Will it start?!?! Massey Ferguson 175 tractor !!
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2019
- #masseyFergusonTractor #MF175 #pleasestart
Today we’re bleeding the fuel lines on the Massey Ferguson 175 tractor. Hopefully this is the final step, and she’ll fire up. We’ve replaced all the wiring and installed a new petcock on the fuel tank. The tractor is a key piece of equipment for the upcoming cabin build. It has to run!
Chad & Shelby Catron
We are a family that decided to make a huge lifestyle change. We bought 20 raw acres and are carving in our homestead, we built our home from the ground up with our own two hands- a Tiny house & DIY & HGTV came out and filmed the process of it being built- Tiny House Big Living- Off Grid Tiny.
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If you have a suggestion, please drop a comment below... thanks for the help!
Might have clogged injectors
Tighten the injection lines that you have fuel coming out of and see if it fires off. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it to bleed all the air out. I just done this with a skid steer a few days ago. It ran for a couple minutes then shut off. Sometimes you won't get fuel out of the breeders until the whole system has pressure.
coin and ring guy brown hopefully he sees all these and gets that thing fired up tomorrow.
Yes these guys are right you're only getting air bubbles out of your injector lines with a little bit of diesel, all I seen coming out were air bubbles. You should also hook up a set of jumper cables up to your battery while doing this because cranking a lot will destroy your battery and cranking your starter with low amperage will wreck your starter and having jumper cables hooked up will spin your engine faster. Also have your throttle open full throttle.
Also did you replace your fuel filters? If not I'd definitely do that with all of the junk in your tank plugging everything up.
Crack the lines at the injectors one at a time. Have someone crank it while you stand there with a wrench. As soon as you get fuel tighten the line and stop cranking the engine. Do that for all the injectors but one at a time.
Smallblockfuelie got it👍🏻 will do!
Bill Randal sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Dad says he's spot on.
I've been dying to see this baby run since the first time you showed it :)
I wish you luck
Oak Knob Farm I’m doing this for both of us then!!!💪🏻😂😂😂
I believe that you’re gonna get it!!! 🙏👍👍👍😎
Mary Gordon thank you
Don't know one thing about that tractor but will send you good luck on getting it to run👍🤗
Bonnie thank you! I’ll take it😁
Hay, I'd listen to what, "smallblockfuelie" has to say. Even dad says to close them one by one.
Ok..just barely crack the lines..so it doesn't suck air back in...crack the lines on the injection pump on the inlet side one at a time while some one is spinning over...then crack the injector lines slightly one at a time till you get decent amount of fuel coming out..then try and fire it..if it still won't hit (this is latch ditch) try spraying WD 40 into intake and it should start to run..(might take a couple of tries)..usually after it tries to crank it will purge the left over air and begin to run..might take a little bit to hit on all cyl..this is ok keep it going so it builds some heat (it will crank better hot)..might blow a lot of smoke as it clears cylinders...I think the fuel pump is working as it was blowing fuel bubbles..I think you cracked lines to much and let them suck air...do that and film it..I am watching and will try to help..GO CHAD!!
BILL randell thanks Bill I appreciate the help. How much WD-40 needs to get sprayed if I do it that way?
@@NorthCountryOffgrid Get it spinning over.. then shoot 2-3 ....one two three "counts" and keep it spinning...don't spin starter more then a minute or so (can burn up starter!! ..feel with your hand to monitor how hot it's getting)...The WD 40 will burn great!! and it seals the piston rings that "may" not be making good compression due to cylinders bieng "washed down" with fuel..It's a pretty darn good way to fire off a semi tired or "sat-up" diesel..please avoid "starting fluid" as it is really bad for your engine...It may take firing off engine with WD several times to "bleed off" air and get injection pump loosened up...try to keep it running with a squirt down intake while running..I use a "starter bumper" (button with two wires for cranking starter by yourself) one lead to + batt. and other to "key on cranking" terminal of starter (or the solenoid is equipped) ..oncebit has run for a while, you should be good..I "assume" you have made sure fuel filter and separator are not plugged ( disconnect lines and blow through)...If after all this it still won't crank you will need to do a "glow plug" ignition series of tests..let me know how it goes..good luck!!
