Are we done traveling already?
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- We've had some issues. In this video we travel from Virginia back to Lewisville Kentucky as we attempt to diagnose a scary oil pressure issue. We take the truck to the shop only to find out they can't figure out the issue. Forcing us to drive hundreds of miles off track to seek the help of friends. So come with us as we battle oil pressure issues and maybe stop by a few distilleries along the way.
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This is the hood liner that I used to silence that turbo whine in the cab.
➭ Dynamat Hood Liner = amzn.to/4fKDQfs
Secondary Camera, it’s supposed to be my primary but the iPhone is just to easy to use.
➭ Sony ZV1 = amzn.to/4hI1o6B
If the audio sounds good then I’m probably using these microphones.
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If the audio sounds like I’m in a wind tunnel, it’s probably the mic on the iPhone.
Hey Chad, even when you build is done, I still am making critical notes (for my build) from your cast. Happy to see you keep on tracking safely.
Put in a manual gauge 4 now
Happy travels
I see you guys met my friend "Sum Ting Wong". In all seriousness though the cat engine would eat itself in about 15 seconds if it had 0 oil pressure. This is the main reason I replaced all of my guages with isspro equivalents because one by one those old crusty military gauges start failing. I am glad to see you did not have to replace your oil pump....yet..... :D
Spruce Pine is my happy place. Welcome to the area! Let me know if you need any tips.
When you get to Acadia check out Thunder Hole if you get the chance. Best time to show up is 1-2 hours before high tide. Its name is appropriate.
Added it to the list
Hey Chad, fellow expedition truck owner here. Your sending unit might have a pressure snubber on it, which can get clogged after normal use causing low pressure readings. Just a suggestion, good luck man 👍
I replaced several sending units that had failed, the vibration of the engine destroys the sending unit. When I worked on buses, the sending units were attached by stainless braided hose and attached to the frame with fitting that had mounting ears on it.
I think I have one laying around here, if I can find it I will post a picture.
Nope, I put it somewhere safe, now I don't remember where that is.
As per the prophecy, it is in a safe place. :)
@@BrokeOverLand you know how I am, old and forgetful.
I do not have a wiring diagram, so shooting from the hip here. Did you ohm out the sense wire. If it’s loosing resistance when it gets hot might cause your problem. Perhaps run a jumper and bye pass it to test.
Those were big pours on the bourbon trail, could help but notice the smiles getting bigger as the video played.
I’ll double check the ohm’s both cold and hot. And yes, thankfully there is a bus service between the distilleries. Probably should have said something about that in the video. :)
@@BrokeOverLand I just assumed Sky drove home
Adept Ape did have also a CAT where the oil pickup was loose.... resulting in mechanical gauge showing ok... but gauge on dash.. nope
Actually on Josh’s video it was showing no pressure on the manual gauge as well. It was getting just enough oil for the HEUI pump to build enough pressure to fire the injectors. This was what made me nervous enough to bring it into a shop.
Well you didn’t have an oil idiot light and that comes from a separate sensor, so sounded like the gauge ckt from the beginning. resistance change on the sender with oil pressure change is good, but in the end, the gauge is current driven, so I suspect as you did, a bad connection somewhere between gauge and sender. You can confirm this by stringing out a single wire from gauge to sender and see if that does indeed display correct pressure.
you have analog gauges, so you have an analog oil p and engine temp sender down on the engine. There is a connector at the gauge, an intermediary connector P191(pin5) and a P32 connection which I suspect is at the sender on the drivers side of the engine. Both the oilP and temp signals pass thru P191, as does some other stuff like the power for your primary fuel filter bowl heater. It is basically a quick disconnect point if you were swapping out an engine, and I suspect that it is located somewhere along the drivers frame rail. The 3116 has one as well, and I have never located mine:) if you follow the wire from the two senders and the filter bowl heater, you should be able to find it… Its hot and sticky down there, maybe something is chafing… Good luck!
Do you check de nylon hose for obstruction?
where did you put the manual oil pressure gauge and how did you plumb/wire it in.
Are any fail safes like limp mode suppose to kick on if oil engine oil pressure goes low on engine.... if so and they are not kicking on. ... then maybe knowing that will help you diagnose.
Happy that mechanical pressure says your good.
PS- check / clean cab ground behind grill.. (easier to just replace it with a different one in a more accessible location.. from what I hear
I’ll double check the ground. For the manual oil pressure gauge, they added a t fitting where the oil pressure sending unit plugs in and capped it when they were done. As for the pump mode. With the 3126 the injectors are fired via high pressure oil. So if there is no oil the engine doesn’t get fuel. Supposedly…
@@BrokeOverLand Good Afternoon Chad......I think I would definitely do an inexpensive "manual" gauge / Performance braided line / right off that "T" they left you, and plumb it up into the cab as a nice Temporary setup for a piece of mind. Just secure it at the Dash in a temp fashion. I would also first try disconnecting that existing dash gauge from the sense wire, and just run a nice 14g wire down to the engine sensor they just installed, and bi-pass the factory harness complete. I have come across some "Dry Wire" on our 2003 M1079A1 actually. Including even the J1939 Network Cable. I plan to completely run a fresh J1939 Cable soon as well. (Include disconnecting the gauge from the ground wire too, up at the dash, if there is one, and giving it it's own ground wire nice and clean too). Even right to a Ground screw, like the one on the CTIS controller / mount bolt. We have been following you "for a while" actually. You will be happy to know you may have caused our own version of "Broke Overland" here.....lol......fun though....we are moving right along with the project. I trouble shoot "Sport Fishing Yacht Systems" for a living actually. Be glad to help out. Good Luck.
Have you cleaned the main ground strap to the cab? It runs from under the passenger cab pivot to the passenger wall of the radiator tunnel behind the grill. That ground is always NASTY, poorly designed, and universally ignored. You can't access the frame side of the strap easily. Better to just replace the strap entirely and relocate the frame side.
Just started that process yesterday. The can side of the strap is. Full of mostly paint. Haven’t even gotten to the frame side yet.
@@BrokeOverLand Yup. Had a 2v drop across the cab to frame with my meter on the frame and the cab ground point on the passenger grab handle near the PDP. This was on a ~4 year old A1P2 armored truck at the local National Guard base. Found the one on my 2008 to be REALLY gross also. I have a feeling this is one of the primary causes of the pushbutton light switch failures since the digital switch requires a proper ground - there's even a note that comes with them warning the ground has to be good or they can catch fire. Please do a video on that one as a PSA. You have an audience. I keep preaching but don't have any listeners.
Only fools buy a vehicle like this.