You are very welcome. I didn't think that 3 minutes was very long. I guess some people don't have the patience for even a 3 minute video, but then take 4 minutes to leave comments with a poor attitude. Thanks for having my back :-)
Humm, unscrew the buffer tube (not shown in the video) and ...... Whang!!! out comes that pin that keeps the buffer spring in place with its little spring, and about 90 miles an hour, apparently headed for space. After a half hour search I found both parts. Moral: When unscrewing the buffer tube, hold on to that little black pin.
word of warning: If you camp down on the receiver, when you unscrew the castle nut and the castle nut is very tight, you could very possibly STRIP the buffer tube. This happened to me! Here's how it could be striped: IF the force required to unscrew the castle nut is HIGHER than the force required to strip the indentation on the bottom of the buffer tube WITH the retaining plate, then the little notch on the retaining plate will ABSOLUTELY rip out from the that little indentation on the buffer tube. To avoid this, take the upper completely off and clamp down on the butt stock. You have been warned!
I fucked my buffer tube up because my new ar15 was staked, I didn't know, and assumed I could just unscrew it. Lucky I got it off and already had a new buffer tube to put on
I do not see why you would not be able to re-stake and use the same one. Because of my OCD, it would bother me too much to reuse the old one so I got a new one.
+FRIGGIN' BROBOCOP ...absolutely zero, I've built a few...tight will suffice just fine...no loctite or staking needed....anti walk pins are a must though...
Try that on a DPMS lower and destroy your buffer tube and castle nut.... There are companies that stake in castle nuts so deep that it is close to impossible to get them off properly w/o hurting parts on the weapon.
Most solid as fu** factory stake jobs aren't going to come off without that wrench either stripping/slipping off the grooves or bending the wrench for most of these individuals. And if that happens they're going to gouge up their buffer tube, or worse... Either dremel it down or use a drill bit to grind some of the stake out of the castle nut groove. Then just replace the castle nut and end plate after. They're cheap parts to replace.. . No point in risking damage to the rest of the rifle.
Not too keen on just wrenching it, especially when more than one position is staked. Using a small SHARP chisel with the flat side towards the receiver you can CAREFULLY cut away most of the stake without damaging the surrounding parts. Then using a wrench for that final bit. TRY IT, and if you find it works for you too, might consider redoing this video.
Great video dude! Okay, but then is that buffer plate useless after that? In other words, is it true that after you stake an end plate it is only good for that one use and no more builds or applications? Thanks!
It depends on where it lines up with the castle nut. If it snugs down in a different spot you will bee able to reuse it and still stake the nut. If it lines up in the original spor, it needs to be replaced. Hope that helps.
You may be surprised how easy it is to do a lot of the stuff that gunsmiths get paid to do. Make sure and check out my other videos as well. I show you exactly how to do a lot of things yourself. Thank you for watching!
There were some other people that mentioned that on arfcom. For learning purposes, can you tell me what went wrong and how you stripped the buffer tube?
Good video about how to loosen the castle nut but what else I would like to see is how to properly hold your firearm while you are wrenching on it. What to do, what not to do,,,, I have an AR15/.45 that takes Glock 21 mags and I havn't been able to find anything on UA-cam a bout this kind of set-up
My Colt is staked 3 times from the factory (3 notches).... have you run into that? And do you use the same method... or is there another way to address multiple stakes?
did you figure out how to remove the castle nut on your Colt? Mine is staked in 4 places and it looks like they had used a press machine to do it, it definitely wasn't done with a punch and a hammer. I was wondering if you found out any tricks or information to help? Thanks
Did you skip the part where you did something to the stake? It looked like some damage was done to it. Or can I just use wrench pressure and the stack will break?
I got to bring it up an poke some fun being a few videos you mentioned keeping it mil-spec. But your rail isn't, your trigger isn't, your pistol grip isn't, your bolt an carrier isn't. Lol she's a pretty sweet safe queen but slightly mil-spec really if any besides a couple staked things. Great videos. Just couldn't help but to point that out
Just out of curiosity... How do you RE stake the nut once it has that little dent there? Awesome video...wish I had known about the castle nut b4 my DPMS came unraveled. I carried the M16A2 in the Army but it was full stock so I wasn't even aware of the possibility of misfeeding through castle nut backing...oh well..
