U-lock over top tube. NOOOOOO! A rough twist of the bike and a cheap U-Lock is toast as the top tube gives a lot of leverage. Always lock up the rear wheel to the frame and a post, cable goes around front wheel.
Definitely, you want to put the lock with the key hole facing downward if possible, and put it in a position where you make someone with an angle grinder have to bend down awkwardly to cut it.
@@Shifter_Cycling also those foldable locks are notoriously bad. They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup. Same with cable locks, they might be really convenient, but they're also really convenient for thieves, who can cut them open like scissors cutting paper.
Many bike racks can be quickly and quietly cut with a sawz, and the aluminum bike racks take two seconds to do two cuts, so a top tube lock means the bike can be ridden away with the lock still locked. My recommendation is to use a chain through the rear wheel only, as tight as possible off the ground. A chain going around a frame and a wheel is vulnerable to an angle grinder as the chain can be placed firmly against the frame. That's really hard to do with a chain only through the wheel. Basically, most bikes are stolen when it rains. Streets empty, noise doesn't carry far at all, police won't get out of their cars, and bike patrols will stay under cover. Folding and u-locks are all light security, because both are highly vulnerable to small bolt cutters or hydraulic wedges. Even a Kryptonite 14mm ulock is easily cut within seconds with an angle grinder if you can put a foot on it. And if it's a heavy rain you won't even be able to hear that angle grinder. I personally use a 12mm noose chain, a 7 mm regular chain, and a folding lock, through frame, rear wheel, and frame and rear wheel.
@@ARandomBoat _"They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup"_ -- it would depend on the exact design, but the Abus versions use disc detainer locks, which very few people have the tools, never mind the expertise to pick. I'd say they are the opposite of "super easy to pick". They _are_ vulnerable to an attack at each hinge point; a bolt splitter will be able to eventually pull apart the joint in most cases. But for either picking or breaking, a thief would have to come prepared for that specific type of lock. For now, they are uncommon enough that there's some "security by obscurity", such that a thief looking for a quick score (and aren't they all?) is going to skip past a bike locked with a folding lock and go on to an easier target.
I've watched a lot of these videos from others. I have to say that rather than wasting a huge amount of time showing us every model of every manufacturer and giving us a history of bike locking. You did what you promised after a brief and to the point introduction. That puts you head and shoulders above others. Good work.
Regarding your comment at 5:00 about people stealing wheels, when I lived in NYC I had a series of photos about bikes in various stages of “decomposition” due to theft. Some bikes you could create a time lapse of their regression. It would start with the seat, and you could imagine the bike owner telling themselves “well, I can’t bike home without a seat. I’ll go to Modell’s tomorrow and pick up a seat, and then take the bike home.” But then the next day they would arrive and now the bike was missing the seat AND the rear wheel (because the front one was locked with the rest of the bike). And so on
When you lock up with a U-Lock you should try and put it through the rear wheel as well as the frame, this will leave much less space for thieves to get leverage or fit a jack inside. Also a good tip is to have 2 types of locks. Even if the 2nd lock isn't as strong as the primary lock, it's a good deterrent if it would require a different tool to pick and/or break open to the other, which the theif might not have. For manual bikes I would reccomend a U-Lock as a primary lock with a folding or armoured cable as a secondary deterrent because it doesn't weigh much. Personally I have an E-bike so I don't mind carrying a heavy long noose chain around in a pannier as it gives me much more flexibility for locking up, especially when couriering to places that might not have a bike stand; a U-Lock can't go round many types of lamposts and railings.
That depends on the size of the U-lock. I've got a mini, and it won't fit around frame, tube, and bicycle rack / fencepost / whatever else, all at the same time. Then again, I've got a cheap-assed bike that isn't worth stealing by anyone with tools, so merely deterring _casual_ theft is more than sufficient. :)
I use a mini u-lock and only secure the rear wheel inside the triangle formed by the seat stays, seat tube, and chain stay to a bike rack. That secures the frame even though the u lock isn’t around the frame because there is no way to take the bike frame with the wheel locked inside unless you slice through the entire wheel(probably the second most expensive thing on the bike and rendering the bike inoperable). You can then use a cable connected to the u-lock to secure the other wheel or a seat. I wouldn’t lock a bike the way he is in the video unless I was only going to be a few minutes but I am sure locking strategies would be a different video.
@@brianwallace1244 you are right. All the respect for all the work he is doing but this video is 90% wrong/weak.U-lock is top 1 and then chain(a good one is very heavy for a cyclist)and then the rest
The most convenient lock for most people is actually a frame lock. They're standard on bikes in the Netherlands, where most of the population commute on a bike. You can still pick up a bike that has a frame lock engaged but you can't ride it and they're hard enough to cut because their location and proximity to the wheel makes them awkward to cut. Combining a frame lock which you use when your bicycle is in your line of sight and any of these locks you mention locking the bike to something solid when you have to leave it somewhere is likely to be highly convenient and keep your bike modestly secure.
Plus at least some of the frame locks have a slot for a chain/cable attachment that secures the locked wheel bike to a stand or something. That's what I use on my city bike (it's dutch made and it came with the frame lock, I just bought a compatible chain attachment I always keep in my panniers (simple ones that also don't leave the bike)). If I plan to get away from the bike for a longer time, I take additional heavier chain lock from my other, bike (I keep one of it's spare keys on the key in the frame lock of the city bike for convenience).
In the Netherlands, most people don't have a giant truck or SUV at the ready. Those are common and have only become more common in N. America over the past 10+ years as dealerships and manufacturers push them more, offer fewer models of cars, because the trucks and SUV's...wait for it...make them more money. Right now, where some people might want a few dollars here and there to help fuel up that truck or SUV, might pick up your nice secure frame-locked bike and make some money on it. Even if it's only $100 for a bike that's worth $400.
Have you seen our lock yet? curious what you think- it's sort of a combination between a frame lock and a folding lock. ua-cam.com/video/bkroiEZ9u58/v-deo.html
From the Netherlands here, I'm using two different styles of locks, on my sportier bikes I use an Abus nylon braid covered chain, but this is a bike I won't leave anywhere for very long, this is just for going in to a shop for a minute. My city bike has a Dutch lock, with a cable/chain attachment. This is definitely by far the best lock for anti theft and convenience. I have used U-locks in the past, but never really jived with them. The cables are convenient, but a good quality little pair of Knipex wire cutter pliers will cut through these in like four or five 'bites'...
If you can, it’s best to lock up your back wheel along with your frame. The priority goes: frame, back wheel, then front wheel. That’s ordered by value.
In the hood we place the U-lock across rear wheel and frame, and throw a chain around the front wheel, and frame on the pole or bicycle parking …. I can tell this guy lives in a nice area lol
I have a Dutch lock on my old Dutch bike and it's brilliant. More security through obscurity, not many bikes here in Manchester have them. Mine has a cable attachment but as the bike weighs about 25kg its not going to be easy to run off carrying it.
The first rule in Netherland is to have two locks. One locks your bike to something solid, the other locks the wheels to the bike. I use two levels of protection. One level is a 30 year old Schwinn cable lock. It's an old school padlock with a laminated shell. Very tough. The other level is a cheap department store bike in unwantable condition. Nobody wants my bike and it's too much trouble to break the lock. Even I don't want my bike. I''m replacing it with something better, but in an oddball configuration nobody would want to steal. And I'm getting a U-lock to go with the cable lock.
I use a chain lock because is mor flexible and I can use it in different structures. I use it as belt for transportation and lets me know if I'm gaining weight
The chain lock was an absolute necessity for me when I was living in the rural South; very few bike racks around and I often had to find highly creative parking spots that would not have been possible with a u-lock. I've transitioned away now that I thankfully do have better lock-up options everywhere I go. This is definitely a key factor here.
A chain lock can be carried wrapped around the stem of your seat. And there should be laws against owning a cordless grinder. 99% of those serve one purpose only: stealing bikes.
@@Shifter_Cycling In an earlier video you truthfully said bike theft undermines everything. Why are some "authorities " so stupid and useless. Llke my high school principal. I had had enough bullying from a guy who was a well known bully and they did nothing. When I took the fight to him I was suddenly the bad guy. Same years later when a guy pulled a knife on my brother to rob him . The guy made a mistake by letting himself get distracted and my brother wiped the floor with him. The same stupid principal acted like he was the problem,not the armed robber,even referring to me as ultra violent and my brother the same. The same fool went on to become a politician. We better be careful we don't end up like England. Where if a criminal attacks you and you fight back and hurt him you are the bad guy. You better just hope the bad guy doesn't hurt or kill you. What a pitiful,insipid,weak way to act.
Not long ago I got a U-lock with cable at a local bike shop. It mounted to the bike using a molded plastic mount. After a few weeks, the mount had developed a crack and broke and the the lock fell off the bike mid-ride. I was able to return the lock to the bike shop and exchanged it for a folding lock. I have to agree about the convenience of the folding lock. The only thing is that it rattles a bit in its mount while riding but other than that I really like it.
I solved the rattling issue but lining the holder with a thin piece of Ethafoam (the sheet foam usually found in furniture packaging). The material is super easy to cut to size, usually costs nothing.
I have mostly used the ulock and cable locks. I do agree part of the issue with locks is where to put them. I used to carry them on me either slung around or in a back pack. I added racks and baskets and keep them lashed to those. Much easier.
My chain is easy to transport - it just sits in the side pocket of one of the rear panniers. One of the great things about being a utility cycle user rather than a "cyclist" is that my old bike isn't worth much (yanked from a skip!) and has lots of carrying capacity.
