix, but wonder if there are other reasons it just died. Not sure if it's worth trying as I'm not a repair expert. I hate how faulty and flawed the design is, but also love how powerful this oven is; hence my reluctance to completely give up on this oven.
The lamp won't even go on in mine. So it has to be another problem. Have you had any luck since posting your comment?
Excellent. Just the info I needed.
This video is epic . Helpful and no BS . Love it
Thank you so much!!!! I thought my Ambiano Power Air Fryer Oven from Aldi (Model No. WJT-D23AFLR aka the Kalorik AFO 46110) was done, but after following your video it turns out the safety microswitch must have gone past the switch itself, so I reset it back into place, screwed it back in, and its' working again! I nearly taped it down with electrical tape just to make sure I dind't have to deal with the issue again!
I am ordering a switch on amazon now, to fix my moms. She uses it very often. Thank you!
One thing that can be added to the description -- at the part which says "you can pull it up", the tabs that fix the side panel to the front can be very, very snug, so in order to separate these parts one has to use an extra tool like a screwdriver etc, to push back on the front panel. I found this extremely hard, but it worked in the end.
I used a wooden stick to hold the front part down and then pulled up on the side panel.
@@sue_patrick I recommend wearing gloves to do this, we had the same problem and the hold-down-and-pull looks like it might be sending someone for stitches
🙏@@tinyhonkshus
Thanks for the video. I am not a handy person but was able to follow the steps and tips (in the comments) and completed the fix.
Thank you for the video - was able to fix mine and save big $$$. Same problem with the door switch.
Great video. Thank you. HORRIBLE music. 🤙🏾🤣 Life is hard. Hopefully I can fix my oven now.
Our symptom was the same, but our solution was removing entire sides/top sheet metal and jiggling one connector. Then everything worked! Switch was not our culprit.
Thank you for the very helpful video as well as the information about the part to order.
thank you, your guide helped me.
In my case I got brand new oven from auction (very cheap), but it was not turning on :).
It ended up that one of the contacts on the switch was loose :)
Easy fix!
I too was able to use this video to fix my air fryer. I needed to cut off and replace my terminal connection pads bc they were soldered on but still. Thanks for making the video!
How did you do this I couldn’t connect the pink and black wires because they didn’t Match the replacement
@@jjfam3351 For me I bought replacement terminals at a home maintenance store, I clipped the old terminals off the wire, stripped the wire back, crimped on the new terminals to the wire and then crimped the terminals to the new microswitch. If your stuff doesn't match you might have bought the wrong microswitch or terminals. Best of luck.
@@TGCRequiem could you share link the replacement terminals? My terminal connection is also soldered on, so I don't know how to proceed from here.
I'm in the process of replacing mine as this appears to certainly be the problem, but the sides of mine did not come anywhere close as loose as shown, and yes I removed the two interior screws. Great video thought! I had to cut my wires and I'll have to cramp on new ends. Well, 3 days later and got my part, 100% worked! Thank you for the video!
Me too. the side didn't lose at all. I am stuck at this step now, leaving all screws on the floor and search UA-cam now.
It is interesting to see how you work on it. Thank you very much even I can't do it because I don't have the right tools
Thank you very much for this video. It was very helpful.I appreciate it!
Kenny G was so unnecessary
This is fine for someone younger with a steady hand and good eyesight.
Thanx! I fixed mine with your solution.. If doesnt PowernOn when you connect it, is the MicroSwitch. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing knowledge!
Mine is just the airfryer setting. Alll of the other settings works. What should I do?
Thanks saved me from buying a new one 🙏🙏
It's difficult to tell from your video. And since you offered no written or spoken words. Was the switch no longer pushing in and popping back out? Or was it just no longer making contact?
I just repaired my unit. From what I can tell, the microswitch broke and the button doesn't even stick out. That I think what they meant by "popping".
thanks for the steps, but you skipped the part where you tie the door switch back with the wires. I found that they are soldered onto the oem switch and it was a headache figuring out how to reconnect without a soldering iron.
at The home depot you can buy .Gardner Bender
22 - 18 AWG 0.250 Fully Insulated F-Disconnects in Red (15-Pack) price $4.91 .
@@tienman49 Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll have to go grab a pack and redo the connection.
I just have this problem. Your vid is great, now I have to do the work 😢. Being a woman, this is not one of my strengths.
Thank you for uploading this video
Thanks!!
Funny enough it was exactly 3 years and this just happened. Going to try this later and hope it works!
