Oh - I remember the whole story very well… 🚙💨💨💨🇯🇵. You can’t imagine how lucky I am that my C1 runs like hell without having any issues. Prends soin de toi et bonne route. A bientôt -» Martin 😊
Valve seals, Rings ??? You’re the man to work it out ! Breathe solace in the fact that you’re not alone…I decided to RedEx a Lada 1600 in around 1990, and the result (of emitted Black smoke) were SO good, a neighbour decided to call the Fire Brigade 😂 She ran PERFECT after that ! More updates, please !!! JCHK
7:07 Engine Power (measured) = Nice. 27:44 I kept thinking that circle in the bottom right of the screen, was going to highlight something. Took me way longer than I'll admit too, before I realised it was your vacuum hose! Congrats on the advisory free MOT.
My first car was a 2008 Aygo with the same 1KR-FE engine. I LOVED it! 1 previous owner (little old lady), I took it from 32k to 56k miles and it had a full main dealer service history right up until I got it at 10 years old. I did my own services every 6 months with it and it provided me with so many happy memories of learning to drive, finishing school, starting work and going to uni. The sounds of it revving brought me right back to the school carpark of a lunchtime when everyone loved the little 3 pot thrruuumm. P.S my exhaust never smoked at all, nor it consume any oil between services
Smokiest car I ever owned was an early '80s Accord. I only bought it for the doors, as I had a tidier one with mild rust in the door bottoms. This thing I bought went OK, but it was truly a smoke generator. I thrashed the crap out of it when I was taking it into work to strip it, and the smoke simply stopped. Completely. Did an oil change on it, and we tarted it up. It became the shop hack, and lasted for about 2 years before being sold on. It never smoked again while I owned it, and it drove like a new car. Most bizarre. Must have been driven very quietly in its earlier life, and maybe just got gummed up?
Well hurrah for the pass! I guess that gives you time to source a replacement engine. I remember a motor vehicles lecturer at the local college explaining to me that engines can often generate more power as they get older, because the bore and rings are wearing out, and so generate less friction. One symptom is that it burns quite a lot more oil. I guess in a car like this though, it would pressurise the crank case and throw a load of oily crap into the breather pipe / engine air inlet, which should be obvious. I was expecting the plugs to be blacker.
I doubt it'll be getting a replacement engine, it's just got to last a year. Higher miles engines do often produce more power. Everything is nicely worn in with low slacker tolerances. The issue comes when you have things like a worn camshaft...then you quickly start losing power.
At Kennings (Rover) we used to use Forte it was brilliant. Years later when had own workshop, I stocked forte, A trade customer had a smokey Mazda van. I sold him some Forte, he mis-read instructions. One can does six tanks of fuel. He put six cans in one tank. When I put on my opacity meter, I couldn't get a reading it was 0.00.
The oil must be getting pulled in by the high vacuum created when the engine is coming down from high revs with the throttle closed. The gas speed in the exhaust is really low when the throttle is closed, so a whole exhaust tube's worth of smoke gets blown out in a huge puff when you get on the gas again. So I'm thinking it's something air intake related. Crankcase ventilation maybe?
It passed , well done sir , also loved the fog effect video as I was waiting to see the sea foam men come ashore to get Jamie Lee Curtis , your to young to remember the film “ Fog “ 😂😂👍
Check the breather system..they get clogged and start to blow oil past oil seals . Some folks drill the restricted hole out so the oil doesn't come out the seals but it makes the engine smoke a bit.