I use an Asus rear wheel lock that is permanently attached to my frame. When I park my bike, I pull a lever, and it blocks the back wheel from moving. For extra security, the model frame lock I have includes a chain that locks into the lever, and a loop on the other end. I can loop that around a bike rack. Then I have another Asus chain lock like the one in the video. I usually use it to lock my front wheel to the rack. Is three locks overkill? Probably. But that's the idea. Make my bike a huge pain in the ass to steal.
@@coconut7 Damn, you should have saved some money by going with the Asus Prime Wheel Lock ($549) or the Asus Phantom Wheel Lock ($399) as they're indistinguishable except for the lack of Fully Programmable Aura Sync® Compatible ARGB™
Ignoring that last item, the best thing about the frame-lock/plug-in-chain system is that is is very tidy. You put the noose around the frame, then just wrap the chain around your seat post or frame, and then plug it in. It makes it super easy to unwind, to go around a pole, then plug in. And if you want to, you can just use the frame-lock for short stops at small stores.
If you live in an area with theft at all, you really should be using two locks of different types (not cable locks...they're totally useless). Folding or chain plus a U-lock is usually a good combo. Usually spending 10% of the cost of the bike is a good rule of thumb.
Best way to carry a cable lock is to make a neat coil, put the small side through the coil, and then put it through the 2 thin metal bars underneath the seat and click it. No wrapping around the frame, fast and easy, mine doesnt bounce much at all. Very convenient.
ik at this point this video is a little older compared to your newer ones, but i've been watching some of your older videos and man has your presentation and quality gone up. Love to see. Keep up the damn good work!
The best place to stash the u-lock is on the rear rack. I usually only have one pannier on the left and my ulock hanging on the right. I keep a bungee cord on there to keep it from bouncing around.
For me I use a cloth covered chain lock on all my bikes. Very quick to lock and unlock, just long enough to lock my front wheel and frame to a bike rack, and very easy to wrap around my seat post, when I'm riding my bike. My lock is so easy to use, I am usually unlocked and gone, long before most other cyclists.
Great vid, thanks. As for transporting chain and cable locks, a bungee on the rear rack will do the job. I have a 3' chain lock, but that sucker weighs a pound per foot, and around here 3' isn't really long enough, so I use a cable lock. It deters opportunistic thieves, the most common kind, and I don't usually leave it that long. Also, every time I lock it, I understand that if a pro *really* wants my bike, he's going to get it, doesn't matter what lock is on it. Fortunately my bike, while awesome, isn't the latest and greatest, so pros won't be interested.
I take your point about chain locks being hard to transport because you can't get a good mount. On the flip side, of course, a D-lock is much harder to transport if you *don’t* have a matching mount fixed to your bike. Personally my city bikes have always had a rack on the back, and that's where the chain lock goes. In a pinch, if I need the rack to transport something else and I don't have a bag, I can always hang the lock on the handlebars (or somewhere else, but I find the handlebars practical for a short trip because it’s so easy!) PS: The traditional place for a cable lock is around the saddle post ;-)
I agree that the folding lock is the best compromise for day to day use with a moderately priced bike. The ease of carrying them on the frame is a definite winner,
I can only wish there were more bike racks available where I live.. Often I'm stuck locking to a tree or light post, and quite often sign posts (normally not easily just lifted up and over). And on some rare occasions, there's nothing to lock to so all I can do is lock my tires to my frame. So... I have a small circle lock that just does a tire to a frame, and a long cable lock. My bike is also electric, so.. I don't have much space on my frame to secure a lock to when not in use other than my top bar and a little area above the battery. So, it's a cable lock coiled around my top bar, and a small circular cable lock around my seat post through the frame till I also use it. I would use a chain lock, but it would need to be long and heavy to go around a tree... You'd think of all places Florida would be the most bike friendly, but it's not really. There's not many sidewalks away from the cities, and there's not many good sidewalks in the cities.. There's also very few bike lanes, or bike trails... And... very few places have bike racks than you'd think. Most strip malls have no racks :( Most 7-11's have no bike racks. There's plenty of places, like a gas station I buy my smokes at, that literally have nothing and I'd need to walk blocks to the nearest something for a simple couple of moments purchase inside... I have many friends down here who used to bike commute but quit because they've been hit by a car more than once and came to the conclusion that it's just too dangerous to bike often around here. I can't say I disagree with them either, but I can't afford a car where I live and work... So... I think most of us are stuck with what works best for our lives as far as locks and most things are concerned. You can find and recommend the best anything, but often what's best is A. What's available and affordable to you and... B. What's most convenient/practical. Therefore, a video on "the best of classes" is often better than "what's best" for anyone. I think we all know a solid bar of metal with the best locking mechanism is best. 99% of where I travel to won't allow for that. Also high on the list of what wont work for me is folding locks... Sorry, can't get around the light post and pillar at work and through my frame. A long chain link lock would be my best option, but it would need to be thick and long for that to work.. One day I'll prolly eventually have the spare cash for something like that, but until then... I'm stuck with a long Kryptonite cable with padlock. :(
Personally I love chain locks, I find them very safe and easy to use. Last few years however I've been using such an old bike that nobody would ever steal it so a cable lock is enough 😅
a dumpy bike with little resale value is the best deterrent. if you know how to work on bikes it can still be a good ride. i never lock mine, just wrap a padlocked curly cable around it and a stationary object and back through itself so it looks locked at a glance in case someone walking might be tempted by an unlocked bike to make their walk go faster . quick and easy, has worked for me so far
In here before it premieres and I'm excited to find out what your conclusion is. My money is on chain lock because well that's what I use and it's just as easy as a cable lock (which I used before), but way more secure and at the same time way more versatile than a U-lock so you dont have to look for a special place to attach it.
@@Shifter_Cycling Yeah, I see your point. I have to add that I use one that's intergrated with my dutch backwheel lock so I can just quickly wrap it round my frame/seat post, plug it into the lock and go. It's a 5 second job to wrap it or unwrap it and after that so easy to attach to anything.
@@woutervanr I use the same setup on my ebike as well, the regular lock is considered "good enough" for insurance. And the chain to attach it to something is useful, I do recognise that only having to deal with one cylinder is a bit of a vulnerability. Ideally to get the most out of a chain lock and regular lock you'd want a thief to have to deal with two actual locks (not just one cylinder and both are released). I see the specific model of AXA lock around a lot on similar pricy ebikes, so that might make it interesting enough for certain people to learn how to pick it quickly. But I am already somewhat sloppy at not bothering to use this convenient chain lock, outside the city near the entrance of stores when there are always people present I typically don't bother. If it's at a less busy/visible place for a longer period or the more sketchy areas in the city then I do use it.
I've been using a U-lock with a cable for a while now, and I find that it's really not too bad after you get used to locking and unlocking your bike. I no longer use the little velcro strap, and just sort of weave/loop the cable through the lock. It now takes significantly less time to undo the cable to lock my bike, and then get it done back up after I unlock it. I also appreciate the added versatility of the cable. There have been multiple situations where my U-lock couldn't reach the rack, but the cable could.
In Seattle where people only seem to really steal stuff that's not bolted to the bike and aggressive theft of the whole bike seems uncommon, I went with a foldylock and $6/month bike insurance. I've never had a problem apart from a thief just ripping my zip tied pannier right off the frame (tore the pannier before the zip ties went) and I never leave my bike unattended overnight. I agree that the convenience of the foldylock is just unparalleled. Particularly paired with bad (and sometimes no) bike racks, they're able to get around trees and posts when you need to, which is a situation I run into a LOT. Also use an allen key titanium front axle and a belt drive system makes the rear all but impossible to remove. But even then, insurance is just nice to have. I pay about $70 a year for insurance that covers complete replacement.
Never make fun of someone for mispronouncing words -- it means they learned them from reading. That said I'm having real difficulty letting "cave-eat" go.... :)
I quite like the Dutch bike approach. 1 the bike itself has a built in lock you can engage in seconds. Good enough to prevent it from being ridden away, but not good enough to prevent it from being tossed in a truck. You can use it to run into a store for a minute, or whatever. 2 - a chain that you run through both wheels and a locking location. Good enough for most purposes. You can wrap the heavy chain pretty easily around the front fork and ignore it when riding about. Fewer issues that I've ever had with bike lock mounts provided by manufacturers.
So called Cafe locks (also called integrated frame locks or dutch lock) are brilliant invention, not very popular apart from some countries in Europe. My family is using them for many years and they are one of the best. Easy to use, small and always attached to bike. They need extra chain or another lock to attach to bike stand but even on their own are very useful. Also LockPickingLawyer has got some good bike lock reviews. Including picking and destruction. Well worth watching his videos! He uses Kryptonite chain lock.
I Danish family moved into my 'hood years ago and used their wheel locks (or frame locks, as you call them) on their bikes exactly once until they were stolen. I'm afraid in cities like mine, where pickup trucks are ubiquitous, stealing a bike by throwing it into the back of a truck even if the wheel is locked is all-too easy.
The weakness of a Dutch lock is that the bike can still be picked up and carried away, or tossed in the back of a truck. Once that happens, the thief can work on the lock itself at their leisure, with no worries about being interrupted.
@@Shifter_Cycling Agree. That's why Abus for example offers them with a slot for detachable chain used for locking bike to the stand. Depending on circumstances would use it alone or in combination with another lock like chain or Ulock. The advantage of Dutch lock is that it is always there, no fuss with storing etc. It is just another layer of defense against thieves.