I’ve watched all your vids. You are one of if not the most knowledgeable guy on UA-cam with ARs. I’ve built over 75 of them and still look to you for info. Thanks for all these vids man. Great job
Thanks for the help. Im new to ARs but not in shooting. I saw my PSA lower has been staked and thought it was going to be a big deal. If anybody is wondering im replacing the stock tube to a anti-tilt tube and a H3 buffer system for my Wolf A1 upper. Its over gassed and rips the brimming right off the shells.
I use a small Dremel tool with the thin grinding disk. As part of my extensive tool collection. LOL. It works really nice and it's a clean look. It also makes re staking a little easier and has a clean look for the next time. 🐢🇺🇸👍
I purposefully decided NOT to stake my castle nut simply because I want to be able to easily change my stock in the future. Tightened to 40 lbs and a little loctite makes me sleep well at night.
I would say the reason it busted free easily for him was because the staked material from the end plate was so brittle due to how much material was shaped into the notch that some simple elbow grease was gonna be enough to break it free. Either the end plate or the threads on the buffer tube or castle nut will give up.
I just put the wrench on the castle nut and started to turn and the buffer tube and the nut turned together. So the key in the plate ended up striping the keyway grove on the buffer tube. I have no idea how it happened but it was a very costly mistake. I don't know why the mil-spec key and keyway are much smaller than a commercial one...you would think it would be better having a larger key on the plat and a larger keyway on the tube.
And to think, I was going to pay the local gunsmith $25 to unstake my BCM lowers castle nut. Only thing I gotta do is get me one of those nifty wrenches and put some elbow grease into it.
+Richard It's only there to keep the castle nut from loosening, so yes it was a sufficient staking. It being torqued to 40lbs of torque and then staked like, it wasn't coming off.
Richard Any company who properly stakes their rifles double stakes them, some triple stake them. Also no it is not pointless, why don't you look up some videos of castle nuts coming loose in the middle of firing and tell me it's pointless. I can see you don't know very much about ARs by your lack of knowledge on them, so I'll just say learn something about your weapons and things will go a lot better for your health and the people around you. Don't be an idiot, knowledge is power.
No problem,bud. Most people in this case would have went "you know, nsz.. you're right, I should have watched the short, informative video; that in fact covered my idiotic and nonetheless, pointless comment/ question".... or something like that....BUT "Pvt. Leonard 'Gomer Pyle' Lawrence".....not so much. He must have some frontal lobe damage from the bike helmet he had to wear at school.
Just bought a stock Colt LE6920. I am trying to remove the castle nut, but my question before I do is: is my rifle or any AR staked from the manufacturer? Can I just remove the castle nut with the wrench and mallet?
AR-15 is not mill speck The Mil-spec Quandary. This one tends to be a bit of a sensitive subject among AR aficionadaos, after all, the AR-15 is “America's rifle.” Unless you obtain a select fire M4 or M16 manufactured by either Colt or FNH, your rifle will not be built 100% per military specifications. loadoutroom.com/thearmsguide/ar-15-isnt-mil-spec-thats-ok/
Actually, according to their website, The name VLTOR originates from the Latin word ultor and means “Avenger”. Latin pronunciation is uhl’tawr. Current pronunciation is vōl-tȯr.
I don't stake like this anymore. Just take a sharp punch and punch next to it creating a bulge. You don't have to transfer material into the hole. Looks better, and is easier to remove .
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
^^^^ strong words from a feeble little man. oh no's please dont attack my username.... LULZ. life is gonna be hard for me? You're the one asking questions that have already been answered. Have a seat, you seem tired.
In my 30+ years of shooting AR's I have NEVER seen a castle nut that needed to be "peened" staked or otherwise done like this. Maybe I'm just lucky or something but this kind of stuff is just a solution searching for a problem.
If you shoot hundreds of rounds monthly staking the castle nut makes sense. If you don't shoot that much add a drop of Loctite blue, torque to specs and you're good.
I would not recommend lock-tite at all. I had a customer bring me a rifle that had lock-tite applied to the castle nut, it was a hell of a fight to get it broke loose and when it was all said and done, it actually damaged the threads on the receiver tube from the tab on the end plate. The receiver tube kept trying to turn with the castle nut as we tried breaking it loose
Heads up unless you got a heat gun I would not the loctite the castle nut.You'll end up needing a new tube, end plate and possibly a castle nut. I tried to remove my castle nut that was installed with blue loctite and by the time it budged the buffer tube thread was gouged underneath. Because it was so bonded on that it turned with the castle nut and overode the end plate area that interfaces with under the tube! A heat gun helps loosen up the loctite before you remove. A mistake I learned the hard way. Hand tightened with a armorer wrench is good enough as snug as you can get without stripping castle nut . And if your keen on using blue loctite a tiny bit goes a long way literally 3-4 small drops where the castle nut is gonna be on the tube your welcome 👍🏼.
