Narrated 400sq ft A-frame 17 day cabin build (part 1) Canada east coast Spring 2023
Вставка
- Опубліковано 31 тра 2023
- This is a 17 minute long narrated collection of stop-action, video, and photos of the first two trips out to the east coast to build our (not from a kit) a-frame. The first trip was 11 days in April and the second was 5 days in May. The narration describes the project and some of the construction details.
The total cost for this build (excluding all travel and labour), was about CDN $40k (metal roof $7k, windows and doors $6k, insulation $5k, foundation $3k, lumber and hardware $18k). This got us an open 20’ x 20’ main floor (with 12 feet of 8.5 foot high ceiling and 8 feet of cathedral ceiling), a 12’ x 10’ loft (with a 6 foot high ceiling, just in the middle), a 8’ x 20’ front deck, fully insulated floor and walls and fully vented, steel roof. This also includes interior and exterior spruce siding for all walls and soffits. Keep in mind that the useable square footage is less because of the angled exterior walls.
A-frame design taken from the book Cabins & Cottages published by Fox Chapel Publishing (ISBN 1565239679), available on amazon.ca at:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08V...
The main changes I made to their design was to overhang the roof by 2 feet on the back and 4 feet on the front and to add roof venting from under the cabin straight up to the roof peak.
All materials ordered from (and delivered by) local businesses.
Here is a link to my scanned drawings (they were in pretty bad shape by the time I scanned them...):
www.dropbox.com/s/gf4qg79flfo...
0:00 Introduction
0:01 CAPE BRETON AFRAME BUILD PRELIMINARY SITE VISIT APRIL 1, 2023
0:41 FOUNDATION GRAVEL TO POST, BEAMS
1:33 FOUNDATION STRAIGHTENING, LEVELING, SQUARING, BRACING
2:51 TRUSSES CUTTING ANGLES AND ASSEMBLING JOISTS
4:11 TRIANGLES ASSEMBLING AND RAISING TRIANGLES AND ROOF
4:52 TRIANGLES MORE TRIANGLES AND ROOF SHEATHING
5:56 ROOF SHEATHING, LOFT FLOOR
8:37 ROOF SHEATHING, MEMBRANE, STEEL ROOF
9:32 REST DAY + MAIN FLOOR WORK UNDERSHEATHING, SET UP VENTS, INSULATE
11:17 BACK WALL FRAMED, SHEATHED, TYKEK, WINDOWS, DOOR
11:26 FLOOR AND FRONT WALL FINISHED MAIN FLOOR, STARTED FRAMING FRONT WALL
12:04 LAST DAY FRONT WALL, DECK, FINISHED ROOF - Навчання та стиль
Nice and simple, but most importantly, it looks cost-effective. I ❤️ it! Great job
Thank you! 😊
Great video
Thanks!
The music and the zoom out shot with the drone to show the water was amazing
Absolutely excellent video, and build as well. So much great info. The roof vent system interests me. I look forward to your next video.
Thanks Bob. With the black roof I was worried about condensation, especially in the Spring and Fall, so I figured the safest thing to do was use normal attic venting all the way up the entire roof. With the 2x8 trusses I still had (barely) room for regular 2x6 mineral wool insulation and the vents. I had no idea how to provide the venting at the bottom of the roof, but I think what I did should work fine. The 1/8" hardware cloth should keep any bugs or critters out. In the winter the entire area around the base of the house will be covered with snow, but I think there will still be adequate venting considering how much space there is under the cabin.
This is amazing, great work and thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice, loving the build looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks 👍
Great job!!
Thanks!
Cool build!
Fantastic Job, great narration.
Thank you
Amazing!! This is so inspiring, thank you for sharing
Thanks and you're welcome.
Great video, thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Good job, well down and thank you
Thanks Herb
Nice work! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharpening. Awesome project.
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic work!!! Congratulations!
Thanks!
Craig one day I will build my own A frame house. Its been my dream ever since I first laid eyes on one. I have no construction experience but with videos like yours I can gathering as much information I can. Thank you for sharing such awesome information. FYI love your drawings 🙂
Thanks!
no construction experience that's why. you should rent one out and try living in one for an extended period its a bad design created by the lowest common denominator.