What works really nice to remove carbom from piston rings is to add dimethyl sulfoxide to the engine oil. You have to be careful with painted parts. If you have a metal oil pan you have to remove the pan and remove the paint on the inside from it first as otherwise the flaked paint will block the screen on the oil pick up tube. If you add it, use thicker oil, at least 15w-40 and then add about 5-20% of that stuff but usually you shouldn't add more than 12%. This stuff is either sold in 5l jugs or 100ml bottles. It freezes at 18°C. Only do that in idle as it thins out the oil and disconnect the pcv pipe. It will also heavily reduce the knock resistance of fuel. Good ventilation is important too as that stuff is smelly. Did it myself and a cylinder head full of carbon looked like fresh from the factory afterwards. Also at least flush the engine out afterwards with fresh oil and then put in the oil you want. You can watch Russians do it, Garage 54 did it in one video. You'll find it with the following term димексид гараж 54
I'm very old school, what we did for sticky rings was called a London de-coke. Buy some redex (the cheapest available) we used to have a pump style redex tank on our forecourt that customer could inject 1 shot per gallon for free. Anyway get the redex and take your air filter off, inject the redex slowly into the intake, reving the engine whilst you do it. In effect the cold redex hitting the hot piston/ rings etc breaks up any carbon. Put a few shots in the petrol and your cars emissions are USUALLY low enough for the MOT. Diesel or petrol are treated the same, it cleans out the injectors (remember that injectors not firing properly causes smoke as well) To clean out your oilways, suck out a quarter of your oil and top your engine up with paraffin run it on tick over for 10 to 15 mins, change your oil and filter and your oil pressure will go up a little, plus your oil will reach the valves a lot easier. I am 77 now and still use these old methods to beat the dreaded MOT emissions, Not killed an engine using these methods,,, SO FAR
If the oil filter is such a faff, makes you wonder if its been changed when its supposed to be or if the garages have said feck it and just changed the oil.
The vvt is in the head so if you port product into the head it will have pure poduct if you pour it into the dipstick tube it mixes with the oil more, hypothetically.
The oil source for the VVT is from the sump, via the oil pump and filter. Pouring it into the cam cover isn't going to get it to the VVT any faster or slower than down the dipstick tube.
@@ferrumignis I was just trying to rationalise why the seller had even said to use a prodact that says on the bottle that it is not for vvt. However theoil filler is right above the cams so I think it's more likely to be concentrated up there tan if it slapped around by the crank in the sump before its diluted enough to go through the oil stainer. Kind ol like how you get the less dense parts of a layered cocktail before the denser ones.
The spigot is probably for draining the oil out of the filter housing. PEople probably don't do that because it takes time. I like to do it because it makes much less of a mess on other cars with a drain plug for the filter housing.
You can safely drive on seafoam. I usually do 200miles with seafoam and then change the oil. My car consumes oil through the pcv valve. Replaced it, no change. I am deleting the vaccum tube to it, leaving the catchcan in, and vent to athmo
With clogged piston rings it can still have power. However with oil control ring it doesn't push oil from cylinders into pan leading to oil getting into combustion chamber.
My Peugeot 205 had this and it drove me mad- turned out thevalve stem seals were completely nackered, and leaked a lot of oil onto the cylinders- it even left a sticky goo on the pistons. Reolacing them was easily one of the most worthwhile maintenace things i've done to it!
Try a piston soak with B12 chemtool if u can get it seafoam is basically just alcohol and a light oil its not strong enough to dissolve much carbon it was made for boats with water in the fuel oil etc thats why its called seafoam also check the pcv it could be making it burn oil aswell
20y ago i did the ATF trick on a Ford Fiesta XR2i of my neighbor. He bought it cheap but it had this ticking tappety sound at idle. It had hydraulic lifters but at least 1 was stuck. So i dropped 0.5L ATF in the sump and told him to cane it. And forget about it. It worked! I think ATF has about the viscosity of 5w30 or 0W20 and it is used for lubrication (of gears but still) and mixed with the 4L? normal engine oil there was no real risk to the engine. I think this seafoam stuf is some concoction (spelling?) made up of ATF and maybe petroleum?
I had a injector stuck open on my petrol xm which ended up pumping a lot of petrol in sump it smoked very bad, but after two oil changes there is no smoking exhaust and very clean oil after 6000 miles engine has 160000 on it, so there is hope
There is something weird going on... it starts off not smokey then the oil seems to have accumulated somewhere or found a way through and then it puffs out loads of smoke... the dyno run footage around 7.30 - 8.15 shows it well. Clean on the run then a big burst of clag when you back off... Take the oil filler cap off and see if you can feel piston blowby... also see if that reduces the smoke in case the crankcase is pressurising. Blocked breather maybe ? I would have put just half of the additive in for a 3 litre oil capacity... you shouldn't over-flush a neglected engine because you can dislodge crusty crud and block oilways. Maybe that's why they say don't use it with VVT engines ? Try Valvoline MaxLife high mileage oil in a slightly thicker viscosity than standard ?