@@Shifter_Cycling One more thought on the subject. How about having bike that can be taken with you to office or stored easily in small apartments like Brompton, Tern BYB, GoCycle? That's for of theft protection as well.
@@Shifter_Cycling Without the plug-in chain, they are useful for short trips to the diary, or to put outside the glass of a subway. Nothing more. And that is incredibly useful, because most trips are like that. With the chain, it is good for moderate security. If I'm going to the movies I take my expensive Abus u-lock, and use that with the frame-lock. Tho there no point using the chain when I could also just use the u-lock... Also chain or u-lock, it offers added flexibility. And that is very important for choosing the right convience for the situation.
Your research is flawed - I looked over your spreadsheet. There is a *huge* difference between a 16 mm and even a 12 mm chain or U-lock. Even bigger difference between a 17 mm chain (on the spreadsheet) and a 6 mm chain (what you considered an appropriate substitute). A 17 mm chain is an expensive stationary lock, and it is extremely secure. A 6 mm chain is only slightly better than a cable lock, is portable, and is useless for anything but accessories or your front wheel.
Yah. First thing I noticed was the d lock not being used correctly. But darn I ride a woman's bike and it won't store on the frame but still it's comforting to know my rear quick release wheel is safe.
I have on my bike 2 x U Lock's, a Loop which is permanently threaded through my quick release seat (I've seen seat's only stolen from pretty ordinary bikes - possibly just by some hooligans with a sense of humour? 😳) and a combination cable lock. 95%+ of the time I just use one U-Lock in area's I feel pretty secure in like around my local small town. If I go to a much bigger town with a not so bike safe reputation then I will make a point of using them all. I realise that if someone REALLY wants my bike and is an experienced or professional thief then nothing I use will stop them, particularly the cable lock and loop. But it will certainly deter them or encourage them to take the other guys bike instead. I have seen regularly in bigger towns either single wheels remaining locked in bike racks or the wheels gone and the rest of the frame remaining. Quick release on a bicycle used regularly about towns or cities are probably more of a security pain in the ass as they are a benefit in other ways. I never considered carrying these locks and cable's as a major inconvenience. They're really a necessity. I wrap the cable lock around the crossbar. The loop is permanently threaded through the seat and wrapped around the seat post. And the 2 U-Locks are locked around the seat post with the heavy locks resting on the carrier behind.
I wound my chain lock around my seat post when not in use. To use I would unwind a length, then run it through the back wheel (and frame rear triangle) the around a post or rack if available. This leaves all of the frame's main triangle for other things like bottle cages, frame bags, etc. This was very convenient, quick and easy.
You could look for a frame lock, which is attached to the frame and locks the rear wheel between the spokes. Some frame locks has the ability to also plug-in a chain or cable.
I keep my chain lock wrapped around my seatpost. Nice and close to my rear wheel/triangle, which is what I loop it through when locking. If I ever take a trip to a bigger city where I feel like I need it, I have a cable that I loop through my front wheel, but I don't find that necessary where I live.
I use a a heavy U-lock as my main and a folding lock as my secondary. U-lock for the back wheel to rack, folding locks front wheel to frame and then rack if possible.
The research is right: Don't get a cable lock. mine got cut the first day I used it in public. never happened to me with other types of locks (chains/u-lock)
I use a Kryptonite New York Standard. I used to use the Kryptonite bracket to carry it, but unfortunately mine gradually came loose and it's not really possible to tighten it. Kryptonite know that people want the lock to be great, so I think the bracket is an afterthought. However! I'm happy to have found that Zefal Doodad universal bike pump straps are a cheap and secure way to carry a heavy U-lock inside your frame! This is a good solution for me.
Not a bike lock video. . I lock my bike which cost me one hundred dollars . A bike over 300 dollars you can expect it to be stolen. They even steel the 100 dollar Walmart bike if I didn't urban stealth it . That is. The shifter broken one V brake is inoperable rusty sprocket and chain generally crapoy appearance. Best security is that there are few or none walkers or bicyclist in the area
Proper U-locking technique: Put the U through the immovable object and then through your rear wheel in the frame triangle, loop the cable through the front wheel and onto an end of the U, shackle on, turn key.
I've never had a problem wrapping chain locks around the frame, though I'll say double sided velcro helps a ton in keeping them from rattling. I'm a bit disappointed that there were no alarmed locks used in this video as they're the best deterrent in my opinion.
My locking system is tiered depending on where I am (how dangerous the place is generally) and how long I'll be away from the bike. Level 1 is a simple cable lock (safe neighbourhood /
I've been using a chain lock the same way for over 3 years now. Though I've recently revealed that it managed to erase a little paint off my bike somehow XD
Does an alarmed lock really be the best deterrent? from personal experience when the same car/ scooter/ moped with an alarm goes off for the umpteenth time in a week, or god forbid on a daily occurence, people start ignoring it.
A U-lock can be easily, cheaply, and securely to the bike frame with 3 thick straps of velcro. Voile straps are also strong and handy for securing locks to a bike frame.
When I don't have a bag, I just hang the thing on my handlebars, it might rattle around a little on a rough road, but it doesn't generally move around much or interfere with anything.
Here in Raleigh North Carolina it's not uncommon to see bikes locked up missing the front wheels whether the bike has quick release or not. I have no idea why they just steal the wheels but in Raleigh they'll steal anything that's not nailed down I've even seen empty cans get stolen.
i dknt know what goes in there in europe or somewhere but in India our older bikes used to have a inbuilt looes which were literally unbreakable. They are called Mark-1 bike locks and they well made of steel/alluminiumattacked under your seat and locks your rear wheel. just have to rotate your key to unlock/lock no adjustments it was fixed. If you try to cut it with a badder saw you would cut the tyre/frame just read 9ther comments yes it is exactly the "Dutch Lock" 🥲
IMO, if you're going to be cheap and only buy a cable lock, save your money and just used a piece of rope and tie a knot in it when you leave your bike. Equally effective (i.e. not at all) and cheaper. When I worked at a bike shop it was so frustrating when someone bought a nice $1000+ commuter bike and then cheap out on the lock (we even gave a discount on accessories when you bought a bike).
Am I the only one who read the "Before I Die I want to not have an adult child living in my basement" written on the wall at the beginning? That's Hilarious!~
The problem with the Kryptonite U-locks is that the mount sucks. If you've got the New York one, which is pretty heavy, it'll come loose after every few bumps. In fact I've started carrying it on the rear rack and hold it down with bungee cords. But I'd expect a better mount from Kryptonite for the price you pay for those locks.
When I was doing research at a university library, I simply left a heavy chain and lock there. It beat carrying it back and forth each day. Best of all was when I worked at a hospital. It provided a fenced in area with a camera moitoring the entrance. All bikers needed to do was ask for a key.
I live in a country with high crime rates (3rd highest in the world, theft of personal property being most common form of theft)😓. People are regularly mugged on the streets for their phones, I've even had runner friends having to hand over their running shoes in street muggings😳. There are two rules about bike security I'd share. First, spend at least 10% of bike value on security. Second, when it comes to locks use multiple. For QUICK stops to a cafe I use a standard cable lock as it is both the most convenient and easy to use (but with that comes most risk). I often cycle alone so I don't have a buddy to watch my bike when I go into a shop. But my full bike security looks like this: cable lock, D lock and cable, folding lock, rotor locks (f+r), bike alarm and GPS tracking. (10% of bike value). I don't have a chain because I never leave my bike unattended for extended periods of time. I suppose if I were regularly stopping at a specific bike stand I would just chain the stand and leave the chain there for everyday use🤷♀️ Buy once, cry once! You can always move your security every time you upgrade your bike.
The folding locks are most convenient for me, including storing on the frame easily. But it is medium security at best, so use accordingly. I only use mine on short trips, where I'm usually within visual distance of the bike. For anywhere longer or less secure I add a beefy ulock, and that doubles the tools and time a thief needs. But sadly I follow the low profile bike usage, the fancy bikes stay at home indoors always and my utility bike is my main ride. It looks junky and not super valuable, I consider having a bike look dingy urban camo. Also The Lockpicking Lawyer channel here on YT is informative if not a bit unnerving. But his advise as a biker is the same and only lock up expendable bikes, and on his junker he uses a kryponite chain.
I have had my bike stolen once and I was using a U lock with a cable, supposedly secure. Since then I haven't bothered with heavy or inconvinient locks like that, I use a short cable lock that lives wrapped around my top tube. I try to lock my bike up in places where a thief would likely be caught on camera or somewhere that has a constant flow of foot traffic so that someone stealing my bike might be noticed. I also will only leave it in one spot for about an hour. If I need to lock up my bike for longer I will go to a secure storage shed of some kind. I see a lock as simply preventing a passerby from running away with my bike
The best way to lock a bike with a U-lock is to lock the rear wheel through the triangle of the seat tube, the seat stays and the chain stays. This allows the most flexibility. If it is possible you can put the lock through both the seat tube and the rear wheel. The front wheel can be secured by removing it and locking with the U-lock along with the rear wheel. Another option would be to use a cable to secure the front wheel with the U-lock. I use the cable to secure my front wheel so I don't have to deal with removing and replacing the front wheel.
