For what it's worth...My 66 Fastback has a bracket behind the headliner, presumably for later design and install of a 3-point belt. All I had to do to use it was to drill for the pivot bolt (AND avoid drilling through the outside of the roof sheet metal, which will ruin your whole day!) I then used some fine SST wire to hold onto the bolt while snaking it into its new home. Be sure to locate the hole in the headliner where it will be when it is stretched back into place. I mounted the reel as you described in the video, and the anchor in the original location. I did get extra-length belt to account for the longer mounting locations. Works fine - hope I don't have to test the install under emergency conditions! I also installed 3-point belts on the rear-seat positions. Posed a few additional problems, the main one being mounting the reel. I fabricated a 1/4" steel bracket and anchored it in the trunk floor (NOT the gas tank part!), through to the frame rail, and drilled through the fiberglass panel to mount the reel anchor bracket.
Be careful on 67 coupes. The chrome corner is in the way of the shoulder strap anchor point. Need to drill a hole a little lower than the one Bill does! I learnt the hard way 😅. Plus I find there is no room for the plastic spacer. They could have made the bolt that is attached with rivets a little longer!
That's a nice system I hate making holes but it's a good trade off .My 65 Pontiac lemans rag top if I'd a had them a friend wouldn't a had a bad busted up head from the windshield frame when a car stopped dead in front of us at a construction lane shift on a blind turn . Awesome product
Thank you for this video! It seems like my kit came with a few more parts than you actually use. I counted 1 bracket bolt/rivets/nut/nylon spacer combination on the shoulder anchor point, 2 bolts/2 nuts/1 small washer/1 large washer/1 angle bracket on the floor mount point, and then you reuse the original bolts on the other two mounts. My kit has 4 angle brackets, which would leave two left over after doing both belts, 8 bolts/nuts/small washers, which would leave 4 of each left over, and a couple of nylon stepped washers that you didn't use at all. Am I missing something? I notice that you did this video 5 years ago, so maybe the kit has changed a little since then.
I'm new to car restoration, so I've had a bit of trouble with this installation. Even though it's supposed to be really easy. The one part that has stumped me is that I can't find the whole for the receiver, there's no whole in the carpet either. What should I do?
I've herd if the 3rd top point of the seat belt is to low it can compress and break your back in a accident, is that true? cause is the video is looks pretty low
Without a proper pillar like a newer car you have to either mount it low or high. Both have their plusses and minuses but are better than just a lap belt.
3 point belt mounted too low will compress your back, but only on one side. So while its compressing, it'll also TWIST your back. The combo is very nasty. Consider a 4 or 5 point belt to avoid the twist. Or mount it up high to avoid the compression. An ideal solution would be to add a seatbelt loop to the factory seat that moves the belt higher as it goes over the seat. It could attach to the frame, just like the TMI aftermarket headrests...or it could be part of the headrest. Either way, this would solve the problem. But nobody makes it for the factory seats yet.
I was considering doing what you mentioned with say 90's convertible mustang seat belt system. there is a retractor inside the quarter panel and a belt loop that attaches to the seat outside top corner to give higher angle for the belt to go over your shoulder.
Hey Rick - go buy a new flywheel and try to mount the pressure plate with your old bolts - it didn't come with a compatible set. Guess what ? They're METRIC on the flywheel, and the threads ALMOST match original. Criminal, thinks I! OK, I should have asked if the flywheel was metric or not...but who would have guessed this level of skullduggery?