Amazing. I wouldn't think that much work could be done so quickly. What a beautiful job. You certainly spent many hours on the planning process and the amount of product you needed so it was ready as you needed it without any waiting. (Beautiful location too, right on the water. Very nice indeed.)
Thank you. Yes, I spent much more time designing, planning, and arranging materials and delivery than building.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction The effort showed. Hope you were able to enjoy the A-frame the last few months during the summer/fall. Fantastic location by the water.
16:45 to 9@@CraigNakamotoConstruction7707>0i>>⁸80i0ii
Amazing work!
Amazing the scan of the plans!
I would love to understand better the vents that you talk about!
Thanks for documenting this project!
Glad you liked it. The vents are basically the same as attic vents. They allow air to flow under the roof from under the floor to the peak of the roof and out the vented roof cap. Normally the air would flow through the soffits and up through the vents - so this is the same thing except that the soffits are under the cottage. This helps prevent condensation caused by the temperature differential outside and inside the metal roof. There will still be condensation at times, but it will be easily dried off, and if there is enough to drip, it could drip all the way down to the ground.
Great job, I love A frames.
Thanks!
Very cool!! 👋😎👍
Thanks 👍
Beautiful!
Thank you!
If no one else has said it. Welcome to the Island , Love to video, beautiful work!
Thanks! Glad you liked the video.
Great vision. Good execution!
Thanks
Simple and very useful, and oh what a view and location. Jealous, please enjoy.
Thank you, I will
love the "presentation" style tutorial. very nice project...would be great to have access to plans. Nice to have friends helping out as well.
Thanks. I just made drawings on graph paper based on the design in the book (link in description). I did scan them in, and I have just added a link in the description - hopefully it works.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction thank you
Well done
Thank you
I drive through Victoria County almost every day, and never seem to tire of its beauty, and St. Anns is even more special. Nice job.
Thanks, yes it is beautiful.
Very impressive!!
Thanks!
Very nice house... quick build... enjoy.
Thank you!
De lujo gracias por compartir Arquitecto ❤
You're welcome
Лучшее и подробное видео, благодарю вас
пожалуйста
Very nice sir!
Thanks!
Nice work
Thanks
Great job. It’s very difficult working under those time constraints. Great job recording as well!
Thank you
Very good very nice
Thanks!
Nice job Craig, and by the way thanks for making this video minus any music.
Glad you liked it!
I envy northern construction guys! Those guys can work in any conditions!
There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.
Beautiful job Craig. I believe they sell mesh to prevent rodents. Stainless Steel Woven Wire 5 Mesh
Thanks. I used 1/4" hardware cloth which is galavanized steel I think. Very sturdy and small enough to prevent most insects as well.
Very cool. I wanna build one as well
Thanks
Real nice cabin plenty of room
Thanks!
Not cleared out. It is cleared ooooouuut ...your in Canada. Love the video and snow.
Thank you
I and everybody else would love to see how you completed the interior over the past summer.
I did not make very much progress this summer, but I did mostly finish the interior walls. I was going to wait until I get out again and actually make some decent progress.
Great video Graig and really helpful for me. Thanks. My son's small house burnt down recently and I plan on building an A-Frame similar to the one you put up this summer. I live up in the Yukon so I'll follow your plan / and the info from the Cottage book, but I plan on filling the roof channels completely with the rock wool insulation, add 2" of foam board on the outside then strap in vertically and horizontally so there can be air flow under the metal roof. I think that should work? I'll have to check with the building inspectors too.
Thanks, and sorry to hear about your son's house. Your roof insulation plan should increase the r-value quite a bit and also prevent thermal bridging through the trusses. The only small concern is that my roof manufacturer told me that they no longer reccomend using strapping for their metal roof products. This used to be what everyone did though, and I don't understand why it is a problem. I helped build a cottage with a large metal roof 25 years ago and the metal was screwed to strapping and it has been fine through a lot of crazy hot summers and freezing cold, snowy winters. I suppose one concern would be that the strapping might be exposed to a lot of moisture at certain times of the year. Still, if you have good venting - that shouldn't be an issue.
@@CraigNakamotoConstructionThanks Craig! I'm thinking the walls should be about R38 which would be good for this climate. I'll check with the local suppliers for the metal roof / strapping issue. Appreciate the heads up!