You have defiantly been there eh, LOL.
@@TomokosEnterprize When I was younger we almost had a deal with GM for putting Kobota's in Jimmy's and Blaser 2's ..works great..lot of diesel..
@@billrandell4641 I still miss dealing with the older CAT engines. Fill the filters and bleed away. Life was far simpler then eh.
Hi. Also the first filter with clear bottom is water separator . gravity should bleed.also next in line filter. But use plug too one side on both and make sure center one is tight if fuel coming out air will get pulled in. As you were doing it in order one at time .you can also do injectors one at time .
Craig MacDonald I think I understand you👍🏻thank you
I don't trust that hand pump. Go back to the beginning. Remove the first filter / separator and pump it again to check for solid pressure. Once pressure is confirmed repeat the process but don't skip the steps. The upper bleeder not working on the pump may show a problem. Many will disagree with me but at that point have someone crank the motor and if diesel start leaking out close it while its cranking. Do that for each injector one by one. You still seem to have air in that line. Those injector pumps are real pains in the arse when it comes to air in the lines but I think you are on the right path.
strakill okay! That’s tomorrow’s plan if attack.
Great job troubleshooting. You almost had it. One injector at a time starting with closest to the pump. The other 3 are sucking air while cranking. The manual primer pump allows you to complete this task without a helper and accomplishes the same goal as cranking the engine over. Next video this tractor is off and running. Excited to meet you folks in July.
I've never had to crack the injectors ever. A little cleaning and a shit of ether and it does fine
When I drove 18 wheeler if you ran out of fuel you had to remove each line ,hand fill each line to prime fuel pump.
Yes but these are different!
Place a 12 volt fuel pump at the primary fuel inlet . Crack the fuel lines nuts open at the fuel nozzles all at one time . As fuel appears close the nuts and start the engine .
The center one holds it together on the filter .as the injectors start to dribble a little bit start tightening them up one at a time. And it can take alot of engine cranking before it'll fire. That finger pump will take a long time.also if you pull the leaver out to shut it off you need to push the lever back in so the fuel will run from the tank.
Craig MacDonald but if that causes fuel to pour out, then doesn’t that mean it’s full of fuel?
Hi Chad sorry just look at my tablet. If you are talking about the filler/water separator .there will be an Oring were the clear bowl starts also one at the top cap and probably at the center bolt at the top. You did have some fuel making it to the injectors so you must have some flow. But any air in system will make it difficult to start .once the injectors start to bleed tighten them up one of the time once you get about three of them it will try to start then it'll just be once it's running backing them off bleeding them a little bit more and then letting it smooth out. I will email you .
need to bleed it thoroughly. get the rest of the air out at each step. then when cranking, wait for the bubbles to stop, when fuel starts squirting close that injector line. do that on all 4 and it will most likely start if there isnt additional problems. could help on a video chat to help you get it going if needed.
Timothy Toll I think I got it, but I’m wondering if the manual pump is no good...
@@NorthCountryOffgrid from watching your video, it seems that it is working. now one issue i have seen before is where the pump will suck air into the fuel system. that is not very common and doesnt seem like that is the issue from what i can see on your video. if you go through it and keep having issues you could put a clear glass fuel filter between the fuel pump and injector pump, and could see the air that way. but i doubt that is the issue, run through all the bleed ports again, and when cranking it, have the fuel lines that get fuel shut off right away. then it will probably spit and sputter a bit then should fire up. more than glad to help any way i can. if you are still having issues i can help over phone or video, better than having to have a mechanic come out to your place and im a certified diesel mechanic. been certified over 15 years and over 25 years in the field. wishing you the best.
My uncle years ago had an old Ford and he made some backwoods vaccuum system with a hand pump that he would attach to fuel system and vacuum it through the lines. It was old his dad gave it to him.
