Your videos are so comprehensive. I am so astounded that your videos have the answers so perfectly described and SHOWN, which is invaluable for someone like me who needs to see it. You have really helped bump up my game already. Wholly underrated channel
I've sufffered a bit from painters block during the last few months. A few weeks ago I started watching your hobby cheating vids. They got me back into painting, and because of the stuff I learned, my level of painting has drastically increased. Thanks a lot man!
Hi Vince! I just wanted to let you know that you're doing an amazing job with those videos. I was in the Hobby around 97/02, and I'm back at it. At that time the only advices and teachings I could get was from our small local club or White Dwarf. I just discovered your videos and channel; this so inspiring, the way you explain your thinking process is so much insightful compared to "First do this, then do that Tutorials". Your pedagogical skills are definitely inciting me to step up my game. Thank you for your passion!
Hey Vince, this tutorial popped up after your recent Q&A. Perfect in regards to my question...after experimenting (while this video was playing) with my FW inks, medium, and warcolor paints to create a "contrast" paint...lol well...it was really cool the way this spoke to all the problems I was having in real time regarding "pooling" and "wash" consistencies that just did not work as cleanly over my zenithal prime. Found myself brushing things out a lot and basically worked these experiments into a "glaze" where the control and effect was finally what I was going for. Exactly what this Guide to Value Sketching speaks too. Thanks again!
I love the look I get from value sketching for TMM. That said, your contrast paint video encouraged me to try this for colors, and I'm having fun with it so far.
I have been throwing paint on miniatures since I was a kid. Now I am very very much not a kid but have more time to do hobbies than I used to. I have been so confused because I was at the brink of changing styles from the base wash drybrush and edge with some blending thrown in but didnt know how to make the leap. Because I didn't know that this technique was available. Now however! Im thrilled. I will not use any other technique again to start. Yes I will still dry brush and edge and blend but this just makes them all lock together sooo much more effectively than what I thought the next step was which was layering. No thanks... So thanks a bunch!
Your videos are terrific and they are really helping me learn to paint. Thank you. Also blowing on the mini to dry paint is a revolution. I can't believe you casually dropped a bomb like that 20 minutes in.
That was *really* helpful and informative. I've been watching painting videos these past two months (or more), starting to feel like I've seen everything, but today, I learned something new. I appreciate the level of detail on how you explain and demonstrate what you're doing (even how you wick off excess paint from the brush!). Thank you and keep em' coming!
Great technique its going to make it easier to highlight while im learning how to glaze properly. Again thanks heaps Vince you make it all seem so easy
I think this will solve my problem with a blue cloak I was having trouble with. It kept going too stark one way or the other. I was about to re prime and start over but I think I can bring it back with some glazing after watching this. I just can't stop watching these tutorial videos!
this appears to be a more 'controlled' style of zenithal... meaning not such a blanket coverage excellent as always, Thanks Mr Venturella... my painting has improved by leaps since watching your vids
Thanks for the fantastic video. This finally made it click with me just what the strength of those initial zenithal highlights is and how to add to it with this value sketching.
Ton Loc says thank you for remembering him. ;) Love the videos Vince. I like your way of explaining through your work. I will be sharing this and your channel with others who are getting into the hobby.
First, we can never forget our pioneers of pop rap. Second, thank you, I am glad this was helpful and sharing with others is always deeply appreciated. :)
@@VinceVenturella I think that if we can recall him, kinda means we're old. BUT, we did have some sweet tunes to rock out to. I have been into GW stuff since the mid-80s and have recently decided to aim at either a Demon or Crystal Brush in the next few years. Thank you for the informative videos and the nuggets of knowledge. For someone who hasn't taken classes, you understand the tools of color and composition well sir. :)
Great video. I’ll be giving this technique a try soon. I prefer high contrast for my board game minis, so this should help me speed up the painting process.
Excellent, this is a wonderful technique for board game minis, because they usually don't ned to be display pieces and it lets you get them done quickly.
Love your videos, Vince. Thanks for making so many great resources for the hobby. Is there a way to take advantage of value sketching when using metallic paints? I've never tried thinning one down to a glaze consistency before but I feel like it might not work too well from diluting the concentration of the metallic flakes. Any tips on how to apply the value sketching technique to silvers/golds?
Yep, you can, though in general, you want a good metal paint - I have multiple videos on metal paints and quality. That being said, let's take something like steel. You could lay down the steel, then sketch in the shadows with matte black paint and the highlights with silver paint. You could then smooth out from there with either glazes or controlled mixed layers.
Fantastic work that answered my question of painting white and black first and then adding color. Will I be able to do this with Acrylics or do I need thinned down inks? I'm using vallejo by the way since they're the best.
Another brilliant video, though you're inadvertently adding to my modeling backlog, as I'm increasingly feeling the need to dig out some of my old un-built kits and have a go! Though I'll watch the zenithal highlighting video first :)
Thanks for a great video! Very useful. I do have a question though. I am paining a large figure, a T-Rex from Gotham City Chronicles. I wanted to paint the underbelly a pretty light color, definitely significantly lighter than the top skin. Do I still leave it primed black even though I want a light color there?
Great as always.! I have got a question: if I want to preserve the red and don’t want to get a more pink color like in this example, I could use a color like mojave white instead of a „pure“ white for the sketching right? Are the color „aged white“ from you warm zenithal video and „mojave white“ kind of the same for this? Could I use either of those colors for sketching if I want to paint red later? Sry for the long question.
Yo Vince. Thanks once again. Awesome vid! Quick Q if you have a sec. I'm about to start a 75mm Sioux hunter in traditional animal hide clothes So will be a blend of cream tones, browns, ohcre etc etc. I like this value sketch technique and cool to hear how it doesn't have to be just black for shadows. I guess I need to learn more which colours interact best on top of others but my question is........ For the Sioux clothing would it be an idea to use a dark blacky red or dark green for the shadows of it? Ty!
My honest answer is you could use either. It depends on where you intend to go from there technique wise. That being said, the deeper reds with some blue/black mixed in is probably the easiest and most direct route for your shadows.
Hey vince! Do you think you could make a video about cleaning up models? From sprue to prime ready. I know it's simple and basic but I feel like it's one of those things that I could be doing wrong in some ways and not know it.
Vince, I am still rather new to painting so I was wondering. Different techniques have different uses and preferable cases I guess. When to use layering, value sketching, glazing, standard wetblending etc.? Is there a chance you would make pros and cons for each of these and when would they be aplicable? I have Mightly Skullcrushers to paint, basecoated/primed red. I am wondering which methods to ude in painting them. For example, typically, it would be red + leadbelcher then these areas covered twice with nuln oil. I do't want to spendtoo much time but I defo want more than tabletop quality.
it's tricky, for the most part, you can use any of the techniques at any time, now some of them have applicability in certain scenarios for display pieces, but the reality is for gaming stuff when you are aiming above tabletop quality, you can pretty much use any of them to get where you want. That being said, I did make a video recently (#200) that talks more deeply about general techniques and their applicability.