That's even worse for VVT (and hydraulic lifters) Those need thin oil to get it thuis those tiny oil passages. Thick oul like 20W50 will not do that initialen. Maybe when it's hot but not right after cold startups.
"Loose is fast" as they say in the old "Days of thunder" film.. Looking at the dyno, it seems certain they were referring to the gaps from which oil can escape into the combustion chamber and not anything else like chassis setup, right? RIGHT?? Anyway, I am sure you are aware, but people pour all manner of things down the cylinders to try and free up rings, and then letting it sit for a day or two, I heard a guy who let his car sit for a few months with cylinders full of wd40, topping them up now and again, and purportedly taking note of how much faster it drained over time... It was called "the wd40 trick" and was a bit popular for a while with BMW owners. Other people use ATF, brake cleaner, etc etc all manner of things and in various mixes. CRC engine carbon cleaner for turbos and intakes might work? at least its proven to genunly dissolve carbon deposits on valves etc, but if thats applicable in any way to piston rings, I cant say. For valve stem seals and gaskets "Omega gasket expander/restorer" is supposed to work ok-ish I hear? At lest within whats possible of course. Cheers mate.
Good little engine but they all burn oil from new. I have a 11 year old Aygo and change the oil every 5k miles but never seen one of them engines smoke that bad
If it primarily smokes when on/off throttle, it may be sucking oil into the inlet from the very high vacuum from the overrun? Possibly the PCV is faulty?
Yes that will definitely fail it’s MOT. If you brought SKIT to me in my shop it would be an instant fail. In Australia when you purchase a used car it needs a brand new MOT even if it already has one in order to get it transferred into your name. I really hope this does work otherwise you could be wasting £600 you just spent.
@@rimmersbryggeri It's a strong detergent much more than in ordinary oils.. traditionally oils for diesel engines had more detergent but specifications have come together more for modern engines.
This isn't going to work. Other UA-camrs (one from America) did a similar "project" and none of this miracle cure stuff actually was a miracle cure. Valve stem seals knackered due to zero maintenance during the car's lifetime. The sludge was found to prove it. Can't fix them because it cost more than the car is worth. There is one possible cheat to get it through the MOT. Put in the thickest Engine oil possible just before the actual test. It just might be too thick to pass those seals, but it might still fail, simply no guarantee.🤷🏼♂
In the Army we used vinegar to decarbonize everything, weapons, engines, exhausts, worked a treat and quickly. Hardest part was smuggling the vinegar out of the cookhouse
Intently watching this because reasons...
You aren't the only one 😂
@@misshubnut just don't hold your breath
@@pallsmortion4750 Or breathe the smoke
@@pallsmortion4750I would hold my breath, with that smoke 😷
Oh - I remember the whole story very well… 🚙💨💨💨🇯🇵. You can’t imagine how lucky I am that my C1 runs like hell without having any issues. Prends soin de toi et bonne route. A bientôt -» Martin 😊
Valve seals, Rings ??? You’re the man to work it out !
Breathe solace in the fact that you’re not alone…I decided to RedEx a Lada 1600 in around 1990, and the result (of emitted Black smoke) were SO good, a neighbour decided to call the Fire Brigade 😂
She ran PERFECT after that !
More updates, please !!!
JCHK
7:07 Engine Power (measured) = Nice.
27:44 I kept thinking that circle in the bottom right of the screen, was going to highlight something. Took me way longer than I'll admit too, before I realised it was your vacuum hose!
Congrats on the advisory free MOT.
I thought that also!
Was he about to kick the oil over? I thought. 😂
@@MattBrownbill Glad I'm not the only "Special" one on here, Matt!
My first car was a 2008 Aygo with the same 1KR-FE engine. I LOVED it!