First of all you opened the wrong screw at the filters, thats the filter holding screw and you basically loosened the whole filter element and maybe even allowed more air to go into the system, and at least that way you can not get air out from the filter head. Bleed screw is behind that holding screw like manual said. Second, you either did not push the priming lever all the way its operating travel or your cam is on stroke so it does not pump. Use starter to turn engine to slightly different position. If that does not work your lift pump may be out. It might still pump when engine is turning, sometimes just the priming lever is out. You should feel considerable resistance on the lever when it is pumping fuel. When you open the bleed screw at the filter you should get lots of fuel pouring out when pumping. Same thing at the injection pump, fuel should SHOOT out from the bleed screws. There is no point opening the injection lines and cranking BEFORE you get air free fuel shooting from both injection pump bleed screws. After that you open the injector lines and crank it. In my experience loosening one or two is enough and works best. Remember, the lift pump should build around 5-6 psi of pressure into the system when working correctly. If it does not, it will make the bleeding very difficult or even impossible. And you can operate the starter a lot longer period at a time, 10 seconds of continuous cranking does no harm to anything and will make it easier to bleed because it allows the pressure to build up into the system.
MFV8 I appreciate the advice. With what you said, I think the manual pump may be broke then, because there wasn’t much resistance (just spring tension) so it may not be pumping at all which would make sense as to why no fuel came out of the top of the primary fuel filter...
You should open the pump and see if it is clogged with dirt, especially when the inlet screen was off at the tank. There should be two check valves in the pump, it is common that they fail at some point and the pump won't build pressure after that.
WELL DANG!!!
BEECH FAMILY HOMESTEAD haha right?!
I would do like smallblockfuelie said. You can also check the fuel pump by opening the fuel line at the inlet of the primary fuel filter and try cranking the engine.
120 Acre Wood the electric fuel pump is beyond the primary fuel filter. If I crack that line, wouldn’t it only pull air?
Yes it would but I'm talking about making sure the mechanical fuel pump is working properly. Then work your way up to the injectors one at a time. Sometimes it's trial and error. Good luck my friend
Need to tighten the injector lines up. If you are putting fuel out of three it should start. Might spray a little starting fluid into the air cleaner housing. It will run then. Once it is running go back to the injectors and crack the lines again.
Using starting fluid by an inexperienced person can severely damage a diesel engine so I wouldn't recommend him using it.
@@clydeacor1911 I said to use a little. I don't think Chad runs on what if and maybe!
@@jamespotter936 I'm just speaking from experience. I run a lot of heavy iron and trucks, farming and construction and I've lost several engines by people trying to get them going after running them out of fuel by using starting fluid. Point is there's a right way and if you bleed it and get all of the air out you'll never have to use starting fluid. Any heavy diesel mechanic that's worth anything will tell you that using starting fluid to bleed an engine is the wrong thing to do. Bleeding a fuel system really isn't that hard and if you can't bleed it then you have an entirely different problem that needs remedied, so even if you use starting fluid you'll still have a problem to figure out and fix. What I always use instead of starting fluid is I get some regular gas and put it on a rag and put the rag over the intake and just the fumes from the gas mixing with the air will make a diesel engine run. But even then you still have to be careful because a diesel engine can easily run away with itself weather you use starting fluid or gas. I've seen a lot of engines where a oil seal or turbo goes out and lets motor oil into the intake and that engine will run off of the engine oil and keep reving until it blows up. Sorry for writing a book and yes I understand where you're coming from but just from watching him on this video he didn't seem super mechanically inclined other than what he read for directions on bleeding and figured he should play it safe rather than possibly wrecking an engine then be out a tractor.
And you're right even if he's only got good fuel to 2 or 3 injectors it should pop of and start and run good enough to get the air out of the remaining injectors.
Keep pumping it should be able to get fuel all the way through to the ejectors I've done that with my 175 Massey
Hey Chad, I can feel your pain. I'm restoring one of the forerunners of your tractor. The one my son and I are working on is a Massey Harris 50. It has a Continental gas engine and the ID plate has the tractor company shown as Massey Harris Ferguson because it was a transition year to Massey Ferguson. I had problems with the fuel lines and ended up replacing it all. I was told that because of it having compression fittings that is not uncommon for the fittings to strip over time. Sorry I couldn't help you on your Massey but I wish you only the best. Larry
Larry Mixer thank you!
