My upgrades for the AX24(aka The Smurf): E-Max servos front and rear w/aluminum horns, Injora 50t motor, carbon fiber chassis, brass skid plate, brass steering knuckles(front only), brass diff covers front and rear, aluminum steering links front and rear, Amazon special tires(work awesome) mounted on Injora wheels(off another build), brass hex extensions at all 4 corners, stock leanth upgraded shocks(nothing fansy more for looks and they are aluminum) and some hight clearance links(off of another build). All and all, maybe $150 in upgrades( Amazon has great prices on stuff). There are no issues with binding up or power loss. Crawlers great and is far better than stock configuration. But yes, the ESC does need some attention. I would upgrade and most likely will in the future. Just have to figure out how to fit a separate ESC and receiver into this tiny package. Hope this helps some people. I love the AX24 and once it's figured out, it's a great rig to drive.
I'm new to the 1/24 scale and I'm a cheap bastard. I pulled the shock springs and changed the back body mount to a front to clear the new servos and squat down. New wheels , hub extensions and a bec. For me the most annoying thing is the torque twist. Very helpful thanks.
Just got one for my son and have been wondering what to do first to improve it. These were helpful ideas. On my Bronco a little bit of weight made a massive difference and it seems to be the consensus here. Thanks
I built a Redcat Rockslide RS10 XT. I used the stock beadlock rims but went with Hot Body Rovers, best crawler tires imo. I used sticky wheel weights and had 2 lbs up front and 1 in the rear. I used stronger servos, which caused me to have to upgrade my batter too cause it did the same thing and took power away from the ESC. I think the only other thing I did was change out the shocks and springs to softer and went to bent links instead of the straight ones. I let my friend enter into a crawler comp and he took 1st place and that was his first time ever driving it. You can see some of it @ darklown14 here on UA-cam. Its best setup is where it's climbing up and over the stump. I plan on building another one soon.
i purchased the AX24 for the purpose of converting my C10 to 4ws with one stop shopping and an extra rig to boot. So I now have the AX24 set up with the C10/AX4 radio/receiver and 2ws from the C10. The slow crawl is awesome with the stock motor. Also the stock AX24/SLT3 radio/receiver also has a great slow crawl in the C10 with the Injora 050 red motor. The other few modifications I did to the AX24 are brass wheel weights, shorter shock springs pulled over the ends for lcg,, and white plastic servo horn I had 'in--stock' as well as lowering the body mounts a bit. It still turtles often, but way better than stock. I enjoy your content.
ok.....ill admit, im not a diehard rc guy. But, i bought an AX24 a couple of weeks ago and i like it. ive got so many questions and a few problems. Two days ago i bought a bunch of upgrades to play around with it after watching your videos and ill say the number one upgrade has to be the tool kit you recomended !! hahaha i haven't recieved it yet and did ALL the upgrades with one of those little allen wrenches that comes with it !!! Anyway...... this is what i did so you can get a picture of where im at. I swapped out the chassis for the carbon fiber, swapped out the lower link bars for aluminum ones, swapped out the skidplate for a brass one (but i think its lower quality, stripped out all four long bolts !!), brass knuckles, e-maz servos and aluminum horn and linkage, wheel extenders, brass diff covers.....and i bought new wheels and tires, but im waiting till that damn tool kit comes in today before i spin those beadlocks together !! hahaha i ran into some problems. The new skid plate seemed like it wasnt drilled and tapped deep enough and my screws bottomed out. that sucks. my shocks dont seem to be smooth anymore, they are acting like they're binding. my body seems to be hitting servos and horns now. the servos seem to be bottoming out now. and.....ive lost articulation. oh....and now, like you, my ESC seems to be week. i was about to buy a Furitek brushless setup, but im not sure what to by.....deffinately could use some help here ! and i guess im wondering if i can keep using my stock transmitter (i like the rear steer controls), and the new Furitek together.... PS.....this is the first time ive commented and asked questions on a youtube video so im not sure how ill know if you answer....lol so, if ya want some contact info thats cool too.