1 previous owner (little old lady), I took it from 32k to 56k miles and it had a full main dealer service history right up until I got it at 10 years old. I did my own services every 6 months with it and it provided me with so many happy memories of learning to drive, finishing school, starting work and going to uni. The sounds of it revving brought me right back to the school carpark of a lunchtime when everyone loved the little 3 pot thrruuumm.
P.S my exhaust never smoked at all, nor it consume any oil between services
Passed with no advisories!!
Nice
Liquid Moly stop smoke is brilliant. Disguises absolute sheds at px time
When you said a bit of smoke , I wasn't expecting a big bit.
It's just like The Spanish Inquisition.
@@hadtopicausername ''Well tonight Matthew i'm going to be''
It is when you can cut it with a knife, you have Smoke. Otherwise it's light mist
Smokiest car I ever owned was an early '80s Accord.
I only bought it for the doors, as I had a tidier one with mild rust in the door bottoms.
This thing I bought went OK, but it was truly a smoke generator.
I thrashed the crap out of it when I was taking it into work to strip it, and the smoke simply stopped.
Completely.
Did an oil change on it, and we tarted it up. It became the shop hack, and lasted for about 2 years before being sold on.
It never smoked again while I owned it, and it drove like a new car.
Most bizarre.
Must have been driven very quietly in its earlier life, and maybe just got gummed up?
Well hurrah for the pass! I guess that gives you time to source a replacement engine.
I remember a motor vehicles lecturer at the local college explaining to me that engines can often generate more power as they get older, because the bore and rings are wearing out, and so generate less friction. One symptom is that it burns quite a lot more oil. I guess in a car like this though, it would pressurise the crank case and throw a load of oily crap into the breather pipe / engine air inlet, which should be obvious. I was expecting the plugs to be blacker.
I doubt it'll be getting a replacement engine, it's just got to last a year.
Higher miles engines do often produce more power. Everything is nicely worn in with low slacker tolerances. The issue comes when you have things like a worn camshaft...then you quickly start losing power.
Thanks for the great tinkering video, and for the recommendation for Stupid Bloke channel.
At Kennings (Rover) we used to use Forte it was brilliant. Years later when had own workshop, I stocked forte, A trade customer had a smokey Mazda van. I sold him some Forte, he mis-read instructions. One can does six tanks of fuel. He put six cans in one tank. When I put on my opacity meter, I couldn't get a reading it was 0.00.
The oil must be getting pulled in by the high vacuum created when the engine is coming down from high revs with the throttle closed. The gas speed in the exhaust is really low when the throttle is closed, so a whole exhaust tube's worth of smoke gets blown out in a huge puff when you get on the gas again. So I'm thinking it's something air intake related. Crankcase ventilation maybe?
The offer for the old flagship phone still stands
I used to use redex down the bores of my old mini. Glad you tried it
My respect for you mate with The Music t-shirt has just increased thrice fold 😅 love the channel 👍🏻
I’m in the comments to see if anyone else had noticed 🙌🏽
It passed , well done sir , also loved the fog effect video as I was waiting to see the sea foam men come ashore to get Jamie Lee Curtis , your to young to remember the film “ Fog “ 😂😂👍
Check the breather system..they get clogged and start to blow oil past oil seals . Some folks drill the restricted hole out so the oil doesn't come out the seals but it makes the engine smoke a bit.
Well done little Sir Ion
Lol, passed, obviously the MOT Tester was smoking his fav cigar at the time and got misled!! Or just checked a 2 stroke Trabant.., 🤔🤭🤣👍🇬🇧
No way it passed with no advisory’s smoking like that 😂 I need to know where you got that mot
my brother-in-law flushed a 2.1td xm with diesel and the oil stayed golden for way longer than it had any right to!
i Just Joined the members section 🙂 i love your vids. keep doing more and more and more and more 🙂
Welcome aboard!
What works really nice to remove carbom from piston rings is to add dimethyl sulfoxide to the engine oil.
You have to be careful with painted parts.
If you have a metal oil pan you have to remove the pan and remove the paint on the inside from it first as otherwise the flaked paint will block the screen on the oil pick up tube.
