I would consider moving the battery to the right side and the receiver to the left side. The motor is offset to the left and the battery is heavier than the receiver and power button. With the offset motor and battery on the right side you will be much more balanced side to side. it makes a big difference when climbing steep rocks as more weight on one side cause the front to drop to the heavier side. Just a suggestion. Other than that l would CA glue the panhard mount then install the nut and screw as it gets loose and won't ever tighten back up. When you CA glue it in place before bolting it on the panhard mount will be super strong and won't get loose over time. Have fun, it looks cool.
Stainless hardware and lots of ceramic coating/WD-40 is how i keep my trail rig running. Our only "crawling" locations are muddy creeks/rivers. We also fill our axle housing with marine lower unit grease/oil. The very slow leak of fluid keeps the cv shafts and axle bearings smooth. Ive also added a grease zert to my factory 3 gear transmission. I keep it packed full of all purpose grease to help keep the water out
Living where I do in North Carolina I have to do a lot of the same things as you. I need to add a Zert to my Transmission, that is a awesome idea! We do a lot of Trail Running down by Rivers, Creeks and Lakes, a ton of Roots and some very sick, sometimes slimy River Rock and good ole Red Clay Mud 🤣 Definitely gonna barrow your idea about the Grease Fitting, have a awesome day 🤙🏼
Nice! You certainly have some of this figured out! I typically don't get too wet...but made a trip to the beach....the salt water and sand just KILLED this truck.
Great video I wish I would have seen it before I did mine. I really liked the chassis but I took a tumble and landed on the right front wheel and snapped the chassis right at the panhard bar mount so be careful. I’m working on building some stiffeners for the front.
I bought this chassis along with a brass front bumper/servo mount. Then went to jennys rc and bought sport axles, shocks and a 2 speed transmission and built a whole new vehicle from scratch. After some basic tuning tweaks it holds its own against my negative g, my groundfox, my scx10 pro, and my gspeed chassis vehicles
@@RoadsideRC I just pulled mine out and looked at the links since I build it a while ago and couldn't remember. It appears I am using the supplied short rear links making it a 12.3 wheelbase. The driveshafts both had to be reworked to make them fit, and the links in the rear do go to the frame both upper and lower. the geometry seems to work quite well this way as it crawls as good if not better than my much more expensive crawlers. I used stock traxxas shocks with some deez bands to compress them and it sits low and stable.
looks quite a job but seems everything you need is supplied plus your review and build help should help anyone undertaking this job *big like👍Au💯always fully watched👀*
Subbed, I’ve been watching this series and it’s good timing that you’ve started it up again. I’m ordering my sport tonight, I got the hobbywing 2300kv kit for it, do you like your brushless set up now? It’s nice just to get rid of the buzzing noise
Well. Personally? I think you got the old one, right where you want it. Nice Patina on there and well weathered. I would leave it as is. After the body re-do.. :) Nice work brother. lol
I'd keep an eye on that panhard mount. NW Scaler Designs has something similar. My Element chassis from him came with a similar mount and I found myself retightening it after a couple runs. I've now gone to a TGH dual servo mount and a G-Speed G-MP panhard for that chassis and it's ace now. Would the OE skid work with these rails? I wonder if that would have made your links fitting easier. It looks like you lost a bit of triangulation in the rear and the upper/lower lengths are so different causing the pinion swing. You might like that Morlordy CF chassis. Crawler Canyon did a chassis swap with that one and seemed to like it, video id is dUFJWJVuilM, title is Crawler Canyon Quick(re)view: Morlordy CF chassis conversion for TRX-4. I think you lose quite a bit of weight going carbon on a TRX4 because Traxxas C channel rails are BEEF 😂
Agree 100% - this chassis certainly has some pros and cons. I meant to see if the factory center skid would bolt up and FORGOT! Boo. Thanks for the reminder. Agree that it could really make a big difference here. Thanks for the insights!
FYI, the Redcat deal today is about $72 USD off the Gen8 V2 bringing it to 270 USD. Not shabby! I have my eye on a few things, I need a new basher on sale :D
I’m thinking about getting this kit. Question. At around 8:40 the linkages looks like they have a groove in the center of each rod? Also what would you recommend for drive shaft length for front and rear? I’m gonna be using the lcg transmission and for the motor HobbyWing SE 1800kv. I been trying to find a video in the kinda chassis kit I want and I believe I found it. Great video
Glad this was helpful! The linkages and driveshaft lengths you will just need to figure out as you assemble the axles where you want them. I'm not sure my lengths will really work for you.
@@RoadsideRC i didn’t think you setup would work for me. I was just wanting a recommendation of what I should start with I don’t wanna buy one and it be too short out the gate. I’ll just go ahead and start with about 120mm if they are too long I’ll cutem to fit.
You have much more patience than I would. For me no instructions would be a deal breaker. On Amazon they show an Injora Chassis kits for Axial cars also. Is it possible they sent you the wrong chassis?