You threw the kitchen sink at that thing, I like it! Losing articulation and binding shocks could be due to your linkage being too tight. Try removing one o-ring from the linkage mounting positions and see if that frees up your articulation. Your hardware kit should come with new screws that hopefully allows you to adequately tighten your skid. Did you get the Axial skid plate or an aftermarket? The body hitting the servos is a byproduct of bigger servos. Those emax's are longer than stock and will stick out on both ends. You can try an aftermarket servo tray to get those back closer to stock position (amzn.to/3ppBDBP). The furitek stinger kit is a great option and it is compatible with the stock radio and receiver. Feel free to email me with any questions!
Thanks for doing this video. I really like the AX24 and think it's a fun little crawler, but it definitely needs some help. I've installed a front servo and aluminum linkage with brass steering knuckles and it's helped a bunch. Next up is wheels and tires I think.... and maybe a new ESC and motor.
Nice review. Personally I prefer when you do them on physical rocks. Not being rude in anyway but that indoor foam you and others use to build courses is not crawling. It doesn’t have the same bites that rock will so you can’t base purchases off running on spray foam and pink foam boards. Real world like you’ve said a few times in this video is “Rock” .
I dumped alot of cash into mine. I think a furitek lizard pro esc and motor you used and tires and wheels would put you over your budget a bit. The lizard oro can do both brushed and brushles witch would remove the jumpyness.
Yeah love my four point scale and my set up table but it does need taller stops to hold her Rig’s on the set up table, When you’re doing the vertical up
Yeah that’s what I really loved about my AX 24 is the rear steering but then mine just up and quit working no rear steering have even been outside with it yet haven’t tinkered with it yet we did plug another servo into the ESC and it is a working servo and it didn’t work so it might be my radio
I like the ax24 find a pretty good with just a mofo 50 little bit of grass in the front end and I limited the shocks switch Wheels tires and see it but now I'm building out for my son and I'm going to put it on a Slayer chassis from Texhoma RC
I’m thinking I might get one of these in the future. I’ve got the mini itch again. But I’d have to swap the wheels and body for sure. It just looks to much like a Walmart special stock.
Put the springs back on and reduce the flex by limiting the shocks. For some reason with these little guys everyone thinks you need mega flex. This causes more slop, twisting, and unloading. Next, look at your links, they are probably setup poor from factory. Your trying to fix COG and side hill issues with just adding weight in the wheels. Some weight in the wheels is good, but that's not the answer for everything. See what wiring, decasing, and rearranging of the electronics can be done to reduce COG and it would be free. Adjusting your upper links at the chassis can drastically change how it handles on vertical and side hill because link geometry is very important. Most of the things I have mentioned are free and actually make it lighter.
I know this is an old video and you probably have went all out and went brushless with the budget build but i would replace the electronics with FMS electronics totally smoothed out my scx24 and it is not a light machine.
I believe there was or is a bad batch of those ramp crabs. at the comp last month a guy had them and they were not good, also for budget the emax cant be beat for stock electronics its perfect. if your gunna upgrade the electronics then you can go with the eco power. I used bronco links to stretch mine a tad but had to use the stock uppers for the front and the front uppers from the hop up on the rear upper. cut a slightly longer rear drive shaft and off to the races. running the Furiek Chamaeleon carbon burshed motor and am still on the fence about it, got the treal green servo 4 link mounts for 14 each and the links i got coming are brass 13.99, servos 14.99, added plus 4 axles i had laying around and the weights along with the scramblers i had laying around, fun lil build green lights are next for mine.
I'm betting the problem with the power loss is due to the cheap hex extensions binding against the hubs. Try loosening the wheel nuts. I was also NOT a fan of the mofoTB30. I replaced mine with an Injora 66t 050 series, MUCH better. I would put under drive gears and a 10t pinion on it before new wheels and tires. The rock lizards are actually very very decent tires.
That could be, although I had the same issue with my fully built AX24 and I ran all premium parts on that one. I tore it down to nuts and bolts and tried so many combinations of axles, hexes, wheels, etc. and could not resolve the binding
@@CapeCrawlers I'm not experiencing any of what you talked about with my super class ax24 build. now... i did notice a TON of CV joint 'dogbone' binding when I installed samix knuckles for my weight hangers.... you might want to see if that's what's causing the problem.
