I agree - what a cool alternate use of the tool. In another video he mentions the Botach receiver extension block which looks like it could be used the same way.
I already knew most of this information but I still watch things like this because there's always something I can learn in these type of videos and you don't disappoint great video! Keep up the good work
Guess I need to break down and stake my castle nut! Been waiting until I got my bench made (should be finished today) and installed my vice. Thank you for your time and information.
Thank you for all the great information you give us, I hope and pray you and your family feel better . A big thanks to your wife for when she can video for you . You still did fine !
Good to know in the beginning I knew I would want to change endplates. Now that I know this and have my endplates to install I will definitely be doing some staking
Removed one recently, mine would not budge until I used a tiny flat head screw driver to pry out the displaced material. Then it came off easy. Good indication of how effective staking is however
The real trick is finding a sure fire way of the extension not clocking when tightening the castle nut. I put a stock on and try to time the extension a couple degrees past bottom dead center. Then, when tightening, I put counter force on the tube by way of pressing my torso against the stock. It will still inevitably move a bit but hopefully not more than a couple of degrees. Sometimes I can get it to dead center first try, other times it takes a couple go's at it. The LMT extension tube is the best way I have found to get around that issue. They manufacture a tongue into the threads which will pin itself against the retainer pin, not allowing the tube to rotate past center when tightening. It's a Godsend if you get frustrated with crooked receiver extensions, just wish they made A5 length.
As a machinist I can confirm. Just makes it harder to take it off. Even if you smashed some threads, depending on how hard the nut is it will just reform the threads on the way out. Now welding on the other hand...lol
The Geissele block used to be 100 bucks. The second covid kicked in it jumped to 200 bucks. Maybe something else is going on behind the scenes but once that happened I got super turned off by Geissele. I love their triggers and rails, but what the hell makes them think the reaction block is worth 200 bucks when its especially only good for milspec tubes? My opinion is save the money and get the KZ. So far it has held up just as good as the geissele and is 60-70 bucks. Just my .02.
I had my hand crushed and arm injured in Houston and a few Drs I had and an imaging center I used had a corporate office that was part of Radical Firearms , was wondering if they are well known and what the quality is ? I saw the manufacturing and showroom while I was at the corporate medical office.
I agree with some comments, like to get that reaction block. I have an older Olympic Arms "LE Carbine" . That castle nut is staked like Thor drove a spike into the end plate. I cannot get it off. I'm sure a gunsmith could but damn that's not going anywhere. Good video, thanks.
My buddy has a BCM complete lower and they do some pretty aggressive staking as well. I don’t know what they use, but the dimple is square instead of round.
I used the smallest punch + hammer and tapped the nubs back down.. It was still a pain to remove but I was able to do it with just the armorer's tool...
I would like to hear your opinion on a topic. I have a question about the Voltor A5 rec extension tube. I have a silencer and wanted to know if using a A5 rec extension would be beneficial or should I just use a heavier buffer and or buffer spring to slow cycling? I’m currently running a H3 buffer, standard spring, on a Daniel Defense MK18 10.3” barrel. Ejection pattern with current set up suppressed is about 2 O’clock.
I gaulled the buffer tubes threads taking mine off recently because I needed to fix something stupid I did on my first build from inexperience. It all went back together ok and seems solid even though those couple threads are gone. Is this something I should worry about replacing the tube on or dont worry about it since the other threads are holding it together? I think in my inexperience I had loctited the threads and that's what caused the screw up. I'm a little more knowledgeable now after a few more builds and a lot more research but that first build is my baby
So, I am currently running a POF renegade plus. It uses a steel castle nut, but a 6061-T6 alum end plate. I staked it but was wondering if the alum is strong enough for the staking to do its job properly under somewhat harder use. Granted it is only preventing vibrating loose, am I over thinking it?
Is there a reason to replace the buffer tube periodically? I have a lower with 8k rounds I replaced the bolt catch, the mag release and the fcg. Just curious.
During assembly, if the extension is Canted like that , would backing the nut off and rotating the receiver counterclockwise and re tightening, would that work? Or am I thinking incorrectly?