The most Air fry and Microware now used Micro switch instead of fused 🙂
I truly had so much hope at the beginning of this video it quickly drained out when I realized I just had better buy another one. 🥩🍗🍕
I have the TOA-70 series and have the same problem with no power. Does this video apply to it also?
just try , it is maybe work . Good Luck
Thank you for posting this very helpful video. I do have a question regarding the 2 screws on minute 2:17. How did you remove those 2 screws that are near the defective switch in the front. I don't have skinny hands to get down that far from the back. What tool did you use ? Thanks in advance
I used long Phillip driver 🤦♂
@@tienman49 I feel so terrible. I was able to removed those 2 screws after i actually removed the back panel. I was trying to remove without the back panel. At this time, i am waiting for the replacement switch part to arrive. Tried to remove the cables attached to the swtich but had no luck. Looks like there are solder locking all in place. Tried to melt it and also had a hard time at 500 degrees. I am going to cut out the 7.5 mm female insulated terminal and replace with a regular one with the red pvc insulator. I don't have the same type of female terminal (Let me know if ok to do so). If you replaced the terminals, please let me know what you used or how did you remove the terminal from the switch connectors. Thanks in advance.
@@tienman49 OMG I got the part and got my Cusinart oven to work again!!!! Thank you so much. You Rock !!!
@@tienman49 Just noticed that the oven is working but when the oven is on and i pull the door open, the oven is still on. Not sure if perhaps there is just another issue or not. I have been able to use is as is. 🙂
@@AquilesLongobardi I think that problem is (defect micro switch ). If was me , I change another one. Good Luck
How did you connect the connectors to the fuse after replace the pop .. 6:47 .
Unfortunately, he left this important needed step out of the video.
I’m stuck at 3:47, anyone living in Boston who could assist please? Thank you.
Do you have a link of qhere did you get that specific part?
No . but at Amazone have a lot .
How has your replacement switch held up to the oven's heat?
Hello there . replacement oven's heat must be open whole thing , take it off from inside . Good luck
Ours is maybe 3 years old and the only thing not functioning properly is the selection switch in the BROIL or BROIL* mode. It works for maybe 2 seconds then shuts off… then after 5 seconds we get another 2 seconds on. This keeps repeating, but the other switch positions work fine. Is this fixable, can you buy a new switch and install it?
I think that switch is broke . on mine toast function broke too . . Try to fix but ...can't not .It is time to buy new one due to a lot of stuff not made in U.S.A
I just took my unit apart and in my opinion repairing the rotary switches would be hard, i.e. just to get to them for disassembly. May be not worth your time.
How do you pop the cover out? Mine is stuck
use screwdriver is the best way . good luck
can you fix the digital one too? that's the one I have and it's not working correctly... thanks
If no power when plug in Electricity . That might same problem .
So what is the part?
@tienman49 I replaced the microswitch with a new one, but I am trying to test before closing up the oven to make sure everything is working correctly. Unfortunately, the oven still has no power. Will your solution only work when I put everything back together? Or should I use a voltage tester to troubleshoot more?
I think better you assembly back and try it for safety . use to microswitch is fuse . will blow it before burn main heater . just try and good luck
I've had to fix 3 different issues on this thing in 3 years. It's great, but getting tired of fixing. The quality is nowhere near that of an oven. The function knob went, and now it won't turn on so have to figure that out now.
It's Broke again. Haven't touched it in months. I'll try to figure out and fix again.
How/why do you have an instructional video with no voice instructions?
How did you remove the wires from the switch. They seem soldered on.
Cut off and buy adapter at Home depot about less than $2.00 USD🙂. so if next time burned , very easy to replace
@johnfoley4023 Female Quick Connectors (12-10 Wire Gauge) at The Home depot
Other things to check : thermal fuse, heater switch thermostat
Hi, is that a normally open switch or normal close?
Hello . that is open switch with fuse for Toast oven
@@tienman49 Thanks, that was a great video, you explained it very detail.
I got one screw off I’ll try again after a nap 💤
They put this same crappy switch on space heaters, etc, They build them to fail. Really flimsy.
I literally just bought mine two days ago and I'm already having this issue.
So sorry about that . just return Air fryer due to defect one
Mine is only a Year and a half.
Ummm... nice fix the oven music? I guess..lol.. I need to clean the roof of mine ...
This was totally useless.
I'm having the same problem but it looks fairly obvious the DOOR is NOT closing properly FLUSH- it's tilted away from hitting the switch solidly. Since this just happened, I'm of the belief that maybe the door "legs" fell out of adjustment with a harder than usual slam shut. If re-aligning the door doesn't help, I'll be back. Thanks for this.
Terrible choice for music.