How can I get a competition crawler I'm new to the hobby and have never built one but have always wanted one watching other people have them and what they can do I don't know if I can put one of the kits together and get them running
In my opinion with the axial mini crawlers its the weight added on the truck that starts to take its toll on the esc. The way I see it the esc isn’t meant to handle “much” more then the stock truck itself which is pretty dinky. The esc isn’t underpowered it’s just not so overpowered to where it can handle all of the extra weight. That’s why you don’t see much of a difference on other rigs when you add weight like the trx4m or the fcx24. Their escs are more overpowered for what the truck needs in its base form
Well within the expected use of a 1/24 crawler engineers would be insane to think everybody’s gonna leave them stock. So I think it’s fair to consider it underpowered. The v2 esc seems to have way more control. Only con is brushless setups take more.
Stock that AX24 is pretty capable, honestly without an upgrade to the electronics I probably wouldn’t bother. I still haven’t ordered my AX24 (it’s in my cart). I’d like to see stock vs electronic upgrade vs $100 mods vs full blown upgrades…
The vertical and side test are completely off because when crawling surface is not flat and it’s also moving completely different so I really don’t take that into account but it’s a good idea and gives you a rough idea of what it’s capable of, please don’t take this as hate or bad criticism just my thoughts
Thats why I always do both tests: table top and actual crawling. I learned very quickly that strong numbers on the setup table don't always correlate with real world performance.
Great video as usual. I'm still not sold on the ax24 and I think the scx24 is still better. My favorite is still the trx4m though, thoughts on traxxas aside that's still the best out of the box mini crawler.
My first mods were injora 47 gram wheels with the 64 mm rock tires, along with removing all four shocks and installing a torque beast 50, the motor mostly smoothed out the jumpyness, However did not fix it.
I don't have one but is it possible to reconfigure the ESC battery or lighten them, also maybe put the front springs back on (Texoma style) to help stop the launch on steep inclines
What size is the original tire on the ax24. I’m trying to find some bigger tires and want to know what size tire is bigger than the original tire on this beast!!!
The biggest thing I see is when you had it on the tray and your measuring I think it's front-to-back and he said didn't get too much of a game cuz it just kind of like fell off that's aluminum strap would take care of all of that I would stop it from flopping back so fast I think they make a cheap brushed ESC that plugs in with yours and it's only like 20bucks I forgot who makes it
My plane scx24 deadbolt I put the I think they were aluminum high lift links with the stock motor I put the brass knuckles on it to along with the aluminum steering arm is a whole kit thing kinda like you got . Just without the diff covers I thought I said aftermarket shocks on it. But that stock servo and motor just wouldn't handle it the server broke first but I put an aftermarket 50/50 motor and trans kit in it first I Friday injora 50/50 the purple motor and I couldn't get it to work I guess I just got a bad unit. 😊 Sodolaks when I went to was adderal I got it off Amazon it was 30 bucks for the motor and trans together aluminum case all metal gears with a brass motor pinion gear when I did that I had a problem with it not wanting to crawl slow I had to either go fast or they wouldn't crawl slow. I change the main gear on the transmission for the plastic original out of the original transmission didn't make a difference. I was wondering what you would think it would be
Yes its the rollover king but with time and effort one can overcome that deficiency and become proficient with it as I have and I'm no expert RC driver. I no longer roll it over and can drive it almost as aggressively as my Axial C10 or SCX 24 (cheese bus) not for nothing the 1/24 Bronco is top heavy and is prone to roll overs too but again with practice one can overcome such minor issues, give yourself a chance and keep that money in your pocket LoL.