I got a little tactical sling attachment that I was going to take and remove the buffer tube and install on my rifle but then I discovered that the same thing could be done using a clamp so I'm just going to go with the clamp I don't really see any reason to be disassembling my rifle any further right now I don't have some of the stuff I need to do it anyway so why do it
You should show how you properly stake the castle nut /end plate . If you have showed it in another video before which one . I’d like to see how to do it properly and I’m sure you do it with the same attention to detail you do everything else . I can’t think of a. Enter place to see it done properly
I can appreciate one's meticulous attention to detail but I have ran my ARs to the ground without issue. The only issue is that I am too lazy to clean my own weapon and if a malfunction happens, well - thank the training
About reuse of the castle nut. Even if it did line up with the old staking position, if there was no a replacements available due to legal restrictions or end of all commerce in such items, with a dremel tool or a file or other tools new notches could be made. I know that is not the sort of gun assembly that is advocated here, but people must always be conscious of workarounds due to necessity.
I have had difficult times tying to get the buffer tubed clocked properly when torquing the castle nut. Kind of annoying to me. What is the best method to keep the buffer tube clocked properly? I have used several method such as the geissele buffer reaction block and a mag block. Even with the Geissele Reaction Block the receiver tends to rotate.
I'm curious; is there any real advantage or need for staking the castle nut? Excellent video, btw. Concise, to the point, and very clear in message delivery.
Staking helps make absolutely sure your castle nut does not come loose, which is common on ARs without a staked nut. However diligent re-tightening also works fine as well, not staking can also be advantageous if you replace and mess with parts alot.
I hope THAT ‘timing’ of the receiver extension is not the ONLY reason he’s “destroying” the SOLG factory job. Looks perfect to me..and EVEN IF it’s slightly off, it’s SO close as not to be worth it IMO. (But It is what it is..)
I've never noticed such a thing and have never heard anyone complain about it. But sure enough, I checked my ARs and almost all of them were clocked off center. But like I said, I'd never even noticed it before and I sure as hell don't care about it now anymore than I did before lol. Just thought it was funny. What a strange thing to send your gun to an armorer for.
are there any negative effects of not staking a castle nut? I built my first rifle and I'm going to be taking it to that range soon, i'd rather not run into silly issues on my first run
It can come loose over time. Duty/service rifles should be staked, but it's not a major problem for range guns. I keep a small combo castle but wrench and 1911 bushing wrench in my bag. OTOH, having a buffer tube come loose during a "critical incident" could be bad. None of mine are staked, yet, but I'll stake them when I finally stop fiddling with different end plates and such.
Good video and I am not really surprised at all seeing as the castle nuts are aluminum... I have never staked any of my builds and never had one come loose yet
I guess every one has their own experience. I had a rifle that I replaced the end plate on, so I could use a single point sling. I tightened the buffer tube and castle nut down, and did not stake it. First rifle class I went to, later that year, within 600 rounds the buffer tube was loose. Didn't cause any jams or malfunctions, and I caught it before the buffer retaining pin disappeared, but did mean the stock was loose. When I got home from the class, I re-torqued the castle nut, and made sure the stock was clocked correctly, and staked the nut in two places. The next year, I was able to attend a patrol carbine class, same rifle. No issues with the castle nut getting loose. I'm a believer now, and will just treat end plates as disposable- since they're cheap enough and I don't remove the buffer tube often. Or, since I made the changes to my rifle that I wanted, at all.
In auto mechanics, we stake axle nuts (they hold the drive axle in the wheel hub to transmit the rotational energy through the axles, to the hub, and to the wheels via the lugs). Just takes a little extra torque from an impact wrench to overcome the clamping force. No big deal. The purpose of staking is a mechanical method of preventing fasteners from rotating due to vibration. At least, an additional mechanical way. The primary way is proper torquing of the fastener, but there are instances in which an additional load needs to be placed on the fastener. That's when you typically use split washers (which "bind" the threads together to attempt to prevent rotation). And the chemical way to do this is thread locker. I'm no engineer though, so if the firearms engineers decided to use staking, there's a reason for it. Stick with it.
Just my luck , so sad. I was also needing guidance on keeping the extension buffer tube straight. When i tighten to 40 lbs. it seems to always get clocked a little past clockwise even with the groove in the retainer plate aligned perfect with the buffer extension tube. Wondering if you had a video on this or if the Geissele block would come into play? Thanks, and Absolutely love the attention to detail.
