Why don’t you weld up the tiny passages where the cylinders are? I heard that’s like one of the biggest causes of blown head gaskets on the eco and essentially bullet proofs it, along with other things like the head gasket you got
Happy Friday. I finally got the heads off the block and man it’s nasty in there. I’m not sure what I’m seeing but there’s peeling on the surface of the block but no cracks. It’s orange and black so I’m assuming it’s residue from the gasket? Definitely much dirter than yours. But I did have one question. I checked the block just now with a warpage ruler from amazon and check the clearance with a .002 tester and it slides through in one of the diagonal angles. .003 has no issues and won’t go through but it’s that spot with .002 I’m worried about. Thank you. What is the maximum warpage allowed on these 2.3 block and what is generally accepted by mechanics such as yourself. I have not cleaned the block yet so I might get more clear results after doing so or it won’t make much a difference? Also how do I clean the piston and block without damaging it.
You would only use brake cleaner. Brake clean drys on its own and won’t harm anything. Yes clean it first then redo the measurements I don’t miss with that at all I take the cylinder head in for a pass or two I wouldn’t risk it at all. Did your head gasket blow up. Or you’re doing it before it happened?
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMSI have bad news man. I was under the impression that the head warped or the gasket blew but it seem that my head gasket didn’t blow. My heads were warped and after cleaning the gasket adhesive from the deck I found a chip/groove/gouge right on the coolant channel slit between cylinder 1 & 2 and its visible to the touch and eye so I’m pretty sure it’s the cause of the leak. I would machine it but knowing my limited I am when it comes to engine work I think I’ll just buy the updated block from ford so I’ll delay the repair. The main problem is that i’ve been following the video and to be honest with you I can’t afford a mechanic + tow + parts so I’ll have to figure out how to take the block out and back in and time the engine + matching it with the torque converter…etc which aren’t included in the video This car is kicking my ass but oh well more learning for me. Your vids have helped me tremendously hopefully I’ll be back here next couple of month
@user-em9rh1ii5e I am very sorry to hear that man. You can get a short block from ford for like 5,000 it’s not hard to do. Just support the trans and pull everything that’s on the block including the torque converter bolts out and get an engine host and pull the motor. It’s very easy to get the new one in as will just get the shaft back it you will feel it and hear it.
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS Hey sir. So I’m planning on getting the block out. I had a locksmith that told me he used to work on cars and said that I should just junk the car. He told me that changing the block on the ford mustang isn’t something I can do since removing the long block and replacing would require calibrating the ecu, air fuel mix ratio etc and it takes someone very experience (5+ years tech) to do this job. It’s not a simple plug and play. Can I get some help on this?
Yes, the APR head studs are a better choice than factory head studs factory head studs causes head lift. APR head studs prevents your head from lifting as you turn up the boost.
We appreciate all of your support, stay tuned for part 7! I would strongly recommend going with the ARP head studs for the same reason TBC said, and simply just because they look cool xD!
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS btw when you were installing the APR headstud did you follow the torque sequence that came with it because i just got mine and i notice step 4 that you have to loosen them after tightening them is that correct? and what is the purpose of loosening them on step 4?
@vicarnieva5401 yes you do have to loosen them you’re stretching the bolt is what you’re doing. Please make sure you do that step. It is very important. When you loosen them go in reverse when you were tightening them, and then go back to tightening them.
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS those ARP studs torque stages are no joke its a work out lol and also from my exprerience use a magnet to start the thread on those nut because one of mine fell at the bottom of the head cylinder and i have to take the head off again to fish out the nut for the people that's who is about to start this project
Do you recommend loosening the head bolt in reverse order of 11:00 / tightening sequence or it doesn’t matter? And by the way would it be ok to loosening the head bolt with an impact or that’s not ok? I’m putting a lots of weight onto loosening the bolt counter-clockwise with a breaker bar and it is not coming off. I tried to use a impact drill for 2-3 second on the first bolt and surprisingly it didn’t loosen a bit. I’m planning on buying a longer breaker bar and putting some pb blast on the bolt tomorrow. Slowly making it through the series. Thank you.
No don’t use an impact gun on head bolts you can damage the head and crack the block. Long breaker bar would work keep in mind they are torqued down plus a 60 degree turn. They will be hard to get them lose but they will come lose. Yes loosen them in reverse.
There is no reason. if you were not willing to wait for the head to get resurfaced then I would say buy a new head. Keep in mind that you will have to check the gap in between the head and block on every direction to make sure the block is not warped. As far as the camshaft go, you can reuse your old camshafts. Do not drop these they are delicate. I chose to go with Ford performance camshafts.
@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS thanks so much for your response, I gave another question, when you buy the head it comes with the valves and everything, or you have to buy it separately / re use it from the old one ? Thanks!
@@gregalot200 for the head studs you want to use ARP thread sealer. For lubing the cams you can do two things. You can use engine assembly lube. Or regular motor oil.
Can't wait tell you post part. 6.
Why don’t you weld up the tiny passages where the cylinders are? I heard that’s like one of the biggest causes of blown head gaskets on the eco and essentially bullet proofs it, along with other things like the head gasket you got
Lmao. Or just get a 2.0l short block
Happy Friday. I finally got the heads off the block and man it’s nasty in there. I’m not sure what I’m seeing but there’s peeling on the surface of the block but no cracks. It’s orange and black so I’m assuming it’s residue from the gasket? Definitely much dirter than yours. But I did have one question.