Just finished watching..the fact that they didn't put the v2 electronics is just a insult to my intelligence lol.. but a custom ax24 furitek build is on my list the angry sparrow is really growing on me
I’m actually not sure I ordered a pair of tires though not the rims yet cuz I was wondering on the size but maybe I thought they weren’t cuz the 1 inch rims aren’t and they fit other builds but I could be wrong lol
😂 "That's ok. We'll have a couple less energy drinks this week." Lies! Just be sure you're drinking the sugar free. This society is high on sugar and no one is talking about the effects. I'm considering this for my next 1/24. Not sure yet. Think I gotta upgrade my SCX24 first. I like the 4WS on this though. I just can't get over the non-road legal look. But I'll get over that I'm sure. I just have too much scale modeler in me...
You still don’t have a 4 corner scale.. Bro, do you even review? On a serious note: just like the real world, big tires needs lower gears. The Injora Underdrive seems like the most underutilized mod. 33% reduction in both axles for cheap, or combine with Mofo 20% gears up front.
slow down brother, you take you take your time advertising the products(which is ok) but then you fly thru installing them,which by the way is why i watched it in the first place
Timestamps
Baseline performance tests: 2:15
Baseline course runs: 4:03
Upgrades overview: 11:00
Installation, tips & tricks: 16:35
Upgraded AX24, first look: 19:22
Upgraded performance tests: 21:36
Upgraded course runs: 23:21
Final thoughts: 29:04
My upgrades for the AX24(aka The Smurf): E-Max servos front and rear w/aluminum horns, Injora 50t motor, carbon fiber chassis, brass skid plate, brass steering knuckles(front only), brass diff covers front and rear, aluminum steering links front and rear, Amazon special tires(work awesome) mounted on Injora wheels(off another build), brass hex extensions at all 4 corners, stock leanth upgraded shocks(nothing fansy more for looks and they are aluminum) and some hight clearance links(off of another build). All and all, maybe $150 in upgrades( Amazon has great prices on stuff). There are no issues with binding up or power loss. Crawlers great and is far better than stock configuration. But yes, the ESC does need some attention. I would upgrade and most likely will in the future. Just have to figure out how to fit a separate ESC and receiver into this tiny package. Hope this helps some people. I love the AX24 and once it's figured out, it's a great rig to drive.
I'm new to the 1/24 scale and I'm a cheap bastard. I pulled the shock springs and changed the back body mount to a front to clear the new servos and squat down. New wheels , hub extensions and a bec. For me the most annoying thing is the torque twist. Very helpful thanks.
Just got one for my son and have been wondering what to do first to improve it. These were helpful ideas. On my Bronco a little bit of weight made a massive difference and it seems to be the consensus here. Thanks
I'm glad it helped! Some brass in the right place goes a long way with this thing.
I built a Redcat Rockslide RS10 XT. I used the stock beadlock rims but went with Hot Body Rovers, best crawler tires imo. I used sticky wheel weights and had 2 lbs up front and 1 in the rear. I used stronger servos, which caused me to have to upgrade my batter too cause it did the same thing and took power away from the ESC. I think the only other thing I did was change out the shocks and springs to softer and went to bent links instead of the straight ones. I let my friend enter into a crawler comp and he took 1st place and that was his first time ever driving it. You can see some of it @ darklown14 here on UA-cam. Its best setup is where it's climbing up and over the stump. I plan on building another one soon.
i purchased the AX24 for the purpose of converting my C10 to 4ws with one stop shopping and an extra rig to boot. So I now have the AX24 set up with the C10/AX4 radio/receiver and 2ws from the C10. The slow crawl is awesome with the stock motor. Also the stock AX24/SLT3 radio/receiver also has a great slow crawl in the C10 with the Injora 050 red motor. The other few modifications I did to the AX24 are brass wheel weights, shorter shock springs pulled over the ends for lcg,, and white plastic servo horn I had 'in--stock' as well as lowering the body mounts a bit. It still turtles often, but way better than stock. I enjoy your content.
I like your frankebuild idea!
ok.....ill admit, im not a diehard rc guy. But, i bought an AX24 a couple of weeks ago and i like it. ive got so many questions and a few problems.
Two days ago i bought a bunch of upgrades to play around with it after watching your videos and ill say the number one upgrade has to be the tool kit you recomended !! hahaha i haven't recieved it yet and did ALL the upgrades with one of those little allen wrenches that comes with it !!!