A bed upstairs for the winter, a bed downstairs for the summer.
Use the sides under the roof triangle for all your storage needs to shove up everything to the left and right side.
All wood exposed on the outside I'd paint with Urethane, regardless if it's pressure treated or not.
The wood on the inside you could varnish over with a spray gun, to give it a nice warm glow. That's what we did in my log cabin over the particle board. Wear a respirator of course, it's a sticky mess until dry, but boy does it look fantastic.
ua-cam.com/video/VC-4kaYf0HY/v-deo.html
Thanks, yes we started coating the exterior and will coat it all. I am planning to leave the inside as bare wood. It is all spruce and I don't mind the look for now.
Hello Craig, thank you for the excellent video. I would love to have a description of the tools you used and their brand. Looking forward to another video from you. Best
Also thank you for sharing the book you used.
Thanks! Apart from basic non-powered hand tools, I used a cordless M18 Milwaukee drill, driver, circular saw, and framing nailer. The Milwaukee gear worked really well, there is a photo of all the tools I used at the beginning of the video. I have several large batteries and I never had any issues working all day. Just had to charge all the batteries at night, and keep swapping them out on the charger during the day. The framing nailer is a game-changer for getting things done fast - but it is heavy. Many builders will not believe that all the cuts were made with a cordless circular saw, but the latest cordless saws are amazing and I didn't have anything else with me.
Очень крутой участок)
Thanks, yes it is pretty cool.
This is fantastic! I'd love to build something like this (or have it built) on our 26 acres by Peggy's Cove.
Thanks, that sounds like a great location too!
Any interest in selling off a tiny piece of your land? I’m a student in bedford with family in tantallon and I’m looking for some inexpensive land to escape the rent crisis here. Hope to hear back :)
@@PistonPerspective I bet you could get 27 Big Lake Drive for about $40k. It’s been listed for a few months now. Less than 30 min from Halifax.
I built this exact model myself. If you have a tall extension ladder you can use a pulley to get the sheathing up from the ground. It goes really fast.
Cool, I hope yours turned out as well (or better) then mine! Good tip about the pulley, I hadn't thought of that.
I really appreciate you sharing your build experience. I am looking for a buildable design for my South Carolina property. Amazing progress for 16 days of effort! I will have the same air travel challenge with the tools. Did you submit plans for the build? How rigorous was the process for the self build plans being approved?
I don't know how it works in the US. Here in Canada it is based on your municipality. Where I live the permit process is long, painful, and expensive. Where I built this aframe; however, there are no bylaws so it is much simpler. You still have to comply with the national building code, but as long as your plans have been reviewed by a structural engineer it is pretty simple and cheap. It depends entirely on what the rules and practices are in your jurisdiction. I talked to the building inspector and some local trades people before I started to get the details.
Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing your plans and progress. Do you have any issues with the pads being on the top of the soil instead of below the frost line? No buckling or sagging! Thanks. God bless!
Thanks and you are welcome. No problems with buckling or sagging yet. We built on frozen ground in April but we were back in August and everything still looked good. I will post another update next year and will include any details then. I think it really depends on your soil composition and how much you disturb the topsoil. It is mostly sand and rock where we built, so the drainage is excellent. Of course, it is always better to put in proper foundations below the frost line.
That's a Cape Breton spring alright.
Amazing video & a great resource for information. Bravo
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome... Impressive build in 11 days.... Q: how did you find the land to build on? beautiful ocean or big lake view...
Thanks! The land was gifted to us - so we didn't have to find it.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Happy for you.. The sweetest gift...
Great video Craig, I’m in construction and the amount of work you did in 11 days was awesome. How did you fasten the bottom of the rafter/floor joist to the triple? Good luck on finishing your project and looking forward to the next video..
Thanks! The bottom of the triangles are toe-nailed in to the beams and I used hurricane ties to attach many of them to all three beams. Not particularly useful considering that the beams are not secured to any kind of fixed foundation piers or anchors. I may add some ground screw anchors to prevent lift - although I am fairly certain that the location is very protected from wind. The cliff facing the ocean pushes all of the wind up and over the aframe. From the south the aframe is protected by a large hill and forest. Most of the days when I was there in the spring we had some crazy wind off the ocean and, at the aframe, you could hear it howling through the tops of the trees, but none at ground level.