I have a nice trench and took my time to remove the staking. Even with the right tools it's still a much more difficult task than this video makes it out to be. That's all I'm saying.
I hope you didn't hurt yourself coming up with that failure burn. Stop posting all over Nates thread, he doesn't care, and I don't care. Just go back to your bridge, because obvious troll is obvious...
Omg, really castle nut comes loose and the weapon becomes useless? So the entire butt stock assembly moving and spinning around and around isn't enough of a hint of a loose castle nut..
You can take a flat punch and push some of the metal of the end plate back away from the Castle nut notches. And i try to get a new end plate to make it look good. Not all buggered up.
You are very welcome. I didn't think that 3 minutes was very long. I guess some people don't have the patience for even a 3 minute video, but then take 4 minutes to leave comments with a poor attitude. Thanks for having my back :-)
Two minutes of intro just to tell me to unscrew it...
You took the words right put of my mouth.
Bro I was thinking the same shit after all he did was just unscrew it
Fr, I saw your comment before the video started
I miss the dislike option
Humm, unscrew the buffer tube (not shown in the video) and ......
Whang!!! out comes that pin that keeps the buffer spring in place with its little spring, and about 90 miles an hour, apparently headed for space. After a half hour search I found both parts.
Moral: When unscrewing the buffer tube, hold on to that little black pin.
It's especially fun when that little black pin flies into the 1970's era black shag carpet!
Critical bit of information
I cannot begin to list all of the vids you have done that have helped me with specific issues. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
Thank you, sir! By the way, it was great to meet you at SHOT :)
Same here!
word of warning: If you camp down on the receiver, when you unscrew the castle nut and the castle nut is very tight, you could very possibly STRIP the buffer tube. This happened to me!
Here's how it could be striped: IF the force required to unscrew the castle nut is HIGHER than the force required to strip the indentation on the bottom of the buffer tube WITH the retaining plate, then the little notch on the retaining plate will ABSOLUTELY rip out from the that little indentation on the buffer tube.
To avoid this, take the upper completely off and clamp down on the butt stock.
You have been warned!
Doing mine tonight and was wondering about this, thanks for the assurance
I fucked my buffer tube up because my new ar15 was staked, I didn't know, and assumed I could just unscrew it. Lucky I got it off and already had a new buffer tube to put on
Thank you. I worried about this as my AR has a staked castle nut and I'd like to put on a sling mount.
Haha, yes indeed they are, but it looks like some of my subs took care of them. As always, thank you for watching.
2 stakes are actually per mil-spec. With a Magpul ASAP, one can only stake once because of the shape.
I was able to get 2 on mine guess i was lucky as hell lol
Watching your videos have given me the confidence to dive in headfirst and do the installs myself! Keep up the excellent vids
Awesome! Just remember to have fun :)
Usually that works, but one time I had to use a pin punch to push the material back in the other way because it was just stuck that bad.
I do not see why you would not be able to re-stake and use the same one. Because of my OCD, it would bother me too much to reuse the old one so I got a new one.
I've taken them off it wasn't to bad.I had a commercial tube staked on and changed it to a mill spec .
This comment shows that you did not watch the video. I explain all of that in the video. Check it out and then get back to me. Thanks for watching!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
So basically. Staking a castle nut keeps the gun from coming apart on its own, but it can still be removed by the user for maintenance reasons
How many AR15s have you heard about flying apart because the castle nut wasn't staked?
+FRIGGIN' BROBOCOP ...absolutely zero, I've built a few...tight will suffice just fine...no loctite or staking needed....anti walk pins are a must though...
Thank you for the very detailed video, you made it a simple task. Along with your staking video, it is now done correctly. Just how it should be.
Burgh 52 You are very welcome!
I am glad you found it helpful but I feel bad that you are in an anti-gun state...
Try that on a DPMS lower and destroy your buffer tube and castle nut.... There are companies that stake in castle nuts so deep that it is close to impossible to get them off properly w/o hurting parts on the weapon.