Anyway...... this is what i did so you can get a picture of where im at.
I swapped out the chassis for the carbon fiber, swapped out the lower link bars for aluminum ones, swapped out the skidplate for a brass one (but i think its lower quality, stripped out all four long bolts !!), brass knuckles, e-maz servos and aluminum horn and linkage, wheel extenders, brass diff covers.....and i bought new wheels and tires, but im waiting till that damn tool kit comes in today before i spin those beadlocks together !! hahaha
i ran into some problems.
The new skid plate seemed like it wasnt drilled and tapped deep enough and my screws bottomed out. that sucks.
my shocks dont seem to be smooth anymore, they are acting like they're binding.
my body seems to be hitting servos and horns now.
the servos seem to be bottoming out now.
and.....ive lost articulation.
oh....and now, like you, my ESC seems to be week.
i was about to buy a Furitek brushless setup, but im not sure what to by.....deffinately could use some help here !
and i guess im wondering if i can keep using my stock transmitter (i like the rear steer controls), and the new Furitek together....
PS.....this is the first time ive commented and asked questions on a youtube video so im not sure how ill know if you answer....lol so, if ya want some contact info thats cool too.
You threw the kitchen sink at that thing, I like it! Losing articulation and binding shocks could be due to your linkage being too tight. Try removing one o-ring from the linkage mounting positions and see if that frees up your articulation. Your hardware kit should come with new screws that hopefully allows you to adequately tighten your skid. Did you get the Axial skid plate or an aftermarket? The body hitting the servos is a byproduct of bigger servos. Those emax's are longer than stock and will stick out on both ends. You can try an aftermarket servo tray to get those back closer to stock position (amzn.to/3ppBDBP). The furitek stinger kit is a great option and it is compatible with the stock radio and receiver. Feel free to email me with any questions!
Thanks for doing this video. I really like the AX24 and think it's a fun little crawler, but it definitely needs some help. I've installed a front servo and aluminum linkage with brass steering knuckles and it's helped a bunch. Next up is wheels and tires I think.... and maybe a new ESC and motor.
Thanks for watching!
Started my XC-1 build such a fun crawler.
Fairly new to RC crawlers and your channel but I’m really enjoying your videos!
I’m soooo excited to see what you do with the FCX24!!!
Me too. Love that thing.
I did the furitek upgrade and used stock esc.....also use injora rear servo and lgrp front servo...works just fine!
Adding the lizard from Furitek is a game changer!
@@CapeCrawlers you will have to skip energy drinks for about a month to do a furitek conversion, worth tho
Nice review. Personally I prefer when you do them on physical rocks. Not being rude in anyway but that indoor foam you and others use to build courses is not crawling. It doesn’t have the same bites that rock will so you can’t base purchases off running on spray foam and pink foam boards. Real world like you’ve said a few times in this video is “Rock” .
I dumped alot of cash into mine. I think a furitek lizard pro esc and motor you used and tires and wheels would put you over your budget a bit. The lizard oro can do both brushed and brushles witch would remove the jumpyness.
Thanks for this video I really like what your idea with shedding weight
Sweet build love you man
Yeah love my four point scale and my set up table but it does need taller stops to hold her Rig’s on the set up table, When you’re doing the vertical up
Really cool. I’ve had my AX24 for 2 weeks
Man look at you go bro 21 Thousand subscribers man like two and a half thousand using like 16 hours that is killer so proud man
Thank you! The goal is 50K by the end of the year!
Yeah that’s what I really loved about my AX 24 is the rear steering but then mine just up and quit working no rear steering have even been outside with it yet haven’t tinkered with it yet we did plug another servo into the ESC and it is a working servo and it didn’t work so it might be my radio
That's a bummer!
You can just put some weights in the tyre than its grip will also increase and lower it's center of gravity .
Another awesome video, thank you for stellar content as usual!
Thanks for watching!
I like to think of it like I’m really driving. A sensored brushless takes the fun out of driving.