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
@@m118lr It's a great wrench. I would say overpriced for sure. You can often find them at a very deep discount. I would never pay MSRP on one. There are other options that are just as good or better for less.
@@HolyShitAccess Have dozens of build & have never staked them with no problems. I put locktite on a couple of my 1st builds but don't even do that anymore.
@@11C1P That's why I'm curious. The castle nut is functionally a jam nut, jam nuts are used to lock fasteners in lieu of other methods. Doubling up on locking methods seems...odd.
I just got done installing an Vltor A5 on my truck gun and did some really nice looking staking to it. It's actually fairly easy. This was only my second time and everyone says it looks perfect.
They are single use as well. PWS says not to reuse them. That’s an expensive single use part. End plates are way cheaper. While the PWS ratcheting castle nut is more secure than not staking or using only Loctite they have had their own issues. I’ve talked to a few people that have had them come loose. That was an expensive solution looking for a problem that didn’t really exist. You can stake a castle nut with ease using a 3 dollar harbor freight center punch.
As soon as I saw you bump that geissele reaction block up against the wrench I decided I wanted one. Genius!
I just use any ar stock to a similar effect
I agree - what a cool alternate use of the tool. In another video he mentions the Botach receiver extension block which looks like it could be used the same way.
yep I just ordered one myself
The "Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce" gave him the power to bust the staking loose!
I hope your wife feels better soon.
“Staked castle nuts are not permanent”
It’s sad many don’t know this 🤦♂️
Maybe they just say that to have an excuse to buy another lower ;)
I already knew most of this information but I still watch things like this because there's always something I can learn in these type of videos and you don't disappoint great video! Keep up the good work
thank you for your time and content; god bless you and your family and loved ones, you are a blessing to the 2A community sir.
I genuinely found this helpful, because I was wondering how easy it would be. Thanks.
I'm learning very nicely from your tricks. Thank you very much.
Guess I need to break down and stake my castle nut! Been waiting until I got my bench made (should be finished today) and installed my vice. Thank you for your time and information.
As an amateur in AR's. your channel has been by far the most helpful. Thank you Sir.
Thank you! Happy Holidays!
Awesome video. Would love to see you do a buffer tube install and staking video. I had issues getting them perfectly straight too.
New to your videos and loving it buddy. Castle nut is the first thing I grab when someone says "my rifle feels kinda loose"
Thank you for all the great information you give us, I hope and pray you and your family feel better .
A big thanks to your wife for when she can video for you . You still did fine !
Thanks William
I've been watching your videos all day and that is the second one from SOA that has been clocked off to the side.
I always learn something! Thank you sir.
Good to know in the beginning I knew I would want to change endplates.
Now that I know this and have my endplates to install I will definitely be doing some staking
Thank you for explaining this: it cleared up a lot of confusion on my part.
Thanks for teaching us!
Removed one recently, mine would not budge until I used a tiny flat head screw driver to pry out the displaced material. Then it came off easy. Good indication of how effective staking is however
The real trick is finding a sure fire way of the extension not clocking when tightening the castle nut. I put a stock on and try to time the extension a couple degrees past bottom dead center. Then, when tightening, I put counter force on the tube by way of pressing my torso against the stock. It will still inevitably move a bit but hopefully not more than a couple of degrees. Sometimes I can get it to dead center first try, other times it takes a couple go's at it. The LMT extension tube is the best way I have found to get around that issue. They manufacture a tongue into the threads which will pin itself against the retainer pin, not allowing the tube to rotate past center when tightening. It's a Godsend if you get frustrated with crooked receiver extensions, just wish they made A5 length.
Great information!!!
It's just extra insurance that it won't loosen during the vibration of shooting.
BCM does a awesome job staking as well.
Agree
Sturmgewehr556 you are correct
Agree and its bitch to break off.
Poor guy sounds like he has the Covid ... Needs a shot of "antiseptic". . Aged in oak....
D.A. Risse aged in oak 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good video.
Hand staker here. I always stake 'em.
Subbed just for the Sriracha!!!! love the content.
Absolutely LOVE Forward Controls Design
love your videos! Blows my mind, however, that someone would drop their firearm off with someone for this kind of basic work.
Good know along with a few other hundred things you have shown! Thanks.
As a machinist I can confirm. Just makes it harder to take it off.