@@VinceVenturella Hey Vince, thank you for replying. I mostly buy minis to paint them. Gaming is secondary so my army-in-the-making is being brought to life slowly because of that. I would lioe to save some time on certain pieces, that's for sure. Btw, any way to avoid coffee staining with a wash? Like adding a medium or something?
Vince, opacity appears to be the Achilles heel of this technique, which poses a problem for me: I want to paint up a board game mini with a large robe, but I want his final mid-tone and highlight colors to be Warcolours' Emerald 2 and Emerald 1, respectively. Glazing over zenithal seems to only be effective when working with darker, translucent colors. How do you work around the limitations this places on color choices and actually finish models in lighter colors using value sketches? I'd hate to think that when doing this I am limited to only my 4s and 5s and inks. (Nothing against inks. It's just that I only have one small set; so again I find myself stuck to a limited palette.) For that matter, how would you do this with a color like blue-gray, where even the 4 and 5 are fairly opaque?
So a few thoughts. 1) The darker colors put over bright white, will look a lot like the brighter colors. 2) What I tend to do is take those brighter colors and apply them as a layer in the highlight area, but more than just the area I am trying to highlight. Then I come back in and glaze with the darker color over the "extra" highlight to create the midtone at the same time. 3) You can glaze with those colors. It's more difficult, but if you mix them with a little medium you should be able to make them smooth and avoid chalkiness.
This has literally just changed the whole game for me. I have 20 drukhari warriors to paint in blacks/purples and pinks, I'll need to reprime them and zenithal and then sketch in those highlights and shadows...but this will speed everything up so much!
Are there colors that would not work well using the Payne's Grey Ink to deepen the shadows? It seems like browns and oranges would also work well with PGI.
Generally, Payne's grey is a great universal shadow. Now technically cold colors should have warm shadows (more of a deep crimson) so in that case probably not. That being said, when I do completely cold paint jobs, I use it with cold colors and it works great.
Great video. Could one use the inks to paint an entire mini, say skin, armor, fur, cloth? Also could you do a video on brushes? Like I've recently gotten some Broken Toad brushes and I love them, but people are still trying to sell me on the Windsor & Newton Series 7, but I'm not sure if they're worth the price tag if I can get some of similar quality for less money. I'd like to see your critique on W&N, Broken Toad, Citadel, The Army Painter, Back 2 Base IX, Games and Gears, Rosemary, or maybe just some of your preferred brushes. Kind of like how you did for the paint lines. Thanks.
1) Yep, you absolutely can use inks for the whole mini. I teach classes on it at conventions, but I also have a video here - ua-cam.com/video/1YdY7GlwKQc/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=78 2) If you like the Broken Toad, then you're likely good. I have done a video on brushes (not comparing across the all the brands, but I give mention to it as well as care - link below). So as long as we are talking a real sable brush, then W&N, Broken Toad, Rafael, Scarff, Da Vinci, they are all pretty much doing the same job. The differences are very minor and largely to do with the spring and belly size, so it's often more of a matter of personal taste and painting style. Broken toad for example are very soft and have a low spring, W&N have a higher spring (the tension on he bristles to return to the their natural position). With nice brushes (sable brushes) as long as you have some around for the tough work they are needed for, you are good. Here is the vid - ua-cam.com/video/dTqK28W-NEY/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=68
Great bid... I just recently found the power of white inks... Question pls: Is there any need ever to use white PAINT when you can use white INK, which does not go chalky and flows much better? Thanks
Yes, white paint still is more opaque and stick a little better. I often mix a little white paint into the white ink to get it to adhere and be a stronger color overall when I want a really strong white.
A well explain, solid tutorial, thanks for your work. And an other suggestion for a futur hobby cheating, you talk about it a lot but i don't remember a hobby cheating about "how to use the chromatic wheel"
So I have an early one about color theory. It's still something probably worth revisiting. - ua-cam.com/video/pVb4jiig0zo/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=22
So i just rewatch the video and i think i doesn't point out the topic i have in mind, i was thinking more about how to chose the right shading color, like in this video where you blue/black shading for the red armor or on the gem video when you use red for the blue gem
Vallejo German Panzer Grey is my first layer (my near black), Badger Stynelrez white is my go to, thinned and built up in thin layers toward full white.
Hi Vince. I'm new to painting, and i've never tried zenithal highlighting, so I wanted to ask if I have to zenithal coat my figure for this to work or can I do it directly on a black only figure with white paint?
Is it necessary to wash miniatures after I cut them off the sprue? I read that they have release agent on them so need a good clean before applying primer; I just ruined 3 Necrons trying to wash them as they are so delicate and I have to do it one handed, it's quite a fight! Would an ultrasonic cleaner suffice?
Thanks again for your video. I have a couple of questions though : Do you thin your black and white inks with water or glazing medium? With this technique, could you glaze TMM or do you need to stick with NMM for armour and weapons?
For most cases, I think it with water alone, though you can certainly use medium as well. I am not a fan of glazing metallics over matte, my general feeling is you have to start from a solid coat there, but I know Matt Dipietro does it all the time with his sketch style and he's a better artist than me. :) With TMM weapons, I go more traditional and end up getting a solid metallic coat and then working in value sketches with inks and bright metallics (usually silver) from there.
Question: Can you do a black wash over the zenethil, prior to applying any color? My thought here, is that when i get done doing zenethil transitions with the greys, i'll want to do a quick wash, so that i'm getting those nooks and crannies facing the top of the model, accurately shaded.
Awesome! Now I'm playing with the thought of starting AOS just because I now can quickpaint an army. I'd love to see how you achieve a much more redfish red instead of pinkish red. Would you sketch the volumes with yellow? A tutorial I really like to see is one about glass, bottles etc.
Sure, so with those, you can still use white, just make it a warm white, or yellow/brown ivory at the top and make the low colors dark browns. I have a video on it here - ua-cam.com/video/rFDHpVJiNC0/v-deo.html&index=130
Hi Vince, great work and suggestions again. While looking at this video, I thought if you have any video (if not it would be a good suggestion IMO) for fast painting huge amount of small minis and maybe this would do it. I was think more about minis in War of the Ring, but since they are so many on the board and small, I think this technique might be to much for them. Any suggestion on how to do a War of the Ring like painting as fast as possible? Thanks :)
I have several speed painting videos (here is one - ua-cam.com/video/1YdY7GlwKQc/v-deo.html) in short though, if they are really small scale, zenithal, drybrush white and then use inks in glaze form to get your colors.
what i dont get is the way you create the glazes in no time. you have always super thin glazes, but they still show their color perfectly with 1 coat. i tried it yesterday with a light blue layer paint from GW. after thining it down i had to make 3-4 coats to even see the color barely... should i perhaps not use the layer paints? only the base paints for the glaze? i have to try it out more i guess (just startet with zenithal HL and glazing) - great video as always thank you
So three things. 1) Not all paint brands are created equal for glazing. I use Scale 75 for most of my glazes, and they are far more pigment rich than GW. Meaning I can take them far more thin and retain their ability to provide color. 2) Always remember, darker colors glaze better than light and you always want to try to be glazing over lighter colors. Glazes have a larger impact on lighter colors. 3) You want to play with your thinness, things like layers are already quite thin, so you may not need to take them as thin to get a glaze consistency.