I like the ax24 find a pretty good with just a mofo 50 little bit of grass in the front end and I limited the shocks switch Wheels tires and see it but now I'm building out for my son and I'm going to put it on a Slayer chassis from Texhoma RC
I'm going to swap in a 050 in this one. I may put shorter shocks on the front but we'll see. My son is having a lot of fun with it as is
Would of done the ESC over the servos and done aluminum steering links.
That's a very wise use of the budget and would make for a much more enjoyable rig
The wine from the esc is much better than not having one!
I’m thinking I might get one of these in the future. I’ve got the mini itch again. But I’d have to swap the wheels and body for sure. It just looks to much like a Walmart special stock.
Definitely toy looking. I've seen folks custom paint the bodies and it looks much better
Yeah the Servos was taking too much power
O50 motor , 1/12T 33% underdrive gears front and rear . And the ESC had the problems without the added weight.
I've got the underdrive gears in my tool box. I may try them next
Awesome video!, will deadbolt might have those bind issues as well if im upgrading to emax servo and the PRO motor by INJORA?
Thanks! No, the deadbolt does not have these same issues.
Put the springs back on and reduce the flex by limiting the shocks. For some reason with these little guys everyone thinks you need mega flex. This causes more slop, twisting, and unloading. Next, look at your links, they are probably setup poor from factory. Your trying to fix COG and side hill issues with just adding weight in the wheels. Some weight in the wheels is good, but that's not the answer for everything. See what wiring, decasing, and rearranging of the electronics can be done to reduce COG and it would be free. Adjusting your upper links at the chassis can drastically change how it handles on vertical and side hill because link geometry is very important. Most of the things I have mentioned are free and actually make it lighter.
Those tires are my favorite. Performed better than the 64mm Injoras by far.
They’re amazing tires!
I know this is an old video and you probably have went all out and went brushless with the budget build but i would replace the electronics with FMS electronics totally smoothed out my scx24 and it is not a light machine.
Love these vids man keep it up
I believe there was or is a bad batch of those ramp crabs. at the comp last month a guy had them and they were not good, also for budget the emax cant be beat for stock electronics its perfect. if your gunna upgrade the electronics then you can go with the eco power. I used bronco links to stretch mine a tad but had to use the stock uppers for the front and the front uppers from the hop up on the rear upper. cut a slightly longer rear drive shaft and off to the races. running the Furiek Chamaeleon carbon burshed motor and am still on the fence about it, got the treal green servo 4 link mounts for 14 each and the links i got coming are brass 13.99, servos 14.99, added plus 4 axles i had laying around and the weights along with the scramblers i had laying around, fun lil build green lights are next for mine.
You can make the lights green with a green sharpie 🤙
@@loriharton271 i wired my own green ones. looks great!!
I'm betting the problem with the power loss is due to the cheap hex extensions binding against the hubs. Try loosening the wheel nuts. I was also NOT a fan of the mofoTB30. I replaced mine with an Injora 66t 050 series, MUCH better. I would put under drive gears and a 10t pinion on it before new wheels and tires. The rock lizards are actually very very decent tires.
That could be, although I had the same issue with my fully built AX24 and I ran all premium parts on that one. I tore it down to nuts and bolts and tried so many combinations of axles, hexes, wheels, etc. and could not resolve the binding
@@CapeCrawlers I'm not experiencing any of what you talked about with my super class ax24 build. now... i did notice a TON of CV joint 'dogbone' binding when I installed samix knuckles for my weight hangers.... you might want to see if that's what's causing the problem.
How can I get a competition crawler I'm new to the hobby and have never built one but have always wanted one watching other people have them and what they can do I don't know if I can put one of the kits together and get them running
In my opinion with the axial mini crawlers its the weight added on the truck that starts to take its toll on the esc. The way I see it the esc isn’t meant to handle “much” more then the stock truck itself which is pretty dinky. The esc isn’t underpowered it’s just not so overpowered to where it can handle all of the extra weight. That’s why you don’t see much of a difference on other rigs when you add weight like the trx4m or the fcx24. Their escs are more overpowered for what the truck needs in its base form
Well within the expected use of a 1/24 crawler engineers would be insane to think everybody’s gonna leave them stock. So I think it’s fair to consider it underpowered. The v2 esc seems to have way more control. Only con is brushless setups take more.