In reality, no lock is any use against a determined thief - so you're preventing an opportunist someone from just walking off with your bike - which means the lightest, easiest to use lock is best. Any old light thing that locks. I favour a plastic coated, short (12") snap shut cable lock. I could, with a quiet cordless grinder & a Stainless steel grade cutting disc, , cut it in seconds - same goes for EVERY lock - no matter the price point. So just pick the lightest/easiest one you will use because it's easy/light. No bike lock on earth works against a determined thief - remember that - so pick the easiest to use that suits you - and don't get invested in "The Bike" - buy a bike you can lose without caring, go buy another - ride on. Bikes get nicked - don't let it eat you up, it's only Life - get another, don't care too much about it either. Show me the worlds most expensive bike lock - I'll show you how to cut it in 10 seconds - so forget "Quality" & buy "convenience". And buy a "P.O.S" bike that you like riding - nobody will want to nick it. I ride a pretty cheap "girls" bike - I think if I asked a thief to nick it, they'd pass - but it rides great - tell no-one.
Just a technical video tip_ when discussing a new product and how to use it, use close up shots . This will help your audience see exactly what your doing in better detail .cheers.
I also use the folding lock. It is the most universal - almost as easy to set up and transport like cable lock, lighter than U-lock or chain, gives a similar level of security as average quality chain, it's much more flexible then U-lock and is always at a bike. Not the best on any of these catgories but it's the best on avarage.
I use a light combination chain lock and wrap it on the top tube of the bike. If the pole is thin like a parking sign pole, then I will only partially unwrap it and secure it on the pole, otherwise unwrap and then rewrap the lock against the immovable object. The combination lock is convenient because you don’t have to even carry keys, lock on the bike, the key absent is great to making riding access, maybe at the expense of security as a cryptographer can easily crack a 4 digit password, xD. But Tom made a point to not ride a very expensive bike. I have a 2nd hand road bike with down tube shifters that maybe more than a decade ago, hopefully that won’t get stolen. Any reply about my setup will be appreciated.
@@Shifter_Cycling Can confirm; took my folding bike (with folding lock) out for the first time in months a little while ago and discovered after doing some shopping the combo on it was not at all what I thought it was... Fortunately I got lucky and something jogged my memory after about 15 minutes of fumbling about.
Just getting back into biking after a lot of falce starts, mostly down to being very short . I need short cranks, even with a XXS size bike the best i was offered was 165mm cranks which was still to long . Recently found a small 13" trek mtb along with an old rigid specialized fork and a crankset of 140mm from a folding bike . It's coming together as a cheap hack do it all everyday bike that no one wants to steal, hopefully? With that in mind i don't want a lock that costs 3x the cost of the bike ,or weight half the weight of the bike , my solution is thin stainless wire and a cheap padlock. My thinking is convenience, low weight. Yes the security will be low . However living in a low risk area most theft is opportunity theft . Thieves are generally opportunists, unless they are running around with bolt cutters or angle grinders, even the cheapest lock solutions will work ? I might have to eat my words ? But that's my plan at the very least Thieves will need at least a good set of pliers?
I always take my bike with me on public transport, buses have front racks, train/trolley has space inside for bikes. But one day I was to meet my Sister in San Diego and I thought the express bus didn't allow bikes (I was wrong), so I locked my bike for the day to bike rack in front of the ticket office that had cameras which was about 10 feet away. So bike wasn't stolen, but it did get majorly vandalized. So depressing, had to carry it home. Police took report, I'm sure nothing was done.
I saw bike lockers at the Tyson Corner Va subway stop and at the Capitol Hill subway stop in WASHINGTON DC. They didn't look like they were maintained. . They must have a short life span. One or two years at the most
That's a problem with an exoensive bike. If they can't steal it they can sure vandalize it. I live in Gainesville Va home owners consider it upscale area . Not Tony but I might be the only one that rides a bicycle for transportation meaning the incentive to swipe a bike is more trouble than its worth. Never the less if my bicycle is stolen it would be a sad state of affairs to walk back home . Whether 2 hundred yards or 1 and a half miles. I price a bicycle in the unlikely case it is stolen at the replacement cost. . I presently use a cheap ass cable lock . The bike is poorly maintain and looks like fecal matter on purpose its stuck permanently in lowest gear
@@ME-hm7zm ha ha funny. I wouldn't of thought any one reading my comment would have the slightest idea the locations I was talking about . But you are way ahead of me cheers
@@robertbrawley5048 $600 for bike from REI, not sure if that counts as "expensive". It was for me, but I still have it and put 20+thousand miles on it over the years as my main transport. So worth the cost.
You don't use u-locks on the top bar, you're supposed to use it on the seat stay going trought the bike triangle, rear triangle and the back wheel. All bikes that have a read triangle, including step trough frames, can use a u-lock.
@@PaulSpades I mean the attachment to store it on the bike (one of the conveniences the video mentioned). I updated the comment above to make it clearer
Went for option 5 myself, Dutch frame lock with plug-in chain. Meets the requirements for bike insurance, extremely easy. Can't be accidentally left at home.
By far the most convenient lock I have is an ABUS adaptor chain. It's like that chain lock, but instead of having its own lock, it plugs into an ABUS frame lock. Because of how they designed the plug mechanism, it can be locked without any fumbling with keys. When I'm not using it, I just throw it into my basket
This is actually the best urban lock. You can change how secure you want it with the chain and if you just want to quickly stop at a shop you're done with locking up in fractions of a second
That's pretty much what I have (except some version by AXA), if you use the lock a lot keeping it in your basket makes sense. I prefer to keep my panniers empty and wrap it around the saddle stem instead. That way uhh they can't steal my chain when I just use the frame lock but I often park my bicycle at places where I don't strictly need to use it (at home, at my parents, outside a shop entrance with a busy flow of people, etc). The chain gets used if I park in the city or out of sight outdoors for an extended period of time elsewhere. The only real downside to it in my opinion is that it just has one cylinder for both locks, two independent locks for a thief to deal with would be harder. But it can't be beaten for convenience while getting a fairly solid way of locking up the bike.
Anyone else buy insurance on your bike only? Never thought I would but for $10 a month I have my Kona covered. My home owners deductive is higher than what the bike is worth
Thanks for your video! Perhaps it's overkill (it's Toronto afterall), but I use all of the locks you'd mentioned except for the folding one: 3 U-locks (one of which secures front wheel to frame) used with 2 looping cables; 1 cable lock that threads through the saddle, pannier rack and post; and 1 chain lock to reinforce as needed. As per your other video, luckily there's a police registry for bikes in Toronto. That was a good video, too, so ta for that 👍
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U-lock over top tube. NOOOOOO!
A rough twist of the bike and a cheap U-Lock is toast as the top tube gives a lot of leverage.
Always lock up the rear wheel to the frame and a post, cable goes around front wheel.
Comments like this make me feel grateful bike theft isn't even worse in my city! Thanks for the tips.
Definitely, you want to put the lock with the key hole facing downward if possible, and put it in a position where you make someone with an angle grinder have to bend down awkwardly to cut it.
@@Shifter_Cycling also those foldable locks are notoriously bad. They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup. Same with cable locks, they might be really convenient, but they're also really convenient for thieves, who can cut them open like scissors cutting paper.
Many bike racks can be quickly and quietly cut with a sawz, and the aluminum bike racks take two seconds to do two cuts, so a top tube lock means the bike can be ridden away with the lock still locked.
My recommendation is to use a chain through the rear wheel only, as tight as possible off the ground. A chain going around a frame and a wheel is vulnerable to an angle grinder as the chain can be placed firmly against the frame. That's really hard to do with a chain only through the wheel.
Basically, most bikes are stolen when it rains. Streets empty, noise doesn't carry far at all, police won't get out of their cars, and bike patrols will stay under cover.
Folding and u-locks are all light security, because both are highly vulnerable to small bolt cutters or hydraulic wedges. Even a Kryptonite 14mm ulock is easily cut within seconds with an angle grinder if you can put a foot on it. And if it's a heavy rain you won't even be able to hear that angle grinder.
I personally use a 12mm noose chain, a 7 mm regular chain, and a folding lock, through frame, rear wheel, and frame and rear wheel.
@@ARandomBoat _"They're super easy to pick, and can be snapped open like a can of tomato soup"_ -- it would depend on the exact design, but the Abus versions use disc detainer locks, which very few people have the tools, never mind the expertise to pick. I'd say they are the opposite of "super easy to pick". They _are_ vulnerable to an attack at each hinge point; a bolt splitter will be able to eventually pull apart the joint in most cases. But for either picking or breaking, a thief would have to come prepared for that specific type of lock.
For now, they are uncommon enough that there's some "security by obscurity", such that a thief looking for a quick score (and aren't they all?) is going to skip past a bike locked with a folding lock and go on to an easier target.
"Who wants to ride around with a heavy chain around your neck...." Let me open this Rap video in my other tab.
You win the Internet for today.
@@Shifter_Cycling I literally watched this yest :P ua-cam.com/video/Qwg2JYRDpQs/v-deo.html time to test!
Mr. T
Hah! My first thought too.
those are the same thing obviously
I've watched a lot of these videos from others. I have to say that rather than wasting a huge amount of time showing us every model of every manufacturer and giving us a history of bike locking. You did what you promised after a brief and to the point introduction. That puts you head and shoulders above others. Good work.
Regarding your comment at 5:00 about people stealing wheels, when I lived in NYC I had a series of photos about bikes in various stages of “decomposition” due to theft. Some bikes you could create a time lapse of their regression. It would start with the seat, and you could imagine the bike owner telling themselves “well, I can’t bike home without a seat. I’ll go to Modell’s tomorrow and pick up a seat, and then take the bike home.” But then the next day they would arrive and now the bike was missing the seat AND the rear wheel (because the front one was locked with the rest of the bike). And so on
When you lock up with a U-Lock you should try and put it through the rear wheel as well as the frame, this will leave much less space for thieves to get leverage or fit a jack inside.