Tracey Lee I would prefer it be higher up but I am not a fan of the roof either because it creates a weird angle. Either though is better than a lap belt
Hey Bill! Is there a way to remove the quarter panels after installing the bolt with the rivets. I need weather strips in the future and it will be near impossible without being able to remove them. (66)
I have not tried but I feel if you began removing the panel from the rear you should be able to clear the stud. if not rivets are easy to drill out and are cheap
I am not fond of this type of installation on a coupe at all. It makes sense on a convertible when it is pretty much your only choice, but I don't like it for the coupe. In this install, the seat belt has to come up and then back down over your shoulder. I am more in favor of doing some extra work and attaching it to the roof support rail. It takes some extra time and a little bit of extra work, but I like the end result much better. That is how we did it with this exact kit. Doing it our way took us 8 hours to do the install. The other thing I am not fond about with this is is the fact that the 'receiving' end of the belt (the one attached to the transmission hump) is extremely short. This caused us several problems: Our '66 is my daughter's car, and she is short, so she has to have the seat pretty much all the way up, which puts the receiving portion at the back edge of the seat. In our case, we have a console installed in our car which ends up trapping the receiving portion between the seat back and the console so that you cannot unhook the belt.... this caused us a major issue. If it were adjustable, that would be great, but no, it isn't. So we had to make modifications to make it work. Not happy about that! Most other kits come with a roof support rail attachment bracket that you have to 'fish' in to the rail. it takes some work, but I like the final results much better. This kit does NOT come with the bracket to install in the roof support, so we had to fabricate our own (a large reason why it ended up taking us 8 hours to do the install). I would suggest CJ Pony add these brackets to the package. Charge a couple of extra bucks if you need to, I'm sure people wouldn't mind. I wouldn't have!!!! It would have saved me a LOT of grief! I realize we could have installed it as shown in the video, but IMO I think it could cause spinal compression in a crash. Granted, that might be better than obliterating your face on the dash or steering wheel (providing it doesn't cause long term back problems), but I'd rather attach to the roof support and not have to worry about it. Finally, find SOMEONE that can put together a decent set of instructions. The instructions provided aren't too good (and that's the only kind way I can say it).
+John Doe If you install on the roof rail, you run into problems with the belt coming too close to your neck and rubs on your clavicle . It doesn't seem perfect either way and I guess it just depends on what you prefer.
Hey Bill, first thank you....I think this will be great for my 65 convertible....other than "its better than a lap belt", is there any concerns with how this sits across your shoulder in a convertible. I think that this is basically the only option.
+Bill Tumas is it expensive to put air bags in your 1969 mustang? Like what is the relative cost of that and putting in automatic Windows and the cost of putting these seat belts (if you pay a shop to do it) thank you
Too low anchor point... this installation leads to break your shoulder in the case of an accident! The correct anchor point for this car is on the ceiling!
Nobody wondered why a 5/8" socket is recommended beside those two 16mm sockets? 1/16" = 16mm, 5/8" = 10x 1.6mm =16mm... BTW use imperial size tools on american classics.
I always chuckle when I see the rear seat pulled out so easily. Imagine how long it'd take on a modern car?
Lich King, oddly enough, it's almost exactly the same thing.
You killed me when you didn't clean up the metal shavings from the floor mounting bracket hole! 😯
"Safety has come a long way in the last 50 years. Fortunately, it's not feasible to add ABS or airbags..." - This man gets it!
For what it's worth...My 66 Fastback has a bracket behind the headliner, presumably for later design and install of a 3-point belt. All I had to do to use it was to drill for the pivot bolt (AND avoid drilling through the outside of the roof sheet metal, which will ruin your whole day!) I then used some fine SST wire to hold onto the bolt while snaking it into its new home. Be sure to locate the hole in the headliner where it will be when it is stretched back into place. I mounted the reel as you described in the video, and the anchor in the original location. I did get extra-length belt to account for the longer mounting locations. Works fine - hope I don't have to test the install under emergency conditions! I also installed 3-point belts on the rear-seat positions. Posed a few additional problems, the main one being mounting the reel. I fabricated a 1/4" steel bracket and anchored it in the trunk floor (NOT the gas tank part!), through to the frame rail, and drilled through the fiberglass panel to mount the reel anchor bracket.
Be careful on 67 coupes. The chrome corner is in the way of the shoulder strap anchor point. Need to drill a hole a little lower than the one Bill does! I learnt the hard way 😅. Plus I find there is no room for the plastic spacer. They could have made the bolt that is attached with rivets a little longer!
Great video but can you do a video of the rear install too?
ua-cam.com/video/toJOzgKi3DM/v-deo.html
Yes, please.
Nice headliner job!
That's a nice system I hate making holes but it's a good trade off .My 65 Pontiac lemans rag top if I'd a had them a friend wouldn't a had a bad busted up head from the windshield frame when a car stopped dead in front of us at a construction lane shift on a blind turn . Awesome product
Could yall do a video showing how install them in the rear
ua-cam.com/video/toJOzgKi3DM/v-deo.html
Welp.. that one sold me.. I ordered a set, thanks for great video
Update: this doesn't fit a Fastback, it will be sent back. The upper anchor is not compatible with fastback interior panel
@@MarkCarr331 what did you end up doing? I'm going to be in the same situation with my 65 fastback.