I agree with that. I feel like this setup is particularly under powered, far more so than the V1 or V2 in the scx24.
Could we please have a full video of your fully upgraded ax24 and everything you have on it.
Yes! I’ve got even more going on it soon then I’ll recap it
@@CapeCrawlers Thanks
Stock that AX24 is pretty capable, honestly without an upgrade to the electronics I probably wouldn’t bother. I still haven’t ordered my AX24 (it’s in my cart). I’d like to see stock vs electronic upgrade vs $100 mods vs full blown upgrades…
I think I agree with you. Other than the wheels and tires I don’t think I would do anything unless I was committed to completely overhauling it
Was the esc binding due to all the extra weight and power? Would an upgraded esc fix that?
Yes, the esc upgrade immediately fixes it
Yeah gave us a high five on her way up, yeah we can hear the winding just think it sounds like horsepower yeah sounds good to me 😁😁👍👍😎
What is a better budget buy and build, the AX24 or the TRX4M
I personally would go with the Traxxas
Is that a magnetic mat that you are working on? What's the link for that?
Yea! It's the Cow RC mat: cowrc.com/pro-mag-small-mat/
I got the small one, but there are lots of sizes.
A dog's whistle hahaha ...hey now we need a shot of that rig with The Salute...on a tee shirt that be epic
It can do a heck of a wave with all that flex!
@@CapeCrawlers for sure.. paint a smiley face on the wheel lol
do you think the ESC would benefit from a external BEC?
I think it would. I'd like to see someone try it
Do I need to remove my stock servos before tightening or can I do it while they’re preinstalled?
Preinstalled is fine
The vertical and side test are completely off because when crawling surface is not flat and it’s also moving completely different so I really don’t take that into account but it’s a good idea and gives you a rough idea of what it’s capable of, please don’t take this as hate or bad criticism just my thoughts
Thats why I always do both tests: table top and actual crawling. I learned very quickly that strong numbers on the setup table don't always correlate with real world performance.
Great video as usual. I'm still not sold on the ax24 and I think the scx24 is still better. My favorite is still the trx4m though, thoughts on traxxas aside that's still the best out of the box mini crawler.
Ahh you gotta try the hobbyplus cr18p. But I do love a cr18p.
I'm right there with you, although the scx24 still has my vote for top choice. Out of the box the M is a monster though.
My friend has one and my ad-24 bronco crawler one but my is almost stock and his is built and my does stuff that he can’t
My first mods were injora 47 gram wheels with the 64 mm rock tires, along with removing all four shocks and installing a torque beast 50, the motor mostly smoothed out the jumpyness, However did not fix it.
I did the 50 size in mine. Should have done the same here.
@@CapeCrawlers yep, it just gives it that extra punch
What motor/esc would you get instead of servos and tires
I would get the new Furitek python and a Mofo RC torquebeast 050 and be done with it
Awesome build, brother.
Thanks!
@@CapeCrawlers that's automatic...Not standard...😁
Yeah that was a nice climb
Hot Racing has the link balls with the correct threads .
Love HR!
Nice job.
Do you have any problems with the nuts that hold on the hex extension? Do they stay tight on the axle?
Yes to the problems, no they do not stay on! I use blue locktite on them to keep them in place
Thanks
I don't have one but is it possible to reconfigure the ESC battery or lighten them, also maybe put the front springs back on (Texoma style) to help stop the launch on steep inclines
I thought about doing the spring mod. I think I'll give it a go
What size is the original tire on the ax24. I’m trying to find some bigger tires and want to know what size tire is bigger than the original tire on this beast!!!
They're ~60mm I believe
Do you have the Fms 1/18 Toyota Land Cruiser? I want to see you build one of those
I do not. I'd like to get my hands on one though
You just have to use machined screws the screws that’s going into the plastic the thread is different
Did you remove the springs from the shocks?