If you add it, use thicker oil, at least 15w-40 and then add about 5-20% of that stuff but usually you shouldn't add more than 12%.
This stuff is either sold in 5l jugs or 100ml bottles. It freezes at 18°C.
Only do that in idle as it thins out the oil and disconnect the pcv pipe.
It will also heavily reduce the knock resistance of fuel.
Good ventilation is important too as that stuff is smelly.
Did it myself and a cylinder head full of carbon looked like fresh from the factory afterwards.
Also at least flush the engine out afterwards with fresh oil and then put in the oil you want.
You can watch Russians do it, Garage 54 did it in one video. You'll find it with the following term
димексид гараж 54
Trying the ole "Texas tune up" indoors is probably not the best idea.
I thought the back end was further outside than it was!
@@UPnDOWN it's a bit shorter than your C6!
Come on Mr Kitch: you should know there is no magic potion for mechanical wear or failure! 🙂
"This may fail a MoT..." - but didn't! Yay, go Skit!!
I'm very old school, what we did for sticky rings was called a London de-coke.
Buy some redex (the cheapest available) we used to have a pump style redex tank on our forecourt that customer could inject 1 shot per gallon for free.
Anyway get the redex and take your air filter off, inject the redex slowly into the intake, reving the engine whilst you do it.
In effect the cold redex hitting the hot piston/ rings etc breaks up any carbon.
Put a few shots in the petrol and your cars emissions are USUALLY low enough for the MOT.
Diesel or petrol are treated the same, it cleans out the injectors (remember that injectors not firing properly causes smoke as well)
To clean out your oilways, suck out a quarter of your oil and top your engine up with paraffin run it on tick over for 10 to 15 mins, change your oil and filter and your oil pressure will go up a little, plus your oil will reach the valves a lot easier.
I am 77 now and still use these old methods to beat the dreaded MOT emissions, Not killed an engine using these methods,,, SO FAR
Yeah i looked, well done
If the oil filter is such a faff, makes you wonder if its been changed when its supposed to be or if the garages have said feck it and just changed the oil.
Thinking of miss hubnuts charade here and wondering what appears to make daihatsus more prone to smoke/oil burning?
The white smoke on startup after the Sea Foam treatment regime is stuff thats raw in the exhaust and cat etc vaporising off.
The music 🙌🏽
Skit leaving a Mark..... 😂😂 Well done on the MOT Pass.
The vvt is in the head so if you port product into the head it will have pure poduct if you pour it into the dipstick tube it mixes with the oil more, hypothetically.
The oil source for the VVT is from the sump, via the oil pump and filter. Pouring it into the cam cover isn't going to get it to the VVT any faster or slower than down the dipstick tube.
@@ferrumignis I was just trying to rationalise why the seller had even said to use a prodact that says on the bottle that it is not for vvt. However theoil filler is right above the cams so I think it's more likely to be concentrated up there tan if it slapped around by the crank in the sump before its diluted enough to go through the oil stainer. Kind ol like how you get the less dense parts of a layered cocktail before the denser ones.
@@ferrumignis Could be a universal advisory, possibly.
I thought exactly the same. Saved me the typing. Thanks.
@@GoldenCroc 🤣
I was surprised that you did not suspect (or inspect) the PCV system.
How do you know I haven't...?
Lovely jubbly!
The spigot is probably for draining the oil out of the filter housing. PEople probably don't do that because it takes time. I like to do it because it makes much less of a mess on other cars with a drain plug for the filter housing.
You can safely drive on seafoam. I usually do 200miles with seafoam and then change the oil. My car consumes oil through the pcv valve. Replaced it, no change. I am deleting the vaccum tube to it, leaving the catchcan in, and vent to athmo
on this model ?
@@mopedbanzi3275 on any model. You add it to OIL, and it cleans the motor up, then you change the oil
Marvel mystery oil and two stroke mix Works on my old 2 strokes
The mk5 golf gti has something similar on its filter housing. On that it’s to drain the housing so you don’t get covered in oil when changing it
Well done on the pass sir.
Valve stem oil seals i'm guessing, no lack of power, seals gone hard.