Excellent, once you get down how thin your glazes and other items should be, you can paint figures really fast with this method and still have wonderful contrast for the tabletop.
It's something I use so regularly, even if you end up covering most of the color with later layers, it makes the miniature so much easier to see detail and understand your highlights. :)
@@VinceVenturella I've been thinking about this technique since posting, I call this "Taking Zenithol to the next level". It's exactly what I needed. Thanks for the reply!
Not a word of a lie @vince... I just put a little nuln oil on some metal work and blew on it for a few seconds, changed to paint something different and then you started blowing on your model. Actually laughed out loud.
Hopefully you still reply to old videos, I still don't understand color theory, but I've been following your videos to zenithal then use Badger's Ghost tints to base coat and I want to try do this with the blue. You mention what colors for red and green, but what colors would you use for blue?
Just standard Black-Grey-White. Your simple rule of thumb is that if you have the cold side of the spectrum (blue, purple, green), then Black-Grey-White is your undershade. If you have warm side, you want dark brown, mid brown, ivory. Hope that helps! :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you again, because of all your videos I've painted my best figure yet. This is my eighth ever figure that I've painted. imgur.com/gallery/IKwY0ls
I'm new to painting and I think value sketching / preshading is my favorite method. In the model you showed briefly, do you glaze over with the midtone flesh color? What color did you use for the midtone flesh? Maybe it is not appropriate as a hobby cheating video, but I would like to see you paint a higher standard model using this, like the one you showed briefly.
Sure, so you can see the exact process on the skintone here (as I have video on that) - ua-cam.com/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/v-deo.html&index=139 Its the technique I use for most of my models, so if you look at the Ironjawz armor video and others, you will see it in practice.
I should only be using really dark colors for the glazes, no? I tried this, used Army Painter Pure Red, and it came and awkward dull pink-ish color, only one glaze though. I also didn't have the platinum white, might this have an effect?
It will look pink after 1 glaze, not uncommon. Glazes work better with darker colors. But with Red over white, you want 3-4 glazes. You will then get a nice true, bright red.
You do love your pink Chaos Warriors! And I highly recommend for people to check out Matt Dipietro's blog if they're interested about sketching (and check out some amazing minis while at it)
When you mentioned a "brown-black" what specific black do you suggest? I'm about to start this technique on 20 Glade Guard. Winsor and Newtion claims Piano Black is a brown black but it's hard to tell. Where as Payne's Grey is very blue looking to my eye.
There is a wide range that would work and it depends a little on your final color, but off the top of my head, Vallejo German Black Brown, hull red + Black, FW Sepia ink, Scale 75 Black Leather, all would likely work to some degree.
Do they? Sure, anything can turn somewhat chalky, though gloss paints are usually less susceptible to it and yes, matte varnish can certainly fix the shine. :)
Hi Vince! I'm wondering whether or not zenithal highlighting works well with primarily while or black color schemes (considering doing my new Necrons fairly monochromatic) and how to adapt the technique to maybe make it work. On a vaguely related note, what do you have to look out for when mixing zenithal and edge highlighting?
It's much tougher with White or black, but still helpful. In those cases, you either use it to set up the base and then slow push out your highlights (bringing it toward white with near whites) or you deepend the shadows with careful application of darker paints. Nothing special, I just edge it, no additional concerns, I do the edging last I suppose,but other than that, just straight applications of the techniques.
So I am not familiar with the brand specifically, but looking, it's waterproof and india ink, so it seems to be the right stuff to stand in without issue.
Sorry Vince, another question. value sketching and glazing with red: do multiple coats get rid of the pink hues created? or do I move to a brown glaze? Plz halp.
Not really, because you can't really glaze properly with metallics (in general, it's difficult, I shouldn't say impossible, but very difficult). Now that being said, it's still how I work post the application of a solid base metallic using inks and silver to create the light points. If you look at the videos I have on doing TMM in a NMM style, you will see what I am describing in process.
Thank you for another great video, this seems very efficient. Is there any particular reason for using the white and black(ish) ink instead of normal paints?
This technique looks like it might work to do Nighthaunt models in the dark green to very bright color that GW uses. What colors would you use to achieve that?
Oh it certainly would. I will do a few videos on ghosts when they come out to help people out, but here would be my techniques. 1) After the value sketch, I would so a very thin glaze of something like the waywatcher green to get some deep shadows. Very thin. 2) I would use the airbrush to a do a nihlik oxide from above. 3) I would do a few bright "hot" spots in 50/50 nihlik/white Step 2 and 3 are still thinned and should show some of the values underneath.
I have been trying this technique and I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Is the reason you use an ink because of the pigment density? I am using a pure white paint and put on two thin layers before putting on my base coat also two thin coats. All I am seeing is the same tone of blue across the whole thing. Should I have put more layers of white?
You need to thin your color. It sounds like you are still trying to put down a base coat in a normal fashion. The key here is that you need to be working in a glaze with your covering color to let the undershade shine through. If you look back at my how to glaze video, you will see what I mean for working in the thinner paints - hope that helps. :)
Great video! I've got two questions, though. Do you ever have issues with your white ink smearing when you paint over it, even after it's been dry for a while? Second, was that purple ink also Daler Rowney, and if not, would you mind telling me what brand it is? That purple is just the color I want to use on my Dark Eldar.
I don't, but it could be the inks, some inks have some reactivation issues, so that could be at play. The purple ink was Vallejo Purple ink (I should have stated as such). It's a great color and the whole Vallejo Game Ink set is actually wonderful.
I suppose I'll just have to be a little careful when applying the first coat of paint over the white ink. Thanks for the info on the purple, I can't wait to give this technique a try on my own figures.
Yes, those will still work, it just takes a little more time to make sure you thin. You want to make some different variances of glazes and paints will work just fine.
I gave it a go, but my glazes ended up too chalky, leaving little deposits everywhere and looking rubbish. Googling it, I'm led to believe I've overdone it with the medium, but if I thicken it up a bit then it stops being a glaze. Can you help?