Hi Michael! I don't think they sent the wrong kit - as the trans bolts right up. I agree that at least minimal instructions would be nice. Maybe my video can help fill that gap some. More to come on this. I wonder if I can make the stock skid work - I think it would help a lot.
whens the update video ?? i wanna get this kit so bad but i wanna see the pro and cons to it moving and crawling . and i have the defender trx4 none sport so i might be crazy for wanting to do it
I did to my Defender...since I really wanted it to crawl better. I LOVE it! There was some trial & error to it, but all in all I'm very happy with how it crawls now. The stock 2 speed servo & Mount work perfectly in it. Using a ProLine Power Wagon 1/2 cab body, since I wanted to ditch alot of weight. Although I did put an RC4WD interior in it, with Harley Quinn driving 😁. It was actually a pretty fun build....before doing this I ordered stainless screws from Aliexpress, originals were getting rusty.
Yeah...don't think so. But, maybe since they didn't provide any instructions. Either way, already designed and printed ones that work better with the body anyway.
I would consider moving the battery to the right side and the receiver to the left side. The motor is offset to the left and the battery is heavier than the receiver and power button. With the offset motor and battery on the right side you will be much more balanced side to side. it makes a big difference when climbing steep rocks as more weight on one side cause the front to drop to the heavier side. Just a suggestion. Other than that l would CA glue the panhard mount then install the nut and screw as it gets loose and won't ever tighten back up. When you CA glue it in place before bolting it on the panhard mount will be super strong and won't get loose over time. Have fun, it looks cool.
Those are two VERY good tips! Thanks!
I have this chassis, love it, and have several videos featuring it. Excellent bang for the buck. You're going to love it.
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for the video. I was hesitant to buy the kit for my sport.
Glad to help!
Stainless hardware and lots of ceramic coating/WD-40 is how i keep my trail rig running. Our only "crawling" locations are muddy creeks/rivers. We also fill our axle housing with marine lower unit grease/oil. The very slow leak of fluid keeps the cv shafts and axle bearings smooth. Ive also added a grease zert to my factory 3 gear transmission. I keep it packed full of all purpose grease to help keep the water out
Living where I do in North Carolina I have to do a lot of the same things as you. I need to add a Zert to my Transmission, that is a awesome idea! We do a lot of Trail Running down by Rivers, Creeks and Lakes, a ton of Roots and some very sick, sometimes slimy River Rock and good ole Red Clay Mud 🤣 Definitely gonna barrow your idea about the Grease Fitting, have a awesome day 🤙🏼
Nice! You certainly have some of this figured out!
I typically don't get too wet...but made a trip to the beach....the salt water and sand just KILLED this truck.
Great video and informative look at this Injora Chassis. I might get one for my Sport.👍🏻
Glad to help!
That is gonna be a Cool Truck whenever you get done with her! Awesome Content. 🤙🏼
Thanks 👍
just ordered for mine after watching the video!
Awesome! Hope you like it.
Thanks for the vid, im considering buying this kit.✌
Glad I could help!
Great video I wish I would have seen it before I did mine. I really liked the chassis but I took a tumble and landed on the right front wheel and snapped the chassis right at the panhard bar mount so be careful. I’m working on building some stiffeners for the front.
Interesting! Thanks for the warning!
I bought this chassis along with a brass front bumper/servo mount. Then went to jennys rc and bought sport axles, shocks and a 2 speed transmission and built a whole new vehicle from scratch. After some basic tuning tweaks it holds its own against my negative g, my groundfox, my scx10 pro, and my gspeed chassis vehicles
Awesome!
My main concern at the moment is the link geometry. How did you do yours vs what I did here?
@@RoadsideRC I just pulled mine out and looked at the links since I build it a while ago and couldn't remember. It appears I am using the supplied short rear links making it a 12.3 wheelbase. The driveshafts both had to be reworked to make them fit, and the links in the rear do go to the frame both upper and lower. the geometry seems to work quite well this way as it crawls as good if not better than my much more expensive crawlers. I used stock traxxas shocks with some deez bands to compress them and it sits low and stable.
@@oldmanjeepingandbiking9621 Thanks for looking and writing back. I really appreciate it!
looks quite a job but seems everything you need is supplied plus your review and build help should help anyone undertaking this job
*big like👍Au💯always fully watched👀*
Thanks Billy!
Subbed, I’ve been watching this series and it’s good timing that you’ve started it up again. I’m ordering my sport tonight, I got the hobbywing 2300kv kit for it, do you like your brushless set up now? It’s nice just to get rid of the buzzing noise
Yes! Brushless is really nice!
Awesome! I just filmed my AMK LCG CHASSIS- Wow great minds do think alike!!😂😅
Ha! It must be! :)
Good price!
Great! The member-preview worked for you!
It needs the rc4wd poison spider diff covers they look awesome
Thanks for the tip!