@@natedawg4997 I ended up installing a roll bar, cage system and 4 point belts. Zero regrets
Thank you for this video! It seems like my kit came with a few more parts than you actually use. I counted 1 bracket bolt/rivets/nut/nylon spacer combination on the shoulder anchor point, 2 bolts/2 nuts/1 small washer/1 large washer/1 angle bracket on the floor mount point, and then you reuse the original bolts on the other two mounts. My kit has 4 angle brackets, which would leave two left over after doing both belts, 8 bolts/nuts/small washers, which would leave 4 of each left over, and a couple of nylon stepped washers that you didn't use at all. Am I missing something?
I notice that you did this video 5 years ago, so maybe the kit has changed a little since then.
One of the significant questions needs to be what length should you purchase a seatbelt in particularly the receiver side
FINALLY! THANK YOU BILL!
Should I get some? I’m still on the fence because I don’t want to make my 1966 coupe go down In value but then again I’m never going to sell it
I wish there was a way that you could mute the music. Love your videos don’t care for the music. Thank you for your videos.
7:24 him putting the bracket thing on the metal flakes made me feel mental pain
will these work in a 1968 Mercury cougar?
Looks like the installation point will interfere with the quarter window rolling down. That’s my concern on my 68 convertible.
I’ve been told this is not recommended on a 65 Fastback. What are your thoughts?
Safety-wise I thought the shoulder strap was supposed to be above your shoulder otherwise in the event of an accident it could compress your spine?
At least your face won't be into the steering wheel.
nice.
but what about 1965 Mustang convertible?
Too many holes. It hurts
I'm new to car restoration, so I've had a bit of trouble with this installation. Even though it's supposed to be really easy. The one part that has stumped me is that I can't find the whole for the receiver, there's no whole in the carpet either. What should I do?
I know this is really late but drill a hole in the floor if there is no hole and take a box cutter and cut a hole in the carpet
Hi
Do you have a video on changing them on the backseat.??
Jimmy Sigenstrøm No we have not done a back seat install video
Will yall be doing on a video on a backseat install. My niece wants to ride in my 65 and I don't want her in it without a seat belt
We do not currently have a 65-66 available, but if we do in the future I will make sure we do one.
Bill Tumas that will be much appreciated.
@@Zerogivengarage Still waiting 4 years later...
Hi. Have u a video of show the switch of a seat belt of Mustang ´80?.
I had the single clip without the switch and want make that.
Thanks.
I've herd if the 3rd top point of the seat belt is to low it can compress and break your back in a accident, is that true? cause is the video is looks pretty low
Without a proper pillar like a newer car you have to either mount it low or high. Both have their plusses and minuses but are better than just a lap belt.
Bill, do you guys have a rear seat belt installation video? I have a daughter and am looking at installing a rear belt for her safety.
3 point belt mounted too low will compress your back, but only on one side. So while its compressing, it'll also TWIST your back. The combo is very nasty.
Consider a 4 or 5 point belt to avoid the twist. Or mount it up high to avoid the compression.
An ideal solution would be to add a seatbelt loop to the factory seat that moves the belt higher as it goes over the seat. It could attach to the frame, just like the TMI aftermarket headrests...or it could be part of the headrest. Either way, this would solve the problem. But nobody makes it for the factory seats yet.
I was considering doing what you mentioned with say 90's convertible mustang seat belt system. there is a retractor inside the quarter panel and a belt loop that attaches to the seat outside top corner to give higher angle for the belt to go over your shoulder.
It's wrong to require metric tools to work on a car from 1965.
Hey Rick - go buy a new flywheel and try to mount the pressure plate with your old bolts - it didn't come with a compatible set. Guess what ? They're METRIC on the flywheel, and the threads ALMOST match original. Criminal, thinks I! OK, I should have asked if the flywheel was metric or not...but who would have guessed this level of skullduggery?
Can I put a 3 point seat belt in my 1978 mustang?