Also a good tip is to have 2 types of locks. Even if the 2nd lock isn't as strong as the primary lock, it's a good deterrent if it would require a different tool to pick and/or break open to the other, which the theif might not have.
For manual bikes I would reccomend a U-Lock as a primary lock with a folding or armoured cable as a secondary deterrent because it doesn't weigh much.
Personally I have an E-bike so I don't mind carrying a heavy long noose chain around in a pannier as it gives me much more flexibility for locking up, especially when couriering to places that might not have a bike stand; a U-Lock can't go round many types of lamposts and railings.
*D lock
I'm pretty sure for a U-lock, you put the U around your rear wheel AND the seat tube or seat stays. The extra loop is for your front wheel.
This; secure frame and rear wheel with priority, and front wheel second.
That depends on the size of the U-lock. I've got a mini, and it won't fit around frame, tube, and bicycle rack / fencepost / whatever else, all at the same time.
Then again, I've got a cheap-assed bike that isn't worth stealing by anyone with tools, so merely deterring _casual_ theft is more than sufficient. :)
I use a mini u-lock and only secure the rear wheel inside the triangle formed by the seat stays, seat tube, and chain stay to a bike rack. That secures the frame even though the u lock isn’t around the frame because there is no way to take the bike frame with the wheel locked inside unless you slice through the entire wheel(probably the second most expensive thing on the bike and rendering the bike inoperable). You can then use a cable connected to the u-lock to secure the other wheel or a seat. I wouldn’t lock a bike the way he is in the video unless I was only going to be a few minutes but I am sure locking strategies would be a different video.
@@brianwallace1244 you are right. All the respect for all the work he is doing but this video is 90% wrong/weak.U-lock is top 1 and then chain(a good one is very heavy for a cyclist)and then the rest
Yes. Same thing for the foldable lock.
The most convenient lock for most people is actually a frame lock. They're standard on bikes in the Netherlands, where most of the population commute on a bike. You can still pick up a bike that has a frame lock engaged but you can't ride it and they're hard enough to cut because their location and proximity to the wheel makes them awkward to cut. Combining a frame lock which you use when your bicycle is in your line of sight and any of these locks you mention locking the bike to something solid when you have to leave it somewhere is likely to be highly convenient and keep your bike modestly secure.
Plus at least some of the frame locks have a slot for a chain/cable attachment that secures the locked wheel bike to a stand or something. That's what I use on my city bike (it's dutch made and it came with the frame lock, I just bought a compatible chain attachment I always keep in my panniers (simple ones that also don't leave the bike)). If I plan to get away from the bike for a longer time, I take additional heavier chain lock from my other, bike (I keep one of it's spare keys on the key in the frame lock of the city bike for convenience).
In the Netherlands, most people don't have a giant truck or SUV at the ready. Those are common and have only become more common in N. America over the past 10+ years as dealerships and manufacturers push them more, offer fewer models of cars, because the trucks and SUV's...wait for it...make them more money.
Right now, where some people might want a few dollars here and there to help fuel up that truck or SUV, might pick up your nice secure frame-locked bike and make some money on it. Even if it's only $100 for a bike that's worth $400.
Have you seen our lock yet? curious what you think- it's sort of a combination between a frame lock and a folding lock.
ua-cam.com/video/bkroiEZ9u58/v-deo.html
@@lobsterlock The one that LPL helped you to improve! I'd get one but my bicycle has no bottle cage mount.
From the Netherlands here, I'm using two different styles of locks, on my sportier bikes I use an Abus nylon braid covered chain, but this is a bike I won't leave anywhere for very long, this is just for going in to a shop for a minute. My city bike has a Dutch lock, with a cable/chain attachment. This is definitely by far the best lock for anti theft and convenience. I have used U-locks in the past, but never really jived with them. The cables are convenient, but a good quality little pair of Knipex wire cutter pliers will cut through these in like four or five 'bites'...
If you can, it’s best to lock up your back wheel along with your frame.
The priority goes: frame, back wheel, then front wheel. That’s ordered by value.
1
"Don't ride an expensive bike." Ok but what about e-bikes?
In the hood we place the U-lock across rear wheel and frame, and throw a chain around the front wheel, and frame on the pole or bicycle parking …. I can tell this guy lives in a nice area lol
You can just wrap the chain lock over the top tube of your bicycle frame. Its easy and becuase its flexible you can roll it asmuch as you need.
I wrap it around my seat post
@@Kanvereb same, i actually find it the most portable lock for this reason
Agree I wrap it under my seat and over the top tube just shaped like and L and it gives no trouble. I actually use two of them 😁
Hi from Ilkeston, UK. Looking forward to this - I’ve just converted to a Dutch lock on my old classic .
I have a Dutch lock on my old Dutch bike and it's brilliant. More security through obscurity, not many bikes here in Manchester have them. Mine has a cable attachment but as the bike weighs about 25kg its not going to be easy to run off carrying it.
I thought the Dutch lock was no lock at all 👍
*I love the **Latest.Bike** I use it when going camping. It folds up so easy and isn’t heavy at all. Rides so smooth. I love my bike!*
The first rule in Netherland is to have two locks. One locks your bike to something solid, the other locks the wheels to the bike.
I use two levels of protection. One level is a 30 year old Schwinn cable lock. It's an old school padlock with a laminated shell. Very tough.
The other level is a cheap department store bike in unwantable condition. Nobody wants my bike and it's too much trouble to break the lock.
Even I don't want my bike. I''m replacing it with something better, but in an oddball configuration nobody would want to steal. And I'm getting a U-lock to go with the cable lock.
I use a chain lock because is mor flexible and I can use it in different structures. I use it as belt for transportation and lets me know if I'm gaining weight
The chain lock was an absolute necessity for me when I was living in the rural South; very few bike racks around and I often had to find highly creative parking spots that would not have been possible with a u-lock. I've transitioned away now that I thankfully do have better lock-up options everywhere I go. This is definitely a key factor here.
If you attach a big enough clock to a bike chain around your neck, us 80's kids will get the reference. Just sayin'
A chain lock can be carried wrapped around the stem of your seat.
And there should be laws against owning a cordless grinder. 99% of those serve one purpose only: stealing bikes.
Cordless grinders are a huge problem. They are so cheap and powerful these days.
I second this, I've been doing it for months now and it's definitely an easy way to carry a chain.
PS my original post disappeared. My bikes were locked .
I said bike thieves are vermin and should be treated as such.
@@Shifter_Cycling In an earlier video you truthfully said bike theft undermines everything.
Why are some "authorities " so stupid and useless. Llke my high school principal. I had had enough bullying from a guy who was a well known bully and they did nothing. When I took the fight to him I was suddenly the bad guy. Same years later when a guy pulled a knife on my brother to rob him . The guy made a mistake by letting himself get distracted and my brother wiped the floor with him. The same stupid principal acted like he was the problem,not the armed robber,even referring to me as ultra violent and my brother the same. The same fool went on to become a politician. We better be careful we don't end up like England. Where if a criminal attacks you and you fight back and hurt him you are the bad guy. You better just hope the bad guy doesn't hurt or kill you. What a pitiful,insipid,weak way to act.
Not long ago I got a U-lock with cable at a local bike shop. It mounted to the bike using a molded plastic mount. After a few weeks, the mount had developed a crack and broke and the the lock fell off the bike mid-ride. I was able to return the lock to the bike shop and exchanged it for a folding lock. I have to agree about the convenience of the folding lock. The only thing is that it rattles a bit in its mount while riding but other than that I really like it.
I solved the rattling issue but lining the holder with a thin piece of Ethafoam (the sheet foam usually found in furniture packaging). The material is super easy to cut to size, usually costs nothing.
@@jasonarthurs3885 Nice idea, I’ll see if I can find that or something like it.
I have mostly used the ulock and cable locks. I do agree part of the issue with locks is where to put them. I used to carry them on me either slung around or in a back pack. I added racks and baskets and keep them lashed to those. Much easier.
My chain is easy to transport - it just sits in the side pocket of one of the rear panniers. One of the great things about being a utility cycle user rather than a "cyclist" is that my old bike isn't worth much (yanked from a skip!) and has lots of carrying capacity.
I use an Asus rear wheel lock that is permanently attached to my frame. When I park my bike, I pull a lever, and it blocks the back wheel from moving. For extra security, the model frame lock I have includes a chain that locks into the lever, and a loop on the other end. I can loop that around a bike rack. Then I have another Asus chain lock like the one in the video. I usually use it to lock my front wheel to the rack.
Is three locks overkill? Probably. But that's the idea. Make my bike a huge pain in the ass to steal.
Asus ROG Strix Wheel Lock ($699)
@@linusmushroomtips776 I got that Asus Tuf Gaming lock ($659)
@@coconut7 Damn, you should have saved some money by going with the Asus Prime Wheel Lock ($549) or the Asus Phantom Wheel Lock ($399) as they're indistinguishable except for the lack of Fully Programmable Aura Sync® Compatible ARGB™
Ignoring that last item, the best thing about the frame-lock/plug-in-chain system is that is is very tidy. You put the noose around the frame, then just wrap the chain around your seat post or frame, and then plug it in. It makes it super easy to unwind, to go around a pole, then plug in.
And if you want to, you can just use the frame-lock for short stops at small stores.