It is indeed a Spike's Tactical, but it has already been reserved for MrAK47Master if I decide to sell it.
Most solid as fu** factory stake jobs aren't going to come off without that wrench either stripping/slipping off the grooves or bending the wrench for most of these individuals. And if that happens they're going to gouge up their buffer tube, or worse...
Either dremel it down or use a drill bit to grind some of the stake out of the castle nut groove. Then just replace the castle nut and end plate after. They're cheap parts to replace.. . No point in risking damage to the rest of the rifle.
2S1L3NT, that was exactly the information I was looking for- I just needed to validate my intent to drill out some of that material. Thank you!
2S1L3NT j
LWRC has no staking on the castle nut.
Not too keen on just wrenching it, especially when more than one position is staked. Using a small SHARP chisel with the flat side towards the receiver you can CAREFULLY cut away most of the stake without damaging the surrounding parts. Then using a wrench for that final bit. TRY IT, and if you find it works for you too, might consider redoing this video.
I twisted my buffer tube now my pa15 won’t shoot know what’s wrong?
You say you are picky but will reuse the castle nut and plate? Spend the $10 and do the job right.
Great video dude! Okay, but then is that buffer plate useless after that? In other words, is it true that after you stake an end plate it is only good for that one use and no more builds or applications? Thanks!
It depends on where it lines up with the castle nut. If it snugs down in a different spot you will bee able to reuse it and still stake the nut. If it lines up in the original spor, it needs to be replaced. Hope that helps.
8years later and still helped me out thank you
@@mherrera619 lol
You may be surprised how easy it is to do a lot of the stuff that gunsmiths get paid to do. Make sure and check out my other videos as well. I show you exactly how to do a lot of things yourself. Thank you for watching!
There were some other people that mentioned that on arfcom. For learning purposes, can you tell me what went wrong and how you stripped the buffer tube?
Good video about how to loosen the castle nut but what else I would like to see is how to properly hold your firearm while you are wrenching on it.
What to do, what not to do,,,,
I have an AR15/.45 that takes Glock 21 mags and I havn't been able to find anything on UA-cam a bout this kind of set-up
I hear you about the OCD thing. Weird things fire me up like that.
I would not recommend trying it without a vise...
My Colt is staked 3 times from the factory (3 notches).... have you run into that? And do you use the same method... or is there another way to address multiple stakes?
did you figure out how to remove the castle nut on your Colt? Mine is staked in 4 places and it looks like they had used a press machine to do it, it definitely wasn't done with a punch and a hammer. I was wondering if you found out any tricks or information to help? Thanks
+Dennison Small My Colt was only staked in 2 places and this with a mag well vice block got it off.
I know this was posted years ago, but look into PWS' ratchet lock caatle nut and end plate. Truly innovative engineering.
I'd like to add one of those to my hobby tool box for future builds . thanks for info
Did you skip the part where you did something to the stake? It looked like some damage was done to it. Or can I just use wrench pressure and the stack will break?
@APG95 don't be a silly goose, he's blowing Sam at the moment. We all know that.
I got to bring it up an poke some fun being a few videos you mentioned keeping it mil-spec. But your rail isn't, your trigger isn't, your pistol grip isn't, your bolt an carrier isn't. Lol she's a pretty sweet safe queen but slightly mil-spec really if any besides a couple staked things. Great videos. Just couldn't help but to point that out
Just out of curiosity... How do you RE stake the nut once it has that little dent there? Awesome video...wish I had known about the castle nut b4 my DPMS came unraveled. I carried the M16A2 in the Army but it was full stock so I wasn't even aware of the possibility of misfeeding through castle nut backing...oh well..
Hanomag Shadowfeet I restake it on another notch or just use a new castle nut.
nsz85 using a new castle nut doesn't take the dent out of the end plate though. Has that ever been an issue?
I’ve watched all your vids. You are one of if not the most knowledgeable guy on UA-cam with ARs. I’ve built over 75 of them and still look to you for info. Thanks for all these vids man. Great job
Any tips if the hand pressure and hammer doesn’t work? I have a Delton 316H and can’t get the castle nut off to save my life.
Thanks for the help. Im new to ARs but not in shooting. I saw my PSA lower has been staked and thought it was going to be a big deal.
