Surf Ireland - Co. Clare - First time trying(and failing) proper Irish slab
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Really enjoyed this sesh as it challenged me beyond anything I ever tried before. The power, speed and unforgiveness was unbelievable. And this was on a small day cant imagine surfing this on a proper 6plus ft swell with 14 secs period.
40 is just a number , keep at it mate
Great video mate appreciate it, looks like you did decent. This is going to be a long answer that i'm hoping will be helpful as it's been hard learnt for me.
I've just spent the last year learning to ride more slabby waves, out at hossegor and barrelling reefs at home. Not masses ahead of you. I would say my big takeaway from the year is learning what OMBE means by the oreo method and learning to apply it on steep waves.
From the looks of it you've tried to paddle into this like it was a slopey less powerful wave that you can use brute paddle power to catch.
The turning point for me was when I clocked that with a proper curved shortboard and most barrelling waves it is physically impossible to paddle quickly enough to match the speed. Also the lip is travelling faster than the bottom of the wave. So the aim is how do you get the wave to pick you up whilst further down the face with less paddling.
And the answer to that has changed my surfing. Actually getting a little further in, closer to the steep part of the wave whilst arching your back hard. Spend more time watching the wave coming at you and nailing positioning and less time worrying about maximising paddle speed. This arched back with weight leaning backwards in the steeper part of the wave (without sinking tail too much) lets the wave pick you up quickly, gives you a more stable platform on the steeper section and let's you pop quicker, whilst being at a slower lower section of the wave face.
Nose down to the board paddlng hard from deeper only leads to you getting stuck up in the lip and projected forward, makes all your takeoffs late, and really difficult.
I've been surfing like 8 years, I think for couple of years in looks like you're doing great.
Wow thanks so much for your reply really appreciate it. I tried oreo method a couple of times unsuccessfully I feel like I either sink the tail to much like you said or to little so the wave just rolls over me. Would the oreo work in more sloppy waves for practice or is the more steep waves only time it will work?
Your absolutely right about trying to force my self in to waves it didn't work and when i went a bit deeper it just flipped me before even popping up.
Its funny when I surf mellow fun surf session I tend to arch my back more since I feel like it will give me a bit more "slide" into waves while my thinking with bigger waves was to arch less for some reason. Will definitely keep your advice in mind on next sessions.
I been surfing for 5 years but first 3 only a couple of times a year for fun but last two or two and a half been really trying to improve and learn.
I always loved a challenge and this sport has so many levels.
@@mrbeansys I would say you can use it anywhere there's a decent peak. Kale Brock had a decent video about how and when to use paddling vs oreo can't remember which one though.
Ultimately leaning back and taking off in the pocket lets you take off lower on the face, and in more critical sections. Using the steep angle of the face to allow a quick pop up.
Paddling hard lets you cut the angle at which you can pop up so it can happen a bit earlier, but in certain waves the shoulders too soft and peaks too quick for that to work.
The change for me has been knowing if I can get my positioning right I can take off late and with less paddling. That has given me loads more confidence to spend longer watching the wave approaching (over my shoulder whilst paddling laterally to position or over my shoulder whilst diagonal), and then I can judge how fat or steep my takeoff is going to be and decide whether to dig in with my paddling, or prepare for a few sharp strokes and a quick take off. Either way, knowing exactly what the wave is doing has allowed me to tailor my paddle in more, and the jump forward happened really quick when i started doing that.
Yer mate that's no time at all, you're doing great. So ridiculously difficult as a sport, but man it's like the better you get the deeper you fall in love with it right.
Thanks for your content really enjoying it!
@@MindSurf248 thanks went out today and forced myself to practice it. Its work in progress all I am going to say🙈
Glad to hear your enjoying the vids
Takes a certain degree of fitness and core strength though for this type of surfing , but yes your spot on , gotta be deepr for those faster steeper take offs ,
Big respect man ! tThat is a pretty hardcore wave , you did great for your first time there. Keep it up 👍
Thanks bud it I tried a few advanced spots in Sligo, Clare and Donegal but nothing compares to this. If I can ask you to edit the comment and remove the name please as I dont want to get shit in the water for comments naming the spots. I had a couple of chats with locals at different spots and all the time get told they would appreciate it if I would not name spots.
@@mrbeansys haha no worries , pretty sure that’s a well known spot and in all the stormrider guides but no hassle. I surfed it double overhead , glassy one day. So heavy but epic. Leash snapped and board ended up on the island wedged between two rocks. I hit the bottom and hung on to the long seaweed to stop being dragged lol
@@SurferKroky thanks! Its more in my head as sign of respect then keeping it a secret if you get me. That sounds terrifying and crazy fun at the same time😂. Hopefully now that we started to get some swells I'll get another crack at it.
You did good, have fun and explore
Always good to try new spots, enjoy your sessions.
That's some good waves. As I am a beach break surfer still I can see you have got to reef breaks which we all know is a big step up. Keep going out and when all the dots aline you will be able to catch anything it was the same for sand bar waves. Surfing is the most rewarding yet frustrating sport I have tried 😂
Agreed it's all a learning process I like challenging myself with new breaks keeps things interesting 🤙🤙
@@mrbeansys keep posting I have surfed tullan rosnowlagh and inside left on bundoran peak. Where are you based? We are moving to kerry I'm looking forward to seeing what that has to offer.
@@padraic5712 I am in Navan Co.Meath but as you can see travel around a lot. I've been to Kerry a few times only surfed Brandon bay and Inch beach never been lucky with reef working. There must be some amazing hidden breaks in Kerry.
Great Vid, Keep it up, when u paddle you paddle hard no matter what , and depending on type wave , may have to angle your take off ..but u did hardest part and thats paddle out...Good stuff
Well done mate, your videos are brilliant
Thanks Matt we need to do a sesh together it's been too long bud
@@mrbeansys definitely, I'm so rusty. Nice session at Rossnowlagh today, not the best waves but at least a bit of size and power after weeks of tiny weak waves
Bro this spot is my dream not even thinking about it atm, good job! How do you mount your gopro? It looks good.
Thanks bud I use GoPro mouth mount. It takes a few times out to get used to it but after a while you don't even know it's there🤙
I shhhhu you’re not scare about your teeth or loosing a gopro? 🤯
@@mattsekowski Nah bud been at it for a year now never felt a wipeout hit my teeth or droped a gopro. Did worry about it at the start but so far so good. I am sure ill get a whack at some point tho:)
Incredibile peack ! Yeww
dont be to hard on yourself ,every time your out there your gaining more expierience ,, on and on...
I am kinda wired like that I am hard on my self and then push my self to do better. Its funny I was mad about how I did this sesh since i believe I could do better but also really happy that I am at the level to even get out on such a crazy break.
I was out that day saw u there
Hopefully you got a few unlike me😂
@@mrbeansys yea I was out with all the other groms it wasn’t the biggest day there but the waves certainly had some punch
@@mrbeansys you actually did well tho for your first day tbh
@@sylvanmatthia387 I had mixed feelings about it was kinda angry because I felt I could have done so much better but also really looking forward to next time out as I know the spot a little now. Its been so flat lately can't wait to get back there 😞
@@mrbeansys yea sick
🤙
Stop shoulder hopping. It's a natural reaction to being scared but you need to take off deeper, closer to the peak. It's steeper and faster where you were trying to take off which makes it harder.
Yea that's how I felt after the session. I was just overly cautious as it was my first time on such a fast breaking spot. Next time...
Is that Sligo or Donegal
Its County Clare bud.
Commitment the big issue here