Excellent, then you are ahead of the game. It could just be the paint. It sounds like what happens when you have a low pigment paint thinned too much. Here is my best advice if you want to stick with these. 1) Pick a much darker color of what you are needing (i.e. if you need a blue, pick a darker blue) 2) Mix in some glaze medium and a small drop of flow aid, then use a wet brush. 3) Wick off the excess 4) Apply some thin, even glazes, pulling into the area you want to deposit the color. Hope that helps.
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Shawn Gately recently mentioned he does a lot of "underwashes". Any idea what this is supposed to be?
Washing the model in various tones early to set your shades and low-tones and then doing thinner glazes or high value sketches for the highlights I would suspect, but that is inference. :)
Flow Improver does just that, it makes the paint flow more smoothly by disrupting surface tension. The Glaze/Thinner medium increases the medium to pigment ratio, thinning and weakening the paint. in general, I don't want the paint to be weak here. You may want to check out my Guide to Paint additives, I go into more detail on the usage and nature of paint additives such as mediums, flow improvers, etc.
@@VinceVenturella very true. I dont get the difference between painting this coat with the flow improver compared to the one in Hobby Cheating 02 where you use a glaze. Both are basically thinly painting over zenithal highlight. I thought flow improver was more for making like washes since it breaks the bonds. Btw great videos!
Sure, so if you are just starting out, I recommend something cheap and simple like a master series G22. If you are experienced with an airbrush, then I have had very good experiences with the iwata HP-CS. It's my work horse brush for years now.
@@edrisardalan2165 No, vallejo Thinner Medium is just acrylic medium (the basic bonding agent). Flow Improver is an additive that breaks surface tension.
Vince Venturella I’m thinking that also instead of using white for the highlight you could get effects with using different colours... for example I light orange/brown for highlights on leather?
Vince Venturella could you do a tutorial on cast light. I have a mini that’s holding a lamp and I would love to show the effect of the light of the lamp casting back onto the character?
In the video, you mentioned that you could do another 30 minute video on colour theory relating to OSL...... I for one would love to hear what you have to say.
Excellent tutorial! Still trying to get a hang of this technique, so I was wondering what do you recommend using: inks (with flow improver?) or glazes (as in pots of paint called "glazes")? I understand this varies significantly from brand to brand, but take Warcolour inks and glazes as an example. Or what about Citadel glazes, are they rich enough in pigment? Thanks!
You men as the follow up to the value sketch? I use different things all the time, but my preferred is thinned inks. Inks have the best coverage. If you watch my how to speed paint an army in a week video, I use Daler Rowney FW inks thinned with some water and flow-improver. THat being said, Inktense inks are also great, and GW washes (not glazes, they are too thin) can work as well. (As can Warcolours glazes)
Your videos are so comprehensive. I am so astounded that your videos have the answers so perfectly described and SHOWN, which is invaluable for someone like me who needs to see it. You have really helped bump up my game already. Wholly underrated channel
Excellent, I am very glad to hear that and always happy to help. :)
I've sufffered a bit from painters block during the last few months. A few weeks ago I started watching your hobby cheating vids. They got me back into painting, and because of the stuff I learned, my level of painting has drastically increased. Thanks a lot man!
That's awesome and I am very glad to hear that. That is exactly why I do this so it's wonderful feedback to receive. :)
Hi Vince!
I just wanted to let you know that you're doing an amazing job with those videos.
I was in the Hobby around 97/02, and I'm back at it. At that time the only advices and teachings I could get was from our small local club or White Dwarf.
I just discovered your videos and channel; this so inspiring, the way you explain your thinking process is so much insightful compared to "First do this, then do that Tutorials". Your pedagogical skills are definitely inciting me to step up my game.
Thank you for your passion!
Thank you, that is awesome to hear and I am always happy to help. :)
Hey Vince, this tutorial popped up after your recent Q&A. Perfect in regards to my question...after experimenting (while this video was playing) with my FW inks, medium, and warcolor paints to create a "contrast" paint...lol well...it was really cool the way this spoke to all the problems I was having in real time regarding "pooling" and "wash" consistencies that just did not work as cleanly over my zenithal prime. Found myself brushing things out a lot and basically worked these experiments into a "glaze" where the control and effect was finally what I was going for. Exactly what this Guide to Value Sketching speaks too. Thanks again!
Always happy to help. :)
I love the look I get from value sketching for TMM. That said, your contrast paint video encouraged me to try this for colors, and I'm having fun with it so far.
Awesome, glad it was helpful. :)
Ideal which takes shading and highlighting to another level I never thought of.
Thanks, happy to help as always. It's really a fast and fun method of painting I use all the time. :)
I have been throwing paint on miniatures since I was a kid. Now I am very very much not a kid but have more time to do hobbies than I used to. I have been so confused because I was at the brink of changing styles from the base wash drybrush and edge with some blending thrown in but didnt know how to make the leap. Because I didn't know that this technique was available.
Now however! Im thrilled. I will not use any other technique again to start. Yes I will still dry brush and edge and blend but this just makes them all lock together sooo much more effectively than what I thought the next step was which was layering. No thanks... So thanks a bunch!
Excellent, glad you enjoyed it and always happy to help. :)
Your videos are terrific and they are really helping me learn to paint. Thank you. Also blowing on the mini to dry paint is a revolution. I can't believe you casually dropped a bomb like that 20 minutes in.
Well thank you, happy to help as always. ;)
Vince! I didn't come looking for one of your vids when I searched "value sketching" but I should've known you would have a guide for it! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Simply WOW, very clear explanation and demonstration. This will greatly help me in the coming minis I have on my desk.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Goodness, so good! Thank you for taking the time to walk me (us?) through this technique.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was *really* helpful and informative. I've been watching painting videos these past two months (or more), starting to feel like I've seen everything, but today, I learned something new. I appreciate the level of detail on how you explain and demonstrate what you're doing (even how you wick off excess paint from the brush!). Thank you and keep em' coming!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Great technique its going to make it easier to highlight while im learning how to glaze properly. Again thanks heaps Vince you make it all seem so easy
Happy to help!
Great discussion on a straightforward concept! Very excited to incorporate more value sketching in my future projects.
Happy to help as always. :)
Wow! A really interesting technique. I've never heard or seen this before. Thanks very much for sharing Vince!
Excellent, it's something I use all the time, happy to assist. :)
I think this will solve my problem with a blue cloak I was having trouble with. It kept going too stark one way or the other. I was about to re prime and start over but I think I can bring it back with some glazing after watching this.
I just can't stop watching these tutorial videos!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I've started to dabble into this technique. Lots to learn still. Really nice with a walkthrough!
Awesome, I hope it helped. :)
this appears to be a more 'controlled' style of zenithal... meaning not such a blanket coverage
excellent as always, Thanks Mr Venturella...
my painting has improved by leaps since watching your vids
Exactly, this is more versatile, because you can create any lighting scenario you want as opposed to just a zenithal light.