There is no overkill with locks, as long as it looks to take more effort to steal your bike than the one next to yours, it's a win.
If you live in an area with theft at all, you really should be using two locks of different types (not cable locks...they're totally useless). Folding or chain plus a U-lock is usually a good combo. Usually spending 10% of the cost of the bike is a good rule of thumb.
If you carry a little triangle frame bag you can take the chain with you really easily.
But then your bag will be stolen.
@@ivandiaz5791 That never happened, I made sure it looks like crap by spraying mud on it all the time, the bag also kinda acts as a front fender.
Best way to carry a cable lock is to make a neat coil, put the small side through the coil, and then put it through the 2 thin metal bars underneath the seat and click it. No wrapping around the frame, fast and easy, mine doesnt bounce much at all. Very convenient.
ik at this point this video is a little older compared to your newer ones, but i've been watching some of your older videos and man has your presentation and quality gone up. Love to see. Keep up the damn good work!
The best place to stash the u-lock is on the rear rack. I usually only have one pannier on the left and my ulock hanging on the right. I keep a bungee cord on there to keep it from bouncing around.
For me I use a cloth covered chain lock on all my bikes. Very quick to lock and unlock, just long enough to lock my front wheel and frame to a bike rack, and very easy to wrap around my seat post, when I'm riding my bike.
My lock is so easy to use, I am usually unlocked and gone, long before most other cyclists.
Does anyone sell a kevlar covered chain lock? And what is better, a key lock or a combination lock?
Great vid, thanks. As for transporting chain and cable locks, a bungee on the rear rack will do the job. I have a 3' chain lock, but that sucker weighs a pound per foot, and around here 3' isn't really long enough, so I use a cable lock. It deters opportunistic thieves, the most common kind, and I don't usually leave it that long. Also, every time I lock it, I understand that if a pro *really* wants my bike, he's going to get it, doesn't matter what lock is on it. Fortunately my bike, while awesome, isn't the latest and greatest, so pros won't be interested.
I take your point about chain locks being hard to transport because you can't get a good mount. On the flip side, of course, a D-lock is much harder to transport if you *don’t* have a matching mount fixed to your bike.
Personally my city bikes have always had a rack on the back, and that's where the chain lock goes. In a pinch, if I need the rack to transport something else and I don't have a bag, I can always hang the lock on the handlebars (or somewhere else, but I find the handlebars practical for a short trip because it’s so easy!)
PS: The traditional place for a cable lock is around the saddle post ;-)
If you have a small u-lock it actually fits into back pocket of jeans.
I used to ride with one of those "tactical" backpacks and found that an Abus Granit lock hooks through those MOLLE loops really well.
I rock two d-locks, small one for one wheel to frame, bigger one where I can usually get through the park, frame and other wheel.
I agree that the folding lock is the best compromise for day to day use with a moderately priced bike. The ease of carrying them on the frame is a definite winner,
Gotta add cafe/frame locks
I can only wish there were more bike racks available where I live.. Often I'm stuck locking to a tree or light post, and quite often sign posts (normally not easily just lifted up and over). And on some rare occasions, there's nothing to lock to so all I can do is lock my tires to my frame. So... I have a small circle lock that just does a tire to a frame, and a long cable lock. My bike is also electric, so.. I don't have much space on my frame to secure a lock to when not in use other than my top bar and a little area above the battery. So, it's a cable lock coiled around my top bar, and a small circular cable lock around my seat post through the frame till I also use it. I would use a chain lock, but it would need to be long and heavy to go around a tree...
You'd think of all places Florida would be the most bike friendly, but it's not really. There's not many sidewalks away from the cities, and there's not many good sidewalks in the cities.. There's also very few bike lanes, or bike trails... And... very few places have bike racks than you'd think. Most strip malls have no racks :( Most 7-11's have no bike racks. There's plenty of places, like a gas station I buy my smokes at, that literally have nothing and I'd need to walk blocks to the nearest something for a simple couple of moments purchase inside...
I have many friends down here who used to bike commute but quit because they've been hit by a car more than once and came to the conclusion that it's just too dangerous to bike often around here. I can't say I disagree with them either, but I can't afford a car where I live and work...
So... I think most of us are stuck with what works best for our lives as far as locks and most things are concerned. You can find and recommend the best anything, but often what's best is A. What's available and affordable to you and... B. What's most convenient/practical. Therefore, a video on "the best of classes" is often better than "what's best" for anyone.
I think we all know a solid bar of metal with the best locking mechanism is best. 99% of where I travel to won't allow for that. Also high on the list of what wont work for me is folding locks... Sorry, can't get around the light post and pillar at work and through my frame. A long chain link lock would be my best option, but it would need to be thick and long for that to work.. One day I'll prolly eventually have the spare cash for something like that, but until then... I'm stuck with a long Kryptonite cable with padlock. :(
Just paint the chain lock gold and every Hip Hop Guy will wear it around the neck.
Personally I love chain locks, I find them very safe and easy to use. Last few years however I've been using such an old bike that nobody would ever steal it so a cable lock is enough 😅
a dumpy bike with little resale value is the best deterrent. if you know how to work on bikes it can still be a good ride. i never lock mine, just wrap a padlocked curly cable around it and a stationary object and back through itself so it looks locked at a glance in case someone walking might be tempted by an unlocked bike to make their walk go faster . quick and easy, has worked for me so far
In here before it premieres and I'm excited to find out what your conclusion is. My money is on chain lock because well that's what I use and it's just as easy as a cable lock (which I used before), but way more secure and at the same time way more versatile than a U-lock so you dont have to look for a special place to attach it.
Love the versatility of a chain lock, but I personally find them difficult to transport sometimes, especially if they are heavy-duty.
@@Shifter_Cycling Yeah, I see your point. I have to add that I use one that's intergrated with my dutch backwheel lock so I can just quickly wrap it round my frame/seat post, plug it into the lock and go. It's a 5 second job to wrap it or unwrap it and after that so easy to attach to anything.
Even if they have cover, chain lock damaged my bike a lot. I unfortunately noticed it too late. It happened since I wrapped it around the bike frame.
@@Shifter_Cycling I've worn my wife's Kryptonite "Kryptolock" chain lock as a sash before - at 47" in total length it's easy enough.
@@woutervanr I use the same setup on my ebike as well, the regular lock is considered "good enough" for insurance. And the chain to attach it to something is useful, I do recognise that only having to deal with one cylinder is a bit of a vulnerability. Ideally to get the most out of a chain lock and regular lock you'd want a thief to have to deal with two actual locks (not just one cylinder and both are released). I see the specific model of AXA lock around a lot on similar pricy ebikes, so that might make it interesting enough for certain people to learn how to pick it quickly.
But I am already somewhat sloppy at not bothering to use this convenient chain lock, outside the city near the entrance of stores when there are always people present I typically don't bother. If it's at a less busy/visible place for a longer period or the more sketchy areas in the city then I do use it.
I've been using a U-lock with a cable for a while now, and I find that it's really not too bad after you get used to locking and unlocking your bike. I no longer use the little velcro strap, and just sort of weave/loop the cable through the lock. It now takes significantly less time to undo the cable to lock my bike, and then get it done back up after I unlock it. I also appreciate the added versatility of the cable. There have been multiple situations where my U-lock couldn't reach the rack, but the cable could.
Great insight. Thanks for sharing.
In Seattle where people only seem to really steal stuff that's not bolted to the bike and aggressive theft of the whole bike seems uncommon, I went with a foldylock and $6/month bike insurance. I've never had a problem apart from a thief just ripping my zip tied pannier right off the frame (tore the pannier before the zip ties went) and I never leave my bike unattended overnight.
I agree that the convenience of the foldylock is just unparalleled. Particularly paired with bad (and sometimes no) bike racks, they're able to get around trees and posts when you need to, which is a situation I run into a LOT.
Also use an allen key titanium front axle and a belt drive system makes the rear all but impossible to remove.
But even then, insurance is just nice to have. I pay about $70 a year for insurance that covers complete replacement.
Never make fun of someone for mispronouncing words -- it means they learned them from reading.
That said I'm having real difficulty letting "cave-eat" go.... :)
I quite like the Dutch bike approach.
1 the bike itself has a built in lock you can engage in seconds. Good enough to prevent it from being ridden away, but not good enough to prevent it from being tossed in a truck. You can use it to run into a store for a minute, or whatever.
2 - a chain that you run through both wheels and a locking location. Good enough for most purposes.
You can wrap the heavy chain pretty easily around the front fork and ignore it when riding about. Fewer issues that I've ever had with bike lock mounts provided by manufacturers.
So called Cafe locks (also called integrated frame locks or dutch lock) are brilliant invention, not very popular apart from some countries in Europe. My family is using them for many years and they are one of the best. Easy to use, small and always attached to bike. They need extra chain or another lock to attach to bike stand but even on their own are very useful.
Also LockPickingLawyer has got some good bike lock reviews. Including picking and destruction. Well worth watching his videos! He uses Kryptonite chain lock.
I Danish family moved into my 'hood years ago and used their wheel locks (or frame locks, as you call them) on their bikes exactly once until they were stolen. I'm afraid in cities like mine, where pickup trucks are ubiquitous, stealing a bike by throwing it into the back of a truck even if the wheel is locked is all-too easy.
The weakness of a Dutch lock is that the bike can still be picked up and carried away, or tossed in the back of a truck. Once that happens, the thief can work on the lock itself at their leisure, with no worries about being interrupted.
