4:33 If you attack that section with a bit more aggression/commitment on the approach and lighter feet when you hit it, you'll make that section. Then you won't get caught inside like that.
Agree a mixture of not yet back to my normal phisical condition and it was a tough sesh as on high tide and and big swell on this spot you need to paddle constantly but most off all first big swell I got out in a good while had me being a bit to cautions and on this waves if you hesitate a bit you pay the price in this conditions. .
Left was lovely last light yesterday and first light today. But boy I suck on my backside.... Got a little better with the 2nd session today but fuck me I need to work on my backside popup...
4:33 If you attack that section with a bit more aggression/commitment on the approach and lighter feet when you hit it, you'll make that section. Then you won't get caught inside like that.
Agree a mixture of not yet back to my normal phisical condition and it was a tough sesh as on high tide and and big swell on this spot you need to paddle constantly but most off all first big swell I got out in a good while had me being a bit to cautions and on this waves if you hesitate a bit you pay the price in this conditions. .
Nice
Was a nice 3ft at easkey fun surf
Left was lovely last light yesterday and first light today. But boy I suck on my backside.... Got a little better with the 2nd session today but fuck me I need to work on my backside popup...