Man I wished I would have discovered you years ago! This technique is really going to help me. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the fantastic video. This finally made it click with me just what the strength of those initial zenithal highlights is and how to add to it with this value sketching.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Ton Loc says thank you for remembering him. ;) Love the videos Vince. I like your way of explaining through your work. I will be sharing this and your channel with others who are getting into the hobby.
First, we can never forget our pioneers of pop rap. Second, thank you, I am glad this was helpful and sharing with others is always deeply appreciated. :)
@@VinceVenturella I think that if we can recall him, kinda means we're old. BUT, we did have some sweet tunes to rock out to. I have been into GW stuff since the mid-80s and have recently decided to aim at either a Demon or Crystal Brush in the next few years. Thank you for the informative videos and the nuggets of knowledge. For someone who hasn't taken classes, you understand the tools of color and composition well sir. :)
Great timing! I am going to use this on my next army.
Excellent, happy to help as always.
Difficult to put into words how your videos are helping me. But a big sincere thank you.
That's awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Great video. I’ll be giving this technique a try soon. I prefer high contrast for my board game minis, so this should help me speed up the painting process.
Excellent, this is a wonderful technique for board game minis, because they usually don't ned to be display pieces and it lets you get them done quickly.
Love your videos, Vince. Thanks for making so many great resources for the hobby.
Is there a way to take advantage of value sketching when using metallic paints? I've never tried thinning one down to a glaze consistency before but I feel like it might not work too well from diluting the concentration of the metallic flakes.
Any tips on how to apply the value sketching technique to silvers/golds?
Yep, you can, though in general, you want a good metal paint - I have multiple videos on metal paints and quality. That being said, let's take something like steel. You could lay down the steel, then sketch in the shadows with matte black paint and the highlights with silver paint. You could then smooth out from there with either glazes or controlled mixed layers.
Fantastic work that answered my question of painting white and black first and then adding color. Will I be able to do this with Acrylics or do I need thinned down inks? I'm using vallejo by the way since they're the best.
Nope, thinned down paints work just fine. :)
Probably the best thing I’ve ever seen, thanks mate ! This will be great for busting out an army 🍺
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Would glaze medium be a good substitute for flow aid?
It's got a little flow aid in it, but really not enough, you pretty much want to stick to normal flow aid for full effect.
Another brilliant video, though you're inadvertently adding to my modeling backlog, as I'm increasingly feeling the need to dig out some of my old un-built kits and have a go! Though I'll watch the zenithal highlighting video first :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a great video! Very useful. I do have a question though. I am paining a large figure, a T-Rex from Gotham City Chronicles. I wanted to paint the underbelly a pretty light color, definitely significantly lighter than the top skin. Do I still leave it primed black even though I want a light color there?
Well, I just happen to have a video on that exact thing - ua-cam.com/video/Doc2GdL2Lv4/v-deo.html
Great as always.! I have got a question: if I want to preserve the red and don’t want to get a more pink color like in this example, I could use a color like mojave white instead of a „pure“ white for the sketching right? Are the color „aged white“ from you warm zenithal video and „mojave white“ kind of the same for this? Could I use either of those colors for sketching if I want to paint red later? Sry for the long question.
Yes, you are exactly correct. The warmer you make the underlying white, the more true and bright red you will get.
Yo Vince. Thanks once again.
Awesome vid!
Quick Q if you have a sec.
I'm about to start a 75mm Sioux hunter in traditional animal hide clothes
So will be a blend of cream tones, browns, ohcre etc etc.
I like this value sketch technique and cool to hear how it doesn't have to be just black for shadows.
I guess I need to learn more which colours interact best on top of others but my question is........ For the Sioux clothing would it be an idea to use a dark blacky red or dark green for the shadows of it?
Ty!
My honest answer is you could use either. It depends on where you intend to go from there technique wise. That being said, the deeper reds with some blue/black mixed in is probably the easiest and most direct route for your shadows.
@@VinceVenturella Excellent man. Sounds like a plan! Thanks for taking the time to reply buddy.
Hey vince!
Do you think you could make a video about cleaning up models? From sprue to prime ready. I know it's simple and basic but I feel like it's one of those things that I could be doing wrong in some ways and not know it.
Great suggestion, i will add it to the list.
Fantastic video. I really like this technique.
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Surely excellent hints and tips to achieve good work is not ‘cheating’
It's just the name of the series a joke that there is no cheating in the hobby. :)
@@VinceVenturella OK. I have seen a number of references to ‘cheating’ when it turn out to be a simple tip. Thanks for the reply
Vince, I am still rather new to painting so I was wondering. Different techniques have different uses and preferable cases I guess. When to use layering, value sketching, glazing, standard wetblending etc.? Is there a chance you would make pros and cons for each of these and when would they be aplicable?
I have Mightly Skullcrushers to paint, basecoated/primed red. I am wondering which methods to ude in painting them. For example, typically, it would be red + leadbelcher then these areas covered twice with nuln oil. I do't want to spendtoo much time but I defo want more than tabletop quality.
it's tricky, for the most part, you can use any of the techniques at any time, now some of them have applicability in certain scenarios for display pieces, but the reality is for gaming stuff when you are aiming above tabletop quality, you can pretty much use any of them to get where you want.
That being said, I did make a video recently (#200) that talks more deeply about general techniques and their applicability.
@@VinceVenturella Hey Vince, thank you for replying. I mostly buy minis to paint them. Gaming is secondary so my army-in-the-making is being brought to life slowly because of that.
I would lioe to save some time on certain pieces, that's for sure.
Btw, any way to avoid coffee staining with a wash? Like adding a medium or something?
Vince, opacity appears to be the Achilles heel of this technique, which poses a problem for me: I want to paint up a board game mini with a large robe, but I want his final mid-tone and highlight colors to be Warcolours' Emerald 2 and Emerald 1, respectively. Glazing over zenithal seems to only be effective when working with darker, translucent colors. How do you work around the limitations this places on color choices and actually finish models in lighter colors using value sketches? I'd hate to think that when doing this I am limited to only my 4s and 5s and inks. (Nothing against inks. It's just that I only have one small set; so again I find myself stuck to a limited palette.) For that matter, how would you do this with a color like blue-gray, where even the 4 and 5 are fairly opaque?
So a few thoughts.
1) The darker colors put over bright white, will look a lot like the brighter colors.
2) What I tend to do is take those brighter colors and apply them as a layer in the highlight area, but more than just the area I am trying to highlight. Then I come back in and glaze with the darker color over the "extra" highlight to create the midtone at the same time.
3) You can glaze with those colors. It's more difficult, but if you mix them with a little medium you should be able to make them smooth and avoid chalkiness.