@@Shifter_Cycling Agree. That's why Abus for example offers them with a slot for detachable chain used for locking bike to the stand.
Depending on circumstances would use it alone or in combination with another lock like chain or Ulock.
The advantage of Dutch lock is that it is always there, no fuss with storing etc. It is just another layer of defense against thieves.
@@Shifter_Cycling One more thought on the subject. How about having bike that can be taken with you to office or stored easily in small apartments like Brompton, Tern BYB, GoCycle? That's for of theft protection as well.
@@Shifter_Cycling Without the plug-in chain, they are useful for short trips to the diary, or to put outside the glass of a subway. Nothing more. And that is incredibly useful, because most trips are like that.
With the chain, it is good for moderate security. If I'm going to the movies I take my expensive Abus u-lock, and use that with the frame-lock. Tho there no point using the chain when I could also just use the u-lock...
Also chain or u-lock, it offers added flexibility. And that is very important for choosing the right convience for the situation.
Your research is flawed - I looked over your spreadsheet. There is a *huge* difference between a 16 mm and even a 12 mm chain or U-lock. Even bigger difference between a 17 mm chain (on the spreadsheet) and a 6 mm chain (what you considered an appropriate substitute). A 17 mm chain is an expensive stationary lock, and it is extremely secure. A 6 mm chain is only slightly better than a cable lock, is portable, and is useless for anything but accessories or your front wheel.
Yah. First thing I noticed was the d lock not being used correctly. But darn I ride a woman's bike and it won't store on the frame but still it's comforting to know my rear quick release wheel is safe.
I’m an abus folding lock guy. Bikes have been stolen around mine but not mine.
What model do you have?
I have on my bike 2 x U Lock's, a Loop which is permanently threaded through my quick release seat (I've seen seat's only stolen from pretty ordinary bikes - possibly just by some hooligans with a sense of humour? 😳) and a combination cable lock.
95%+ of the time I just use one U-Lock in area's I feel pretty secure in like around my local small town.
If I go to a much bigger town with a not so bike safe reputation then I will make a point of using them all.
I realise that if someone REALLY wants my bike and is an experienced or professional thief then nothing I use will stop them, particularly the cable lock and loop.
But it will certainly deter them or encourage them to take the other guys bike instead.
I have seen regularly in bigger towns either single wheels remaining locked in bike racks or the wheels gone and the rest of the frame remaining.
Quick release on a bicycle used regularly about towns or cities are probably more of a security pain in the ass as they are a benefit in other ways.
I never considered carrying these locks and cable's as a major inconvenience. They're really a necessity.
I wrap the cable lock around the crossbar. The loop is permanently threaded through the seat and wrapped around the seat post.
And the 2 U-Locks are locked around the seat post with the heavy locks resting on the carrier behind.
I use a D lock because it's the most secure and a cable lock just to lock my wheels as a deterrent not to steal a wheel.
I wound my chain lock around my seat post when not in use. To use I would unwind a length, then run it through the back wheel (and frame rear triangle) the around a post or rack if available. This leaves all of the frame's main triangle for other things like bottle cages, frame bags, etc. This was very convenient, quick and easy.
You could look for a frame lock, which is attached to the frame and locks the rear wheel between the spokes.
Some frame locks has the ability to also plug-in a chain or cable.
I keep my chain lock wrapped around my seatpost. Nice and close to my rear wheel/triangle, which is what I loop it through when locking. If I ever take a trip to a bigger city where I feel like I need it, I have a cable that I loop through my front wheel, but I don't find that necessary where I live.
I pity the fool who don't ride with their chain lock.
Nice video.thank you.
I use a a heavy U-lock as my main and a folding lock as my secondary. U-lock for the back wheel to rack, folding locks front wheel to frame and then rack if possible.
The research is right: Don't get a cable lock. mine got cut the first day I used it in public. never happened to me with other types of locks (chains/u-lock)
Sorry to hear this. That's the worst.
Big fan of the AXA defender integrated "cafe" lock.
I use a Kryptonite New York Standard. I used to use the Kryptonite bracket to carry it, but unfortunately mine gradually came loose and it's not really possible to tighten it. Kryptonite know that people want the lock to be great, so I think the bracket is an afterthought. However! I'm happy to have found that Zefal Doodad universal bike pump straps are a cheap and secure way to carry a heavy U-lock inside your frame! This is a good solution for me.
I use this lock but have it strapped to my pannier rack when not in use. That works perfectly.
Great solution. Thanks for sahring.
@@krob9145 What do you use to strap it?
@@Shifter_Cycling I made one of those velcro ties straps.
Not a bike lock video. . I lock my bike which cost me one hundred dollars . A bike over 300 dollars you can expect it to be stolen. They even steel the 100 dollar Walmart bike if I didn't urban stealth it . That is. The shifter broken one V brake is inoperable rusty sprocket and chain generally crapoy appearance. Best security is that there are few or none walkers or bicyclist in the area
Proper U-locking technique: Put the U through the immovable object and then through your rear wheel in the frame triangle, loop the cable through the front wheel and onto an end of the U, shackle on, turn key.
I've never had a problem wrapping chain locks around the frame, though I'll say double sided velcro helps a ton in keeping them from rattling. I'm a bit disappointed that there were no alarmed locks used in this video as they're the best deterrent in my opinion.
My locking system is tiered depending on where I am (how dangerous the place is generally) and how long I'll be away from the bike. Level 1 is a simple cable lock (safe neighbourhood /
I've been using a chain lock the same way for over 3 years now. Though I've recently revealed that it managed to erase a little paint off my bike somehow XD
Does an alarmed lock really be the best deterrent? from personal experience when the same car/ scooter/ moped with an alarm goes off for the umpteenth time in a week, or god forbid on a daily occurence, people start ignoring it.
A U-lock can be easily, cheaply, and securely to the bike frame with 3 thick straps of velcro. Voile straps are also strong and handy for securing locks to a bike frame.
When I don't have a bag, I just hang the thing on my handlebars, it might rattle around a little on a rough road, but it doesn't generally move around much or interfere with anything.
U lock and cable in me backpack, I live in Los Angeles so I never forget to lock it. 🤣
Here in Raleigh North Carolina it's not uncommon to see bikes locked up missing the front wheels whether the bike has quick release or not. I have no idea why they just steal the wheels but in Raleigh they'll steal anything that's not nailed down I've even seen empty cans get stolen.
Before I die I want to be happy. Such a grim thing for a child to write.
Which Folding lock are you using in the video for several years?
i dknt know what goes in there in europe or somewhere but in India our older bikes used to have a inbuilt looes which were literally unbreakable. They are called Mark-1 bike locks and they well made of steel/alluminiumattacked under your seat and locks your rear wheel. just have to rotate your key to unlock/lock no adjustments it was fixed. If you try to cut it with a badder saw you would cut the tyre/frame
just read 9ther comments yes it is exactly the "Dutch Lock" 🥲
IMO, if you're going to be cheap and only buy a cable lock, save your money and just used a piece of rope and tie a knot in it when you leave your bike. Equally effective (i.e. not at all) and cheaper. When I worked at a bike shop it was so frustrating when someone bought a nice $1000+ commuter bike and then cheap out on the lock (we even gave a discount on accessories when you bought a bike).
a dumpy bike with little resale value is the best deterrent.
Don't you guys have wheel locks that are fixed to the frame of the bike? Because those are by far the most convenient.
Is no one gonna talk about the guy who waves in the back at 1:18? Hahaha otherwise, really informative video!
Have you thought of an alarm lock
Love your take on urban cycling and your content. Also, regarding the chain lock around your neck... Flava Flav may want to have a word with you...
Hey Tom 👋 from Glasgow Scotland. Do you have a video on panniers ?
I only use cable locks on my cheap winter bike which also is my grocery bike . I only use u-locks on my more expensive bikes .
Am I the only one who read the "Before I Die I want to not have an adult child living in my basement" written on the wall at the beginning?
That's Hilarious!~
Carbon fiber or an old Huffy? Which would you steal? Beater bikes help against thievery.
Awesome video!! I was actually looking for bike locks today coincidentally :) I really appreciate your advice and your google doc!
Hope it helps!
The problem with the Kryptonite U-locks is that the mount sucks. If you've got the New York one, which is pretty heavy, it'll come loose after every few bumps. In fact I've started carrying it on the rear rack and hold it down with bungee cords. But I'd expect a better mount from Kryptonite for the price you pay for those locks.
Thanks for sharing.
When I was doing research at a university library, I simply left a heavy chain and lock there. It beat carrying it back and forth each day. Best of all was when I worked at a hospital. It provided a fenced in area with a camera moitoring the entrance. All bikers needed to do was ask for a key.
Another good video!
I live in a country with high crime rates (3rd highest in the world, theft of personal property being most common form of theft)😓. People are regularly mugged on the streets for their phones, I've even had runner friends having to hand over their running shoes in street muggings😳.
There are two rules about bike security I'd share. First, spend at least 10% of bike value on security. Second, when it comes to locks use multiple.
For QUICK stops to a cafe I use a standard cable lock as it is both the most convenient and easy to use (but with that comes most risk). I often cycle alone so I don't have a buddy to watch my bike when I go into a shop. But my full bike security looks like this: cable lock, D lock and cable, folding lock, rotor locks (f+r), bike alarm and GPS tracking. (10% of bike value). I don't have a chain because I never leave my bike unattended for extended periods of time. I suppose if I were regularly stopping at a specific bike stand I would just chain the stand and leave the chain there for everyday use🤷♀️
Buy once, cry once! You can always move your security every time you upgrade your bike.