Chad, remove fuel filter #1 and pump the manual pump check the pressure. Prime filter #1 reinstall. Remove filter #2 manual pump, check pressure. Prime filter #2 reinstall.
Connect jumper cables to battery and a good power source to ensure good cranking.
Once the fuel filters are 100% bled go to the fuel injection pump ( i think you have a bad injection pump honestly). Bleed one spot At a time always work your way "down the line". Do the injectors have banjo bolts? I know some perkins do, if so bleed them one by one, closest to the injection pump first to the farthest last. When you think your good. Bleed it again! Its a lot of aggravating repetition but very worthwhile
If you pressurize the fuel tank with the injectors loos you should get fuel coming out of them then tighten the injectors should be good to go
Raymond Amaral how do I do that?
@@NorthCountryOffgrid Put a rag around the filler hole and an air line in it with the air flowing into the tank
Wow, so close. I was wondering if it was getting spark. I don't know if i'd open all the lines at once as you did. Those that you know are leaking are definitely getting fuel. Tighten those back up. Then try from the start. One at a time. I'm going to send this link over to Farmall to see if he can give some advice. 👍
Houndsman One good advice! That’s what I’ll try! Thank you
Great to have a pump type supply pump my friend. Getting a dedicated water separator and fuel filter will be a good thing to put in as well.That manual or lift pump may be bagged as it should give a good supply when you crack the inlet to the injection pump. Until then you won't get fuel to the injectors. Good luck bud. Another way wouls be to carefully add air pressure to the tank to get the fuel as far as the inlet to the injection pump.
Tomoko's Enterprize ugh, sounds like Spanish 🤦🏻♂️
@@NorthCountryOffgrid Crack open the inlet to the injection pump and then wrap a rag around your air compressors blow gun and slowly introduce some pressure. Not too much but more than you can blow yourself. The fuel should start coming out. Close the inlet and then go through the bleeding procedure at each injector. One at a time. Keep the tractors battery charging from your pickup to make sure the engine is spinning well. Easier on the tractor starter that way.If that doesn't work disconnect the outlet at the charge (or lift pump) and see that it is giving good squirts as the engine is turning. If not, it cavitated when the tank quit supplying fuel and will either need a kit or changed out. We can hook up by email or on Skype or ? if you like. I am,"deanlorman@gmail.com" and will be pleased to talk you through all the steps. I have been working on Massey's for a lot of years.Good luck bud. NO EITHER,. a healthy shot of WD 40 while spinning will work fine.I am assuming you have new and full filters as well.
need to change out the fuel filters first then bleed your system then once you get it fired up your good to go.... defiantly hook jumpers up while cranking and also do one at a time and make sure your getting fuel not just air bubbles …. good luck
RSW..NORTHWEST the filters are new. Hook jumpers to what?
It looked like you got it on 3 so you should tighten those up in order for the injectors to work
Darrell Foss gotcha! Thank you. I see where I went wrong 👍🏻
Small bolt on filter is to take off filter for replacement. Large nut is to bleed fuel filter.
Did you get it running? I had a similar issue. I replaced the lift pump, bled the lines meticulously, and got it to finally start. Used it for about two hours and then same thing again. I saw one comment about the o-ring from Napa in the comments thread below. I'm going to check that tomorrow. Hope you get it running, these things do a lot on your property!
As a couple have said tighten all the lines but one. Crank it tell fuel comes out for a short time. Tighten that line and move on to the next. By the time you get to the last one possible it will start. Being system was open you have a lot of air. If it starts have had to open the line to get the air out of other lines faster while running.. if you can battery charge or add battery cables to another battery so it turn over faster. She will run. and she will be smoking.lol
Clean both fuel filters.. then re bleed. It's still got air 100%..
One or more injector could be clogged as well. The longer you ran it with dirt in the system the more you need to clean. And re bleed. The stream of fuel will be steady just like at the first spot u bled.
