Mike smart hi David thanks for another wonderful video that's the first time I've seen that done like that and I've been in Mopar guy for 45 years that's the only kind of vehicle I've ever drove my whole life is a Mopar or no car so I enjoyed the video I'm proud of you hang in there you going to do great God bless you
Good to see you again Dave. Glad your doing what you love to do. Liked you on the show but to tell you the truth, I really didn't care for your goofy boss. Lol😆! I wish you'd get your own prime time show like Mark. You're much more pleasurable to watch and a great personality. Your very informative and great at what you do. Your cars look great after your done with them. Glad I found this channel so I will continue to watch. Thanks.
Any press trick is welcome to me. I've had to do some creative stuff in the past, that after looking back on it, could have killed me. Doing it the right way in a safe manor is really the way to do it. Thanks for the advise Dave.
Thanks Dave for your tips and video. Always watched graveyard cars to see u for your great information, Wish u were still there.Thanks again dave.barry
Thanks Dave! I've just started on the suspension work for my Superbird that you did the rear window plug install. We need to talk about when I can bring the nose down so you can assemble the lights and motors assembly. Keep up the good work!
Dave we need more content...from the smallest things (a switch) to bigger things (gearbox rebuild). just turn the camera on and keep it on. Also why not get someone camera inclined to edit it, upload it . I'm sure your channel will blow up. Remember extra income !
Hi dave, I'm a fan up here in Seattle. Where are you located I'm coming down to McMinnville on Thursday if you're close by I'd like to say hey, shake your hand ! Anyways I'm glad you have more videos !
I don't weld, but I have the same Harbor Freight press. So what I did was, I pressed out the rubber bushing (easier than burning it out), then ran a large self-threading tap down the metal sleeve, and pressed it out by pressing on the tap itself. Popped right out!
To remove the pin sleeve, just lay the pin on a vice or anvil, strike the bushing a few times with a hammer, causing it to expand. Then it slips right off. I've done hundreds of them.
On the earlier mopars there's a castle nut way down in that pocket. You have to get in there and get the cotter pin out and then get a socket down in there to take the nut off. It appears to be a 15/16 but even a non impact (thin wall" socket won't fit in there to get the nut off and therefore get the shaft out of the control arm. Have you ever run into this and what do I do?
Let me ask, how did you do the cosmoline? Did you buy a bucket of it and dip them, or did you just use rattle-can cosmoline and spray it? Also, how did you treat the part that is typically not cosmolined? Did you apply anything so it doesn't rust in that area, unlike the factory? Thanks! Good content.
Hi Patrick, I spray the control arm with a paint that is a similar color to cosmoline to appear that it was dipped and then I spray the entire control arm with satin clear to keep it from rusting.
Hey Dave. Great video for us guys trying to figure this stuff out. Quick question on reassembly of the lower control arm bushing. Do you press the spindle in first and then press the bushing and spindle in to the lower control arm? Or do you press the bushing into the lower control arm first and then press the spindle in last? Thanks.
I press the bushing in first, then the rod. You need to make sure you have something behind the bushing when pressing in the rod to keep it from coming apart as the rod goes in, I like to use a socket. Be sure to use anti seize on the surface of the bushing and rod.
There are some out there that the rubber is very hard and not very flexible and they tear pretty easy, for those I recommend cutting down a funnel so it just fits on the end of the torsion bar and grease it up good and slide the boot down the funnel and it will gradually expand and slide onto the bar.
Thanks Dave for the great tip & how to video on how to get the lower control arm bushings out.
Clever trick and it’s nice to see you putting up some content Dave.
Mike smart hi David thanks for another wonderful video that's the first time I've seen that done like that and I've been in Mopar guy for 45 years that's the only kind of vehicle I've ever drove my whole life is a Mopar or no car so I enjoyed the video I'm proud of you hang in there you going to do great God bless you
Just got turned onto this channel, you were a great addition to the show, they sure lost a great tech and great guy when you left.
Good to see you again Dave. Glad your doing what you love to do. Liked you on the show but to tell you the truth, I really didn't care for your goofy boss. Lol😆! I wish you'd get your own prime time show like Mark. You're much more pleasurable to watch and a great personality. Your very informative and great at what you do. Your cars look great after your done with them. Glad I found this channel so I will continue to watch. Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words Dirk!