Excellent, so the bottom of the aframe is a 2×10 acting as floor joists sitting directly on the beams?
Actually, I did say 2x10 once in the video and have not figured out how to fix that. The three beams are triple 2x10s, but the sadwiched floor joists (bottom of the triangles) are just 2x6 boards. So tops of the triangles are 2x8x20 and they are sandwhiched on the bottom by two 2x6x20 boards for each triangle.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Yes, I saw that upon closer watching of the video. I hope you make more videos showing the completion of the build!👍
Nice loft.
What directional axis is front and back cabin? Looks east-west(?).
Not too late for auger foundation tie downs.
Hey, did i miss what you're doing for heat?
Thanks. The front of the a-frame points north-east - but it was situated in the most sheltered area on the lot and I pointed it directly at the best view. I have thought about the auger tie-downs. I am just putting in a small heat pump, it takes almost nothing to heat the place. I also have a small HRV to install. We borrowed a tiny ceramic heater when we were there in May, once it was closed up, and that was all we needed for sleeping. It was going down to about zero degrees Celsisus at that time.
Been trying to find a A-frame build for months finally came on on yours. Love it. Plan to start building very soon.
First question wall venting is that in every 2 foot space or just one on each side down the middle ?
Very cool!!
Download your sketches too
Never mind I think I found it as I was scrolling down
Venting is along the entire roof, every two foot space - even over the deck.
Hi Craig I’ve decided to insulate on the exterior side and vent after my layers of ploly insulation and membrane. Have 5 more triangles to put up yet.
Slow process one guy
Let us know if this shifts and twists, just in case others might want to attempt something similar. Best of luck! Cheers.
Will do!
I just went out again and everything is still nice and level. Probably need to wait a few years to see if it really stays that way though. I built when the ground was frozen solid (beginning of April), and now it is August and the ground has been thawed for three months and there has been plenty of rain.
Hey, congrats on getting all your comments back. #MyA-frameBuildLikeYours.
Thanks, this video got so much traffic I qualified to monetize. So I set that up and discovered that a song that was playing on our bluetooth speaker, on the short real-time video clip, was a copyright infringement so I remixed my video to remove that, but then discovered that you cannot replace a video and keep the comments / stats. I hid this one and published the other but then decided I didn't care and just turned this one back on.
do you have plans for the build you could share? Cape Breton is beautiful, love the black roof choice.
See the description for details.
Nice build currently working on planning my build where did you get your standing seam roof ?? Thanks
Thanks, BML Metals in Margaree, NS: www.bmlmetals.com/
Very nice place. It must be a great sense of accomplishment when it's completely closed in. What are the roof/side member lumber dimensions? Metric is fine.
Thanks. The sides of the triangles are 2"x8" dimensional lumber, 20 feet long, but I couldn't get 20 foot boards, so I used a 16' and 4' board for each side.
Was the plywood on the underside of the floor pressure treated? Great build ive watched this vid so many times! Very helpful for my little project.
No, the plywood on the underside is just regular 1/2" spruce plywood. It should never (or very rarely) get wet.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the reply! That would mean your joists aren't PT either eh? Makes sense as everything looks quite above the soil. How tall are the posts approximately? Fellow east coaster here! NB
Just the beams and posts are PT, nothing else. The ground is not flat here, so the posts all vary in height from about 10" to 20".@@mikeland495
Very good video. You have a good voice for narration and whoever put the video together did a great job.
Not sure if you’re a carpenter by trade, but if you aren’t you should be. You and your friends did in 2 weeks what I’ve been doing for 2 years. 😂😂😂
Thanks for your kind words. Carpentry is a hobby for me - but I really enjoy it.