From the front yes
If I get one, imma make it a long ole boy with Gladiator rear links in the front & rear, just for something different. 🤔
That would go a long way to making it more stable!
@@CapeCrawlers most definitely.
The biggest thing I see is when you had it on the tray and your measuring I think it's front-to-back and he said didn't get too much of a game cuz it just kind of like fell off that's aluminum strap would take care of all of that I would stop it from flopping back so fast I think they make a cheap brushed ESC that plugs in with yours and it's only like 20bucks I forgot who makes it
My plane scx24 deadbolt I put the I think they were aluminum high lift links with the stock motor I put the brass knuckles on it to along with the aluminum steering arm is a whole kit thing kinda like you got . Just without the diff covers I thought I said aftermarket shocks on it. But that stock servo and motor just wouldn't handle it the server broke first but I put an aftermarket 50/50 motor and trans kit in it first I Friday injora 50/50 the purple motor and I couldn't get it to work I guess I just got a bad unit. 😊 Sodolaks when I went to was adderal I got it off Amazon it was 30 bucks for the motor and trans together aluminum case all metal gears with a brass motor pinion gear when I did that I had a problem with it not wanting to crawl slow I had to either go fast or they wouldn't crawl slow. I change the main gear on the transmission for the plastic original out of the original transmission didn't make a difference. I was wondering what you would think it would be
Drop the springs and use rubber bands
Yes its the rollover king but with time and effort one can overcome that deficiency and become proficient with it as I have and I'm no expert RC driver. I no longer roll it over and can drive it almost as aggressively as my Axial C10 or SCX 24 (cheese bus) not for nothing the 1/24 Bronco is top heavy and is prone to roll overs too but again with practice one can overcome such minor issues, give yourself a chance and keep that money in your pocket LoL.
Agreed that this requires a unique driving style
How many degrees will they climb under power. ?
The chute obstacle tops out at ~52 degrees at the top. My guess would be close to 60 in real world conditions.
Wonder if a battery with a higher c rating would help 🤔
Possibly. That's a good idea to try
Just finished watching..the fact that they didn't put the v2 electronics is just a insult to my intelligence lol.. but a custom ax24 furitek build is on my list the angry sparrow is really growing on me
Same here on all accounts
@@CapeCrawlers lol
The lack of slow crawl control kills me with mine, other than that i like this rig
Same here
Can you do a review of the rc4wd 0.7 wheels
I can try. I think they're specific to the RC4WD trucks right?
I’m actually not sure I ordered a pair of tires though not the rims yet cuz I was wondering on the size but maybe I thought they weren’t cuz the 1 inch rims aren’t and they fit other builds but I could be wrong lol
😂 "That's ok. We'll have a couple less energy drinks this week." Lies! Just be sure you're drinking the sugar free. This society is high on sugar and no one is talking about the effects. I'm considering this for my next 1/24. Not sure yet. Think I gotta upgrade my SCX24 first. I like the 4WS on this though. I just can't get over the non-road legal look. But I'll get over that I'm sure. I just have too much scale modeler in me...
Take the servo and motor money and get a new esc and motor combo..😁
You still don’t have a 4 corner scale.. Bro, do you even review?
On a serious note: just like the real world, big tires needs lower gears. The Injora Underdrive seems like the most underutilized mod. 33% reduction in both axles for cheap, or combine with Mofo 20% gears up front.
Haha I know, I need to get one. I have the underdrive gears on my bench. This is a perfect candidate for them.
Do you think the AX24 has more competition potential than the SCX24?
Possibly. The 4ws is a great advantage. But the chassis layout needs help. With a stretched rear and different chassis, it’s a monster
I would much rather hear the wine knowing that it is working and so what it wines big deal.
Companies that make these rc trucks need to fix that screaming esc problem. I won’t buy anything that makes dog whistle noises.
So basically these “upgrades” made it nearly unusable..
slow down brother, you take you take your time advertising the products(which is ok) but then you fly thru installing them,which by the way is why i watched it in the first place
I need to find a balance between too long/boring installs and too fast