With clogged piston rings it can still have power. However with oil control ring it doesn't push oil from cylinders into pan leading to oil getting into combustion chamber.
I just googled auto asphyxiation. Not a Daihatsu in sight
yet .. still looking.
My 1984 Carina II produces enormous amounts of blue smoke when cold, but it is as agile and fit as can be. Your Daihatsu is just fine!
My Peugeot 205 had this and it drove me mad- turned out thevalve stem seals were completely nackered, and leaked a lot of oil onto the cylinders- it even left a sticky goo on the pistons. Reolacing them was easily one of the most worthwhile maintenace things i've done to it!
@@morkelork4730 I might do that too, but only drive like 500 miles a year with it.
hubnut loves smokey daihatsu, maybe he can fix it
Try a piston soak with B12 chemtool if u can get it seafoam is basically just alcohol and a light oil its not strong enough to dissolve much carbon it was made for boats with water in the fuel oil etc thats why its called seafoam also check the pcv it could be making it burn oil aswell
I've got a perodua nippa rotting under my tree in the garden. 850cc engine is free if you want it haha
Well done!
My best guess is valve stem seals
20y ago i did the ATF trick on a Ford Fiesta XR2i of my neighbor. He bought it cheap but it had this ticking tappety sound at idle. It had hydraulic lifters but at least 1 was stuck. So i dropped 0.5L ATF in the sump and told him to cane it. And forget about it. It worked!
I think ATF has about the viscosity of 5w30 or 0W20 and it is used for lubrication (of gears but still) and mixed with the 4L? normal engine oil there was no real risk to the engine.
I think this seafoam stuf is some concoction (spelling?) made up of ATF and maybe petroleum?
Having just down the obligatory motorway check online, I need to know the name of your MOT station....😂
Congratulations 🎉
Blown head gasket on the exhaust port. Coolent going by there only.
Hi Lad, is the follow up video available?
Haven't made one yet.
Hardened valve guide seals
we used 2stroke oil in the fuel on bad engines to get it thru mot years ago. i dont think oil f's up the values if its not super duper bad.
Is it me or that is the 1KRFE engine that use the Toyota Aygo, Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107/108?
Valve guides on overrun
I had a injector stuck open on my petrol xm which ended up pumping a lot of petrol in sump it smoked very bad, but after two oil changes there is no smoking exhaust and very clean oil after 6000 miles engine has 160000 on it, so there is hope
The oil in the combustion chamber is raising the compression so more power?
Haha! I did actually wonder this!
The way it was smoking during the lul in you revving it, could it be valve stem seals?
I don't think so, it doesn't have any of the other symptoms.
Forte oil treatment would fix it
1kr on a 2008 shouldn't have ring issues its the EJ and 05/06 1kr that does but that doesn't rule out the PCV
Gallon of kero in instead of oil. Let it idle for a couple of minutes. Then oil-change.
There is something weird going on... it starts off not smokey then the oil seems to have accumulated somewhere or found a way through and then it puffs out loads of smoke... the dyno run footage around 7.30 - 8.15 shows it well. Clean on the run then a big burst of clag when you back off...
Take the oil filler cap off and see if you can feel piston blowby... also see if that reduces the smoke in case the crankcase is pressurising. Blocked breather maybe ?
I would have put just half of the additive in for a 3 litre oil capacity... you shouldn't over-flush a neglected engine because you can dislodge crusty crud and block oilways. Maybe that's why they say don't use it with VVT engines ?
Try Valvoline MaxLife high mileage oil in a slightly thicker viscosity than standard ?
That's even worse for VVT (and hydraulic lifters)
Those need thin oil to get it thuis those tiny oil passages. Thick oul like 20W50 will not do that initialen. Maybe when it's hot but not right after cold startups.
There's no blowby at all, it's otherwise pretty healthy (other than the awful-sounding bearing)
@@jfv65 I was thinking 5w/40 or 10w/40 depending on ACEA compatibility….
@@jfv65 Rover VVT K Series from the 90s specified 10w/40… higher performing than these tiddly little engines !