Even if you smashed some threads, depending on how hard the nut is it will just reform the threads on the way out.
Now welding on the other hand...lol
I'd like to see a video of the tools you use, brand and where to get them!
He has done countless videos on his tool collection.... quite a few are custom tho
I really want one of those Geissele reaction blocks, but the $200 price tag is ridiculous.
Is that Corona price hike or was it always that much? I cheap-ed out on a 'Reaction Rod-like' tool from Brownells.
A LOT of stuff from Geissele is WAY OVER-priced
I am not sure if it is the covid price, or the reaction block is twice as good as a couple years back. I paid $99 for it a few years back.
The Geissele block used to be 100 bucks. The second covid kicked in it jumped to 200 bucks. Maybe something else is going on behind the scenes but once that happened I got super turned off by Geissele. I love their triggers and rails, but what the hell makes them think the reaction block is worth 200 bucks when its especially only good for milspec tubes? My opinion is save the money and get the KZ. So far it has held up just as good as the geissele and is 60-70 bucks. Just my .02.
@@m118lr especially their magazines and trigger assemblies
I had my hand crushed and arm injured in Houston and a few Drs I had and an imaging center I used had a corporate office that was part of Radical Firearms , was wondering if they are well known and what the quality is ? I saw the manufacturing and showroom while I was at the corporate medical office.
Appreciate this video brother
great content awesome info: I like the aesthetics of that castle nut do you know if it is a SOLGW castle nut? or different a brand?
I agree with some comments, like to get that reaction block. I have an older Olympic Arms "LE Carbine" . That castle nut is staked like Thor drove a spike into the end plate. I cannot get it off. I'm sure a gunsmith could but damn that's not going anywhere. Good video, thanks.
you scratched the shit out of the buffer tube. im sure the owner will be pissed about that.
Great info Sir, thanks! I want to get a good wrench. Which one are you using in this video?
Great video, thanks
My buddy has a BCM complete lower and they do some pretty aggressive staking as well. I don’t know what they use, but the dimple is square instead of round.
I used the smallest punch + hammer and tapped the nubs back down.. It was still a pain to remove but I was able to do it with just the armorer's tool...
I would like to hear your opinion on a topic. I have a question about the Voltor A5 rec extension tube. I have a silencer and wanted to know if using a A5 rec extension would be beneficial or should I just use a heavier buffer and or buffer spring to slow cycling? I’m currently running a H3 buffer, standard spring, on a Daniel Defense MK18 10.3” barrel. Ejection pattern with current set up suppressed is about 2 O’clock.
I gaulled the buffer tubes threads taking mine off recently because I needed to fix something stupid I did on my first build from inexperience. It all went back together ok and seems solid even though those couple threads are gone. Is this something I should worry about replacing the tube on or dont worry about it since the other threads are holding it together? I think in my inexperience I had loctited the threads and that's what caused the screw up. I'm a little more knowledgeable now after a few more builds and a lot more research but that first build is my baby
Can you show us in a video how to do the buffer tube alignment , i been having trouble with my buffer tubes that are not straight
So, I am currently running a POF renegade plus. It uses a steel castle nut, but a 6061-T6 alum end plate. I staked it but was wondering if the alum is strong enough for the staking to do its job properly under somewhat harder use. Granted it is only preventing vibrating loose, am I over thinking it?
Is there a reason to replace the buffer tube periodically? I have a lower with 8k rounds I replaced the bolt catch, the mag release and the fcg. Just curious.
You got a lot of cool videos and tools
What bolt catch is on this lower? Does the wider "Paddle" cause any type of problem?
During assembly, if the extension is Canted like that , would backing the nut off and rotating the receiver counterclockwise and re tightening, would that work? Or am I thinking incorrectly?
You are correct.
I got a little tactical sling attachment that I was going to take and remove the buffer tube and install on my rifle but then I discovered that the same thing could be done using a clamp so I'm just going to go with the clamp I don't really see any reason to be disassembling my rifle any further right now I don't have some of the stuff I need to do it anyway so why do it
I’m loving how consistent you are with dropping videos lately. You still did a good job without your wife 👍. Keep up the good work!
What brand Magazine well Block is that, looks Adjustable for Fit.