Was the model Zenithal Primed before you began applying the White Value Highlights? thank you for the content.
Yes, slightly, but of course, it could be done straight over black.
Great video, you have a wonderful way of explaining things.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
This has literally just changed the whole game for me. I have 20 drukhari warriors to paint in blacks/purples and pinks, I'll need to reprime them and zenithal and then sketch in those highlights and shadows...but this will speed everything up so much!
Awesome, always glad to hear and happy to help. :)
Are there colors that would not work well using the Payne's Grey Ink to deepen the shadows? It seems like browns and oranges would also work well with PGI.
Generally, Payne's grey is a great universal shadow. Now technically cold colors should have warm shadows (more of a deep crimson) so in that case probably not. That being said, when I do completely cold paint jobs, I use it with cold colors and it works great.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince. I really like the Payne's Grey. Great recommendation.
This one of your most useful videos, well done!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Wow. This is so helpful. One of my favorite videos.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great video. Could one use the inks to paint an entire mini, say skin, armor, fur, cloth? Also could you do a video on brushes? Like I've recently gotten some Broken Toad brushes and I love them, but people are still trying to sell me on the Windsor & Newton Series 7, but I'm not sure if they're worth the price tag if I can get some of similar quality for less money. I'd like to see your critique on W&N, Broken Toad, Citadel, The Army Painter, Back 2 Base IX, Games and Gears, Rosemary, or maybe just some of your preferred brushes. Kind of like how you did for the paint lines. Thanks.
1) Yep, you absolutely can use inks for the whole mini. I teach classes on it at conventions, but I also have a video here - ua-cam.com/video/1YdY7GlwKQc/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=78
2) If you like the Broken Toad, then you're likely good. I have done a video on brushes (not comparing across the all the brands, but I give mention to it as well as care - link below). So as long as we are talking a real sable brush, then W&N, Broken Toad, Rafael, Scarff, Da Vinci, they are all pretty much doing the same job. The differences are very minor and largely to do with the spring and belly size, so it's often more of a matter of personal taste and painting style. Broken toad for example are very soft and have a low spring, W&N have a higher spring (the tension on he bristles to return to the their natural position). With nice brushes (sable brushes) as long as you have some around for the tough work they are needed for, you are good.
Here is the vid - ua-cam.com/video/dTqK28W-NEY/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=68
Great bid... I just recently found the power of white inks... Question pls: Is there any need ever to use white PAINT when you can use white INK, which does not go chalky and flows much better? Thanks
Yes, white paint still is more opaque and stick a little better. I often mix a little white paint into the white ink to get it to adhere and be a stronger color overall when I want a really strong white.
@@VinceVenturella Got it... tks
Thanks for another great tutorial, will try this out soon.
Awesome, happy to help as always.
that brush you're using looks really nice
Winsor & Newton Series 7, they are a little more expensive, but worth it for the durability (really any nice sable brush - Da Vinci, Raphael, etc.)
A well explain, solid tutorial, thanks for your work. And an other suggestion for a futur hobby cheating, you talk about it a lot but i don't remember a hobby cheating about "how to use the chromatic wheel"
So I have an early one about color theory. It's still something probably worth revisiting. - ua-cam.com/video/pVb4jiig0zo/v-deo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=22
So i just rewatch the video and i think i doesn't point out the topic i have in mind, i was thinking more about how to chose the right shading color, like in this video where you blue/black shading for the red armor or on the gem video when you use red for the blue gem
Hi great tutorial, one question what primer and white paint you use for standard zenithal?
Vallejo German Panzer Grey is my first layer (my near black), Badger Stynelrez white is my go to, thinned and built up in thin layers toward full white.
Hi Vince.
I'm new to painting, and i've never tried zenithal highlighting, so I wanted to ask if I have to zenithal coat my figure for this to work or can I do it directly on a black only figure with white paint?
You could certainly do this with simply a brush and some white/grey paint to start over straight black, no issue there at all. :)
can skething be done with normal acrylic paint or only with inks? what consistency should normal paint have for skeching?
You could certainly do the same with paints. Consistency, you are generally doing a layer.
Is it necessary to wash miniatures after I cut them off the sprue? I read that they have release agent on them so need a good clean before applying primer; I just ruined 3 Necrons trying to wash them as they are so delicate and I have to do it one handed, it's quite a fight!
Would an ultrasonic cleaner suffice?
Nope, it's good to wash resin, but plastic, nah, no need.
Thanks again for your video.
I have a couple of questions though :
Do you thin your black and white inks with water or glazing medium?
With this technique, could you glaze TMM or do you need to stick with NMM for armour and weapons?
For most cases, I think it with water alone, though you can certainly use medium as well. I am not a fan of glazing metallics over matte, my general feeling is you have to start from a solid coat there, but I know Matt Dipietro does it all the time with his sketch style and he's a better artist than me. :)
With TMM weapons, I go more traditional and end up getting a solid metallic coat and then working in value sketches with inks and bright metallics (usually silver) from there.
Question: Can you do a black wash over the zenethil, prior to applying any color? My thought here, is that when i get done doing zenethil transitions with the greys, i'll want to do a quick wash, so that i'm getting those nooks and crannies facing the top of the model, accurately shaded.
Yes, I have another video on that here - ua-cam.com/video/kWN05uTt878/v-deo.html
Thanks for another great video! I really liked that!
And i want to buy a license for using your Blowing-on-your-mini (tm) technique. ;)
Very expensive license for sure. :) - Glad it was helpful.
Awesome! Now I'm playing with the thought of starting AOS just because I now can quickpaint an army.
I'd love to see how you achieve a much more redfish red instead of pinkish red. Would you sketch the volumes with yellow?
A tutorial I really like to see is one about glass, bottles etc.
Sure, so with those, you can still use white, just make it a warm white, or yellow/brown ivory at the top and make the low colors dark browns. I have a video on it here - ua-cam.com/video/rFDHpVJiNC0/v-deo.html&index=130
Hi Vince, great work and suggestions again. While looking at this video, I thought if you have any video (if not it would be a good suggestion IMO) for fast painting huge amount of small minis and maybe this would do it. I was think more about minis in War of the Ring, but since they are so many on the board and small, I think this technique might be to much for them. Any suggestion on how to do a War of the Ring like painting as fast as possible? Thanks :)
I have several speed painting videos (here is one - ua-cam.com/video/1YdY7GlwKQc/v-deo.html) in short though, if they are really small scale, zenithal, drybrush white and then use inks in glaze form to get your colors.
Thanks will take a look at them. Keep up the great work!!
what i dont get is the way you create the glazes in no time. you have always super thin glazes, but they still show their color perfectly with 1 coat. i tried it yesterday with a light blue layer paint from GW. after thining it down i had to make 3-4 coats to even see the color barely... should i perhaps not use the layer paints? only the base paints for the glaze? i have to try it out more i guess (just startet with zenithal HL and glazing) - great video as always thank you
So three things.