Long story, short: defective engine/ exhaust system will not be repaired cheaply
"Loose is fast" as they say in the old "Days of thunder" film.. Looking at the dyno, it seems certain they were referring to the gaps from which oil can escape into the combustion chamber and not anything else like chassis setup, right? RIGHT??
Anyway, I am sure you are aware, but people pour all manner of things down the cylinders to try and free up rings, and then letting it sit for a day or two, I heard a guy who let his car sit for a few months with cylinders full of wd40, topping them up now and again, and purportedly taking note of how much faster it drained over time... It was called "the wd40 trick" and was a bit popular for a while with BMW owners. Other people use ATF, brake cleaner, etc etc all manner of things and in various mixes.
CRC engine carbon cleaner for turbos and intakes might work? at least its proven to genunly dissolve carbon deposits on valves etc, but if thats applicable in any way to piston rings, I cant say.
For valve stem seals and gaskets "Omega gasket expander/restorer" is supposed to work ok-ish I hear? At lest within whats possible of course.
Cheers mate.
Do you give your chosen MOT station a lot of work?
😉
You can't rebuild oil scavenger rings when you have worn rings.
Good little engine but they all burn oil from new. I have a 11 year old Aygo and change the oil every 5k miles but never seen one of them engines smoke that bad
put in lucas fuel treatment ! made my mx5 pass mot
was on empty and i dumped the whole lot in. its like the redex stuff but better imo
It seems to only smoke on the overrun...
If it primarily smokes when on/off throttle, it may be sucking oil into the inlet from the very high vacuum from the overrun? Possibly the PCV is faulty?
Pcv valve easy clean/replacement. My daughter’s 1.0 yaris krfe was burning oil at 100k and replaced pcv and zero smoke or oil consumption
Yes that will definitely fail it’s MOT. If you brought SKIT to me in my shop it would be an instant fail. In Australia when you purchase a used car it needs a brand new MOT even if it already has one in order to get it transferred into your name.
I really hope this does work otherwise you could be wasting £600 you just spent.
Not bug, feature. Ex-military car. Concealment in action.
If the oil filter housing had gunk in it what would the sump and egr look like
True enough.
At this point its looking a lot like Hubnut
Vowel guides. and oil seals. My opinion lol.
So runs well on massively worn spark plugs
Seaform was designed for Marian engine's . Thus the name
Valve seals or rings at a guess?
Skit is shit in Swedish😁
Ow skit
Nice one, woo hoo!
Mam! There's a man on the telly shouting at smoke 😅
...again!
we are waiting?
Just name it Robinson
You could always start a fumigation business...
valve seals
Just stick a TDi badge on the boot, nobody will know.
None of these magic potions work all they do is cause problems try changing valve seals but I reckon its a ring problem
After all that syringe action, Skit is now pregnant and in other news, a new Pope has been elected.
Skit bil👍
Engine oil also has detergents so I don't understand what the point of atf would really. be. Other than views.
@@rimmersbryggeri It's a strong detergent much more than in ordinary oils.. traditionally oils for diesel engines had more detergent but specifications have come together more for modern engines.
@@johnmoruzzi7236 Its till not going to unclog the pcv though and other places that causes smoking like this.
This isn't going to work.
Other UA-camrs (one from America) did a similar "project" and none of this miracle cure stuff
actually was a miracle cure.
Valve stem seals knackered due to zero maintenance during the car's lifetime.
The sludge was found to prove it.
Can't fix them because it cost more than the car is worth.
There is one possible cheat to get it through the MOT. Put in the thickest Engine oil possible just
before the actual test. It just might be too thick to pass those seals, but it might still fail,
simply no guarantee.🤷🏼♂
put some cataclean through it
Skit the smoky car
''schit''
rev it
You can't fix a mechanical problem out a can,,😊
In the Army we used vinegar to decarbonize everything, weapons, engines, exhausts, worked a treat and quickly. Hardest part was smuggling the vinegar out of the cookhouse
Yes it's great. I buy concentrated white vinegar and bathe parts in it. A day or two, and after a good scrub they're good to go.
I don't want to teach grandma to suck eggs but check and clean the PCV. The gum up and stick open on the C1 causing oil burning.