08:17
Most rappers: and i took that personally
The folding locks are most convenient for me, including storing on the frame easily. But it is medium security at best, so use accordingly. I only use mine on short trips, where I'm usually within visual distance of the bike. For anywhere longer or less secure I add a beefy ulock, and that doubles the tools and time a thief needs. But sadly I follow the low profile bike usage, the fancy bikes stay at home indoors always and my utility bike is my main ride. It looks junky and not super valuable, I consider having a bike look dingy urban camo. Also The Lockpicking Lawyer channel here on YT is informative if not a bit unnerving. But his advise as a biker is the same and only lock up expendable bikes, and on his junker he uses a kryponite chain.
Right! Safety and than Thief (especially ebikes) are too main reason why more people don't bike. The other is repair.
I have had my bike stolen once and I was using a U lock with a cable, supposedly secure. Since then I haven't bothered with heavy or inconvinient locks like that, I use a short cable lock that lives wrapped around my top tube. I try to lock my bike up in places where a thief would likely be caught on camera or somewhere that has a constant flow of foot traffic so that someone stealing my bike might be noticed. I also will only leave it in one spot for about an hour. If I need to lock up my bike for longer I will go to a secure storage shed of some kind. I see a lock as simply preventing a passerby from running away with my bike
The best way to lock a bike with a U-lock is to lock the rear wheel through the triangle of the seat tube, the seat stays and the chain stays. This allows the most flexibility. If it is possible you can put the lock through both the seat tube and the rear wheel. The front wheel can be secured by removing it and locking with the U-lock along with the rear wheel. Another option would be to use a cable to secure the front wheel with the U-lock. I use the cable to secure my front wheel so I don't have to deal with removing and replacing the front wheel.
In reality, no lock is any use against a determined thief - so you're preventing an opportunist someone from just walking off with your bike - which means the lightest, easiest to use lock is best. Any old light thing that locks. I favour a plastic coated, short (12") snap shut cable lock. I could, with a quiet cordless grinder & a Stainless steel grade cutting disc, , cut it in seconds - same goes for EVERY lock - no matter the price point. So just pick the lightest/easiest one you will use because it's easy/light. No bike lock on earth works against a determined thief - remember that - so pick the easiest to use that suits you - and don't get invested in "The Bike" - buy a bike you can lose without caring, go buy another - ride on. Bikes get nicked - don't let it eat you up, it's only Life - get another, don't care too much about it either.
Show me the worlds most expensive bike lock - I'll show you how to cut it in 10 seconds - so forget "Quality" & buy "convenience". And buy a "P.O.S" bike that you like riding - nobody will want to nick it. I ride a pretty cheap "girls" bike - I think if I asked a thief to nick it, they'd pass - but it rides great - tell no-one.
Just a technical video tip_ when discussing a new product and how to use it, use close up shots . This will help your audience see exactly what your doing in better detail .cheers.
I also use the folding lock. It is the most universal - almost as easy to set up and transport like cable lock, lighter than U-lock or chain, gives a similar level of security as average quality chain, it's much more flexible then U-lock and is always at a bike. Not the best on any of these catgories but it's the best on avarage.
I use a light combination chain lock and wrap it on the top tube of the bike. If the pole is thin like a parking sign pole, then I will only partially unwrap it and secure it on the pole, otherwise unwrap and then rewrap the lock against the immovable object. The combination lock is convenient because you don’t have to even carry keys, lock on the bike, the key absent is great to making riding access, maybe at the expense of security as a cryptographer can easily crack a 4 digit password, xD. But Tom made a point to not ride a very expensive bike. I have a 2nd hand road bike with down tube shifters that maybe more than a decade ago, hopefully that won’t get stolen. Any reply about my setup will be appreciated.
Combination locks do add an element of convenience, as long as you trust your memory 🤣
@@Shifter_Cycling Can confirm; took my folding bike (with folding lock) out for the first time in months a little while ago and discovered after doing some shopping the combo on it was not at all what I thought it was...
Fortunately I got lucky and something jogged my memory after about 15 minutes of fumbling about.
Just getting back into biking after a lot of falce starts, mostly down to being very short . I need short cranks, even with a XXS size bike the best i was offered was 165mm cranks which was still to long . Recently found a small 13" trek mtb along with an old rigid specialized fork and a crankset of 140mm from a folding bike . It's coming together as a cheap hack do it all everyday bike that no one wants to steal, hopefully? With that in mind i don't want a lock that costs 3x the cost of the bike ,or weight half the weight of the bike , my solution is thin stainless wire and a cheap padlock. My thinking is convenience, low weight. Yes the security will be low . However living in a low risk area most theft is opportunity theft . Thieves are generally opportunists, unless they are running around with bolt cutters or angle grinders, even the cheapest lock solutions will work ? I might have to eat my words ? But that's my plan at the very least Thieves will need at least a good set of pliers?
I always take my bike with me on public transport, buses have front racks, train/trolley has space inside for bikes. But one day I was to meet my Sister in San Diego and I thought the express bus didn't allow bikes (I was wrong), so I locked my bike for the day to bike rack in front of the ticket office that had cameras which was about 10 feet away. So bike wasn't stolen, but it did get majorly vandalized. So depressing, had to carry it home. Police took report, I'm sure nothing was done.
I saw bike lockers at the Tyson Corner Va subway stop and at the Capitol Hill subway stop in WASHINGTON DC. They didn't look like they were maintained. . They must have a short life span. One or two years at the most
@@robertbrawley5048 There's some heavy duty looking ones at the Branch Avenue station I saw - looks like they'd be a tight fit though.
That's a problem with an exoensive bike. If they can't steal it they can sure vandalize it. I live in Gainesville Va home owners consider it upscale area . Not Tony but I might be the only one that rides a bicycle for transportation meaning the incentive to swipe a bike is more trouble than its worth. Never the less if my bicycle is stolen it would be a sad state of affairs to walk back home . Whether 2 hundred yards or 1 and a half miles. I price a bicycle in the unlikely case it is stolen at the replacement cost. . I presently use a cheap ass cable lock . The bike is poorly maintain and looks like fecal matter on purpose its stuck permanently in lowest gear
@@ME-hm7zm ha ha funny. I wouldn't of thought any one reading my comment would have the slightest idea the locations I was talking about . But you are way ahead of me cheers
@@robertbrawley5048 $600 for bike from REI, not sure if that counts as "expensive". It was for me, but I still have it and put 20+thousand miles on it over the years as my main transport. So worth the cost.
You should check your locks with the LOCK PICKING LAWYER
Cut a length of inner tube, insert a length of chain, padlock, wrap it around seat post for storage. Done. A Glock works too! :D
U-lock frame storage attachments don't work on step through frames, right?
You don't use u-locks on the top bar, you're supposed to use it on the seat stay going trought the bike triangle, rear triangle and the back wheel. All bikes that have a read triangle, including step trough frames, can use a u-lock.
@@PaulSpades I mean the attachment to store it on the bike (one of the conveniences the video mentioned). I updated the comment above to make it clearer
Went for option 5 myself, Dutch frame lock with plug-in chain. Meets the requirements for bike insurance, extremely easy. Can't be accidentally left at home.
I wrap my chain around the top and down tube behind the head tube. As the frame opens up it prevents the chain from sliding down.
Thank you for this. I will try this.
There is absolutely nothing better than the dutch style wheel + chain lock when it comes to convenience.
Get a folding bike and take it with you. Dahon Vybe 7. That's all you need. Love and peace.
By far the most convenient lock I have is an ABUS adaptor chain. It's like that chain lock, but instead of having its own lock, it plugs into an ABUS frame lock. Because of how they designed the plug mechanism, it can be locked without any fumbling with keys. When I'm not using it, I just throw it into my basket
That's what I use, different brand but same thing.
Thanks for sharing. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm intrigued.
Thought those were pretty slick; thought about getting one of those for my next bike.
This is actually the best urban lock. You can change how secure you want it with the chain and if you just want to quickly stop at a shop you're done with locking up in fractions of a second
That's pretty much what I have (except some version by AXA), if you use the lock a lot keeping it in your basket makes sense. I prefer to keep my panniers empty and wrap it around the saddle stem instead. That way uhh they can't steal my chain when I just use the frame lock but I often park my bicycle at places where I don't strictly need to use it (at home, at my parents, outside a shop entrance with a busy flow of people, etc). The chain gets used if I park in the city or out of sight outdoors for an extended period of time elsewhere.
The only real downside to it in my opinion is that it just has one cylinder for both locks, two independent locks for a thief to deal with would be harder. But it can't be beaten for convenience while getting a fairly solid way of locking up the bike.
Anyone else buy insurance on your bike only? Never thought I would but for $10 a month I have my Kona covered. My home owners deductive is higher than what the bike is worth
I'm considering it for my daily commute E-bike. Comes out to $100 a year for my ride with a $200 deductible if stolen.
Great point. I'm going to look into this.
Thanks for your video! Perhaps it's overkill (it's Toronto afterall), but I use all of the locks you'd mentioned except for the folding one: 3 U-locks (one of which secures front wheel to frame) used with 2 looping cables; 1 cable lock that threads through the saddle, pannier rack and post; and 1 chain lock to reinforce as needed. As per your other video, luckily there's a police registry for bikes in Toronto. That was a good video, too, so ta for that 👍
Three U-locks!? Sorry you need to do this to keep your bike safe, but kudos for putting in the work.
This sounds like hell hajabahaga