1) Not all paint brands are created equal for glazing. I use Scale 75 for most of my glazes, and they are far more pigment rich than GW. Meaning I can take them far more thin and retain their ability to provide color.
2) Always remember, darker colors glaze better than light and you always want to try to be glazing over lighter colors. Glazes have a larger impact on lighter colors.
3) You want to play with your thinness, things like layers are already quite thin, so you may not need to take them as thin to get a glaze consistency.
I've had very good results value sketching using contrast (minus the very strong contrast colours like wyldwood)
Interesting, if it's working then it can't be wrong. :)
I want to give this a try. I know it will improve my army speed painting
Excellent, once you get down how thin your glazes and other items should be, you can paint figures really fast with this method and still have wonderful contrast for the tabletop.
Love this! New technique to up my game!
It's something I use so regularly, even if you end up covering most of the color with later layers, it makes the miniature so much easier to see detail and understand your highlights. :)
@@VinceVenturella I've been thinking about this technique since posting, I call this "Taking Zenithol to the next level". It's exactly what I needed. Thanks for the reply!
Not a word of a lie @vince... I just put a little nuln oil on some metal work and blew on it for a few seconds, changed to paint something different and then you started blowing on your model. Actually laughed out loud.
Amazing
Does using the white ink over the places where armor would be work for TMM work as well?
Sure, just as a sketch, in general, the metal will cover it, but it's still a good guide.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks again for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated.
Would Citadel Contrast Paints work with this method? Seems like they would.
100% yes, they are perfect for this.
Hopefully you still reply to old videos,
I still don't understand color theory, but I've been following your videos to zenithal then use Badger's Ghost tints to base coat and I want to try do this with the blue. You mention what colors for red and green, but what colors would you use for blue?
Just standard Black-Grey-White. Your simple rule of thumb is that if you have the cold side of the spectrum (blue, purple, green), then Black-Grey-White is your undershade. If you have warm side, you want dark brown, mid brown, ivory. Hope that helps! :)
@@VinceVenturella It does, Thank you!
@@VinceVenturella Thank you again, because of all your videos I've painted my best figure yet. This is my eighth ever figure that I've painted. imgur.com/gallery/IKwY0ls
I'm new to painting and I think value sketching / preshading is my favorite method. In the model you showed briefly, do you glaze over with the midtone flesh color? What color did you use for the midtone flesh?
Maybe it is not appropriate as a hobby cheating video, but I would like to see you paint a higher standard model using this, like the one you showed briefly.
Sure, so you can see the exact process on the skintone here (as I have video on that) - ua-cam.com/video/iUFnyLL7cSY/v-deo.html&index=139
Its the technique I use for most of my models, so if you look at the Ironjawz armor video and others, you will see it in practice.
Thank you!
I should only be using really dark colors for the glazes, no? I tried this, used Army Painter Pure Red, and it came and awkward dull pink-ish color, only one glaze though. I also didn't have the platinum white, might this have an effect?
It will look pink after 1 glaze, not uncommon. Glazes work better with darker colors. But with Red over white, you want 3-4 glazes. You will then get a nice true, bright red.
You do love your pink Chaos Warriors!
And I highly recommend for people to check out Matt Dipietro's blog if they're interested about sketching (and check out some amazing minis while at it)
Totally agreed, he was a big inspiration to me for this style for sure. :) - Pink chaos warriors are the best chaos warriors.
When you mentioned a "brown-black" what specific black do you suggest? I'm about to start this technique on 20 Glade Guard. Winsor and Newtion claims Piano Black is a brown black but it's hard to tell. Where as Payne's Grey is very blue looking to my eye.
There is a wide range that would work and it depends a little on your final color, but off the top of my head, Vallejo German Black Brown, hull red + Black, FW Sepia ink, Scale 75 Black Leather, all would likely work to some degree.
Hey Vince. Do gloss paints turn chalky? If not, then a matte varnish would fix the shine.
Do they? Sure, anything can turn somewhat chalky, though gloss paints are usually less susceptible to it and yes, matte varnish can certainly fix the shine. :)
Hi Vince!
I'm wondering whether or not zenithal highlighting works well with primarily while or black color schemes (considering doing my new Necrons fairly monochromatic) and how to adapt the technique to maybe make it work. On a vaguely related note, what do you have to look out for when mixing zenithal and edge highlighting?
It's much tougher with White or black, but still helpful. In those cases, you either use it to set up the base and then slow push out your highlights (bringing it toward white with near whites) or you deepend the shadows with careful application of darker paints.
Nothing special, I just edge it, no additional concerns, I do the edging last I suppose,but other than that, just straight applications of the techniques.
Thanks for the great video. It's much appreciated. Great explanation.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Hi Vince, I got a bunch of Koh-i-Noor white ink for their technical pens. Would this ink work the same way you use the Daler Rowney ink? Thx.
So I am not familiar with the brand specifically, but looking, it's waterproof and india ink, so it seems to be the right stuff to stand in without issue.
I ordered some FW stuff as well, but will test on one of my skitarii tonight. Thanks!!
Sorry Vince, another question. value sketching and glazing with red: do multiple coats get rid of the pink hues created? or do I move to a brown glaze? Plz halp.
Wow..... Sonic the Hedgehog reference. You sir, are definitely a child of the 80's! Yeah buddy, Sega Genesis summers!!!
I mean, I still count Phantasy Star II as the greatest RPG of all time, so... ;)
Hey Vince, amazing video, as always!
Just a question, will this also be possible with metallics?
Not really, because you can't really glaze properly with metallics (in general, it's difficult, I shouldn't say impossible, but very difficult). Now that being said, it's still how I work post the application of a solid base metallic using inks and silver to create the light points. If you look at the videos I have on doing TMM in a NMM style, you will see what I am describing in process.
Thank you for another great video, this seems very efficient. Is there any particular reason for using the white and black(ish) ink instead of normal paints?
The FW ink is much more pigment intense and pure white than most paints and covers much more strongly and more brightly. Same for the opposite ink.
Great, thanks for the info. Learned to paint back in the late 90ies, so coming back to the hobby there's a lot to learn and unlearn :)
Vince do you have a link to where I can purchase the mini with the battle axe?
Just a normal chaos warrior from the Chaos Warrior Box set from Games Workshop. :)
This technique looks like it might work to do Nighthaunt models in the dark green to very bright color that GW uses.
What colors would you use to achieve that?
Oh it certainly would. I will do a few videos on ghosts when they come out to help people out, but here would be my techniques.
1) After the value sketch, I would so a very thin glaze of something like the waywatcher green to get some deep shadows. Very thin.