You should show how you properly stake the castle nut /end plate . If you have showed it in another video before which one . I’d like to see how to do it properly and I’m sure you do it with the same attention to detail you do everything else . I can’t think of a. Enter place to see it done properly
I will in a separate video. I'll show several tools and methods.
Thanks for the reply’s. Keep up the great videos
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle you still gonna do this?
@@xCaPz yes. Thank you for the reminder
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle No problem, would love to see how you do it. I almost have all the parts to build my first AR.
Thank you Sir
How do you get the recieve extension and stock perfectly straight ? When you tighten everything back up?
He made a video for that too.
Leverage is an amazing thing.
dang, i wanna 3d print something like the reaction block now. I always slip off the castle nut ahha
Check out the Forward Controls Design JCW, it has a lip which sits over the edge of the castle nut to help prevent the wrench teeth from jumping.
Nice brother 👌
yeah my DD castle nut was staked in 2 spots and was easy to get off
Sooo am i hearing slight bit of blue lock tight to help make it a more temp permanent torqued castle nut?
Awesome to know, thanks man
Just takes a little more elbow grease to get the nut loose. It wont come loose from normal use
Could I drop a barrel off and stake a geissele sub on a 308 plz
Great video
Hot sauce is critical, no shop should be without it.
My Geissele super duty has amazing staking, best ive seen this far.
Can I just use blue loc tite instead of staking it ?
Have you tried the PWS Ratchet Castle nut and End plate before?
Don't. It's designed for a SINGLE USE not on and off.
Ive used loctite on a castlenut in the past. Is the loctite going to cause issues in the long run?
Who makes that mag well block you're using?
I’m new to this so forgive my ignorance. Why is staking better than Loctite?
I can appreciate one's meticulous attention to detail but I have ran my ARs to the ground without issue. The only issue is that I am too lazy to clean my own weapon and if a malfunction happens, well - thank the training
About reuse of the castle nut. Even if it did line up with the old staking position, if there was no a replacements available due to legal restrictions or end of all commerce in such items, with a dremel tool or a file or other tools new notches could be made. I know that is not the sort of gun assembly that is advocated here, but people must always be conscious of workarounds due to necessity.
What’s your thoughts on the ratcheting castle nuts/end plates?
solution to problem that doesn't exist.
Would adding a little red loc-tite be overkill?
I have had difficult times tying to get the buffer tubed clocked properly when torquing the castle nut. Kind of annoying to me. What is the best method to keep the buffer tube clocked properly? I have used several method such as the geissele buffer reaction block and a mag block. Even with the Geissele Reaction Block the receiver tends to rotate.
I posted a video last week showing what I use. Two vises, a reaction block, and a mag block.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I was actually thinking of using two vises a few weeks ago. lol
Why not just use a little blue lok tite?
I have often wondered why they did not make a sacrificial washer like on jeep hubs? Fold it down, nut locked in tight.
Do you have an opinion on Primary Weapon's ratchet castle nut?
I'm curious; is there any real advantage or need for staking the castle nut?
Excellent video, btw. Concise, to the point, and very clear in message delivery.
Staking helps make absolutely sure your castle nut does not come loose, which is common on ARs without a staked nut. However diligent re-tightening also works fine as well, not staking can also be advantageous if you replace and mess with parts alot.
@@Daizenzetsu thank you.
The factory staking on my IWI ZION looks identical to that.
Both the endplate and Castle nut are steel?
How about that permanent scratch that you put on the buffer tube when the wrench slid down it.
I hope THAT ‘timing’ of the receiver extension is not the ONLY reason he’s “destroying” the SOLG factory job. Looks perfect to me..and EVEN IF it’s slightly off, it’s SO close as not to be worth it IMO. (But It is what it is..)
I've never noticed such a thing and have never heard anyone complain about it. But sure enough, I checked my ARs and almost all of them were clocked off center. But like I said, I'd never even noticed it before and I sure as hell don't care about it now anymore than I did before lol. Just thought it was funny. What a strange thing to send your gun to an armorer for.
Should castle nuts come staked from the factory? I've noticed that some pricier ar's don't come staked when more budget ones do?
My M&p pistol came staked from smith and Wesson
are there any negative effects of not staking a castle nut? I built my first rifle and I'm going to be taking it to that range soon, i'd rather not run into silly issues on my first run
It can come loose over time. Duty/service rifles should be staked, but it's not a major problem for range guns. I keep a small combo castle but wrench and 1911 bushing wrench in my bag.