Well. Personally? I think you got the old one, right where you want it. Nice Patina on there and well weathered. I would leave it as is. After the body re-do.. :) Nice work brother. lol
Thanks!
Unfortunately, the old chassis is mostly rusted together. Doesn't let the suspension work very well anymore.
I'd keep an eye on that panhard mount. NW Scaler Designs has something similar. My Element chassis from him came with a similar mount and I found myself retightening it after a couple runs. I've now gone to a TGH dual servo mount and a G-Speed G-MP panhard for that chassis and it's ace now. Would the OE skid work with these rails? I wonder if that would have made your links fitting easier. It looks like you lost a bit of triangulation in the rear and the upper/lower lengths are so different causing the pinion swing. You might like that Morlordy CF chassis. Crawler Canyon did a chassis swap with that one and seemed to like it, video id is dUFJWJVuilM, title is Crawler Canyon Quick(re)view: Morlordy CF chassis conversion for TRX-4. I think you lose quite a bit of weight going carbon on a TRX4 because Traxxas C channel rails are BEEF 😂
Agree 100% - this chassis certainly has some pros and cons.
I meant to see if the factory center skid would bolt up and FORGOT! Boo. Thanks for the reminder. Agree that it could really make a big difference here.
Thanks for the insights!
FYI, the Redcat deal today is about $72 USD off the Gen8 V2 bringing it to 270 USD. Not shabby! I have my eye on a few things, I need a new basher on sale :D
Agree! That is a GREAT buy on a Gen8. I had planned to do a giveaway with it - but didn't get the videos done in time.
Doh!
Great video. What truck body are you running?
Hi there - it is this body:
ua-cam.com/video/vUg_W9o69ac/v-deo.html
I’m thinking about getting this kit. Question. At around 8:40 the linkages looks like they have a groove in the center of each rod? Also what would you recommend for drive shaft length for front and rear? I’m gonna be using the lcg transmission and for the motor HobbyWing SE 1800kv. I been trying to find a video in the kinda chassis kit I want and I believe I found it. Great video
Glad this was helpful!
The linkages and driveshaft lengths you will just need to figure out as you assemble the axles where you want them. I'm not sure my lengths will really work for you.
@@RoadsideRC i didn’t think you setup would work for me. I was just wanting a recommendation of what I should start with I don’t wanna buy one and it be too short out the gate. I’ll just go ahead and start with about 120mm if they are too long I’ll cutem to fit.
You have much more patience than I would. For me no instructions would be a deal breaker. On Amazon they show an Injora Chassis kits for Axial cars also. Is it possible they sent you the wrong chassis?
Hi Michael!
I don't think they sent the wrong kit - as the trans bolts right up.
I agree that at least minimal instructions would be nice. Maybe my video can help fill that gap some.
More to come on this. I wonder if I can make the stock skid work - I think it would help a lot.
whens the update video ?? i wanna get this kit so bad but i wanna see the pro and cons to it moving and crawling . and i have the defender trx4 none sport so i might be crazy for wanting to do it
In process! Had a hiccup with mounting the new wheels/tires (see the video I released today). Goal is to have the first drive video within a week!
thanks for the reponse i will watch it now
I did to my Defender...since I really wanted it to crawl better. I LOVE it! There was some trial & error to it, but all in all I'm very happy with how it crawls now. The stock 2 speed servo & Mount work perfectly in it. Using a ProLine Power Wagon 1/2 cab body, since I wanted to ditch alot of weight. Although I did put an RC4WD interior in it, with Harley Quinn driving 😁. It was actually a pretty fun build....before doing this I ordered stainless screws from Aliexpress, originals were getting rusty.
Are we gonna see you at horizon fest this weekend Troy??
Unfortunately no. I'll be at NHRA in Bristol, TN!
does this only work for the trx sport ? .theres no place for the diff micro servos to sit
There was a different kit for the standard TRX4.
Wow! Who does your truck bodies buddy?
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/vUg_W9o69ac/v-deo.html
They really are top-notch!
Is this kit compatible with the high trail k10?
I would assume so - just double check the wheelbase.
How is that servo holding up?
It has been great for me.
@@RoadsideRC awesome thank you!
Ah salty water disaster, been there 😅
Yeah, boo.
Was OK the first time, as it immediately got washed off. 2nd time forgot....and that was a mistake.
I have often wondered if a store bought waterproofing spray would help with this.
👍👍😁😁
swap front and rear driveshafts
That might have worked!
The sliders stick on everything
Thanks for the tip - I was thinking I may print some different ones.
The rod ends are very low quality btw
No audio
I just spot-checked the video. Seemed to be fine. Was there a specific time window where it wasn't working?
people by brass parts to make it heavier, why buy a carbon fiber chassis ?
You want weight down low and in the front - everywhere else needs to be as light as possible.
Your body post are upside down
Yeah...don't think so. But, maybe since they didn't provide any instructions.
Either way, already designed and printed ones that work better with the body anyway.