The filters are new. So I guess figure out how to clean injectors???
@@NorthCountryOffgrid yes sir. Mine is a Ford. So I'm not sure if they are the same I'll do some checking and let you know!! Cheers
I'm sorry Chad, your feeling just a tad bit pissed off right now but, remember the Lord isn't going to give us more than we can handle 😏🙄 don't give up, you'll figure it out.
What finally worked for you to get it running?
:O🚜👍
Dont loosen the small one cause that's holding up the glass bottom of filter , also there's a gauze filter in the pump its like the biggest nut there and has a small one screw into it at the side/back of the injector pump then she should bleed no bother make sure ur heater plugs work as well .......
Fuel pump!
A way to save your starter if you have an air compressor and a blow gun and a rag. Take your fuel cap off and pressurize it. Go thru the cranking bleed screws like this and will save the aggrivation of pumping that little primer. They suck. Also 1 injection line at a time
A couple of questions. Won't the fuel eat up the rubber hose? Is the petcock a plastic knob? Won't the exhaust manifold melt it?
Robin Jaeger the hose is a fuel line specific hose so I should be good, also the petcock Knox is a hard plastic but I don’t think it’s close enough to warm up...
Pay ether to intake.
I read the comments and Bill is using WD as starting fluid. Just a few shots should do it. She’ll fire keep at it...crank it for 20 or 30 secs at a time..don’t get your starter too hot and burn it up. Have Shelby crank it and you video... your bad luck. 😉
Hi @North Country Off Grid, how did you solve your problem, I have the same here
Clean all the fuel system out
I will try that, hopefully it works😎
Exact problem as yours back then, especially the part of not getting any on the top vent😪
@@NorthCountryOffgrid Thanks for the help, all full system cleaned👍🏽
Oh, so close. Are you supposed to bleed all injectors at the same time, or one at a time?
John Klopp sounds like 1 at a time... gotta re do it
you must verify that the lift pump Isnt already engaged. lifting the lever will do nothing if the engine is in the wrong position. crack the banjo fitting on the fuel filter, not the center bolt.
ok start from the start do you feel pressure when pumping the fuel lever, break loose the line coming out of the primer pump and pump it are you getting fuel but if I remember right it pumps fuel pushing the lever down, but that depends on which way it takes to make the plunger move, if you don't get anything take the pump off and hook up the fuel line and move the lever on the back of the pump to see if it pumps its either a arm or a tappet that is operated by the camshaft there is a lobe on the camshaft that is for the supply pump if you arm getting fuel then go back and reprime the system if there is no fuel then get another supply pump, and is that tractor have a shut off lever or rod to pull to shut it off if it does shove it in and have it in the rum position, if it doesn't then there should be a insulated terminal on the top cover of the pump check and see if you have current there that wire operates the shutoff solenoid inside the pump so when bleeding turn the switch on to allow fuel to flow then continue to prime till you get fuel out of the top bleed screw then procede to the injectors and bleed them 1 at a tile cause with a distributor pump it can suck air in so its best to bleed 1 at a time sometimes it will fire with 1 or 2 lines bleed and will get the air out running if you still need help let me know and i'll send you my number and you can text me and I will try to help you I used to work for central diesel they were a deutz and perkins dealer and a fuel injection shop
Did u get it started having the same problem my dad always told me not to run it out of diesel cause it's hard to get the sir out rebuilt it and cant goethe air out
Hi @Kori McKinney, I have the same problem? How did you fix yours?
Hello y’all like the video buddy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🙏🏼🍼🍼🍼🍼🍼🍼
That looks like a project and a half but I believe that beard can solve anything. It always seems to not work if it sits at all and that goes for anything.
Happy Colorado Homestead thanks buddy! It’s pissing me off, but hopefully I get it figured out!
looks like you hand pump is gone, the lever move to easy, like nothing is there, but that should also be your main lift pump,looks like.. but the lift pump may be gone as well if it has one..the one you pumping being it hooked to the block should be it as well.. take line off and turn over see if its it pumping, injector pump needs positive presser, they dont suck, you cant skip steps it is telling you to do.... these oldy buy goodies need to be babied not like shit today
Do u have any ether spray?