Great video. I know it’s like code to allow air in at the bottom of the roof and allow air ti flow out the top, but why? Mold? All that insulation and now we have to let cold air go thru the roof/walls? I might put 1/2” standoffs all the way up between the joists and use foam board on the standoffs. There’s a 1” pocket for the air to go through or, I might wait until after inspection and then stop the air flow. Haha
Thanks! Proper ventilation is not just for code. It is very important and complicated. You can have all sorts of problems if you don't manage water. Mold and rot are a huge pain to deal with later. I think the easiest way to avoid this issue is to use spray foam on the backside of the roofing. This was not an option for me because I was doing my best to stay with natiural materials. Every house is different though, it depends on your local environment. In this case, the ventilation will really help keep the house cooler in the summer (because the black roof will get very hot in the sun and all the hot air, and potentially condensation, on the underside of the roof will rise up through the vents) but in the winter it will reduce the same warmth from helping to keep the house warm. I did lose 2" of possible insulation, but the knowledge that any condensation would have an easy exit path and the cooling effect in the summer outweighed that for my case.
I'm building a tiny A-Frame in my yard. My question is how did you attach the triangular frames to the beams? I don't want it to blow away. :)
I used hurricane ties (www.homedepot.ca/product/simpson-strong-tie-h2-5a-18-gauge-zmax-galvanized-hurricane-tie/1000152530) - cheap but effective.
Amazing, do you have a material cost list and all in cost... would love to do this project somewhere in Ontario..
I only have some worksheets, but no final material list. It was just under $40k (I just added up all my credit card costs - see breakdown in description) in Nova Scotia, probably a bit chepaer in Ontario (I live in Ontario). The materials depend heavily on what you want and where you can buy them. For example, I couldn't get 20 foot lengths of 2x6 and 2x8 boards for the triangles, but in most of Ontario you can. Makes the build much easier. You will probably want to use a local company for windows and the roof. Most people will not want to use rough milled lumber for siding either. Also I used plywood for everything, and most people would use OSB - a lot cheaper. I also purchased very expensive doors - $760+tax which were unnecessary - but I that is what I wanted. If you have basic carpentry skills this is a relatively easy project. The book in the description explains most of the details.
Just to see if i got it right:
- The 3 longitudinal beams are double 2x10s?
- The base of the triangle is double 2x6s with a spacer?
- The side of the triangle is a 2x8 sandwiched between the base?
Correct, except that the 30 foot beams are actually made of tripled pressure treated 2x10 boards.
i love this style of building. do you think it would be possible to build if you were alone? i dont have friends. do you have to deal with building inspections?
You could build an a-frame this size with just one person. You would just have to create some kind of system to raise the triangles, and you would have to avoid the big triangular windows at the top of the end walls - or just use smaller windows. Those were the only parts of the job that required two people. Other tasks were easier with two people, but manageable with one. There is no reason you couldn't use some ropes and a hand winch to raise the triangles by yourself.
Good thing that that cottage is portable, with the looks of that eroding bluff
I don't think we have anything to worry about. The erosion is very gradual (based on the last 20 years) and the cottage is more than 100 feet from the edge. Also, the cottage is not portable.
The little twinkling lights are not twinkling Clark” Christmas Vacation.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction I have a place on Lake Erie, near Chatham. The bluffs usually erode a couple of feet per year. The last four year, with high water, we have seen ten feet per year.
I installed a steel retaining wall and lifted my place four feet.
We could move your beautiful cottage in a day. You have nothing to worry about. I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Stephen - good to know. I have thought about the best way to tackle the erosion. My current idea is to build some terraces and plant trees, shrubs, and gardens on them. A lot of work though...
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction you're on the right track. Grasses work wonders.
The best thing would be two jetties, they're perfect for accumulation of sand
what if water leaks in the floor insulation? what would you think about 1/2" hardware cloth (metal screen, in stead of plywood)? was it 1/2" ply underside and 3/4" on top? thanks great video!
Thanks, yes it was 1/2" ply on the underside and 3/4" on the floor, and 5/8" on the roof. Hardware cloth should work too, not sure what the cost difference would be. I think the 1/4" hardware cloth I used for the vents was pretty expensive. Easier because you could just staple it on. Right now, if water did leak into the floor from above, there is nothing to stop it from flowing through and out the bottom at all edges of the 1/4" plywood, and through the 1/4" hardware cloth roof vents along each side of the aframe - which should help dry out any moisture in the floor insulation (since it is a continuous run from side to side (vent to vent).
Hi - awesome video, thanks! You said the end walls are not load bearing but you still put in header's for the windows (and maybe door?). Why did you do that if they are not load bearing?