OTOH, having a buffer tube come loose during a "critical incident" could be bad.
None of mine are staked, yet, but I'll stake them when I finally stop fiddling with different end plates and such.
Good video and I am not really surprised at all seeing as the castle nuts are aluminum...
I have never staked any of my builds and never had one come loose yet
I guess every one has their own experience. I had a rifle that I replaced the end plate on, so I could use a single point sling.
I tightened the buffer tube and castle nut down, and did not stake it. First rifle class I went to, later that year, within 600 rounds the buffer tube was loose.
Didn't cause any jams or malfunctions, and I caught it before the buffer retaining pin disappeared, but did mean the stock was loose.
When I got home from the class, I re-torqued the castle nut, and made sure the stock was clocked correctly, and staked the nut in two places.
The next year, I was able to attend a patrol carbine class, same rifle. No issues with the castle nut getting loose.
I'm a believer now, and will just treat end plates as disposable- since they're cheap enough and I don't remove the buffer tube often. Or, since I made the changes to my rifle that I wanted, at all.
In auto mechanics, we stake axle nuts (they hold the drive axle in the wheel hub to transmit the rotational energy through the axles, to the hub, and to the wheels via the lugs). Just takes a little extra torque from an impact wrench to overcome the clamping force. No big deal.
The purpose of staking is a mechanical method of preventing fasteners from rotating due to vibration. At least, an additional mechanical way. The primary way is proper torquing of the fastener, but there are instances in which an additional load needs to be placed on the fastener. That's when you typically use split washers (which "bind" the threads together to attempt to prevent rotation). And the chemical way to do this is thread locker.
I'm no engineer though, so if the firearms engineers decided to use staking, there's a reason for it. Stick with it.
I never seen a staked castle nut on any vehicle. They always use Kotter pins through them.
Who makes the armorers tool you used in the video? I have the magpul but i can see the advantages of this one as someone else noted.
Tapco. Unfortunately they are discontinued.
Just my luck , so sad. I was also needing guidance on keeping the extension buffer tube straight. When i tighten to 40 lbs. it seems to always get clocked a little past clockwise even with the groove in the retainer plate aligned perfect with the buffer extension tube. Wondering if you had a video on this or if the Geissele block would come into play? Thanks, and Absolutely love the attention to detail.
Why not a set screw?
My Stag castle nut looks exactly like that. Double staked.
Couldn’t you push the stock up against the A R wrench and get the same affect
Good idea, almost dropped 200 bones on that damn tool. Thanks for sharing that.
What wrench is that?
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
What's even easier is a ratcheting castle nut, on off, on off, no muss, no fuss.
I like that armorer's wrench. With the Magpul wrench you have to remove the stock.
Agreed. The Magpul wrench was (IS in my case) waaaay over-hyped...
@@m118lr It's a great wrench. I would say overpriced for sure. You can often find them at a very deep discount. I would never pay MSRP on one. There are other options that are just as good or better for less.
What wrench is he using?
He's using a Tapco brand wrench here.
@@EarthAltar Magpul wrenches also don't fit pistol tubes.
what's the difference in breakaway torque between a staked castle nut and an unstaked castle nut?
@@HolyShitAccess Have dozens of build & have never staked them with no problems. I put locktite on a couple of my 1st builds but don't even do that anymore.
@@11C1P That's why I'm curious. The castle nut is functionally a jam nut, jam nuts are used to lock fasteners in lieu of other methods. Doubling up on locking methods seems...odd.
I just got done installing an Vltor A5 on my truck gun and did some really nice looking staking to it. It's actually fairly easy. This was only my second time and everyone says it looks perfect.
What did you use to do it? The special tool or a punch?
Been building AR's since 1980 and never staked one yet.
Why not use a pws ratcheting castle nut. Are they no bueno?
They are single use as well. PWS says not to reuse them. That’s an expensive single use part. End plates are way cheaper. While the PWS ratcheting castle nut is more secure than not staking or using only Loctite they have had their own issues. I’ve talked to a few people that have had them come loose.
That was an expensive solution looking for a problem that didn’t really exist. You can stake a castle nut with ease using a 3 dollar harbor freight center punch.