If anybody is wondering im replacing the stock tube to a anti-tilt tube and a H3 buffer system for my Wolf A1 upper. Its over gassed and rips the brimming right off the shells.
How did you clamp your lower on the vise. Did you use a jig or something?
I use a small Dremel tool with the thin grinding disk. As part of my extensive tool collection. LOL. It works really nice and it's a clean look. It also makes re staking a little easier and has a clean look for the next time. 🐢🇺🇸👍
THANK YOU I almost forgot I have a dremel with a very thin grinding disk that would work perfect I didn't even think of it.
I purposefully decided NOT to stake my castle nut simply because I want to be able to easily change my stock in the future. Tightened to 40 lbs and a little loctite makes me sleep well at night.
Thanks! You are welcome and thank you for watching!
Much appreciated the video! Thank you sir.
How do you stake it again after removal? Won’t there be no metal left to stake?
I would say the reason it busted free easily for him was because the staked material from the end plate was so brittle due to how much material was shaped into the notch that some simple elbow grease was gonna be enough to break it free. Either the end plate or the threads on the buffer tube or castle nut will give up.
Most impressive part is the detent spring didn’t fly across the room
I got so many laughs out of these comments. People are so entertaining.
Man you talk way too much
I just put the wrench on the castle nut and started to turn and the buffer tube and the nut turned together. So the key in the plate ended up striping the keyway grove on the buffer tube. I have no idea how it happened but it was a very costly mistake. I don't know why the mil-spec key and keyway are much smaller than a commercial one...you would think it would be better having a larger key on the plat and a larger keyway on the tube.
TLDR: Loosen the nut, and it will unstake it automatically via hand pressure
There saved you from watching a 3 minute video for that
I just watched an instructional video on turning a nut because that was somehow needed?
+S Papi Thanks for watching!
What type of vise block you using to keep the lower static?
And to think, I was going to pay the local gunsmith $25 to unstake my BCM lowers castle nut. Only thing I gotta do is get me one of those nifty wrenches and put some elbow grease into it.
Well mine isn't even staked, their castle nut just sucks ass and wears out around the wrench until it can't grip it anymore. Piece of shit part
Agreed.
Can you re-stake it ?
If you reuse your castle but and the original stakes don’t line up is there any harm in staking a completely new spot?
So you remove staked parts by ignoring the fact that they are staked? Impressive.
Nice!
So once you remove it, can you reuse the staked piece ? Or you have to use a new one and restake it?
i can’t unscrew it can someone help i trying to get a sling for there but i try and try and cant get it
No kidding :P
but lets be honest... that stake job was pretty poor
+Richard Busby A poor stake job is better than no stake job.
nsz85 if you say so
+Richard It's only there to keep the castle nut from loosening, so yes it was a sufficient staking. It being torqued to 40lbs of torque and then staked like, it wasn't coming off.
KingLT82 but lets be honest it is pointless... Not to mention poor. Who double stakes their castle nut? .....u know, unless ur drunk af
Richard
Any company who properly stakes their rifles double stakes them, some triple stake them. Also no it is not pointless, why don't you look up some videos of castle nuts coming loose in the middle of firing and tell me it's pointless. I can see you don't know very much about ARs by your lack of knowledge on them, so I'll just say learn something about your weapons and things will go a lot better for your health and the people around you. Don't be an idiot, knowledge is power.
I mean at least how i steak mine I would need to prep it with a hacksaw just at the edge of the backplate and the castle nut before I let loose in it
No problem,bud. Most people in this case would have went "you know, nsz.. you're right, I should have watched the short, informative video; that in fact covered my idiotic and nonetheless, pointless comment/ question".... or something like that....BUT "Pvt. Leonard 'Gomer Pyle' Lawrence".....not so much. He must have some frontal lobe damage from the bike helmet he had to wear at school.
Thank you, sir!
Just bought a stock Colt LE6920. I am trying to remove the castle nut, but my question before I do is: is my rifle or any AR staked from the manufacturer? Can I just remove the castle nut with the wrench and mallet?
AR-15 is not mill speck
The Mil-spec Quandary. This one tends to be a bit of a sensitive subject among AR aficionadaos, after all, the AR-15 is “America's rifle.” Unless you obtain a select fire M4 or M16 manufactured by either Colt or FNH, your rifle will not be built 100% per military specifications. loadoutroom.com/thearmsguide/ar-15-isnt-mil-spec-thats-ok/
Will removing a staked castle nut damage the buffer tube?
it's pronounced "ULTOR". they use the old roman way to print a U.