Thanks and you are welcome. My friend Frankie was helping on those two days, and he was already finished the first two window openings before I even thought about it. He is an experienced builder and frames walls in his sleep. That is one part of the project I did not plan out, because they are just regular walls. I do not know what the code states for non-load bearing exterior walls - maybe you still need to do all of that. It certainly will not hurt.
Enjoyed the video. I always ask people why an A frame though and never get a good answer. To me it's half the volume of a rectangle house given the same foundation, and you get awkward wall angles. Is it cheaper or faster to build maybe?
I think it is easier to build, faster to build (the roof takes care of two exterior walls), and it is a very strong design - much stronger than a rectangular build. I don't think it is much cheaper to build considering the useable square footage. However, I think the real answer is that an a frame has a very different look and feel - and some people like that. The angles are awkward but beautiful.
There is no good answer. Some people just like them, despite their drawbacks.
You never have to worry about snow building up on your roof in a Northern climate either.
Cheaper, faster, more structurally sounds, half the space to heat. Also just because the outside is aframe shaped doesn't mean you cant create areas of flat Walls through framing. Overall I think it's just a personal preference some people don't like the cookie cutter look especially when in nature.
how's the A frame coming along? Hope to see more videos soon
Right now I don't have much time. I made it out last month and we finished the paneling in the interior and put some wood preservative on the outside siding. I also installed a pump and an outdoor kitchen, but I didn't even have time to work on trim or anything else. Probably won't have time to really work on the project until next spring.
Great build. Does the 20x20 floor size include the deck or is that just the interior?
20x20 is the inside floor space, there is a 2x20 ledge on the back and a 8' deck on the front (4' which is under the roof, and 4' which is not covered by the roof). So the footprint of the entire structure, including the decks, is 20'x30'
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Very cool. This is exactly what I've been thinking of building.
Great video. Can you give me an idea of the cost of the material? Plus what are the foundation / floor dimensions
Foundation is 20 feet by 30 feet (inside floor dimensions are 20 x 20 + 8 foot deck on front and 2 foot deck on back) and cost is in the video description.
Wow, excellent work and it looks amazing, what did the total cost of everything come to after?
See video description for cost breakdown
What would be the maximum length of a soft wood floor joist 4cm by 30 cm (30 being vertical), wich would not bend ?
This is a question for an engineer and I think it would depend on a lot of different factors. I believe that there are recommended beam span tables in the Canadian wood-frame house construction Guide (publications.gc.ca/site/eng/9.700100/publication.html).
need that in inches....
@@peterjohnson617 2 inch by 12 inch soft wood, 12 being vertical, the max. length that would not bend without any support in the middle ?
(1) How are the triangles secured to the outer beams? I see what look like hurricane ties for the center beam, but nothing for the outer beams. (2) Are the cross supports underneath flexed around each other? This seems to put stress on the screws and could lead to cracking later on.
The bottom corners of the triangles are nailed to the beams and there are supposed to be hurricane ties on each side as well, but I didn't put them on every triangle. The cross supports are not flexed around each other - there was no reason to do that. If I was doing it again, I would definitely put hurricane ties on both sides of every triangle.
For a cabin in the woods, maybe an A frame is a good idea. It's simple to build.
However, for something more permanent, on a solid foundation, I would recommend a different design. That is because you lose so much square footage when your walls are angling inward. That is especially true on the second floor. Those angled walls create a lot of unusable corner areas at the base of the walls.
There are a lot of other designs that will give you the same square footage as your foundation, on both floors.
It may not be as simple as that. As mentioned in previous comments, there are more factors to consider: the cost per useable square foot (taking in to account materials and labour) is cheaper for an A frame, The A frame roof is considerably better at shedding snow and handling excessive snow loads, some people prefer the aesthetics of a triangular design, and there is less space to heat - even for the "useable" square footage. They are not for everyone, but a lot of people seem to get hung up on the "useable" space. Just make your A frame bigger if you need more space. I don't think the cost for the foundation on a building this size will make a significant difference.
Very nice job
Oh, the Amazon link did not work.... Can you double check it?
thanks
m
Thanks Mike. I figured out how to make the link work - let me know if you still have trouble. It is not an affiliate link, I don't make any money from Amazon or UA-cam.
That triangular loft window sets it off nicely mate, brilliant build.