An inexperienced person can destroy a diesel engine with ether so I wouldn't suggest him using any.
I do, but I’m hesitant to use it
Is the rubber hose ethanol resistant for winter use?
It's a diesel, it shouldn't have any ethanol in it!
@@clydeacor1911 The additives in the winter to control gelling are often alcohol based or when biodiesel is used strait ethanol
Just like fuel treatments to reduce water in the fuels are almost pure methanol
@@TheUserid82 ethanol is used in gas but not diesel. Winter grade diesel is just #1 diesel blended with #2 diesel and diesel additives have 0 ethanol because ethanol will damage injection pumps on a diesel. That's why diesel additive bottles say no ethanol added. What gels diesel in the winter is the paraffin wax that is in #2diesel and #1 diesel is basically kerosene which thins out the wax. In older mechanical diesel engines we would just add 10% unleaded gas as an additive which worked awesome. But these newer engines systems are too sensitive to put a lot of the old additives in it now days.
It is a fuel line hose👍🏻
I was wondering if you had your fuel line that you jimmy rigged far enough away from the block so when you do get it running it doesnt melt the hose. If it is too close it could be a fire hazard. PS.. auto zone sells a fuel line you can custom make and nuts that are self sealing if you decide to change that to metal. As for the other problem of not getting fuel are you sure the lines are not clogged from deposits? seem strange that you get fuel on some but not others. Tells me the pump is working.... Guess i would say see if you are getting anything through those lines. ( crank it and have someone feel if the line is pushing anything)
someone someone it is away from the block, we should be good, but I’ll keep an eye on it👍🏻
Chad I know a guy that is really into old tractors and I will send him a message and see if he has any ideas.
He is a retired engineer type and has a tree farm. So he speaks english and not just tech.
Also one other thought. Are you sure that the manual says crack all the injector lines at the same time? I would think that doing one at a time like you would do with brake bleeders would be the way to clear it so that noting pulls back in. Also that battery sounds not that well charged. If I could find someone to care for my critters I might be willing to take a road trip.
I still have some battery tools sitting here that I need to send you. I am planning to maybe go to Payette and that being part way for me.....
More to add. Any air in the system is going to cause a fail. That top bleeder is the one I think you want to see fuel at. In looking at some photos of the filter that screw is the point in the circuit that leads to the next and so long as it has air you will have problems. You might clean it up all arond and then fill with fuel. Did you put in new filters? One of those two is the one that holds the filter to the housing and the other is the bleeder. If you loosing the bold that holds the filter then you will also get some fuel leaking but air will also get back in.
Sean Not-telling appreciate it! The fuel filters are brand new👍🏻
@@NorthCountryOffgrid I got word back from Jack and he said he has no clue with your tractor. I did find a few things and stuck valves in the pump can also cause an issue.
The one bolt that the manual says is the bleeder I think is the one you want. I was looking at a new cover on ebay and they had some good photos. The priming pump should give you a squirt and not just a dribble. It might be a case where the valves in it are sticking and not moving the fuel. I would remove the hose where is goes into the filter and try the pump to see if you can get a good squirt out of the hose when you move the lever.
PLEASE!. Do NOT use ether starting fluid to crank yuh our tractor!!!...You can easily damage the pistons, rings, etc! ..WD 40 will work very well!!...
Not real fond of the idea of using a hose like that. I would use steel line and maybe a compression union to join them together.
pcguys-off-grid-cabin I may need to just replace all the lines...🤦🏻♂️
@@NorthCountryOffgrid I don't think you need to replace all of them, just get rid of the flex hose from the tank to where it joins the metal line. I'm just concerned that all the moving around and such could cause it to leak later on and then you have problems.
Sooo close man! I wish I could be of help, I want to hear that beast come to life!!!
Did you check the muffler bearings? 🤣
Living the Dream Homestead this thing had walnuts in the air intake. I should have left them in there🤣
Just sent you my phone # on gmail..call if I can help..(You can block your # if you want ..)