Actually, according to their website, The name VLTOR originates from the Latin word ultor and means “Avenger”.
Latin pronunciation is uhl’tawr. Current pronunciation is vōl-tȯr.
I don't stake like this anymore. Just take a sharp punch and punch next to it creating a bulge. You don't have to transfer material into the hole. Looks better, and is easier to remove .
Thank you, trees!
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
at this point just build another lower, can never have too many
^^^^ strong words from a feeble little man. oh no's please dont attack my username.... LULZ. life is gonna be hard for me? You're the one asking questions that have already been answered.
Have a seat, you seem tired.
Quick and to the point. Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for doing a quick, informative video.
In my 30+ years of shooting AR's I have NEVER seen a castle nut that needed to be "peened" staked or otherwise done like this. Maybe I'm just lucky or something but this kind of stuff is just a solution searching for a problem.
If you shoot hundreds of rounds monthly staking the castle nut makes sense. If you don't shoot that much add a drop of Loctite blue, torque to specs and you're good.
nice work brother. God Bless.
Ive broken 2 wrenchs trying this lol
Yeah, My BCM wouldn't nudge, even with a hammer to the wrench. Had to dremel it. Installed a PWS buffer, no stake required as it "ratchets" on.
My AR's are for recreational, hunting and training purposes. Not for combat duty. When training, I bring my tools with me.
Great information I learned something,Great video as well.
Great video!! I learned a lot! Thanks!
How do you remove the BUFFER?????????????????????????? Dude.
You are the best gun builder in the world. I mean that. I have built two riles following along. THANK YOU!
I would not recommend lock-tite at all. I had a customer bring me a rifle that had lock-tite applied to the castle nut, it was a hell of a fight to get it broke loose and when it was all said and done, it actually damaged the threads on the receiver tube from the tab on the end plate. The receiver tube kept trying to turn with the castle nut as we tried breaking it loose
Heads up unless you got a heat gun I would not the loctite the castle nut.You'll end up needing a new tube, end plate and possibly a castle nut.
I tried to remove my castle nut that was installed with blue loctite and by the time it budged the buffer tube thread was gouged underneath.
Because it was so bonded on that it turned with the castle nut and overode the end plate area that interfaces with under the tube!
A heat gun helps loosen up the loctite before you remove. A mistake I learned the hard way.
Hand tightened with a armorer wrench is good enough as snug as you can get without stripping castle nut .
And if your keen on using blue loctite a tiny bit goes a long way literally 3-4 small drops where the castle nut is gonna be on the tube your welcome 👍🏼.
Yeah that didn’t look to be tightened to 40ft/lbs
Try that on a Colt....
+Ryan Osborne If I purchased a Colt I wouldn't need to.
You would if you wanted to change the factory end plate to a new one with a sling/qd attachment.
Ryan Osborne ....I have done this with numerous Colts and BCMs (also stakes theirs in two places). If you have a quality wrench, it is no big deal.
I have a nice trench and took my time to remove the staking. Even with the right tools it's still a much more difficult task than this video makes it out to be. That's all I'm saying.
horseslamcock I think you missed his point.....
I hope you didn't hurt yourself coming up with that failure burn.
Stop posting all over Nates thread, he doesn't care, and I don't care.
Just go back to your bridge, because obvious troll is obvious...
Omg, really castle nut comes loose and the weapon becomes useless?
So the entire butt stock assembly moving and spinning around and around isn't enough of a hint of a loose castle nut..
May i ask what castle wrench that is? Trying to get one that isnt to expensive but actually works haha
You can take a flat punch and push some of the metal of the end plate back away from the Castle nut notches. And i try to get a new end plate to make it look good. Not all buggered up.
Are there different size castle nute on Ar-15's? or ar-10's? i ordered a castle nut wrench,i got it today and it is too small to fit my castle nut?
Nope. Tried an LE6920. Totally impossible to remove even with a mallet.
Is that old grey tube a Spikes? If so how much you want for it? Thanks
I think they make a fixture to hold the lower in a vice wo marring it up
After I remove my staked castle nut and change my buffer tube for a new stock can I re-stake the old end plate and castle nut?? Thanks
Would the gun still shoot without it on the back ?
Can you then re-use / re-stake that same end plate? Thanks!