😉 From a carpenter brother in Adelaide, South Australia 🤜🏽💥🤛🏽
Great work. Do you mind if I ask, about how much did all the materials cost you?
All of the costs are in the description, just click ...more
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction ty
You are not afraid that defrost can affect the leveling?
I am a bit worried about that, but the ground is almost entirely sand and rock (with a bit of topsoil) - so it shouldn't be too bad. It should be relatively easy to readjust if necessary with a big jack and some patience. I hate concrete and I thought about screw piles, but the ground was still frozen solid when I built.
I would think you need to dig to hard pan to avoid uneven settlement? I guess you can jack it up and put better support in only if required?
Yes, really should have a proper foundation with footings that go below the frost line. Yes, I figured I can adjust it if needed. FIrst summer, and it is still level.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Isn't that required by code?
Probably, but it may depend on the soil type.@@jimmydoo
No sunk posts for the foundation? I'm only at 2:29 so you might explain why later, but curious about the design decision.
Reasons I did not put in a proper foundation: the ground was frozen when I had the opportunity to build, I hate concrete, the cabin is completely sheltered from the wind off the ocean, and there are a lot of cottages and cabins in the same area that are built the same way I did it and they are fine. I wanted to use screw piles, but I could not use them in the frozen ground (I verified with the manufacturer). I am planning to put some screw piles in this year.
at the 7’ 00 i saw that you don’t put anithing to stable the A’s. Did you use something to keep the A’s stability After raise all of them?
We just kept screwing on temporary 2x4s across the triangles as we raised them. As we attached the sheathing, we removed the 2x4s. You could add permanent braces but since I was using solid plywood I did not think it was necessary. After the plywood sheathing, metal roof and interior boards are attached it is virtually impossible that the triangles will move. The triangles did seem a bit unstable in the wind once we were half done, so I added some extra temporary strapping along the loft joists as well - but we also removed that when we installed the loft floor sheathing (solid 3/4 ply).
WOW! I just had my land clear in Charlottesville and need to do the same thing! So you spent $40k in materials, Could a kit for a A frame the same size been purchased for about the same price do you think?
Yes, $40k cdn (~$30k us). I did not look at kits. I imagine that it would cost more for a kit - but I don't know for sure.
Great video! So in American dollars it would be around 30k in materials. Got me thinking 🤔. Thank you!!!
You're welcome
What are the advantages and disadvantages of your 400 sq ft A frame vs traditional house/garage framing with a truss roof to handle heavy snow loads ?
It is quicker and easier to build, and able to handle heavier snow loads with less lumber. I don't think there is a stronger design than the simple triangle.
I would have liked more info on the footers. Did you have to dig real deep - and was the ground frozen?
There are no footers. I built this on top of the lawn because the ground was frozen solid. There is a bit of gravel, a 2'x2' patio stone and a 6x6 deck block. This is not reccommended - you should definitely put footings in below the frost line and/or screw piles. This cabin is still level after the thaw (I was there in August) but I may have to adjust the posts as needed depending on any future frost heaving. Many of the cottages and cabins built in the area do not have foundations, and they have been around for decades without any major problems. The ground is primarily sand and rock. Where I live in Muskoka, Ontario, Canada (on the Canadian Shield) it is also safe to build smaller cabins on top of undisturbed soil - as long as you are over sand and rock (not clay). One log cabin in our family stood for over 40 years and stayed level the entire time. It had piles of rocks for a foundation. It depends entirely on the land and weather.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction - Thanks for the explanation. That's kind of what it looked like. Looks cozy all the same.
Круто,
Can you use roofing battens on top of the Tyvek and then fix the roofing sheets to that so there is airflow rather than have the ventilation design you use here? I'm not saying there is anything wrong with it. However, I am about to build my first A fame and have used the batten method before on other builds and it works well so I'm just more comfortable sticking to a method I know. Is there a reason you did it the way you did here that I should be aware of?
The previous metal roofs that I have installed were also on battens, but according to the roofing manufacturer, they no longer recommend the use of battens with metal roofs. That is why I did it the way I did it. In this case, the metal roofing sheets were only about 10" wide, so I would have had to have a batten every 10" along the entire roof - which is a lot. I can't imagine it is an issue either way. You would need the battens to be vertical, otherwise the condensation could pool on the battens.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the Reply Craig I really appreciate you taking the time. I've been building garden rooms so fairly small structures with verticle walls and using double battens with the ones on the Tyvek running vertically and then another set running horizontally on top of them (this way the cables can be run outside). taking that into account the 10" spacing would not be an issue and there would be no pooling of condensation either.