2) I would use the airbrush to a do a nihlik oxide from above.
3) I would do a few bright "hot" spots in 50/50 nihlik/white
Step 2 and 3 are still thinned and should show some of the values underneath.
Also, for undershading silver and gold armor, I could use brown/purple ink (gold) and blue ink (silver)?
Yep, in general, your metals will cover it, but it's still not bad to have slight hints of those tones. For NMM it's a great idea.
Hi Vince, did you zenithal prime the Chaos model before value sketching in the video?
Yep, I still zenithal primed it.
@@VinceVenturella ... Thanks Vince!!!
Great tutorial!!
Thank you! :)
I have been trying this technique and I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Is the reason you use an ink because of the pigment density? I am using a pure white paint and put on two thin layers before putting on my base coat also two thin coats. All I am seeing is the same tone of blue across the whole thing. Should I have put more layers of white?
You need to thin your color. It sounds like you are still trying to put down a base coat in a normal fashion. The key here is that you need to be working in a glaze with your covering color to let the undershade shine through. If you look back at my how to glaze video, you will see what I mean for working in the thinner paints - hope that helps. :)
Great video! I've got two questions, though. Do you ever have issues with your white ink smearing when you paint over it, even after it's been dry for a while? Second, was that purple ink also Daler Rowney, and if not, would you mind telling me what brand it is? That purple is just the color I want to use on my Dark Eldar.
I don't, but it could be the inks, some inks have some reactivation issues, so that could be at play. The purple ink was Vallejo Purple ink (I should have stated as such). It's a great color and the whole Vallejo Game Ink set is actually wonderful.
I suppose I'll just have to be a little careful when applying the first coat of paint over the white ink. Thanks for the info on the purple, I can't wait to give this technique a try on my own figures.
Vince, I don't have any inks. I have washes and paint only. What would the consistency of an ink be in relation to those two, do you think?
Yes, those will still work, it just takes a little more time to make sure you thin. You want to make some different variances of glazes and paints will work just fine.
I gave it a go, but my glazes ended up too chalky, leaving little deposits everywhere and looking rubbish. Googling it, I'm led to believe I've overdone it with the medium, but if I thicken it up a bit then it stops being a glaze. Can you help?
Well, my best advice is grab some inks, in the end, they are a relatively cheap investment (The Vallejo Game set for example is
I'm wicking like crazy, you've taught me well :)
Excellent, then you are ahead of the game. It could just be the paint. It sounds like what happens when you have a low pigment paint thinned too much. Here is my best advice if you want to stick with these. 1) Pick a much darker color of what you are needing (i.e. if you need a blue, pick a darker blue) 2) Mix in some glaze medium and a small drop of flow aid, then use a wet brush. 3) Wick off the excess 4) Apply some thin, even glazes, pulling into the area you want to deposit the color.
Hope that helps.
Shawn Gately recently mentioned he does a lot of "underwashes". Any idea what this is supposed to be?
Washing the model in various tones early to set your shades and low-tones and then doing thinner glazes or high value sketches for the highlights I would suspect, but that is inference. :)
Here you thint with flow improver. In 02 you use Vallejo glaze+thinner. Any difference between the two?
Flow Improver does just that, it makes the paint flow more smoothly by disrupting surface tension. The Glaze/Thinner medium increases the medium to pigment ratio, thinning and weakening the paint. in general, I don't want the paint to be weak here.
You may want to check out my Guide to Paint additives, I go into more detail on the usage and nature of paint additives such as mediums, flow improvers, etc.
@@VinceVenturella very true. I dont get the difference between painting this coat with the flow improver compared to the one in Hobby Cheating 02 where you use a glaze. Both are basically thinly painting over zenithal highlight. I thought flow improver was more for making like washes since it breaks the bonds. Btw great videos!
What level of coverage are you looking on the first white application? Just 1 thin layer?
Yep, basically a thin but clean layer.
Vince Venturella should you still see the layer beneath? Or full coverage?
Another super tutorial!
Happy to help as always. :)
This is really great, thank you for this video!
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
You made this very easy to understand, thank you ! Now I get it ;)
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
could I get a recommendation on a airbrush?
Sure, so if you are just starting out, I recommend something cheap and simple like a master series G22. If you are experienced with an airbrush, then I have had very good experiences with the iwata HP-CS. It's my work horse brush for years now.
Witch flow inprover do you use for the glaze?
Any can work, I use Warcolours, as I really like it, but you can also use something like Liquitex you by from the art store.
@@VinceVenturella okej is vallejo thinner medium the same stuff?
@@edrisardalan2165 No, vallejo Thinner Medium is just acrylic medium (the basic bonding agent). Flow Improver is an additive that breaks surface tension.
@@VinceVenturella okej thanks so much for your help :)
mold lines. Nice video
Oh yes, I didn't bother to really clean this guy up before the video. ;) - Thanks and I hope it helped.
AMAZING vídeo 👏👏
Thanks!
What color did you use to glaze flesh?
I didn't have any flesh in this video, but lots of colors options, red tones and such are usualy the go to.
@VinceVenturella Thank you.
If I could have double liked this video I would... nice work dude
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Vince Venturella I’m thinking that also instead of using white for the highlight you could get effects with using different colours... for example I light orange/brown for highlights on leather?
Vince Venturella could you do a tutorial on cast light. I have a mini that’s holding a lamp and I would love to show the effect of the light of the lamp casting back onto the character?
@@wingwalker007 I have a video on OSL, I talk a lot about light cast from a source in "frame" in that video - ua-cam.com/video/8jgiQsmx1eo/v-deo.html
In the video, you mentioned that you could do another 30 minute video on colour theory relating to OSL...... I for one would love to hear what you have to say.
Aren't choas emeralds kinda Sonic's thing? As early as the first game, even!
It's a fair point.
Great share thanks
Thank you sir, much appreciated. :)
Excellent tutorial! Still trying to get a hang of this technique, so I was wondering what do you recommend using: inks (with flow improver?) or glazes (as in pots of paint called "glazes")?
I understand this varies significantly from brand to brand, but take Warcolour inks and glazes as an example. Or what about Citadel glazes, are they rich enough in pigment? Thanks!
You men as the follow up to the value sketch? I use different things all the time, but my preferred is thinned inks. Inks have the best coverage. If you watch my how to speed paint an army in a week video, I use Daler Rowney FW inks thinned with some water and flow-improver. THat being said, Inktense inks are also great, and GW washes (not glazes, they are too thin) can work as well. (As can Warcolours glazes)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply. Lol yes, I did intend to refer to the stages after the value sketch. Will check out that video asap!
Do you value sketch the entire model at once, or work on one aspect at a time?
Generally, it's a good idea to lay out your value sketch at once. It helps you to set the total lighting on the model.