I was going to get these seat belts installed in my 1962 Pontiac do you think they would fit
We don't really know fitments on any models beyond those listed on the part.
my dad had them in his 91 ford ill get some from a old ford and see if they fit
Does it work in other vintage cars?
Itza universal kit
CJ,
Do you think the lower mounting point makes the seat belt less safe than one that would mount to the roof?
Tracey Lee I would prefer it be higher up but I am not a fan of the roof either because it creates a weird angle. Either though is better than a lap belt
Bill. Thanks for the response. I think I'll get four of these and install them in my Cougar.
Hey Bill! Is there a way to remove the quarter panels after installing the bolt with the rivets. I need weather strips in the future and it will be near impossible without being able to remove them. (66)
I have not tried but I feel if you began removing the panel from the rear you should be able to clear the stud. if not rivets are easy to drill out and are cheap
I am not fond of this type of installation on a coupe at all. It makes sense on a convertible when it is pretty much your only choice, but I don't like it for the coupe. In this install, the seat belt has to come up and then back down over your shoulder. I am more in favor of doing some extra work and attaching it to the roof support rail. It takes some extra time and a little bit of extra work, but I like the end result much better. That is how we did it with this exact kit. Doing it our way took us 8 hours to do the install. The other thing I am not fond about with this is is the fact that the 'receiving' end of the belt (the one attached to the transmission hump) is extremely short. This caused us several problems: Our '66 is my daughter's car, and she is short, so she has to have the seat pretty much all the way up, which puts the receiving portion at the back edge of the seat. In our case, we have a console installed in our car which ends up trapping the receiving portion between the seat back and the console so that you cannot unhook the belt.... this caused us a major issue. If it were adjustable, that would be great, but no, it isn't. So we had to make modifications to make it work. Not happy about that!
Most other kits come with a roof support rail attachment bracket that you have to 'fish' in to the rail. it takes some work, but I like the final results much better. This kit does NOT come with the bracket to install in the roof support, so we had to fabricate our own (a large reason why it ended up taking us 8 hours to do the install). I would suggest CJ Pony add these brackets to the package. Charge a couple of extra bucks if you need to, I'm sure people wouldn't mind. I wouldn't have!!!! It would have saved me a LOT of grief! I realize we could have installed it as shown in the video, but IMO I think it could cause spinal compression in a crash. Granted, that might be better than obliterating your face on the dash or steering wheel (providing it doesn't cause long term back problems), but I'd rather attach to the roof support and not have to worry about it.
Finally, find SOMEONE that can put together a decent set of instructions. The instructions provided aren't too good (and that's the only kind way I can say it).
Do you know who sells kits with the roof brackets? ??
+John Doe If you install on the roof rail, you run into problems with the belt coming too close to your neck and rubs on your clavicle . It doesn't seem perfect either way and I guess it just depends on what you prefer.
how about for a 68 cougar?
These are fairly universal so I am sure they will work on other vehicles as well.
Hey Bill, first thank you....I think this will be great for my 65 convertible....other than "its better than a lap belt", is there any concerns with how this sits across your shoulder in a convertible. I think that this is basically the only option.
+sishac Its not ideal how low it is but it will do a better job of protecting you in a crash. The other option is a custom harness bar and 5 points.
+sishac Its not ideal how low it is but it will do a better job of protecting you in a crash. The other option is a custom harness bar and 5 points.
+Bill Tumas is it expensive to put air bags in your 1969 mustang? Like what is the relative cost of that and putting in automatic Windows and the cost of putting these seat belts (if you pay a shop to do it) thank you
Is mine 75 van the only one that dose not have seat belts?
what about for 1968 mustang
works perfectly fine. just did this to my 68' coupe.
Too low anchor point... this installation leads to break your shoulder in the case of an accident! The correct anchor point for this car is on the ceiling!
the head liner in that car needs replacing my thought
angela prestwood that headliner isn’t even at its prime, I’m sure a few more years can be queezed out of it
Who installed that headliner??? It's not a convertible, put it on the roof rail!
Wow, pretty horrible looking headliner
Don’t you own a vacuum?
Nobody wondered why a 5/8" socket is recommended beside those two 16mm sockets?
1/16" = 16mm, 5/8" = 10x 1.6mm =16mm...
BTW use imperial size tools on american classics.
No thanks ... I'll risk death over drilling holes in my '65 Convertible.