However, I think your method looks like less work and might even be cheaper. Can you tell me how it has been performing and are there any issues? also, did you come up with this method yourself or does it have a name / is there somewhere I can read more about it?
Once again thank you for your time and I really like your build!
@@quizkraftstudio You're welcome. The baffles I used are what you often find in attics under the roof. Just google 'attic baffles' for tons of info. SInce the "roof" of an aframe runs all the way to the ground, the only novel idea I had was to add screeneed vents under the cottage that provide air in to the baffles. It is just the same thing you would do on a conventional roof, but you would have soffit vents along the bottom. Based on all of my research, nothing beats a ridge vent. I have not spent enough time out at my aframe to let you know how it is performing, but I will be there all of July and then I will post an update.
How much did the project cost in materials? I'm looking into a potential option of buying an empty property and building out a small house.
Cost breakdown is in the description.
Hey man. This is awesome. How can I go about getting info on doing this kind of work first hand? Do you know any communitites or any info would be useful really. I'm a trainee joiner and want hands on experience so any thtoughts are welcome. Many thanks.
Steve
Thanks Steve! There are countless videos on youtube that demonstrate carpentry skills - but hands-on experience is the best. I was lucky enough to grow up with a father who taught me a lot of carpentry, and then I also helped my brother build multiple homes alonside experienced trades people who were happy to teach me. My general advice is try to find opportunities where you can help someone else building a structure so that you can learn hands-on. Then start with small projects until you feel ready.
Gotcha. Just got to try to luck-out and find the right project at the right time.
Thanks for ypur thoughts and stay in tpuch 😊
May i ask the reason you used Irish flute music.
The original video had no narration and I should have probably just removed the music when I added the narration. I thought the celtic music was appropriate because the a-frame is in Cape Breton.
Unfortunately we can't get your book in the US. Amazon refuses to ship it to the States. The drawings are great though. Thank you.
Thanks for letting me know, that is unfortunate!
Would you be interested in coming to alberta and building one of those for me ? I’ll help you and could probably get a few more guys to help also :)
Perfectly level on frozen ground. hehehe not for long
Not very hard to relevel this sort of structure after the ground thaws each Spring. Many homes in the north are built on this sort of pier foundation for exactly this reason. Even if you place a deep, full-coverage foundation, frost heaves will move or crack the concrete, and it will be more difficult and expensive to repair than a pier system.
@@Madsynth1987 I guess you may be right if shoddy work is done. me old man built a 1700 sq ft house in central Newfoundland in 1971, never a problem with the basement. I lived in Summerside in a house built in the 50's never a problem, same as the house I lived in Dartmouth. About 20 years ago in Miramichi I helped my friend build a 20 x 30 shed, cement half 4 feet wall in the ground never a problem. About the only place I've seen where something had to be floating on ground is up in the NWT on the tundra, where the surface move independent of the permafrost
@@mazdarx7887 It's really location dependent. Like I said, many homes are built this way up north. Not all though. Just depends on soils, climate, and intent for the structure. You are totally correct in that if frost heaves are not an issue, a poured foundation would be fine.
@@Madsynth1987 You keep saying up north, how far up north. I spent two years in Labrador and except for a trappers hut or a kids camp everything has a dug foundation of some sort. Even up in Frobisher Bay(Iqaluit) they build on dug foundations. If it were built like houses were built in Nfld before confederation, it wouldn't need a foundation, but it's not
You're right about that. Where we built the frost line is 7.5 feet down, and getting a cement truck out there wasn't going to happen. There are others within a mile of us, and they built on 2 plus feet of gravel, and their cabins have been up for years with no issues.
Any idea roughly what materials cost up to this point ? I am in PEI and would love to do the same
Steve, the breakdown is in the video description. About $38k all-in if you don't include my travel costs.
Very impressive! Great job building the A frame and making the video! I'm looking for someone who can build one for me in Maine US. Are you interested? Thank you!
Thanks! No I am not interested - way too busy!