I checked the block just now with a warpage ruler from amazon and check the clearance with a .002 tester and it slides through in one of the diagonal angles. .003 has no issues and won’t go through but it’s that spot with .002 I’m worried about. Thank you.
What is the maximum warpage allowed on these 2.3 block and what is generally accepted by mechanics such as yourself.
I have not cleaned the block yet so I might get more clear results after doing so or it won’t make much a difference? Also how do I clean the piston and block without damaging it.
You would only use brake cleaner. Brake clean drys on its own and won’t harm anything. Yes clean it first then redo the measurements I don’t miss with that at all I take the cylinder head in for a pass or two I wouldn’t risk it at all. Did your head gasket blow up. Or you’re doing it before it happened?
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMSI have bad news man. I was under the impression that the head warped or the gasket blew but it seem that my head gasket didn’t blow. My heads were warped and after cleaning the gasket adhesive from the deck I found a chip/groove/gouge right on the coolant channel slit between cylinder 1 & 2 and its visible to the touch and eye so I’m pretty sure it’s the cause of the leak. I would machine it but knowing my limited I am when it comes to engine work I think I’ll just buy the updated block from ford so I’ll delay the repair. The main problem is that i’ve been following the video and to be honest with you I can’t afford a mechanic + tow + parts so I’ll have to figure out how to take the block out and back in and time the engine + matching it with the torque converter…etc which aren’t included in the video
This car is kicking my ass but oh well more learning for me. Your vids have helped me tremendously hopefully I’ll be back here next couple of month
@user-em9rh1ii5e I am very sorry to hear that man. You can get a short block from ford for like 5,000 it’s not hard to do. Just support the trans and pull everything that’s on the block including the torque converter bolts out and get an engine host and pull the motor. It’s very easy to get the new one in as will just get the shaft back it you will feel it and hear it.
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS Hey sir. So I’m planning on getting the block out. I had a locksmith that told me he used to work on cars and said that I should just junk the car. He told me that changing the block on the ford mustang isn’t something I can do since removing the long block and replacing would require calibrating the ecu, air fuel mix ratio etc and it takes someone very experience (5+ years tech) to do this job. It’s not a simple plug and play. Can I get some help on this?
Btw the APR studs your using is that better than the OEM? and which would you recommend using? Again thank you for posting this video waiting on #6 😅
Yes, the APR head studs are a better choice than factory head studs factory head studs causes head lift. APR head studs prevents your head from lifting as you turn up the boost.
We appreciate all of your support, stay tuned for part 7! I would strongly recommend going with the ARP head studs for the same reason TBC said, and simply just because they look cool xD!
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS btw when you were installing the APR headstud did you follow the torque sequence that came with it because i just got mine and i notice step 4 that you have to loosen them after tightening them is that correct? and what is the purpose of loosening them on step 4?
@vicarnieva5401 yes you do have to loosen them you’re stretching the bolt is what you’re doing. Please make sure you do that step. It is very important. When you loosen them go in reverse when you were tightening them, and then go back to tightening them.
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS those ARP studs torque stages are no joke its a work out lol and also from my exprerience use a magnet to start the thread on those nut because one of mine fell at the bottom of the head cylinder and i have to take the head off again to fish out the nut for the people that's who is about to start this project
Do you recommend loosening the head bolt in reverse order of 11:00 / tightening sequence or it doesn’t matter?
And by the way would it be ok to loosening the head bolt with an impact or that’s not ok? I’m putting a lots of weight onto loosening the bolt counter-clockwise with a breaker bar and it is not coming off. I tried to use a impact drill for 2-3 second on the first bolt and surprisingly it didn’t loosen a bit.
I’m planning on buying a longer breaker bar and putting some pb blast on the bolt tomorrow. Slowly making it through the series. Thank you.
No don’t use an impact gun on head bolts you can damage the head and crack the block. Long breaker bar would work keep in mind they are torqued down plus a 60 degree turn. They will be hard to get them lose but they will come lose. Yes loosen them in reverse.
Its there any reason for replace the head and camshafts or i can use the old ones ?
There is no reason. if you were not willing to wait for the head to get resurfaced then I would say buy a new head. Keep in mind that you will have to check the gap in between the head and block on every direction to make sure the block is not warped. As far as the camshaft go, you can reuse your old camshafts. Do not drop these they are delicate. I chose to go with Ford performance camshafts.
@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS thanks so much for your response, I gave another question, when you buy the head it comes with the valves and everything, or you have to buy it separately / re use it from the old one ?
Thanks!
@@aldotruqui no sir. It does come with the valves not the cams. So you will have to buy the new cams
What type of thread seal did you use for the nuts?
APR thread stealer it comes with the APR head studs.
@@TOUGHBUILDSCUSTOMS Your talking about the lubricant?
@@gregalot200 for the head studs you want to use ARP thread sealer. For lubing the cams you can do two things. You can use engine assembly lube. Or regular motor oil.
The weak part of the engine gasket, see mls baf gasket 🥩🥩
Lmao