Any press trick is welcome to me. I've had to do some creative stuff in the past, that after looking back on it, could have killed me. Doing it the right way in a safe manor is really the way to do it. Thanks for the advise Dave.
Thanks Dave for your tips and video. Always watched graveyard cars to see u for your great information, Wish u were still there.Thanks again dave.barry
Keep em coming, Dave! Very helpful stuff.
Thanks Dave! I've just started on the suspension work for my Superbird that you did the rear window plug install. We need to talk about when I can bring the nose down so you can assemble the lights and motors assembly. Keep up the good work!
Now that's smart! I'm always amazed with the solutions some welders come up with.
I'm glad i found this video. i'm about to tackle this job
Great idea Dave!! Would love to see you in action doing it!!!
Great tip! Thanks for passing this along. It will save a lot of mess and headaches. Good job!!
Dave we need more content...from the smallest things (a switch) to bigger things (gearbox rebuild). just turn the camera on and keep it on. Also why not get someone camera inclined to edit it, upload it . I'm sure your channel will blow up. Remember extra income !
Thanks for the tip Dave, I just used it for my Chrysler Valiant Charger in Australia 🇦🇺
Hi dave, I'm a fan up here in Seattle. Where are you located I'm coming down to McMinnville on Thursday if you're close by I'd like to say hey, shake your hand !
Anyways I'm glad you have more videos !
hey thanks I'm doing my bros 1965 dodge dart gt i just had no clue...... live saver!😎
Dave . Please keep up the videos .
Hey Dave, those parts look familiar! I still need to get my sway bar down to you.
I don't weld, but I have the same Harbor Freight press. So what I did was, I pressed out the rubber bushing (easier than burning it out), then ran a large self-threading tap down the metal sleeve, and pressed it out by pressing on the tap itself. Popped right out!
Awesome!
Thanks for the tip! Applied knowledge is power right? 🤔👍
Good tip Dave.... pure awesome☺
To remove the pin sleeve, just lay the pin on a vice or anvil, strike the bushing a few times with a hammer, causing it to expand. Then it slips right off. I've done hundreds of them.
Thanks for the tip! Will save me a lot of time.
😎👍 Nice job on your Video
Nice trick, time saver
excellent job. Do you have any idea how to make a Strut tower support? What diameter and thickness of tube should I use? It's for a 1975 Dodge Dart.
On the earlier mopars there's a castle nut way down in that pocket. You have to get in there and get the cotter pin out and then get a socket down in there to take the nut off. It appears to be a 15/16 but even a non impact (thin wall" socket won't fit in there to get the nut off and therefore get the shaft out of the control arm. Have you ever run into this and what do I do?
Good work. Thanks for that
What’s your thoughts on converting to disc brakes, are they better, the same or worst? Thanks
Great tip. Thanks.
Hey David, does the owner want to keep it original or has there been any thought given to converting to disc?
Let me ask, how did you do the cosmoline? Did you buy a bucket of it and dip them, or did you just use rattle-can cosmoline and spray it? Also, how did you treat the part that is typically not cosmolined? Did you apply anything so it doesn't rust in that area, unlike the factory? Thanks! Good content.
Hi Patrick, I spray the control arm with a paint that is a similar color to cosmoline to appear that it was dipped and then I spray the entire control arm with satin clear to keep it from rusting.
Cool video
Hey Dave. Great video for us guys trying to figure this stuff out. Quick question on reassembly of the lower control arm bushing. Do you press the spindle in first and then press the bushing and spindle in to the lower control arm? Or do you press the bushing into the lower control arm first and then press the spindle in last? Thanks.
I press the bushing in first, then the rod. You need to make sure you have something behind the bushing when pressing in the rod to keep it from coming apart as the rod goes in, I like to use a socket. Be sure to use anti seize on the surface of the bushing and rod.
Nowata,OK Thanks!
Thanks dude
way to go bud
Dave, what is the proper way to install the dust boots on the trosion bars? Mine split when I tried to install.
Thanks
There are some out there that the rubber is very hard and not very flexible and they tear pretty easy, for those I recommend cutting down a funnel so it just fits on the end of the torsion bar and grease it up good and slide the boot down the funnel and it will gradually expand and slide onto the bar.
Great idea !
My 70 R/R has a front sway bar and the bushings are shot. Where is a good place to purchase them from? Classic industries doesn't carry them. ThanQs.
Should be able to get them from NAPA or any other auto parts store...
Try Mr Moparts.